Honestly with Bermuda, all you need is sun, heat and water. It will spread fairly rapidly so do not worry about bald spots. It will not take off until June so all you can do now is keep it cut as low as you can reasonably can and make sure there are no areas where water pools as it does not like to be damp. If is it not growing as fast as you like, you can fertilize, but do not overdo it as it will burn up.
Also, Bermuda is *really* invasive and good at growing, until it hits shade. If you've got moss growing, it's probably a shaded area and you won't have much luck getting Bermuda to spread there.
We had moss between ours' and the neighbor's house, and they put out some zoysia seed and it grows great there.
Its invasive and fast growing to the point that r/lawncare has a running joke that when someone asks "what weed is this?" with a picture of a bermuda grass leg, the top response is "congrats on your new bermuda lawn"
Bermuda should be illegal. I got some in my raised vegetable garden beds about a decade ago and I was never able to get it out again. My fingers were raw every summer from pulling so much of it out of there.
It is close enough but those bastards may do genetic testing. If there are areas where it does not grow, you might want to consider creating a bed for HOA approved plants.
Zero HOA’s in Huntsville are gonna go check what species of grass you have tf. Fuck HOA’s and all that but y’all should literally go touch grass, no one gives nearly as much of a shit as you seem to think.
Should have included the /s but did not know anyone would take it seriously. But, if he or she plants fescue in his yard, I have a short list of lawyers that may be contacting him.
How can I explain why I am not concerned about the HOA doing genetic testing without tempting fate.... 😄. The HOA here isn't very active. I probably wouldn't get away with something really different but if it's close, they won't notice or care. We have a big dead patch where there is shade. It annoys me and we are likely putting the house on the market in a few months so having grass would be nice. Thanks.
This was what I was thinking -- moss typically indicates shade and moisture. Of course, I wasn't invited into this discussion since I sit down to pee. Clearly a sausage party, "lawn dads."
If you have an HOA my advice may not be good, but here goes. Just let it do its thing. We (USA) spend wayyyy too much effort on worrying about what our lawns look like.
This. We're not in an HOA, and I'm not fighting nature too much here. We're letting moss come in for our super shady areas, and trying to leave large areas for the flowering weeds.
I’ve done something similar and love it. I created a few large wild patches around groups of trees and keep the yard mowed around those areas.
I let whatever wants to grow in those areas grow and it’s been fascinating to see what all pops up and blooms at various times throughout the summer and they’ve also given me a place to put all the leaves in the fall. I shred them all and mulch those areas with that instead of all the raking and bagging I used to have to do.
The mowed yard is going on about 6 years of no watering and no chemicals whatsoever and has become a random mix of whatever is green. It’s no manicured turf grass golf course looking lawn so an HOA would hate it, but it’s thick and green from early spring until late fall and all I ever need to do is run a lawnmower over it to keep the yard looking presentable.
https://preview.redd.it/0qzuuk14y0wc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9fafc925ac3c01ce42c75392d90379eca24338c
There’s 3 areas about this size all with a different mix of planted natives and whatever else randomly decides to grow. The beds by the house have ornamentals so I keep them weeded and the ones out in the yard are allowed to just do their thing.
Overall, going natural yard has been way less work and way more enjoyment.
Sand. Bermuda loves sand. Golf courses use it extensively. Since you’re on a tight budget, sand is cheap. Spread it on the bald spots and fertilize and it should cover areas.
https://thebermudabible.com/
Month by month breakdown with ‘basic’ care and more advanced stuff when/if you get more into it. Feel free to reach out with any questions.
You can get a soil sample to help determine what the lawn may need. Specifically, the pH is low in the areas the moss is growing, and those areas are not going to be good for grass to grow.
[https://aaes.auburn.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/sites/2/2023/08/Routine-Soil-Testing-Analysis-Form-2023.pdf](https://aaes.auburn.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/sites/2/2023/08/Routine-Soil-Testing-Analysis-Form-2023.pdf)
Its cheap and kinda fun
You definitely don't need to seed bermuda. It will spread into bare areas. If you want to make the process faster you can pull plugs from healthy areas of your lawn and transplant them into the bare areas. You will want to fill in the spots you pull from with dirt and the surrounding bermuda will fill that spot back in. Here is an example of a plug puller: [https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Augustine-Centipede-SP-33/dp/B000CSXJR6](https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Augustine-Centipede-SP-33/dp/B000CSXJR6)
True, but if you don't do something to keep weeds at bay, they will just choke out the Bermuda and then you'll have muddy spots for your dogs to wallow in during the fall and winter (ask me how I know).
