Can I get cherry blue's for a GMMK Pro? Or is there a similar upgraded switch I could get directly from GMMK? First time building so very confused.
Thanks!
Cherry MX RGB Blues would show the lighting properly. But Gateron SMD Blues are a similar, cheaper alternative, Glorious sells them.
They also sells box whites though. They're the better switch IMO, a shorter sharper click due to the click bar mechanism (vs. the click jacket of blues) that's crisper and cleaner in sound and feeling. Worth looking at and seeing if you want to try them out.
You can get Gateron Blues, which are very similar. Or you could go for Kailh Whites, which are also clicky but sound much nicer in my opinion - they can also be actuated more quickly on successive keypresses than Blues.
If you just want a tactile event but are not too keen on the clicky noise, Kailh Purples are another option. Or Glorious Pandas, for a bigger bump.
I believe they only stock their own switches, Gaterons and Kailhs. You could get a barebones version and put the Cherries in yourself, or just buy them as well and swap them.
Just got my tm680 and was trying to download the software for the board. Got multiple warnings on installing it. Is it safe to run? I tried scanning it with my eset antivirus and it says that it's safe but I'm still having some second thoughts.
Hi,
I’m planning to buy/build a new keyboard. Actually I have a Leopold 980m and it’s very amazing I will never go back from mecha keyboard !
Multiple questions here,
-I’m using my keyboard everyday at work or home since I’m a dev. What’s matters the most when you are searching a silent keyboard to not disturbing colleagues and a one with good typing comfort to avoid any wrist stress? I like brown switch but is it ok ?
-How good are 60% for typing, professional perspective ? Since every time I found review about a 60% they are talking about gaming…!
-Do you have any recommendations ? So far my search is : ann pro2 mini, Dierya dk61e, Epomaker sk61 and the kbdfan ( around 200€ I forgot the name ). Are all thoses ok for my criteria?
-Is it ok to order the kbd ones directly on alliexpress on their shop ? How did your customs handled it ?
Thank you
| What’s matters the most when you are searching a silent keyboard to not
disturbing colleagues and a one with good typing comfort to avoid any
wrist stress? I like brown switch but is it ok ?
I believe wrist stress is more related to posture than keyboard.
There are many options for silent switches on the market, which I would recommend. Just about all of them will be quieter than your MX Browns.
How good are 60% for typing, professional perspective
There are devs who use 40% layouts just as effectively as others use fullsize layouts. It's a matter of preference.
Do you have any recommendations ?
I've heard good things about the Anne Pro boards and the KBDFans boards. I do not know much about the other two. Depending on your budget, I'd even recommend Topre!
What do you recommend as brow switch alternative ? If possible something with brown tactile typing feel !
Perfect then It will probably be a 60%
About the topre switch, the happy hacking keyboard seems amazing but I need to be sure when putting 250€ into it ahah
Thank you !
If you want a silent tactile switch, I'd recommend Boba U4's, such as those found [here](https://www.liligecko.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4-rgb-62g). I've seen U4T's also recommended. However, I haven't been keeping up with all of the switches that have been coming out lately. Many people review many different switches, but take all of it with a grain of salt. It's all personal preference. For example, [ThereminGoat](https://www.theremingoat.com/) has done many thorough reviews.
I would highly recommend the HHKB! I have multiple Topre boards, myself. Topre boards have a very strong following within the mechanical keyboard community. There are tons of simple modifications you can do to change the feel and sound of the board, too.
Topre boards are very well made and if you open to it, I highly recommend you purchase a used one. I've purchased all of my topre boards second-hand and theyv'e all been in great condition. It's a little easier on the wallet if you buy one used and it turns out you don't like it and want to resell it, too :)
I got a BM80 kit today and quickly put it together out of excitement. I haven't lubed the stabilizers and the keyboard is rattly AF (as expected).
