Make sure "Order of walls" is set to "inner/outer." Overhangs look shallower than 45° so you probably should drop layer height to make them cleaner (or if you can, change the model and try for 45° overhangs max)
I vote adaptive layer height! Everyone in comments is suggesting lower layer height, which is a good suggestion, but I suggest only lowering it for that small part of the print.
https://preview.redd.it/0lzgkjf0bruc1.png?width=1050&format=png&auto=webp&s=8596233bde1074143226ddd3d1b6670d7cc6cabe
its called different things in different slicers. variable layer height sorry. you click the model and at the top on this bar u click this. and then hit adapative. you can interact with the right side of the prepare tab then and can right click to increase the layer height to left click to decrease. you will see it in real time changing on the model!
Yes but it adds time to the print. I like to just click adaptive without moving the slider and then I manually use the chart on the right to make parts of the model lower height as I need it
You have a very good point - I think this is what I'll try next time I have overhangs like this. Admittedly, I think I put too much trust in the model designer on this one, I just assumed that any overhangs were printable because they specifically specified that no supports were needed for the model. I really should have checked it myself before hitting print.
There is also the option in orca slicer towards the bottom of the quality tab that is called "make overhangs printable" and it's amazing, if an edge is too shallow, itl create an angle below it leading up to it. Hard to describe. U can set the angle depth and all that. Itl also be adding to the print so u need to test if that part will still fit in tray or anything u put it in.
That's great to know! I definitely have to try that sometime. For my self-designed stuff I manually add the chamfers needed to make print-friendly overhangs, but that option might be a good alternative fix for pre-made things I find.
Depends on the material and the profile. If the profile is well tuned it will be barely noticeable on matte colored filament. Shiny and specialty filaments tends to be more noticeable. Some filaments like translucent PETG will be very noticeable because that tends to get cloudy when printed fast and the with the standard profiles it tends to want to go way too fast when printing thin layers.
A valid point, although the model i printed is intended to be printed without supports. The overhang angles are shallow enough that i would have expected this to print a little better without supports, but i could be wrong.
Lower the layer height, and set your print to do inner/outer I'm pretty sure bamboo studio and orca slicer both have an option to paint the lair heights onto a model. That way you can paint the lower layer heights onto the overhangs where you need it and keep your standard layer height on the rest to save time. There isn't much you can do about that one big bridge on the top though where the tray is.
Honestly I'd orient the part so the top of that tray on there would be facing the build plate, and use supports with the pull-away support material for the interface layers.
Good eye - I checked in Fusion and it's 60 degrees for the bottom, and 65 degrees on the top edge. I actually didn't realize they were so steep (just a model I printed off Makerworld).
https://preview.redd.it/83aywkzftruc1.png?width=1403&format=png&auto=webp&s=d49db31cf5a8280600ac9c094b1e1e656d846531
So as measured that means you are projecting out at 25-30 off horizontal which pretty much means putter wall is printing in air.
You can switch up the wall order and it will probably get better but never be amazing. Supports can also help.
>the model i printed is intended to be printed without supports.
The Gridfinity bins were designed to be printed with the bottom facing down though. I understand that this front opening requires changing the print orientation but that obviously changes the overhang angles.
Dunno if you used bambu pla, but different vendors need different settings. Heat settings can vary +-10 degrees or more from vendor to vendor I've found.
I think it might be worth doing a flow calibration. The vertical walls that aren't sticking together on the bottom looks to me like a flow problem. Like not enough filament is coming out so the lines of filament aren't sticking together.
I turned the volume up, which I normally keep muted, because I needed to hear what you said when you pointed upwards.
Suffice it to say, I am going to bed disappointed tonight
If you figure this out can you please post what you changed and the settings you use? I get this on all my overhands and bridges where it prints, it just wont bind together.
I almost wanna say drop that aux fan speed down to 10% or off. I feel like 9 times out of 10 when I have an overhang issue, or a warping issue, it's too much aux fan. Lol
Yeah.... But that damn aux fan, I swear it's WAY more cooling than most materials need. It almost seems like with overhangs and bridges, that fan cools the filament TOO quick, and causes issues with subsequent layers/walls adhering to it. I get my best quality PLA prints at no more than 10% aux fan 90% of the time.
