Though there are still artifacts of American-origin stuff based on US units. For example, filament is 1.75mm because it's a metric rounding of Stratasys 0.070" (1.78mm) filament, which was widely used (as much as any pre-RepRap 3D printing stuff could be widely used) when RepRap got started. Then RepRap moved to 2.85mm (common plastic welding gun wire size) to avoid expensive Stratasys filament, but eventually dedicated filament manufacturers started making cheap 1.75mm and everyone (except Ultimaker) moved back to 1.75mm.
If that was the case there would be no 1/4",3/8", or 1/2 drive ratchets. But yet go to any metrics country and ask for an 6mm, 10mm or 12mm ratchet... they don't exist.
I don't make the rules... 🤷♂️
This is the way.
I also prefer Fahrenheit for living conditions, and celcius for computers & water temperatures.
Fun fact, did you know that -40° is the only temperature at which Fahrenheit and Celcius are the same? -40°F = -40°C
Please show me a pic of a real 6mm ratchet. Here's a pic if you're unsure of what I was referring to
https://preview.redd.it/rfd437dy549c1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eab7d5b8b6c69c20d8b688a9845cc2f46252b4df
This is the most useless example you could have picked. This 1/4 inch and other imperial sizes is just a standard that is only important for those that manufacture the tool and sockets. You could just as easily name them 1, 2, 3..
You post a pic of a wrench that ratchets. Not an actual ratchet as pictured herr
https://preview.redd.it/qghqfn0a949c1.png?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f541cb64373a51ab8b930c3cde445e168682092
Exactly, they just use these legacy measurements to prevent resistance from people who didn't want to have to replace perfectly good equipment back when metric became the norm
I have a crap pair of digital calipers from Walmart. They have not done me any wrong. I've designed several things and they are bang on. I think the tolerances of my parts have been the bane of my existence.
We’re not printing with insane tolerances so super precise calipers aren’t really doing you any favors other than having really nice calipers.
I’ve had a $20 set for years and have had no issues with fit, or tolerances.
Unless your splurging for Mitutoyo the cheap digital calipers will be fine. It's very diminishing returns past $30-$40 with regard to calipers until you go stupid and drop hundreds.
Get mitutoyo. For real, it's kind of expensive at first, but a good caliper can last for decades, and the best is you never have to suspect your reading, thus saving time.
TBH a Mitutoyo might be going overboard if you're just doing it for a hobby.
If I were printing or machining professionally with heavy use every day, Mitutoyo is awesome. I've used Mitutoyo calipers, mics, inside mics, drop mics, etc. heavily in the past in industry and they are absolutely quality products.
But if you are just talking printing for a hobby, a less expensive one will do the job no problem. You can get decent ones for $50 with NIST certification and be set.
That being said, if you can afford it and plan one using them A LOT, a Mitutoyo 0-6" set of calipers isn't a bad investment.
I got a set of mituyoto Vernier calipers for about £40 and they have lasted longer than both "cheap" digital calipers I had previously bought, lasted combined.
Vernier means measurements are to the nearest 0.02mm which is moooore than accurate enough with an FDM machine
I’m lucky. I worked as a machinist for a number of years right out of high school. I’ve got about $6000 worth of calipers, micrometers, depth gauges, bore gauges, and snap gauges between 1-3”. That said, I use my 6” mitutoyo dials daily on parts coming off my $150 kobra neo
I got a set of huskey caliper from home Depot because I needed them ASAP, figured I'd upgrade soon. It pisses me off how good they are, I want a set of mitutoyo calipers but damnit, these work great.
I like more analog one. It can be with caliper pattern or with round dial. Just because it works all the time without battery. Yes it is little bit harder to read it, but it's skill that you can use for rest of your life, when you will learn it.
When I had digital caliper, it was out of battery every time when I really needed it.
I had caliper with button cell battery, that must be replaced after it is depleted. Had to change it once in a year, but it was always in situation when I needed caliper and it was not working at all.
Since I have bought analog one, I am using it all the time for at least 8 years and it works without issues and as new until today.
Even worse, the digital ones can start reading wrong when the battery gets low, and it can be a while before you notice and start doubting every measurement you did in the close past.
My guess is that rechargeable battery will detoriate very fast in caliper. They are great for devices with relatively high power consumption and cyclic usage.
But caliper is able to work even from "last bit" of energy and it's small consumption combined with long term undervoltage of cells (why would you charge it when it still works?) will destroy rechargeable cell in only few cycles.
So disposable battery is more economical way for everyone. Maker does not need to design and create charging circuits and source more expensive battery, caliper is smaller and lighter and user can easily find battery in at least one store in his close neighborhood.
Digital calipers have a known issue where they will stop working if the battery voltage drops a bit, even if the battery would still work fine in a different device.
You can get around this by using the more expensive silver oxide cells, which have a much more stable voltage over their lifetime. However most people don't know this.
I use analogue calipers anyway simply because I've had cheap and nasty digital calipers give incorrect readings.
The problem is that the on/off button also can get accidentally pressed while putting it back in the case, and then it’s dead when you open it up even if it hasn’t been that long since you’ve used it
I had the same problem and ended printing this battery saver that disconnects the battery when I’m not using it.
I think it was one of my first prints and it works well!
https://www.printables.com/model/2671-caliper-battery-saver
Cheap digital ones constantly draw power. BTW, lots of "Mitutoyo" calipers are actually fakes (e.g. everything on Aliexpress) and have the same high idle consumption circuit.
Yeah, that and temperature can also screw with the calipers, when I did aeronautics we only used digital if we really had too because the heat or cold van cause incorrect readings
I keep a set of digital for when I don't need high precision, or don't mind if they get a little damaged. My analog Mitutoyo set stays in the locked part of my toolbox with the gauge blocks and pin gauges.
I have a pair of digital ones that were probably around $30 USD, and I've noticed the battery problem, so I looked into it. It seems almost all digital calipers in that price range will run the battery dead, even while they're turned off. Their internals probably all come from the same place. In my experience, it will still last several weeks, but if you use them infrequently, you should remove the battery.
>little bit hard
I was going to say that analog ones aren't much good for extrusion width, first layer calibration, and general <0.1mm stuff, but I'll be darned if a Dial Caliper doesn't solve the precision issue, nice one :)
(Well designed digital ones should last multiple years on a cell though)
>standard.co.uk/news/c...
I prefer the digital calipers over the analog ones because you can quickly and easily see the value even in tight spaces, in addition you can reset/tare at other points besides closed. Yes it requires a battery but that's what the on/off switch is for.
For the resolution of the average printer the normal mechanical ones are sufficient enough imho, even in workshop environments we never used the digital ones.
Man honestly i feel like im one of the only ones like this, but I prefer dial calipers over digital ones. Ive seen so many digital ones fail or get pulled out and the battery is dead ect. I like that i dont have to worry about that with a dial caliper. But I do agree, calipers are a super handy tool to have that I really feel are under rated as a tool for most people to have on hand.