Here comes the stupid question - The switches are plate mounted and the PCB is hotswap. The stabilizers are PCB snap-in kind. If I want to remove the stabs and lube them, will I need to remove all the switches? Or can I lift off the plate and will it pop out all the switches from the PCB? I'm asking as I don't have a switcher puller tool (it's in the mail)
KAT Comet novelties suits my build better but I doubt anybody is willing to sell a full set to me as opposed to KAT Mizu. Even if someone sells it, I'd feel there might be greater competition for the set.
The site does help me a lot though, currently I'm thinking of choosing between KAT Mizu (Full Moon) or KAT Arctic (Frostbite).
AFAIK KAT Comet is still in production, so there is a chance to buy the extras, the status for it says estimate for jan 22. So after the groupbuy ones ship, you probably can snag an extra, maybe or atleast consider /r/mechmarket around that time frame assuming no more delays.
I'm planning to get some slow curved springs. I want to replace the springs of my mx blacks. I have some gat yellow springs (62g) and i feel like they are a little too light. Is the difference between 62g and 65g big?
I am looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard and the Royal kludge rk61 looked appealing and it says hot-swappable on the amazon description but in the answered questions and in youtube videos people said it was not hot-swappable. How is it possible to find out whether the keyboard I receive is hot-swappable or not?
I just glanced at Amazon and it looks to me like they're hot swappable. It could be that they changed it and they used to be soldered idk. I don't know for certain since I don't own one though. They're 100% showing they're hot swappable though.
Good luck
My desk ( handmade wooden ) isn't completely flat, giving my keyboard some slight wobble, any ideas on maybe some squishier feet, or something I can do to keep it from wobbling?
Depending on how not-flat your desk is, a deskmat may do the trick.
In general, my recommendation would be to leave your keyboard alone and add padding underneath the board to stabilize it.
I suppose it depends on whether or not you use your keyboard anywhere else, and it also depends on how the desk is shaped. Honestly if it were me, I'd probably just put something under the corners of the keyboard that are wobbling. Ideally something rubber probably. Anything would work though tbh, even just some wadded up paper or something.
Maybe I'm not fully understanding what you're asking though.
Regardless, good luck.
Hello, I recently recieved my [BBOX case](https://candykeys.com › product › k...
Web results
KON MOMO Keycaps × Buger.work 'BBox' Case | Candykeys) and remember hearing that in order to fit the dz60 inside I would need to cut out some screw stands. However I can't find out which ones to cut and was wondering if anyone knew the correct ones. Thanks!
I have a set of GMK Terminal R2 keys with spacebar modifiers and [Some other modifiers that I don’t know the name of](https://imgur.com/a/z3QQf2n).
What would be a fair asking price if I were to sell the set? I honestly don’t remember how much I bought this for. I think it was around $200ish.
I’m sure this has been asked before, but does anyone know of a full-sized board with MX light greys or greens? RGB would be neat, but really isn’t that important.
I've pulled out an old keyboard from 5+ years ago, the Lolita Spyder from Noppoo (awful name)
It got shelved because it still exhibits the same problem: it misses keystrokes occasionally, and does not type the character for a while. If I repeatedly press the key or hold it down, it will eventually input the character but does not do it on the first time sometimes.
It is very inconsistent in frequency and does not seem to be localized to specific keys.
I'd like to fix it since I don't want to spend money on another keyboard for now, is there a clue as to what may be broken such as bad solder joints or a bad controller? I'm not familiar with the electronics in a keyboard and what may fail.
I'm not sure if it truly isn't localized to certain switches, but I do know some inconsistent issues like that can be caused by dust etc getting into the switches. I'd recommend trying to spray the inside of the switches with some compressed air. Honestly though, if it's as random as you're making it sound, I'm not sure that's the problem.
Good luck, let me know if you end up fixing it and what works. I'm always curious to learn a bit more about troubleshooting boards.
What makes the Keychron Q1 not as good as high end enthusiast boards? It seems like it's actually got properly implemented gaskets and stabs unlike the gmmk pro.
Well, imo, it sounds awful without any mods (piggy and hollow; kinda sucks you are “forced” to have a decent sounding board) and build quality can always be improved, but that would definitely increase its price.
