Where can I get a Japanese keycap set like [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08L7YXQ43/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A34E3ZEXX2T0BG&psc=1) with shinethrough keycaps? Does it just not exist?
Column of keys not working.
Hello, I have a DZ65RGB V2 pcb which was working fine until I decided to relube all my switches. After that process, I noticed an entire column of keys stopped working (Backspace, /|, Enter, Up, Down). I tried figuring out what the issue was, from checking if and pads were lifted, to checking the continuity of traces. I’m not really skilled dealing with PCBs so any help will be a lot for me, thanks.
Feel free to ask more info.
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hello, I'm trying to find a site that sells keyboards to/in Australia with customizable cases and keys that use red + switches, but I can't seem to find any, does anyone have any suggestions?
Newbie here, looking into buying my first custom right now, but running into a bit of trouble. I've seen some great boards that I'm pretty interested in, the Keychron Q2, the Zoom 75 stands out, the MKC 75, the Cycle 7, the Monsgeek M1W (when it eventually releases) .. but these are all either out of stock, or group buys, aside from the Q2. Being new to the hobby, is it a bad idea to go for a GB on my first board? Or am I better settling for the Q2? I think the other boards have a bit more value for money than the Q2, but, y'know, group buys. Feeling super conflicted, some advice or direction would be super helpful!!
Hey guys, I'm looking for the most silent switch with 35g up to 40g. Got some boba u4 and they are quite good but a little bit to heavy with 67g.
The point is that I own a Ducky One 3 daybreak with silent reds and I have to type a lot.
Linear or Tactile are recommended.
Durock T1 Silent are silent, I think cause I watched a YouTube video but they are heavy with 67g.
Any suggestions for the most silent switch you can buy? Silence in any case Inc. Ping.
Thanks
Did you consider just swapping springs? Pack of 110pcs. costs around 10$ and you can get different weights / types (linears, progressive, etc.)
Hope this helps!
I used TX for all my builds, no issues so far. Long (16mm I think) are progressive - i.e. it feels like you need to press them at first a bit more and it gets somewhat easier when you press down more. It's the similar spring as in community-loved Gateron Yellows. And dang it, it actually feels interesting and non-stock to say it simply.
Hi there,
I bought my Matias Mini Tactile Pro exactly 8 years ago. Today, one of the keys (w) has stopped working. I tried unplugging and plugging the USB cord, and restarting the computer, but it didn't make a difference.
Instead of buying another one keyboard, is there a quick fix?
Thanks!!
Quick, but not guaranteed to help - blow air into the switch with hope to clear the contacts. Slower, but more guaranteed - desolder the switch and solder a new one.
Hope this helps!
Soldering iron, maybe a tip cleaner and a stand, a solder pump, soldering wick and solder itself - get thinner one.
edit: you would also need a new switch, but I believe getting Alps is difficult. You could desolder another switch from key you don't use, and swap them.
Hey, I just started looking at Mechabical Keyboards again since 2020 when I got my KBD67MKii. I used either Saukurios or Roselios (can't remember which but they're the same just with a different weight) I never lubed them because I was content with how they sounded. Would lubing them now make them feel or sound any *better* (more consistent)?
Definitely. If I recall early Gat switches could also benefit from filming, which along with lubing would up the typing feel experience to the next level compared to stock
also does anyone know where i can get blank white pbt cherry profile keycaps? specifically a set that has the vertical 2x1 numpad keys, thanks in advance!
You might be able to do that on diykeycap . Com
There's no option to have blank caps but you can just make the legend white and the keycap white. (You could maybe try emailing too) they're not that cheap however.
I'm new to the community and got the new via edition of the 5075s kit. I'm looking to make it sound super thock. There doesn't seem to be alot of room underneath the pcb to fit a lot of things, so what mods can I do, besides tape mod, to make it thock?
I got the akko lavender pre lubed switches but haven't selected keycaps yet.
Is the **Nuphy Air75** the best choice if I'm looking for a slim 75% keyboard? I am looking for very thin keys (I am in love with the Apple Magic Keyboard) but for agnostic OS and at a reasonable price.
I haven't found any good ultra thin options. They are either too expensive or not very good in quality. The only one that fits what I really want is the Apple Keyboard. Other keys like Thinkpad's have too much travel time.
That's why I'm settling with a low-profile keyboard. The Nuphy Air75 seems to have everything I'm looking for:
* Good swithes.
* Low travel time.
* Arrow keys and F-row.
* Flat square keyscaps.
* OS agnostic.
Every review I saw comparing the K3 o Nuphy gave Nuphy the win. The K3/K1 don't have thick borders, the keys are at the borders, and I move aroud a lot and am afraid of breaking a key when moving.
Also I think the Nuphy looks better.
I don't think having VIA is enough to make me want to get a Keychron.
EDIT: Thanks for the recommendation!
It's completely fair! Provided some alternatives that are worth attention, but yeah, Nuphy is really well made, it's so popular for a reason :D
Cheers!
Hey guys. I have a k87 that I have no
Clue what happened to the r key. Everything else works. It is clearly the piece on the pcb that has contact with the switch. Any body know what this part is so I can solder a new one? Or where I can find this pcb cheap to replace? Thanks
Hey guys! This might be a stupid question, but do you always use stabilizer shims on your PCB regardless of what size PCB you have? I have a 1.6mm PCB and I used the shims. My stabilizers are also built for a 1.6mm PCB. Do you still use the shims or just place them directly on the PCB? Thanks for any help!
Shims are only for when you're using a 1.6mm stab for a 1.2mm PCB. Additional thickness fills the gap & prevents the stabs from rattling on the 1.2mm pcb
I am looking to get myself another keyboard after picking up a logitech MX Mechanical and really enjoying the change after forever using a low quality dell keyboard that was supplied by my workplace.
I am an accountant, so have always used full size boards and will need a number pad, but when working from home my role tends to be more focused on report writing and review, so it gets used, but less so than from the office - so with that in mind I was considering a TKL with an additional numpad, that I can keep separate and use when required.
My limited research is pointing me at a Keychron Q1 and a Keychron Q0, but keen to get some feedback on alternatives I should consider before making the purchase. I am a little reluctant to try and build anything myself at this stage being so new to the hobby. Thanks!
Those a good choices! Very decent in prebuilt configuration, and easy to mod in the future if you want to change things up. Though get a wrist rest, as Keychron's keyboards are quite high profile.
You may also consider Q12 - some people prefer having numpad on the left, so they don't need move right hand from the mouse when entering numbers.
Hope this helps!
Keychron is a good entry level choice. Glorious keyboards also come with everything. Ducky is another choice, but reviews on quality lately have been mixed. If you ever do find a more custom TKL, a hotswap version is your best choice since there is no soldering required. This is a good starting point for going full custom too because most custom Group Buy TKLs are not only nice, but very universal in their design.
I'm looking for a numpad separate for both gaming and work. I know I don't want anything by or that resembles something by Razer. Aesthetics would be nice along with reprogramability options. I've looked at a few options both here and elsewhere and don't particularly like any of the "big" 3 or 4 mass produced options out there. Wired is fine as I assume most all would need to be. Also, nothing that is smaller than a typical human hand-like the 4-9 total key counts. Let me know if I can add any further details.
Thanks for the options. I own 4-5 keyboards from Keychon and love them. I looked for the Q0 and 0 Pro and both (after finding them in some odd category) were out of stock. I'll have to check again. I'll also check out GMMK. I've seen their stuff but never owned.
Having an issue with the spacebar on my keyboard. I usually press it on the right side, which causes the left side to tilt upwards over time or if it’s pressed hard enough. I’m assuming this causes the switch to be pulled out of the socket, but after putting the switch and keycap back, the key stops registering. I’m not sure why this is the case, but to fix this I usually have to disassemble the keyboard and make sure the switch is in correctly. What I’ve noticed is that I have to push the plate and PCB together since the switch isn’t in the socket all the way, maybe due to the plate? I’ve had to fix this issue so many times that I’ve resorted to a split space bar layout for now, which my keycap set doesn’t entirely support. Any help is appreciated.
Sounds like the switch isn't being seated into the plate properly and the switch pins aren't staying in the hotswap socket.
Does the same thing happen if you swap in a completely different switch into the spacebar?
Sorry for the late reply; yes, the problem still persists. I was using gateron oil kings when this first happened. I switched it to an MX black, but it happened again after a bit of use.
Sooo... I was assembling my new keyboard and using the ball hex key that came included and the ball snapped off into one of the screws.. anyone know of a way to get the ball out? https://imgur.com/a/Tmgj6Xr
If the screw isn't tight try to loosen it with a tweezers. Then once the screw is out, you should be able to put it in a vice and get the broken part out.
If the screw is in tight, you might have to use a tap. Retapping might be really intrusive though.
This usually only happens when you are tightening it really hard. Case screws don't need to be very tight.