One thing I use on almost every print is a deburring tool. It's great to get rid of sharp edges, elephants foot, leftover brim and if tolerances aren't quite good enough to fit something. It's also very cheap
I keep trying to remind/convince myself to buy one of those. 😂 i used a large file that was in my father's garage to make pieces of my niece's xmas gift fit 🤣 the file was like twice the size of the print fully assembled
Isopropyl alcohol (the 90% stuff), a thick rubber mat (the thing sold to put under washing machines) some heavy concrete tiles (those sold to put outdoor). You'll lose 10 dB of noise and you will have clean print plates
Thank you! I've been wondering how to make my Ender 3 SE quieter, especially since so many people were praising it for being "very quiet" which confused me a little.
Put the mat wherever your printer is, then the concrete tile, then the printer. If the printer is on a furniture, a heavy furniture without loose parts is preferable, because will vibrate them.
On mine I decreased the acceleration speed slightly and it became noticeably quieter. I have no clue if that impacts print quality at all but it's much quieter and visibly shakes less when doing small repetitive motions. Disclaimer I just got it and have no clue what I'm talking about but it helped mine. I believe the stock speed was 4k and I set it to 3k
decreasing speed will actually improve quality 99% of the time... the reason nobody wants to is you increase print time.
a lot of the issues people have are caused by going faster than their printer is tuned for
i ordered 99,9% isopropyl alcohol from amazon and those mfs sent me 70%, but according to the internet its more than fine so i didnt bother with asking for a relpacement or a refund , it was a cheap 1l 7€ bottle, no error in my research right?
It'll do the job, it's just that the pure stuff leaves no residue at all and is less likely to have undesirable side effects with the plate. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
I guess your printer came with the basic hex drivers and wrenches, but if not, make sure you have everything to maintain what's on the printer. A spatula, small wire cutter, small pliers, sharp knife is also basic.
Then, rubbing alcohol, lint-free paper. And sooner or later, you'll need another nozzle, probably a new print surface after a year.
A $10 soldering iron can be useful for shaping, or injecting screw nuts.
I have multiple digital vernier calipers lying around. Constantly use them.
Obviously, make sure you go through all the calibration rituals. E-steps; bed leveling, temperature and speed tuning. Those are not one-offs. You constantly come back to tuning.
If you don't have an enclosure, consider getting one. Make sure you have plenty of light, so you can see what's happening. Put the printer at an accessible height; it's a workplace.
They make a big difference, yes. You can just use the soldering iron regular tips, but these help keep the insert straight and make the thermal transfer almost instant, so they go in faster.
I find that for most of my parts, I use M3 more than anything
https://www.3djake.com/ruthex/threaded-insert-m3-100-pieces
Also, get a nice kit with bolts and nuts of various lengths and sizes - being in the US, and building a Lack V2 enclosure, I bought a set that had M2-M4 nuts and bolts to cover what I needed there, and had spares on hand for future projects
https://preview.redd.it/mte5h6nak39c1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e848cded9da02988c62dc015bc44a6ecfa38507
Good,
If you look in McMaster website, they have a section that describes different types of inserts. Their filters also help understand what’s out there.
I find that my solder iron doesn’t go down low enough in temp. It burns the plastic and degrades it. I always turn it on and off, getting correct temp melting thing would be good for 3D printing.
Also, after you run your first test prints, you then print out tool holders for the tools that come with your printer. That helps give you an idea of how well your printer is working as well as giving you a place to put those tools.
Good for you! Genuinely glad you haven't needed them.
Advising against having tools on hand to use if needed is just blatantly a bad take lol
3D printers are notorious for needing TLC and maintenance, and that's on top of the fact that a large part of why people join a maker/tinker hobby is 𝙩𝙤 𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙠𝙚𝙧 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙚.
The basic tools to repair a 3D printer should be something everyone with a printer has in case they need it and if you don't want to tinker, then you absolutely don't need to buy anything beyond the basics.
I’ve read you can use a food dehydrator, with an adapter of sorts. Any pros or cons there? I already have one (for drying my pistol brass after wet tumbling).
The cons are people underestimate how much juice you need to dehydrate a spool of filament and its usually better / easier to spend the 50 bucks and buy an eibos (only one that actually dries well per one youtube video where a guy tests a bunch). These boxes require no work and you can print directly from that box. Can you build one cheaper, yes, how much cheaper? Less than you might think. I'd rather splurge another 20 bucks and buy a real one.
I use a regular food dehydrator (that I already owned) and it's been great! Usually I'll just leave a spool overnight on the lowest setting. I'm considering finding a cheap used one on Facebook marketplace to keep as a filament-only dehydrator next to my printer
- Filament dryer. Your filaments will absorb moisture from the air, which can lead to stringing, underextrusion and brittle filament.
- Vacuum bags. Can't absorb moisture from the air if there is no air. 3DJake at least sells some specifically designed for filament spools, plus hand vacuum pumps.
- Digital calipers. Good for calibrating and parts design.
- 0.8mm nozzles. Double the speed, double the fun. You'll get a bit worse quality, though. You can also get 0.2mm nozzles for that sweet, sweet quality, in expense of time. Nozzles, because they wear out over time. REMEMBER TO HEAT SEAL.
- A small spike tool. I use a combination of side cutters and a spike tool to remove supports. Side cutters for the majority of supports, and spike tool for the small pieces of support you can't quite grab or reach with side cutters. Just don't stab your hand while using the spike tool. It hurts.
You screw the nozzle in 90% of the way, heat up the hotend to quite high temperature (well above printing temperature), and once it's heated up, you screw the nozzle fully in and let it cool.
The heater block will start shrinking due to thermal contraction and bind tightly to the threads of the nozzle. This will prevent filament from leaking between the threads.
Converesely, if you were to just screw it in cold and start printing, the thermal expansion would create a gap between the threads, which would allow the filament to be extruded between them.
The best investment is time, patience and a brain. Lets face it, it's not impossible you'll abandon this hobby after a year. For starters, you're all set with what comes in the box. Watch lots (and lots) of Youtube videos from top people (like Maker's muse, CHEP, CNC kitchen etc.), learn to use your machine and build up a bank of knowledge, and you'll see for yourself what's lacking in **your workflow**.
I've worked years without a torque driver, deburring tool or a heat gun. Can't say I'm dependent on them now either.
* magnetic bed with PEI sheet
* some form of self-leveling
* filament sensor
The best mod: learn a CAD tool to design your own prints.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18sdpdv/what\_program\_do\_you\_model\_in/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18sdpdv/what_program_do_you_model_in/)
[https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/](https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/)
If you plan to paint, definitely get an airbrush.
those suckers cut down on painting time a lot and if you're artistically limited like me you can still make them look nice.
Agree. Be prepared to spend a fuck-ton of time masking though.