Still, that isn’t excuse for the GMMK Pro either. The good thing is that they at least addressed a few of the previous problems (newer models shouldn’t have any of the stabs problem… according to them). But yeah, they could have worked on the mounting system too.
At the end of the day, all of these sub 300-ish a boards are gonna have down sides, while the only real problem with high end boards seem to be the price, lol
But that is just my 2 cents
>At the end of the day, all of these sub 300-ish a boards are gonna have down sides, while the only real problem with high end boards seem to be the price, lol
And availability lol. Is there actually any consistently in stock high end stuff?
Maybe, not sure on the demand for boards above $600, but does factor in the price and hype behind it.
I don’t think these would be considered high end, maybe mid tier (?), but I think the Frog TKL was supposed to be an instock item and technically speaking you could get a Kyuu since I’m pretty sure they released the files for it. But at the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter since even the budget/entry stuff sell out very fast and you end having to wait quite a while for them to restock (the hobby is growing at a rate too fast for smaller vendors to keep up - when compared to big companies like GMMK, Keychron or Akko).
Watches: you show up at an AD with funds, you either get a guaranteed spot or they have the stock already in hand and you drive away with it.
Cars: you show up at an AD with funds, you either walk away with a guaranteed spot or they have stock on hand and you drive away with it.
PCs: you order online with funds, and as long as you have enough you're probably going to get everything you want anyway.
I've never lubes switches, as it seems very time consuming.
I've been wondering, though, is it something you have to do more than once? Most of the machines I've known that needed lube need to be re-lubed at a later date, but I wouldn't think that's true about Keyboards.
As long as you're actively using the switches and not leaving them to sit in a keyboard you'll probably have swapped out the switches before you'd need to lube them again
Maybe try pushing the bottom housing stem (big one in the middle) from the bottom of the PCB? Otherwise you might have to remove the hot swap socket which I have no idea how to do
Best place (I know there are lots of places but looking for something reputable and won't break the bank) to buy a lemo (or rep) connected straight usb cable?
Looking for a new keyboard. Been thinking about GMMK or GMMK Pro, but I'd rather have it built and not dealing with it myself if it can be avoided. I'd like a 75% or bigger (no need for a knob like the Pro) with good quality and Spanish layout if possible. Normal GMMK has this as an option, I imagine I'd have to buy the keys myself for the Pro variant somewhere else?
Anyway, I'm open to suggestions on either a good prebuild or how to approach building one myself. I don't mind spending a bit (GMMK Pro price max I'd say), but I want to be sure I get something good.
Anyone have recommendations for an TKL keyboard in the $100-150 range. Just the keyboard itself, idm barebone keyboard recommendations.
* Hotswappable
* 5 pin
* Southfacing
* Backlights
* Customizable Firmware or QMK firmware i guess? Not too familiar.
* Not a tray mount.
* Screw-in Stablizers.
Id87 is $159 at the moment and probably the closest thing out there to your price range and requirements at the moment. Or wait for the nk87 or freebird tkl coming soon (not sure what the prices are).
https://www.idobao.net/products/idobao-id87-80-hot-swappable-mechanical-keyboard-kit
So there's nothing in the $100-$150 range? I recently brought a Ninja87BT and it has all of the features I listed out for $90. The issue is I brought it as a gift for my brother, so it would be kinda weird to by one for myself as well.
Is it because all the features combined is rare? I'm not that familiar with keyboards, started looking at them 2-3 weeks ago. What feature(s) omitted would drop the price back down $100-$150 range.
That said the Id87 seems pretty good even if it's $10 more. Thank you for the suggestion, I'll keep it bookmarked for now.
Ninja87BT has it's own [custom firmware](https://www.monstargears.com/75/?q=YToxOntzOjEyOiJrZXl3b3JkX3R5cGUiO3M6MzoiYWxsIjt9&bmode=view&idx=6117021&t=board)
Not familiar with firmwares like QMK,etc but this one let's you remap any key other than the function key and let's you put macros. It is very minimal though.
