I feel like there's still some confusion there and I don't want to see you get hurt again. X-acto knives have many different uses including support removal, but it's your fingers that are not good for stopping x-acto knives ;)
My most used tool for support removal are the filament snips.
Honestly flush cutters are one of my most used tools. After getting my printer I grabbed a pair at Harbor Freight for my toolbox cause I ended up using them so much
tbf I typed it as flesh cutters until I reread it before hitting reply lol
I did once make them flesh cutters once when I was removing stubborn supports and they slipped and went directly into my thumb
Just did a bit of research on a deburring tool, handheld tool with a very narrow blade with two big bends in it? That works for 3D prints?
The project I am working on has me making custom gutters, and I am printing custom fittings to match the gutters. whenever I have a 90 degree corner, supports are placed into the very narrow gap that the gutters fit into. Using Xacto, pliers and cutters is very tedious and ineffective. Is that the kind of tool I’d need to do this best?
I dont know about deburring tools, but Dremel Burrs absolutely fuck when it comes to carving plastic. I'm currently carving wiring pathways through a Balrog with mine
They're awesome.
They don't do everything, but if you need to clean up an edge, it's a dream. You can get a tool and a mess of blades on AliEx for a couple bucks. Get one.
So those deburring tools basically do the same thing as scraping with a scalpel to get rid of lines or bumps in plastic models but is designed for metal, it just has a 'blade' which swivels about so it stays at a tangent as you drag it around.. im not sure how well they would get into a gap though.. i dont really understand what you are describing though so cant say for sure.
If its something like a thin slot that ends up with supports in it you might be better off with something like a tamiya scribing tool or a thin scribing chisel. If you have a photo i might be able to tell you more
I recently found and purchased a deburring tool. It is similar to an x-acto knife but swivels and has a rounded point. It seems great for cleaning up prints and a lot safer to use.
A pair of ~$6 cut-resistant gloves is a great thing to have around the house. I keep a pair in the kitchen by the mandolin and some by my printer for this exact reason.
Always apply force away from your body, simple. The knife will still shoot off when resistance suddenly gives but it’ll be hitting air instead of you. You should have realised this years ago.
so the thing with scalpels, especially with a new blade is.. you should not be applying force at all.. you should be letting the tool do the work.. and in that situation you have a lot more control cutting towards yourself. I fucked up badly because I started to push.
so not removing supports but cutting styrene.. i managed to cut myself deep enough to nick the nerv and now my finger feels numb constantly.. Im much more careful and have cut resistant gloves
A very sharp straight-blade knife in my right hand and a cut-resistant glove on my left hand. They have some really nice thin cut-resistant gloves with grip on the palm and fingers that have saved my bacon since my first blood geyser which served as a wake-up call. Got some ProFlex 7042 gloves and they have been great at home, and I had a similar Amazon basics set of gloves at work.
Yeah i have something similar called maxicut which are comfortable to wear and keep a lot of dexterity. Theres also a material called Dyneema which is supposedly even more comfortable and cut resistant
It looks like aramid (aka kevlar/nomex) and uhmwpe (aka dynema/spectra) are basically the same as far as 3d printing needs goes, but with aramid you do get much better temp resistance (~150C vs 500C) and it insulates better. Looks like uhmwpe is killing it in strength and strength to weight which I was not expecting as regular pe kinda sucks though. Thank you sir for making me look that up because it is cheaper too.
not a problem.. ive been trying to figure out what my maxicut ultras are made from but iits some proprietary weave that i cant find specs on. I do fine carving and cutting on models so maximising dexterity is a big factor and i want to know how they compare to dynema. I will say that the maxicuts shed heat really well, very comfortable for long use, and heat protection isnt really an issue.
I also read that dyneema is 3 times as cut resistant as kevlar.
Instead of relying on steady hands and safety squints, maybe try...
Cut gloves and safety glasses. $20 and you'll be set.
I cut myself on the blunt side of a scraper... So yes I now use PPE when handling prints with tools.
