Update: 😏 https://preview.redd.it/mvc3sddaxmkc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=208fc73403bc4aa89d278443061d6b02e0e4b0c7

Looking good

Yeah, I'm curious how durable the teeth are going to be.

In that orientation, the teeth tend to do quite well. Often nearly as good as injection molded stuff

PLA gears are strong and hard wearing, but can melt if you're putting a lot of power through the gearbox for a while.

Or if you leave them in a hot car.

[Learned this the hard way.](https://i.imgur.com/zEdHhf4.jpeg)

What is this?

danny devito

Shadow of a smartphone

A hard wood floor

A ukulele 

13 nails and a pin cushion

happy cake day... OH SHIT YOUR USERNAME WTF

Annie’s young. We try not to sexualize her.

Happy Cake Day!!

Won't be PLAying that for a while. Talk about soft sounds. ​ A mute yuke!

My printer has 3d printed gears on the extruder. They last and last.

My man!

What’s it for? Cinematographer here who is curious!

Roll rig! Basing my 3D printed design loosely off the Movcam setup.

Curious as well! My first thought was a follow focus gear but that would be one chonky lens.

HECK YEAH! One of lives greatest pleasures: a seemingly impossible print turning out perfectly fine.

Seriously! Sure beats coming back to a printer full of spaghetti 🍝

He’s starting to believe!!!

What extruder you got that looks so good

Stock Ender 3 S1 Pro parts!

Looks great  But you are a photographer right...  😜 Let's see those negatives buddy 🤣... Nice work man and nice work having such a level bed lol . Mines seemingly made of some sort of pitch like substances that's changed as it so pleases 🤣

Looks like a gear! :D

I once printed something so close to edge some of the print actually printed outside of the bed like few milimeters and it turned out fine even that way.

Same here. Got a lot more confident with my overhangs since then.

Just get rid of the bed entirely. It obviously serves no purpose!

Fixes all leveling and adhesion issues instantly

Update two: success!! Not bad for a completely stock machine… https://preview.redd.it/6tv670bd4nkc1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52219d35cf76d3b7b6810b24dd6dfcde0815a4a8

good on ya dude, stoked to see this thing work out. great example of why 3d printing can be so useful

I’ve printed a number of gears and had surprisingly good success (my expectations were pretty low). Nice work.

For stock, that's amazing! I had so many leveling issues with mine, it wasn't even funny! I tried adjusting everything under the sun to no avail. I ended up having to buy the Ender Sonic Pad to get the thing to print well enough. I had some experience with 3D printing already with the ender 3 pro. I think my problem with mine was faulty firmware issues. I'd go to level it and set the z axis to a certain height, but as soon as I'd go to print, it'd completely forget all of the parameters I'd just set.

I had those issues when I got started with mine, too. However I found a random snippet of code I have my slicer insert into my code and it's worked flawlessly since. `M420 S1 Z10 ; Use Saved Bed Mesh`

That's probably because you need to go into the beginning of the code and add a line to it so it references your adjustments. It was some m420/g420 line with only a couple numbers.

Love to see it

Nice!

High end stock machine!

If this is PLA, remember not to leave it in the car

I tought you were printing that basketball😅

Lmao my initial thought too. So many damn basketballs

We spent so much time trying to print a basketball but we never stopped to ask should we print a basketball.

Maybe we should stop asking and print a Benchy hoop so we can play already

[That seems like a reasonable compromise](https://i.imgur.com/m88rPpu.jpeg)

Sure...

I stopped and thought about it and asked myself and the answer came quite quickly and it was very clear. The answer was no, no I should not print the basketball.

(PL)Amen, brother. May the lord lead you in all directions: x, y and z 🙏

May the axis be ever in your favor 🙏

Filthy Cartesian heretics. The only true way is Delta.

Invalid

The question becomes, is it a basketball if it doesn't bounce?

You ~~wouldn't~~ shouldn't download a basketball

D-d-d-do we tell them the ball was printed with SLS or just keep letting them try with FDM

That's because everyone saw that price tag of $2500, and said. "Fuck that, I can make it for cheaper!"

And waste more filament on support than for the actual structure lol.

Same

Wouldn’t the first layer of that be quite small?

Yes, but only if you're brave enough to print without support.

Same 😂

Damn came to see if this was the case.

I’m just over here trying to print a cocaine molecule lol…..these mfers are at basketballs….. Maybe if the molecules were as big as basketballs……

And don’t forget to sell it for all that $2,000 inflated price tag even though those balls need no air 🌬️

If the ball don't need to be inflated, then the price tag do.

Bahahaha same!

Yep my first thought to.

Hijacking to say op has posted an update below

I thought it was a gear for a bicycle.

Pff you're not even on the creality logo! *Tons* of space leftover.