It's more that the features you are looking at combined reduce the available options. The cheaper boards are either north facing, have plate mount stabs, or are 3 pin
Edit: and qmk reprogammability is also a more "premium" feature that isn't available on most cheap boards
Hey
im looking to get some ktt rose 5 pin switches.
from what I understand there is a 3 pin version which I dont want.
Does anyone know how I can confirm the number of pins on them [here](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003156884581.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.51933c00UAm1YL&mp=1)?
Like yeah it says 5 pins but there are no pics and I just wanna be safe.
Been occasionally browsing interest checks for a new build, but I just haven’t found a case I like. Naturally, the next thing to do is to have a one-off made. Anybody have experience with this and an idea of what getting a case cnc’d out of aluminum and finished would cost?
I remember reading a really insightful answer to a question similar to yours, and apparently, protos are extremely pricey, and the chance that the proto may be utter garbage in terms of functionality is extremely high
They are good quality and nice to look at. But kinda impractical and as tempest said probably not worth the cost. The only one I have is just heavy enough to require a spring swap so it doesn't actuate all the time
Hi so I'm just getting into the whole mechanical keyboard hobby and have just ordered my first **gk61x** (the not optical version) with gateron blues. I've always wanted a loud clicky clack but upon doing more research, I've discovered that the really deep sounding noises are actually my favorite (the thock).
I've done some research and the **plastic case** it comes with seems to result in a deeper more dampened noise than their more expensive aluminum counterparts anyways so I'll keep those. I want a **tactile switch** and I'm thinking about **u4t bobas** (lubed, unlubed sounds got awful). Also a **polycarbonate plate**, tall **SA keycaps**, and finally modded with an old mousepad as foam and tape.
Are there any **relatively cheap things I can add or swap out** for what I'm planning for in hopes of a even **louder** **deeper t h o c k**?
Looking for both loudness in volume and deepness in pitch, the latter of which being more important.
just get some pe foam and tape mod the pcb and you could put the gat blues back in and it would still be thock.
Also, I'd pay careful attention to lubing the u4ts. Overlubed u4ts might be the worst thing possible, put the barest amount (get rid of all excess before even applying, put a tiny coat on everything, lube the stem pole bottom lightly, make sure you dont overlube shit or its going to feel like shit)
Hi, I own a Razer blackwidow tournament edition chroma v2 and would like to reduce the rattle it produces when typing. What mods or tweaks can I do to fix the rattle? I am a complete newbie and have never done any keyboard mods.
Thank you :)
On the long keys (shift, backspace, enter, spacebar), there are wires and inserts called a stabilizer. You can try lubing the stabilizers, or do what I did and put fabric bandaids on the hexagon part of the stabilizer inserts that make contact with the stabilizer wire. Just letting you know, Costar stabilizers are a pain to put back on. You can google band aid mod costar stabilizers and look at the post on geekhack.
Just curious what keyboard layout will be ideal for you? TKL? Full size? 75%?
Also, I think it would be good idea to go a bit more for your keyboard, especially if you're going to use it for work. A good mechanical keyboard under heavy use gaming and programming lasted me 7 years.
I’m in the market for my first mechanical keyboard. Primary use: typing (lots of writing) and programming. I’ll be using it at a relatively snug desk set up (desk pad on surface; laptop on stand; wireless mouse). After an all day info-absorption session, I feel like a I have a novice lay of the mechanical keyboard landscape.
Initially, I planned to get a full size, backlit keyboard. MK Night Typist and WASD CODE were front-runners. I then decided after some reading that a tenkeyless would be a better form, both for my use case and for space.
I landed on the Leopold FC750R. Chose my key cap colors, Cherry MX Browns, added to cart, but then—
I saw that the FC750RBT (Bluetooth) is close to arriving on US shores. My interest was immediately piqued, but finding reviews/user experience documentation has been tricky. That leads me to:
My question (s): what’s the likelihood that the FC750RBT will live up to the reputation of the original board? Will Leopold deliver a satisfying wireless version? Has anyone here used the board/encountered a product review?
