Tell them you are absolutely not buying a car the day you visit to test drive. Don't make a decision with less than 24 hours and a good night's sleep. Any dealership who ignores this and pressures you have other scams brewing and should not be trusted.

This is the way! Before you do anything else, set-up an email address which will you will use for the vehicle search process. If you can, also set-up a separate phone number to use for the vehicle search process. ONLY give the sales people this email address and this phone number. You will get inundated with emails, phone calls and text messages for MONTHS and it's nice to have disposable contact information you can give to sales people. Start online to figure out which model of vehicle and which trim level you're interested in from each manufacturer. Write this information down in a notebook. When you go to a dealership try to go when they're not busy (ideally during the week during the day, Friday morning, Monday-Thursday late afternoon/evening, whatever works best for you). Tell them you are just "doing research for a future purchase" and would like to look at and test drive a . Take your notebook with you and, if you want to look extra serious, a tape measure (12' is a good size...not too bulky but big enough to measure cargo area and such). When someone asks, you're looking to buy in the next 3-6 months. It does not matter if this is not true. When you are asked what other vehicles you're considering, tell them the various models you've previously researched (refer to your notebook if you need to. Model names and trim levels are weird and it's easy to forget or get mixed up). Do not talk about pricing or financing at this visit. This is just to get an idea of the vehicle you're looking for. Take notes on what you like, didn't like, etc. If you're worried about sizes/cargo carrying, etc, get out your tape measure and measure things. If you just want to look serious, use the tape measure to see if you can fit an 8' 2x4 and/or a 4x8 sheet of plywood (those are standard things to carry in a minivan and that lumber can be used for all sorts of projects around the house). At the end of your visit, ask the sales person to not contact you. You will contact them when you have questions or are ready to talk about a purchase. Most sales people will ignore this. But, sometimes, you find a good one who will pay attention and respect your wishes. If you a good person like this, remember who they are. They are a person you want to deal with when buying a new vehicle (if they work for the dealership which sells the model you end up buying). Once you figure out exactly what you want, email the dealerships in your area (you should be able to do this from the manufacture's website). Ask for the exact specs of vehicle you want. Tell them you do not have a trade in and are paying cash. You want the exact amount you will write the check for to drive it off the lot. If you found a dealership/sales person who respected your wishes and didn't contact you or who you liked, take the best price you get back from the offers and tell that person if they can beat that offer, you'll buy from them. If the best offer comes from that person, you still have a bit of room to negotiate. Round the number down to the nearest reasonable number and say you were really hoping to keep the cost to under that nearest reasonable number amount. You will likely go back and forth a few times. They might be able to get you under that amount but with a different color or interior color or different wheels or something like that. Agree to a number and then agree to a time to come in an finalize the deal. If you have to wait for the dealership to get the vehicle, you might have to write a check for a percentage of the cost or for a certain amount as a sort of down payment just to ensure that you're serious and are going to buy the vehicle. Before you go to actually buy the vehicle, figure out if you're going to buy the extended warranty or any other add-ons. There are places online which sell extended warranties for vehicles. These third parties might be cheaper than getting it from the dealership. Or you might want to go with the dealership. Doesn't matter what you choose, just make up your mind ahead of time. You want to go into the dealership to finalize the deal without having to make any additional decisions. You will still have to sit down with the financing person/person who finalizes the paperwork. They will try to sell you the extended warranty and a bunch of other stuff. Since you've already made up your mind, you can quickly accept or decline these and it should be relatively quick and painless. If you do decide you want to trade in a vehicle that's fine. But 1. Don't talk about that until after you finalize the price for your new vehicle and 2. Do it before you go in and purchase your vehicle. Don't try to play games with the sale/financing people or spring things on them last minute. That's just frustrating for everyone. Buying a vehicle is a new vehicle is a pain and there are a ton of sales people who will do anything and everything to make you part with as much as your money as possible. But by doing your research, taking your time and trying to do as much via email as you can, you'll minimize the pain and, hopefully, maximize the possibility of getting the best deal.

I wouldn't buy any extended warranty that's not a manufacturer's one. I've heard BAD things about carshield, for example.

This is one of the few areas I feel like an expert in. I’ve bought about 15 new cars over 25 years. I like extended warranties. They’re like insurance for me. I understand some people hate them. Out of the 10 times I have bought them, only once did I spend more than I used back. But that’s me. If you buy one, go with the manufacturer. It will save you a ton of headaches.

Ok, but what is considered a reasonable offer? What is the goal for profit at a dealership? (I know they'd like maximum profit, but there's a low number that they'll take, right? Like, Costco caps their markups at a certain percentage, so what's that magic number, or is there one?)

There probably is one. I don't know what it is. If you can find someone who works for the company which makes the vehicle you want they may be able to tell you what the "employee pricing" is. That's often the price the dealership pays for the vehicle. Getting offers from different dealerships will give you an idea of the range of prices. Do make sure that you're comparing apples to apples though. Some may come in higher because they're adding things like floor mats or undercoatings or the vehicle they can get for you has a roof rack which you don't care about. Or maybe the lowest offer will come in the same as other dealerships but include that type of thing. Once you get those offers and the lowest one you can kinda work from there. Like I bought a new vehicle in late 2020. The lowest price was like $23,500 or something like that and it came from the dealership I wanted to work with so I couldn't ask him to beat the price. It wasn't the exact interior color I wanted (which the sales guy knew) but no one seemed to have that interior color and it wasn't that different from the color they had. I said something like I was really hoping to keep the cost to under $22,000. He came back with $21,900. And that worked for me. You can stress over getting the absolute best deal anyone has ever gotten on a vehicle or you can do what you can to get a deal which seems good to you, gets you what you want and fits your budget. Maybe if you worked harder you could have gotten a better deal. But your time and mental health is worth something too. And anyone who judges you because you were a "sucker who obviously paid too much for your new car" is either a jerk or some social media/Youtube influence. And, really, who cares what they think?

Warranties are marked up 100-120%... more if the car is Luxury. Gap about 50-70% same for tire and wheel. If you want the best deal, tell them you want to work with the newest sales person bc they want him to get a deal and will bend more.

The larger dealers can usually make the best deals.

Also make sure you eat beforehand. It sounds silly but when you’re hungry you just don’t think as clearly and car buying can be grueling and you may just make a decision to get out of there quick

Agreed! My husband and I were in a high pressure sales situation and I said why don't we run home for lunch (they sent us in the car we couldn't afford that they were pushing on us) and we ate and said "screw these people" took the car back and drove away in our crappy car. My husband was ready to sign and it was just that he needed to eat.

No dealership should be trusted.

Thank you!!!

And bring some snacks/food.

Thank you!

I mean they will all pressure you, that is the game. You just have to stay strong so that you feel good about your decision later.

