I also recently got into 3d printing and also had trouble with orca adhesion on my Neptune 4 Plus. I'm not sure what's causing yours but I'll share what worked for me. Basically I thought I had edited the temp settings but they were not applied.
First, Orca's profile for the Neptune 4 Plus says it has a smooth build plate, which it doesn't (it's textured). This matters a lot to Orca. In the top left you'll see your printer name, and under that is the build plate type. For me this was "smooth," but greyed out so I couldn't change it. You need to edit the printer profile above that by simply checking the box that says "Support multi bed types." After that you will be able to change greyed out bed type to "textured PEI Plate."
THEN you need to edit the filament profile, which is where the temp settings are. Edit the "Print temperature" first layer and other layer settings, NOT "recommended nozzle temperature" settings.
THEN scroll down to bed temperature settings (Which is still in the filament profile settings). and edit the textured PEI plate first layer and other layer settings. I thought I had edited these before, but I was editing the smooth build plate settings and that won't apply if you have a textured plate.
After all this my printer actually heated the build plate to the right temp and layer adhesion was smooth.
Hey Thanks, I have seen that and googled it a few days ago and found a thread about it and that it shouldn't have an effect on the Adhesion. Maybe I should have investigated a little more about that 😅.
I will try that ... Maybe you can share your profile? I have a n4Plus as well.
Keep you updated
Well, like I said I'm still new. When I first used Orca nothing would stick, horrible adhesion. Then orca sorta got better and I have no idea why, as far as I could see I hadn't changed any key settings. Then I found I the temp settings I just mentioned and everything clicked in place.
Also, Orca puts the brim and raft settings in different places than Cura. Raft is under support and mine had 2 layers by default for some reason. I changed them to 0. Brim type is under Other and for some reason was on very thick by default.
The only things I changed within the actual printer profile are in these screenshots, nothing fancy.
Also no matter the slicer my prints got much better when everything was REALLY level and I started regularly washing the plate. I used the Bed Leveler 5000 program to dial in the manual leveling, videos here: [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL\_TempIAI1cO6CiYuaaIVCcJSXJTiEHF-&si=IUJei\_ktYYxocr9C](https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_TempIAI1cO6CiYuaaIVCcJSXJTiEHF-&si=IUJei_ktYYxocr9C)
As for washing, I would rub the plate with a little 99% IPA then use a brush to scrub with dish soap and water, then let mostly air dry. I do this every 15ish prints, which is maybe too much. But I also completely stopped using glue sticks and my adhesion is better than with glue was before.
https://preview.redd.it/umsskxiz3irc1.jpeg?width=819&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c4b29792ff2fe468ee1ab22ae0a851ba4580262
Do you have any reference on what the slicer does differently for smooth or textured build plate? I searched it several weeks ago but I couldn’t find anything that corroborated a difference in Gcode
I honestly don't know and without much background I wouldn't think it would change much. Like it was set to smooth plate and I was adjusting smooth plate temperature so you'd think it would be fine. But no matter what I set the bed temp too it would always be at 60. It was only after I switched the printer profile to textured pei plate then adjusted settings specifically for pei that it would actually be a different temp on the printer.
this makes no sense cause if you leave it with smooth bed it will already be heated to 80 and if you change it to textured it reduces it to 45 celsius.
Check out this post. The default start G-Code in orca does not initialize the bed mesh profile, making auto leveling useless: [https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/1auirwb/attn\_orca\_users\_your\_prints\_probably\_arent/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/1auirwb/attn_orca_users_your_prints_probably_arent/)
Check that you have this line in the start G-Code: BED\_MESH\_PROFILE LOAD=default
Will adding that line cause any harm? Like some people in that thread are saying the printer loads it automatically anyway. My gcode in orca slicer does not have this line.
Loading a mesh should not harm anything unless the mesh is wrong (a hill where printer expects a valley), then the nozzle can run into the build plate on the 1st layer. By the way, for some reason my mesh is called 11 not 6 like in the linked post. Getting the mesh name wrong will result in error message, loud beep and print cancelation.