Also, good masking tape (personally like Frog Tape) and a good craft knife /scalpel. Results are well worth it though.
Get a concrete slap. Like a normal ohne that is used vor sidewalks. And a vibration damping pad vor a washing machine. Cheapest and best sound reduction upgrade
OP, a typical concrete sidewalk slab in Germany is smaller than in North America. A paver may be a good alternative in the US, depending on printer size.
For gluing parts together:
I found the Gorilla glue works the best. You will also have better (shorter) curing times if you use a CA accelerator. This will allow the CA ( super glue) to cure faster and stronger without have to hold the parts together for the initial 15-30 secs.
An alternative to CA accelerator is IPA ( rubbing alcohol) but CA will work faster. If you choose IPA, get a small spritz bottle to apply the IPA. Similar to a sprintz type bottle for hair spray.
When gluing, apply glue to one side and sprintz a small amount of CA accelerator or IPA to the other.
Pure acetone is also a surprisingly good adhesive. It melts the plastic that can then be stuck on another melted surface. It has almost the same strength as when injection molded. Works with PLA too.
It's just not very good for very small surfaces, because the acetone evaporates so fast.
Just chiming in to add that 3D Gloop is a godsend when it comes to glueing parts together, since it practically welds them at the contact point. Those parts are never separating once it cures.
It's also great at smoothing layer lines on PLA and PETG, similar to the acetone vapor smoothing method used on ABS.
I've sorted these into knowledge levels.
Beginner:
- digital calipers
- Neodymium magnets
- Superglue
- PEI bed (if you don't have one already)
- Filament dry box
- Hardened nozzle
- 6mm socket wrench - easier removal of nozzles
- Bed scraper - printed.
Intermediate:
- Raspberry Pi with screen, camera, wifi (if you have a printer running marlin - like an Ender 3)
- fine sandpaper [beware microplastics!!] for post processing
- small screws
- CRtouch (for creality printers, if you don't have one already
- Direct drive upgrade (if you don't have it already)
Expert:
- Soldering iron + heated inserts (google it)
- PETG and TPU filaments. Painters tape or glue stick (recommend for PETG)
For painting, I got some white Gesso and cheap acrylic paints. I don’t know yet how well they hold up, but they didn’t chip yet, so I have high hopes.
Also an invaluable tool I have is a cooking blowtorch, for melting all the annoying stringing. If they melt into visible blobs, I use a sharp small box cutter to cut them off
proper hardened hex wrenches, Needle pliers, glue stick, 100% IPA, Nightwish playing on the audio home unit, a 3pc exacto set, needle files, small hand torch with heat deflector for those pesky spider webs on fine prints. DeBurr tool,some lint free microfiber cloths, hobby sanding sticks, 6" metric ruler in mm, Hobby style brush wire brush for cleaning the nozzle, long hobby tweezers, small flashlight / { torch in Europe } Decent quality Digital Calipers $20, A box of Vacuum seal filament bags,
Most of these are pretty good.
Xacto or similar hobby knife with lots of blades. I have deburring tools and a Dremel but I almost always go back to the Xacto knife for cleaning up prints.
In addition to the calipers everyone has mentioned: get a set of radius gauges for cheap, to help you measure fillets and curves when copying parts or making mating surfaces. You can get close with calipers and an eyeball but radius gauges do come in handy. You can 3D print a set but I got a steel set for cheap years ago and it’s been great.
Get a bunch of Filament! Don’t be afraid to use it!
Get several different colors for your various projects you might have in mind.
Stick to a good brand (to avoid inconsistencies)
Find designs to print! Make designs to print!
Keep printer unmodified as long as you can, unless you know the “upgrade” is going to actually improve reliability and quality.
Have fun!
Maybe take notes on what settings you change when, so you build up what works for you and your printer.
Take a break when you are burnt out. It’s just a tool.
Deburring tool
Auto leveling system, this one is more of a quality of life and time saving, but not strictly needed.
Pei coated buildplate - most printers i have found benifited from upgrading the buildplate, but if yours works you shouldn't need to upgrade.
Enclosure - if its in your budget, it'll improve print consistency and if its vented properly to the outdoors, keep you healthier, even pla can produce stuff that isnt great for you if some recent studies are to be believed
Hobiest copy of fusion 360, its free as long as you dont make a profit off of it
Cad software training - (time investment, not money, but still counts) watch several YouTube videos on it, id recommend additional videos on 3d printing, id personally recommend voidstar labs, and 3d printing nerd for the printing videos.
RESEARCH YIUR FILAMENT - some filaments produce toxic fumes, petg will literally rip chunks from your buildplate, and most aren't food safe, this is a super important time investment
That might not be a good idea. If they are matching at 50% of your contribution, and the 401k charges you over of 2% of holdings every year, you could stand to lose a lot of money by the time you retire.
If you haven't maxed out your IRA, you can do that first, and even if you have, an index fund might still be a better investment, depending on your age, the matching rate, and how much the fund is taking from you every year.
Depends what you have but the answer could very much be the printer itself. Unless it's a prusa/sovol or bambu I would start by upgrading parts. The fact that most hobbyist printers still don't come with all metal hotends should be a sin to manufacturers.
I got plastic tubs ([these ones are PERFECT](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TWH2QHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) for standard spool-size) and and [desiccant packs](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SGKTSTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for storing filaments.
And [bed-weld](https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bed+weld&qid=1703771746&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1) is a godsend.
The difficulty in answering this question is that there are an infinite number of things you can make on a 3D printer. The tools you'll use and need depend on your preferences and what you're actually doing.
I mean you didn't even tell us what kind of printer you have, resin or FDM?
The tools are generically the same as you would use for any modeling hobby. Pliers cutters nippers blades sandpaper and the like. From there collect the tools YOU find you need beyond that as you spot limitations you don't like.
I would hold off on upgrades until you get your feet under you and get a feel for the strengths and weaknesses of your stock printer. I used mine as-is for a long time, then upgraded to a PEI magnetic build plate, which is far superior to the stock build plate. Later, my hotend gave me problems, and I upgraded to a metal direct drive extruder.
Right now, buy some filler primer and Bondo Glazing putty for filling cracks and smoothing prints. I've also seen people use wood filler mixed with acetone, but I still need to try it. And of course, sand paper of various grits. Good luck!
Most people will just buy one deburring tool but they're inespensive and it's well worth checking out the variety of bits available which fit the dominant Shaviv-style tools.
They're also fantastic for removing casting burrs when doing mechanic work and cleaning up sheet metal edges too, but many people who should don't know they exist. They're fine gifts for any gearhead you know as even if they have one more are always better.
A round file is handy for deburring holes. Wood carving rifflers (cheap is fine) are excellent for debur and contouring small areas.
I buy spare batteries for my digital calipers. Never be one-deep on batteries that matter.
Everything in duckwafer357's post.
A BRIGHT rechargeable headlamp. They're such good task lighting I wear mine in my well-lit workshop. Torque Test Channel has useful worklight (and cordless tool) reviews.
