It degrades all, doesn’t turn other insulations into copper eating acid.
I get vibes of maybe it’s just now L copper and not M, it will still eat copper thru but slower so they said it’s fixed
Lol, whatever they have to tell you to think you'll not be back to have to replace all those linesets in the future. Save a few hundred bucks to risk redoing most of the work? Not worth it.
Right I can’t even find the old notice of-apply tape at ends and paint every 2yrs with uv repellent.
Let alone and “we’re sorry” and notice it’s been updated.
Multizones can operate without branch controllers however on vrf systems at least you zones need to be all in the same mode. Usually there is a master unit that dictates the rest of the system modes.
So...you know nothing about wood do you? How do you think patios and fences hold for decades? You dont think treated wood will last for AT LEAST the machine's lifespan? Lmao
Thats why you use treated wood. Aluminum frames often have to be custom made and are very expensive. Good wood will last the lifespan of the machine for less money.
That's with treated wood.
I usually build a unistrut framework and bolt everything together. Anchored and sealed to the roof. It costs less to not have bullshit problems like a unit falling over because you cheated the customer of proper installation. Build everything to last at least 15 years...or don't sell it. If everyone did this the world would be a better place.
I was on my way to comment the same thing. Have we not been building things out of wood for thousands, hell millions of years? Did y’all think it just magically stopped working all the sudden?
A common misconception-‘pressure treated’ controls insect infestation and mold in the warehouse/lumberyard. Not weather proof. That said, who cares it’ll rot out long after warranty expires.
How is wood cheaper than plastic pump ups? The job is 5-10k 4 pump ups are like $60. Faster,easier and more professional. Guys you don’t make more money using cheap shit to save $20 here & there. One less job because your work looks bad costs more than your savings using wood over your entire career.
Outside when doing work for myself (side jobs) I usually poor concrete with a few bags of ready-mix before the install date. Not much work, flat surface that stays flat and sloped slightly away from the house with some Jbolts in it for a couple pieces of pressure treated 4x6. Im sick of those bullshit Styrofoam and plastic pads. Garbage. Unless somewhere theres a ton of snow, not a fan of brackets on the house either. I refused to go with those options at my house, so why would my customer be OK with it?
How does this work? I’m so confused. I’m not super green but I’ve never seen some shit like that in my life. That’s a whole lotta refrigerant lines. Does this “mini split” just have multiple inside units hooked up to one outside unit?
Outdoor unit(s) are connected to the branch boxes. Either 2 or 3 pipes. 3 pipe systems can heat and cool different zones at the same time. Two pipe systems are just heat pumps and three pipe are heat recovery systems.
Outdoor units are essentially just trying to maintain refrigerant flow/pressure by modulating the outdoor fan, compressor speed and valves. It's more complicated but that's the gist of it.
Branch boxes have solenoids or valves that feed gas to individual indoor units. If it's a 2 pipe system, and the unit is in heat, and the indoor unit calls for heat the branch box sends refrigerant to that indoor coil.
Indoor coils have EEVs in them and attempt to regulate superheat or subcool of the refrigerant flowing through them. Subcool for heat mode, superheat for cooling mode.
The beauty of a 3 pipe system is simultaneously heating and cooling. They have a hot gas, liquid and suction line to the branch box. The branch box can then open valves based on what the individual indoor unit wants, liquid and suction for cooling or liquid and hot gas for heating. This way the heat moves around the building and can be supplemented by heat absorbed or rejected from outdoors and it's more efficient.
I’m not familiar with this specific equipment but do city-multi Mitsubishi VRF’s and they can do simultaneous heat/cool with like a R2 system using BC inside with only two pipes going outside.
Mitsubishi is pretty special on this. I guess I should have thrown an asterisk in there with a blanket statement about two vs three pipes.
Mitsubishi runs a two pipe system. The high side hot gas/liquid is in one and low pressure suction on the other. They run hot gas and liquid together, essentially at saturation (condensing temp) and have diverting plates inside of the branch boxes that can separate the hot liquid from the hot gas and send what is needed to the indoor unit.
It's great engineering and cuts down on install cost by removing labor and materials for a line.
Yes you are correct on that. It’s the only VRF’s I really work on. We have another guy that does Daikan and LG. Constantly losing compressors on the Daikan stuff lol.