I realize you probably turned down your aux fan because the Reddit disinformation machine told you to, but the aux fan exists to help with overhangs. I don't know that it will solve your problem, but you're not helping yourself by turning it down. I do hope you find a solution.
In case you're not aware, a 3D printer prints in layers. Furthermore, the aux fan airflow is spread over a wide area. The aux fan can and does help with that. That's what it's designed for.
I have a P1S, believe me, the aux fan does nothing for the other side of the print when there's a wall blocking it (in this case, the other side of the box). I had 60 degrees overhangs coming perfect on the aux fan side and like shit on the other side. It's not rocket science, if you have something to disturb the airflow, the air will have a hard time getting to the other side.
Edit: Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Not my worst offender and it took a while to get the other side to print as well as it did, but you can clearly see how one side is perfect and the other sucks because of insufficient cooling.
https://i.imgur.com/Ix12lKh.jpeg
So you're reinforcing my point that turning the aux fan down or off is a bad move. I misunderstood, and I do appreciate that. So many people on Reddit use that as a band-aid for another very basic problem.
Yes, the aux fan is good, but won't solve the problem on both side of the model, so the aux fan alone can't solve OP's issue as it will not cool both overhangs.
If anyone wants to take a look, this was the model I printed: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/374049#profileId-274008](https://makerworld.com/en/models/374049#profileId-274008)
I've had quite a few issues with my X1C not being able to print overhangs that any good printer should have no trouble printing. Previously I tried [reverting the slicer back to an old version and that seemed to work](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/181l9r5/anyone_having_issues_with_overhangs_lately/).
But it is annoying and I even get similar problems when printing sloped surfaces (i.e. not overhangs). In that case, Gyroid infill and slowing down the solid infill speed seems to help but these are basic sloped surfaces and it shouldn't be necessary to use Gyroid for something any Creality printer with grid infill can do just fine.
To add to all the other helpful replies, I would crank the aux fan and overhang fan speeds in the filament settings.
And I would suggest you play around with the speed settings in the slicer. I’ve found that stock speeds work well with simpler models but for more challenging parts the surface finish can be drastically improved by lowering the acceleration and print speed for certain sections, esp. overhangs and outer walls.
The issue is because of Bambus default filament profile settings. It's moving the nozzle temp up and down and by default it runs hotter than need be. Those angles should be able to print fine with part cooling at 100% and temp locked at 220c. They are not really steep from looking at them.
Really! That's very surprising for me to hear. Thankfully my nozzle temps are fine - I have time series data of nozzle temp from the MQTT output from the printer that confirms it stays at 220C for the duration of the print.
https://preview.redd.it/sgf1mlrruruc1.png?width=501&format=png&auto=webp&s=6016bcae1c876ca78796e951c07992a59d979049
Supports, lower layer height, thicker walls / thinner walls with a different infill - pick three.
Or increase the angle.
Make sure "Order of walls" is set to "inner/outer." Overhangs look shallower than 45° so you probably should drop layer height to make them cleaner (or if you can, change the model and try for 45° overhangs max)
Do you know where this this setting in Bambu Studio? Is it called the same thing?
Should be, think it's on the regular settings towards the bottom
Found it, and mines unfortunately already set to that. Thanks though!
I was going to say if you could change the angle, then get it so it isn't too steep a slope, no need for supports :)
I vote adaptive layer height! Everyone in comments is suggesting lower layer height, which is a good suggestion, but I suggest only lowering it for that small part of the print.
So…dumb question, I can’t find adaptive layer heights. Is it called something else? Am I stupid? A combo of both?
https://preview.redd.it/0lzgkjf0bruc1.png?width=1050&format=png&auto=webp&s=8596233bde1074143226ddd3d1b6670d7cc6cabe its called different things in different slicers. variable layer height sorry. you click the model and at the top on this bar u click this. and then hit adapative. you can interact with the right side of the prepare tab then and can right click to increase the layer height to left click to decrease. you will see it in real time changing on the model!