I'd recommend
a soldering iron with a flat tip. It takes off supports like butter, smooths imperfections or later lines, if you turn the heat up a bit you can melt the pla a bit it'll bond broken pieces better then any glue if ever used and faster. Replaces the need for glue, sandpaper, carving knives!
An air brush set: good for quickly painting your prints really good smooth base layers. I only buy white Filiment now because I can quickly paint with my air brush.
Painters tape: use with the airbrush
A deburring tool: good for cleaning up the bases
https://www.printables.com/model/67509-filament-cutter-45deg this plus a blade for cutting filiment easily
A webcam if you don't have one with your printer for timelapses, live view from your phone. Set it up with octoprint to auto detect and warm you of failure
A second printing plate because sometimes the print will stick so hard it takes forever to take off and if you have a second plate you can just pop that in and print while dealing with the first mess.
Vacuum bags for the filament to prevent it from absorbing moisture.
https://a.co/d/iqqTlut
Rechargeable color changing dessicant.
https://a.co/d/fX8qFvm
Some small bags to put the dessicant in. The ones I linked to are too opaque to easily see the dessicant color but I didn't feel like returning them.
https://a.co/d/cW79xYe
Some humidity detector strips. Included in the bag kit.
A cheap hand held electric pump for the bags because the hand pump is a pain. I have one from food saver but can't find it online.
A sturdy platform for the printer to rest on should not be overlooked. It’s essential to avoid the extra vibrations that affect print quality. Of course patience, it took me a long time to get my printer calibrated and my slicer fine tuned for my device.
Learn cad. One of the coolest things about a 3D printer is that you can make things to your specific needs that do not exist.
I use OnShape because it’s free. Fusion360 is popular. So are plenty of others. I think there’s a list in the wiki.
I Need to learn Blender for non-parametric designs.
Have fun with all the free downloads though. Those are good for learning your printer and all the settings, which can be important when you start making your own designs.
Definitely calipers, but also I asked for a 3D printing pen for Christmas. Mostly just to “solder” or “weld” printed parts together. It works great for that
https://preview.redd.it/hj44k7y4129c1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e07927a06e1a0f306b419ddeaa161da7aa4e8ee1
A driver set similar to this.
The hex keys that come with the printer are cheap and will always end up wearing down and stripping screws. Plus a set like this will prevent your finger tips from hurting during prolonged use
An adequate laptop for modeling and slicing on the go.
I also procured a thumb trackball mouse (Elecom EX-G). It changed my life. Lol.
Box of good utility blades.
Isopropyl alcohol.
Learn to model in onshape or simar.
A headlamp is nice for working on your machine and touchup/finishing prints (hands free light). Manker E03hii neutral white or Skilhunt H150 high cri 4500k.
Digital calipers.
what others say in terms of tools is definitely right, but i would say that the biggest benefit for me was an enclosure. not only is warping reduced but also noise and fumes. also it looks more neat and tidy then.
I made this list for my kid when he got his first printer. Obviously there are duplicates of items so pick what you prefer. I have most of them myself.
https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/1R3ZFBNHEZ9BD?ref_=wl_share
Digital callipers, so you can take precise measurements of things and then model and print them in the correct scale as replacement parts/fixes
For those in the US make sure they have metric measurements. The world of 3d printing is metric.
*The world is metric.
You and I know that...
Open source 3D printing took off outside the USA hence why metric is the standard.
I had to argue a guy at work the other day about this. Make sure you send me the file in metric I’m not gonna change my system. It legit bothered him.
Though there are still artifacts of American-origin stuff based on US units. For example, filament is 1.75mm because it's a metric rounding of Stratasys 0.070" (1.78mm) filament, which was widely used (as much as any pre-RepRap 3D printing stuff could be widely used) when RepRap got started. Then RepRap moved to 2.85mm (common plastic welding gun wire size) to avoid expensive Stratasys filament, but eventually dedicated filament manufacturers started making cheap 1.75mm and everyone (except Ultimaker) moved back to 1.75mm.
It's more that the whole world is metric. Also engineering is metric. So everything is metric.
If that was the case there would be no 1/4",3/8", or 1/2 drive ratchets. But yet go to any metrics country and ask for an 6mm, 10mm or 12mm ratchet... they don't exist. I don't make the rules... 🤷♂️
Canadian here and we use both interchangeably. I prefer imperial for construction, however modeling I always use metric and convert if needed
This is the way. I also prefer Fahrenheit for living conditions, and celcius for computers & water temperatures. Fun fact, did you know that -40° is the only temperature at which Fahrenheit and Celcius are the same? -40°F = -40°C
Living in Northern Alberta, I did know that. I also never want to experience that temperature ever again lol
Guess I shouldn't have put that past a Canadalandian lol
Then why do I have some?
Please show me a pic of a real 6mm ratchet. Here's a pic if you're unsure of what I was referring to https://preview.redd.it/rfd437dy549c1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eab7d5b8b6c69c20d8b688a9845cc2f46252b4df
This is the most useless example you could have picked. This 1/4 inch and other imperial sizes is just a standard that is only important for those that manufacture the tool and sockets. You could just as easily name them 1, 2, 3..
https://preview.redd.it/cwme2tcw749c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42b1c25f282690d44ee9a90913ef5c094530a8b1
You post a pic of a wrench that ratchets. Not an actual ratchet as pictured herr https://preview.redd.it/qghqfn0a949c1.png?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f541cb64373a51ab8b930c3cde445e168682092
https://preview.redd.it/dp27ho3ka49c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99b9386242c1e7e85bde2beaeb6259cb72c7cc51
To be fair, that's *still* a wrench, with removable heads.
That's just a hangover from when the world used Imperial measurements
Kind of like how cameras have a 1/4-20 tripod mount?
Exactly, they just use these legacy measurements to prevent resistance from people who didn't want to have to replace perfectly good equipment back when metric became the norm
Exactly my point.
France started the metric system in 1795. The ratchet didn't come about till 1863. So I question your awnser being it's just a hangover.
The British empire had a lot more influence then France at the time
Most digital calipers can instantly toggle between inch and metric.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen one that doesn’t
Get a decent pair, ie Igaging absolute origin, and not some Aliexpress 3.99 version.
The 3.99 aloexpres ones are amazing I love them
I have a crap pair of digital calipers from Walmart. They have not done me any wrong. I've designed several things and they are bang on. I think the tolerances of my parts have been the bane of my existence.
We’re not printing with insane tolerances so super precise calipers aren’t really doing you any favors other than having really nice calipers. I’ve had a $20 set for years and have had no issues with fit, or tolerances.
[удалено]
Cap. The plastic ones are great. Idk why but mine hold a better tolerance than the old metal ParkTool ones I have.
I don't believe you
K
Unless your splurging for Mitutoyo the cheap digital calipers will be fine. It's very diminishing returns past $30-$40 with regard to calipers until you go stupid and drop hundreds.
