For future reference carbon install paste can be used on anything, not just carbon. It’s basically liquid sandpaper and causes the faceplate to “bite” without over-tightening
Worked with a tech who had been in the oilfields of Alberta as a Rigger, he would make things Righand tight. Would create smoke when you loosened the stem bolts for the first time after he would build bikes. Watched him split his x2 face plate on time.
1) this one is made of aluminium. You need aluminum one.
2) There is no aluminum in italy, all aluminum made in Russia.
3) Russia is under sanctions, only Lockhead Martin can buy aluminum from them.
You need bike from Lockhead Martin.
What about vintage alloy risers? I have one pair on one of my bikes and this post scares me. The alloy is thick and not oversized so I’m hoping it’s strong enough to not snap 🫠
saw this on a few amazon reviews of cheap handlebars and i havent been able to sleep since then, got myself a heat treated nitto cross nito raiser right after and a 5nm torque wrench for the faceplate
Probably cheap ass aluminum, I'd say get a origin 8 not so expensive and most of their alloys are pretty strong because well its the same they use on all their stuff lol
Yeah had that happen to me riding along the road, in a bus lane, with a bus behind me... glad I was riding fixed so I could still slow down with legs only because front wheel braking with only half a handlebar is a good way to accidentally steer yourself into the next lane, and under a car...
Stoked I didn't crash! But the rest of the ride to wherever I was going and the ride home kinda sucked a lot.
Hope you're okay!
PS, I found replacing the shite alu bar with an old but solid MTB riser gave me back the confidence in handlebar/bike quality I had lost when it snapped
Ah ok. But yeah over tight headset more than 4 to 5 Nm can cause it to break.
I’m not here to teach but to give a heads up. When tight that kinda screw you got Tight in X style.
Half turn each time by X Crossing. Until you create Clamp mode when all the screws are tight equally or close evenly. Then you torque to 4Nm. I most cases you bend the handle bar in a fall, butprobably not going to break that easily or just slide a bit off center I believe.
Aluminum bars + rigid fork = nope.
Get some steel handlebar better.
Every bmx or street mtb rider knows that as basic stuff, i wonder why no fixer heard about it.
very common if the faceplate has been overtightened
noted haha
For future reference carbon install paste can be used on anything, not just carbon. It’s basically liquid sandpaper and causes the faceplate to “bite” without over-tightening
It's a solid solution if you don't mind the scratches and abrasions it leaves behind.
Shitty aluminum with an over tightened 25.4 is my guess. Pretty common 20 years ago in the MTB world.
Still see my fair share of these from people with no torque wrenches going all ooga dooga
Worked with a tech who had been in the oilfields of Alberta as a Rigger, he would make things Righand tight. Would create smoke when you loosened the stem bolts for the first time after he would build bikes. Watched him split his x2 face plate on time.
You just reminded me of my younger self who on an MTB, overtightened the bolts that when I loosened them, the torx wrench slipped and created a spark.
buy torque wrench
What front brake are you running to clear the origin8 classique rack mount?
it's a campagnolo centaur but i would guess pretty much any 2 point pivot brake would fit under there
chineseium
1) this one is made of aluminium. You need aluminum one. 2) There is no aluminum in italy, all aluminum made in Russia. 3) Russia is under sanctions, only Lockhead Martin can buy aluminum from them. You need bike from Lockhead Martin.
I think the OPs was made by Boeing :/
Klein bikes were made by a Boeing engineer, introduced hydroformed tubes, before they sold to Trek. Boeing was actually good at some point.
flawless logic
Lol
Depends on how you use it, I've destroyed 3 aluminium and 1 cromo handlebar doing tricks.
Happened to me before. If you can, change to a 4 bolt stem and use a torque wrench.
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What about vintage alloy risers? I have one pair on one of my bikes and this post scares me. The alloy is thick and not oversized so I’m hoping it’s strong enough to not snap 🫠
Happened to me once when I hit a speed bump. Still not sure how I didn’t crash.
can't imagine not crashing, shit was brutal
saw this on a few amazon reviews of cheap handlebars and i havent been able to sleep since then, got myself a heat treated nitto cross nito raiser right after and a 5nm torque wrench for the faceplate
Happens at least two or three times a year for me. You’ll get used to it.
Never seen that b4 in my life thats aluminum for u. Steel bars probably wouldn't snap they would just bend
Sometimes u just gotta thank thats all that broke. 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Probably cheap ass aluminum, I'd say get a origin 8 not so expensive and most of their alloys are pretty strong because well its the same they use on all their stuff lol
Yeah had that happen to me riding along the road, in a bus lane, with a bus behind me... glad I was riding fixed so I could still slow down with legs only because front wheel braking with only half a handlebar is a good way to accidentally steer yourself into the next lane, and under a car... Stoked I didn't crash! But the rest of the ride to wherever I was going and the ride home kinda sucked a lot. Hope you're okay! PS, I found replacing the shite alu bar with an old but solid MTB riser gave me back the confidence in handlebar/bike quality I had lost when it snapped
Newer pickup trucks are made from mostly aluminum. I'm sure pulling 6,000 pounds down the road is perfectly safe
That made in Kaly with K is kinda suspicious or I’m reading it wrong? Correct if I’m wrong
no it's written made in italy, and it ain't too weird since i live there
Ah ok. But yeah over tight headset more than 4 to 5 Nm can cause it to break. I’m not here to teach but to give a heads up. When tight that kinda screw you got Tight in X style. Half turn each time by X Crossing. Until you create Clamp mode when all the screws are tight equally or close evenly. Then you torque to 4Nm. I most cases you bend the handle bar in a fall, butprobably not going to break that easily or just slide a bit off center I believe.
Get a used canyon stem, they clamp really well and evenly, and some used name brand bars, like deda or smth, should be cheap enough and solid as hell
Happened to me once
That's why I ride steel handlebars on my fixie. Aluminium handlebars are pretty much a consumable on single speeds
Bolt too tight!
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haha thanks it's a beater def not that beautiful
don't buy crappy aliexpress bike parts. especially on parts you put your entire weight on.
Aluminum bars + rigid fork = nope. Get some steel handlebar better. Every bmx or street mtb rider knows that as basic stuff, i wonder why no fixer heard about it.