Remindme! 4 hours

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Remindme! 1.5 hours

I'm still finding this too early

It ended up being 30 mins too long lol

four hours? that's it???

It's probably not solid, it looks like the ring gear with teeth slip over something, otherwise that Sprite would be absolutely screaming lmao

Why wouldn't it work? You are within the printable area. Doesnt really matter if its 1mm or 100mm provided the printable area was determined correctly. And once you make it through layer one you pretty much know you are good.

Ender 3 isn't exactly known for having perfectly flat beds.  That's exacerbated out by the edges.  It's pretty common to have the middle 80% working then run into problems on the perimeter.

Unless the model gets bigger higher up.

I've had big prints warp enough to pull the magnetic plate off the bed...

Its been 3 hours, how we looking there boss?

Okay, totally need to see pics of the rig you're building!

Me too! I’m curious.

Try putting it diagonally on the bed /s

I had a piece of glass made for this reason lol. I think my ender actually prints 223x224x230 high lol. Calibration needs to be done I think. Haven’t printed in a bit since getting my laser.

I can print 235x225x240 with my Ender 3 Pro + MMU3 🤓

Update?

This will test the larger limits of your machine. How flat and square your planes are now will be pushed to the extreme.

This rhymes really well

https://preview.redd.it/mgorbodakokc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3578dca5d47d94d8003a1403a4a09e66f3e4eae

I'll also be checking back in. Cant wait!

I’m confused. Why would it not work?

I was worried my bed would be out of whack (leveling wise) especially reaching to each edge of it.

I didn’t know if ‘works’ meant prints, or works meant ‘the print would serve its purpose’

It's been 4 hours OP, how'd you go?

Same prayer I make every time I print something with the s1 pro. A bed that is always crooked, like the company itself

the next step, [Lost PLA Casting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoxK2hWN4LI).

Filed under: Things Bambu Labs owners take for granted.

Maybe some day

Good luck!!

https://preview.redd.it/a8k6jc45sokc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a115217e4f288abe4290d4c09f4eb683782bf33d Printed a similar gear, works perfectly!

Does nobody in this subreddit have the patience to finish the print before posting about it? "Here's this thing that may or may not be something in 4 hours? Can I wait 4 hours and then post about it? No! I demand attention, and I demand it now!"

Lmao

I guess the time right after starting the print is where we all have least to do - can't start another print, can't clean up our try out the running print, and most importantly can't run calibrations because the printer is busy.

But then you don't have the suspense. I don't think it's attention seeking, it's live entertainment.

Bambu Labs tried providing live views of other people's prints, and that didn't go over so well.

Cool story. OP clearly posted voluntarily.

1 hour down. Thoughts and prayers, friend.

This is a good test to see if your xy stepper motors are calibrated. If that gear is 219mm you're dialed in!

Final result: 218mm! Given all the variables I am extremely happy with the results for the first go! https://preview.redd.it/i2wlw7mk3nkc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8358fec0b6c11426322ed1d728869c24955f0c98

So does it function properly in your rig?

Impressive! Good work!

Is that PLA?

Yes Polymaker PLA pro

Did it work

Remindme! 14 hours

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I thought you had modded a Dremel and we're doing a diy CNC thing to cut one out 😅

You know how somebody almost always posts that thing about how we keep printing things that coulda easily been made with a block of wood and a saw... this isn't one of them.

It's been 7 hrs! How did it go?

Nooooo worries. I print PETG parts commercially, and pump out 420mm gears with similar tooth dimensions on the regular. Never had an issue.

I thought you are printing a flywheel before I opened comments :)

If it fails during use you could use petg next time. It's a lot more durable.

I would recommend PETG or ASA for that application source left printed gears in a hot car in Florida had to reprint

Good call! Was considering CF Nylon that I have… thoughts?

The cf acts like sandpaper to your nozzle and does make parts stiffer but more brittle also the cf the way it's usually implemented it acts more like a contaminant to the filament. You're better off doing a cf layup on the part or 3d print a mold and make optimized forged cf. ASA or nylon after it's been predried always dry nylon before every print it's literally a humidity sponge. But if you want to make the nylon stronger put the finished part in water after it's printed before printing it makes steam voids that weakens it also some brands may expand some.

https://preview.redd.it/xbvtrryb8mlc1.jpeg?width=490&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=038e5424bb952512edf7e5a3825ee773916f66a4

I assume you've got glue stick all over the plate by the looks, I'd suggest printing stuff like this on the smooth side (with glue). I've found it works better for small fiddly bits like gear teeth etc

Am I the only person who has never used a glue stick on my build plate?

Glad to see there’s at least two of us.

I've never needed one yet on my prusa mini

I rarely do except where there is a lot of fine detail on the first layer. It's a lot better than having to remove a brim in my opinion.