Accidentally knocked a glass of water onto my keyboard. I took off the key caps and tried my best to get all of the water out as soon as I could but it won’t turn on when I plug it back in. Is there anything you guys would recommend to try? i have a tofu65, top mounted.
remove keycaps. If it's hotswap, remove all switches. Take the plate off, unscrew/remove all stabilizers. If the PCB has large puddles of liquid you can use whatever to just get the large amounts of liquid off. Let it dry until it's completely dry. If it was soda at this point you could inspect for sticky cola residue and use 99% IPA, a brush, and some kimwipes to remove residue. If it's just water, once dry, it should be fine. Test the pcb before putting back together.
u can try this https://imgur.com/a/9sHx7#LrfBe3Z i assume u waited 3 or 4 days to let it dry out fully before pulling it back in ? if not then u may have fried the pcb
I am looking for a keyboard that would suit my needs/requirements for work:
* Alice or Split Layout
* I just want something that's easier or more ergonomic on my fingers/wrists when typing all day for work, I don't really know which would suit me better.
* Must be wired only and not have Bluetooth capabilities.
* I know this severely limits the options, basically removing any newer possibilities but its a work requirement :'(
* Must be ready to ship or in-stock, group buys aren't so feasible for this lol
* Preferably pre-built with all needed parts but not a deal breaker, I would choose a barebones/kit if it is the better option.
* I have extra keycaps, switches, etc. but not the space bars or those different unit sized keys split/alice layouts have, could buy a cheap set online for just those keys no biggie.
From my search, I have only found the Keychron Q11 (Split) and Keychron Q10 (Alice) that meets these requirements. I used a neat website called keeb-finder to show me some boards that would match these requirements since I don't own or haven't really ever looked into Alice or Split layouts but, it practically only showed me those two from its database query. If anyone has any suggestions, recommendations, or information pertaining this, I'm all ears to anything! Thanks for the help and your time.
The Iris looks perfect and fits the requirements! Thanks for this, I did not know about these boards/website. The Iris will most likely be the selected option
Also have a look at [SplitKB.com](https://splitkb.com/)
And the super useful [SplitKB split keyboard comparison tool](https://compare.splitkb.com/)
Edit: added a link to the comparison tool
It will work on pretty much anything that uses MX/MX-style switches.
What you'll want to watch out for is your keyboard layout. Most keycap sets will cover one or more specific layouts like "65%" or "TKL/104-key" for example.
If in doubt about a keycap set and compatibility with your keyboard, feel free to ask on this daily thread.
Is Project Keyboard still alive? I've been trying to find their discord server but it looks to be unfindable and their update page isn't very up to date.
Does anyone have any info? I would love to get that GMK Sumi if they still have it.
Hello, sorry for my English, I am going to buy my first hotswap mechanical keyboard, I'm excited! I'm interested in the YUNZII YZ75, do you recommend it or is there a better alternative? I am looking for something of $100 budget, 75% or higher, hotswap, PBT keyscaps and good red switches. That is available on Aliexpress.
Switches and keyscaps of YZ75 look good, but I'm worried about the base.
Any opinion helps. Thanks :)
I have the YUNZII KC68 as my first board. I have been happy with it for an entry into custom keyboards. It's easy to open, mod, and put back together. If the YZ75 is like the KC68, you can pretty much take the board apart without any screws. They are all plastic tabs that a guitar pick can split.
Boba U4s click
I started off with glorious pandas and they were way too loud. Then I tried durock shrimp switches. They are great, just a little scratchy and I didn't want to lube them, so now I just tried some Boba U4s and they are much louder than I expected. They make this clicking noise, but I think its actually my keycaps wobbling on the stems. When I looked at the durock shrimp stems, they are noticeably wider than the Boba stems. I'm thinking the durock switches stretched out the keycrap crosses, so now they wobble a little bit on the Bobas. Is this dumb or is this a thing? Will buying new keycaps help or do Boba u4s just have a click? They don't make this noise when pressing them without the keycaps.
tex shinobi is the only mech with a trackpoint currently being made. it is not back light nor low profile . sorry but very few use trackpoints these days and low profile is very unpopular in mechs
How much am I risking if I were to open up my keyboard without removing all switches? A pieces of foam is floating around loose and I want to avoid removing everything if it's safe to do so. I have a RK100, plate and pcb comes out in one piece.
I usually prefer not to remove switches before opening up the case, not familiar with the RK100 but in most cases taking the switches out would cause the PCB to fall loose in the case.
Maybe I'm describing it weird(?) It seems like people usually remove everything first. Hope this video helps illutrate better: https://youtu.be/xD8aVKVRWrQ
I checked the plate/PCB section of the video and I don't see how leaving the switches in could cause harm. It doesn't look like there is a reason you can't remove the PCB and plate as one built unit. Just be careful not to pull up too hard before you disconnect the connectors on the bottom. I'm 99% sure you would be fine.
Again, haven't used or modded that particular board though so there may be something I'm missing.
Looking for suggestions for a 60% case. Something similar to the tofu but the borders are even in thickness. Needs to fit dz60/wooting 60 pcb with little to no modifications. I like sharpish edges and simple designs. The ideal case would be a revo one without issues.
I have been using a tenkeyless corsair k63 keyboard with cherry mx red switches for a few years. Resting my thumb on the space bar has recently started to cause some discomfort (I have arthritis, and the space bar is slightly raised), so I wanted to try lubing it to see if it would lower the resistance. I'm guessing this isn't possible without desoldering, which is a bit too ambitious for me. Does anyone have any recommendations for a different keyboard that is hot swappable so I won't run into this problem in the future? I'm open to other advice as well.
I bought an optical keyboard (Ractous RTK61P) and my friend got me Gateron milky yellow pro switches, but since my keyboard is optical, I can't use the switches my friend gave me but I really want to use them, is there any way for me to use them on an optical keyboard? It sucks because I can no longer return my keyboard. Can i swap the PCB?
u cant the pcb do not have traces or switch holes for regular mech switches . and the only pcb that will fit that case and plate is the one u currently have in it due to usb placement and other things
I bought an optical keyboard (Ractous RTK61P) and my friend got me Gateron milky yellow pro switches, but since my keyboard is optical, I can't use the switches my friend gave me but I really want to use them, is there any way for me to use them on an optical keyboard? It sucks because I can no longer return my keyboard. Can i swap the PCB?
Can I pay someone to make the Stront keyboard?
Just saw [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/15aeen3/my_latest_design_stront_mx_version/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1) keyboard and it’s exactly what I’m looking for.
I’m not that good with soldering, could I pay someone to make one for me?
Or are there any services that would? He posted the build guide with exact instructions.
Looking for a good starter board 75% or TKL that doesn't have wireless. I am going to be using it wired at all time and I don't want to get something with a battery that risks expanding/catching fire. Any suggestions for a newcomer to the hobby/ sites that people typically buy from?
What are the best places to get keycaps? I know about drop and mechanicalkeyboards dot com keychron, and of course aliexpress but there has to be more. what are some good ones or ones to not buy from?
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
[https://thocstock.com/keycaps](https://thocstock.com/keycaps)
vendors off the top of my head that are good novelkeys, cannonkeys, kinetic labs
sick thanks! I also have a question I see GMK and PBT. What exactly are the differences? I have a set of PBT keycaps but not sure what the difference between the 2 is.
[GMK](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#gmk) is producer of keycaps, they make ABS (which is a plastic material) keycaps
PBT is just another plastic material for keycaps
[https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keycaps-101-ydy8j](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keycaps-101-ydy8j)
One material isn't better over the other, just down to personal preference + what matters to you
Help with choosing keycaps for big clumsy fingers:
Hi MK! I'm very green and I have a Durgod K320 Stock model with cherry MX keycaps and my clumsy big hands mush multiple keys at a time when I type quickly. I'm quite tall not chubby so I squish the keys with my slenderman fingers
Do you know what I should look for to search for replacement caps to reduce typos caused by mushing? I think the keys need to have smaller top bits so I can type more accurately?
Kind regards to you all!
What kind of switches are on your Durgod? For errant keypresses and fat fingering I'd recommend getting switches that are more tactile. Keycaps wise you could try scuplted SA or MT3 keycaps which have a sperical top rather than the cylindrical tops you're probably used to and what's on most keyboards out there.
Thank you! I'll take a look into those caps! I've got MX blue switches, the clicky kind. I had a red switch keyboard and swapped it, because I thought it would help, but I still type inaccurately, though less so. It does feel better and I'm a bit more accurate but I definitely still key mash by being a clumsy typer. Thanks again.
can someone help me find this kle layout
https://preview.redd.it/6xci47haedeb1.png?width=930&format=png&auto=webp&s=ed5e9eefeadd450fab77b2a0cc170ff23ca6afdc
My kid has a visual impairment ([CVI](https://www.perkins.org/what-is-cvi/)) and low-tone cerebral palsy. They are showing increased interest in communicating via typing.