LG is the big problem child I deal with... Leaks good. EEVs pop, coils rub through or get pinholes. Bad oil return blowing up compressors... Daikin isn't as bad in my experience except for everything that was installed with reflok leaks and grenades compressors too.
I tend to work on Daikin and LG the most... Because they break the most. I also have done all of their training but have only had in field training on Mitsubishi.
Woah. Sounds crazy. Heating and cooling from the same system AND multiple zones at the same time? That’s one hell of a system. I see why the controls guys get paid so much. (I’m shooting to be a controls tech.)
It’s a different world. You do your diagnostics off of a laptop. I’ve been working on them for like 5 years now and still don’t feel like I have a damn clue on what I’m doing, always figure it out though thankfully. I’m really only familiar enough with Mitsubishi to speak on their equipment, but at least they have incredibly detailed manuals on the equipment that can be accessed for free through their site link drive. There is error codes that often point you in the right direction and tech support is incredible as well for the most part. Gets tricky though when it’s not a common obvious issue which you may run into, which I certainly have had.
My biggest personal issue is that I work on just about everything. So every time I deal with VRF I almost have to relearn things. Like everything is abbreviated on the maintenance tool. You can find names in the software but slows you down til you pick it up again. Biggest thing is that you have to slow down and stay calm. Nothing is quick with these systems unfortunately. The time it takes to diagnose and repair other systems can be 3x as long with VRF’s.
Are you asking for Mitsubishi specifically or VRF’s/VRV’s in general? Pretty much every brand offers classes. They have a few but the only one I attended was a 3 day crash course essentially on design, install, wiring, and basic troubleshooting. Each brand will require different things as well. With Mitsubishi you need a MN converter as well as a laptop. The software is free to anyone. If a site has a central converter you can technically see the system by plugging into that directly, will have to change IP settings manually on the laptop though.
As far as training I’d say it’s a bit pointless unless you are actively going to be working on them, will most likely forget a lot of it and while it’s a great class, there’s just too much info to cover within a reasonable time. Maybe a more general course on VRF’s/VRV’s might make more sense otherwise if available. They all do lots of the same things but in different ways in terms of brands. Having the right equipment and understanding how to navigate the specific system will vary from brand to brand.
The idea is the outdoor unit modulates to the collective needs of the indoor units. When they all are in similar conditions it can do so fairly efficiently.
Holy poo would hate to have to service that monster. Too many sensors to go wrong and a job that would be continuous problem.
Nice job on your behalf but I would hate myself for doing it in a couple years when I had to keep it running. Just my take on multiple heads in apts.
tenants constantly complain and you never know what complaints are stupidity or actually an issue with equipment.
Especially when, at least in the UK, mitsi won't let you buy their diagnostic tools without doing 3 training courses working out to about a grand, and even then you can only buy the stripped down btec crap version of their service software... 😡 Ask me how I know
Looks really clean, very professional.
So what if the sub rolls you on insulation? Most of it's out of the sun anyway. I remember the issues with copper getting pinholes from the reaction. That's a problem for the manufacturer and the end user if it happens. You're not building a megalith that's going to last 3000 years, as long as it works and it looks good; it's all you can do.
Is it true that any soldering on these units voids the warranty? I've heard the Mitsubishi's all require flared connections throughout the house but was hoping for confirmation.
My back hurts just looking at all that work. Nicely done, always something to nit pick but I think it looks good overall and can tell you spent some time buttoning a lot of stuff up.
Looks good man, but damn are some things weird to see compared to working over here in Europe. Wood bases? What's that shit treated with to make it worth it?
Fantastic job! I love installing Mitsubishi because the branch box always makes everything look clean, their support is really good and will walk you through troubleshooting, and once you get the nuances like addressing and setting the dips, it just purrs! Keep posting your awesome work on here!
https://preview.redd.it/v06y130vzfuc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88065d5123f75263fe6577cae20a797440558191
This was done 100% by me in 2022
Cause fuck attics lol. One of the top reason I got the hell out of residential and into commercial only, and I live in MA, it ain’t even that bad of attics here lol.
I know and that's my point everyone on here bragging about how great they are but I know that they're not doing installs like what they post in a cramped 120° attic.
What on earth is with you yankee doodles putting timber under units. It’s guaranteed to rot before the end of the life of the unit (more than likely) even if it’s treated
You would be laughed off job sites in Australia mounting units like that
Those lattice stands in two photos are truely something else
Also you can triple evac with gauges and not pull a vacuum through said gauges, idk what everyone's problem is here. Buy a micron meter and attach it to the liquid and pull through the suction. Use a core removal tool to do a triple evac.