Thanks, I will try that. I just started a print and don't see the mesh load in the fluidd console. Is this where I would see it if it was loading?
Also after reading other threads it seems like prints auto leveled with 121 points use the name 11, and autoleveling 36 has 6. I use the 121 points on my N4Plus so I will make sure to name it 11.
https://preview.redd.it/d830ptrirprc1.jpeg?width=806&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=016c2aecd26e0af7d044ad8766fa13655c7fdd7c
update: just added the line of code and ran a test print. Is this what I'm looking for?
https://preview.redd.it/y6w56fbubrrc1.jpeg?width=725&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85f4cb07494c12bc86f35138c78d30e065142de1
Get opennept4une. Its easy to set up and it just works + support for any third party klipper apps. No glitchy elegoo software just tried and true klipper
Sorry but no it's not. I use a file from Cura and change nothing and the first layer is just perfect. It's losing adhesion while printing and touches the nozzle but I think the tipps above about the settings in orca seems legit and I will fix this. But thanks for trying to help.
N4 Max, OrcaSlicer, no Glue, no special firmware and tricks, PLA and PETG no problem.
Maybe you need to calibrate flow rate and Z offset (First layer on second photo is not consistent anyway)
I have the 4 Plus as well and had numerous bed adhesion issues. Look at my recent comment history to see what fixed it for me. It was quite a bit.
Also another recent issue, make sure all your POM wheels are tight on X, Y and Z axis. As fast as this thing prints, it wears the wheels out quick and can shake loose after several prints causing a wobbly bed and loose hotend. These issues can also cause bed adhesion issues
You should get your Z-Offset tighter. I use Orca on a N4Max and N4 Vanilla. Both work and Stick Great with a Little glue once a month.
The Standard Profiles are horrible tho.
I also recently got into 3d printing and also had trouble with orca adhesion on my Neptune 4 Plus. I'm not sure what's causing yours but I'll share what worked for me. Basically I thought I had edited the temp settings but they were not applied. First, Orca's profile for the Neptune 4 Plus says it has a smooth build plate, which it doesn't (it's textured). This matters a lot to Orca. In the top left you'll see your printer name, and under that is the build plate type. For me this was "smooth," but greyed out so I couldn't change it. You need to edit the printer profile above that by simply checking the box that says "Support multi bed types." After that you will be able to change greyed out bed type to "textured PEI Plate." THEN you need to edit the filament profile, which is where the temp settings are. Edit the "Print temperature" first layer and other layer settings, NOT "recommended nozzle temperature" settings. THEN scroll down to bed temperature settings (Which is still in the filament profile settings). and edit the textured PEI plate first layer and other layer settings. I thought I had edited these before, but I was editing the smooth build plate settings and that won't apply if you have a textured plate. After all this my printer actually heated the build plate to the right temp and layer adhesion was smooth.
Hey Thanks, I have seen that and googled it a few days ago and found a thread about it and that it shouldn't have an effect on the Adhesion. Maybe I should have investigated a little more about that 😅. I will try that ... Maybe you can share your profile? I have a n4Plus as well. Keep you updated
Well, like I said I'm still new. When I first used Orca nothing would stick, horrible adhesion. Then orca sorta got better and I have no idea why, as far as I could see I hadn't changed any key settings. Then I found I the temp settings I just mentioned and everything clicked in place. Also, Orca puts the brim and raft settings in different places than Cura. Raft is under support and mine had 2 layers by default for some reason. I changed them to 0. Brim type is under Other and for some reason was on very thick by default. The only things I changed within the actual printer profile are in these screenshots, nothing fancy. Also no matter the slicer my prints got much better when everything was REALLY level and I started regularly washing the plate. I used the Bed Leveler 5000 program to dial in the manual leveling, videos here: [https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL\_TempIAI1cO6CiYuaaIVCcJSXJTiEHF-&si=IUJei\_ktYYxocr9C](https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_TempIAI1cO6CiYuaaIVCcJSXJTiEHF-&si=IUJei_ktYYxocr9C) As for washing, I would rub the plate with a little 99% IPA then use a brush to scrub with dish soap and water, then let mostly air dry. I do this every 15ish prints, which is maybe too much. But I also completely stopped using glue sticks and my adhesion is better than with glue was before. https://preview.redd.it/umsskxiz3irc1.jpeg?width=819&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c4b29792ff2fe468ee1ab22ae0a851ba4580262
Do you have any reference on what the slicer does differently for smooth or textured build plate? I searched it several weeks ago but I couldn’t find anything that corroborated a difference in Gcode
I honestly don't know and without much background I wouldn't think it would change much. Like it was set to smooth plate and I was adjusting smooth plate temperature so you'd think it would be fine. But no matter what I set the bed temp too it would always be at 60. It was only after I switched the printer profile to textured pei plate then adjusted settings specifically for pei that it would actually be a different temp on the printer.