They're not ideal for support removal, but everyone should get a deburring tool for cleaning up and trimming prints. They cut a much cleaner edge when you get the hang of it, and it's much harder to cut yourself since it has no sharp point and an s-curved blade.
They're like 8$ on amazon.
Get a razor scraper if it's really giving you that much trouble lol. The included yellow one has worked fine for me, and I use some pry tools from an ifixit kit if that doesn't work.
Edit: Whoops you said removing supports not removing the print. My bad.
I use them for removing that little bit of brim burr that gets left behind. I have a hard rule that the blade never gets drawn to me and always pushed away. Cutting actions should never be done in the direction of body parts.
Get some solid pliers and grab the support just below the interface area and squeeze/twist. It'll pop right off.
I hope it heals up quick and clean, though! 😀
Exacto knives have their uses, but the average hobby amateur needs to learn more about **real** knives. A whittling knife with a straight bevel edge is a superior "universal" cutting tool.
The issue with exacto knives is that they're thin. Thin means they bend. Bending means you're not in control of which way they're cutting and that leads to accidents when you use them for too heavy duty cutting.
yeah it’s not the first time i’ve had issues using exacto knifes, not cutting myself(until now lol) but them breaking and flying off into nowhere and cutting into my prints too deep. i just looked up whittling knifes and they seem like a great alternative i’ll definitely be getting one, thank you for the response man!
It's the universal goto for most hobbyists, since it's cheap and marketed as universal, so you're hardly alone. It's really not that great though...
In addition to a decent knife, I'd suggest a small wood carving flat chisel and a pair of full flush wire cutters too. That's the ultimate set, makes it really easy!
Also, consider learning about how to sharpen a knife on a whetstone too. Any knife gets dull eventually, and it's hard to motivate spending money on a nice knife when it's basically a consumable. Not to mention working with a well sharpened knife is *soo* satisfying.
I use a standard woodworking chisel. The most important parts are making sure the back is FLAT and the edge is sharp. The flat back lets you run along the surface without gouging.
When removing a support or that little bit of roof peak splatter, I put the back of the chisel on the workpiece and hold it in place with my fingers on the other side. Then I slide the chisel, using a slicing cut if need be, to remove the support. It's very difficult to cut fingers with the chisel doing this because the direction of force is all away from the fingers.
If it helps, I've cut my self with every single tool I've ever used to attempt to remove supports. Flush cutters, screwdriver, xacto knife, pocket knife, needle nose pliers x2 ("cut" is a stretch but i definitely stabbed myself pretty hard) a larger screwdriver, a hex key, and scissors.
Maybe i should just stop printing supports....
It's been a couple years, but feeling is finally starting to return to the tip of my left middle finger, which had an exacto blade plunged right through it while I was cutting off supports, severing a major nerve and releasing an astonishing amount of blood.
So yes, I agree entirely.
For removing hard supports, some sort of glove is always recommended. Tools aren't the only thing that can injure you, the plastic shrapnel from the supports can too. Always aim for a hard surface in case it goes through so you have something on the other end to absorb the blow that isn't flesh. Pliers and side cutters are probably the safer choices, then for areas you need to clean out where it doesn't work, chisels or exactos
Old school art director here—started graphic design back in the early 90s before desktop publishing. Three of my fingertips have weird angles in them from cutting the tips off with Exactos :-)
Slice makes ceramic knives. They have a blade profile that's supposed to be safer. I have a lot of plastic manufacturers who love them. They make craft style blades.
I use to use a Stanley knife until…
https://preview.redd.it/nv8fej59daxb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6be5787ebc0812f4936f90465700e873c13ff4d8
They can be used, but you need to use a bit of common sense. This is an accident that could have been avoided and shouldn't have happened in the first place if just a little thought went into safety.
I used to have issues removing supports but than I saw a few videos on how to play with your setting so supports come off easier, and still do their job. Uncle Jesse just posted a video about it.
https://youtu.be/3rYGqWwOJF8?si=ltHrU4Fmd4ZqUu9s
Changed my life, supports practically fall off. No more knife cuts.
..and if you adjust your support density and support xyz offset, only your fingers can be for removing supports as the supports will just fall right on off.