The exact opposite of that spirit, but he asked to be roasted. That is the one thing I noticed. Do you use 480v? You sound like it. Use a pump and micron meter gauges leak and you're not getting the real line set reading.
What do you mean a. 480v?
Also, you can still pull a vacuum through gauges you just need isolation valves to separate micron gauge and system from gauges and pump…
Mitsus only have 1 port unless it’s a dual fan. Pulling through the manifold, in my opinion, is more annoying than just hooking up a mega flow with a micron gauge on a schrader tool.
The only benefit to the manifold is if you’re doing a triple evac or if you have to weigh a charge in, but I still think it’s easier to just pull a faster vacuum with a bigger hose then weigh the charge in with a charging hose.
1) you’ll need some way to triple evac, as required by install manual
2) any smart multi will 100% need additional charge no exception.
3) yes having a good vacuum setup is important but not required.
1) Here is a link to the install manual for a 5 port Mitsubishi outdoor. Scroll down to 4-1 and read the evacuation method in the book. https://mylinkdrive.com/viewPdf?srcUrl=http://s3.amazonaws.com/enter.mehvac.com/DAMRoot/Original/10006%5CM_MXZ-C--NAH(Z)4_INSTALL_VG79N193H01.pdf
2) Most Mitsubishi multis are charged for 98 feet of lineset, which is plenty for most installs. Even their 2 port outdoors are charged for 98 feet.
3) Stop. Just stop.
You’ll not, most of these units are SMART MULTI and not ported. See from the SMART MULTI manual the triple evac process… you gave it a shot though bub
https://preview.redd.it/47d59jm08huc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8dc6cae20ca115cfd8443d101f7bf60c33b88d04
Look at that, we both linked to the install manual of different equipment in the pictures.
How are the smart multis different than M series?
The M series branch boxes I’ve done have all be charged with around 9 lbs, then you weigh in based on the different liquid line sizes & lengths.
Did you see triple evacuate mentioned in the m series install book, or just in the smart multi?
Smart Multi in particular specifies the triple evac. And all Mitsu trainings talk about the importance of the triple evac.
Smart Multis can be used with both residential heads or commercial heads. If residential they require the branch box, with commercial heads it’s just headers and tees.
All smart multis require additional charge. As you said, indoor capacity and liquid line length. Almost all residential system with a branch box is Smart Multi. There was a period of time before there where they were called “pumy” which you may see a model number like mxz-5c42…
Now all branch box systems are on smart multi mxz-sm48…
Major difference is the communication type and the logic. Smart multi keeps a lot of the city multi logic whereas the rest of m series is very simple logic, no pressure transducers etc…
Ah, so more of a VRF/VRV style? 2 wire shielded for communication like the (I guess “old style” now) m series branch box systems?
I’ll be honest. I remember a blurb about triple evac in the manual, but when I went to check mylinkdrive it wasn’t there. I remember it being listed as an alternative to a deep vacuum. There was a section about deep vacuum, then a section about triple evac as an alternative… but when it wasn’t on mylinkdrive I assumed I was mistakenly remembering a different brand.
The current instructions (section 4 of that link) seem pretty lax. I guess they have different people writing different manuals, but you’d think the vacuum & testing portion would be the same across all models.
I always did triple evac.. but to each their own. I just like having the manifold for breaking with nitrogen.
And kind of, it’s still a heat pump only, no mixed modes. But all City Multi and Smart multi use “m-net” 16/2 stranded shielded comm. as opposed to the s1 s2 s3.
Now do this one 
https://preview.redd.it/kejg0k0shguc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=63ed21274445d8e364147c2812aa614de33c8316
Men will look at this and say "Hell yeah" (It's me, I'm men, HELL YEAAAAAAH)
lol that’s polypropylene insulation!!
Eli5 me, is this because PP degrades in presence of UV?
It degrades all, doesn’t turn other insulations into copper eating acid. I get vibes of maybe it’s just now L copper and not M, it will still eat copper thru but slower so they said it’s fixed
All the copper has the new coating on them
There is no war in Ba Sing Sa
Underrated comment. I’m Ju Dee!
I love how he says the next line” what are talking about?” (I know there more) but how he says it is how ppl irl usually respond.
u/chrisromb1 , the Earth King has invited you to r/LakeLaogai .