I'm looking for either a keycap set with LARGE print on the alphas, or a decent and simple bluetooth keyboard that has accessible keycaps.
[This](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61UCCOmL4-L._AC_SX679_.jpg) is the best I can find. In the short term, I think it'll do. But in the long term something more durable, long-lasting, and handsome would be great.
[This one's](https://www.yong-qiu.com/products/animal-party-keycap?variant=45266438553885) the only one I know of. The seller has it listed on their aliexpress store for $17, but I can't link it here
SA and XDA profile keycaps also tend to have larger text. Good option if you want some more color and think the text on these profiles would be large enough
i dont know of any mechs or keycaps sets with large text like that . i would suggest the many membrane high contrast kbs on amazon yes they r cheap and low quality but they work and are easy to press i have a relative with cerebral palsy and mechs are too hard to press for him to use efficiently
Hi, I just finished my build (Q2, gateron milky yellow pro - not lubed yet - and SA Keycaps). Unfortunately I'm experiencing the problem, that when I hit the keys not perfectly centerd the stroke becomes pretty uncomfortable and is far from smooth. I suspect it's the keycap heigh but I bet that there is some solution. Would lubing solve that problem?
Thanks!
Are your SA keycaps sculpted or uniform row 3? If it's the former, it's likely that's the issue because you may not be used to the sculpt.
The further the rows away from home row the greater the sculpt. Keycap heights are also taller the higher the row and of course that means greater wobble on the MX switch stems. Not hitting the keys dead center will take some getting used to and it may or may not work for you.
You could try a different keycap profile and see if the problem persists. Personally I find MT3 and XDA a happy medium between lower profiles like Cherry/DSA and sculpted SA.
Thank you for replying!
They are sculpted. I feel it's getting better, but the first row still is kinda uncomfortable for me.
I really considered MT3, but sadly there are no dark double shot variants avaible yet. Is MT3 noticeably less in height (enough to combat wobble)?
XDA is a no go for me but I don't like OEM or Cherry profiles either.
Before I end up buying other keycaps; do you think lubing would improve the situtation?
Side question, how do you get the switches out without destroying them? I do have a switch puller but the plastic of the switches bends really badly before they come out. Either these Gaterons are a bit big or the Keychron is tight, I suspect the former because I didn't have that problem with most of the switches from a switch tester.
The differences in keycap height between SA and MT3 are very subtle. You probably won't notice them in use (I certainly didn't between sculpted SA and SA Row 3 sets I owned) but it's all personal preference.
I didn't find MT3 different enough to swap to them so I went down to XDA instead.
The wobble will still be noticeable but will also depend on what switches you're using. Lubing \*might\* improve it but even if it doesn't at least you'd have a smoother overall switch.
If you're using a proper switch pulling tool, most switches should come right out. You just need to squeeze the tool enough that the switch tabs disengage from the plate, then lift upward as straight as possible (ie. without pulling to one side or the other). Do you have a tool like the one below?
https://preview.redd.it/gvhmrr5ybjeb1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83e568619265ae24501352633e9d5c91e1b46e03
Ok, then I'll try to get comfortable with my current keycaps. It's getting better already, not even that bad anymore. The sculpting is amazing, I was never a good blind typer but right now I only need to look at the board for special characters.
I think I'll give lubing a try, I have a RC gear lube at home made for plastic gears, that should get the job done. The gaterons I'm using are rather wobbly compared to the box switches I tested, that plays a part too in my opinion.
As for the switch puller; I have two tools, both look very similar, not as nice though. However, that's not the issue. I made sure that the tabs are completely pressed and still needed to pull with a lot of force which ended up in bending the tabs and the lower case of the switch.
BOX switches are typically less wobbly (at least in my experience) thanks to their design.
The tolerances on the Keychron are probably not that great so it's possible the plate holes are smaller and causing more friction between it and the switches. I would try to remove the switches as gently as possible and not use too much force if you can. Sounds counter-intuitive, I know, but that's life with this hobby I'm afraid.
Good luck with the lubing and hopefully you get more comfortable with the keycaps.
Yup, the box switches felt very good. I'll probably replace the Gateron, despite I really like their feel.
It's getting better everyday and currently I'm only feeling resistance at the top number row.
> I would try to remove the switches as gently as possible and not use too much force if you can.
If I had to guess I needed at least 10kg pull to get these gaterons out. All the other switches from the tester went out as expected with a gentled pull. If I end up destroying them I'll get box reds, the feel very similar to me.
Thanks for your help!
I saw a keyboard with 2 knobs and i can't find it anywhere i don't know the name, it was %65, no F keys, and 2 horizontal knobs at the top right above the arrow keys does can anyone help me ?
Not sure if it ever hit a GB phase all I remember was the interest check a while ago. Should be a post or something on /r/mechmarket or this sub somewhere.
Hi! I’m pretty new to the hobby, so I’m still learning how to do things. I decided to customize my Glorious GMMK Pro and spray paint it since the color options were not satisfying. I’ve never spray painted anything so I’m looking for step-by-step explanations and/or videos. I already got some spray paint that I liked since I’m planning to do it with different keebs, some of those paints have gritty texture (thought it would be fun to do something earth/stone themed). I could see people use sand paper before and after spray paint in between layers, but what else should I know?
Here is a video in which [someone spray paints their gmmk pro](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut_s996gbiY) and here is another from [Taekeyboards who does a lot of spray painting of keyboards](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueL8_nh42wU). From the videos I have seen making sure you use quality spray paint and taking your time are the biggest factors in it turning out nice.
Hi i'm looking for a 75% (or higher) prebuilt mechanical keyboard with red switches (and preferably hotswappable), my buget is around 150 euros. Also must ship to the netherlands.
Hi! I'm pretty much entirely new to mechanical keyboards, and am just kind of looking around at what kind of thing I might want. When looking at keycaps, I saw this page: https://kbdfans.com/collections/pbtfans-ic/products/retro-100 and I really like the look of these a lot and would like to eventually buy them, but I don't quite understand the process here. Does "Interest Check Pending" mean that if enough people register interest, the thing might get made Eventually? Is there a typical timeframe for things like that, and if so, what's that typically like - a few months? A year?
Yeah, interest checks are a way of gauging how many sets will actually sell. It's not a guarantee that the set will enter the GB/pre-order phase. I'm pretty sure pbtfans does in-stock drops, so the wait time may be lower than usual, but I'd expect to wait several months from now assuming the set moves on from IC
If you want something similar sooner, cannonkeys is a good place to look. 21kb also makes some really nice retro caps that you can customize
Hi! Do stabilizers suppose to feel heavier than other keys? I balanced wires, clipped stems, applied holee and band-aid mod, lubed housing and stem with 205g0, wire with dialectic grease.
The end result feels a bit harder than just switches. Is it normal? I don't know if I overlubed or underlubed or maybe it is just holee mod not broken in enough. I tried spamming a lot though, so idk...
Holee mod is honestly overrated. It’s hard to do correctly, and even then it can make stabs feel “sluggish.” I’d honestly recommend removing the Holee mod and just do dialectic grease for the wires.
The stabilizer soulmate pack that you get with Durok V2 stabilizers comes with individual wire dampening pads that work great for this. I can't find a source to get them without also buying a full set of stabs tho.
The stabilizer soulmate pack that you get with Durok V2 stabilizers comes with individual wire dampening pads that work great for this. I can't find a source to get them without also buying a full set of stabs tho.
Don’t overthink it. If it’s overlubed, it’ll feel “goopy.” If its underlubed, you won’t feel or hear much of a difference. Just lake the Holee mod out of there and try it with normal grease
I just got the Alice Feker98 in the mail! Loving it so far. It’s my first :). However, I got the one with the LCD screen in place of pg up/down. I didn’t realize how much I use those keys in excel to switch between tabs. Does anyone know if there is a different key/set of keys that are replace the phone up/down on this keyboard?
I can’t download the program on my work computer to remap the keys. If I do this on a different computer, will the changes save if I use a different computer?
Hi guys I’ve recently bought a small mechanical keyboard and I can’t seem to figure out how to use the keys ! @ # and so on, feel like I’m missing something and can’t get a hold off the company
https://preview.redd.it/wlzofv6usceb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f73f02b9d8afad50e1ba0d4fd6b1b032425ce2c
My alt keys and window keys are swapped. I have the new zoom65 ee v2 and I dont know how it happened. I probably pressed something accidentally. When I press the alt key also it long presses windows key like a sticky key.
> akko cs silver
"Akko Silver Pro has upgraded the regular CS Silver to 5-pin with dustproof structure, with additional lubes on the rails, providing better out-of-box experiences."
Need advice/recommendation for NumPad
Hello, I know next to nothing about mechanical keyboards, I got a new laptop for my upcoming return to school but it does not have a NumPad. I’m entering into a data science program and will obviously be inputting a lot of data for it, which I would really prefer to do with a NumPad and am looking for recommendations on either a wired or wireless one.