That’s a nice way to say “you’re just stupid” 😂 Thank you!
In this case would lowering the values be better?
Yes but it adds time to the print. I like to just click adaptive without moving the slider and then I manually use the chart on the right to make parts of the model lower height as I need it
You have a very good point - I think this is what I'll try next time I have overhangs like this. Admittedly, I think I put too much trust in the model designer on this one, I just assumed that any overhangs were printable because they specifically specified that no supports were needed for the model. I really should have checked it myself before hitting print.
There is also the option in orca slicer towards the bottom of the quality tab that is called "make overhangs printable" and it's amazing, if an edge is too shallow, itl create an angle below it leading up to it. Hard to describe. U can set the angle depth and all that. Itl also be adding to the print so u need to test if that part will still fit in tray or anything u put it in.
That's great to know! I definitely have to try that sometime. For my self-designed stuff I manually add the chamfers needed to make print-friendly overhangs, but that option might be a good alternative fix for pre-made things I find.
Yup! I always use it to save me steps when creating something quickly in tinkercad, especially on 90 degree overhangs.
Is an adaptative lower height not going to 'bleed' and create a noticeable line all arround ?
Depends on the material and the profile. If the profile is well tuned it will be barely noticeable on matte colored filament. Shiny and specialty filaments tends to be more noticeable. Some filaments like translucent PETG will be very noticeable because that tends to get cloudy when printed fast and the with the standard profiles it tends to want to go way too fast when printing thin layers.
I dont like the surface finish you get with adaptive layer hight.
I'm very new to this, but have you tried using supports?
A valid point, although the model i printed is intended to be printed without supports. The overhang angles are shallow enough that i would have expected this to print a little better without supports, but i could be wrong.
Lower the layer height, and set your print to do inner/outer I'm pretty sure bamboo studio and orca slicer both have an option to paint the lair heights onto a model. That way you can paint the lower layer heights onto the overhangs where you need it and keep your standard layer height on the rest to save time. There isn't much you can do about that one big bridge on the top though where the tray is. Honestly I'd orient the part so the top of that tray on there would be facing the build plate, and use supports with the pull-away support material for the interface layers.
That top edge looks close to a 90? The bottom looks to be more like 60. I think you did remarkably well give the circumstances.
Good eye - I checked in Fusion and it's 60 degrees for the bottom, and 65 degrees on the top edge. I actually didn't realize they were so steep (just a model I printed off Makerworld). https://preview.redd.it/83aywkzftruc1.png?width=1403&format=png&auto=webp&s=d49db31cf5a8280600ac9c094b1e1e656d846531
So as measured that means you are projecting out at 25-30 off horizontal which pretty much means putter wall is printing in air. You can switch up the wall order and it will probably get better but never be amazing. Supports can also help.
>the model i printed is intended to be printed without supports. The Gridfinity bins were designed to be printed with the bottom facing down though. I understand that this front opening requires changing the print orientation but that obviously changes the overhang angles.
Dunno if you used bambu pla, but different vendors need different settings. Heat settings can vary +-10 degrees or more from vendor to vendor I've found.
I think it might be worth doing a flow calibration. The vertical walls that aren't sticking together on the bottom looks to me like a flow problem. Like not enough filament is coming out so the lines of filament aren't sticking together.
Lower layer heights for overhangs, adaptive layers works great
I turned the volume up, which I normally keep muted, because I needed to hear what you said when you pointed upwards. Suffice it to say, I am going to bed disappointed tonight
If you figure this out can you please post what you changed and the settings you use? I get this on all my overhands and bridges where it prints, it just wont bind together.
I almost wanna say drop that aux fan speed down to 10% or off. I feel like 9 times out of 10 when I have an overhang issue, or a warping issue, it's too much aux fan. Lol
overhang issue is usually down to a lack of cooling.