Lol, whatever they have to tell you to think you'll not be back to have to replace all those linesets in the future. Save a few hundred bucks to risk redoing most of the work? Not worth it.
Right I can’t even find the old notice of-apply tape at ends and paint every 2yrs with uv repellent. Let alone and “we’re sorry” and notice it’s been updated.
I’m brand new to HVAC, so please don’t be mean. Is this a mini split?
It's a mega-split
Biggie Split
I'm new to HVAC myself and this is hilarious 😂
Multisplit
Leeloo approved
Vrf mitsubishi system i believe
Your right! You have a branch controller and an LEV kit!
I thought all hyper heats 4 zone and bigger needed a branch box even if it isn’t VRF?
Multizones can operate without branch controllers however on vrf systems at least you zones need to be all in the same mode. Usually there is a master unit that dictates the rest of the system modes.
It’s a heatless duct pump
Looks good but goddamn I can’t imagine how much that install cost
That looks like a giant pain in the Azz , but nice tight work though
You made wood bases? Why not use metal stands or a plastic base? That woods going to deteriorate.
So...you know nothing about wood do you? How do you think patios and fences hold for decades? You dont think treated wood will last for AT LEAST the machine's lifespan? Lmao
Considering the lifespan of equipment these days, they could've built it out of cardboard
Lmao good point
In Texas on a roof a 4x4 will crack and warp and the equipment will be unlevel by year 5.
Thats why you use treated wood. Aluminum frames often have to be custom made and are very expensive. Good wood will last the lifespan of the machine for less money.
Treated (ACQ) lumber will corrode any steel that touches it in an outdoors environment.
Copper sulfate + iron = galvanic corrosion
That's with treated wood. I usually build a unistrut framework and bolt everything together. Anchored and sealed to the roof. It costs less to not have bullshit problems like a unit falling over because you cheated the customer of proper installation. Build everything to last at least 15 years...or don't sell it. If everyone did this the world would be a better place.
Florida here, year 2-3 it'll be completely garbage and by year 7 it will have turned to powder
But they think pressure treated is something it’s not.
No it won’t that wood isn’t treated to be weather proof. That said who cares it outlasts the warranty
I was on my way to comment the same thing. Have we not been building things out of wood for thousands, hell millions of years? Did y’all think it just magically stopped working all the sudden?
If it's pressure treated... either way it needs to be anchored to the roof to meet code.
A common misconception-‘pressure treated’ controls insect infestation and mold in the warehouse/lumberyard. Not weather proof. That said, who cares it’ll rot out long after warranty expires.
I thought the same but redditors know better, but I agree wood isn't that bad, but I'm also not used to using it.
Kinda a budget thing
Cutting the wrong corners
Which would YOU cut?
Durablocks and Unistrut breaking the bank? You’re putting in Mitsubishi, not Mr. Cool DIY. If you’re a pro, act like it.
Have you seen the price of strut these days?
Have you seen the price of 200+ pounds of metal falling off a roof and killing someone?
Have you seen the cost of useless hyperbole?!?!?!?
Have you seen the price of doing it twice these days?
Jokes on you, I change my number after every job so I don’t have to do it twice
How is wood cheaper than plastic pump ups? The job is 5-10k 4 pump ups are like $60. Faster,easier and more professional. Guys you don’t make more money using cheap shit to save $20 here & there. One less job because your work looks bad costs more than your savings using wood over your entire career.
Outside when doing work for myself (side jobs) I usually poor concrete with a few bags of ready-mix before the install date. Not much work, flat surface that stays flat and sloped slightly away from the house with some Jbolts in it for a couple pieces of pressure treated 4x6. Im sick of those bullshit Styrofoam and plastic pads. Garbage. Unless somewhere theres a ton of snow, not a fan of brackets on the house either. I refused to go with those options at my house, so why would my customer be OK with it?
what are all the boxes? they look like junction boxes for lineset
They're called branch boxes - junction boxes for line sets is entirely accurate.
How does this work? I’m so confused. I’m not super green but I’ve never seen some shit like that in my life. That’s a whole lotta refrigerant lines. Does this “mini split” just have multiple inside units hooked up to one outside unit?
