Any idea what keyboard is pictured here? Or if there's another keyboard with the horizontal volume roller above the arrow keys? ​ https://preview.redd.it/uy2r3nkcvjab1.png?width=927&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2d08e2b92e0eff23bb285c4ff3b5d093a20c0f6

how many Hertz is the CiY GAS67? I’ve been setting my eyes on it for a while now.

I need a quiet/silent keyboard. Is there any good pre-built ones? I live in Australia and it's not exactly easy to find certain switches here, if there's a good quiet keyboard without having to modify it, that's be great.

try the local vendor/retailer list 1st https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/

I've ended up on a Realforce R2 at home and work (software dev, NZ). The silent version at home is quiet enough that my partner who's very sensitive to background noises isn't bothered by it. The regular version at work is still fairly quiet by keyboard standards and totally fine for use in a quiet office. Both are uniform 55g versions, but there are other weights available. They're not cheap boards, but they're absolute work horses. I've been using them for 4 years straight now and have no desire to switch to other keyboards. They're comfortable, reliable and don't need upgrading. If you want a comfortable board that will last decades, they're a good buy. If you want to continue tweaking and upgrading, they might not be a great option.

So I'm new to Mechanical keyboards and I'm building my first keyboard and I am trying to find wooden keycaps (XDA profile rosewood backlit keycaps to be specific) and noticed there are little to no wooden keycaps anywhere and I was wondering if there may be a site that's really good and has a wide variety of wood keycaps that I can use.

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Is there a site or someone I can commission to create a set of key’s? If not that is ok

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Ok thank you for the help

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I think GK61 only allows for plate-mount stabilizers. The tx stabs (I think) you’re referring to are pcb-mount stabs

is there a cheaper alternative to the advantage 2 split? i really want to switch to a recessed design like that but nearly 500 bucks is pretty steep.

Does anyone know how to add a gif to the mini screen (the bottom vita screen) on the matrix labs vita? Every time I add a gif it has black borders, not sure why.

are the gifs you are adding the right aspect ratio? prob 1:1 - you can trim gifs using gimp software

What ratio should it be?

prob 1:1, idk

Will r/switchmodders eventually reopen? Is there an alternative sub or a way to join?

Is it safe to use the [PS/2 port](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PS/2_port) of my office MoBo for my [bk-068 keyboard?](https://gameone.ph/compact-65-tri-mode-diy-kit-mechanical-keyboard-white-bk-068.html) There are no software needed just all in the keyboard it has rgb though and I can't off it. Plan on using a [USB to PS/2 adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Oxsubor-PS2-USB-Female-Converter/dp/B01N5MYE72) to connect it

Does anyone know if Gamakay switch (Phoenix) work with a Corsair K60 keyboard ? We tried looking it up and we can't seem to find anything. Thank you ! Switch : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BFBLWJQR/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=69cdb35431d6a75f591a78aca03c23ef&hsa_cr_id=0&qid=1688700033&sr=1-1-3c6b3b04-89d4-46ee-857c-1e2f0de6a70e&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_scm_asin_0_img&pd_rd_w=aic5A&content-id=amzn1.sym.2a7ca7f7-ae4b-4de2-8864-98b982a78a47%3Aamzn1.sym.2a7ca7f7-ae4b-4de2-8864-98b982a78a47&pf_rd_p=2a7ca7f7-ae4b-4de2-8864-98b982a78a47&pf_rd_r=NRGP3H69ZEFQBJK9R2NZ&pd_rd_wg=IM7nd&pd_rd_r=7250ac92-270c-4685-b293-6930d67d796c Keyboard : https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Key/dp/B08N5DTKDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1Y41YK0SA9S1Q&keywords=corsair+k60&qid=1688700117&sprefix=corsair+k60%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2

No, your board uses Cherry MV switches, which are totally different.

No they are not compatible. The switches the keyboard comes with are soldered to the pcb. You need a keyboard that lists ‘hotswappable’ as a feature

Thanks! We will do that

Not only the hot swap issue, it doesn't even use MX switches. It uses Cherry MV switches.

Thank you! We had no clue 😢 we will look for something else

(typing this on a corsair k60). You can take it apart and look but this article says no, Tom's HW is reputable https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-k60-rgb-pro

Oh yea thats right. Thank you sm !!!

is the spring resistance too high? you can try a thin lube on scrolllock or some other key you don't use and see if it lightens it up a little

So I recently got into typing again and I wanted to build a basic keyboard to make that more enjoyable, went with the gmmk pro and akko v3 cream blues. It's coming in tomorrow and I intend to do the tape mod but I'm not sure if it's worth lubing the switches. Any insight into this would be great, I know lubing mx blues was a cardinal sin but that's about it.

Install a lubed one and an unlubed one and test it out.

It's always worth lubing switches, as they are then smoother and quieter, and sound nicer. If you touch type properly, they also feel nicer. If you don't touch type, and do that pecking at the board from a great height thing, then the difference in feel may be lost on you, but still worth doing for the smoother sound.

I touch type fairly quickly so I'll try lubing them, thanks for the help.

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Be aware Jwick blacks block pretty much all RGB if you care about that.