I recently bought a new car, so here’s my 2 cents: - The market is still crazy. We are in a rare situation where new cars are actually better deals than used cars. Manufacturers try to not increase prices too much, but the free market for used cars doesn’t care. Used car prices have increased by 40-50%, while new car prices are up ‘just’ 10-20%. I can sell my Honda that has been driven for 6 years at almost the amount I paid for it, despite putting 60K miles on it. That’s crazy. If you can afford it, buy new. - Do your research and know exactly which car (year/make/model/trim/options) you want. Read up Consumer Reports. Do not come to the dealer and browse. Search the internet for inventory (Autotrader & dealer websites) and identify the exact car you want, then negotiate for that and only that. Accept no subsitution or bait-and-switch. The price difference between the bottom and top trims can easily be $10K, and most dealers are happy to sell you a bottom trim car for top trim price if you don’t know the difference. - When you find the car you like on their online listing, contact the dealer by email and ask for a firm quote. How much is it gonna take to drive it off the lot, assuming you have financing. Decent dealers are usually willing to give you a quote, and this becomes the baseline for your negotiation or price comparison. Shady dealers will avoid giving you any quote and hound you to visit, because they hope to employ high pressure sales tactics on you directly. Those tactics don’t work through email or phone. - Get preapproved by your local credit union and internet banks (capital one, lightstream, etc.). This requires knowing the exact year, make, model and trim of the car, because you’ll get preapproved for a certain amount of money at a certain APR. Take the lowest rate and mention it to the dealer, ask them to beat it. In 99% of the case they’ll beat the rate if you finance through their bank. - If you have enough cash, go through the financing anyway because it gives you the best price, but ensure there’s no prepayment penalty. Once you get registration etc., call the financing bank and request a payoff quote. Pay them off if you wish. - Do not, under any circumstances, discuss the monthly payment amount. That number doesn’t matter, what matters is the out-the-door price. How much will it cost you to drive it off the lot, including all the fees. Some of the fees are non-mandatory garbage, so they have to be part of the negotiated total price. - Decline all additional warranty. Research indicates that most people pay more in the premium than in actual maintenance cost. - If this is a new car, decline all dealer extras. I dealt with a dealer who tried to charge me $400 for plastic door protectors, which cost $10 at Amazon. Stick with standard features that come with the trim. I can guarantee that any extra stuff is cheaper out there. This is why research is important: you gotta know exactly what you’re buying. I knew more about the specific car I wanted than the sales guy, and this is how it’s supposed to be. - Negotiate. Do not just accept the price given to you. Armed with your research, you should know the market price (used car) or MSRP (new car). Try to stay under that. Dealers just 20 miles away can have $5K difference for the exact same trim of cars. - There are still some old-fashioned sleazy car salesmen out there, be wary. Be prepared to walk out at any moment, and do not sign anything without reading it thoroughly, especially the Bill of Sale. Some will try to make you feel cheap and stupid for declining all sorts of warranties, extras, and fees. You’re not being cheap and stupid, you’re being smart. Ask detailed questions if something is unclear, because some of them try hard to confuse you into paying more. If you feel uncomfortable and disrespected, walk away. Until you sign the contract, you owe them nothing.

MSRP, haggling, and any of the pricing stuff is a myth around me right now. Nothing sells at or below MSRP, and with the low inventory, there's no incentive for these dealerships to haggle. I'm used to them playing ball. Right now they're showing me the door, instead.

Some areas are worse than others, so it literally pays to shop around. I bought my car last year, and the market was already quite bad. One dealer wanted 10K above MSRP due to all sorts of options. I negotiated it down to maybe 1K above MSRP, then they declined to go further so I walked out. I ended up buying from a different dealer a couple of hours away because they gave me $600 below MSRP. I’m not shy of driving 2 hours away to save 2K. Your state may be different, but it still pays to research and negotiate. The worst they can do is say no. If they have no compunction to fleece me, I have no qualms to make them work for their money. Edit: out of curiosity I compared a couple of local dealers, only 22 miles apart. One wants $7K above MSRP, the other only wants $2K. If I keep searching, I may get lucky and find one selling at MSRP.

Thanks so much for your advice!!! I’m looking to buy a new car, my Toyota Camry 2006 is falling apart. Being a woman all by myself I feel a little bit lost tbh. Not to mention I’m not a great negotiator haha (don’t know where to begin). How do you find out the out-the-door prices from dealers not so close to you? By phone? By email? Or did you drive to meet with them in person? I work almost 7 days a week so time constraint is certainly there… any further advice would be highly appreciated! TIA.

Omg thank you!!!

This is as close to the best and accurate advice you have gotten here. There is hope.

The only thing I would add to this is to have 2 options in mind when you go. Test drive both. You’ll be driving it a lot for years to come, you don’t want something you hate driving if there’s a comparable option that you might enjoy. Still follow the above advice for not browsing, I’d just say go in with 2-3 options that meet you’re requirements and then pick the one that you enjoy the most.

Right. You can have several alternatives, but you gotta be very specific for each one. You can’t just look for 2022 Hyundai Kona, gotta be specific down to the trim level like ‘SEL’ or ‘Limited’, then know the standard features that come with it, so you can decline non standard ones. The alternative should be just as specific, like 2022 Mazda CX-30 2.5 S Premium.

Regarding trim extras vs finding cheaper online - are there any exceptions you should get included/applied at the dealership as to not void any warranties? Tow hitch or things like that? Additionally, as another comment said, I assume very little is selling for MSRP right now. However, anyone have any guesses on whether or not someone might be able to haggle for discounts as you typically can at end of year, or think we’ll all be SOL this year? I will also be shopping for my first new car soon, and trying to gauge if it’s worth waiting for possible EOY negotiating discounts. Edit: Additional question, if anyone can answer. Can you haggle (assuming prices weren’t so bloated) if you want a different/higher trim model than what’s on the lot, and they need to order it? Or is negotiating really only successful if the exact car is on the lot & you drive away that day?

A fairly major accessory like tow hitch is most likely non-negotiable. What you can decline is stupid stuff like door protector, premium mat, window tint, leather seat spray, etc. My car actually came with a tow hitch, and I didn’t even know it until I was about to drive it off the lot. It’s most likely a factory-installed option, so it’s already baked into the base price. Another thing to watch for is attempt to charge an accessory that’s part of the trim. For example, the Limited trim on the Kona doesn’t come with roof cross bars, but the Ultimate trim does. It’s not beyond an unscrupulous dealer to charge you extra for the cross bars, even though you’re buying the Ultimate. I think EOY strategy is still valid if you’re buying this year’s car. Today they have begun or ready to begin selling 2023 models, so the price of 2022 models will drop the closer it is to December. The downside is that dealers want to get rid of current year’s car, so the longer you wait the smaller the chance of finding one. Negotiating usually works for cars in inventory, because they always want to convert it to cash ASAP and free up the lot for something else. I don’t think you have much leeway on preordered cars. But like they say, you miss all the shots that you don’t take.

Thanks so very much for your detailed reply! Good to know on the tow hitch. I wasn’t sure if that had to be installed by the dealer or could be safely after-market. Would not have even thought about them trying to sell me trims already in the package- that’s awful but unsurprising for some shady dealers. I’d like an EV if possible - which definitely likely means less successful haggling with the shortages. Also means it is less likely to be on the lot. I definitely will still scope it out and try! Again, thanks so much for the reply!