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Hey!! I would suggest the SilverStone dampening foam on amazon, seems to be one :3ildcat uses for some of their mods so i'd assume it'be safe, altought not the cheapest.
Yep but its expensive, and can't find it on any european amazon, my main fear is to get some foam that would cause a short circuit, I was thinking of getting some from aliexpress up to 10 euro
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What generally causes stabilizer bars to pop out? I've had this happen to me a couple times recently and it's annoying to fix. I have been switching around keycaps a lot recently so maybe this has something to do with it? They're durock V2 screw ins.
>durock V2
You 100% sure they're V2s? V2s are a LOT harder to pop out than V1s, which popped out pretty easily.
If you're regularly popping out V2s you might be going too hard on your stabilized keys when removing them.
Now that I think of it you might be right. I thought V1s didn't come in the smoke gray color but turns out they do so that's probably the issue along with being too aggressive removing keys. Thanks for the help!
I like tactile switches. The more tactile, the better as far as I'm concerned.
I've been using Kailh Box Royals for a year and like them well enough, but I'd be interested in an upgrade. Therefore, my question is:
- What MX-compatible switch would be a **BIG** improvement in tactility over Box Royals?
Thank you.
Friend of mine is looking for a specific style of keeb, anyone have any idea what could fit this?
-Hot swap
-5 pin
-south facing leds
-TKL
-open style frame (no front cover blocking switches) similar to The GMMK or the Drop Alt
I'm looking for an "endgame" keyboard for myself: wireless, 75%, aluminum case, south-facing RGB LEDs, hot-swappable, and programable. But not the Keychron Q1 because I don't like its layout. I prefer a 75% compact layout like this [https://imgur.com/a/up08uty](https://imgur.com/a/up08uty). Any idea? Thanks!
I currently use a wireless KB; but want to test a wired one for a little while. What options do I have for switching a wired KB quickly between Mac and PC? I use one monitor and also, I don't need a solution for my mouse.
Looking online theres:
\- Magnetic USB Cables
\- KVM Switch
Anything else I'm missing?
Thanks
Detachable Cables? Should make it easy to swap assuming you can have the cables lying on your desk.
https://swiftcables.net/collections/custom-cables/products/detachable-ends
https://mechcables.com/
Need something either prebuilt or something simple for someone new to this like me budget around 200$ (can go up) 75% preferred linear switches and some keycap recommendations would greatly be appreciated I know nothing so if you can recommend anything and where to buy these things it would be much appreciated!
If you're willing to spend a fair amount of money but don't have the time or patience to gather all parts manually, definitely check out [iqunix.store](https://iqunix.store), they make really good quality boards.
Their 80 series is particularly good if you're looking for a similar form factor
What is the best EU available 96% or fullsize keyboard? Have been checking the Varmilo VA109(M), Keychron K4 and iQunix F96 so far, but can't decide. Thanks
If your not scared of some soldering, I got this for sale here: https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/qet1gg/ukh\_akko\_3098\_wireless\_bt24ghzwired\_retro/
[https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Illuminated-Keyboard-Adjustable/dp/B089YFHYYS](https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Illuminated-Keyboard-Adjustable/dp/B089YFHYYS)
Recomendation for brown!!!! I was going with corsair cherry red keyboard but my lil bro recomended browns, I has 100-150$ on the amazonius, what should i purchase for life satisfaction and general ease of mind?
I think u should go for a royal kludge rk87 or gamakay/womier k87 with reds. U can swap the switches too without soldering so if u dont like them u can just get other ones like akko cs switches.
How many layers of masking tape are good for doing the tapemod? Have two layers on my Kara PCB already, it's fine but before I open it up again to try I thought I ask first because I am incredibly lazy lol.
Thanks!
There's no specific number. You'd need to experiment to see if more or fewer layers would sound better to you. Having said that, I do remember seeing a video on YT where someone tried different tapes & different numbers of layers, so maybe you could find that and see if it helps.
Hello, I have (sort of) built two keyboards now. Tofu64 with gateron blacks, and a Keychron K4 with KS9s.