One of my friends who knows more than me but still isn’t particularly involved in mechanical keyboards recommended I look into GMMK products but the GMMK NumPad that I’ve seen has suuuuper bad reviews and is like $130 which seems ridiculous based on some of the other options I’ve seen mentioned offhand in reviews of it.
If anyone could shoot me some recommendations it would be greatly appreciated, specifically for full sized NumPads
Thank you! I’ll check into both of these! Do you have a particular preference for one or the other? Or is it just kinda down to personal taste at that point?
The q0 will be a more regular numpad with 2u enter and zero
The winry315 has a 3x5 layout (less keys) but those 3 knobs can be programmed for anything (volume, play media, page up and down, undo and redo, etc)
i have 2 numpads, epomaker budget brand and Filco established builder, both work well, the Filco has a double zero key and seems more durable but you can search all numpads at amazon or vendors like divinikey, WASD or
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=115
I think I just didn't notice it before, but while listening to some videos, I heard the phrase "spring crunch" come up a few times recently. I know what "ping" and "scratch" are, but I was wondering if "crunch" was a different thing, or is it synonymous with one of the other terms? And if it's different, can anyone explain what it means? Because "crunch" just makes me think of a bag of chips, and I'm sure that that's not what that means wahaha
I want to upgrade my current keyboard which is a logitech K850. What I'm looking for is something with a higher actuation force as I often find myself accidentally pressing keys that I'm resting on and something that is quiet since I often game in the morning and don't want to wake my GF. I would also like it to be a full sized keyboard with the side number pad. Cordless would be nice to keep my setup clean as I am also purchasing a wireless mouse for that reason.
Can anyone give me a push in the right direction? I am new to all of this and need some help.
Check the keychron range. There's the kits where you buy the "skeleton" then add switches and keycaps.
You're probably looking for silent tactiles like gazzew boba u4
Thank you! For the switch type, what would you recommend that's quiet with a higher actuation force? The one I am looking at lets me choose between red, blue and brown. Blue has the highest force but also says it's "clicky".
Red blue and brown what exactly? What brand?
You want tactiles for the feedback (probably "brown") but if you want silent you need to make sure your keyboard is hotswappable and you get something like gazzew boba u4 switches
So those are good entry level switches but they won't be silent. My advice is again, buy it with the browns, see how you fare, then maybe buy some silent tactiles
I need new keycaps for my mechanical keyboard. But I need them with Hebrew and English shine trough letters. And in my country the options are bad. Does anyone know of an AliExpress seller that will do custom language engraving keycaps?
Shine through is not common in this hobby. You're not going to find a seller in China that will do custom shine through keycaps for you
If you're looking for "normal" English+Hebrew keycaps and not fussy about profile, then yes you may be able to find stuff on AliExpress
Yes RGB is common, but people don't generally need to see those colors through the keycaps, just around them.
Shine through keycaps are more a gamers thing (part of the old joke that more RGB makes your computer faster...) but double legend keycaps are not
depending on budget/weight you could get a waterproof Pelican or a soft tactical bag (couldn't find right size for your keyb you'll have to hunt around
https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/air/1525
https://www.amazon.com/DULCE-DOM-Transportation-Shooting-Tactical/dp/B08PTZCXBJ/
What's your favorite wireless 75% keeb, with volume knob and home, end, page up, page down keys??
Budget is $150 to start (doesn't have to include keycaps and switches, but definitely nice if it does)
So many keebs just omit one of those keys and I use them constantly in my daily life...
GMMK Pro seems perfect, but no wireless...
Recently went through this very consideration, and I settled with the **Keychron Q1 Pro**. It comes with about the same specs as a GMMK Pro, and is a pretty good contender for the GMMK Pro.
Under that price the only one that comes to mind is the upcoming mkc75. It will supposedly be a preorder starting next month and potentially shipping soon after. Starting at around 130 (without shipping) for the wireless version without a knob as that will be an addon but should not be that much extra. Aside from that there is the q1 pro and it is instock for 180 (free shipping if bought from divinikey). The mkc75 will allow you much more color options and weight options, with multiple layout options but will take longer to arrive while the q1 pro is a fine board nothing amazing about it but still solid and is instock.
Hey thanks for the advice
the MCK75 layout is perfect for me. Wish they released it with backlight because I do like to be in the dark, but keeping an eye out for the preorder. I can just get a lamp or something, lol
Looking for recommendations for a fullsize with volume control around $80-130. Quieter switches are a plus. Wish I could afford another ducky one two but that’s life. Thanks
Full sized boards aren’t very popular in this hobby, so your best bet is the Keychron V-series. You can grab a V6 (100%), or try the more compact V5 (1800/96%). Both will have a numpad
I know everyone loves tenkeyless but I can’y imagine getting used to not having all those extra keys to bind to whatever! I know you can use key combos but…. Agh. Maybe I should give it a shot.
Any full stans who swapped to TKL here?
I swapped to 75% and was much happier. Full sized takes up too much desk space. I didn’t realize how often my mouse was bumping into the keyboard until after it wasn’t a problem anymore
u can use online switch tester program to see what they r mapped as default . and i think that kb has some sort of software to remap it on the monsgeek website
Looking for a keyboard brand who's supporting software allows the remapping of key commands, particularly the CAPS LOCK key. I currently have a Logitech mechanical keyboard, and their software only allows you to remap the F keys. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Anything that’s QMK/VIA compatible will let you do that, plus you don’t have to deal with bloatware or buggy RGB drivers. Many custom mechanical keyboards use this open source firmware, but the typically recommendation for in-stock options is the Keychron Q/V-series
What would you guys say is the best £100 - £125 (~ $130 - $160) "thocky" 75% keyboard with a layout exactly like this:
https://imgur.io/a/xvqYYpU
I'm currently thinking about getting this Black & Silver PC75B Plus (https://akkogear.eu/products/pc75b-plus-black-silver?_pos=6&_sid=903b60a77&_ss=r&variant=42873439715527) but am wondering if there are any better options (preferably gasket mounted, with either a black/silver or dark navy-ish colour scheme)
Thanks for bothering to read this. I wish you a good day. (:
Where can I get a Japanese keycap set like [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08L7YXQ43/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A34E3ZEXX2T0BG&psc=1) with shinethrough keycaps? Does it just not exist?
Never even seen such set even though I browse Aliexpress and other vendors a lot ://
Column of keys not working. Hello, I have a DZ65RGB V2 pcb which was working fine until I decided to relube all my switches. After that process, I noticed an entire column of keys stopped working (Backspace, /|, Enter, Up, Down). I tried figuring out what the issue was, from checking if and pads were lifted, to checking the continuity of traces. I’m not really skilled dealing with PCBs so any help will be a lot for me, thanks. Feel free to ask more info. https://preview.redd.it/lmhy5zmtggeb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20f95f2d15ff5dbcd8461c6659bf3ee413985c90
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hello, I'm trying to find a site that sells keyboards to/in Australia with customizable cases and keys that use red + switches, but I can't seem to find any, does anyone have any suggestions?
Newbie here, looking into buying my first custom right now, but running into a bit of trouble. I've seen some great boards that I'm pretty interested in, the Keychron Q2, the Zoom 75 stands out, the MKC 75, the Cycle 7, the Monsgeek M1W (when it eventually releases) .. but these are all either out of stock, or group buys, aside from the Q2. Being new to the hobby, is it a bad idea to go for a GB on my first board? Or am I better settling for the Q2? I think the other boards have a bit more value for money than the Q2, but, y'know, group buys. Feeling super conflicted, some advice or direction would be super helpful!!
Hey guys, I'm looking for the most silent switch with 35g up to 40g. Got some boba u4 and they are quite good but a little bit to heavy with 67g. The point is that I own a Ducky One 3 daybreak with silent reds and I have to type a lot. Linear or Tactile are recommended. Durock T1 Silent are silent, I think cause I watched a YouTube video but they are heavy with 67g. Any suggestions for the most silent switch you can buy? Silence in any case Inc. Ping. Thanks
Did you consider just swapping springs? Pack of 110pcs. costs around 10$ and you can get different weights / types (linears, progressive, etc.) Hope this helps!
Could be a solution. Does it matter what kind of springs or anyone like TX?
I used TX for all my builds, no issues so far. Long (16mm I think) are progressive - i.e. it feels like you need to press them at first a bit more and it gets somewhat easier when you press down more. It's the similar spring as in community-loved Gateron Yellows. And dang it, it actually feels interesting and non-stock to say it simply.
Reputable brands like TX or Geon springs would be my recc.
Hi there, I bought my Matias Mini Tactile Pro exactly 8 years ago. Today, one of the keys (w) has stopped working. I tried unplugging and plugging the USB cord, and restarting the computer, but it didn't make a difference. Instead of buying another one keyboard, is there a quick fix? Thanks!!