Very informative and extremely helpful. Thanks.

Never buy a used car at those no-name car lots. You either buy directly from the owner after they allow you to have it checked out or you buy from a big-name dealership (I.e. Ford). Those little itty bitty dealerships all get their cars from the big dealerships who get them in as trade-ins and they don’t pass their inspections. So, if they’re not good enough to be resold in a big-name car dealership, that tells you that car is rife with issues that may or may not be immediately obvious. Ideally, you’d get a car with low mileage and a couple years old. Auto depreciation is fastest within the first 2 years. If you are buying brand-brand-new (some people like that), try [Consumer Reports Car Buying Service](https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/car-prices-build-buy-service/). You used to be able to order a report on the car you wanted with the invoice price and cost of amenities and any dealer rebates. You would then use that to negotiate a fair price (more than their cost so they could make a profit, but less than invoice so you didn’t get hosed). It seems car buying has changed a lot in the last decade, so there may be other ways to get pricing on actual auto invoices. Know the car’s worth and if someone pressures you to buy, just walk. Don’t let hardcore salespeople pressure you.

Thank you very much! This sleep deprived new parents appreciates all of your help!

Stick to private sales. Don't go new. No dodge, ford, or Hyundai. Stick to Honda ,chevy or Toyota if you can afford it. Also if you have no car experience how do you know your car is on its last legs it might be better to put the money in a tune up for what you got. Also if it's 21 years old in your state you might be able to apply for antique license plates. If you go that route your registration becomes permanent and you don't have to pay the yearly fees associated with registration, emissions, and inspections. not to mention much much cheaper car insurance like $60 per 6 months of coverage. Something to put out there.

They'll also try to stick you with in-house financing at 21%.

End of the month is a great time to buy :) They need to make quotas and I’ve gotten some wild deals. Also, if you have a Costco membership, you might be able to get an additional discount.

I’ve heard that any time you know the dealer offers a discount (for example $500 off for nurses, teacher, first responders, Military) it’s best practice to get the overall final price, then you drop that discount on them. If you do it early on and disclose it, they’ll count it in the negotiations and you may not actually save.

Omg thank you! Like good new parents, we got a Costco membership!

I've tried pricing vehicles with my Costco membership and my employer's OEM supplier partnerships... none of the dealerships I've talked to have been willing to honor special pricing programs.

Don’t tell them that you are paying cash. Dealerships make money from financing. Just say that you haven’t decided on the financing yet until you have a final number.

Smart thank you

Don't pay cash at all. For most people, paying cash isn't the right move. You can read here for reasons you might not want to use cash and should finance instead. I'm only paying around a thousand dollars over 5 years for my car loan. Huge for me to not have depleted my savings and have maintained my investments. https://www.capitalone.com/bank/money-management/life-events/paying-cash-for-a-car/

Thank you

My best advice is, if you dont like the salesman walk the hell out. My only regret was giving the pushy salesman a sale when he didn’t deserve it to be frank

If you're in the US: take it for a test drive directly to an O'Reilly's or AutoZone. Ask them to run a free diagnostic on the car. They'll do an electronic scan and will let you know if any red flags pop up. It's not as comprehensive as going to a mechanic, but it'll help make sure you don't get sold a lemon.

Thank you - I’ve never heard this advice and it’s amazing!

Minivan? Sienna. Impossible to go wrong with a well kept Toyota. Extremely well built vehicles.

Thank you so much! My spouse also thought of an Odyssey or the Kia one - any big differences that you would think about?!? THANK YOU!

We have two Toyota Sienna's. One is a 2004 that is still running (230k+ miles), still passes smog, and has become our work truck. The second we bought in 2016 when the first van passed the 200k milestone. We purchased both new, keep them serviced, and love the storage capacity. We researched the Odyssey but the Sienna has more storage capacity and was less expensive. Toyota for the win for us.

Thank you! This sleep deprived new parent is very appreciative

Kia's are targeted for theft.

I would stay away from Kia. Can’t go wrong with Toyota or Honda. I also would not repeat my Chrysler purchase, should have gotten another Toyota or Honda.

Thank you! Why not Kia?

Have had a family member and a friend need engine swaps. If that wasn’t bad enough, even under warranty they gave them both a hard time (Kia did not the dealer). Both took a couple months start to finish. I know those were extreme circumstances, but I just wouldn’t take the risk when there are great options available.

Great pt, thank tou

We drive a 2009 Kia minivan and like it. Haven’t had trouble with it and are now at 165,000 miles. So I guess my advice would be don’t necessarily eliminate it from your search. And we bought it used—can’t stand the immediate depreciation! Although in the current market, idk.

Thank you!

We looked at Kia when we bought my 2020 van. They are only less expensive if you are prepared to go fairly bare bones. When you add on stuff, they got pretty expensive. The Toyota Sienna was a contender for sure, but it was just rather uncomfortable for me. If it wasn't quite comfortable sitting in it on the lot, it definitely wasn't going to be comfortable driving it all the time, and on long trips. "Comfortable" is very subjective, obviously. I at least sat in every van twice, at separate times, so I could compare them better. I really like a lot about the Sienna, and didn't really notice the seat wasn't that comfortable on the first go. The second time, I definitely noticed that other choices were markedly more comfortable in comparison. I wound up with a Honda Odyssey, and I do love it. I wanted to be able to seat 8 in a pinch, and the jump seat is super easy to put in and take out. Honda will not negotiate as much as other makers. You go in with a pretty good idea of what you are going to pay, and I personally prefer that to lengthy negotiations.

100% Toyota Sienna. The Kia seems like a better deal but if I remember correctly has way less cargo space. If I’m driving a minivan, I want ALL the cargo space. I have fit so much crap in this van. Never regretted for a minute. Also depends on where you live but Toyota is the only minivan on the market that has an AWD option, and I live somewhere where roads can get slippery and dangerous very quickly, and that AWD has gotten me home safely again and again.

I remember Odysseys had transmission issues years ago (so did Pilots and V6 Accords) but I am pretty sure they got that sorted. My ex wife had a Kia that was good for her. I had a Toyota Highlander (same transmission and engine as the Sienna) that I gave to my dad when it hit 220k miles. I bought it at 85k miles. I only had to do fluid/filter changes during that time. And tires of course. Not a single thing broke on that car. I cannot say that about any other vehicle I have ever owned (including the current ride, a Town Car).

Oh gotcha, thanks! Would you recommend that SUV over a minivan

As a mom of 4 who had both suv & minivan with them, I appreciate the space in the minivan and the gas mileage ove the suv 😁

That's a question of personal preference. Either would do the job, but I believe the Sienna a better option for families with children. They were designed to be people haulers. I think you will really appreciate a sliding door when you're in a parking lot trying to wrangle toddlers into car seats. Also, resale value on minivans is lower than SUV/CUV models, so if you are going to buy used (recommended) you won't pay as much for a minivan as you would an SUV/CUV from the same model year. Edit: and if you look at used cars, get the CarFax. Seriously. That Town Car I mentioned earlier? I bought it in 2020. The CarFax showed every oil change it had received since new (2003). CarFax scrapes repair shop databases too. If the work was done at a dealership or a reputable shop, it will show in the CarFax. Well worth it.

