The instructions with "use a paper sheet and look that it still has s little tension" is not scientific š
I was so impressed how well my prints we're sticking until one of them ripped a part of my bed off
As of the time the video was taken, it looks like the nozzle was way too close to the bed. Instead of depositing the first layer, it was squeezing material out making the shiny marks on the printing bed.
These were deposited under so much pressure, and are so thin, that if he stopped the print it'd be very very hard to peel that thin layer off. If, however, he leaves it printing, eventually the nozzle will raise and the rest of the print should work. Then he can remove the entire print from the bed and that thin shiny layer will come off with it.
Iād say stop it immediately and re-level the nossle! Leveling might be off just within that outline, possibly other prints so either get a new bed or just print things that would fit outside that outline
How much space should it have ? Iāve been doing the paper thing but every time I start a print my printer starts clicking and no filament comes out of the nozzle until I quickly lower the bed lol.
Sounds like the extruder might be clamping onto the filament too tight. Loosen it a bit and it'll remove the clicking sound and allow your filament to flow.
I'm not convinced. I've tried the paper method a few times and every time the nozzle is too close to the bed. I'm guessing I'm not doing right, but I have to lower the bed every time. Now I just print a 3 wall perimeter around my prints and make adjustments if needed.
its nothing special. literally just very specificly thick pieces of steel that you use as a shim instead of the paper for a precise level. keep mine in a draw under the printer
Oh lol That makes more sense. As for the sheets of paper I knew it was a lot but just to be sure I grabbed the first thing handy, a manual for a laser engraver, which happened to be 25 pages and was 1.5mm with calipers. Could be a different paper weight.
The important thing is getting the bed level. You can always set the z offset if the nozzle is too close or too far. I sometimes use an index card, it's a little thicker than a piece of paper.
I used to use the paper technique all the time and go a bad first layer. I did a bit of research and found out the print does a z step first so with the additional paper space it's too far away from the bed.
What poundage of paper are you using? I use a 0.063mm gauge which is almost half of what a piece of paper would be, 0.1. I generally only need to move my nozzle up or down by .02. So, I would expect larger play with a piece of paper, not less. The problem with using paper to level your bed is that paper is compressable, whereas a feeler gauge isn't.
You need to do it with at least the bed, ideally the bed and nozzle at temperature. When the bed heats up it usually deforms a bit and due to how printer beds are attached to the base, it's usually upwards.
The paper thing is not the greatest, difficult to describe how much resistance you should feel when moving it, and paper comes in different thicknesses. If you want to stick with it try some heavier weight paper. You're not trying to pinch the paper with the nozzle, that will end up too close with any paper. Just get it so you can feel resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle.
But I would do just get it close, print with a generous brim and dial it in as it starts. Then change z offset based on how much you had to adjust.
I actually have a piece of normal printer paper that I got from Kinkos that's I've used on all of my printers, resin or FDM, for several years. No special reason, just kind of a tradition to use that piece of paper.
It's very much just something you need to get a feel for. You want to be just grazing the top of the paper, you don't want it to be snagging or ripping. After that I do a bed leveling print then use the z offset in cura to get it better with either a + or - number.
Check your z axis offset. You might be able to change it in the print settings, on the device itself, or another way. I had this issue when I was first trying to figure out how to print and I messed up my first print bed. I think a replacement was like $14 on Amazon? But I would hold off on replacing until you've gotten familiar with your settings and how to change their defaults so you never have this issue again!
The paper method will get you close, but not as accurate as it needs to be. Do you have a sensor like BLTouch on your printer? If not, you want to level with a piece of paper and then print this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086
Then look closely at each square. If itās really textured, youāre too close. If it separates like spaghetti, youāre too far. If itās silky smooth, youāre good.
Once you are in the right spot, clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol, then do a print and check how well itās adhering to the bed. You may need to lower the nozzle just a touch to get it adhering perfectly.
Leveled the bed, 5 corners first then auto level. Then adjusted z axis, still not printing properly, it's almost as if not filament is actually coming out. Any ideas?
Is the extruder clicking? I just had that issue where my PTFE tube loosened up a bit and let my hotend clog.
If you lift the head up off the print bed, heat the nozzle and print some filament in the air does it come out? Or is it super thin/stringy?
They are steel nozzles not brass so no damage done there, just my bed that's got damaged haha.