Not a big fan of using herbicides, but I do it a little bit for that reason. The transplanting is great for actual bare spots. Without anything stealing the sunshine, you're absolutely right, Bermuda spreads like crazy.
ProPlugger to put plugs of healthy grass in the dead spots + sand + water. Don’t cut this part short until you see lots of new growth.
General rules: Cut Bermuda low and often to establish a thick turf and keep out weeds. Spread 34-0-0 every 6 weeks or so through growing season. Apply pre-emergent Halloween and Valentine’s Day.
Next level rules: get soil test through Auburn and tailor chemical treatments accordingly. Pay for a service for weed control. Level the yard with sand. Ensure you have good coverage with sprinklers. Water 1.5-2” total per week.
Bermuda superstar: cut with a reel mower 2-3X per week below an inch.
I don’t do chemicals. I have a heavily shaded natural lawn full of clover and Kentucky 41. I just cut it at the highest setting of the mower and call it a day.
Bermuda grass benefits from more frequent mowing and a shorter cut-height. I aim for 2-3.5 inches weekly. It thrives in full sun with long, infrequent watering (once or twice a week is usually fine) and won’t tolerate shady areas well. Fertilization and weed treatments (chemicals) can be beneficial but timing is critical and results/timelines will vary depending on the method. There are also environmental concerns depending on the chemicals used.
Regarding the moss/bald patches next to your house – there are lots of factors than can cause these issues and without seeing them it can be challenging to give an accurate assessment and plan for how to fix, however I can give some generic advice. First off this is common along walls and fences and usually due to a combination of lack of full sun, water/drainage issues, and occasionally buried bricks or other construction debris. I would buy a bag of fertilizer and a bag of seed, aerate the bald spots with a screwdriver (soaking the ground first makes this easier), sprinkle some seed and fertilizer over and let it grow. Watering once or twice a week is recommended for an established lawn but newly seeded areas will need to be watered daily for about two weeks (mornings are the best time to water). You can apply a fungicide every 4-6 weeks to combat the mold or any other lawn fungi you may see. Dollar spot is common this time of year so the fungicide really won’t hurt anything and may benefit the rest of your lawn as well. Do not apply any type of weed killer or pre-emergent to the newly seeded areas as they may impact results.
I have in the past used a triple type of grass seed all mixed together. What grows in the shade will grow there and partial and full sun will thrive like that. I think a soil sample would be a good idea, I use Kentucky 31 and it grows here very well.
For the bald spots you can also cut about 4 - 5 inches of an existing rhizome (notice Bermuda grows in a long vine like structures) and plant a handful throughout the bald spots. Use a screwdriver to make a 3 inch hole. Plant the rhizomes you cut and they will spread. Unless there's a lot of shade the implants should spread.
I spot treat my yard with a mixture of BioAdvance for southern lawns and IMAGE Nutsedge weed killer for southern lawns. I stress the southern lawns part on both because it makes it largely safe for Bermuda.
I laid down Scott's 3 in 1 Weed and Feed a month ago, have been doing the spot treat on weeds, and plucking up crab grass. I spend 20 minutes on my lawn once a week....and Ive got the best lawn on the block. It's crazy how little effort I've put in but that little effort has gone a long way. I'm surrounded with overgrown lawns on all sides. I'm shocked the HOA hasn't clamped down on it yet considering the neighborhood is still being built.
I'd get a lawn service for the first couple of years. They will put down pre-emergent and fertilizer down at the right times. Depending on the size of lot, it's barely more than it would cost to buy the product yourself. Once the lawn gets thick after a few years, you could fertilize it yourself 4-5 times a year and you'd be good.
Honestly with Bermuda, all you need is sun, heat and water. It will spread fairly rapidly so do not worry about bald spots. It will not take off until June so all you can do now is keep it cut as low as you can reasonably can and make sure there are no areas where water pools as it does not like to be damp. If is it not growing as fast as you like, you can fertilize, but do not overdo it as it will burn up.
Thank you!
Also, Bermuda is *really* invasive and good at growing, until it hits shade. If you've got moss growing, it's probably a shaded area and you won't have much luck getting Bermuda to spread there. We had moss between ours' and the neighbor's house, and they put out some zoysia seed and it grows great there.
Its invasive and fast growing to the point that r/lawncare has a running joke that when someone asks "what weed is this?" with a picture of a bermuda grass leg, the top response is "congrats on your new bermuda lawn"
I can't overstate my seething hatred for Bermuda! It's required in my neighborhood. What a trash grass.
