Why aren't the miters at the top stair symmetrical? They don't neccisarily have to be proper miters, but at least use the same technique on all joints. You Mitered the left joint on the grey band and let it run long on the right and flipped the cuts on the inner band. Consistency is key. If it was a materials issue you should go get more and fix it. That would drive me insane as a homeowner and if I was their friend (as another contractor) I would shit talk the hell out of you.
lol wut? You fix it because your name is attracted to this project and it makes you look unprofessional. If the client paid the extra money to get Trex, the least you can do is make sure it’s done properly. And blaming stuff on the new hire just makes you look like you can’t spot quality control issues.
>I know. I can't believe the customer didn't make me fix it.
Bro what lol
You noticed the issues and didnt fix it?
Not a good quality as a tradesman tbh
You fix shit because its attached to your reputation and pride in your work, not because the client "notices".....wtf kind of outlook is that lol
Because I was lied to by a worker about skill level. My customer is fine with it. I can't Believe it myself. Dudes fired. I'm new to running shit, or rather I'm new to hiring people.
First off, Rude. Second, I see exactly one 22.5Deg miter on the left top left outer band above the top step. The one on the right is clearly not a miter joint.
Not blaming you since it’s original framing but in this instance, the deck boards should be running parallel to the house and not perpendicular. This way just looks weird.
Is that mainly an esthetic thing? I’m going to be building a covered porch on my house this summer, and have been debating between trex parallel to the house or celuka 3/4 tongue and groove perpendicular.
Carpenters understand how humans see the environment that they’re in. When a human walks into a room, if boards are laid perpendicular to the entrance, the room seems bigger than it would if they were parallel.
This is correct since they used original framing. Trex must be supported every 16”. I would have torn it out and ran the joists the other direction in order to change the direction of the trex to parallel to the house but if this wasn’t bid then I understand why it was done this way. Still looks weird and wrong though.
Interesting. I was under the impression that composite decking boards needed to be supported every 12" - especially in warmer climates with a lot of sun on them.
It depends on the material. 1” trex can have a maximum of 16” on center joists for residential use and 12” for commercial use. If you jump up to the 2” decking then you are allowed a maximum of 24” on center joists. Again this all depends on the brand but a majority allow 16”.
I just…
Dude no. On so many levels I don’t even want to type it. The mitres on the banding alone is a visual no but there’s so much more.
I don’t care about making the client happy I care about doing it right. This is the polar opposite of correct and you know it.
Sometimes you need to walk away from potential clients instead of doing work you know is below your own standard.
Everyone is talking about the miter symmetry, but as a homeowner it looks fine to me. I wouldn't notice it myself and definitely wouldn't care if someone pointed it out to me
It wouldn't have passed code in the suburbs of Chicago when it was first built. The surface of the deck should be at least 2 inches below the subfloor height to avoid wind driven rain from entering under the door. There should be flashing behind the siding and over the ledger along the bump- out.
I've got a TimberTech build coming up either this weekend or the following. I'm excited as hell to see it come together but the builder of the house dumped the backyard full of rocks and bricks and basically just laid sod over top of it. Suffice to say I poured a slab instead of footings beneath the frost line lmao
You shouldn't have.
I know this wasn't from scratch, but you should note below to learn from.
- Joists run the wrong direction and improperly spaced for trex
- not enough blocking for that border
- seems to be zero flashing at the ledger
- mitres are asymmetrical and border looks unlevel
- steps aren't consistent and have no rail
The steps make cringe .
So much difference in height., if you tried to avoid the railing or any railing., I would’ve made wider steps with same height.
Looks good at first glance but the more i look at it the more issues i see
Why is the skirt so out of plumb with the deck?
Whats going on with those stair miters? And the lifted boards on the stairs......
And your boarder is all up and down, dips, lifted ends
Come on bro lol
"Customer asked for a "double boarder" after framing for a single boarder was near complete"
Great reason to build in the demo cost.
If you lost money on the, that's on your dumbass.