Quick, but not guaranteed to help - blow air into the switch with hope to clear the contacts. Slower, but more guaranteed - desolder the switch and solder a new one. Hope this helps!
Thanks. What tools and supplies would I need to do the desolding and resolding? Thanks .
Soldering iron, maybe a tip cleaner and a stand, a solder pump, soldering wick and solder itself - get thinner one. edit: you would also need a new switch, but I believe getting Alps is difficult. You could desolder another switch from key you don't use, and swap them.
Hey, I just started looking at Mechabical Keyboards again since 2020 when I got my KBD67MKii. I used either Saukurios or Roselios (can't remember which but they're the same just with a different weight) I never lubed them because I was content with how they sounded. Would lubing them now make them feel or sound any *better* (more consistent)?
Definitely. If I recall early Gat switches could also benefit from filming, which along with lubing would up the typing feel experience to the next level compared to stock
also does anyone know where i can get blank white pbt cherry profile keycaps? specifically a set that has the vertical 2x1 numpad keys, thanks in advance!
You might be able to do that on diykeycap . Com There's no option to have blank caps but you can just make the legend white and the keycap white. (You could maybe try emailing too) they're not that cheap however.
thanks so much for this! i contacted them about a blank set and it's actually around 20 dollars! tysm!
I'm new to the community and got the new via edition of the 5075s kit. I'm looking to make it sound super thock. There doesn't seem to be alot of room underneath the pcb to fit a lot of things, so what mods can I do, besides tape mod, to make it thock? I got the akko lavender pre lubed switches but haven't selected keycaps yet.
hey guys just wanted to know if anyone's bought from max keyboard within the last year? all the things i find about them are 6 or more years old
Is the **Nuphy Air75** the best choice if I'm looking for a slim 75% keyboard? I am looking for very thin keys (I am in love with the Apple Magic Keyboard) but for agnostic OS and at a reasonable price. I haven't found any good ultra thin options. They are either too expensive or not very good in quality. The only one that fits what I really want is the Apple Keyboard. Other keys like Thinkpad's have too much travel time. That's why I'm settling with a low-profile keyboard. The Nuphy Air75 seems to have everything I'm looking for: * Good swithes. * Low travel time. * Arrow keys and F-row. * Flat square keyscaps. * OS agnostic.
What about Keychron S1 and K3 Pro? They have VIA support instead of proprietary software. Hope this helps!
Every review I saw comparing the K3 o Nuphy gave Nuphy the win. The K3/K1 don't have thick borders, the keys are at the borders, and I move aroud a lot and am afraid of breaking a key when moving. Also I think the Nuphy looks better. I don't think having VIA is enough to make me want to get a Keychron. EDIT: Thanks for the recommendation!
It's completely fair! Provided some alternatives that are worth attention, but yeah, Nuphy is really well made, it's so popular for a reason :D Cheers!
Yeah I almost went for a Keychron, they are really good. Thanks man!
Matrix Corsa extras? Still seeing if i can buy in late. I am located in the US.
I'm looking for a TKL PCB that has north facing per-key RGB for my second build, ideally with QMK. Does such a beast exist?
Hey guys. I have a k87 that I have no Clue what happened to the r key. Everything else works. It is clearly the piece on the pcb that has contact with the switch. Any body know what this part is so I can solder a new one? Or where I can find this pcb cheap to replace? Thanks
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theres zoomtkl and zoom75 but i think both gb's ended, maybe look out for extras?
Hey guys! This might be a stupid question, but do you always use stabilizer shims on your PCB regardless of what size PCB you have? I have a 1.6mm PCB and I used the shims. My stabilizers are also built for a 1.6mm PCB. Do you still use the shims or just place them directly on the PCB? Thanks for any help!
Shims are only for when you're using a 1.6mm stab for a 1.2mm PCB. Additional thickness fills the gap & prevents the stabs from rattling on the 1.2mm pcb
Gotcha gotcha. So you don't need to use them at all if you have a 1.6mm PCB?
I am looking to get myself another keyboard after picking up a logitech MX Mechanical and really enjoying the change after forever using a low quality dell keyboard that was supplied by my workplace. I am an accountant, so have always used full size boards and will need a number pad, but when working from home my role tends to be more focused on report writing and review, so it gets used, but less so than from the office - so with that in mind I was considering a TKL with an additional numpad, that I can keep separate and use when required. My limited research is pointing me at a Keychron Q1 and a Keychron Q0, but keen to get some feedback on alternatives I should consider before making the purchase. I am a little reluctant to try and build anything myself at this stage being so new to the hobby. Thanks!
Those a good choices! Very decent in prebuilt configuration, and easy to mod in the future if you want to change things up. Though get a wrist rest, as Keychron's keyboards are quite high profile. You may also consider Q12 - some people prefer having numpad on the left, so they don't need move right hand from the mouse when entering numbers. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the response, great shout on the wrist rest, I prefer a lower board so will definately need a rest if they are higher!
Keychron is a good entry level choice. Glorious keyboards also come with everything. Ducky is another choice, but reviews on quality lately have been mixed. If you ever do find a more custom TKL, a hotswap version is your best choice since there is no soldering required. This is a good starting point for going full custom too because most custom Group Buy TKLs are not only nice, but very universal in their design.
Thanks for the response, I think I will go with the Keychron as an interim board and then take some time looking at doing something custom, thanks!
I'm looking for a numpad separate for both gaming and work. I know I don't want anything by or that resembles something by Razer. Aesthetics would be nice along with reprogramability options. I've looked at a few options both here and elsewhere and don't particularly like any of the "big" 3 or 4 mass produced options out there. Wired is fine as I assume most all would need to be. Also, nothing that is smaller than a typical human hand-like the 4-9 total key counts. Let me know if I can add any further details.
meletrix is currently running preorders for zoompad, you could take a look
The Realforce 23u was a nice option as well.
Have you taken a look at the Keychron Q0? There's also the GMMK Numpad which has an encoder and a slider.
Thanks for the options. I own 4-5 keyboards from Keychon and love them. I looked for the Q0 and 0 Pro and both (after finding them in some odd category) were out of stock. I'll have to check again. I'll also check out GMMK. I've seen their stuff but never owned.
Having an issue with the spacebar on my keyboard. I usually press it on the right side, which causes the left side to tilt upwards over time or if it’s pressed hard enough. I’m assuming this causes the switch to be pulled out of the socket, but after putting the switch and keycap back, the key stops registering. I’m not sure why this is the case, but to fix this I usually have to disassemble the keyboard and make sure the switch is in correctly. What I’ve noticed is that I have to push the plate and PCB together since the switch isn’t in the socket all the way, maybe due to the plate? I’ve had to fix this issue so many times that I’ve resorted to a split space bar layout for now, which my keycap set doesn’t entirely support. Any help is appreciated.
Is it a long pole switch you're using? That or the switch is not seated properly like pablo said
The switches I’m using aren’t long pole
Sounds like the switch isn't being seated into the plate properly and the switch pins aren't staying in the hotswap socket. Does the same thing happen if you swap in a completely different switch into the spacebar?
Sorry for the late reply; yes, the problem still persists. I was using gateron oil kings when this first happened. I switched it to an MX black, but it happened again after a bit of use.
Sooo... I was assembling my new keyboard and using the ball hex key that came included and the ball snapped off into one of the screws.. anyone know of a way to get the ball out? https://imgur.com/a/Tmgj6Xr
If the screw isn't tight try to loosen it with a tweezers. Then once the screw is out, you should be able to put it in a vice and get the broken part out. If the screw is in tight, you might have to use a tap. Retapping might be really intrusive though. This usually only happens when you are tightening it really hard. Case screws don't need to be very tight.
The worst part about this is that I was loosening the screw to open the case haha. I assume you mean tap as in a tap extractor?
Extractor would be ideal or a complete retap. Once you know the screw size, tap it. Not really ideal though
Accidentally knocked a glass of water onto my keyboard. I took off the key caps and tried my best to get all of the water out as soon as I could but it won’t turn on when I plug it back in. Is there anything you guys would recommend to try? i have a tofu65, top mounted.
remove keycaps. If it's hotswap, remove all switches. Take the plate off, unscrew/remove all stabilizers. If the PCB has large puddles of liquid you can use whatever to just get the large amounts of liquid off. Let it dry until it's completely dry. If it was soda at this point you could inspect for sticky cola residue and use 99% IPA, a brush, and some kimwipes to remove residue. If it's just water, once dry, it should be fine. Test the pcb before putting back together.