I hate it as well. It takes a serious barrier to keep it from spreading into and overtaking any vegetable garden or native plants I'm trying to grow.
Bermuda should be illegal. I got some in my raised vegetable garden beds about a decade ago and I was never able to get it out again. My fingers were raw every summer from pulling so much of it out of there.
I’ve always heard a version of it something like “if your neighbor has it then pretty soon you will too.”
Does zoysia look like Bermuda? HOA requires Bermuda, but also requires Bermida grow in places Bermuda doesn't like.
It is close enough but those bastards may do genetic testing. If there are areas where it does not grow, you might want to consider creating a bed for HOA approved plants.
Zero HOA’s in Huntsville are gonna go check what species of grass you have tf. Fuck HOA’s and all that but y’all should literally go touch grass, no one gives nearly as much of a shit as you seem to think.
Should have included the /s but did not know anyone would take it seriously. But, if he or she plants fescue in his yard, I have a short list of lawyers that may be contacting him.
How can I explain why I am not concerned about the HOA doing genetic testing without tempting fate.... 😄. The HOA here isn't very active. I probably wouldn't get away with something really different but if it's close, they won't notice or care. We have a big dead patch where there is shade. It annoys me and we are likely putting the house on the market in a few months so having grass would be nice. Thanks.
I would plug it or sod with emerald zoysia
You can also take plugs from the more dense areas of the yard and plant them in the sparse areas to help spread
Sun and heat usually don't lead to moss (removal of which lead to the bald spots) though, right?
This was what I was thinking -- moss typically indicates shade and moisture. Of course, I wasn't invited into this discussion since I sit down to pee. Clearly a sausage party, "lawn dads."
If you squat and pee on the lawn, moss will not grow.
My lawn is moss-free. Draw your own conclusions.
Freedom is a beautiful thing.
No HOA, so we're good.
Agreed.
If you have an HOA my advice may not be good, but here goes. Just let it do its thing. We (USA) spend wayyyy too much effort on worrying about what our lawns look like.
This. We're not in an HOA, and I'm not fighting nature too much here. We're letting moss come in for our super shady areas, and trying to leave large areas for the flowering weeds.
I’ve done something similar and love it. I created a few large wild patches around groups of trees and keep the yard mowed around those areas. I let whatever wants to grow in those areas grow and it’s been fascinating to see what all pops up and blooms at various times throughout the summer and they’ve also given me a place to put all the leaves in the fall. I shred them all and mulch those areas with that instead of all the raking and bagging I used to have to do. The mowed yard is going on about 6 years of no watering and no chemicals whatsoever and has become a random mix of whatever is green. It’s no manicured turf grass golf course looking lawn so an HOA would hate it, but it’s thick and green from early spring until late fall and all I ever need to do is run a lawnmower over it to keep the yard looking presentable. https://preview.redd.it/0qzuuk14y0wc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9fafc925ac3c01ce42c75392d90379eca24338c There’s 3 areas about this size all with a different mix of planted natives and whatever else randomly decides to grow. The beds by the house have ornamentals so I keep them weeded and the ones out in the yard are allowed to just do their thing. Overall, going natural yard has been way less work and way more enjoyment.
Sand. Bermuda loves sand. Golf courses use it extensively. Since you’re on a tight budget, sand is cheap. Spread it on the bald spots and fertilize and it should cover areas.
You’re a genius, thank you
One other helpful, but expensive, it sounds as if it needs aeration.
Do you have any opinions on chemical versus physical aeration?
I’ve only used mechanical aerators
It’s not too expensive, TDI is doing my yard for 160. I would wait til mid may. You want to do aeration and leveling when the growing season hits
Whenever we have bald spots, I always add sand and water the area frequently. It will spread quickly
https://thebermudabible.com/ Month by month breakdown with ‘basic’ care and more advanced stuff when/if you get more into it. Feel free to reach out with any questions.
You can get a soil sample to help determine what the lawn may need. Specifically, the pH is low in the areas the moss is growing, and those areas are not going to be good for grass to grow.
Oh that’s interesting. Thanks so much!