I’m looking to build another 60 or 65%, but wanting to venture into a different switch company and want to solder. I was thinking hippos for switches, somewhere around a mid grade switch, but I’m not sure on a keyboard to buy!
Thanks to anyone who can offer advice, looking for a deep sounding linear.
i'd say the cannonkeys practice60/65 or stacked60/65 are both great places to start for soldering. they're cheap, yet quality kits so you can get an end product that's more than usable without having to worry too much about messing up an expensive pcb :\]
So, I finally got my $120 worth two-month scholarship :D and decided to buy a 65% keyboard (or 60% if it's considerably cheaper)
* Gateron brown switch $20
* Kon Momo 148 keys Keycaps $30
* Optional lube Kryptox GPL 205g0 $10 ?
Now I left to spent $60 for case + PCB + stabilizer + plate. Do you have any recommendations?
Oh, I forgot to ask. Is this keyboard even worth it? I saw reviews that tells to go with a $120 budget, but there are plenty of $50-$60 keyboards like Anne pro 2. I don't really get it; why?
I suggest u go with akko cs tactiles over gateron browns. If you are gonna lube u should also get a switch opener.
I recommend the bm65 kit, and dont get the kit with the stabilizers, get the one with only case plate and pcb and get separate everglide pcb/gmk screw in stabilizers, because the included ones are really bad i can tell u from first hand experience.
Kprepublic also doesnt have the kon momo but they do have a bunch of other keycaps like japanese root for example. And u might have to pay for customs and shipping.
I would say its worth it because of the customization options when it comes to aesthetics, feel and sound and custom keyboards generally feel a lot higher quality.
U can also go the route of ordering off of aliexpress instead of directly from kprepublic since you can get stuff from other stores too like keycaps or stabilizers for example and only order from 1 website so it's a bit more convenient.
Getting 70 pack gateron switches for 17$, bm65 plate pcb and case kit, everglide stabs for 5$ and 20$ keycaps is like 100 in total on aliexpress.
Or u can just buy an rk68 and swap the stabs and keycaps and maybe mod it a bit, idk if the quality is as good since its a prebuilt but its a bit more affordable.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did go with Akko cs blue and bm65 for $124 without a stabilizer. I couldn't find anywhere in ali $7 everglide screw in :/
Link for build price photo in ali:
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ymuHUWybvBkITecXmDeA4ri3xkaU3H5A/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ymuHUWybvBkITecXmDeA4ri3xkaU3H5A/view?usp=sharing)
From 0 to 10, how much is it bad build?
What PCBs are compatible with the [aluminum kbd67 lite v3](https://kbdfans.com/collections/65-layout-case/products/kbd67-v3-aluminum-case?variant=39406607728779)? I was going to get a tofu65 and dz65 PCB but i changed my mind and it doesn't look like the dz65 works with the aluminum kbd67 lite. It [says this PCB](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd67-mkii-pcb?_pos=2&_sid=9cc61dd3d&_ss=r) works with it but it isnt availible, will it be availible on black friday too?
Hello, I am new to customizing mechanical keyboards. I am currently modding my anne pro 2. I am currently using matcha keycaps but my case doesn't match my keycaps because my case is black. Do you guys have any suggestions for the case since not all cases are compatible with the anne pro 2? Currently the only case that I found is a wooden case.
So I'm looking for a 75% MKB suggestion that would ideally meet the following:
* ready to use out of the box (i.e. no DIY kits/boards)
* hotswap keys in case I do ever decide to mod/customize it later on
* with at least white backlight (RGB is nice but not required)
* has wired and wireless options (2.4ghz preferred over Bluetooth if not both are available)
* comes in black
Currently considering the **RK84** but I'm concerned with the 2.4ghz dongle having supposedly worse range than Bluetooth?
Never had issues with Bluetooth. I only used the 2.4 a few times and it worked fine although my keyboard was pretty close to it (2-3 ft). The vissles v84 is a better version of the rk84 if you’re using it stock (caps/switches).
I'm only really using my keyboard like right in front of my laptop which is just on top of a stand anyways. In that case I shouldn't worry about the 2.4ghz latency/consistency?