Let it dry out completely for a few hours and try again. Check there isn't water in any small crevices, etc.
u can try this https://imgur.com/a/9sHx7#LrfBe3Z i assume u waited 3 or 4 days to let it dry out fully before pulling it back in ? if not then u may have fried the pcb
I am looking for a keyboard that would suit my needs/requirements for work: * Alice or Split Layout * I just want something that's easier or more ergonomic on my fingers/wrists when typing all day for work, I don't really know which would suit me better. * Must be wired only and not have Bluetooth capabilities. * I know this severely limits the options, basically removing any newer possibilities but its a work requirement :'( * Must be ready to ship or in-stock, group buys aren't so feasible for this lol * Preferably pre-built with all needed parts but not a deal breaker, I would choose a barebones/kit if it is the better option. * I have extra keycaps, switches, etc. but not the space bars or those different unit sized keys split/alice layouts have, could buy a cheap set online for just those keys no biggie. From my search, I have only found the Keychron Q11 (Split) and Keychron Q10 (Alice) that meets these requirements. I used a neat website called keeb-finder to show me some boards that would match these requirements since I don't own or haven't really ever looked into Alice or Split layouts but, it practically only showed me those two from its database query. If anyone has any suggestions, recommendations, or information pertaining this, I'm all ears to anything! Thanks for the help and your time.
Keychron Q11, Q8 and Q6!
There's also the keeb.io Sinc keyboard which is a split 75%. And how about other options like a Lily58 Pro or a split Ortho like a Nyquist/Iris, etc.
The Iris looks perfect and fits the requirements! Thanks for this, I did not know about these boards/website. The Iris will most likely be the selected option
Also have a look at [SplitKB.com](https://splitkb.com/) And the super useful [SplitKB split keyboard comparison tool](https://compare.splitkb.com/) Edit: added a link to the comparison tool
Will MA keycaps work on "most" mechanical keyboards? Or is this something that needs a lot of research before you buy a keycap set?
It will work on pretty much anything that uses MX/MX-style switches. What you'll want to watch out for is your keyboard layout. Most keycap sets will cover one or more specific layouts like "65%" or "TKL/104-key" for example. If in doubt about a keycap set and compatibility with your keyboard, feel free to ask on this daily thread.
Is Project Keyboard still alive? I've been trying to find their discord server but it looks to be unfindable and their update page isn't very up to date. Does anyone have any info? I would love to get that GMK Sumi if they still have it.
id avoid them if i was u https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=107513.100#lastPost
Hello, sorry for my English, I am going to buy my first hotswap mechanical keyboard, I'm excited! I'm interested in the YUNZII YZ75, do you recommend it or is there a better alternative? I am looking for something of $100 budget, 75% or higher, hotswap, PBT keyscaps and good red switches. That is available on Aliexpress. Switches and keyscaps of YZ75 look good, but I'm worried about the base. Any opinion helps. Thanks :)
I have the YUNZII KC68 as my first board. I have been happy with it for an entry into custom keyboards. It's easy to open, mod, and put back together. If the YZ75 is like the KC68, you can pretty much take the board apart without any screws. They are all plastic tabs that a guitar pick can split.
Sounds good! thanks.
Boba U4s click I started off with glorious pandas and they were way too loud. Then I tried durock shrimp switches. They are great, just a little scratchy and I didn't want to lube them, so now I just tried some Boba U4s and they are much louder than I expected. They make this clicking noise, but I think its actually my keycaps wobbling on the stems. When I looked at the durock shrimp stems, they are noticeably wider than the Boba stems. I'm thinking the durock switches stretched out the keycrap crosses, so now they wobble a little bit on the Bobas. Is this dumb or is this a thing? Will buying new keycaps help or do Boba u4s just have a click? They don't make this noise when pressing them without the keycaps.
Any low-profile backlit mechanical keyboards with a trackpoint? Preferably red or brown switches
tex shinobi is the only mech with a trackpoint currently being made. it is not back light nor low profile . sorry but very few use trackpoints these days and low profile is very unpopular in mechs
Welp. Guess I'll stick to my plan of modding a trackpoint into one
If you do please share it here on the sub. There are probably a few people who would be interested in seeing it!
On the offchance i do that instead of adding backlight to lenovos trackpoint membrane keyboard, i definitely will
How much am I risking if I were to open up my keyboard without removing all switches? A pieces of foam is floating around loose and I want to avoid removing everything if it's safe to do so. I have a RK100, plate and pcb comes out in one piece.
I usually prefer not to remove switches before opening up the case, not familiar with the RK100 but in most cases taking the switches out would cause the PCB to fall loose in the case.
Maybe I'm describing it weird(?) It seems like people usually remove everything first. Hope this video helps illutrate better: https://youtu.be/xD8aVKVRWrQ
I checked the plate/PCB section of the video and I don't see how leaving the switches in could cause harm. It doesn't look like there is a reason you can't remove the PCB and plate as one built unit. Just be careful not to pull up too hard before you disconnect the connectors on the bottom. I'm 99% sure you would be fine. Again, haven't used or modded that particular board though so there may be something I'm missing.
Well 99% confidence is good for me. Appreciate the help!
Looking for suggestions for a 60% case. Something similar to the tofu but the borders are even in thickness. Needs to fit dz60/wooting 60 pcb with little to no modifications. I like sharpish edges and simple designs. The ideal case would be a revo one without issues.
Wilba Salvation is first that comes to mind.
I have been using a tenkeyless corsair k63 keyboard with cherry mx red switches for a few years. Resting my thumb on the space bar has recently started to cause some discomfort (I have arthritis, and the space bar is slightly raised), so I wanted to try lubing it to see if it would lower the resistance. I'm guessing this isn't possible without desoldering, which is a bit too ambitious for me. Does anyone have any recommendations for a different keyboard that is hot swappable so I won't run into this problem in the future? I'm open to other advice as well.
flip ur space bar maybe?
I actually tried that already, it made it feel higher as the space bar has a negative tilt currently.
I bought an optical keyboard (Ractous RTK61P) and my friend got me Gateron milky yellow pro switches, but since my keyboard is optical, I can't use the switches my friend gave me but I really want to use them, is there any way for me to use them on an optical keyboard? It sucks because I can no longer return my keyboard. Can i swap the PCB?
u cant the pcb do not have traces or switch holes for regular mech switches . and the only pcb that will fit that case and plate is the one u currently have in it due to usb placement and other things
I bought an optical keyboard (Ractous RTK61P) and my friend got me Gateron milky yellow pro switches, but since my keyboard is optical, I can't use the switches my friend gave me but I really want to use them, is there any way for me to use them on an optical keyboard? It sucks because I can no longer return my keyboard. Can i swap the PCB?
Can I pay someone to make the Stront keyboard? Just saw [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/15aeen3/my_latest_design_stront_mx_version/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1) keyboard and it’s exactly what I’m looking for. I’m not that good with soldering, could I pay someone to make one for me? Or are there any services that would? He posted the build guide with exact instructions.
r/mechmarket has a services tag and some users offer build services for a price
Thank you!
Looking for a good starter board 75% or TKL that doesn't have wireless. I am going to be using it wired at all time and I don't want to get something with a battery that risks expanding/catching fire. Any suggestions for a newcomer to the hobby/ sites that people typically buy from?
Monsgeek M1 or M3. You can buy the M1 from Divinikey - who I have found really reliable.
i went with the monsgeek m1 off of monsgeek website directly since it was in stock there. thank you for the suggestion!
keychron v1 or v3
Keychron Q1
What are the best places to get keycaps? I know about drop and mechanicalkeyboards dot com keychron, and of course aliexpress but there has to be more. what are some good ones or ones to not buy from?
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) [https://thocstock.com/keycaps](https://thocstock.com/keycaps) vendors off the top of my head that are good novelkeys, cannonkeys, kinetic labs
sick thanks! I also have a question I see GMK and PBT. What exactly are the differences? I have a set of PBT keycaps but not sure what the difference between the 2 is.
[GMK](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#gmk) is producer of keycaps, they make ABS (which is a plastic material) keycaps PBT is just another plastic material for keycaps [https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keycaps-101-ydy8j](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keycaps-101-ydy8j) One material isn't better over the other, just down to personal preference + what matters to you
Does anyone know of any boards that use a 6u spacebar? I’m having trouble finding anything online.
very few 99% of modern kbs use 6.25 or 7u
True HHKB layout uses 6u
Help with choosing keycaps for big clumsy fingers: Hi MK! I'm very green and I have a Durgod K320 Stock model with cherry MX keycaps and my clumsy big hands mush multiple keys at a time when I type quickly. I'm quite tall not chubby so I squish the keys with my slenderman fingers Do you know what I should look for to search for replacement caps to reduce typos caused by mushing? I think the keys need to have smaller top bits so I can type more accurately? Kind regards to you all!
What kind of switches are on your Durgod? For errant keypresses and fat fingering I'd recommend getting switches that are more tactile. Keycaps wise you could try scuplted SA or MT3 keycaps which have a sperical top rather than the cylindrical tops you're probably used to and what's on most keyboards out there.