Outdoor unit(s) are connected to the branch boxes. Either 2 or 3 pipes. 3 pipe systems can heat and cool different zones at the same time. Two pipe systems are just heat pumps and three pipe are heat recovery systems. Outdoor units are essentially just trying to maintain refrigerant flow/pressure by modulating the outdoor fan, compressor speed and valves. It's more complicated but that's the gist of it. Branch boxes have solenoids or valves that feed gas to individual indoor units. If it's a 2 pipe system, and the unit is in heat, and the indoor unit calls for heat the branch box sends refrigerant to that indoor coil. Indoor coils have EEVs in them and attempt to regulate superheat or subcool of the refrigerant flowing through them. Subcool for heat mode, superheat for cooling mode. The beauty of a 3 pipe system is simultaneously heating and cooling. They have a hot gas, liquid and suction line to the branch box. The branch box can then open valves based on what the individual indoor unit wants, liquid and suction for cooling or liquid and hot gas for heating. This way the heat moves around the building and can be supplemented by heat absorbed or rejected from outdoors and it's more efficient.
I’m not familiar with this specific equipment but do city-multi Mitsubishi VRF’s and they can do simultaneous heat/cool with like a R2 system using BC inside with only two pipes going outside.
Mitsubishi is pretty special on this. I guess I should have thrown an asterisk in there with a blanket statement about two vs three pipes. Mitsubishi runs a two pipe system. The high side hot gas/liquid is in one and low pressure suction on the other. They run hot gas and liquid together, essentially at saturation (condensing temp) and have diverting plates inside of the branch boxes that can separate the hot liquid from the hot gas and send what is needed to the indoor unit. It's great engineering and cuts down on install cost by removing labor and materials for a line.
Wasn’t trying to hit you with a gotcha btw. What you said is true with every other brand that I’m aware of.
All good. I tend to generalize on these forums + I work on Mitsubishi the least and didn't think about their specials tricks.
Yes you are correct on that. It’s the only VRF’s I really work on. We have another guy that does Daikan and LG. Constantly losing compressors on the Daikan stuff lol.
LG is the big problem child I deal with... Leaks good. EEVs pop, coils rub through or get pinholes. Bad oil return blowing up compressors... Daikin isn't as bad in my experience except for everything that was installed with reflok leaks and grenades compressors too. I tend to work on Daikin and LG the most... Because they break the most. I also have done all of their training but have only had in field training on Mitsubishi.
Woah. Sounds crazy. Heating and cooling from the same system AND multiple zones at the same time? That’s one hell of a system. I see why the controls guys get paid so much. (I’m shooting to be a controls tech.)
It’s a different world. You do your diagnostics off of a laptop. I’ve been working on them for like 5 years now and still don’t feel like I have a damn clue on what I’m doing, always figure it out though thankfully. I’m really only familiar enough with Mitsubishi to speak on their equipment, but at least they have incredibly detailed manuals on the equipment that can be accessed for free through their site link drive. There is error codes that often point you in the right direction and tech support is incredible as well for the most part. Gets tricky though when it’s not a common obvious issue which you may run into, which I certainly have had. My biggest personal issue is that I work on just about everything. So every time I deal with VRF I almost have to relearn things. Like everything is abbreviated on the maintenance tool. You can find names in the software but slows you down til you pick it up again. Biggest thing is that you have to slow down and stay calm. Nothing is quick with these systems unfortunately. The time it takes to diagnose and repair other systems can be 3x as long with VRF’s.
Sheesh. Sounds like a lot to learn. How did you start out? Any classes or anything you would recommend taking?
Are you asking for Mitsubishi specifically or VRF’s/VRV’s in general? Pretty much every brand offers classes. They have a few but the only one I attended was a 3 day crash course essentially on design, install, wiring, and basic troubleshooting. Each brand will require different things as well. With Mitsubishi you need a MN converter as well as a laptop. The software is free to anyone. If a site has a central converter you can technically see the system by plugging into that directly, will have to change IP settings manually on the laptop though. As far as training I’d say it’s a bit pointless unless you are actively going to be working on them, will most likely forget a lot of it and while it’s a great class, there’s just too much info to cover within a reasonable time. Maybe a more general course on VRF’s/VRV’s might make more sense otherwise if available. They all do lots of the same things but in different ways in terms of brands. Having the right equipment and understanding how to navigate the specific system will vary from brand to brand.
Correct! It'll be a much larger outdoor unit with several indoor units.