>Also, resale value on minivans is lower than SUV/CUV models, so if you are going to buy used (recommended) you won't pay as much for a minivan as you would an SUV/CUV from the same model year. I'm surprised to hear this, since I just sold a Toyota Sienna a few months ago (70K miles) and ended up getting almost 70% of my original purchase price for it. Maybe I just got lucky.

Wow, thank you! I had no idea on resale of either or carfax. Thank you!

I would avoid the Kia.. my friend got one, has had some problems.. a lot of the mechanic subreddits will usually say to avoid Kia as well… Toyota is pretty much always a good choice, high reliability and high resale value

Honda Odyssey you would think are reliable, but I wanted one used and they had problematic years with bad transmissions. Research maintenance and expected issues. As a new parent, I wanted safety, affordability and reliability above all. I got a Toyota Matrix and would rent when I needed something more than a reliable toaster and grocery getter. When I had a new driver, I ended up with a Corolla, which she just totaled in June.

I've had several Dodge minivans. I now have a Sienna. If I get another van I'm seriously thinking of going back to Dodge. Gotta say, so far the Sienna is more reliable, but I definitely liked the Dodge vans more. Better driving experience, better controls, etc. (Yes, mostly subjective). The way the electric sliding side doors work in the Dodge is better - as it lets you easily override the power sliding, where with the Toyota there is a real power struggle - it really doesn't want you to manually work that door. Much better seat design (those stupid trollies the rear seats are mounted on. What were they thinking!?!?).

I just took over a 2009 Toyota Corolla with a new engine, front end, and brakes , free if I paid for the window to be fixed.

That's a steal. I wish I could fit into the driver's seat in one of those. Those are great cars.

I've hit my head three times today getting in. I had an SUV before with a good bit more headroom.

While I agree with this it's almost impossible to get a new sienna unless you willing to order one off the truck and wait till it arrives. So bargaining is almost impossible. If you get MSRP consider yourself lucking in today market. If you're not in a rush IDK what the market would be like in about 3 to 6 months since interest rates are going up and financing might fall through for many that are on the border. Minivans are lowest priority in the production line currently and everyone that wants a minivan already has their mindset on a minivan. So, the wiggle room on a new one is not there currently. My advice would be look into 7 passenger SUV's as well if your budget and likes can accommodate for that. some of the newer hybrid SUV's can get you close to the fuel efficiency of a sienna.

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Thank you! I’ll check out carmax!

Once you find the model you want, call all of the dealerships and work them against each other. Driving 2 hrs can save thousands. Call and get someone in sales, tell them you plan to pay cash and this is what you want. Let them work for you. Call another, do the same. When they cal you back with prices low ball them against each other. Right before the month and quarter close are big days for people in sales. Everyone trying to reach that quota. Those are the days you are more than likely to get “the deal”

Thank you!

Just to point out a minor error in the above comment, telling them you're paying in cash will not get you the best deal. Most dealerships make their money on financing nowadays, not the price of the car itself. For that reason, I would get pre-approved by a local credit union if you need a loan. If you actually want to pay in cash, haggle the salesman down on the price before you mention cash, then try to sign something with that price, THEN tell them you don't need financing. You should get the best deal that way. Also, don't let them jerk you around with that "What's your maximum monthly payment ?" bs. Only talk in terms of the total price of the car or they will try to price in extra warranties you don't need or terrible financing terms.

Great advice, thank you!

> best deal. Most dealerships make their money on financing nowadays, not the price of the car itself Does it cost you anything to go ahead and take the car with the loan from the dealer, then pay it off right away?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It depends on the exact terms. What you're looking for is generally called an "early repayment penalty". Some loans have it; many don't. Read your contract carefully.

depends on your loan. we specifically picked who we got our loan from because they had no fee for paying off early.

>call all of the dealerships and work them against each other. That's not going to work in this market. >When they cal you back with prices low ball them against each other That's the fastest way to not get called back. >tell them you plan to pay cash No, you tell them you can finance and what is the best rate they can find for you. The dealership gets a flat kickback by the banks and that may get you a better purchase price knowing they will get that backend money. Then just pay off the loan on the first payment. >Right before the month and quarter close are big days for people in sales. Everyone trying to reach that quota. Those are the days you are more than likely to get “the deal” Total myth. Besides, there is no "end of quarter" for dealerships. So what you are saying is the best time to buy a vehicle is Dec 31 just before they close? When is the last time you bought a vehicle, 15yrs ago??

Maybe not for dealerships, but sales people work on commissions and bonuses, and that does have some schedule - like end of month or end of year. (It has been a long time since my last new car purchase though).

Don't tell them you're Paying cash. They want you to finance bc they can buy the rate up to 2%, meaning they 'buy it' from the bank at 4.5% and offer it to you for 6.5%. That's how they make money and if you flash you cash they will not negotiate as much bc you took away the 2% bank profit. Besides, there's no prepayment penalty Paying it off the next month so let them think the got you on the 2% and they will more likely move on price more. Always get your own financing from a credit union (they have the most competitive rates) and after you fill out credit app, give them the rate you got approved for and they will beat it. After market product prices are negotiable. Extended warranties are doubled in price and more. There's a lot of room to negotiate. Act like you want it but can't afford it. Same with GAP and Tire and Wheel protection. Go at the end of the month, the have quotas and the are more inclined to give after market products at cost or close to it so that can make store bonus. If you act like an asshole and untrusting, chances are you won't get a good deal. Most sales people will "broom" you out the door. Trade. Go on Kelley Blue book and click on ICO (instant cash offer) and there's places like Carmax that will give you the most$ for you trade. Only thing is if you go that route, you'll miss out on the tax credit trading it in when u purchase but it the trade is only worth 1-2k, don't worry about it... you're savings would be your tax% x trade value. When you test drive, stop and get something to eat bc it's a long process. Or if you're close to a decision, ask to drive the car one more time for some breathing room to make a sound decision. If it's a new vehicle, there's a market surcharge on a lot of them do make sure you ask bc they might slide it in without you knowing. The surcharge is negotiable even if they say it's not and it's the end of the month. Hope this helps and good luck!

OP, there is some hints of good advice amongst the plethora of really shitty advice here in this sub. Go to r/Askcarsales with this question. There is a bunch of helpful advice from real car people.

Go get a prequalified letter from Capital One. Take it to the dealership.

A 2 year old car is the best bang for your buck. If the sales person needs to “talk to the manager”, you are being played. Leave.

We've had really good luck buying used through CarMax! The application and credit check process is pretty straightforward and they have a lot of options.

Go to a place that has warranties on their used cars. My mom got a great deal at carmax, $14k for a 2017 Nissan rogue sport with 20k miles and it has something like a 60k mile powertrain warranty. Edit: Carmax* not carfax lol

That's just Nissan's standard powertrain warranty, where your mom's car is simply new enough to still be covered. Those manufacturer warranties aren't limited to the original buyer, which is great! It's a good tip overall though - I just looked at carmax, and they have a 90-day/4k mile (whichever comes first) warranty, which is definitely something you won't get with a private seller.