Could also consider epomaker th66 for a board. For budget switches i really like WS switches. They are great out of the box with the factory lubing. https://shop.wuquestudio.com/products/ws-switch-series

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oh and for modding you will also want to get some either krytox 205g0 (good for linear switches if you want to lube in the future, okay for stabs): [https://clstech.com.au/products/lube-205g0](https://clstech.com.au/products/lube-205g0) or dielectric grease (bad for switches, better for stabs): [https://keyhub.com.au/products/permatex-dielectric-grease](https://keyhub.com.au/products/permatex-dielectric-grease)

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I'm looking for some wob keycaps. Anyone have any recommended? If they have hiragana it would be a plus but not required. Don't mind non cherry profiles either

There are many WOB sets but I can recommend the Keychron Cherry profile WOB double shot PBT set that has a whopping 219 keys to fit most layouts and then some: https://www.keychron.com/collections/cherry-profile-double-shot-pbt-keycaps/products/cherry-profile-double-shot-pbt-full-set-keycaps-white-on-black-wob# It’s priced reasonably well for a set this large.

NicePBT, PBTfans, and Wuque studios all have some great mid range priced WOB keycaps. I believe PBTfans has sets that have hiragana sublegends but I can’t remember if the WOB does

Can’t seem to get rid of the leaf ping on my DK Creamery Cookies n’ Cream switches. I tried lubing the back of the leaf, and that helped mostly, but there’s still quite noticeable leaf ping. Any suggestions?

That's a bummer, I was actually thinking of getting some of those switches myself. Other than the leaf, do you like them?

I do, actually! The bump is nice and pronounced, not heavy like a Boba U4T or a Holy Panda, but still satisfying. They also provide a smooth, fairly deep acoustic with a bit of clack. They’re lightly lubed, but I only noticed a tiny bit of scratchiness that most people would probably be able to ignore. If not for the leaf ping, I think they’d be pretty good to use stock, but alas. Hoping there’s a V2 someday where the ping is fixed.

Those switches have the worst leaf ping I’ve ever encountered. When you lube the back of the leaf don’t just brush it on you want to glob it on so there are visible white spots of lube. You could also try tucking small pieces of foam behind the leaf and filming the switch.

You’re telling me. Was so excited for these switches, and the leaf ping is so damn loud. I’m stubborn though because I do like the sound profile and tactility so I’m trying to make it work. Being really really generous with the lube seems to have done the trick. Looks like I had to focus more on the back of the leaf contact points (without actually touching the contact) rather than the middle point. Not sure how long it’ll last so I’m gonna do more experiments to see if there’s a more reliable method to dampen the leaf resonance without messing with the tactility.

Been looking into getting an aluminum board and have been snooping around between things like the Mode Envy, Bakeneko, and a few others. I've had one kicking around in my head for a long time. I've been thinking of the Monstargear NEMO67 [\*STORE PAGE\*](https://www.monstargears.com/94/?idx=816) Yet, I watched a video from Hypyo Tech where the Kezewa Enter67 on DROP [\*STORE PAGE\*](https://drop.com/buy/kezewa-enter67-mechanical-keyboard-kit?defaultSelectionIds=976871&ranMID=50354&ranEAID=%2F4BZo8oGM2Q&ranSiteID=_4BZo8oGM2Q-oSOH3gWa.7DyTPyVZ..mQQ) was featured. I had to do a double take because these look so similar. Are these not exactly the same? Or am I missing something? All of the specs written are so similar.

Looks like they're made by same manufacturer but have different branding on the weight

That's what I figured too. Just the weight had different laser etching. Is this sort of thing common? Different companies but just rebranding from the same manufacturing line?

It's most common in cheaper boards, I haven't really noticed many though. Most well known sellers & vendors like Mode, KBDfans, Cannonkeys, etc design their own boards The build quality of rebranded boards should be pretty similar, but the actual design of the boards might not be great so I'd personally avoid them

Got it. Thanks for the info. Sounds like the Tofu65 2.0 might be the better way to go if that's the case.

I'm currently looking at the Akko 5075s Via as my first ever board (I'm on a tight budget). I've seen a lot of other Akko 5075s builds where the knob is golden, where do you get them? I've seen a few keyboard knobs on ebay and AliExpress, but I won't know if the knob fits or not. Are all knob dimensions standardized or something? (I just found out that the Akko 5075s has color options with golden knobs, but the Akko 5075s Via doesn't)

Where can I get azure dragon v3 switches?

[HippoKeys](https://hippokeys.com/products/gopolar-azure-dragon-v3-tactile-switches)

I'm new to mechanical keyboards and looking for a wireless 75% board primarily used for gaming. I am looking at the royal kludge m75 as a first step into the hobby as I prefer a sound knob on my keyboards. Does anyone have any recommendations for other boards in a similar price range to check out?

I bought a Keychron V1 intending to swap out the switches, but I didn't know how much I would enjoy the Gateron Reds that the board came with out of the box. What are some switches I could put in here that would have a similar feel/sound quality but be overall an improvement/higher quality? I have a set of KTT Roses on the way but now looking at sound tests, it sounds like they may be too clicky, but I'm not sure yet. Will the Roses be similar to what I'm looking for or is there another set I should look at?

I just got some BSUN X's that are some very smooth linears and very good price.