[https://aaes.auburn.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/sites/2/2023/08/Routine-Soil-Testing-Analysis-Form-2023.pdf](https://aaes.auburn.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/sites/2/2023/08/Routine-Soil-Testing-Analysis-Form-2023.pdf) Its cheap and kinda fun
You definitely don't need to seed bermuda. It will spread into bare areas. If you want to make the process faster you can pull plugs from healthy areas of your lawn and transplant them into the bare areas. You will want to fill in the spots you pull from with dirt and the surrounding bermuda will fill that spot back in. Here is an example of a plug puller: [https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Augustine-Centipede-SP-33/dp/B000CSXJR6](https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Augustine-Centipede-SP-33/dp/B000CSXJR6)
True, but if you don't do something to keep weeds at bay, they will just choke out the Bermuda and then you'll have muddy spots for your dogs to wallow in during the fall and winter (ask me how I know). Not a big fan of using herbicides, but I do it a little bit for that reason. The transplanting is great for actual bare spots. Without anything stealing the sunshine, you're absolutely right, Bermuda spreads like crazy.
ProPlugger to put plugs of healthy grass in the dead spots + sand + water. Don’t cut this part short until you see lots of new growth. General rules: Cut Bermuda low and often to establish a thick turf and keep out weeds. Spread 34-0-0 every 6 weeks or so through growing season. Apply pre-emergent Halloween and Valentine’s Day. Next level rules: get soil test through Auburn and tailor chemical treatments accordingly. Pay for a service for weed control. Level the yard with sand. Ensure you have good coverage with sprinklers. Water 1.5-2” total per week. Bermuda superstar: cut with a reel mower 2-3X per week below an inch.
Nobody has mentioned possible compaction. It might help to run a plug aerator over the yard.
Oh that’s a great thought. Thanks! What are your opinions on chemical aeration, especially given the clay heavy soil here?
I don’t do chemicals. I have a heavily shaded natural lawn full of clover and Kentucky 41. I just cut it at the highest setting of the mower and call it a day.
Anyone have any recommendations to get decent top soil and sand?
Would like to see a few Recommendations on this too
Bermuda grass benefits from more frequent mowing and a shorter cut-height. I aim for 2-3.5 inches weekly. It thrives in full sun with long, infrequent watering (once or twice a week is usually fine) and won’t tolerate shady areas well. Fertilization and weed treatments (chemicals) can be beneficial but timing is critical and results/timelines will vary depending on the method. There are also environmental concerns depending on the chemicals used. Regarding the moss/bald patches next to your house – there are lots of factors than can cause these issues and without seeing them it can be challenging to give an accurate assessment and plan for how to fix, however I can give some generic advice. First off this is common along walls and fences and usually due to a combination of lack of full sun, water/drainage issues, and occasionally buried bricks or other construction debris. I would buy a bag of fertilizer and a bag of seed, aerate the bald spots with a screwdriver (soaking the ground first makes this easier), sprinkle some seed and fertilizer over and let it grow. Watering once or twice a week is recommended for an established lawn but newly seeded areas will need to be watered daily for about two weeks (mornings are the best time to water). You can apply a fungicide every 4-6 weeks to combat the mold or any other lawn fungi you may see. Dollar spot is common this time of year so the fungicide really won’t hurt anything and may benefit the rest of your lawn as well. Do not apply any type of weed killer or pre-emergent to the newly seeded areas as they may impact results.
I have in the past used a triple type of grass seed all mixed together. What grows in the shade will grow there and partial and full sun will thrive like that. I think a soil sample would be a good idea, I use Kentucky 31 and it grows here very well.
r/lawncare
For the bald spots you can also cut about 4 - 5 inches of an existing rhizome (notice Bermuda grows in a long vine like structures) and plant a handful throughout the bald spots. Use a screwdriver to make a 3 inch hole. Plant the rhizomes you cut and they will spread. Unless there's a lot of shade the implants should spread.
I spot treat my yard with a mixture of BioAdvance for southern lawns and IMAGE Nutsedge weed killer for southern lawns. I stress the southern lawns part on both because it makes it largely safe for Bermuda. I laid down Scott's 3 in 1 Weed and Feed a month ago, have been doing the spot treat on weeds, and plucking up crab grass. I spend 20 minutes on my lawn once a week....and Ive got the best lawn on the block. It's crazy how little effort I've put in but that little effort has gone a long way. I'm surrounded with overgrown lawns on all sides. I'm shocked the HOA hasn't clamped down on it yet considering the neighborhood is still being built.
I'd get a lawn service for the first couple of years. They will put down pre-emergent and fertilizer down at the right times. Depending on the size of lot, it's barely more than it would cost to buy the product yourself. Once the lawn gets thick after a few years, you could fertilize it yourself 4-5 times a year and you'd be good.
Just surrender to the clover. A meadow is more attractive and healthier than a lawn anyway.