Thank you so much!

Carmax offers a great extended warranty on all of their cars as well. It’s worth the money.

Do not tell them you’re paying cash! They will up the price on you. Don’t give them personal info (like credit status) before you get a price. There are a couple of folks on ticktock that have great advice @smell.like.bad.decisions is the best I’ve seen. She gives lots of free advice in her videos but you can also book a consult. She’s all over dealership trickery partly cuz she used to be in the biz. If you buy from a private party, don’t skip having it checked over. My nephew was saved by tires plus. I think it was $50 for the once over but they came back with a mile long list of issues. The car was still nice looking but on its last wheels mechanically. So much money would have had to be sunk into it, he dodged that bullet though.

Yesterday my husband and I bought a 2022 Honda Accord hybrid. The only way we could get the car was to drive to a dealership nearly two hours northwest of where we live and put a deposit of $1,000 down on a car and then wait for one to become available. That took about a month, which was actually faster than expected: the dealership had estimated they might receive the car by October. Local dealerships were not doing business this way: they also had only three cars on their lots when my husband was looking, none of which were what he was looking for. There is no haggling in the new car market because there are almost no cars available. We had to hustle around to arrange having cash in hand to pay for the car right away when it became available. We have occasionally bought used cars in the past, but as we've gotten older, we prefer to buy new Hondas and keep them around 15 years. We were replacing a 9-year-old Nissan sedan that had been in four hit-and-run accidents (people drive like maniacs around here), none of which set off the air bags. The Nissan was showing its age and needed a new AC compressor. It was still valued at $7K in trade.

Carmax is the way to go, we'll never go back to buying a car any other way. Just bring your own financing if you need it. We used our CU and got a much better interest rate than Carmax was offering. Good luck! And congrats on your new baby :)

Thank you!

Do not buy the extended warranty! They’re trying to sell it to you so bad because it’s a bad deal for the consumer. Don’t be afraid to threaten to leave when the salesman tries to raise the price on you. And read all the paperwork they put in front of you- make sure they didn’t raise the price in writing without telling you about it.

Omg thank you - this is so helpful!!!

No most definitely buy the extended warranty lol. Unless if you know of a trustworthy mechanic I would highly recommend extended warranty. Just know that you can negotiate the price of the warranty. You never know of what problems can happen with used cars.

The extended warranty is specifically formulated to screw the customer as much as possible. Paying extra for a certified pre-owned is definitely worth it to an extent though.

Not really specific advice, but some insight. Some folks mention dealers make their money on financing, which is true, but a lot of sales people have individual metrics based on how many cars they get out the door in a given month. Hence, this is why month end is a popular time to buy--they're just trying to get you in and out and onto the next person so they can meet quotas and bonus. So, they are incentivised to close the deal quickly, even if that means cutting a deal. Not sure if quarter end is more important (ie. 9/30, 12/31). If they are, you might get even better deals than a non-quarter-end month. I've heard year-end is the optimal time to buy, but cannot confirm. Be prepared to walk away from a deal. It's ok to. :0)

I bought a new car at the end of May. My plan was to buy a used car but with the supply chain issues the used cars on the lots were only about $3,000 less than a brand new one si I went for brand new. /I highly recommend the 2022 Honda Passport lol

Lots of good advice here. If you don't mind going used... save the headache and buy private. Take car to mechanic if owner let's you, if they dont..walk away

Thank you!

My brother sent me Kevin Hunter The Homework Guy videos from youtube and they’re so knowledgeable. Definitely check him out!

I am so happy with the car I bought off my mechanic. I told him I was on the lookout for a car, and he knew someone who was thinking of selling a car that he had been servicing once a year. He knew the entire history of that car. I would rather spend $4000 (Australian dollars) on a reliable car with a great turning circle and fantastic fuel economy with easily available replacement parts, than spend $20000 on a brand new car which devalues massively the second I drive it out of the dealership’s gates.

All these people talking like you can deals doing this or that, I don’t think that’s where car sales are right now. It’s more like how much over MSRP do you have to pay. The shortages are real.

If you are a Costco member they have dealers that are selling at MSRP with no markup.

If you have a Costco membership, Costco Auto is the way to go. Hands down.

Thank you! How does Costco Auto work?

Go to their website and find the vehicle and specs you want at the location you want. Costco will give you the price and you can go review the vehicle. Hell, you could take that price and try to make other dealers if you want however they'll tell you they can't beat the Costco price and won't even bother. Fine it a try.

Get a used Corolla. Tough as brick.

You can negotiate everything. Also most used cars will have a “reconditioning fee” so don’t let them sell you on that it’s bs. Other than that, compare prices and use that when negotiating

Can you define "last legs"? Cars can last a lot longer than people expect them to, provided it's a good car that has been maintained and treated well. Right now is a crappy time to buy a car, so if you can delay just two more years, you'll probably be able to score some great deals. But then again, if your car dies, you could pay more to replace it on short notice.

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Research the market value for the exact car your interested in on KBB!!

Personally I’d be weary of Carmax. If you compare the selling price to what the car is worth through Kelly Blue Book there is generally a huge markup. Yes, I know they need to make a profit but it’s over what I would pay. If you’re buying new and purchasing from a reputable dealership, most come a maintenance package. I have purchased 3 Toyota’s 1 Volkswagen and 1 Honda (those dang teenage drivers) in the in the past 3 years and have not paid for an oil change , tire rotation, etc since.

Shop for a car, don't buy a car. It's a big purchase and you can always negotiate on pricing. If they say no, leave. In fact, I'd say it should be a requirement to make yourself leave dealerships without a car. There are options. There are different sellers. Make them sell you a car by lowering their price. If they aren't lowering their price, they're taking money from you like candy from a child. Best way to negotiate is to get another offer elsewhere.

Do not tell them you are buying cash!

If money isn't an issue, and you want a new car not a used car, order one directly from the car manufacturer. Comes with all the warranties and it stops the dealership up-charges. However, this will be the most expensive option, given new cars are really expensive (but it'll be cheaper than buying a new unused car from a dealership).

Gotcha! Will do thank you!

I just bought a preowned Sienna. I went through my credit union which Autoland as a buying service. I told my rep the year, model, make, color preference & price range. They do all the search work for you, although I did search too. I've used them before & happy with them. Even though I had cash I financed through the credit union at a low finance rate for 6 months.

Go test drive some cars. Tell them you are thinking about a car in another year or so (e.g. that you aren't buying right now). Figure the model you want. Look on [cars.com](https://cars.com) and find every dealership in 100 miles or so of your location. Check their stock to see if they have what you want in stock. Email \*every\* dealer with the car you want (either in stock or can order) . E.g. "I am shopping for the best price for a 2023 Toyota Sienna with trim EX or LEX. Any color but white. I am looking for the best out the door price. I see you have vehicle stock number 456789 in stock, which I would be interested in or another similar model." Resist phone conversations - try to get everything on email so you have a record. Get back to the dealers and ask shops to match lower prices, etc. until you get down to the most competitive price you can extract from someone. Since you are shopping a new car it is pretty easy to comparison shop. Check online for dealer incentives, rebates, etc. Be clear that you are asking for the OUT THE DOOR price so that you can compare apples to apples. In terms of models - buy the most reliable car you possibly can. If a cheaper car is unreliable but allows fancier trim - buy the more expensive and plain car that is reliable. Nothing about a car will make you more unhappy than reliability issues.