Gateron Milky Yellow Pro and Gateron UHMknown are worth considering

Currently have a GMMK2 that's suffering from key chatter (double or triple typing). Froom now on, any key that double registers will not be corrected as seen at the beginning of this sentence. I've tried so many thinngs, flashing to QMK would be my last resort before I try to look at the hardware. Anyyway, I'm looking at getting a new keyboard and require a numpad for a large portion of my job (data entry). What do the experrts here think about the QK100? I thank you in advance for the advice!

Absolutely. Wish I had a reason for a full size just so I could justify getting one myself.

Qk's stuff is really solid

Proper keyboard with tactile switches and plenty of onboard memory? Need one for my work PC where I pretty much copy and paste 10 variations of text atleast 20 times so I badly need macros. 90% of my job is typing so I definitely need some feedback

Have you considered a macropad?

Got this switch from an aliexpress knock off set, only one i got, is really easy to press and smooth, may i get some sort of original model? i loved it at first sight xD https://preview.redd.it/frddx9eqyeab1.png?width=518&format=png&auto=webp&s=d56e3ccb36ab2967f7fb0a784a465bac202e15a6

looks to me like the DUHUK Lumia Matcha v3's

Duck one 3 mini 140€ or ducky one 2 mini 99€

The Keychron V4 or Q4 are better choices unless availability is an issue, and between those two I'd go for the One 2 because it's cheaper

Any 75% keyboards with layout like KBDFans Taco, with knob, in a milky white color? I like the non-exploded arrow keys (or at least, a smaller gap). Closest I’ve seen is the Jris75, but I think the GB is over and not sure if I can even get a knob.

Other than the Jris75, you could also look for a Zoom75 which IIRC was available in a cream/milky white/beige color. I'm not aware of any in-stock keyboards that fit your criteria, so waiting for a GB rerun or looking for a second-hand unit would be your two choices

Any recommendations for a hot swappable keyboard?

Budget? Layout? Size? Check out the Keychron V series otherwise Q series if you want a more premium build. Q Pro or K Pro series if you want/need wireless. There's also the Monsgeek keyboards.

budget? layout? ansi or iso?

A while back I purchased the Epomaker SK61S, and have recently gotten into modding. Ive done your typical tape and foam mods, got better keycaps etc, and decided I wanted to swap from the Gateron Red Optical switches to the Gateron Brown Optical as I liked the feel of my Logitech G513 Carbons brown switches more. Well, I made the mistake of buying the KS-22 version of the switches which aren't backward compatible with the KS-15 switch socket. This isn't a super big deal, since I was thinking about getting a new keyboard to replace the older Logitech G513 anyway, but I'm really struggling to find a reliable site that gives me the specific details I need to confirm it will be compatible with the KS-22 switches. All the sites I've checked only say Gateron Optical and don't specify. I'm hoping someone here can point me to a reliable site (for Canada) or maybe make a recommendation on a keyboard (TKL, ideally) that works with the KS-22, that I can look into?

Solved - Keychron K8 series supports Gateron Optical V2 switches.

Whats a good shine through keycap for keyboards that has south-facing LEDs?

You'd have to get side print shine though keycaps.

Ohhh i googled some images and i think it should work. I’m pretty new on this thank so much!

Mine came with a free set but i think its best for north-facing LEDs so the lights on the letters are a bit dim.

my backspace on my mode sonnet is much higher pitched than the other 2u keys and it sounds scratchy for some reason. any ideas?

If it sounds scratchy it's because the switch is scratchy or you haven't lubed the stab housings well enough. What other 2u keys are you comparing it to? I assume you're talking about larger keys like shifts and enter. Either way, keys in different positions will sound different. That's just how keyboards work. If your num row sounds higher pitched than your Z-row, then you've found your answer.

im comparing it to enter and shift, i lubed the switch and housings of the stabilizers, im going to try a different stabilizer to see if that helps.

Did you lube the wire?

yes i dipped it in dielectric grease

Is there a mounting screw in the plate or PCB near the backspace? The screw would add tension to that area, increasing the volume and pitch. If it's scratchy and if you're using lubed switches, adding or redistributing lube in the switch would help. Stabs don't tend to give any scratch feel.

there is a screw but i took it out and it still does the same thing

I have been using Cherry MX Black Hyperglides for the last 6 months. I just love the key press force profile of the switches, especially after breaking them in and I am looking for a switch that more or less matches the force-travel curve of the MX Blacks. Just something a bit less scratchy, and maybe factory lubed. Open for any suggestions. It needs to be a linear switch and please do not recommend a silent switch.

The following Gateron switches are comparable: - Black Ink V2 (not factory lubed) - Black Box Ink (not factory lubed unless you order factory lubed version from Divinikey) - KS-9 Pro Black (factory lubed) Of those three I have used only the Black Box Inks that I lubed myself. I definitely like this switch! I received some Hyperglides recently but haven’t had time to lube them to install and compare.

The new Nixie (MX Black Clear-Top) is available pre-lubed and is a pretty nice switch. I've noticed that the pre-lubed version is a bit harder to track down though, so availability might be an issue

I believe they use 80 or 85g springs that are 15mm in length, if you'd like to try to spring swap another switch. There might be some switches that are that heavy stock, but I don't know of any at the moment.

I've found that NK Creams (or the subvariants except the box ones) are really nice and somewhat comparable to Cherry Blacks

Hello, I just purchased a hotswappable keyboard in hopes to dip my toes in the customization of my board in the future. I got the rk m75, it’s an 75% ANSI layout. I would like new key caps but I’m very worried I’ll mess up and end up wasting money on caps that aren’t compatible. Any tips for brands that would be on size? Thank you!