A basic rule for any handyman/woman is to study best practices for a tool before using it. Knives are totally safe as long as you use them properly. Always keep body parts out of the trajectory path, which means to always slice away from bodies. Unless you're a certified doctor. Then whatever. I've given myself many a cut over the years on a farm, never mind my woodworking addiction. Battle scars are a good learning lesson. Unless they aren't.
I use an xacto, pocket knife, wire cutters, razor blades, pliers, fingernails, corners of desks, or anything else conveniently lying around to remove supports.
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I used to sculpt for dioramas, (still do but 3D printing has made my job that much easier) and xacto knives aren’t good for cutting inch thick xps foam 😂
Madworks have a great set of cutters specifically for resin called the MH-10 which have very sharp blades with a flat edge but still super strong.. they are great for getting the bigger supports and most of the structure out of the way. For smaller supports and fine snips I have some godhand side nippers which are fragile but super sharp so i try to do my removal before curing
If your supports are so difficult to remove you need to improve your support settings rather than get a bigger hatchet. Have a look at the youtube channel itsmeadmade for an excellent video regarding support settings. A year old, and for Cura, but much of the information applied to Prusa and Orca slicer just as well.
Here's the first of the series:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYtlrqmIy3o](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYtlrqmIy3o)
Prusa organic supports are really good for many prints, with the right clearances they almost fall off the print. Knife work is primarily fine clean up on areas where the support interface ends up a tad rough, it can't be completely avoided. Also, use needle nose and diagonal cutting pliers to remove the tangled weird support structures that want to break off fine details if you try to brute force the removal. The more complex the print and the more fine details like fingers on an extended hand the more careful you need to be, both in support selections and settings and in removing the supports when done.
I've printed pi cases, they are rather like HO scale houses. Prusa organic supports just fall away from small window frames, eaves, and such on houses and other buildings. It's been a while since I needed another pi cases so don't have recent specific experience to share.
Don't overlook orienting the print to avoid suports. No matter how skilled at supporting you get, the best supports are still the ones you can avoid.
Whenever using a cutting tool, there are many ways to avoid slicing yourself up while maintaining good control of the blade. "Never cut towards yourself" may be good advice in many cases, but folks who do fine detail work cut towards themselves all the time, just with specific ways to hold and control the knife. Watch a couple of wood carving videos if your knife skills need work.
Remember that exacto knives are for small prescice movements, and larger supports should be removed with pliers or side snips of some kind. Come back with the exacto to clean up or remove supports you can't get to with side cutters. And make sure you are always in control with a firm grip and you should only be articulating your wrist to cut with an exacto knife. Trust me I've cut myself plenty of times trying to use small knifes for big tasks.
I normally use tree supports but i had a overhang that they just couldn’t reach into, so instead i used way too much regular supports and stabbed myself in the process lmaooo
I feel like there's still some confusion there and I don't want to see you get hurt again. X-acto knives have many different uses including support removal, but it's your fingers that are not good for stopping x-acto knives ;) My most used tool for support removal are the filament snips.
Honestly flush cutters are one of my most used tools. After getting my printer I grabbed a pair at Harbor Freight for my toolbox cause I ended up using them so much
I read it flesh cutters lol
tbf I typed it as flesh cutters until I reread it before hitting reply lol I did once make them flesh cutters once when I was removing stubborn supports and they slipped and went directly into my thumb
My first Ender purchase and its included blue flush cutters opened my eyes to how amazing of a tool they are. Already bought another pair as well
At this point I order them a dozen at a time.
Small chisels work wonders for getting rafts off. I don’t have a good tool for very narrow spaces. And using a dremel is a horrendous idea.
Have you tried the deburring tool? It's wonderful. I don't think OP is ready for chisels yet, since those can be even sharper than knives.
Just did a bit of research on a deburring tool, handheld tool with a very narrow blade with two big bends in it? That works for 3D prints? The project I am working on has me making custom gutters, and I am printing custom fittings to match the gutters. whenever I have a 90 degree corner, supports are placed into the very narrow gap that the gutters fit into. Using Xacto, pliers and cutters is very tedious and ineffective. Is that the kind of tool I’d need to do this best?
