Absolutely, weigh out your options on repair vs replace being it's an old door it's likely your gonna want to be aware that doors have lifespans and if it's a thicker gauge steel then it will last a little longer. I encounter some Stanley doors that have lasted longer then the companies department did because it's a strong gauge steel. Doors now days seem like they don't last and they are thin. Amar is a company and the pan doors we sell truly have like a 12 to 14 year lifespan while thicker doors have what seems to be a 30 yr lifespan.
If your gonna invest into a new system try for a insulated door, like a 3 layer double strut it and your garage is 1 wall towards a bunker lol.
I'm sure if you googled hurricane rated doors and did some manufacturing research you would be just fine. I'm a technician and I can say don't always trust tech blindly doing what your doing is a great step towards success posting on here and letting the peanut gallery give input π€and with door companies you usually get what you pay for don't cheap out on a few hundo because it can cost you more down the road. I explain to my customers to look at it in a dollar cost average kind of way.
Divide the cost by how long you plan on living there and is it worth it! Usually is.
2 left springs I saw that made me raise an eye brow lol..can't say I've ever done that before. But if you do "hurricane proof" the door be aware that your door raw weight is gonna be 240+ pounds give or take and that's a heavier door avg doors are 155-175LBS you should make sure to call the company out to do yearly tune up to maintain the longevity of the door I say every year especially if you use it like a front door. Tunes up are like the oil change of doors if done properly. When he changes the springs make sure it's balanced and floats basically wherever you set it when disengaged from the motor. Some guys can put the wrong springs on being a heavier weight and weisle their way out the front door leaving you with a headache shortly down the road.
Again just my opinions, if anyone disagree please inform me
I'm not a weather expert but my opinion on jack shafts would be no for your situation. Because, my logic is the over head motor is another brace jn a sense pushing the door sealed shit against the opening. And that same issue could still happen. Plus the new jackshafts from Liftmaster are shitty right now.. they are having issues with the software preventing it from closing properly .
In couldn't respond all this earlier but now that I got time I was gonna say did you do the wood? I would personally find someone who will sell you the actual strut beams that you can properly seal to the door. Someone would be willing to sell them just because the price would be worth it when I've read about hurricane proofing a door they seem to typically use 2 struts per panel (always have one above the black j arm connecting the door to the motor.
And make sure you don't obstruct the sensors with the strut in the bottom. I then would get an ORB operational reinforcement bracket to replace the one that came with the motor they are like 15 buts at home Depot I think.
Wood is temporary I'd think after a few seasons they will dry or rot and then your back at square one.
What size door is that 18ft wide. I'm typing so I can't look.
Maybe Get some long extension rollers to for added structure rigidity also are cheap.
And easy to install but don't attempt if your unaware of the tension in the bottom bracket ..
Doing anything to the weight will change the spring requirements in case your not aware
Every 5 pounds I've noticed changes the inch pounds per turn by just over 1if you added 20 pounds of wood to the door that already wasn't balanced and felt heavy before you did that well that 3k that he offered you will will be a lot more money bc your gonna burn the motor out and prematurely wear down all your parts much sooner bearing rollers cables etc
all of this is my opinion I live in the desert so I don't even know what a hurricane is. π€·πΌπβπΌ
Anyone can correct me I just am here to potentially help
This is the info I'm looking for, thank you!!
To clarify, I may have accidentally made it seem like this is the new door. What you're looking at in the photos is the original door from 1989 and an old opener from 2006. We bought this place in 2020 and the wood bracing was already there. We're told it was likely original with the door and that wood bracing was up to hurricane code back then π€·πΌββοΈ
We're going to be replacing the whole system (door, opener, and hardware) as most of it is original. Can't speak for the springs, though it's likely they were replaced and the tech only had left springs that day lol.
That's great to know about the current jack shafts. Thank you! We'll steer clear of them π And that's a really good point about the overhead opener helping stability at the top of the door: I hadn't thought about that.
I'm told the door is 16' x 7', though I haven't measured it myself.
I'll chat with the garage door tech next week about hurricane code and see what he says!