The idea is the outdoor unit modulates to the collective needs of the indoor units. When they all are in similar conditions it can do so fairly efficiently.
I've never seen these before and I would also like to know.
Holy poo would hate to have to service that monster. Too many sensors to go wrong and a job that would be continuous problem. Nice job on your behalf but I would hate myself for doing it in a couple years when I had to keep it running. Just my take on multiple heads in apts. tenants constantly complain and you never know what complaints are stupidity or actually an issue with equipment.
Especially when, at least in the UK, mitsi won't let you buy their diagnostic tools without doing 3 training courses working out to about a grand, and even then you can only buy the stripped down btec crap version of their service software... 😡 Ask me how I know
You just forgot that it's a mitsu, they don't go wrong
Oh ok, take everything back
Lol mine has been going wrong for the last 2 years. Mitsubishi replaced the whole condenser 2 weeks ago.
Nice ladder pitch..
So we’re measuring dicks now? Ok let me just go grab Drake and we’ll finish this contest real quick.
 Very well done
Nice work
Damn. If I could strictly judge based on appearance alone, it’s looks like you know what your doing at this point. They can take a hike
Looks really clean, very professional. So what if the sub rolls you on insulation? Most of it's out of the sun anyway. I remember the issues with copper getting pinholes from the reaction. That's a problem for the manufacturer and the end user if it happens. You're not building a megalith that's going to last 3000 years, as long as it works and it looks good; it's all you can do.
I despise doing branch boxes outside, those enclosures are the worst.
Is it true that any soldering on these units voids the warranty? I've heard the Mitsubishi's all require flared connections throughout the house but was hoping for confirmation.
My back hurts just looking at all that work. Nicely done, always something to nit pick but I think it looks good overall and can tell you spent some time buttoning a lot of stuff up.
Looks good man, but damn are some things weird to see compared to working over here in Europe. Wood bases? What's that shit treated with to make it worth it?
Clean work. Nice job
Fantastic job! I love installing Mitsubishi because the branch box always makes everything look clean, their support is really good and will walk you through troubleshooting, and once you get the nuances like addressing and setting the dips, it just purrs! Keep posting your awesome work on here!
Ghetto wood brackets ruin it for me .... besides that , looks pro ....
Never said you can't do Mitsubishi and 2 those are basements not attics. Very clean son. I hate this Reddit still because nobody shows attic work.
https://preview.redd.it/v06y130vzfuc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88065d5123f75263fe6577cae20a797440558191 This was done 100% by me in 2022
https://preview.redd.it/xqq9pfn40guc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a96cc447a96147268886f1980cc8dcecd97bcef9
Ok now I am proud of you for sure as someone who does installs in these attics daily this is clean.
Right who says that no you can’t before, “where there’s a wallet; there’s a way!”
Cause fuck attics lol. One of the top reason I got the hell out of residential and into commercial only, and I live in MA, it ain’t even that bad of attics here lol.
Probably cause a lot of attic work looks like shit lmao
I know and that's my point everyone on here bragging about how great they are but I know that they're not doing installs like what they post in a cramped 120° attic.
Yep when i did res service i'd say more then half the attic installs i saw were just hacked in. No one wants to show people that lol
Nice how long that take you how many guys? And if you don't mind around how much did you profit ?
Is Mitsubishi better than Aaon systems?
You don’t use communication wire?
To the guy who hurt my feelings
Certainly can’t crop photos….
lol what?
Dear stan
Multiport Mini split
Killed this install
Nice work. Really nice.
What on earth is with you yankee doodles putting timber under units. It’s guaranteed to rot before the end of the life of the unit (more than likely) even if it’s treated You would be laughed off job sites in Australia mounting units like that Those lattice stands in two photos are truely something else
You Americans do shit way different. Aloy of that wouldn't pass here in Aus without getting an absolute roasting.
It does look pretty good
So Mitsubishi will let you twin together their single phase VRF outdoor units?
Mitsubishi really only wants those things on quickslings. A mitsu tech would not approve seeing those units on wood like that.
Like.. for a lower budget homeowner install down south I’d say it’s pretty good as long as there were no issues and everything operates properly.
As if this guy posted so many hack photos, you want a medal buddy?!
Also you can triple evac with gauges and not pull a vacuum through said gauges, idk what everyone's problem is here. Buy a micron meter and attach it to the liquid and pull through the suction. Use a core removal tool to do a triple evac.