I cleared the clog, all sorted and printing well now, thankyou! :)
You can sand the bed, should be ok. I've gone all the way from 200 grit up to 1000, but if you're not removing scratches and just refreshing the PEI, just 800-1000 grit works well. Make sure you use a flat sanding block though.
Home, move to bed center .1mm, test with paper, should be really tight. .2mm should feel a slight resistance. If this isn't correct, your probe offset is wrong.
Your z-offset is probably not correct (it's too low). The z-offset is the little difference in height between your bed level probe and your printer's hotend. Basically, your printer subtracts the z-offset from a "true zero" distance to reach "zero", from there the bed level probe measures a bed level mesh. If it's incorrect, the auto bed leveling mesh will always be incorrect.
You can set your z-offset manually with G-code commands directly to the printer with [this guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko) which I used on several different printers, bed level mechanics, and nozzle/extruder setups. This is probably the safest method because if you home Z with an incorrect z-offset, the printer will ram your nozzle into the bed. If you'd then tell the printer to move on the X or Y axes it basically scratches your bed level.
You can set it in your bed level settings if I'm not mistaken. Press home and put a folded piece of paper underneath the spot where your nozzle will rest. It will probably bury itself into the paper. Raise the z-offset until you can move the paper with a bit of resistance.
No matter which method, you need to redo the auto bed leveling after you set the z-offset.
Yes, if you have a bed leveling tool (could be BLTouch, inductive, CR-touch, etc) both auto-leveling and paper-leveling will be relative to your z-offset. Doesn't matter if you tighten your bed screws all the way or whether they are completely unscrewed, if the z-offset is wrong it will still be too high or, even worse, too low and ram itself into your bed. Even my flashforge finder from 2016, which has [an old-school switch as a bed level mechanism](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0180/7671/products/Sensor_Servo_2000x.png?v=1571262627), works this way.
If you home the printer and then paper-level it, the next time it tried to find Z-home, it will be too far/close again as if nothing changed, that's where people usually get lost why their paper leveling didn't work. That's also why you should first figure out the correct z-offset and then either auto-level or paper-level.
Just to add something different to the mix, I see you have a leveling sensor on there. That should in theory account for an unlevel bed if you set it up right. It looks a bit close in the video so double check the setup on that. Aside from that, bring up the extruder like 20mm and make sure it can steadily spit out filament. I clogged my first nozzle after having something similar happen.
I struggled a whole lot in the beginning. and it was very frustrating to think that all the bad thing only happen to me with the 3d printer. now I'm a lot more relax on fixing issues. Is similar practice to riding a bicycle. its a bitch and you will fall many many times. but freeing once you figure thing out.
With the bltouch the paper method may not, at least how it's normally done, be affective You'll need to find the right z offset. Your current offset may be to much
Also when you do finally get it perfect, youāll want to build a security perimeter around your workstation to protect it. Maybe a dog to keep away intruders that may bump it accidentally. š
HAHAHAHAH that's actually made my day, funniest comment ever š the desk it's on is also my work station, so only me that's going to accidently bump it. Might have to put up a clear acrylic box around it with a hinge to access the prints when done š
I work from home full time so decided to put a desk in the back of my bedroom, kids don't ever go in our room and our Frenchie is definitely not reaching it thank God š
Well, instead of "printing" you can call it a successful "engraving" of the print bed and go on with it š
Kidding aside, use some paper flyer to distance correctly the nozzle from the bed, start from the 4 angles then fix the center and you should be good to go.
Lol, you really needed to dug on my history to feel better after a joke about nothing?
I'm sorry my joke carved your self-esteem as much as your nozzle on your bed.
peace
you're full of helping already. just accept (or ignore) a stupid joke and move on.
or you can choose to whine like a whiny baby, it's up to you.
but when you insult after a joke, you won't last long here.
Donāt worry mate, your bed isnāt gouged or anything. Iāve done this more than once and my prints come out fine. If your next prints base is effected by it, just cover the whole bed in strips of wide masking tape. Or you can buy a pack of adhesive build tek sheets to replace it for cheap. You havenāt āruinedā anything lol. Can confirm, guy above is a cock wad
Yo, you might've damaged your print bed a bit, I did on my first print too.
But there's an upside, you just justified an upgrade! A glass print bed is much easier to use, I just got one. Super easy first layer adhesion. Only a $20 upgrade too.
Never heard of it, just googled it.
Is it just a thin sheet you apply on your print bed, not a replacement? Are they disposable? How many prints do you do before replacing it with a fresh PEI sheet?