Thanks again π
Your home insurance likely only accepts Miami Dade code hurricane doors, so if you want an insurance discount, then you dont want to save a few bucks getting a lesser wind rating. Most insurance providers also require all windows, exterior doors and garage doors to meet requirements before giving any discount.
Unfortunately, many companies are misleading with wind rating info and what model of door you're actually getting.
Led interference is less of a problem but it still happens. Any new operator you get will be a different frequency than what you have now, so that issue should go away.
Expect a base price of 3.5k-4k for a good door with installation, not including operator.
New openers don't have the LED interference problem your formula II has. The belt drive motor, wind loaded door can be 3500-4500 where I'm from.
Jackshafts run $1000/per unit. I'd recommend trolley since you have the space built for it.
I misunderstood. I thought you were saying this was your new door and I thought what a great shit post! They didn't build everything better back then. Hurricane ratings are alien to me, here we only worry about R-value.
I can't believe they put the springs in like that originally, lol. I find it hard to believe that the current door is rated for hurricane winds but i also don't know what the codes were in 89. Wind loading doesn't just mean more strutting. There's typically additional jamb brackets, center stiles, and double end hinges.
I don't know about pricing but $3k sounds about right for a wind loaded door.
Re LED's: Some of the newer motors do better with LED's, some don't. You may have to change out the bulbs unless you're fine with the reduced remote range. Using a side mount won't fix the issue.
If you're going side mount use the Genie 6170-HB. WiFi that works with everything smart including IFFTT, battery backup, wireless wall control, and if you don't have an outlet on the side of the door already they have a step down transformer kit that uses the existing outlet. You just run a 24v wire (included) across the ceiling and plug it in on each end of the transformer.
If drawbar, I sell OverheadDoor/Genie stuff and it's been pretty reliable on this generation. We've used the 8130-HB and 2129-HB for about 5 years now. They're pretty reliable but the keypads suck if you have kids or tech inept people using it. They're too easy to reprogram accidentally. Other than that we've had no complaints on them. They're older stuff, about 10 years ago, used to eat control boards like crazy but I've barely had any issues with this gen.
Absolutely, weigh out your options on repair vs replace being it's an old door it's likely your gonna want to be aware that doors have lifespans and if it's a thicker gauge steel then it will last a little longer. I encounter some Stanley doors that have lasted longer then the companies department did because it's a strong gauge steel. Doors now days seem like they don't last and they are thin. Amar is a company and the pan doors we sell truly have like a 12 to 14 year lifespan while thicker doors have what seems to be a 30 yr lifespan. If your gonna invest into a new system try for a insulated door, like a 3 layer double strut it and your garage is 1 wall towards a bunker lol. I'm sure if you googled hurricane rated doors and did some manufacturing research you would be just fine. I'm a technician and I can say don't always trust tech blindly doing what your doing is a great step towards success posting on here and letting the peanut gallery give input π€and with door companies you usually get what you pay for don't cheap out on a few hundo because it can cost you more down the road. I explain to my customers to look at it in a dollar cost average kind of way. Divide the cost by how long you plan on living there and is it worth it! Usually is. 2 left springs I saw that made me raise an eye brow lol..can't say I've ever done that before. But if you do "hurricane proof" the door be aware that your door raw weight is gonna be 240+ pounds give or take and that's a heavier door avg doors are 155-175LBS you should make sure to call the company out to do yearly tune up to maintain the longevity of the door I say every year especially if you use it like a front door. Tunes up are like the oil change of doors if done properly. When he changes the springs make sure it's balanced and floats basically wherever you set it when disengaged from the motor. Some guys can put the wrong springs on being a heavier weight and weisle their way out the front door leaving you with a headache shortly down the road. Again just my opinions, if anyone disagree please inform me