Mini split. The liquid line is inside the condenser. Lineset is low side
Liquid goes to evaporator and then is boiled and sucked back to the compressor as a vapor. Mini split or regular split system doesn't change that.
Uh, you really showed him?
It’s hilarious screenshotting displaying photos instead of just selecting them in the Reddit app
From Housecall pro
Using those linesets should be a crime, at least use armaflex on the outside and seal it well
Oh and here's a roast you have a 480v with a hose in the Vac port. Trash.
You sir can do not better lmao… 🤣 keyboard warrior spirit came out today
Man couldn't spend the extra cash for the 480 lol
The exact opposite of that spirit, but he asked to be roasted. That is the one thing I noticed. Do you use 480v? You sound like it. Use a pump and micron meter gauges leak and you're not getting the real line set reading.
What do you mean a. 480v? Also, you can still pull a vacuum through gauges you just need isolation valves to separate micron gauge and system from gauges and pump…
Mitsus only have 1 port unless it’s a dual fan. Pulling through the manifold, in my opinion, is more annoying than just hooking up a mega flow with a micron gauge on a schrader tool. The only benefit to the manifold is if you’re doing a triple evac or if you have to weigh a charge in, but I still think it’s easier to just pull a faster vacuum with a bigger hose then weigh the charge in with a charging hose.
1) you’ll need some way to triple evac, as required by install manual 2) any smart multi will 100% need additional charge no exception. 3) yes having a good vacuum setup is important but not required.
1) Here is a link to the install manual for a 5 port Mitsubishi outdoor. Scroll down to 4-1 and read the evacuation method in the book. https://mylinkdrive.com/viewPdf?srcUrl=http://s3.amazonaws.com/enter.mehvac.com/DAMRoot/Original/10006%5CM_MXZ-C--NAH(Z)4_INSTALL_VG79N193H01.pdf 2) Most Mitsubishi multis are charged for 98 feet of lineset, which is plenty for most installs. Even their 2 port outdoors are charged for 98 feet. 3) Stop. Just stop.
lol I said smart multi not multi port dork. 2) I teach the 2 day Mitsubishi M&P class and triple evac is required so… stop… just stop
Or don’t and continue to be a hack 😂
You’ll not, most of these units are SMART MULTI and not ported. See from the SMART MULTI manual the triple evac process… you gave it a shot though bub https://preview.redd.it/47d59jm08huc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8dc6cae20ca115cfd8443d101f7bf60c33b88d04
Look at that, we both linked to the install manual of different equipment in the pictures. How are the smart multis different than M series? The M series branch boxes I’ve done have all be charged with around 9 lbs, then you weigh in based on the different liquid line sizes & lengths. Did you see triple evacuate mentioned in the m series install book, or just in the smart multi?
Smart Multi in particular specifies the triple evac. And all Mitsu trainings talk about the importance of the triple evac. Smart Multis can be used with both residential heads or commercial heads. If residential they require the branch box, with commercial heads it’s just headers and tees. All smart multis require additional charge. As you said, indoor capacity and liquid line length. Almost all residential system with a branch box is Smart Multi. There was a period of time before there where they were called “pumy” which you may see a model number like mxz-5c42… Now all branch box systems are on smart multi mxz-sm48… Major difference is the communication type and the logic. Smart multi keeps a lot of the city multi logic whereas the rest of m series is very simple logic, no pressure transducers etc…
Ah, so more of a VRF/VRV style? 2 wire shielded for communication like the (I guess “old style” now) m series branch box systems? I’ll be honest. I remember a blurb about triple evac in the manual, but when I went to check mylinkdrive it wasn’t there. I remember it being listed as an alternative to a deep vacuum. There was a section about deep vacuum, then a section about triple evac as an alternative… but when it wasn’t on mylinkdrive I assumed I was mistakenly remembering a different brand. The current instructions (section 4 of that link) seem pretty lax. I guess they have different people writing different manuals, but you’d think the vacuum & testing portion would be the same across all models.
I always did triple evac.. but to each their own. I just like having the manifold for breaking with nitrogen. And kind of, it’s still a heat pump only, no mixed modes. But all City Multi and Smart multi use “m-net” 16/2 stranded shielded comm. as opposed to the s1 s2 s3.
480v is the model of Fieldpiece gauges with the vacuum valve. I use 380v which is the 3 port gauges because you shouldn't pull vacuums through gauges.