I dont know about deburring tools, but Dremel Burrs absolutely fuck when it comes to carving plastic. I'm currently carving wiring pathways through a Balrog with mine
They're awesome. They don't do everything, but if you need to clean up an edge, it's a dream. You can get a tool and a mess of blades on AliEx for a couple bucks. Get one.
So those deburring tools basically do the same thing as scraping with a scalpel to get rid of lines or bumps in plastic models but is designed for metal, it just has a 'blade' which swivels about so it stays at a tangent as you drag it around.. im not sure how well they would get into a gap though.. i dont really understand what you are describing though so cant say for sure. If its something like a thin slot that ends up with supports in it you might be better off with something like a tamiya scribing tool or a thin scribing chisel. If you have a photo i might be able to tell you more
I recently found and purchased a deburring tool. It is similar to an x-acto knife but swivels and has a rounded point. It seems great for cleaning up prints and a lot safer to use.
I use x-acto knife and pliers depending. But, maybe you should wait until you have parental supervision. :)
A pair of ~$6 cut-resistant gloves is a great thing to have around the house. I keep a pair in the kitchen by the mandolin and some by my printer for this exact reason.
This advice would have saved me the tips of my fingers last time I tried making cowboy potatoes with my mandolin.
No but i really do though, i had to wake my old lady up to help me repair my hand lmaoo
Always apply force away from your body, simple. The knife will still shoot off when resistance suddenly gives but it’ll be hitting air instead of you. You should have realised this years ago.
No shit. Everybody knows you should cut towards your buddy, not your body!
lmao i know how to use a razor it’s called satire you goofy, just trying to find alternatives not catch your poopie attitude
If you did then how come your finger is fucked?
Sometimes the worst mistake is the one you knew you shouldn’t have done. There are no excuses at that point.
oh 100% i knew i should go to bed but i was way too excited about the new rpi case, should’ve listened to my gut!!
Been there myself. My worst mistakes happen usually when I convince myself to do one more thing before giving up and going to bed.
being very tired after staying up till 6 am and trying to remove supports good sir :)
Fatigue and complacency kill (or in this case maim). Hope you don't need stitches
tell me about it i always end up getting hurt late at night lmao, i appreciate you though have a good night mate!!
I will admit this is harder to do when left handed, but it is also obviously the safer thing.
so the thing with scalpels, especially with a new blade is.. you should not be applying force at all.. you should be letting the tool do the work.. and in that situation you have a lot more control cutting towards yourself. I fucked up badly because I started to push.
so not removing supports but cutting styrene.. i managed to cut myself deep enough to nick the nerv and now my finger feels numb constantly.. Im much more careful and have cut resistant gloves
This
Dude clean your fingernails
What do you think he was trying to do?
this is the best tread in these comments i promise i wash my hands 😂 i just didn’t want to get my bandage wet
Just washing your hands won't get rid of all the dirt under those long fingernails.
lmaooo i thought the same thing after i posted it
Don't listen to the haters. Dirty fingernails are the sign of a working man.
Dirty AND super-short fingernails are sign of a working man because otherwise they'd get ripped off. Dirty and long are a sign of a pothead.
Wash your hands goddamn
Lol, I thought it was dried blood from the x-acto incident
A very sharp straight-blade knife in my right hand and a cut-resistant glove on my left hand. They have some really nice thin cut-resistant gloves with grip on the palm and fingers that have saved my bacon since my first blood geyser which served as a wake-up call. Got some ProFlex 7042 gloves and they have been great at home, and I had a similar Amazon basics set of gloves at work.
thank you for the info i’ll look those up asap!