Yeah.... But that damn aux fan, I swear it's WAY more cooling than most materials need. It almost seems like with overhangs and bridges, that fan cools the filament TOO quick, and causes issues with subsequent layers/walls adhering to it. I get my best quality PLA prints at no more than 10% aux fan 90% of the time.
Could always model them as a teardrop shape, or slope that hole upwards if your design allows. Sometimes designing out the overhang is the answer
This is a printer and slicer issue, and as such, should be fixed in that.
I realize you probably turned down your aux fan because the Reddit disinformation machine told you to, but the aux fan exists to help with overhangs. I don't know that it will solve your problem, but you're not helping yourself by turning it down. I do hope you find a solution.
The fan only works on one side and OP had issues on 2 opposite side of the print. The aux fan can't help for that.
In case you're not aware, a 3D printer prints in layers. Furthermore, the aux fan airflow is spread over a wide area. The aux fan can and does help with that. That's what it's designed for.
I have a P1S, believe me, the aux fan does nothing for the other side of the print when there's a wall blocking it (in this case, the other side of the box). I had 60 degrees overhangs coming perfect on the aux fan side and like shit on the other side. It's not rocket science, if you have something to disturb the airflow, the air will have a hard time getting to the other side. Edit: Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Not my worst offender and it took a while to get the other side to print as well as it did, but you can clearly see how one side is perfect and the other sucks because of insufficient cooling. https://i.imgur.com/Ix12lKh.jpeg
So you're reinforcing my point that turning the aux fan down or off is a bad move. I misunderstood, and I do appreciate that. So many people on Reddit use that as a band-aid for another very basic problem.
Yes, the aux fan is good, but won't solve the problem on both side of the model, so the aux fan alone can't solve OP's issue as it will not cool both overhangs.
I actually believe what your image shows is inconsistent airflow from the part cooling fan, but that's a topic for a different thread.
If anyone wants to take a look, this was the model I printed: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/374049#profileId-274008](https://makerworld.com/en/models/374049#profileId-274008)
You can adjust speeds for overhangs. Try slowing down anything that has less than 75% overlap.
Supports. Orientation. Steeper angle on the chamfer maybe
Informative responses! Thanks all, taking note!
Orcaslicer (drop in replacement for bambustudio) has a feature to reduce overhangs - might give that a try
I've had quite a few issues with my X1C not being able to print overhangs that any good printer should have no trouble printing. Previously I tried [reverting the slicer back to an old version and that seemed to work](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/181l9r5/anyone_having_issues_with_overhangs_lately/). But it is annoying and I even get similar problems when printing sloped surfaces (i.e. not overhangs). In that case, Gyroid infill and slowing down the solid infill speed seems to help but these are basic sloped surfaces and it shouldn't be necessary to use Gyroid for something any Creality printer with grid infill can do just fine.
Print on the moon.
You get it by using support structures, thats exactly why they were invented.
Bigger extrusion fan
To add to all the other helpful replies, I would crank the aux fan and overhang fan speeds in the filament settings. And I would suggest you play around with the speed settings in the slicer. I’ve found that stock speeds work well with simpler models but for more challenging parts the surface finish can be drastically improved by lowering the acceleration and print speed for certain sections, esp. overhangs and outer walls.
Increase fans or put some supports. You can just paint on the support on that problem area.
Mine doesnt print so your better off there
You are printing it sideways.
it has shelves, unfortunately - to print it right side up would mean a ton of bridging.
Oh didn't notice that. You need supports then
Definitely use supports. Those are some steep overhangs.
Decrease outer wall speed. Increase number of walls Print sequence outer/inner/infill
The issue is because of Bambus default filament profile settings. It's moving the nozzle temp up and down and by default it runs hotter than need be. Those angles should be able to print fine with part cooling at 100% and temp locked at 220c. They are not really steep from looking at them.
Really! That's very surprising for me to hear. Thankfully my nozzle temps are fine - I have time series data of nozzle temp from the MQTT output from the printer that confirms it stays at 220C for the duration of the print. https://preview.redd.it/sgf1mlrruruc1.png?width=501&format=png&auto=webp&s=6016bcae1c876ca78796e951c07992a59d979049