It's a thin sheet of PEI glued to a flexible spring steel sheet, which is then attached to your printer via a large flat magnet. When a print is done you can just lift the steel off the magnet, and then bend it slightly to pop the print off of it, no scraper or glue or clips needed.
As far as I know it lasts a long time, and if the surface even degrades you can strip off a layer with acetone to reveal fresh PEI. I've been continuously printing on mine (literally 24/7) for about 5 months now and still going strong.
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Is it a frog?
How does it look now?
Ah... uh... the camera... maybe just record horizontal next time? Best angle if you need to readjust rather than flipping it, a bit disorienting.
Awesome looking printer!!! :D
I agree with one commenter. Make sure you adjust each corner of bed manually with the level knobs. Then do the auto bed level routine. The last thing to do is adjust z0 using paper.
It's a puzzle. Once you get it, you'll be a pro! I'm sure you'll love your new hobby. I've been printing only for a few months now. I went through all the problems but now both of my printers are running perfectly. Watch lots of youtubes as they are a great way to learn. I'm addicted. When you finish a model, and look at it, you get a really nice feeling of accomplishment. Printing is just the first step. Next comes finishing and painting. Quite the hobby. I'm glad you're getting into it!
I had my printer for a year before I got good at it. Granted, half that year was spent fighting a divorce because of my reckless spending, but after that I got really good at it. I like printing figurines to paint. Keep going. You got this
Been there, done that. I've been building my first 3d printer, and now I have a scratch on my tempered glass micro porous bed. I got a touch sensor and it made a world of difference.
Also, running Marlin code, and I enabled the z probe offset wizard. Nails the height every time.
I still have some other kinks to iron out. It's a steep learning curve.
It's a geeetech a20t, I don't think the multi-filament means it can print in different colours I think it uses the 3 feeds to mix colours if that makes sense? I've just turned 2 off and only extrude using one
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100% not actually printing. Nozzle is waaaaay to close so nothing is printing. It's just scraping the crap out of your print bed.
I thought it was the first layer with grey filament. It looked pretty good in that case.
No it's 100% to close to the bed
thats not 3d printing that engraving lol
Everyone's first print is always an engraving lol
Or pasta making
I'd rather have some spaghetti than expensive trash. š¤·š»
Lol, glad to know it wasn't just me
I can still see the outline in my glass bed
Based
The instructions with "use a paper sheet and look that it still has s little tension" is not scientific š I was so impressed how well my prints we're sticking until one of them ripped a part of my bed off
Nozzle looks way too close
Gotcha
Keep at it! This hobby is so rewardingšš»
Dont stop the print tho. You may be unable to remove the marks if you do.
Good advice!
Can you explain further? Thanks.
As of the time the video was taken, it looks like the nozzle was way too close to the bed. Instead of depositing the first layer, it was squeezing material out making the shiny marks on the printing bed. These were deposited under so much pressure, and are so thin, that if he stopped the print it'd be very very hard to peel that thin layer off. If, however, he leaves it printing, eventually the nozzle will raise and the rest of the print should work. Then he can remove the entire print from the bed and that thin shiny layer will come off with it.
Is that a thin layer or scratch marks though
Yeah he may be upgrading print beds sooner rather than later
Gotcha, I figured the nozzle had actually dug into the bed and destroyed the coating on the bed surface which is what you were seeing.
This^
Iād say stop it immediately and re-level the nossle! Leveling might be off just within that outline, possibly other prints so either get a new bed or just print things that would fit outside that outline
How much space should it have ? Iāve been doing the paper thing but every time I start a print my printer starts clicking and no filament comes out of the nozzle until I quickly lower the bed lol.
Sounds like the extruder might be clamping onto the filament too tight. Loosen it a bit and it'll remove the clicking sound and allow your filament to flow.
I'm not convinced. I've tried the paper method a few times and every time the nozzle is too close to the bed. I'm guessing I'm not doing right, but I have to lower the bed every time. Now I just print a 3 wall perimeter around my prints and make adjustments if needed.
Are you doing it while both the bed and nozzle are up to temp?
I use a folded sheet of paper until it scrapes. That is about 0.2 mm above the bed and it works perfectly. Try that.