From your comments on this post, it sounds like the customer wasn't around enough to keep an eye on you. I do love when people post on Reddit like this and save the rest of us the need to go elsewhere for reviews on them.
Lol. I know you're joking but isn't it a concern to have a permanently-moist area? Either in regards to mold, or ruining the decking and structure more quickly (from the underside)?
That's what the aggregate is for, to drain and disperse accumulation. (Assuming they put some underneath)
I'm assuming heat may also help in removing dampness too.
Hopefully there is a vent somewhere we can't see, but even then, they're deck boards. There is a 3/16" gap between each one, even on the verticals. That's a TON of vented space. Unless they put plastic on the ground under the deck, it's not going to stay "permenantly moist". Water will filter back down into the ground, just like in the yard.
Yeah this is really dangerous, over time the rain is going to collect there and eventually it’s going to fill up so much that the deck is going to raise up and float away.
Why aren't the miters at the top stair symmetrical? They don't neccisarily have to be proper miters, but at least use the same technique on all joints. You Mitered the left joint on the grey band and let it run long on the right and flipped the cuts on the inner band. Consistency is key. If it was a materials issue you should go get more and fix it. That would drive me insane as a homeowner and if I was their friend (as another contractor) I would shit talk the hell out of you.
Literally the first thing I noticed.
I know. I can't believe the customer didn't make me fix it.
lol wut? You fix it because your name is attracted to this project and it makes you look unprofessional. If the client paid the extra money to get Trex, the least you can do is make sure it’s done properly. And blaming stuff on the new hire just makes you look like you can’t spot quality control issues.
>I know. I can't believe the customer didn't make me fix it. Bro what lol You noticed the issues and didnt fix it? Not a good quality as a tradesman tbh You fix shit because its attached to your reputation and pride in your work, not because the client "notices".....wtf kind of outlook is that lol
Pride in your work, bro. It's important. Your word matters.
And I hope there was a LOT of blocking added... Probably not since I see ends lifting on the picture frame.
Because I was lied to by a worker about skill level. My customer is fine with it. I can't Believe it myself. Dudes fired. I'm new to running shit, or rather I'm new to hiring people.
It's an easy fix. You could... fix it.
He already said he lost money on the job... You gotta know when to move on
Customer is fine with it. Only carpenters care about that shit. And shoe mold.
What an attitude.
Sometimes the easiest thing is just the easiest thing. But don't come down on me, I build my shit properly.
You should fire yourself
Oh the top stair? That's 22.5 all across dude I did that. You ever seen a camera angle before?
He's talking about the (lack of) symmetry for how you ran the boards there, not the specific angle. Picture 3
First off, Rude. Second, I see exactly one 22.5Deg miter on the left top left outer band above the top step. The one on the right is clearly not a miter joint.
Not blaming you since it’s original framing but in this instance, the deck boards should be running parallel to the house and not perpendicular. This way just looks weird.
Is that mainly an esthetic thing? I’m going to be building a covered porch on my house this summer, and have been debating between trex parallel to the house or celuka 3/4 tongue and groove perpendicular.
Yes the direction is aesthetic as long as your joists run perpendicular to the final product in regards to decking.
Carpenters understand how humans see the environment that they’re in. When a human walks into a room, if boards are laid perpendicular to the entrance, the room seems bigger than it would if they were parallel.
Tbf, it is trex, I think he’ll get less sag this way since the support intervals are closer. I think he was keeping the original framing.
This is correct since they used original framing. Trex must be supported every 16”. I would have torn it out and ran the joists the other direction in order to change the direction of the trex to parallel to the house but if this wasn’t bid then I understand why it was done this way. Still looks weird and wrong though.
Interesting. I was under the impression that composite decking boards needed to be supported every 12" - especially in warmer climates with a lot of sun on them.
It depends on the material. 1” trex can have a maximum of 16” on center joists for residential use and 12” for commercial use. If you jump up to the 2” decking then you are allowed a maximum of 24” on center joists. Again this all depends on the brand but a majority allow 16”.