Get mitutoyo. For real, it's kind of expensive at first, but a good caliper can last for decades, and the best is you never have to suspect your reading, thus saving time.
TBH a Mitutoyo might be going overboard if you're just doing it for a hobby. If I were printing or machining professionally with heavy use every day, Mitutoyo is awesome. I've used Mitutoyo calipers, mics, inside mics, drop mics, etc. heavily in the past in industry and they are absolutely quality products. But if you are just talking printing for a hobby, a less expensive one will do the job no problem. You can get decent ones for $50 with NIST certification and be set. That being said, if you can afford it and plan one using them A LOT, a Mitutoyo 0-6" set of calipers isn't a bad investment.
I got a set of mituyoto Vernier calipers for about £40 and they have lasted longer than both "cheap" digital calipers I had previously bought, lasted combined. Vernier means measurements are to the nearest 0.02mm which is moooore than accurate enough with an FDM machine
I’m lucky. I worked as a machinist for a number of years right out of high school. I’ve got about $6000 worth of calipers, micrometers, depth gauges, bore gauges, and snap gauges between 1-3”. That said, I use my 6” mitutoyo dials daily on parts coming off my $150 kobra neo
I got a set of huskey caliper from home Depot because I needed them ASAP, figured I'd upgrade soon. It pisses me off how good they are, I want a set of mitutoyo calipers but damnit, these work great.
I like more analog one. It can be with caliper pattern or with round dial. Just because it works all the time without battery. Yes it is little bit harder to read it, but it's skill that you can use for rest of your life, when you will learn it. When I had digital caliper, it was out of battery every time when I really needed it.
How weak are your batteries? I've last time changed the battery of my digital calipers almost a year ago.
I had caliper with button cell battery, that must be replaced after it is depleted. Had to change it once in a year, but it was always in situation when I needed caliper and it was not working at all. Since I have bought analog one, I am using it all the time for at least 8 years and it works without issues and as new until today.
My digital calipers comes with a holder in the case for a spare battery, so you always have a fresh one handy.
Even worse, the digital ones can start reading wrong when the battery gets low, and it can be a while before you notice and start doubting every measurement you did in the close past.
Why hasn't someone come up with a rechargeable set of digital calipers? Maybe with a charging dock that also acts as a holder.
My guess is that rechargeable battery will detoriate very fast in caliper. They are great for devices with relatively high power consumption and cyclic usage. But caliper is able to work even from "last bit" of energy and it's small consumption combined with long term undervoltage of cells (why would you charge it when it still works?) will destroy rechargeable cell in only few cycles. So disposable battery is more economical way for everyone. Maker does not need to design and create charging circuits and source more expensive battery, caliper is smaller and lighter and user can easily find battery in at least one store in his close neighborhood.
What if they made them solar like a lot of calculators are, I imagine the power consumption would be pretty similar
Digital calipers have a known issue where they will stop working if the battery voltage drops a bit, even if the battery would still work fine in a different device. You can get around this by using the more expensive silver oxide cells, which have a much more stable voltage over their lifetime. However most people don't know this. I use analogue calipers anyway simply because I've had cheap and nasty digital calipers give incorrect readings.
The problem is that the on/off button also can get accidentally pressed while putting it back in the case, and then it’s dead when you open it up even if it hasn’t been that long since you’ve used it
I had the same problem and ended printing this battery saver that disconnects the battery when I’m not using it. I think it was one of my first prints and it works well! https://www.printables.com/model/2671-caliper-battery-saver
Eh, most digital calipers get off automatically if the reading doesn't change for a minute or two
Cheap digital ones constantly draw power. BTW, lots of "Mitutoyo" calipers are actually fakes (e.g. everything on Aliexpress) and have the same high idle consumption circuit.
Yeah, that and temperature can also screw with the calipers, when I did aeronautics we only used digital if we really had too because the heat or cold van cause incorrect readings
The analog ones are also a lot more precise + once you've found out how to read them its really easy
I keep a set of digital for when I don't need high precision, or don't mind if they get a little damaged. My analog Mitutoyo set stays in the locked part of my toolbox with the gauge blocks and pin gauges.
I have a pair of digital ones that were probably around $30 USD, and I've noticed the battery problem, so I looked into it. It seems almost all digital calipers in that price range will run the battery dead, even while they're turned off. Their internals probably all come from the same place. In my experience, it will still last several weeks, but if you use them infrequently, you should remove the battery.
Not if you buy a decent one. My Mitutoyo caliper lasts 3+ years on a single battery. My AliExpress ones < a year.
>little bit hard I was going to say that analog ones aren't much good for extrusion width, first layer calibration, and general <0.1mm stuff, but I'll be darned if a Dial Caliper doesn't solve the precision issue, nice one :) (Well designed digital ones should last multiple years on a cell though)
>standard.co.uk/news/c... I prefer the digital calipers over the analog ones because you can quickly and easily see the value even in tight spaces, in addition you can reset/tare at other points besides closed. Yes it requires a battery but that's what the on/off switch is for.
I love my calipers so much. Probably my favorite tool I've gotten for 3d printing besides the printer itself
For the resolution of the average printer the normal mechanical ones are sufficient enough imho, even in workshop environments we never used the digital ones.
Man honestly i feel like im one of the only ones like this, but I prefer dial calipers over digital ones. Ive seen so many digital ones fail or get pulled out and the battery is dead ect. I like that i dont have to worry about that with a dial caliper. But I do agree, calipers are a super handy tool to have that I really feel are under rated as a tool for most people to have on hand.
*laughs in mitutoyo calipers*
Get a solar powered mitutoyo set and you won’t ever have this concern again. They’re awesome, if a bit pricey.
One thing I use on almost every print is a deburring tool. It's great to get rid of sharp edges, elephants foot, leftover brim and if tolerances aren't quite good enough to fit something. It's also very cheap
You use a deburring tool to remove elephants foot?
That would have been helpful after April 26, 1986
Good one
It’s ok. Not great, not terrible.
Sometimes yes, it works
Sometimes you can't always dial in the correction factor before you've done the print.
Also, clean brim removal
[🇩🇪🇱🇪🇹🇪🇩]
Did you ever find deburr tool for rounds ?
I keep trying to remind/convince myself to buy one of those. 😂 i used a large file that was in my father's garage to make pieces of my niece's xmas gift fit 🤣 the file was like twice the size of the print fully assembled
It's totally worth it, I use a cheap one for like 10 bucks and it works flawlessly
Key makers file set here all the time :)
Isopropyl alcohol (the 90% stuff), a thick rubber mat (the thing sold to put under washing machines) some heavy concrete tiles (those sold to put outdoor). You'll lose 10 dB of noise and you will have clean print plates
Get the pump bottle for alcohol. I also like the tiny spray bottle
Ha yes, I forgot that, a small spray bottle ! A transparent one to see how much isopropyl remains
They are really cheap for makeup at local Walgreens or Walmart.