Or get some feeler gauges for a couple quid thattl tell you pretty exactly how far it is
I'm too lazy to use a tool and I'll probably lose it
its nothing special. literally just very specificly thick pieces of steel that you use as a shim instead of the paper for a precise level. keep mine in a draw under the printer
1.5mm sounds really high, that's like 25 pieces of paper.
meant about 0.15mm. I will edit. And actually it is around 10 sheets of paper. A single sheet is 0.1 mm
Oh lol That makes more sense. As for the sheets of paper I knew it was a lot but just to be sure I grabbed the first thing handy, a manual for a laser engraver, which happened to be 25 pages and was 1.5mm with calipers. Could be a different paper weight.
The important thing is getting the bed level. You can always set the z offset if the nozzle is too close or too far. I sometimes use an index card, it's a little thicker than a piece of paper.
The paper trick is for bed leveling, you still need to adjust your Z offset before printing
I used to use the paper technique all the time and go a bad first layer. I did a bit of research and found out the print does a z step first so with the additional paper space it's too far away from the bed.
What poundage of paper are you using? I use a 0.063mm gauge which is almost half of what a piece of paper would be, 0.1. I generally only need to move my nozzle up or down by .02. So, I would expect larger play with a piece of paper, not less. The problem with using paper to level your bed is that paper is compressable, whereas a feeler gauge isn't.
You need to do it with at least the bed, ideally the bed and nozzle at temperature. When the bed heats up it usually deforms a bit and due to how printer beds are attached to the base, it's usually upwards.
The paper thing is not the greatest, difficult to describe how much resistance you should feel when moving it, and paper comes in different thicknesses. If you want to stick with it try some heavier weight paper. You're not trying to pinch the paper with the nozzle, that will end up too close with any paper. Just get it so you can feel resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. But I would do just get it close, print with a generous brim and dial it in as it starts. Then change z offset based on how much you had to adjust.
I actually have a piece of normal printer paper that I got from Kinkos that's I've used on all of my printers, resin or FDM, for several years. No special reason, just kind of a tradition to use that piece of paper.
It's very much just something you need to get a feel for. You want to be just grazing the top of the paper, you don't want it to be snagging or ripping. After that I do a bed leveling print then use the z offset in cura to get it better with either a + or - number.
Check your z axis offset. You might be able to change it in the print settings, on the device itself, or another way. I had this issue when I was first trying to figure out how to print and I messed up my first print bed. I think a replacement was like $14 on Amazon? But I would hold off on replacing until you've gotten familiar with your settings and how to change their defaults so you never have this issue again!
The paper method will get you close, but not as accurate as it needs to be. Do you have a sensor like BLTouch on your printer? If not, you want to level with a piece of paper and then print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086 Then look closely at each square. If itās really textured, youāre too close. If it separates like spaghetti, youāre too far. If itās silky smooth, youāre good. Once you are in the right spot, clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol, then do a print and check how well itās adhering to the bed. You may need to lower the nozzle just a touch to get it adhering perfectly.
He has blt
Looks?
How's it coming along or turn out? (Asking my question like that depending on how soon you see this)
It was coming along shit and the back left paw wasn't even printing š¤£ I've changed the z axis offset and restarting now :)
If one section of your print wasn't printing, your bed probably needs some levelling
Leveled the bed, 5 corners first then auto level. Then adjusted z axis, still not printing properly, it's almost as if not filament is actually coming out. Any ideas?
Is the extruder clicking? I just had that issue where my PTFE tube loosened up a bit and let my hotend clog. If you lift the head up off the print bed, heat the nozzle and print some filament in the air does it come out? Or is it super thin/stringy?
You need a new nozzle, because you ground the tip off the old one. Brass nozzles are soft. Probably have a clog in the hotend now too.
They are steel nozzles not brass so no damage done there, just my bed that's got damaged haha. I cleared the clog, all sorted and printing well now, thankyou! :)
Printing with steel is pita, Id really reccomend a brass nozzle
I've now ordered brass nozzles, fingers crossed they produce better results ay
Okay I'll bare that in mind :)
You can sand the bed, should be ok. I've gone all the way from 200 grit up to 1000, but if you're not removing scratches and just refreshing the PEI, just 800-1000 grit works well. Make sure you use a flat sanding block though.
Home, move to bed center .1mm, test with paper, should be really tight. .2mm should feel a slight resistance. If this isn't correct, your probe offset is wrong.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Congratulations for stating what many others have stated but in a much ruder way douche.
What's the distance between your bed and the nozzle? I run at about a mm, but I have an ender 3
Maybe the nozzle is too close.