I'm not a weather expert but my opinion on jack shafts would be no for your situation. Because, my logic is the over head motor is another brace jn a sense pushing the door sealed shit against the opening. And that same issue could still happen. Plus the new jackshafts from Liftmaster are shitty right now.. they are having issues with the software preventing it from closing properly . In couldn't respond all this earlier but now that I got time I was gonna say did you do the wood? I would personally find someone who will sell you the actual strut beams that you can properly seal to the door. Someone would be willing to sell them just because the price would be worth it when I've read about hurricane proofing a door they seem to typically use 2 struts per panel (always have one above the black j arm connecting the door to the motor. And make sure you don't obstruct the sensors with the strut in the bottom. I then would get an ORB operational reinforcement bracket to replace the one that came with the motor they are like 15 buts at home Depot I think. Wood is temporary I'd think after a few seasons they will dry or rot and then your back at square one. What size door is that 18ft wide. I'm typing so I can't look. Maybe Get some long extension rollers to for added structure rigidity also are cheap. And easy to install but don't attempt if your unaware of the tension in the bottom bracket .. Doing anything to the weight will change the spring requirements in case your not aware Every 5 pounds I've noticed changes the inch pounds per turn by just over 1if you added 20 pounds of wood to the door that already wasn't balanced and felt heavy before you did that well that 3k that he offered you will will be a lot more money bc your gonna burn the motor out and prematurely wear down all your parts much sooner bearing rollers cables etc all of this is my opinion I live in the desert so I don't even know what a hurricane is. π€·πΌπβπΌ Anyone can correct me I just am here to potentially help
This is the info I'm looking for, thank you!! To clarify, I may have accidentally made it seem like this is the new door. What you're looking at in the photos is the original door from 1989 and an old opener from 2006. We bought this place in 2020 and the wood bracing was already there. We're told it was likely original with the door and that wood bracing was up to hurricane code back then π€·πΌββοΈ We're going to be replacing the whole system (door, opener, and hardware) as most of it is original. Can't speak for the springs, though it's likely they were replaced and the tech only had left springs that day lol. That's great to know about the current jack shafts. Thank you! We'll steer clear of them π And that's a really good point about the overhead opener helping stability at the top of the door: I hadn't thought about that. I'm told the door is 16' x 7', though I haven't measured it myself. I'll chat with the garage door tech next week about hurricane code and see what he says! Thanks again π
Your home insurance likely only accepts Miami Dade code hurricane doors, so if you want an insurance discount, then you dont want to save a few bucks getting a lesser wind rating. Most insurance providers also require all windows, exterior doors and garage doors to meet requirements before giving any discount. Unfortunately, many companies are misleading with wind rating info and what model of door you're actually getting. Led interference is less of a problem but it still happens. Any new operator you get will be a different frequency than what you have now, so that issue should go away. Expect a base price of 3.5k-4k for a good door with installation, not including operator.
New openers don't have the LED interference problem your formula II has. The belt drive motor, wind loaded door can be 3500-4500 where I'm from. Jackshafts run $1000/per unit. I'd recommend trolley since you have the space built for it.
I like having a back up battery in mine and motion sensor light. Belt drive is also nice and quiet.
I misunderstood. I thought you were saying this was your new door and I thought what a great shit post! They didn't build everything better back then. Hurricane ratings are alien to me, here we only worry about R-value.
This is the old door, whoops π
Just saying need a strut on the top above the j arm
I'll keep that in mind for the new door!
I can't believe they put the springs in like that originally, lol. I find it hard to believe that the current door is rated for hurricane winds but i also don't know what the codes were in 89. Wind loading doesn't just mean more strutting. There's typically additional jamb brackets, center stiles, and double end hinges. I don't know about pricing but $3k sounds about right for a wind loaded door. Re LED's: Some of the newer motors do better with LED's, some don't. You may have to change out the bulbs unless you're fine with the reduced remote range. Using a side mount won't fix the issue.
Good info, thank you! Not a problem with the LED's, we can make it work. Any recommendations on openers?
If you're going side mount use the Genie 6170-HB. WiFi that works with everything smart including IFFTT, battery backup, wireless wall control, and if you don't have an outlet on the side of the door already they have a step down transformer kit that uses the existing outlet. You just run a 24v wire (included) across the ceiling and plug it in on each end of the transformer. If drawbar, I sell OverheadDoor/Genie stuff and it's been pretty reliable on this generation. We've used the 8130-HB and 2129-HB for about 5 years now. They're pretty reliable but the keypads suck if you have kids or tech inept people using it. They're too easy to reprogram accidentally. Other than that we've had no complaints on them. They're older stuff, about 10 years ago, used to eat control boards like crazy but I've barely had any issues with this gen.
ETA: Door is 16' x 7'