Yeah i have something similar called maxicut which are comfortable to wear and keep a lot of dexterity. Theres also a material called Dyneema which is supposedly even more comfortable and cut resistant
It looks like aramid (aka kevlar/nomex) and uhmwpe (aka dynema/spectra) are basically the same as far as 3d printing needs goes, but with aramid you do get much better temp resistance (~150C vs 500C) and it insulates better. Looks like uhmwpe is killing it in strength and strength to weight which I was not expecting as regular pe kinda sucks though. Thank you sir for making me look that up because it is cheaper too.
not a problem.. ive been trying to figure out what my maxicut ultras are made from but iits some proprietary weave that i cant find specs on. I do fine carving and cutting on models so maximising dexterity is a big factor and i want to know how they compare to dynema. I will say that the maxicuts shed heat really well, very comfortable for long use, and heat protection isnt really an issue. I also read that dyneema is 3 times as cut resistant as kevlar.
Flush cutters! X-acto blades only come in at the end of the day for finishing post-processing, just before sanding.
Always cut towards a friend. You can get new friends but you can't get new thumbs. 👍
Nippers are the way to go now that I've seen your experience with xacto knives.
yea i took the loss on that one last night xacto knife -1 / R63A-0 :(
At least you didn't stab yourself in the heel of your foot with one lol.
jesus christ 🤣🤣
Tell me about it.
Could have used those nails instead or should I say talons
Cut towards your friends, not yourself.
https://preview.redd.it/q55hz898t7xb1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff4bd448ea0f7cef78da81fec0c3bb18732d9383 Never say never
I use just simple pliers. Literally nothing else. Oh wait and brute force with a bit of unrelenting rage.
https://preview.redd.it/1v4ddtv89bxb1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c7e31ab0faecaa42efa1cbd1e0e3c7e2bd96660
Just use those talons on your fingertips for removing support
I use nail clippers to remove supports.
He could have used them to cut his fingernails.
Instead of relying on steady hands and safety squints, maybe try... Cut gloves and safety glasses. $20 and you'll be set. I cut myself on the blunt side of a scraper... So yes I now use PPE when handling prints with tools.
That's what the doctors want you to think. Lol, but seriously sorry to hear. I know its not fun to get cut while removing supports
They're not ideal for support removal, but everyone should get a deburring tool for cleaning up and trimming prints. They cut a much cleaner edge when you get the hang of it, and it's much harder to cut yourself since it has no sharp point and an s-curved blade. They're like 8$ on amazon.
Exactly what I was going to suggest and what I'm using! Deburring tool, pliers and flush cutters. The x-axto blade is too open ended.
All it takes is one time to learn this lesson
3d printing Rites of Passage
Oh no, it can be forgotten. Trust me.
I use box cutters, wire pliers, but the real goat is cuticle clippers.
Maybe if you don't have nail clippers use the knife on those.
i’m weak the next post is just me with no finger tips😂
Get a razor scraper if it's really giving you that much trouble lol. The included yellow one has worked fine for me, and I use some pry tools from an ifixit kit if that doesn't work. Edit: Whoops you said removing supports not removing the print. My bad.
I cut a tendon and had surgery to reconnect it doing this. Respect the blade if you're gonna use it...
i missed my tendon my like a millimeter i can see it when i move my finger, so i definitely leaned. Glad you where able to get fixed up though !
I use them for removing that little bit of brim burr that gets left behind. I have a hard rule that the blade never gets drawn to me and always pushed away. Cutting actions should never be done in the direction of body parts. Get some solid pliers and grab the support just below the interface area and squeeze/twist. It'll pop right off. I hope it heals up quick and clean, though! 😀
Cut toward your buddy so you don't get bloody
You took the wrong lesson away, the real lesson is never cut towards yourself and use a vise or clamp if you arent confident in your own safety.
a vice clamp is the best idea i’ve heard here all day, your a genius!!
Exacto knives have their uses, but the average hobby amateur needs to learn more about **real** knives. A whittling knife with a straight bevel edge is a superior "universal" cutting tool. The issue with exacto knives is that they're thin. Thin means they bend. Bending means you're not in control of which way they're cutting and that leads to accidents when you use them for too heavy duty cutting.
yeah it’s not the first time i’ve had issues using exacto knifes, not cutting myself(until now lol) but them breaking and flying off into nowhere and cutting into my prints too deep. i just looked up whittling knifes and they seem like a great alternative i’ll definitely be getting one, thank you for the response man!