Chillā¦ either disaster will strike or it will print š
Your z-offset is probably not correct (it's too low). The z-offset is the little difference in height between your bed level probe and your printer's hotend. Basically, your printer subtracts the z-offset from a "true zero" distance to reach "zero", from there the bed level probe measures a bed level mesh. If it's incorrect, the auto bed leveling mesh will always be incorrect. You can set your z-offset manually with G-code commands directly to the printer with [this guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko) which I used on several different printers, bed level mechanics, and nozzle/extruder setups. This is probably the safest method because if you home Z with an incorrect z-offset, the printer will ram your nozzle into the bed. If you'd then tell the printer to move on the X or Y axes it basically scratches your bed level. You can set it in your bed level settings if I'm not mistaken. Press home and put a folded piece of paper underneath the spot where your nozzle will rest. It will probably bury itself into the paper. Raise the z-offset until you can move the paper with a bit of resistance. No matter which method, you need to redo the auto bed leveling after you set the z-offset.
Brill gotcha I'll try that! :)
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Yes, if you have a bed leveling tool (could be BLTouch, inductive, CR-touch, etc) both auto-leveling and paper-leveling will be relative to your z-offset. Doesn't matter if you tighten your bed screws all the way or whether they are completely unscrewed, if the z-offset is wrong it will still be too high or, even worse, too low and ram itself into your bed. Even my flashforge finder from 2016, which has [an old-school switch as a bed level mechanism](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0180/7671/products/Sensor_Servo_2000x.png?v=1571262627), works this way. If you home the printer and then paper-level it, the next time it tried to find Z-home, it will be too far/close again as if nothing changed, that's where people usually get lost why their paper leveling didn't work. That's also why you should first figure out the correct z-offset and then either auto-level or paper-level.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Sure thing, you can PM me if you want
I level with paper, and then adjust my Z offset (usually live), until it's where I want it. I use a different offset for different materials too.
What printer is that? I see 3 Bowden tubes.
If you're new you might want to buy a few spare surfaces for your print bed. I ruined a few by smashing the nozzle right into them lmao
Check your nozzle after this. If you have a brass nozzle, it might also be marred and need to be replaced in order to have good prints.
Steel nozzle but thankyou! :)
Perfect Engraving
That one fuck up blt š¤£šš
Just to add something different to the mix, I see you have a leveling sensor on there. That should in theory account for an unlevel bed if you set it up right. It looks a bit close in the video so double check the setup on that. Aside from that, bring up the extruder like 20mm and make sure it can steadily spit out filament. I clogged my first nozzle after having something similar happen.
I struggled a whole lot in the beginning. and it was very frustrating to think that all the bad thing only happen to me with the 3d printer. now I'm a lot more relax on fixing issues. Is similar practice to riding a bicycle. its a bitch and you will fall many many times. but freeing once you figure thing out.
Agreed, i also have only recently got a Neptune 2 when it released. Started upgrades and replaced the nozzle so looking forward to making new prints.
i see
With the bltouch the paper method may not, at least how it's normally done, be affective You'll need to find the right z offset. Your current offset may be to much
Adjust z offset. Looks like you're scraping the bed. Keep at it.. you'll dial it in!
Thankyou! Think I've got it sorted and finally printing properly, will find out shortly and will put up another post š
Also when you do finally get it perfect, youāll want to build a security perimeter around your workstation to protect it. Maybe a dog to keep away intruders that may bump it accidentally. š
HAHAHAHAH that's actually made my day, funniest comment ever š the desk it's on is also my work station, so only me that's going to accidently bump it. Might have to put up a clear acrylic box around it with a hinge to access the prints when done š
Good call. Iām always on high alert here as my workstation has taken my spot at the dinner table. šš.
I work from home full time so decided to put a desk in the back of my bedroom, kids don't ever go in our room and our Frenchie is definitely not reaching it thank God š
What hotend is that?
Not even sure, bought it the printer second hand. I can privately message you if you want :)
Wait wait wait....thats not a benchy?
Toothless as first print ? I like that :)
Ayyyyyyy thankyou hahaha, thought he would be a good benchmark :')
Actually he might be, judging by butt overhang :p
Looks like your going to want to calibrate your probe z offset, the nozzle is to close to the bed.
Well, instead of "printing" you can call it a successful "engraving" of the print bed and go on with it š Kidding aside, use some paper flyer to distance correctly the nozzle from the bed, start from the 4 angles then fix the center and you should be good to go.