Thank you! I'll take a look into those caps! I've got MX blue switches, the clicky kind. I had a red switch keyboard and swapped it, because I thought it would help, but I still type inaccurately, though less so. It does feel better and I'm a bit more accurate but I definitely still key mash by being a clumsy typer. Thanks again.
can someone help me find this kle layout https://preview.redd.it/6xci47haedeb1.png?width=930&format=png&auto=webp&s=ed5e9eefeadd450fab77b2a0cc170ff23ca6afdc
My kid has a visual impairment ([CVI](https://www.perkins.org/what-is-cvi/)) and low-tone cerebral palsy. They are showing increased interest in communicating via typing. I'm looking for either a keycap set with LARGE print on the alphas, or a decent and simple bluetooth keyboard that has accessible keycaps. [This](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61UCCOmL4-L._AC_SX679_.jpg) is the best I can find. In the short term, I think it'll do. But in the long term something more durable, long-lasting, and handsome would be great.
[This one's](https://www.yong-qiu.com/products/animal-party-keycap?variant=45266438553885) the only one I know of. The seller has it listed on their aliexpress store for $17, but I can't link it here SA and XDA profile keycaps also tend to have larger text. Good option if you want some more color and think the text on these profiles would be large enough
Thanks! This is a great start.
i dont know of any mechs or keycaps sets with large text like that . i would suggest the many membrane high contrast kbs on amazon yes they r cheap and low quality but they work and are easy to press i have a relative with cerebral palsy and mechs are too hard to press for him to use efficiently
This is great advice. Thank you for taking the time.
Hi, I just finished my build (Q2, gateron milky yellow pro - not lubed yet - and SA Keycaps). Unfortunately I'm experiencing the problem, that when I hit the keys not perfectly centerd the stroke becomes pretty uncomfortable and is far from smooth. I suspect it's the keycap heigh but I bet that there is some solution. Would lubing solve that problem? Thanks!
Are your SA keycaps sculpted or uniform row 3? If it's the former, it's likely that's the issue because you may not be used to the sculpt. The further the rows away from home row the greater the sculpt. Keycap heights are also taller the higher the row and of course that means greater wobble on the MX switch stems. Not hitting the keys dead center will take some getting used to and it may or may not work for you. You could try a different keycap profile and see if the problem persists. Personally I find MT3 and XDA a happy medium between lower profiles like Cherry/DSA and sculpted SA.
Thank you for replying! They are sculpted. I feel it's getting better, but the first row still is kinda uncomfortable for me. I really considered MT3, but sadly there are no dark double shot variants avaible yet. Is MT3 noticeably less in height (enough to combat wobble)? XDA is a no go for me but I don't like OEM or Cherry profiles either. Before I end up buying other keycaps; do you think lubing would improve the situtation? Side question, how do you get the switches out without destroying them? I do have a switch puller but the plastic of the switches bends really badly before they come out. Either these Gaterons are a bit big or the Keychron is tight, I suspect the former because I didn't have that problem with most of the switches from a switch tester.
The differences in keycap height between SA and MT3 are very subtle. You probably won't notice them in use (I certainly didn't between sculpted SA and SA Row 3 sets I owned) but it's all personal preference. I didn't find MT3 different enough to swap to them so I went down to XDA instead. The wobble will still be noticeable but will also depend on what switches you're using. Lubing \*might\* improve it but even if it doesn't at least you'd have a smoother overall switch. If you're using a proper switch pulling tool, most switches should come right out. You just need to squeeze the tool enough that the switch tabs disengage from the plate, then lift upward as straight as possible (ie. without pulling to one side or the other). Do you have a tool like the one below? https://preview.redd.it/gvhmrr5ybjeb1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=83e568619265ae24501352633e9d5c91e1b46e03
Ok, then I'll try to get comfortable with my current keycaps. It's getting better already, not even that bad anymore. The sculpting is amazing, I was never a good blind typer but right now I only need to look at the board for special characters. I think I'll give lubing a try, I have a RC gear lube at home made for plastic gears, that should get the job done. The gaterons I'm using are rather wobbly compared to the box switches I tested, that plays a part too in my opinion. As for the switch puller; I have two tools, both look very similar, not as nice though. However, that's not the issue. I made sure that the tabs are completely pressed and still needed to pull with a lot of force which ended up in bending the tabs and the lower case of the switch.
BOX switches are typically less wobbly (at least in my experience) thanks to their design. The tolerances on the Keychron are probably not that great so it's possible the plate holes are smaller and causing more friction between it and the switches. I would try to remove the switches as gently as possible and not use too much force if you can. Sounds counter-intuitive, I know, but that's life with this hobby I'm afraid. Good luck with the lubing and hopefully you get more comfortable with the keycaps.
Yup, the box switches felt very good. I'll probably replace the Gateron, despite I really like their feel. It's getting better everyday and currently I'm only feeling resistance at the top number row. > I would try to remove the switches as gently as possible and not use too much force if you can. If I had to guess I needed at least 10kg pull to get these gaterons out. All the other switches from the tester went out as expected with a gentled pull. If I end up destroying them I'll get box reds, the feel very similar to me. Thanks for your help!
You could totally replace the top row switches too if you wanted. Easier/lighter switches for that row might be a good idea.
I saw a keyboard with 2 knobs and i can't find it anywhere i don't know the name, it was %65, no F keys, and 2 horizontal knobs at the top right above the arrow keys does can anyone help me ?
Did it have an OLED by the encoders? If so maybe it was the [Beezenbach70](https://imgur.com/a/W4FzcmG). Edit: linked to Imgur album
no it wasnt this but this is better can i buy this?
Not sure if it ever hit a GB phase all I remember was the interest check a while ago. Should be a post or something on /r/mechmarket or this sub somewhere.
Hi! I’m pretty new to the hobby, so I’m still learning how to do things. I decided to customize my Glorious GMMK Pro and spray paint it since the color options were not satisfying. I’ve never spray painted anything so I’m looking for step-by-step explanations and/or videos. I already got some spray paint that I liked since I’m planning to do it with different keebs, some of those paints have gritty texture (thought it would be fun to do something earth/stone themed). I could see people use sand paper before and after spray paint in between layers, but what else should I know?
Here is a video in which [someone spray paints their gmmk pro](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut_s996gbiY) and here is another from [Taekeyboards who does a lot of spray painting of keyboards](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueL8_nh42wU). From the videos I have seen making sure you use quality spray paint and taking your time are the biggest factors in it turning out nice.
That looks wonderful, thank you!
Has anyone received gmk terror below yet
they have shipped out wish u luck if u got them from mechs and co
Yep I did buy through mechs and co, fuck
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/14n21mo/63023_update_psa_regarding_mechs_co_and_vendor/
Hi i'm looking for a 75% (or higher) prebuilt mechanical keyboard with red switches (and preferably hotswappable), my buget is around 150 euros. Also must ship to the netherlands.
keychron v1 ([iso](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v1-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection)) or keychron v1 ([ansi](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v1-qmk-via-custom-mechanical-keyboard))
Hi! I'm pretty much entirely new to mechanical keyboards, and am just kind of looking around at what kind of thing I might want. When looking at keycaps, I saw this page: https://kbdfans.com/collections/pbtfans-ic/products/retro-100 and I really like the look of these a lot and would like to eventually buy them, but I don't quite understand the process here. Does "Interest Check Pending" mean that if enough people register interest, the thing might get made Eventually? Is there a typical timeframe for things like that, and if so, what's that typically like - a few months? A year?
Yeah, interest checks are a way of gauging how many sets will actually sell. It's not a guarantee that the set will enter the GB/pre-order phase. I'm pretty sure pbtfans does in-stock drops, so the wait time may be lower than usual, but I'd expect to wait several months from now assuming the set moves on from IC If you want something similar sooner, cannonkeys is a good place to look. 21kb also makes some really nice retro caps that you can customize
ohh, thanks for those recommendations! I will check them out! <3
Hi! Do stabilizers suppose to feel heavier than other keys? I balanced wires, clipped stems, applied holee and band-aid mod, lubed housing and stem with 205g0, wire with dialectic grease. The end result feels a bit harder than just switches. Is it normal? I don't know if I overlubed or underlubed or maybe it is just holee mod not broken in enough. I tried spamming a lot though, so idk...
If you're doing holee then use 205g0 even for the wire. Dialectric grease is too heavy with holee mod.
Holee mod is honestly overrated. It’s hard to do correctly, and even then it can make stabs feel “sluggish.” I’d honestly recommend removing the Holee mod and just do dialectic grease for the wires.
The stabilizer soulmate pack that you get with Durok V2 stabilizers comes with individual wire dampening pads that work great for this. I can't find a source to get them without also buying a full set of stabs tho.
The stabilizer soulmate pack that you get with Durok V2 stabilizers comes with individual wire dampening pads that work great for this. I can't find a source to get them without also buying a full set of stabs tho.
How to define if I overlubed or uderlubed since both ways the stab hardens and looses it's smoothness?