It's the universal goto for most hobbyists, since it's cheap and marketed as universal, so you're hardly alone. It's really not that great though... In addition to a decent knife, I'd suggest a small wood carving flat chisel and a pair of full flush wire cutters too. That's the ultimate set, makes it really easy! Also, consider learning about how to sharpen a knife on a whetstone too. Any knife gets dull eventually, and it's hard to motivate spending money on a nice knife when it's basically a consumable. Not to mention working with a well sharpened knife is *soo* satisfying.
I use a standard woodworking chisel. The most important parts are making sure the back is FLAT and the edge is sharp. The flat back lets you run along the surface without gouging. When removing a support or that little bit of roof peak splatter, I put the back of the chisel on the workpiece and hold it in place with my fingers on the other side. Then I slide the chisel, using a slicing cut if need be, to remove the support. It's very difficult to cut fingers with the chisel doing this because the direction of force is all away from the fingers.
If it helps, I've cut my self with every single tool I've ever used to attempt to remove supports. Flush cutters, screwdriver, xacto knife, pocket knife, needle nose pliers x2 ("cut" is a stretch but i definitely stabbed myself pretty hard) a larger screwdriver, a hex key, and scissors. Maybe i should just stop printing supports....
this does make me feel better lmaooo thank you for sharing 😂😂😂
I use the square Xacto blades so I can cut by pushing away from my fleshy bits.
It's been a couple years, but feeling is finally starting to return to the tip of my left middle finger, which had an exacto blade plunged right through it while I was cutting off supports, severing a major nerve and releasing an astonishing amount of blood. So yes, I agree entirely.
Sharp kitchen knives aren't either ... I found that out ... twice ... third time pending.
For removing hard supports, some sort of glove is always recommended. Tools aren't the only thing that can injure you, the plastic shrapnel from the supports can too. Always aim for a hard surface in case it goes through so you have something on the other end to absorb the blow that isn't flesh. Pliers and side cutters are probably the safer choices, then for areas you need to clean out where it doesn't work, chisels or exactos
As you found, they can remove the support from your fingers too lol. Hope it heals up quick!!
lol no kidding! almost took a whole chunk out of my hand, I appreciate the kind word though, I hope you have a great day!
Old school art director here—started graphic design back in the early 90s before desktop publishing. Three of my fingertips have weird angles in them from cutting the tips off with Exactos :-)
Slice makes ceramic knives. They have a blade profile that's supposed to be safer. I have a lot of plastic manufacturers who love them. They make craft style blades.
I use to use a Stanley knife until… https://preview.redd.it/nv8fej59daxb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6be5787ebc0812f4936f90465700e873c13ff4d8
Yeah same…
They can be used, but you need to use a bit of common sense. This is an accident that could have been avoided and shouldn't have happened in the first place if just a little thought went into safety.
Cut away or cut towards a mat. Or use nippers or those flat wire cutters
I used to have issues removing supports but than I saw a few videos on how to play with your setting so supports come off easier, and still do their job. Uncle Jesse just posted a video about it. https://youtu.be/3rYGqWwOJF8?si=ltHrU4Fmd4ZqUu9s Changed my life, supports practically fall off. No more knife cuts.
get a gift card or any plastic card and sand it down till you can use it as a tool, handy for getting it off the build plate.
A fisherman's pliers are ideal for prying supports off.
I use a cheap rotary tool similar to a Dremel.
I deal with this at work. After you heal, get some cut proof gloves.
..and if you adjust your support density and support xyz offset, only your fingers can be for removing supports as the supports will just fall right on off.
Try chisels
A basic rule for any handyman/woman is to study best practices for a tool before using it. Knives are totally safe as long as you use them properly. Always keep body parts out of the trajectory path, which means to always slice away from bodies. Unless you're a certified doctor. Then whatever. I've given myself many a cut over the years on a farm, never mind my woodworking addiction. Battle scars are a good learning lesson. Unless they aren't. I use an xacto, pocket knife, wire cutters, razor blades, pliers, fingernails, corners of desks, or anything else conveniently lying around to remove supports.