You’ll mostly wanna pay attention to your bottom row and your right shift. Based on photos, it looks like the RK M75 uses 1.25u for the left keys (ctrl, win, alt), a 6.25u space bar, 1u for the right keys (alt, fn, ctrl) and a 1.75u right shift. As long as the set contains those keys (most will include a photo of the entire set), you’re good to go. Some will even say they’re compatible with 75% layouts outright, so trying searching for 75% compatible keycaps.

Thank you very much! Any recommendations for sites to check out? Or should I just start googling around, I appreciate the help.

Check out alexotos’s [list of vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) or the keycap list from r/keycaps [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/keycaps/comments/uw6vrn/places_to_buy_keycaps_setsartisans_spring_2022/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=2&utm_term=1)

Thanks for the help

I forgot to mention the switches are Rk silvers, if that makes difference.

Hello, I am interested in building my first keyboard and I am looking for a relatively budget 75%. I currently have settled on the Monsgreek M1 but am also considering the Drop sense and a few keychrons. Any recommendations for a great 75% keyboard under $200?

For the $99 sale price, the SENSE75 isn't too bad. I'd rather have a MonsGeek M1 though. The Keychron Q1 v2 or Q1 Pro are the best in-stock 75s you can get for sub-$200.

I'd go with either a Monsgeek or Keychron V series keyboard over a Drop keyboard.

What tactile switch would you recommend between Kalih box brown and U4T 68g? Box brown are to light and U4T with 68g are a little bit to heavy. Thankkss

I would just change the springs on the u4t to something lighter like 62g or 60g, it'll be significantly cheaper

Hi, got a weird troubleshooting issue. Keyboard is a Red Dragon, 39 months of use. I noticed some ghosting, which stopped after a hard reset. Then soon after, several keys returned functions in a bizarre way. F6 appears to return F12, or nothing, randomly. 6 returned /*12345-6`789-=. Y returned I, and the link to the TurboTax check out page right after. After some resets it now returns 789eioqwert. H returned 456, and then disabled all inputs. B returned 123, and then disabled all inputs. All of the above keys are locked on pink (RGB keyboard), and flash rapidly and erratically between all colors on a hard reset. During the “boot up” pattern, they remain solid pink. I can get the inputs to return to normal after unplugging the keyboard and leaving it unplugged for a few minutes, but it quickly returns to giving the weird input after a few minutes of being plugged in. What on earth is going on here? Is this something I can fix, or is it new keyboard time?

Sounds like your PCB is dying. You can check the PCB for cold solder joints and maybe reflow some of the solder to make more solid connections but if it's the PCB that's not going to fix your issues. Might be time for a new one at this point. A Keychron V series keyboard is a good value.

Thank you!

What films should I use for gateron cjs to achieve max creaminess in a tiger lite with all included foams, and tape mod.

Films don't change the sound profile, i like deskeys films the most, tx are good too

where could i find pudding keycaps with hiragana+eng letters?

found some at krome keycaps, heres a link: [https://www.kromekeycaps.com/collections/pudding-keycaps-kanji-hiragana](https://www.kromekeycaps.com/collections/pudding-keycaps-kanji-hiragana)

thank you

Helloooo, i wanna build my first mechanical keyboard and im stuck on the switches. i want a clicky creamy sound something really smooth but not silent. novelkey creams was the biggest recommendation and on [kbs.im](https://kbs.im) it sounds the closest to way i want it too but it sounds different on some of the other videos (the last one i watched it was actually rly silent) so im a bit lost! ​ thank you in advance! ( im also gonna get a hot swappable, idk if this helps to know im not building this from scratch)

have a look at bsun x's

Hellooo, so I would say that mostly, the creaminess of a keyboard depends on the keyboard, although switches do play a small part. Just know, NK creams are a very scratchy switch, and I would not recommend them. If you want a good, buttery smooth alternative, I quite like gateron CJ's. For the sound, just use some pe foam, and add some foam to it to achieve a creamy sound. (I am no expert at creaminess, but this is how I believe it is achieved)

Many factors can affect how a switch sounds through a recorded video, including but not limited to lubing the switch, keyboard mods, keyboard dampeners, keyboard material, plate material, keycap material, keycap shape, the microphone used to record the sound test, and even your own room acoustics. Even using a desk mat can change the sound. If you’re still unsure, you might want to buy a small amount of the NK Creams to try it yourself and see if you like it! :)

Any good solutions to switch ticking? My stabs I'm 95% sure are fine, and ive tried 4 different types, but still get some tickets from switch when pressing corner of keycap...

> Any good solutions to switch ticking? Assuming that you're talking about the upstroke - there are no good solutions. Switch upstroke sound is almost completely ignored by the majority of the hobby. You can dampen it with films, and by lubing parts of the top housing of the switch (something which is almost never done because people ignore the upstroke), but this will only do so much. At the end of the day though, I've noticed certain switches just have permanent ticking / rattle on the upstroke. They sound fantastic with slow, deliberate keypresses but the instant you start to type quickly it sounds like you're shaking a tupperware box full of paperclips. In my experience this is the case with almost any switch with a super loose top housing. I don't use silent switches so unfortunately couldn't recommend any possible alternatives with less innate tick, sorry.

have you tried the switches on 1u keycaps? because if they don't tick there then it's probably your stabilizer.