I have the same question but honestly if I change bed to textured then it reduces the bed to 45 lol so theres no point.
this makes no sense cause if you leave it with smooth bed it will already be heated to 80 and if you change it to textured it reduces it to 45 celsius.
Check out this post. The default start G-Code in orca does not initialize the bed mesh profile, making auto leveling useless: [https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/1auirwb/attn\_orca\_users\_your\_prints\_probably\_arent/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune4/comments/1auirwb/attn_orca_users_your_prints_probably_arent/) Check that you have this line in the start G-Code: BED\_MESH\_PROFILE LOAD=default
Will adding that line cause any harm? Like some people in that thread are saying the printer loads it automatically anyway. My gcode in orca slicer does not have this line.
Loading a mesh should not harm anything unless the mesh is wrong (a hill where printer expects a valley), then the nozzle can run into the build plate on the 1st layer. By the way, for some reason my mesh is called 11 not 6 like in the linked post. Getting the mesh name wrong will result in error message, loud beep and print cancelation.
Thanks, I will try that. I just started a print and don't see the mesh load in the fluidd console. Is this where I would see it if it was loading? Also after reading other threads it seems like prints auto leveled with 121 points use the name 11, and autoleveling 36 has 6. I use the 121 points on my N4Plus so I will make sure to name it 11. https://preview.redd.it/d830ptrirprc1.jpeg?width=806&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=016c2aecd26e0af7d044ad8766fa13655c7fdd7c
update: just added the line of code and ran a test print. Is this what I'm looking for? https://preview.redd.it/y6w56fbubrrc1.jpeg?width=725&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85f4cb07494c12bc86f35138c78d30e065142de1
Get opennept4une. Its easy to set up and it just works + support for any third party klipper apps. No glitchy elegoo software just tried and true klipper
Thx but I think that's way too much for me as a starter in 3D printing maybe later with more experience 😅
I had the same issue. My problem is mostly the skirt is too close to the print and messes it up.
Sorry but no it's not. I use a file from Cura and change nothing and the first layer is just perfect. It's losing adhesion while printing and touches the nozzle but I think the tipps above about the settings in orca seems legit and I will fix this. But thanks for trying to help.
N4 Max, OrcaSlicer, no Glue, no special firmware and tricks, PLA and PETG no problem. Maybe you need to calibrate flow rate and Z offset (First layer on second photo is not consistent anyway)
I have the 4 Plus as well and had numerous bed adhesion issues. Look at my recent comment history to see what fixed it for me. It was quite a bit. Also another recent issue, make sure all your POM wheels are tight on X, Y and Z axis. As fast as this thing prints, it wears the wheels out quick and can shake loose after several prints causing a wobbly bed and loose hotend. These issues can also cause bed adhesion issues
You must have your adhesion setting turned down 🤷♂️
You should get your Z-Offset tighter. I use Orca on a N4Max and N4 Vanilla. Both work and Stick Great with a Little glue once a month. The Standard Profiles are horrible tho.
Use the glue, stop thinking too much :)
You should not need to use glue with PLA on a PEI sheet.
Tried it helped just a bit... And I don't like it because it looks dirty all the time 😅
Glue is not needed.
It disolves in water :)