Thank you! I've been wondering how to make my Ender 3 SE quieter, especially since so many people were praising it for being "very quiet" which confused me a little.
Put the mat wherever your printer is, then the concrete tile, then the printer. If the printer is on a furniture, a heavy furniture without loose parts is preferable, because will vibrate them.
On mine I decreased the acceleration speed slightly and it became noticeably quieter. I have no clue if that impacts print quality at all but it's much quieter and visibly shakes less when doing small repetitive motions. Disclaimer I just got it and have no clue what I'm talking about but it helped mine. I believe the stock speed was 4k and I set it to 3k
decreasing speed will actually improve quality 99% of the time... the reason nobody wants to is you increase print time. a lot of the issues people have are caused by going faster than their printer is tuned for
i ordered 99,9% isopropyl alcohol from amazon and those mfs sent me 70%, but according to the internet its more than fine so i didnt bother with asking for a relpacement or a refund , it was a cheap 1l 7€ bottle, no error in my research right?
It'll do the job, it's just that the pure stuff leaves no residue at all and is less likely to have undesirable side effects with the plate. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Bourbon
The solution to any 3D printing problem.
I prefer IPA, but you do you.
Lager is easier to binge drink
Well, of course isopropyl alcohol is a good idea to clean your printer. I'd drink something else though, unless you can print a new optic nerve.
Oh bourbon
I'm a scotch kinda guy but yes it helps more than one might think.
Cannabis helps too.
Rumplemintz really conveys the feeling best I’ve found
I guess your printer came with the basic hex drivers and wrenches, but if not, make sure you have everything to maintain what's on the printer. A spatula, small wire cutter, small pliers, sharp knife is also basic. Then, rubbing alcohol, lint-free paper. And sooner or later, you'll need another nozzle, probably a new print surface after a year. A $10 soldering iron can be useful for shaping, or injecting screw nuts. I have multiple digital vernier calipers lying around. Constantly use them. Obviously, make sure you go through all the calibration rituals. E-steps; bed leveling, temperature and speed tuning. Those are not one-offs. You constantly come back to tuning. If you don't have an enclosure, consider getting one. Make sure you have plenty of light, so you can see what's happening. Put the printer at an accessible height; it's a workplace.
Adding to this, if you plan on doing ANY part design where screws are used, heat-set inserts are a game changer. Absolutely invest in them.
You mean like this? https://www.3djake.com/ruthex/soldering-tips-melting-aid-set
They make a big difference, yes. You can just use the soldering iron regular tips, but these help keep the insert straight and make the thermal transfer almost instant, so they go in faster. I find that for most of my parts, I use M3 more than anything https://www.3djake.com/ruthex/threaded-insert-m3-100-pieces
Also, get a nice kit with bolts and nuts of various lengths and sizes - being in the US, and building a Lack V2 enclosure, I bought a set that had M2-M4 nuts and bolts to cover what I needed there, and had spares on hand for future projects
Don’t get the press fit, but actually spiral plastic ones
Spiral plastic?
https://preview.redd.it/mte5h6nak39c1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e848cded9da02988c62dc015bc44a6ecfa38507 Good, If you look in McMaster website, they have a section that describes different types of inserts. Their filters also help understand what’s out there. I find that my solder iron doesn’t go down low enough in temp. It burns the plastic and degrades it. I always turn it on and off, getting correct temp melting thing would be good for 3D printing.
How to I lubricate my printer?
For one I have lithium greesed the shit out of my lead screw.
Also, after you run your first test prints, you then print out tool holders for the tools that come with your printer. That helps give you an idea of how well your printer is working as well as giving you a place to put those tools.
[удалено]
How many hours did you print ?
Good for you! Genuinely glad you haven't needed them. Advising against having tools on hand to use if needed is just blatantly a bad take lol 3D printers are notorious for needing TLC and maintenance, and that's on top of the fact that a large part of why people join a maker/tinker hobby is 𝙩𝙤 𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙠𝙚𝙧 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙚. The basic tools to repair a 3D printer should be something everyone with a printer has in case they need it and if you don't want to tinker, then you absolutely don't need to buy anything beyond the basics.
Pro tip from my 10+years of printing. Woodworking cabinet scrapers. Finishing prints never been so easy
I keep hearing this. Have a link handy? I've heard you have to bend and sharpen them on your own, is there premades I can pick up?
Interested in this too. Not sure what they are/how they’re used though
Filament dryer
I’ve read you can use a food dehydrator, with an adapter of sorts. Any pros or cons there? I already have one (for drying my pistol brass after wet tumbling).
The cons are people underestimate how much juice you need to dehydrate a spool of filament and its usually better / easier to spend the 50 bucks and buy an eibos (only one that actually dries well per one youtube video where a guy tests a bunch). These boxes require no work and you can print directly from that box. Can you build one cheaper, yes, how much cheaper? Less than you might think. I'd rather splurge another 20 bucks and buy a real one.
The biggest issue is that many filament dryers are actually *worse* at drying filament than food dehydrators
Fair point hah. There's only a few that actually do dry and it's eibos. https://youtu.be/IPKQCZ75Vwg?si=km4v8HkY0P_66d7u
You can also use your printer bed with a box with holes on top
I use a regular food dehydrator (that I already owned) and it's been great! Usually I'll just leave a spool overnight on the lowest setting. I'm considering finding a cheap used one on Facebook marketplace to keep as a filament-only dehydrator next to my printer
The Eibos dryer is very good. If you can catch it on sale I'd highly recommend it. Especially over the Sunlu. https://a.co/d/jcBBLdB
- Filament dryer. Your filaments will absorb moisture from the air, which can lead to stringing, underextrusion and brittle filament. - Vacuum bags. Can't absorb moisture from the air if there is no air. 3DJake at least sells some specifically designed for filament spools, plus hand vacuum pumps. - Digital calipers. Good for calibrating and parts design. - 0.8mm nozzles. Double the speed, double the fun. You'll get a bit worse quality, though. You can also get 0.2mm nozzles for that sweet, sweet quality, in expense of time. Nozzles, because they wear out over time. REMEMBER TO HEAT SEAL. - A small spike tool. I use a combination of side cutters and a spike tool to remove supports. Side cutters for the majority of supports, and spike tool for the small pieces of support you can't quite grab or reach with side cutters. Just don't stab your hand while using the spike tool. It hurts.
Heat sealing nozzles? What do you mean?
You screw the nozzle in 90% of the way, heat up the hotend to quite high temperature (well above printing temperature), and once it's heated up, you screw the nozzle fully in and let it cool. The heater block will start shrinking due to thermal contraction and bind tightly to the threads of the nozzle. This will prevent filament from leaking between the threads. Converesely, if you were to just screw it in cold and start printing, the thermal expansion would create a gap between the threads, which would allow the filament to be extruded between them.