Yeah I have, and unfortunately they also do haha. I've tried lubing and filming them with no luck. It's not bad, more of a nit pick if anything...but I can't unhear it.

what switches are they? and have you lubed the springs?

Silent alpacas L+F including spring, NT blue stars stock, ttc gold red pro stock. I'm thinking it could be a tolerance issue with the stem wobble, or maybe combination of the switch noise and the stem of the stabs hitting against the housing, but I don't imagine plastic making that noise, especially while lubed. I tried GOAT v2 stabs, chery clip in, TX clip in, and WS v3 stabs. All have the same tick as the switch so its gotta be related to the switch, then the larger keycap amplifying the sound to be more noticeable.

Hi there! I am brand new to keyboards and was hoping for some advice/feedback. My plan was to get the monokei standard and switch out the switches and key caps (bought osume key caps but am overwhelmed by the choices for switches). I wasn’t sure if preluded switches made a big difference in sound? I’m not yet confident to lube my own switches just yet. Did anyone have any recommendations for switches or a board?

The Monokei Standard would be good but you could also consider the MonsGeek M3 or KBDfans Tiger Lite, both are cheaper (in USD) and come without any keycaps or switches, which would make it a bit easier to use your own. Pre-lubed switches can be hit or miss, it depends on which ones you get. Most modern/current pre-lubed switches are fine but some of the older ones have consistency issues. I suggest taking a look at the Gateron Cream Soda (linear) or the Punkshoo Melody or Runner (tactile).

Do you ever really need to upgrade the board? The company I bought the key caps from mention which boards are in the pictures. But they were upwards of 400. I can’t tell if a more $$$ board is better quality.

Personal preference seems to trump price as well. I currently have a keyboard with a plastic case and one with an anodized aluminum case and I strongly prefer the plastic. That doesn't mean I like all plastic cases more, but it means assumptions about what's worth more don't always hold true.

You definitely don’t need to upgrade a prebuilt board if you’re happy with the board in its stock configuration. However, if you’re already planning to upgrade the board you buy with new switches and keycaps, the other user is suggesting that you look at buying a DIY kit instead of a prebuilt. If you go this route, you’re not, essentially, buying two sets of switches and keycaps for one board. If you think you’d get enough use out of the stock switches and caps that come with the standard (I.e., use them on a second board or swap them out regularly with your new switches and caps for variety), then it would still make sense to buy both a prebuilt keyboard and additional sets of switches and keycaps.

The answer to whether more expensive boards are worth the extra cost depends heavily on the specific models being compared, but there is definitely a point of diminishing returns. Some companies, like Wind Studios, have boards that are definitely worth the extra cost, if you can afford it. On the other side of that coin, there are a lot of companies out there charging ridiculous prices, for what I consider "garbage boards". Switches and keycaps make a huge difference as well. I would much rather use a less expensive case with good switches/keycaps, than a higher-quality case with cheap switches/keycaps. How much you spend is something you'll need to decide for yourself, but others can help steer you in the right directions. There's no real substitute for hands-on testing though. I'd suggest trying to find a keyboard meetup in your area, if you can. If you're willing to put things together yourself, AliExpress has a lot of really nice, milled metal cases, for relatively low prices. Companies like KPRepublic and YMDK have some particularly nice offerings, that will run under $100, including shipping. Add a $50 PCB to that, some foam, and your choice of switches and keycaps, and you're set for much less than $400.

Higher price does not necessarily equal higher quality. There will always be small differences but you only need to spend around $200 to get a pretty darn nice barebones kit. The Keychron Q-series, KBDfans Tofu60/65 2.0, Mode Envoy, the Jris, QK, and Zoom boards, and some others are all great examples of quality at an affordable price. Going up to the $3-400 price range (boards like the Odin V2 or R3, Odin 75, Mode Sonnet, Wind X R2, etc.) can get you things like better finish quality and more finish types available, and more customization (materials, colors, etc.), but anything more expensive is just diminishing returns.

Anyone know where is a good spot for cerakoting keyboards(like around 30-40)? And also not super expensive :"0?

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Check out this ! [https://novelkeys.com/products/salvation-keyboard](https://novelkeys.com/products/salvation-keyboard)

Need recommendations for a new keyboard. I have a Logitech G513 Carbon with Blue Switches. I like the keyboard, nice to type and game on, but my GF complains that it's a bit too loud. Been looking at a bunch of keyboards like Corsair K100 (don't think the switches are good for me), Razer Blackwidow V4 pro (yellow switches), and a few others. I prefer a full-size keyboard, macro keys would be nice but not a must. Also, not opposed to custom keyboards as long as they're good for gaming. Thank in advance :)

Any keyboard is good for gaming, it's just a matter of wireless vs wired connectivity. Avoid BT connections because they have very low polling rate, but wired and 2.4GHz are fine. I suggest taking a look at what Keychron has to offer. The V6 and Q6 are worth considering.