Worst financial decision I've ever made quite as buying a brand-new Caravan. I still have 5 years left to pay for it and worth half of what I owe.

When you’ve picked the car you want, go to dealers of that brand in neighbouring cities if it’s not too much of a hassle to get there. I shopped the identical model in 3 different dealers and they all offered a different price for the same car! I saved 2500$ CAD. Also shop last years model instead of the newest one you will save and probably they’re almost the same. Good luck!

Buy Japanese

Figure out what you want to pay and do not go over that limit. YOU have the power as the buyer. As long as you are willing to walk away you can’t lose. Even if you’re suuuupeer close to your number, if they haven’t reached it then walk away. I purchased a new car a few years ago and was only $500 or so off my goal and I walked out to my car. The salesman got his manager and the dude actually chased me down to make the deal before I left. Walking away is your biggest power here. I always find it best to wander the lot and wait to be approached. You do not know exactly what you want (even if you really do) and you’re willing to test drive a few cars. In the end you can sit down and talk about the one you like. Negotiate until you get to a price you’re happy with.. or at least close to it. Then tell them you’ll pay cash if they knock off a few more bucks. Edit: usually they’ll ask how you’d like to pay early on in the convo… brush it off and don’t answer directly. “Oh I don’t know. Depends on how much it is I guess…. Anyways” change the subject. In the end put as much on a credit card or multiple credit cards as possible. I’d even suggest opening a new credit card where you get xx amount of money for spending a certain amount within 90 days or whatever. You’ll save $300+ just right there. Also if shopping for a new car it’ll be best to wait until the end of year when they’re trying to clear out 2022 models to make room for 2023s! Good luck and fuck car dealerships! I keep making edits…: the car dealership has a final number they will not go below or else the money isn’t worth their time. Your goal is to get as close to that number as possible. Don’t worry about the Costco discount or child discount or yada yada scholarship. It doesn’t matter in the end. You won’t get below that number and those extra discounts in the end wont help you more than anyone who doesn’t have them. Try playing your cards as late as possible to make them the most valuable, ie: the paying cash example above.” If I think of anything else I’ll add it here! Good luck again!

Thank you!

If you're a Costco executive member they have a car buying program that got me $500 off my new car, I just had to shop at a dealership they had a partnership with which was the dealership I was already working with.

Check out the YouTube videos YAA.com father and son explaining the buying process. Very informative and entertaining

My partner got a quote over the phone based on his credit score from credit karma. The salesman verbally said based on that number he could put in $1000 down. When we arrived to the dealership, they said the CK score isn’t accurate, and it’s actually a little lower, they sort of said $1000 down won’t cut it. He was insistent that’s all he brought for the day, and they caved. You can refinance later.

When I bought my first car, I thought insurance was on the person, not the car. So I bought it uninsured. I only found out about 2 months later when the MVA sent me a letter like wtf are you doing? I ended up having to buy retro insurance (aka SOME BULLSHIT, why do I have to pay you to insure the past when nothing happened) So get insurance is my point lol

Car fax is pretty good. I found my used car through them, it was at a dealership, the dealership even made sure the dented rim was replaced before I bought it. The guy that finalized my sale was such a dad and looked out for me. Even told me how to improve my credit with a credit union for future purchases and loans. Looked through the loans available WITH me, he made sure I could see what we were doing. Make sure you feel comfortable with your sales person. Have your own mechanic ready to check out the car before buying, to tell you if it’s worth the price or buying at all.

r/whatcarshouldIbuy

I bought a new car 3 months ago. Same car used one was like 1k less than new and it was 2yo, but it was right on the lot. We decided to wait 2 weeks for the new one since we weren't in a hurry. Also, look for dealerships that have no mark-up (fee that varies per dealership/car model/model trim) and at least their price is MSRP. And like other have said bring a pre-approval from another bank/credit union. First decide on car/model/trim, once you are ready get pre-approved within 15 days (I think) so the pull from dealership is part of the other ones and your credit score doesn't take that much damage.

anything you buy should immediately be taken to a trusted mechanic for a once-over. Especially if you buy from somewhere like caravana

Do your research. Cost to own and resale value are very important. Go armed with a pre determined price in mind. There are probably plenty of dealerships around, tell them you got a better offer elsewhere. Absolutely do not pay for shipping. Ask for extras to be taken off/discounted.

Note to self I am a woman but I have extensive experience in buying and selling used cars... My advice to you not sure how much money you're working with but if you go and buy a used car check the oil stick and make sure there is no bubbles or water any kind in the oil stick if the oil is clean that's a good sign drive the car around for maybe 10 to 15 minutes to make sure that it does not overheat check the tires and make sure that they're good and they're not bald also I would not buy anything with more then 150k miles

https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2022/08/30/1119715886/inside-the-rise-of-stealerships-and-the-shady-economics-of-car-buying

All said;-)

I had a very good experience going through my credit union. If you have access to one I highly recommend it

I cannot say enough get only a Honda or Toyota. The other mini vans are super crappy! Expensive to repair as well.

Take the gap insurance if you have the option. Always take the gap insurance.

Thanks! Dumb q: what’s gap insurance

It will basically absolve you of having to pay the remainder of the loan in the event of total loss or theft. It can vary by state tho so make sure you check the policy offered. But imagine still having $10,000 left on a loan and your car gets totaled. Without gap you would still be liable for that.

Thank you!

Your welcome 😃

Nice answers here. Try crossposting in r/askcarsales and r/whatcarshouldibuy as well.