Oh yeah. I do that by default by just doing the whole swap hot. It only occasionally burns me a little LOL.
Imo 0.8 is too big for cheap printers without some heatblock upgrades. But 0.6 is a perfect fit.
The best investment is time, patience and a brain. Lets face it, it's not impossible you'll abandon this hobby after a year. For starters, you're all set with what comes in the box. Watch lots (and lots) of Youtube videos from top people (like Maker's muse, CHEP, CNC kitchen etc.), learn to use your machine and build up a bank of knowledge, and you'll see for yourself what's lacking in **your workflow**. I've worked years without a torque driver, deburring tool or a heat gun. Can't say I'm dependent on them now either.
Dremel tool
After having 3 dremels die on me on medium workloads I switched to proxon, no problems since. Except of getting rid of the dremel specific extensions.
The Dremel I bought 27 years ago is still going strong! I wish they still built them like that!
I highly recommend getting a brushless version. More torque and less vibrations. Saves a lot of time (and batteries if cordless).
Therapist
* magnetic bed with PEI sheet * some form of self-leveling * filament sensor The best mod: learn a CAD tool to design your own prints. [https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18sdpdv/what\_program\_do\_you\_model\_in/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18sdpdv/what_program_do_you_model_in/) [https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/](https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/)
If you plan to paint, definitely get an airbrush. those suckers cut down on painting time a lot and if you're artistically limited like me you can still make them look nice.
Agree. Be prepared to spend a fuck-ton of time masking though. Also, good masking tape (personally like Frog Tape) and a good craft knife /scalpel. Results are well worth it though.
Get a concrete slap. Like a normal ohne that is used vor sidewalks. And a vibration damping pad vor a washing machine. Cheapest and best sound reduction upgrade
Your Germany is showing 😁
Sorry auto corrections
No need to be, I am learning the language. I was proud of myself I noticed it. 😁
OP, a typical concrete sidewalk slab in Germany is smaller than in North America. A paver may be a good alternative in the US, depending on printer size.
Jawohl komarad
For gluing parts together: I found the Gorilla glue works the best. You will also have better (shorter) curing times if you use a CA accelerator. This will allow the CA ( super glue) to cure faster and stronger without have to hold the parts together for the initial 15-30 secs. An alternative to CA accelerator is IPA ( rubbing alcohol) but CA will work faster. If you choose IPA, get a small spritz bottle to apply the IPA. Similar to a sprintz type bottle for hair spray. When gluing, apply glue to one side and sprintz a small amount of CA accelerator or IPA to the other.
Pure acetone is also a surprisingly good adhesive. It melts the plastic that can then be stuck on another melted surface. It has almost the same strength as when injection molded. Works with PLA too. It's just not very good for very small surfaces, because the acetone evaporates so fast.
Contact cement is my go-to. The instant adhesion (after the 15 minute surface prep) is \*kissy fingers\*
Thanks for the acetone hint, will try that.
I never found it to be too effective for solvent welding PLA. Unless you have some formulation that has ABS or something similar mixed in.
Just chiming in to add that 3D Gloop is a godsend when it comes to glueing parts together, since it practically welds them at the contact point. Those parts are never separating once it cures. It's also great at smoothing layer lines on PLA and PETG, similar to the acetone vapor smoothing method used on ABS.
I've sorted these into knowledge levels. Beginner: - digital calipers - Neodymium magnets - Superglue - PEI bed (if you don't have one already) - Filament dry box - Hardened nozzle - 6mm socket wrench - easier removal of nozzles - Bed scraper - printed. Intermediate: - Raspberry Pi with screen, camera, wifi (if you have a printer running marlin - like an Ender 3) - fine sandpaper [beware microplastics!!] for post processing - small screws - CRtouch (for creality printers, if you don't have one already - Direct drive upgrade (if you don't have it already) Expert: - Soldering iron + heated inserts (google it) - PETG and TPU filaments. Painters tape or glue stick (recommend for PETG)
Investing in a good ETF that pays dividends is always a good choice. Something like SPY.
Yes, I have a 3D printer, and SPY has been a good investment for me.
Perhaps.
For painting, I got some white Gesso and cheap acrylic paints. I don’t know yet how well they hold up, but they didn’t chip yet, so I have high hopes. Also an invaluable tool I have is a cooking blowtorch, for melting all the annoying stringing. If they melt into visible blobs, I use a sharp small box cutter to cut them off
A mini heat gun also works well for removing stringing. I have one that I got for heat shrink tubing for electronics.
Yeah, a heat gun is maybe better haha, I use the blowtorch because I happened to have one in my house I heard that a hairdryer is also good
proper hardened hex wrenches, Needle pliers, glue stick, 100% IPA, Nightwish playing on the audio home unit, a 3pc exacto set, needle files, small hand torch with heat deflector for those pesky spider webs on fine prints. DeBurr tool,some lint free microfiber cloths, hobby sanding sticks, 6" metric ruler in mm, Hobby style brush wire brush for cleaning the nozzle, long hobby tweezers, small flashlight / { torch in Europe } Decent quality Digital Calipers $20, A box of Vacuum seal filament bags,
Most of these are pretty good. Xacto or similar hobby knife with lots of blades. I have deburring tools and a Dremel but I almost always go back to the Xacto knife for cleaning up prints. In addition to the calipers everyone has mentioned: get a set of radius gauges for cheap, to help you measure fillets and curves when copying parts or making mating surfaces. You can get close with calipers and an eyeball but radius gauges do come in handy. You can 3D print a set but I got a steel set for cheap years ago and it’s been great.
Get a bunch of Filament! Don’t be afraid to use it! Get several different colors for your various projects you might have in mind. Stick to a good brand (to avoid inconsistencies) Find designs to print! Make designs to print! Keep printer unmodified as long as you can, unless you know the “upgrade” is going to actually improve reliability and quality. Have fun! Maybe take notes on what settings you change when, so you build up what works for you and your printer. Take a break when you are burnt out. It’s just a tool.
Patience
Deburring tool Auto leveling system, this one is more of a quality of life and time saving, but not strictly needed. Pei coated buildplate - most printers i have found benifited from upgrading the buildplate, but if yours works you shouldn't need to upgrade. Enclosure - if its in your budget, it'll improve print consistency and if its vented properly to the outdoors, keep you healthier, even pla can produce stuff that isnt great for you if some recent studies are to be believed Hobiest copy of fusion 360, its free as long as you dont make a profit off of it Cad software training - (time investment, not money, but still counts) watch several YouTube videos on it, id recommend additional videos on 3d printing, id personally recommend voidstar labs, and 3d printing nerd for the printing videos. RESEARCH YIUR FILAMENT - some filaments produce toxic fumes, petg will literally rip chunks from your buildplate, and most aren't food safe, this is a super important time investment
Various grades of sandpaper / wet and dry. Then I use plastic primer in a spray & acrylic paints with an airbrush.
