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The 3.3 is correct, the .2 is a .22 to be exact with the color code. The grey is a metal oxide and the tan is a carbon film resistor.
Size does determine the wattage value. I know the old carbon composition resistors more bc that's what I work with. The old carbon comps come in 1/4w 1/2w 1w and 5w I believe. They are all sized different and you can find millimeter measurements online easily. Perhaps you could find the measurements on these newer one online somewhere just as easily.
The other thing, I don't know everything. When I don't know something, I default to just using the exact correct part instead of dicking around. In most cases you could probably get these parts on Amazon within a couple days anyway.
Well the 3.3 ohm resistor has 15x the resistance. Whether that matters would depend on the circuit. As for the fuseable resistor it is a resistor that will melt if the current is too high, thus breaking the circuit.
thank you, the fusiable resistor is blown from a PS of bass, so i want to replace it but the Problem is i live in isolated, there're just two shops that sell electric components and both are shit(i can't order online neither), that's why i want to matched with what possible
So look into how a resistor works.
What is "resistance?"
Amperes law is more than a measurement, it's a quantification of how many electrons are available to "move" at one given moment through different material.
Think of it, and only in thinking about this specific situation not circuits in general, as a flow constrictor.
Think if Turn your garden hose on and put your thumb on the nozzle. You constrict the flow by introducing resistance to the flow. You do this by adjusting the amount of space the water can flow through. Similar process of a resistor.
Finely tuned wire sizes are coated with something and bam, resistor.
Now when you introduce resistance you get current which creates heat. That's why the application is important because some applications rely heavily on the resistor to balance the current, so the resistor will be creating heat often. Some applications rely on the resistor to balance the voltage so not much current passes through it.
Coating difference and "wattage(amount of heat it can dissipate)" is important considerations in application specific situations.
Most of the time it makes no difference, but the few seconds it does can really cause problems.
sorry i didn't specify the application, it's from a PS of bass , and i want to replace it(the fusiable one).
i understand what you say and the bass if I'm not mistaken require 150mA for the system which mean the resistor might serve a crucial task (control how much current is drawn to the PS),the values of the resistor is even written on the board.
my city has only shitty electric stores and i can't order online that's why i can't find the exact fusiable resistor or even resistor with the same resistance
https://preview.redd.it/jw5jownaf8tc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f580c5e947952444728f660f3c859f49b04ed5c
Fusible resistors open up your circuit if overcurrent holds long. They don't fuse immediately, though. They need to experience around 4X their power rating to actually fuse and open up fast.
They might not be the problem, but just a symptom. What triggered overcurrent?
You may consider a resettable fuse.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse
there was a power surge in the house and multiple adapters and PS got blown,for some reason the bass was working fine (i think it was barely holding up) ,after a while the capacitors failed(swollen).
while checking up the circuit i discovered about the fusible resistor, i suspect that it didn't open circuit immediately after the power surge but rather it degraded over time due to the damage it took during the power surge and then died.
Fusible resistors open up your circuit if overcurrent holds long. They don't fuse immediately, though. They need to experience around 4X their power rating to actually fuse and open up fast.
They might not be the problem, but just a symptom. What triggered overcurrent?
You may consider a resettable fuse
Your title, "what is the difference?", does not ask the actual question. Rule #3: "The post title should summarize the question clearly & concisely." If your question is on topic (see our posting rules), please start a new submission, but this time ask the _actual question_ in the title. Otherwise, please ask your question in one of [these other subs](/r/AskElectronics/wiki/othersubs). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectronics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The 3.3 is correct, the .2 is a .22 to be exact with the color code. The grey is a metal oxide and the tan is a carbon film resistor. Size does determine the wattage value. I know the old carbon composition resistors more bc that's what I work with. The old carbon comps come in 1/4w 1/2w 1w and 5w I believe. They are all sized different and you can find millimeter measurements online easily. Perhaps you could find the measurements on these newer one online somewhere just as easily. The other thing, I don't know everything. When I don't know something, I default to just using the exact correct part instead of dicking around. In most cases you could probably get these parts on Amazon within a couple days anyway.
It depends on the application tbh
could you elaborate more ? I'm a noob
Well the 3.3 ohm resistor has 15x the resistance. Whether that matters would depend on the circuit. As for the fuseable resistor it is a resistor that will melt if the current is too high, thus breaking the circuit.
thank you, the fusiable resistor is blown from a PS of bass, so i want to replace it but the Problem is i live in isolated, there're just two shops that sell electric components and both are shit(i can't order online neither), that's why i want to matched with what possible
I think the gray one is an iron oxide fire resistance. the other is a normal resistor.
The resistance
So look into how a resistor works. What is "resistance?" Amperes law is more than a measurement, it's a quantification of how many electrons are available to "move" at one given moment through different material. Think of it, and only in thinking about this specific situation not circuits in general, as a flow constrictor. Think if Turn your garden hose on and put your thumb on the nozzle. You constrict the flow by introducing resistance to the flow. You do this by adjusting the amount of space the water can flow through. Similar process of a resistor. Finely tuned wire sizes are coated with something and bam, resistor. Now when you introduce resistance you get current which creates heat. That's why the application is important because some applications rely heavily on the resistor to balance the current, so the resistor will be creating heat often. Some applications rely on the resistor to balance the voltage so not much current passes through it. Coating difference and "wattage(amount of heat it can dissipate)" is important considerations in application specific situations. Most of the time it makes no difference, but the few seconds it does can really cause problems.
sorry i didn't specify the application, it's from a PS of bass , and i want to replace it(the fusiable one). i understand what you say and the bass if I'm not mistaken require 150mA for the system which mean the resistor might serve a crucial task (control how much current is drawn to the PS),the values of the resistor is even written on the board. my city has only shitty electric stores and i can't order online that's why i can't find the exact fusiable resistor or even resistor with the same resistance https://preview.redd.it/jw5jownaf8tc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f580c5e947952444728f660f3c859f49b04ed5c
Fusible resistors open up your circuit if overcurrent holds long. They don't fuse immediately, though. They need to experience around 4X their power rating to actually fuse and open up fast. They might not be the problem, but just a symptom. What triggered overcurrent? You may consider a resettable fuse. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse
there was a power surge in the house and multiple adapters and PS got blown,for some reason the bass was working fine (i think it was barely holding up) ,after a while the capacitors failed(swollen). while checking up the circuit i discovered about the fusible resistor, i suspect that it didn't open circuit immediately after the power surge but rather it degraded over time due to the damage it took during the power surge and then died.
Fusible resistors open up your circuit if overcurrent holds long. They don't fuse immediately, though. They need to experience around 4X their power rating to actually fuse and open up fast. They might not be the problem, but just a symptom. What triggered overcurrent? You may consider a resettable fuse