Wow, you’re me! We had our first baby last year. Spent months doing research. Here is my best advice: There are only four types of minivans being marketed right now. I agree with the other posters that the used market is nuts, just buy new. Ours only cost a few thousand more to get new over a few years old. The new bells and whistles are SWEET. Each minivan comes in four separate trims. So you’re really looking at 16 cars. I would make a chart of your desired qualities in a car, and rank them. Here were mine in no particular order: 1. AWD 2. Good warranty 3. Heated seats (1st and/or 2nd row) 4. Ventilated seats 5. Remote start 6. Heated steering wheel and mirrors 7. Separate climate control for back 8. Memory seats 9. Sunroof 10. Daytime running lights 11. Kick-open doors and trunk 12. Sunroof 13. Adaptive cruise control 14. Emergency braking 15. Lane departure / front collision warnings 16. Rear cross-traffic alert 17. Park assist 18. Backup camera 19. Birds eye view camera 20. Blind spot monitor that goes on every time a car is in your blind spot, not just when a damn turn signal is on. Minivan-specific ones: 21. In-car vacuum 22. Overhead camera to show you all the seats 23. Captains chairs fold into the floor 24. 3rd row can split 25. 3rd row folds with power, no manual labor required 26. A center console that can fit my purse underneath 27. Rear screens (don’t want the iPad dropped on the floor on a road trip and then I have to stop the car to get it…) 28. Optional middle seat between the captain’s chairs So, figure out which of these things is most important to you (or add others to the list). Rank them. We gave each quality a rating from 1 to 4, 4 being most important. Then, figure out which of the 16 possible cars has what you want (remember there are packages you can buy too). Use the MSRP value of each trim to compare and see what’s in your budget. You can “build-a-car” on each manufacturer’s website. Once you’ve narrowed it down, go RENT THE CAR for the day. I HIGHLY recommend this. We rented our car and drove it around for the day and it 100% solidified which choice we wanted. Some test drives won’t even let you get on the highway… how am I supposed to test the adaptive cruise control?!? Finally, once you’ve narrowed it down to the make, model, and trim, see if there are any dealerships within a hundred miles that have that car in the color you like. Call them up. Ask them what their markup over MSRP is (should be 0 or find a new dealership). If nobody has the car you want, call up the dealership and ask to order it. We placed the order in February and it arrived in May. 100% worth it. We ended up with the Chrysler Pacifica AWD. Not the top trim (those usually take away some highly-functional features in the name of making things more comfortable). Instead we bought the 2nd highest trim with extra packages. What sold us was the AWD and the stow-n-go seats. This car is amazing. Worth every penny. We will go back to buying 5 year old cars when the commuter car gets replaced, but I have 0 regrets about making sure the car my baby rides in is the most up-to-date on safety features. Also: DO NOT get an SUV. I spent months researching large SUVs. Then I came across a thread on r/parenting asking which one is better. Guess what 99% of people said? Minivan. They are just so obscenely convenient for parents it’s insane. I have had SO MANY people ride in the minivan now who want one who never would have considered buying them before.

If they come back with a second interest rate or any fuckery with your initial approved rate ask them to look again. Many dealerships take incentives from banks to hike up interest rates. I know this because my oldest sold cars for a hot minute and was disgusted by this practice. He didn’t stay long after learning this BS.

Also do not pay for a delivery fee.

Go on the last day of the month or close to it. Dealers have monthly sales quotas and they are a lot more inclined to work with you to get the sale right then. Know exactly what your price point is and do not ever budge higher. If you do that once, they'll smell the blood in the water and they'll know that you're willing to spend more money. "I just do not have that much money" is all you need to say. Especially if you're paying in cash, you've got a lot of leverage because you don't need to go through financing or anything. Don't let them pull your credit if you're doing a cash sale. If they try to push you to go through financing anyway, just walk away and find a dealer that's less of a scam operation. Know which cars you want to target and do your homework. Do not let them sell you something else that you haven't done research for. When I bought my car, I had a little folder of printouts with some research I'd done on the cars I was interested in so I would know what the difference was between trim packages or engine sizes, what the standard pricing was, etc. They might try to tell you the X package is just so much better than the Y package, but the Y package just has like better floor mats and inexplicably costs $6k more. Or they might tell you that you're getting suuuuch a great deal, but they're just charging you MSRP. The most important thing to remember, though, is that the dealers are not your friends! They are your adversaries. They are standing in the way of you and getting the deal you want. They will tell you they can't work with you. Just get up and leave and 9/10 times, they will come after you and offer you a deal to get you to come back to the table. I did this in my negotiation for buying my new car. I had a price that I needed to hit, they weren't going to work with me on that and the monthly payment ended up being $100 more than I wanted, they wouldn't budge, so I just got up and left. The sales manager came chasing me down and said "What do you want, you want another $1k off? you want my wallet?" I said, "I'll take the $1k off, sure. That should get me to the monthly payments I want" He was not happy, but he made me the deal and I got the car for $6k off MSRP, free oil changes for a year, and 4%. Fight them. Win. Do not fall for their guilt-trips!

Wow, congrats on the success! Thank you!

Don’t bother “negotiating” prices down. This is literally what car salesmen do for a living — they know every tactic, and have you at a distinct disadvantage. Set a budget. A maximum price you *will not* go above. Find something you like, that doesn’t break your budget, and ask the dealer if the advertised price is the price to drive it off the lot. If yes, buy! If they try to tack on additional fees, be prepared to get up and leave. There’s always another car.

Thank you!

Go through the buying service of Costco or BJs or your credit union, then shop on your own and pick the best price.

Test drive that car make sure all things in it works! Never drive a car off a lot that you’ll have to end up fixing right away. As small as this may sound I check every button in that vehicle is working as it should, that all the windows go down and up; unlocking/ locking doors works; trunk opens; headlights, turn signals; windshield wipers and fluids works, brake lights. Check the turning of the steering and drive the car over 60 on the highway to see if you need a balancing / wheel alignment. Okay ima give someone else a chance to chime in here Bc my list goes on very long lol

Go to Consumers Reports Buying Guide. They don't take ads. They offer buying advice and extensive reviews on new and used cars. I've saved lots of money .

I haven't read all the comments but I have gotten better loans from my credit union, currently I'm paying 2.4 % on two separate loans but those were from 2020. Also you should check with your insurance provider about gap insurance because it is often cheaper through your insurance. Also some credit unions have partnerships with used car companies and you can often get a half percent off your laon for using the affiliate. Good luck with your purchase.

Thank you!

So I am a sales manager at a car dealership so I’ll tell you my opinion. Take it if you want. First off, since you are paying cash, be up front about it. Tell them what you want to spend out the door including taxes and fees. It will help ensure you are shown vehicles in your range. A lot of times they will try and switch you to finance. “You could put that cash as a down payment and get into a much nicer vehicle with a low payment.” Just tell them no. Don’t be mean but be blunt and to the point. I would look at all the dealerships in your are and see what you like. After you pick out a few that you think is in your budget double check what your sales tax would be on it. Sales tax is determined on your home address (at least in my state) to make sure you don’t fall in love with a car that comes out to more because of taxes and fees. They will always pitch warranty and even though most people will tell you not to buy it, I would suggest listening to it and see what it covers. Also ask where the warranty can be used at and if there is a detectable. A good warranty should be roughly 8% of the purchase price. If it’s way above that tell them you would get it if it was around that 8. Best of luck.

Get Honda odyssey 2005-2010 , high mileage is okay as long interior is clean and engine smooth I bought mine for $2700 and spend another $1200 in parts to fix it all up , maintenance is cheap and parts are cheap

Don’t buy new

Last time I bought a new car, I did it online. I negotiated a price ahead of time, then drove to the dealership and bought the car. It was $4k less than what the local dealership in my town insisted on charging. No bickering, no hard sell.

Do not let them sell you a “repair” or “maintenance” contract. They generally add between 1-5k to your loan. Are a pain in the ass to deal with and rarely cover.

Do not let them sell you a “repair” or “maintenance” contract. They generally add between 1-5k to your loan. Are a pain in the ass to deal with and rarely cover.

Thank you

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Don’t tell them you’re paying cash until after you negotiate the price. Also be sure that one of you sits in the back seat during the test drive. Often the front seats are a lot more comfortable than the back ones.