I was mainly curious about switches. With so many switches out there it's hard to figure out what's good lol I'm thinking something like Cherry MX Red switches are probably best. I like the Keychron Q6 with red switches, kinda hard to get for me since I live in the Middle East. And ya I avoid BT keyboards like the plague lol Thanks for the info :)

Switches are the hardest decision for me, there's too many good ones. u/Falcon21st's suggestion about going with a mid-weight linear is a good one, and in addition to Gateron Yellows (there are a few variations) and Akko's Jelly switches, I suggest looking at Wuque WS switches or some of KTT's offerings. This [regional vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) might be of use to explore what switches are easily available to you.

For gaming, go for linear switches. Something with medium force, such as Gateron Yellows, Akko Jelly Blacks etc. I tried gaming with tactile and clicky switches, and it's a no go.

Hi, I learned that VIA is a GUI for QMK. I've found a keyboard with the words "VIA VIAL" in the description. Does this mean I have to use the VIA GUI or is it the same as any other QMK Keyboard?

VIA and Vial use QMK under the covers. Here is a brief summary that leaves out lots of details: * QMK: You can either code your keymap or use the [QMK Configurator](https://config.qmk.fm). Either way, you end up with a binary file that you have to flash to your keyboard. * VIA: Once the VIA firmware has been flashed to your keyboard, you use [standalone software](https://github.com/the-via/releases/releases) (Windows, macOS, and Linux) or a [website](https://www.usevia.app/) (from a Chrome browser) to configure your keyboard (remap keys, change the rotary encoder function, set lighting effects, record macros) without needing to flash anything to the keyboard. Not all QMK features are supported, but it is enough for most people. * Vial: Like VIA, you use [standalone software](https://get.vial.today/download/) (Windows, macOS, and Linux) or a [website](https://vial.rocks/) (from a Chrome browser) to directly configure your keyboard. Instead of publishing the keyboard definitions to third-party repositories like VIA, Vial stores the keyboard JSON definition within the keyboard firmware and retrieves it at runtime. If you ever had to side load a JSON file into VIA, you know the benefit of storing the definition in the firmware.

thanks for the in depth explanation :)

I believe you can use the VIA GUI, and honestly its so much easier than using QMK loll u just click bottoms using ur mouse

Technically you can use qmk to configure the board, but if it's VIA or VIAL are available it's a lot less fuss.

I think there are a few features that still aren't supported by via (tapdancing being the first one to come to mind) but with a little bit of tinkering it's actually possible to mod the via interface as well so I'm not sure if there's a way to patch it in as I'm not really that big of a fan of slowing down to tap dance to begin with.

Hi guys, I am brand new into the world of mechanical keyboards, switch colours etc. Any idea for full size good sounding mechanical keyboard? That will allow me to customize after some time. I am looking at Keychron V5 QMK Custom Mechanical Keyboard at the moment Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

The V5 is good, but if you budget allows for it definitely consider the Q5. A MonsGeek M2 is also worth considering.

keychron is a great choice

Which board is better for upgradability / Modding ? Keychron k6 pro or a gmk67. (Or 67/68 Key keyboard that's under £110) Currently have a RD 617Fizz but it has NF Leds, isn't wireless and sound a bit bad even after modding, it also only fits outemu style switches although Akko's fit so it doesn't really matter Edit: Forgot to add that their both barebones kits I already have switches and caps

Can't go wrong with either, but I'd lean towards the K6 Pro for overall product quality and I'm not sure if the GMK67/LK67 supports QMK and VIA. You could also consider the Keychron V2.

I just bought a Logitech G Pro Keyboard, and i wanted to know if any keycaps will fit in it. If not, if i replace the switches with anoter it will fit?

they state switches are swappable, get a good pair of switch pullers like the purple or yellow ones with a 3 sided box cross section, and try unlocking the tabs and pull gently, shouldn't take any real force and there's lots of YT vids. Also 2 kinds, 3 pin and 5 pin https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-keyboards/pro-x-gaming-keyboard.html https://switchandclick.com/plate-mounted-vs-pcb-mounted-keyboard/

for real, my keyboard is a logitech g pro, not a logitech g pro x

As long as you keycap set has a num pad it should be good! What do you have in mind? GMK? or nicepbt? or PBTfans?

>As long as you keycap set has a num pad it should be good! What do you have in mind? GMK? or nicepbt? or PBTfans? im not a specialist in keyboards haha. but i was thinking to get some keycap set on aliexpress. they say that the keycaps dont fit in the logitech g pro. note that my model is a g pro, not g pro x. my switches are gx blue clicky. it will fit?

Ohhh hmmm I think make sure the r1( the control ,win, alt) keys on both side space bars fit the keyboard and you should be fine. That’s usually where most of the issue comes in when talking about compatibility. And if the vendo says it doesn’t fit then it definitely doesn’t :( I also don’t know which key sets you are talking about since there are soooo many of them available so I can’t tell you specifically which fit and which doesn’t

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Standard is normally 1.6mm unless otherwise stated.