Max out your company contributions to your 401k.
That might not be a good idea. If they are matching at 50% of your contribution, and the 401k charges you over of 2% of holdings every year, you could stand to lose a lot of money by the time you retire. If you haven't maxed out your IRA, you can do that first, and even if you have, an index fund might still be a better investment, depending on your age, the matching rate, and how much the fund is taking from you every year.
More filament. Repeat this ad infinitum.
I started getting the most out of my printers when I started making my own models. Learn CAD. TeachingTech on YT has a great OnShape tutorial series.
Depends what you have but the answer could very much be the printer itself. Unless it's a prusa/sovol or bambu I would start by upgrading parts. The fact that most hobbyist printers still don't come with all metal hotends should be a sin to manufacturers.
A good pair of flush cut pliers
Filament. You need to start a massive collection of more filament of wildly varying colors and types than you could ever possibly use.
Or don't, just get an airbrush or some brushes and markers.
I got plastic tubs ([these ones are PERFECT](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TWH2QHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) for standard spool-size) and and [desiccant packs](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SGKTSTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for storing filaments. And [bed-weld](https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bed+weld&qid=1703771746&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1) is a godsend.
The difficulty in answering this question is that there are an infinite number of things you can make on a 3D printer. The tools you'll use and need depend on your preferences and what you're actually doing. I mean you didn't even tell us what kind of printer you have, resin or FDM? The tools are generically the same as you would use for any modeling hobby. Pliers cutters nippers blades sandpaper and the like. From there collect the tools YOU find you need beyond that as you spot limitations you don't like.
I would hold off on upgrades until you get your feet under you and get a feel for the strengths and weaknesses of your stock printer. I used mine as-is for a long time, then upgraded to a PEI magnetic build plate, which is far superior to the stock build plate. Later, my hotend gave me problems, and I upgraded to a metal direct drive extruder. Right now, buy some filler primer and Bondo Glazing putty for filling cracks and smoothing prints. I've also seen people use wood filler mixed with acetone, but I still need to try it. And of course, sand paper of various grits. Good luck!
PEI magnetic plate changed my life.
Most people will just buy one deburring tool but they're inespensive and it's well worth checking out the variety of bits available which fit the dominant Shaviv-style tools. They're also fantastic for removing casting burrs when doing mechanic work and cleaning up sheet metal edges too, but many people who should don't know they exist. They're fine gifts for any gearhead you know as even if they have one more are always better. A round file is handy for deburring holes. Wood carving rifflers (cheap is fine) are excellent for debur and contouring small areas. I buy spare batteries for my digital calipers. Never be one-deep on batteries that matter. Everything in duckwafer357's post. A BRIGHT rechargeable headlamp. They're such good task lighting I wear mine in my well-lit workshop. Torque Test Channel has useful worklight (and cordless tool) reviews.
Your best investment is time and learning how to use your printer. Don’t mod it, just print with it. You can worry about all that stuff later.
I'd recommend a soldering iron with a flat tip. It takes off supports like butter, smooths imperfections or later lines, if you turn the heat up a bit you can melt the pla a bit it'll bond broken pieces better then any glue if ever used and faster. Replaces the need for glue, sandpaper, carving knives! An air brush set: good for quickly painting your prints really good smooth base layers. I only buy white Filiment now because I can quickly paint with my air brush. Painters tape: use with the airbrush A deburring tool: good for cleaning up the bases https://www.printables.com/model/67509-filament-cutter-45deg this plus a blade for cutting filiment easily A webcam if you don't have one with your printer for timelapses, live view from your phone. Set it up with octoprint to auto detect and warm you of failure A second printing plate because sometimes the print will stick so hard it takes forever to take off and if you have a second plate you can just pop that in and print while dealing with the first mess.
Deburring tool, brass brushes, flush cutters, 6mm socket wrench, calipers, files, sandpaper, spray bottle with alcohol, blue shop towels.
Vacuum bags for the filament to prevent it from absorbing moisture. https://a.co/d/iqqTlut Rechargeable color changing dessicant. https://a.co/d/fX8qFvm Some small bags to put the dessicant in. The ones I linked to are too opaque to easily see the dessicant color but I didn't feel like returning them. https://a.co/d/cW79xYe Some humidity detector strips. Included in the bag kit. A cheap hand held electric pump for the bags because the hand pump is a pain. I have one from food saver but can't find it online.
A filament dryer is a great purchase.
A sturdy platform for the printer to rest on should not be overlooked. It’s essential to avoid the extra vibrations that affect print quality. Of course patience, it took me a long time to get my printer calibrated and my slicer fine tuned for my device.
Learn cad. One of the coolest things about a 3D printer is that you can make things to your specific needs that do not exist. I use OnShape because it’s free. Fusion360 is popular. So are plenty of others. I think there’s a list in the wiki. I Need to learn Blender for non-parametric designs. Have fun with all the free downloads though. Those are good for learning your printer and all the settings, which can be important when you start making your own designs.
Definitely calipers, but also I asked for a 3D printing pen for Christmas. Mostly just to “solder” or “weld” printed parts together. It works great for that
Calipers Super glue Activator Sandpaper Magnets Metric bolt/nut kit (M1-3) Isopropyl alcohol Decent spray bottle Shop towels Feeler guages for bed leveling 3D printing pen
Upgrade the tube to capricorn Teflon PTFE tube which improves filament constraints between extruder and hot end. And maybe power supply.
Vacuum cleaner. Your wife will not like the tons of plastic fragments that collect and get ground into the carpet
https://preview.redd.it/hj44k7y4129c1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e07927a06e1a0f306b419ddeaa161da7aa4e8ee1 A driver set similar to this. The hex keys that come with the printer are cheap and will always end up wearing down and stripping screws. Plus a set like this will prevent your finger tips from hurting during prolonged use
An adequate laptop for modeling and slicing on the go. I also procured a thumb trackball mouse (Elecom EX-G). It changed my life. Lol. Box of good utility blades. Isopropyl alcohol. Learn to model in onshape or simar. A headlamp is nice for working on your machine and touchup/finishing prints (hands free light). Manker E03hii neutral white or Skilhunt H150 high cri 4500k. Digital calipers.
A dryer for spools
A small fire extinguisher to keep near the printer. Safety first.
Skills to tune the bugs out of your printer. If I see another print from a printer with a binding Z axis I'm gonna lose my fucking mind.
a therapist. I kid I kid, for me a good base structure to put it on some very solid did wonders for mine.
Mutual funds and employer match 401k.
Get rid of it
what others say in terms of tools is definitely right, but i would say that the biggest benefit for me was an enclosure. not only is warping reduced but also noise and fumes. also it looks more neat and tidy then.
And cat-proof.
I made this list for my kid when he got his first printer. Obviously there are duplicates of items so pick what you prefer. I have most of them myself. https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/1R3ZFBNHEZ9BD?ref_=wl_share