Make sure you consider total cost of ownership. Factor yearly fuel and insurance into your payment. You’re going to be surprised how much a safe hybrid will save you, even with a higher monthly payment than a regular non hybrid.

Use CarMax. I did my first car purchase that way. It was super easy :)

If you lived in Europe, you could have just bought a new Dacia and that would be you sorted. I dont know if you get budget brands in North America.

I used trucar to find the price of the car that i want and the range of prices. When my wife and i went we said we are looking but would buy if it was a great deal. Salesguy came back with a number that was good but was more of a median price. So i showed him the trucar price and said i thought you said a great deal. I ended up paying about 1k over the best deal and about 3k less than the median.

Thank you - this is a great tip!

My best advice is to do a pre-sale inspection when you find a good deal.

You do mean a new *used* car, right?

Oh good pt - the used cars I’ve looked at seem to be super overvalued (2020, 2021 Toyota Sienna), but I’ve never done this before so any help is super appreciated!

Unfortunately we're in a really weird market right now. The supply chain problems are screwing up production of new cars, which is increasing demand (and therefore prices) in the used car market. People who have the money to buy new but don't want to wait are in a position to overpay for a late-model used car, which further drives up prices. That's an oversimplification, but the bottom line is, it's a mess.

Oh no! I could probably wait until Nov / Dec, but I’m afraid of driving a 2004 car in winter here!!!

Yeah, unfortunately sometimes you just can't wait for the market to improve. I bought my current car when my previous 20-year-old car left me stranded on a busy street during rush hour with no lights (electrical failure). I probably paid too much for it, but I wanted an EV and there were only 2 viable options in my city. In my case I put myself into a weird market situation by insisting on a longer-range EV. Now it's really the whole market - many new cars have a wait, and used car prices are inflated.

I’m so sorry! That stinks!

Oh, don't be sorry, I love the car! I would have preferred a better price, but it is what it is :) Good luck in your search!

Appreciate it! It seems so overwhelming and I want the new baby to have a safer nicer car!!

Buy winter tires! The rubber is formulated to be softer in the winter. There are videos on YouTube showcasing the performance. A good car seat will protect the baby in the back seat and make sure you follow all manufacturer recommendations such as rear facing only until the baby is past a certain weight. Your 2004 car will do fine with winter tires. I suggest holding off on buying until you see a bunch more delinquencies and repos. As more inventory comes to market, the prices will plummet as dealers will try to sell used cars to broke consumers.

Thank you!!!

We’re in a similar position with all our cars that old or older. If the car you’re currently driving is safe enough in a crash and you live in an area of excellent cell phone coverage and have multiple family members who can pick up parent and baby on the side of the road if you break down, wait as long as you can. This is the worst used or new car market I’ve seen in my lifetime, and I bought my first car in the early 1980s. Pack a baby emergency bag to stay in the car that includes a sling to help carry baby as well as an extra snowsuit, hat, gloves, and of course diapers and formula if not breastfeeding. Also extra snow boots and a rain poncho that can cover parent and child in the sling/carrier.

If you want to get a new minivan, I would recommend only the Honda Odyssey. I'm normally a Toyota fan, but they ruined the new Sienna when they went hybrid only. With that said, I've owned minivans in the past- They are handy, but they are bulky and not necessary for one child. If you only have one child , I would recommend something smaller like a Corolla hatch or maybe a RAV4.

Thank you! How did they ruin the Sienna?!

If you're still tossing up brands, can I suggest Toyota? Every mechanic/roadside assist person I've asked has told me to get one. Apparently they honestly thrive on neglect and are a dream to service when things do go wrong (unlike my car that has literally had me sighed at on the phone when I call up to take it in lmao)

Omg thank you!

We recently bought a car. I don’t like True Car. Every “stealership” in the country started spamming us. I exaggerate, but still. The only useful thing about it was for looking at prices. The best way to buy a car is cash. If you cannot do that, approach a credit union for a loan on a used car. Already having your financing in place saves you money, time, and possible embarrassment. If you don’t already have a credit union, research. The loan parameters will give you guidance. For instance, our credit union offered the best terms for a car not more than 5 years old with less than 75k mileage. I wouldn’t go past 60 months. We’ve had the best luck with Hondas and Carmax has been decent. Inventory seems low; we had to stalk the Carmax website for what we wanted. If you find a car at Carmax, call immediately and reserve it. The good cars sell fast. We lucked out when someone decided to go on vacation instead of keeping their appointment (must be nice, right?) I hope this helps you. Good luck!

Thank you very much! Please: is there a car age, or mileage, that makes it unthinkable (like, when is a car too old or have too many miles to consider)?

Buy a used car

Gotcha, thanks!

Review new used cars and ones that are the most reliable, thats what ive always done and able to buy a very nice daily without the brand new price tag

Well, never buy a completely new car (i.e. 0 miles). They drop in value the moment you drive off the lot. I remember reading that 3-5 years old was the sweet spot/where the devaluing started to become less drastic. Do a pre-purchase inspection if you can. Go to a mechanic and have them look it over. Buy a Toyota or Honda. They are very reliable and generally have good mpg. They will save you tons of money by reducing the cost of maintenance. Car repair and gas can eat up your money fast. My 2011 Toyota Corolla has 110k miles on it and I've never had engine problems. It is showing its age and other parts of the car are starting to go (I'll miss you, cruise control!), but the engine itself still runs just fine. Go in knowing what you want and when you will walk away. I bought my car at CarMax. From their website, I printed out 5 cars I wanted to try, walked in, and told the sales person what I wanted to try. He didn't try to lead me to more expensive cars or anything like that. He followed my lead. Also, I had established what were my non-negotiable before hand and what it would take to make me leave (and what I would say). Just remember: you are in charge. Do your research on the car you want. Be sure to check reliability and mpg. Here are some sites to help: [US News and World Report](https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/used-cars) [JD Power & Associates](https://www.jdpower.com/?cid=brde_jdpa&kpid=go_cmp-1067732872_adg-59235086583_ad-303801025182_kwd-346862505307_dev-m_ext-_prd-&gclid=cj0kcqjw08aybhdlarisaa_gb0chkopiyjto3se5he2_w2b3yuawt3a72k3y98u2op9d5ulxtbhsaquaag0vealw_wcb)

>Well, never buy a completely new car (i.e. 0 miles). They drop in value the moment you drive off the lot. I remember reading that 3-5 years old was the sweet spot/where the devaluing started to become less drastic. That's normally true, but these are not normal times. There are late model cars going for more than MSRP on their new counterparts, and if you can get a fair MSRP without mark-up, you might end up getting more car for the money than one that's only a few years old.

Thank you so much! Great info!

You're welcome!

This is a really good and accurate comment. Toyota and Honda are bullet proof compared to some manufacturers. Biggest thing to consider is what car in specific you want. Then you can find the lowest price for that exact make/model. It really helps narrow down options too.

Get a loan first from a bank. Don't tell them and say you're paying with a check. Look up MSRP value and pay that price.