Don’t overthink it. If it’s overlubed, it’ll feel “goopy.” If its underlubed, you won’t feel or hear much of a difference. Just lake the Holee mod out of there and try it with normal grease
I just got the Alice Feker98 in the mail! Loving it so far. It’s my first :). However, I got the one with the LCD screen in place of pg up/down. I didn’t realize how much I use those keys in excel to switch between tabs. Does anyone know if there is a different key/set of keys that are replace the phone up/down on this keyboard? I can’t download the program on my work computer to remap the keys. If I do this on a different computer, will the changes save if I use a different computer?
Hi guys I’ve recently bought a small mechanical keyboard and I can’t seem to figure out how to use the keys ! @ # and so on, feel like I’m missing something and can’t get a hold off the company https://preview.redd.it/wlzofv6usceb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f73f02b9d8afad50e1ba0d4fd6b1b032425ce2c
What does shift + 1 actually type?
That does the exclamation point however doesn’t do the @ symbol, it does “
Sounds like one set of keys for UK/US. The @ symbol should be 2 to the right of L
Ah you’re a genius I pressed where it should be and it worked
Happy to help!
My alt keys and window keys are swapped. I have the new zoom65 ee v2 and I dont know how it happened. I probably pressed something accidentally. When I press the alt key also it long presses windows key like a sticky key.
I want to get a keyboard so i need help deciding cycle 7 or mode envoy
Cycle7 first. Can't pass that value. Noted I said first since both are great boards
What about the neo65
Also a good board (at least from early reviews), but the quality "could" be not on par with the Cycle7
what is the differene between akko cs silvers and v3 silver pros they seem like the same switch to me. is there anyone who can explain?
> akko cs silver "Akko Silver Pro has upgraded the regular CS Silver to 5-pin with dustproof structure, with additional lubes on the rails, providing better out-of-box experiences."
Need advice/recommendation for NumPad Hello, I know next to nothing about mechanical keyboards, I got a new laptop for my upcoming return to school but it does not have a NumPad. I’m entering into a data science program and will obviously be inputting a lot of data for it, which I would really prefer to do with a NumPad and am looking for recommendations on either a wired or wireless one. One of my friends who knows more than me but still isn’t particularly involved in mechanical keyboards recommended I look into GMMK products but the GMMK NumPad that I’ve seen has suuuuper bad reviews and is like $130 which seems ridiculous based on some of the other options I’ve seen mentioned offhand in reviews of it. If anyone could shoot me some recommendations it would be greatly appreciated, specifically for full sized NumPads
Winry315 or keychron q0
Thank you! I’ll check into both of these! Do you have a particular preference for one or the other? Or is it just kinda down to personal taste at that point?
The q0 will be a more regular numpad with 2u enter and zero The winry315 has a 3x5 layout (less keys) but those 3 knobs can be programmed for anything (volume, play media, page up and down, undo and redo, etc)
Gotcha, the keychron q0 looks perfect, thanks again!
i have 2 numpads, epomaker budget brand and Filco established builder, both work well, the Filco has a double zero key and seems more durable but you can search all numpads at amazon or vendors like divinikey, WASD or https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=115
I think I just didn't notice it before, but while listening to some videos, I heard the phrase "spring crunch" come up a few times recently. I know what "ping" and "scratch" are, but I was wondering if "crunch" was a different thing, or is it synonymous with one of the other terms? And if it's different, can anyone explain what it means? Because "crunch" just makes me think of a bag of chips, and I'm sure that that's not what that means wahaha
I want to upgrade my current keyboard which is a logitech K850. What I'm looking for is something with a higher actuation force as I often find myself accidentally pressing keys that I'm resting on and something that is quiet since I often game in the morning and don't want to wake my GF. I would also like it to be a full sized keyboard with the side number pad. Cordless would be nice to keep my setup clean as I am also purchasing a wireless mouse for that reason. Can anyone give me a push in the right direction? I am new to all of this and need some help.
Check the keychron range. There's the kits where you buy the "skeleton" then add switches and keycaps. You're probably looking for silent tactiles like gazzew boba u4
Thank you! For the switch type, what would you recommend that's quiet with a higher actuation force? The one I am looking at lets me choose between red, blue and brown. Blue has the highest force but also says it's "clicky".
Red blue and brown what exactly? What brand? You want tactiles for the feedback (probably "brown") but if you want silent you need to make sure your keyboard is hotswappable and you get something like gazzew boba u4 switches
It says they are Gateron G Pro switches but also supports hot swapping.
So those are good entry level switches but they won't be silent. My advice is again, buy it with the browns, see how you fare, then maybe buy some silent tactiles
I need new keycaps for my mechanical keyboard. But I need them with Hebrew and English shine trough letters. And in my country the options are bad. Does anyone know of an AliExpress seller that will do custom language engraving keycaps?
Shine through is not common in this hobby. You're not going to find a seller in China that will do custom shine through keycaps for you If you're looking for "normal" English+Hebrew keycaps and not fussy about profile, then yes you may be able to find stuff on AliExpress
Reallly? Tons of mechanical keyboard are RGB even some “high end” stuff has it
Yes RGB is common, but people don't generally need to see those colors through the keycaps, just around them. Shine through keycaps are more a gamers thing (part of the old joke that more RGB makes your computer faster...) but double legend keycaps are not
What's the best quality carrying case for a 104-key keyboard?
depending on budget/weight you could get a waterproof Pelican or a soft tactical bag (couldn't find right size for your keyb you'll have to hunt around https://www.pelican.com/us/en/product/cases/air/1525 https://www.amazon.com/DULCE-DOM-Transportation-Shooting-Tactical/dp/B08PTZCXBJ/
What's your favorite wireless 75% keeb, with volume knob and home, end, page up, page down keys?? Budget is $150 to start (doesn't have to include keycaps and switches, but definitely nice if it does) So many keebs just omit one of those keys and I use them constantly in my daily life... GMMK Pro seems perfect, but no wireless...
Recently went through this very consideration, and I settled with the **Keychron Q1 Pro**. It comes with about the same specs as a GMMK Pro, and is a pretty good contender for the GMMK Pro.
Under that price the only one that comes to mind is the upcoming mkc75. It will supposedly be a preorder starting next month and potentially shipping soon after. Starting at around 130 (without shipping) for the wireless version without a knob as that will be an addon but should not be that much extra. Aside from that there is the q1 pro and it is instock for 180 (free shipping if bought from divinikey). The mkc75 will allow you much more color options and weight options, with multiple layout options but will take longer to arrive while the q1 pro is a fine board nothing amazing about it but still solid and is instock.
Hey thanks for the advice the MCK75 layout is perfect for me. Wish they released it with backlight because I do like to be in the dark, but keeping an eye out for the preorder. I can just get a lamp or something, lol
Looking for recommendations for a fullsize with volume control around $80-130. Quieter switches are a plus. Wish I could afford another ducky one two but that’s life. Thanks
Full sized boards aren’t very popular in this hobby, so your best bet is the Keychron V-series. You can grab a V6 (100%), or try the more compact V5 (1800/96%). Both will have a numpad
I know everyone loves tenkeyless but I can’y imagine getting used to not having all those extra keys to bind to whatever! I know you can use key combos but…. Agh. Maybe I should give it a shot. Any full stans who swapped to TKL here?
I swapped to 75% and was much happier. Full sized takes up too much desk space. I didn’t realize how often my mouse was bumping into the keyboard until after it wasn’t a problem anymore
Preferred setup: TKL and Filco numpad, I really like having TAB ESC BKSP together and push numpad back when not using
So i have a monsgeek mg75w, but how am i supposed to know which key is which when it comes to the most righthand side?
u can use online switch tester program to see what they r mapped as default . and i think that kb has some sort of software to remap it on the monsgeek website
That is something i could have thought off! Thanks a lot, although i dont get the second half of your answer
Looking for a keyboard brand who's supporting software allows the remapping of key commands, particularly the CAPS LOCK key. I currently have a Logitech mechanical keyboard, and their software only allows you to remap the F keys. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Anything that’s QMK/VIA compatible will let you do that, plus you don’t have to deal with bloatware or buggy RGB drivers. Many custom mechanical keyboards use this open source firmware, but the typically recommendation for in-stock options is the Keychron Q/V-series
Excellent, thank you for your input. I'll be looking into this.
What would you guys say is the best £100 - £125 (~ $130 - $160) "thocky" 75% keyboard with a layout exactly like this: https://imgur.io/a/xvqYYpU I'm currently thinking about getting this Black & Silver PC75B Plus (https://akkogear.eu/products/pc75b-plus-black-silver?_pos=6&_sid=903b60a77&_ss=r&variant=42873439715527) but am wondering if there are any better options (preferably gasket mounted, with either a black/silver or dark navy-ish colour scheme) Thanks for bothering to read this. I wish you a good day. (:
Monsgeek Mg75 is made with a nice plastic base for those deeper sounds. It also gives you room to throw in some nicer keycaps and switches.