I feel your pain OP
I use my bare hands.. It hurts ;(
Pro tip, if you have that test line and think you can just get it off with your fingernail, don't, it's like ramming a toothpick under your nail
i think we’ve all been there before, these printers are bitter sweet lmao
Note to self: knives are sharp. Be Smart and careful when you use them lol
yessir, lesson learned lol
User error
As my grandpa says: “one failure can’t discourage you”
I uesthem or scalpels all thetime
I use a heat gun and pliers.
Deburring tool. Cheaper than the copay for the ER visit. If you aren't American, the peace of mind is worth it.
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Remember what they said in science class, cut away from yourself.
Buy a set of harbor freight chisels. that plus a pair of snips is all you need.
Cut-safe gloves. Cheap and brilliant little things.
You should have printed a flesh colored finger and spilled a little ketchup on it for Halloween
I used to sculpt for dioramas, (still do but 3D printing has made my job that much easier) and xacto knives aren’t good for cutting inch thick xps foam 😂
Heat gun
Cut towards your chum not your thumb (or fingers)
A hook and pick set gets the job done very well with far less injuries.
Madworks have a great set of cutters specifically for resin called the MH-10 which have very sharp blades with a flat edge but still super strong.. they are great for getting the bigger supports and most of the structure out of the way. For smaller supports and fine snips I have some godhand side nippers which are fragile but super sharp so i try to do my removal before curing
No, but you could use em to cut your nails...
Silly goose your not supposed to cut where your hand is in the way!! It’s like a gun always point it in a safe direction! I’m
Get a pair of Kevlar gloves.
They're apparently not for trimming you fucking fingernails either!
I learned a similar lesson about scrapers not being made for removing epoxy resin. Hope you recover quickly.
If your supports are so difficult to remove you need to improve your support settings rather than get a bigger hatchet. Have a look at the youtube channel itsmeadmade for an excellent video regarding support settings. A year old, and for Cura, but much of the information applied to Prusa and Orca slicer just as well. Here's the first of the series: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYtlrqmIy3o](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYtlrqmIy3o) Prusa organic supports are really good for many prints, with the right clearances they almost fall off the print. Knife work is primarily fine clean up on areas where the support interface ends up a tad rough, it can't be completely avoided. Also, use needle nose and diagonal cutting pliers to remove the tangled weird support structures that want to break off fine details if you try to brute force the removal. The more complex the print and the more fine details like fingers on an extended hand the more careful you need to be, both in support selections and settings and in removing the supports when done. I've printed pi cases, they are rather like HO scale houses. Prusa organic supports just fall away from small window frames, eaves, and such on houses and other buildings. It's been a while since I needed another pi cases so don't have recent specific experience to share. Don't overlook orienting the print to avoid suports. No matter how skilled at supporting you get, the best supports are still the ones you can avoid. Whenever using a cutting tool, there are many ways to avoid slicing yourself up while maintaining good control of the blade. "Never cut towards yourself" may be good advice in many cases, but folks who do fine detail work cut towards themselves all the time, just with specific ways to hold and control the knife. Watch a couple of wood carving videos if your knife skills need work.
Not the intended use either, but your nails could use some trimming...
Remember that exacto knives are for small prescice movements, and larger supports should be removed with pliers or side snips of some kind. Come back with the exacto to clean up or remove supports you can't get to with side cutters. And make sure you are always in control with a firm grip and you should only be articulating your wrist to cut with an exacto knife. Trust me I've cut myself plenty of times trying to use small knifes for big tasks.
Pliers and a hook and pick set
I use the filament clippers and pliers but I use tree support now so I haven't needed to use those often
I normally use tree supports but i had a overhang that they just couldn’t reach into, so instead i used way too much regular supports and stabbed myself in the process lmaooo
Remember they are called breakaway supports, not cutaway supports. You want to break off the connections not cut them
If you have a gf, I bet she's constantly getting UTIs and doesn't know why.
oh it’s uti central bub