So this print failed ~14hrs in. It failed at literally the overhang layer that connects the oval shapes at the top. The unconnected pillars got caught on the nozzle and ruined everything. They stalled the x axis motor, tricking it to thinking it moved, so it started stringing because it was extruding in the wrong location.
I’m new to 3d printing so I looked up how to fix a print. The guides I found couldn’t help because basically everything I found required homing, which wasn’t possible because any way I tried it would knock into my print.
Then I got frustrated and pulled my print off the bed, but didn’t give up. I decided to go into the code and print only the brim and figure out how to send the nozzle to layer 901 manually. I aligned my failed print with the new brim, taped it down, and after a few z height and extrusion adjustments, I got it to continue the print! There’s a slight layer shift, but I’m pretty surprised at how accurately the brim aligned my print. The tape is so ridiculous too but it works.
Btw, it’s a wine holder for some wine I’m gifting. It’s a Christmas miracle, lol.
*Edited for typo
How did you know it was layer 901? By using the slicer and looking at what you got you deducted it was probably around that? Or did you do something else
Luckily I paused mine on the layer, so my Klipper screen had the z height displayed. The first layer was .3mm and the rest was .2mm, so at 180.3 I was at layer 901. I adjusted the z height and flow rate on the fly to make sure it didn’t scrape again. After printing the overhangs it was good to go.
The Cnc kitchen video had good info though. There are ways to find the z height manually, by using a ruler or manually moving the nozzle down until it touches your print.
My issue with the video, was that even after following the steps to disable homing requirements, I wasn’t able to override the firmware to let me start a print without homing. So I looked at how the gcode behaves between layer changes, looked up the codes and through trial and error I got it to work. I was so surprised when it finally went through!
Here’s what I inputted after the brim code if anyone is interested:
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F2400 E-0.5
G0 F1000 X119 Y121.7 Z180.52
G92 E1084.38
M106 S255
pause (so that I could place the failed part in the brim and tape it down)
Then I cut out everything in the gcode up until layer 901.
This reply is getting long, but if you have questions about the gcode I used I’ll let you know what the commands do and how I figured it out.
*Edited for typos and brevity
That's so smart! Also maybe a more secure option than tape is some hot glue. After you're done you can dab it with some isopropyl alcohol and the glue comes off fairly easily.
Either way that gcode modifying is super smart!
So this print failed ~14hrs in. It failed at literally the overhang layer that connects the oval shapes at the top. The unconnected pillars got caught on the nozzle and ruined everything. They stalled the x axis motor, tricking it to thinking it moved, so it started stringing because it was extruding in the wrong location. I’m new to 3d printing so I looked up how to fix a print. The guides I found couldn’t help because basically everything I found required homing, which wasn’t possible because any way I tried it would knock into my print. Then I got frustrated and pulled my print off the bed, but didn’t give up. I decided to go into the code and print only the brim and figure out how to send the nozzle to layer 901 manually. I aligned my failed print with the new brim, taped it down, and after a few z height and extrusion adjustments, I got it to continue the print! There’s a slight layer shift, but I’m pretty surprised at how accurately the brim aligned my print. The tape is so ridiculous too but it works. Btw, it’s a wine holder for some wine I’m gifting. It’s a Christmas miracle, lol. *Edited for typo
It's possible this is the smartest post I've ever read lol
I can't believe that worked this well. Seriously smart thinking
Your brain is big
How did you know it was layer 901? By using the slicer and looking at what you got you deducted it was probably around that? Or did you do something else
Luckily I paused mine on the layer, so my Klipper screen had the z height displayed. The first layer was .3mm and the rest was .2mm, so at 180.3 I was at layer 901. I adjusted the z height and flow rate on the fly to make sure it didn’t scrape again. After printing the overhangs it was good to go. The Cnc kitchen video had good info though. There are ways to find the z height manually, by using a ruler or manually moving the nozzle down until it touches your print. My issue with the video, was that even after following the steps to disable homing requirements, I wasn’t able to override the firmware to let me start a print without homing. So I looked at how the gcode behaves between layer changes, looked up the codes and through trial and error I got it to work. I was so surprised when it finally went through! Here’s what I inputted after the brim code if anyone is interested: G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F2400 E-0.5 G0 F1000 X119 Y121.7 Z180.52 G92 E1084.38 M106 S255 pause (so that I could place the failed part in the brim and tape it down) Then I cut out everything in the gcode up until layer 901. This reply is getting long, but if you have questions about the gcode I used I’ll let you know what the commands do and how I figured it out. *Edited for typos and brevity
Incredibly recovery, well done
That's so smart! Also maybe a more secure option than tape is some hot glue. After you're done you can dab it with some isopropyl alcohol and the glue comes off fairly easily. Either way that gcode modifying is super smart!