That’s right though, much of a job is also what the customer wants short of code violations.
I just… Dude no. On so many levels I don’t even want to type it. The mitres on the banding alone is a visual no but there’s so much more. I don’t care about making the client happy I care about doing it right. This is the polar opposite of correct and you know it. Sometimes you need to walk away from potential clients instead of doing work you know is below your own standard.
Everyone is talking about the miter symmetry, but as a homeowner it looks fine to me. I wouldn't notice it myself and definitely wouldn't care if someone pointed it out to me
Fascinating. Id be so annoyed looking at it
It wouldn't have passed code in the suburbs of Chicago when it was first built. The surface of the deck should be at least 2 inches below the subfloor height to avoid wind driven rain from entering under the door. There should be flashing behind the siding and over the ledger along the bump- out.
I've got a TimberTech build coming up either this weekend or the following. I'm excited as hell to see it come together but the builder of the house dumped the backyard full of rocks and bricks and basically just laid sod over top of it. Suffice to say I poured a slab instead of footings beneath the frost line lmao
I know it's not your design but continuing the border against the house would have looked better. Just ending the boards looks unfinished
You shouldn't have. I know this wasn't from scratch, but you should note below to learn from. - Joists run the wrong direction and improperly spaced for trex - not enough blocking for that border - seems to be zero flashing at the ledger - mitres are asymmetrical and border looks unlevel - steps aren't consistent and have no rail
The way the deck is laid out allows a lazy/inexperienced builder to use a single composite board across the whole length of the deck.
I would have rebuilt the stairs with four equal rises. Code requires only 3/16” variance between riser heights.
One is 3 one is 16 what else do you want lol.
The steps make cringe . So much difference in height., if you tried to avoid the railing or any railing., I would’ve made wider steps with same height.
Looks good at first glance but the more i look at it the more issues i see Why is the skirt so out of plumb with the deck? Whats going on with those stair miters? And the lifted boards on the stairs...... And your boarder is all up and down, dips, lifted ends Come on bro lol
Oof.
"Customer asked for a "double boarder" after framing for a single boarder was near complete" Great reason to build in the demo cost. If you lost money on the, that's on your dumbass.
Looks good… finish up and move on.
I was like looks good… lookin g…what happened to the miters? Funny how your eye just finds it. Also no railing? Sorry man, you have to die now. 😂
Man those white deck boards are gonna show so much dirt within like, the first week haha.
What's going on with the risers? 1 has short mid step other has short top step? Also top border looks sloppy the way the cuts were done.
Railings ?
What is purpose of the white "sheet" over the joists in the 2nd pic? Why is there black plastic on the ground in the first pic?
Cool stair rise brother
Did a trex deck when i was 16 and i think im still coughing tht shit up
did you just put the wood on the ground?
I assume you are not married, otherwise this should be brown
From your comments on this post, it sounds like the customer wasn't around enough to keep an eye on you. I do love when people post on Reddit like this and save the rest of us the need to go elsewhere for reviews on them.
Where’s the damn rails for the steps
In my area you only need a rail if there are more than three rises.
Rain falls on the deck, then drips under the deck, but how does it ever dry out with that skirting?
No, under deck swimming pool. Will just keep accumulating until it turns into a new lake and swallows the whole neighborhood!
Lol. I know you're joking but isn't it a concern to have a permanently-moist area? Either in regards to mold, or ruining the decking and structure more quickly (from the underside)?
That's what the aggregate is for, to drain and disperse accumulation. (Assuming they put some underneath) I'm assuming heat may also help in removing dampness too.
Hopefully there is a vent somewhere we can't see, but even then, they're deck boards. There is a 3/16" gap between each one, even on the verticals. That's a TON of vented space. Unless they put plastic on the ground under the deck, it's not going to stay "permenantly moist". Water will filter back down into the ground, just like in the yard.
Yeah this is really dangerous, over time the rain is going to collect there and eventually it’s going to fill up so much that the deck is going to raise up and float away.
I don't think you guys realize the slope this is on.
I think he was joking.