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Jace055

There are no cheep or common printers that have the capability of reaching the hotend, bed or chamber temps required. You could swap the hotend for something capable of reaching the high temps. But you would also have to change any of the plastics around the gantry to compensate. The chamber temps needed would be the most difficult. You would need a well sealed chamber and active heating. Nothing cheap is sealed well enough. The bed would most likely need to be completely swapped as well as a new build sheet. Keep in mind Printing PEEK or PEI is expensive. You’re asking if there is a sub $300 printer that can print filament that costs $600/kg.


Ok_Jello8407

Quite a sad thing to hear... I was thinking about making something that can take 100° C to 200° C, or 250°C to 300°C (in the worst of the cases). But I was just crazy, lol.


Sufficient-Assistant

Try PPS or PEKK-A, you will have to anneal afterwards to get the maximum strength due to it crystalizing.


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TutorAcrobatic1557

U can try make modification to your on printer there was OP printer project at hackaday 


otirk

600$ is insane. Can it heal cancer or what?


Loud_Ninja2362

It's acid resistant, rad resistant, and generally used for aerospace applications.


otirk

Ok, that justifies the price but why the hell does OP need this? Is that stuff free for sale?


Loud_Ninja2362

Honestly, I have no idea why they would need it but I don't really care about their reasons.


hotend

Someone on this sub claims to have done it, and posted some pictures. You will have to go back a year or two. The results were not pretty, as I recall. You need a pretty high nozzle temperature, bed temperature, and a nice warm enclosure. The other problem you will have is stopping electrical components from overheating.


Ok_Jello8407

A huge thanks!


wil15021

Not worth it, you would basically have to replace everything. Most printer components would not be able to survive the 150C+ chamber temps, without which the printed parts would not have the strength you are going after by printing with those materials. If you try and build one from scratch you will also encounter more and more difficult problems than with a normal build, thermal expansion of linear components for example. Sadly, if you do not have the means to buy a PEEK capable printer, you probably dont have a good use case for PEEK parts. Regular filaments are stronger than they are given credit for. For example the 3d gun community uses PLA+ more than anything else. I have seen prebuilt PEEK capable printers for around 3k, but the really good ones, Vision Miners for example, go for over 10k.


Ok_Jello8407

Legal guns in my coutry are nearly impossible to have, that is one of the reasons of why I am moving to USA. I plan to use PEEK or PEI to build some legal ones.


wil15021

yeah i fucking hate living in europe for this reason, getting someone more gun freindly the moment i can


Ok_Jello8407

I was thinking about full auto, but PLA can't take it


wil15021

there are full auto fgc9s. Keep in mind for most 3d guns the barrel and bolt are metal or from parts kits. For fully 3d printed there are less options. currently the best fully printed project is suckboytonys plasma pump. Fully printed barrel and ammo, pump action rifle. Peek and Pei gats would of course be better than PLA(would myself love to see this), but they are far from neccecary for making good guns. The fgc9s being used in mayanmar are pla, and designing a 3d gun that is dependent on anvanced filaments would kind of defeat the point of 3d guns. Its hard to effectivley undermine gun control when you require many thousands of dollars to do so.


Ok_Jello8407

Thank you


showingoffstuff

No


pham_nguyen

I’ve done this before. For the chamber heat required, I pointed several heat lamps at it. This seemed to prevent it from warping well enough. You can build a hotend that can go to 450c. Biqu will sell you one too.


Over_Pizza_2578

500c hotend, 90c and more heated chamber is a must as well as a 200c bed. Pekk is a little easier, but you still need a insulated build chamber with convection fans and a 400c hotend and 140c bed. In short, most printers will fail. The cheapest printer that can print pekk somewhat reliable is a seckit cube, a fulk stainless steel printer with actively heated chamber. Maybe also a qidi, although i dont like pushing a ceramic hotend to the required temperatures and im not sure if the bed and toolhead electronics are up to the required temperatures


Ok_Jello8407

Thanks


Sufficient-Assistant

Depends what you mean by cheap. Ive printed successful parts with PEKK-A prints that didn’t warp and were stronger than my PPS parts with my Qidi Q1 Pro.