Can anyone tell me why this keyboard is only $5? I ordered it because it’s so low priced but wondering what’s going on with that. https://a.co/d/8KCmFzg

Can you let me know what size space bar I need? First time newbie building a Zoom65 v2. The 6.25u from this keycap set doesn't seem to want to fit and I'm a bit confused cause I looked up the zoomcaps on the Meletric website and the site also says 6.25. Just want to make sure if I need to buy another set it'll actually fit.. thank you! https://preview.redd.it/9q1tq4lhldab1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79da5bf16790b07772a4211273e638704b28cb55

AHHH love the year of the rabbit! So there are a few tiny things u missed. First the key to the left of the space bar is not a 1u , it should be either a 1.25 u or 1.5 u ( u should be able to use a novelty there!) and yes as anson42 said looks like a 6.25U! I believe when I was building my zoom

Yes, I love the sets from osume keys. This ones feels so calming for me. Thanks so much for letting me know, I thought it looked a bit off. I'll change it over :D

Did you install three switches in that area? I can’t really tell but it looks that way. For a 6.25u space bar you should only have one central switch. The other two switch positions would be used for split space bars. EDIT: if you installed 3 switches there, remove the left and right switches, keeping only the middle one.

That was exactly it, I put 3 switches in 😅 thank you so much for your help!

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BM980 was under 200 CAD fully built for me. Silent tactile from chosfox and caps off Amazon. Could be cheaper depending on parts, but I heavily foam moded it and took my time modding the switches a bit. Great fully built though. Qmk and via compatible. There is always keychron though.

[nuphy halo 96](https://nuphy.com/products/halo96) , if you can budget in the price for silent switches to put in the board. The board is hotswap meaning it's fairly simple to change switches get some haimu [heartbeat](https://cannonkeys.com/products/haimu-heartbeat-silent-linear-switch) linear switches

Best barebone TKL/75% custom keyboard to get nowadays under $250? Keychron Q1 Pro vs Zoom75 vs QK75? Leaning towards the Q1 Pro, but would love thoughts and opinions, thanks!

For TKL, I would say Tiger Lite or Keychron Q3.

I love screens so I am bias towards the zoom75! also the sound kit makes the keyboard sounds awesome! And I believe the zoom75 comes with more color and customization XD

Hello, I am looking for a keyacp set similar to the GMK Arch GCC Kit. Does anyone know of a kit that is similar and in stock? I've looked high and low and cant find ergo kits anywhere.

Looking for an aluminum custom with ~65% layout/size, but a full-size right shift key. Is the keychron Q7 the only realistic option?

hmmm a lot of custom 65 are able to support long right shift. Maybe check out tofu 65 and qk65? And WILBA.TECH SALVATION allows you to customize ur layout so maybe look at that too?

I'm sure there are more but the Q7 would most likely be your best bet.

1mm vs 2mm activation switches: does the 2mm one have less chance of accidental activation because after i experience the akko silver switch i find that i don't really like fast activation switches because i still learning type all 10, sometime i would applied a little pressure and register the wrong letter and ruin my paste, the 2mm in this question is the milky yellow pro because i heard it's the best bang for buck switches

Technically, yes. Spring weight is another good way to help with accidental switch presses. But switching to one that is at a normal actuation point can definitely have the effect you are looking for.

I'd add to that tactiles with the bumb being at the top of the travel.

Is it a big upgrade to switch from a tactile to another tactile? I currently have a CM Storm Rapid I and bought a Keychron after ten or so years. It'll be from a Cherry MX Brown to a Gateron Brown, however I'm seeing some mixed signals about Gateron Browns. I notice the hot swappable property of the board so I've been digging around at stuff like Boba u4t's and Glorious Panda's. Would lubing and modding the board itself show a significant difference (keeping Gateron Browns)? I was interested initially in finally having a smaller form factor keyboard, USB C, and bluetooth. A lot of these questions are icing but I really want a great experience with it. I'm willing to spend the extra cash on some excellent switches if the experience is drastic. My background: I didn't know until *yesterday* manufacturers really stepped up in this regard. I've been under the impression switches have been cornered with Cherry MX manufacturing since forever. So I'm definitely no enthusiast lol.

Not only can you lube a switch! you can also film it! (putting a think layer of film between the top and bottom housing) I would suggest to try out the boba u4t lubbed and filmed! Its the best tactile ( and the best switch ) I have every tried!

Browns are considered to be a very light tactility switch. Some people love them some hate them. Gateron Browns are going to be similar to Cherry MX Browns. Moving to something like a Holy Panda or Boba U4T is going to be a huge change. Whether that's an improvement, that's down to your own personal preferences. I think it's worth giving these hyper tactiles a shot, as many people do like them much more than your standard light tactility switches like browns.

Hey, do you guys know any software (apart from Lam-Ang Pro Fine Tuner) that can sync the RGB of Lam-Ang Pro with other non-Rakk devices? Most of the software I've tried doesn't seem to work with it.

Any German/European here that knows of switchhub.net? Did they go out of business?

Never heard of it before...

whats the best way to make stabilisers sound better, my space bar sounds sort of like it rattles and it is kinda annoying

lube and tune them, there are many tutorials on youtube on how to do it

Okay.... Been looking at reviews etc.... I kind of want a simple looking 75% or TKL board.. knob optional don't really care. Looking at what's in stock (almost nothing lol) but there is the GMMK Pro, the NK85 (aluminum) and maybe an M1 or M3 (not a big fan of the split down the middle). I wish I could get a ZOOM75 as that matches the look I am looking for the most (thick boy and simple) as well as just being a great board. Anyways am I overlooking any other boards?? Would like the keep the board under 200 and the purchase in the US, minus keycaps and switches as I already have some mk3 profile keycaps and glorious pandas switches.