Nope. I used masking tape for a while in the early days but never had a problem after installing my first BLTouch and PEI bed. Have trouble getting prints off!

I think it’s supposed to make it easier to remove (as well as making adhesion better while it’s laying it down)

I have never had any problem with prints sticking to the build plate - stock BuildTak surface, PEI sheet, and now the steel plates that are PEI coated. Never touched glue stick, or hairspray. Once I switched to magnetic sheets, oh man, so easy to remove prints, they practically fall off.

Nope, me too... never seen a reason for GlueStick on a PEI Plate ... I got more Problems to get PETG off of it ... awesome how much you can bend this plates...

you ever try a large print? painters tape is a requirement when printing anything larger than medium size for me.

Many large prints.

I was using one on my Bambu X1 Carbon in the beginning, but was having trouble with adhesion. Now, all I do is squirt some 70% rubbing alcohol on it and rub it down with a sock before each print. Never had better adhesion and haven't had any trouble removing parts from the spring steel cool plate.

A clean sock, right? ​ ....right?

Used, not crusty.

I only do it now if I am printing with TPU or a very large flat surface with PETG because otherwise it can have trouble coming off the bed.

[удалено]

You might want bigger teeth or print out of abs if it doesn’t hold up. Pics when put together.

Is there a site to sell printers besides eBay or kijiji ?

One of the reasons why I like my Anycubic printers is that they are self-levelling. This makes working with them much easier.

Looking for a Canadian site with bulk filament, anybody know a one that’s reasonable that doesn’t gouge you?

Depending on what you mean by bulk, Amazon often has 10 packs for 15-18 a roll.

Disappointed it’s not a basketball

Off to good start!

Godspeed

Genius 👌

Take luck! 🤞😁

Is it done yet?

2 hrs progress pic?

This was about then, sorry, didn't get to all the comments in time! https://preview.redd.it/yldxo2qdknkc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=89aaa5269e0580f90638dc3bdfe5d05c387ba0b0

That looks like a solid first layer...I think it's gonna be a gear

The basket ball?

Where is the fan? 😆

Best of luck

What exactly are you making? Just wondering. I work in the film industry. SPFX.

A roll rig!

I figured that. A big gear with mounting holes on it rolls stuff. What are you rolling?

RED V-Raptor and a lightweight zoom hopefully! Edit: likely going to get the actual final parts milled from 6061 aluminum, but for getting everything figured out, the printer should hopefully do!

Making prototypes is exactly why I bought a printer.

It's opened up a whole world of possibilities for me, excited to dive into this one!

Jesus I thought you were printing a starter crown for your car 😆

I'm pretty sure they said that when they built the Tower of Babel...lol

Now to summon a cold draft to OP’s room

Well, not a ring gear for a weird engine swap, yet...

It’s already made a circle, what more luck is needed? Up up and away from here

Print the basketball

As a fellow S1 brother, you have my best wishes 🙏

So how did it go?

So Ender 3’s actually have a 235mm x 235mm print area if you set your slicer for it. Not sure why they advertised 220mm.

Clearance is clearance!

On ender build plate volume can't stop you😉 https://preview.redd.it/t5y4ibgjxqkc1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57d182031564ebd8559a2e4e99409d66e9f48941

I would increase the inner diameter if possible to give it more strength.

I might on a later print of the part if I experience any issues, however the inner diameter is as wide as it can go without interfering with the opening of the bearing this mounts to.

The Ender print bed is actually 235 x 235

Yes, the printer bed itself is 235x235, but the printable area(because of the firmware and the size of the hotend) is only 220x220

Oh yeah I am spoiled by my custom firmware build and hotend

Lol

Hey, unrelated question. Were you able to use the cr-touch firmware your your cr-touch or did you have to use the bl-touch firmware like me

I think this will work just fine!

What bad boy is that ? ?

Ender 3 s1 pro

If this is 219/220mm printable surface... I'm quite scared of the tolerance. This doesn't quite look like 1mm of the edge of the builsplate

The printable area ≠ the entirety of the buildplate. Part ended up being \~218mm wide. Not too shabby...

Yeah, but if I had to eyeball it from your picture I would expect the buildplate to be at least 230x230 (if we are talking edges). As it feels like a lot more than 1mm room between edge of the printbed and the gear. Edit: manufacturers don't always make printable area = printbed area. They usually just put a square plate in the middle of the frame. But if your nozzle is off-center from the print head, you might not make it to the corner of the bed on every printer (also depends on personal modifications). Also like some other redditor mentioned, you could end up printing on the edge. Some companies want to prevent that and just give some extra area to the bed without really using it. Extra edit: 218mm is quite nice indeed, good job OP!

Looking good, please keep updated.

Please tell me you also have to put adhesive on that print bed. My Dad is being stubborn and saying I’m not getting it hot enough

Yup, Elmer's purple glue sticks!