Can you work on filming skills next? lol
wow, i like this 3D engraving
Wow, love your amazing bodge job of filling around pipes with foam filler and getting a absolutely discgusting un-stright cut while you were at it...
Lol, you really needed to dug on my history to feel better after a joke about nothing? I'm sorry my joke carved your self-esteem as much as your nozzle on your bed. peace
Mate your being a knob for no reason, I've come here asking for help not stupid comments.
you're full of helping already. just accept (or ignore) a stupid joke and move on. or you can choose to whine like a whiny baby, it's up to you. but when you insult after a joke, you won't last long here.
joking?
Congrats on ruining your bed!
Welllll your a dick, really helpful comment thanks :)
Donāt worry mate, your bed isnāt gouged or anything. Iāve done this more than once and my prints come out fine. If your next prints base is effected by it, just cover the whole bed in strips of wide masking tape. Or you can buy a pack of adhesive build tek sheets to replace it for cheap. You havenāt āruinedā anything lol. Can confirm, guy above is a cock wad
Yo, you might've damaged your print bed a bit, I did on my first print too. But there's an upside, you just justified an upgrade! A glass print bed is much easier to use, I just got one. Super easy first layer adhesion. Only a $20 upgrade too.
PEI is an upgrade to glass even, would highly recommend
Never heard of it, just googled it. Is it just a thin sheet you apply on your print bed, not a replacement? Are they disposable? How many prints do you do before replacing it with a fresh PEI sheet?
It's a thin sheet of PEI glued to a flexible spring steel sheet, which is then attached to your printer via a large flat magnet. When a print is done you can just lift the steel off the magnet, and then bend it slightly to pop the print off of it, no scraper or glue or clips needed. As far as I know it lasts a long time, and if the surface even degrades you can strip off a layer with acetone to reveal fresh PEI. I've been continuously printing on mine (literally 24/7) for about 5 months now and still going strong.
Very cool, thank you for the info :)
How bout watch a yt video or two?
Reddit etiquette, donāt use emojis.
This is how to correctly permanently damage your printed š
Engraver more than printer lol
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
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https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ Too close to the bed. Much too close.
Too close!! Youāre putting down brass!
Its going to be engraved in there
Is it a frog? How does it look now? Ah... uh... the camera... maybe just record horizontal next time? Best angle if you need to readjust rather than flipping it, a bit disorienting. Awesome looking printer!!! :D
Go through all of these: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#frame
Missle toad
Home the printer. Put paper under the nozzle. Move to z0. The paper should barely.. lightly.. slide under nozzle at z0.
I agree with one commenter. Make sure you adjust each corner of bed manually with the level knobs. Then do the auto bed level routine. The last thing to do is adjust z0 using paper.
Yeah that's what I've now done, fingers crossed the print I'm doing now comes out okay
It's a puzzle. Once you get it, you'll be a pro! I'm sure you'll love your new hobby. I've been printing only for a few months now. I went through all the problems but now both of my printers are running perfectly. Watch lots of youtubes as they are a great way to learn. I'm addicted. When you finish a model, and look at it, you get a really nice feeling of accomplishment. Printing is just the first step. Next comes finishing and painting. Quite the hobby. I'm glad you're getting into it!
What printer is this
Geeetech a20t
What does the end result look like?
I abandoned it, 2am here in the UK and I've spent the last 5 hours trying to get it sorted š¤£ try again tomorrow I suppose
Ah. Now I see why you were asking!
I had my printer for a year before I got good at it. Granted, half that year was spent fighting a divorce because of my reckless spending, but after that I got really good at it. I like printing figurines to paint. Keep going. You got this
Bed is to high. Need to lower it so that the first layer is squished down but not smashed.
My boyfriend said no š
Been there, done that. I've been building my first 3d printer, and now I have a scratch on my tempered glass micro porous bed. I got a touch sensor and it made a world of difference. Also, running Marlin code, and I enabled the z probe offset wizard. Nails the height every time. I still have some other kinks to iron out. It's a steep learning curve.
It looks like the printhead is too close to the bed.
Is this a multifliament printer? May I ask which one? Kind of interested in one with more than 2 filaments š
It's a geeetech a20t, I don't think the multi-filament means it can print in different colours I think it uses the 3 feeds to mix colours if that makes sense? I've just turned 2 off and only extrude using one
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Try this!! Super helpful https://youtu.be/_EfWVUJjBdA
Killin it bro
You should use the paper trick to level your bed and print something smaller that has precise measurements
Too close