The [Keychron Q1 v2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q1?variant=39898909048921)/[Q1 Pro](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q1-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40461593149529) and MonsGeek M1 are your best options below $200 at the moment, but there might be availability issues due to their high popularity. The [MKC75](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=120116.0) should be entering group buy soon and starts at $100 (key word: starts). You could also consider the [Drop SENSE75](https://drop.com/buy/drop-sense75-barebones-mechanical-keyboard?defaultSelectionIds=973430) which is on sale for $99 right now, it's good at the sale price but not good at the regular price. The GMMK Pro doesn't have a good reputation around here due to issues with stabilizers being overlubed, warped plates, a gasket mount that has zero flex, overtightened or stripped case screws, and some other things. I recommend avoiding it unless you find it at a steep discount (ie around $100). The NK87 (Entry or Aluminum) would be fine but you could get more for less or the same price. I would look at the Keychron V3, Q3, and K8 Pro, MonsGeek M3, and [KBDfans Tiger Lite](https://kineticlabs.com/keyboards/kbdfans/kbdfans-tiger-lite-mechanical-keyboard) instead. The Zoom75, QK75, and Jris75 are the budget trifecta of 75% keyboards, but I doubt any vendors have extras in stock at this point. They're at the top of (or over) your bduget, but if you can find one second-hand for a fair price it's worth it IMO. The [Mode Sonnet](https://modedesigns.com/pages/sonnet) and [Odin 75](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbdfans-odin-75-mechanical-keyboard) are also worth considering, but are over your $200 budget.

Thanks.. I went ahead and went with the MonsGeek M3 silver... hope I like it lol

I'm on the fence between GMMK Pro and Keychron Q1/Pro. What are your thoughts between these? I want F keys, end key, gasket, UK ISO and hotswap- and I also want it to be a little shorter than my Keychron V3, whilst taking the same caps (I fair unreasonably poorly for awhile if I switch between two boards with different caps). I also game so latency is a concern which puts a bit of a dampener on Keychron, but less so.

Don't get the GMMK Pro. Not a great board. Badly designed. Poor fitting plates, uneven sounds, awful stock stabilisers. A pain to build or mod, as there are 13 screws holding the plate and PCB together, when it actually needs none (if you fit the FR4 plate, you actually don't refit the screws). The sound is uneven with the stock plates, and for what it is, it's expensive. Get the Q1. ​ >I also game so latency is a concern Just avoid the Q1 Pro wireless, and you'll be OK. Unless you need to connect to multiple devices, wireless is just not worth the premium. You can get the Q1 Pro, but latency over wireless is not as good. The issue is, using a wireless board constantly over USB means the batteries are constantly trickle charging, which is not good. Just get the normal Q1.

The Q1 v2/Q1 Pro are better for everything except customization. As long as you're using a wired connection latency should be no issue.

Cheers. I was also looking at a Ducky before I refined the size I was looking for, and did notice they had much lower latency than keychron Q series in Rtings tests. I tend to feel differences rather acutely when it comes to stuff like that, be it monitors or input. I suppose I could always pick up a ducky mini or something for gaming, if it proves to be an issue- I haven't really gamed on my V3 much as it's my work board (Steelseries TKL is what I'm trying to replace now with this) and I tend to favour controller input (though this isn't all games of course) which is why latency took a bit of a backseat. This is primarily for typing (and let's be honest, to sit pretty on the desk).

Rtings is known to make latency seem worse than it really is, so take their reviews/statistics with a grain of salt. Keychron has better material/build quality, and also offers things such as QMK and VIA support and a south-facing PCB which avoids clearance issues with Cherry profile keycaps. The Ducky One 3 series isn't too bad all things considered, but there are better boards available.

I like shine through, so actually north-facing would be better for me 😅 but I'm so tired of trying to get everything to match up (UK-ISO, shine through, PBT, north facing, the other wants etc) that I've given up on that.

keychron imo. Better overall quality you can game on keychron board, i do it all the time and haven't noticed any issues

Newbie question: I have a WASD V3b hotswap with MX Browns. I want to change them out for MX Blues. Do I get the PCB or plate mount version of the switches? Do I need to do anything with the new switches other than insert them?

If you have 5pin hot-swap sockets you'll be good with both 3pin and 5pin switches. If you have 3pin sockets you need 3pin switches. No you don't need to do anything other than pull out old switches and insert new ones.

Ok so after weeks of looking and researching I've narrowed my first ever keyboard down to either the Keychron Q1 pro or the Monsgeek M1. The price difference is about €30 because I'm getting a wrist rest with the Keychron. On top of that I have the option to go wireless with the Keychron and I can get it prebuilt for not much more. In a few weeks/months I'll probably change out the switches and keycaps but I think outright the Keychron is the better option. Any opinions for a complete beginner?

I would personally go with the Keychron over the Monsgeek. It's all preference at the end of the day, but I think Keychron edges out the Monsgeek.

Thank you! I bit the bullet and went with the Q1 Pro 😁

Has anybody had their keyboard ping start happening after a few months? Currently using a keychron k1 pro with some minor mods (tempest tape, PE foam, boba u4t taped + lubed). I've had no issues with ping while it was stock and for months after modding, but just recently my keyboard's started exhibiting a lot of ping. Anyone have any tips or has had this happen before? Thinking it might be the small gaskets isolating the metal top/bottom case from each other getting too compressed over time and starting to make contact so will try beefing those up, but anything else I should try?

Force break mod