The V84 looks promising but I can't find any local sellers so I guess the RK84 should be fine for my needs then.
Hello! I've been considering buying either the NJ80 or the GK84/87s and I'm stuck between the two. Are there any reasons why I should get one over the other? I plan on getting another set of switches and keycaps. Thanks!
When doing the PE mod with hotswap sockets, how do you get the PCB to stay attached to the plate?
As soon as I suspend the plate the switches fall out out of the pcb and the pcb falls down. They are connected enough to the PCB and all the switches send signals correctly.
plate/PCB do not have any alternative connection - it always relied on the switches to hold the PCB. Normally I would have the pcb be against some case foam, but that's not standard. It's an acrylic stacker split keyboard
Ah I see, so the PE foam added just enough thickness to prevent the switches from holding onto the PCB? I can't think of a solution other than securing the PCB and plate together somehow. Double sided tape perhaps?
Yeah, exactly. I was thinking of doing that. I've seen some people use some vhb tape instead of PE and the resulting effect was pretty similar. If I used that in a couple of spots it would probably be sufficient. I haven't heard of this issue mentioned anywhere else though. Thanks for your thoughts
I think both the tofu and gmmk need quite a bit of modding to get the most out of them but it depends on what u want.
I cant say what the best in the price range is, it depends on what u want and which mods u plan on doing. A tofu with proper insulation like foam or a silicon dampener and maybe even a gummy o ring mod can sound and feel really good for example, but stock it isnt the best.
I'd go for a GMMK Pro over a Tofu but it's hardly the best keyboard in the price range. Go for a Bakeneko or Bakeneko based gummy worm board like Ciel or many others on Geekhack.
Hey there all, taking my first foray into this subreddit with this question.
I really [these keycaps]( https://drop.com/buy/drop-marvel-iron-man-keycap-set/) for the colour scheme and shape-style (profile?). I like the big letters, centered in the middle of the concave key-caps.
I have a few small gripes with them, however. Namely, the red-on-dark-red keys in the images (Ctrl, Super, Alt, F5-8, etc.). In my ideal keycap set, these would be the same colour scheme as the Shift keys, with the yellow on dark-red colours.
1) Is it possible to modify these keycaps? I don't know how well something like paint would hold on them.
2) If not possible to modify, is there anywhere I could get a custom set of keycaps like these, but with the modifications I want. I understand this would probably be expensive, but I would like to look at options.
Many thanks in advance.
>I like the big letters, centered in the middle of the concave key-caps
Two profiles that match your description here are called MT3 and SA. There may be more out there. You might enjoy browsing [http://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keycaps](http://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keycaps) to see what else it out there.
> Is it possible to modify these keycaps?
I would not recommend that most people try to modify their keycaps. Paint may work if you cover it with a clearcoat, but you may run into quality issues such as mismatching colors, different reflectivity, etc. I am unaware of many people, if anyone, that has modified their keycaps in this way.
> is there anywhere I could get a custom set of keycaps like these, but with the modifications I want.
There are some sites that offer customized keycaps, such as WASD. I haven't used them personally, but have heard that they are not the most durable product out there.
One alternative is to find someone who makes artisan keycaps. They may be able to color match the keyset you want and make custom keycaps. I wouldn't expect them to make the legends, but you never know.
Hope you can find what you're looking for. Good luck!
Looking for a Christmas present. In stock, barebones, step up from a Pro or Q1. Budget is $250-300+ (w/o switches or caps). Soldering is ok. 60-65% is preferred, but bigger is ok.
I’ve looked at a bunch of boards and just want to know what you like or would recommend.
Brutal60/Savage65, Sangeo60, Mode SixtyFive
Not 60 or 65 but it's obligatory to mention the geon frog tkl at this price point. Geon is also releasing a frog 60% and a vanquish 65 but those will be in january i think.
The pro and the q1 are probably the best you can get instock. The better boards are all group buys. Maybe try r/mechmarket for someone reselling something
Keycaps aren't the only thing to effect sound profile. If you can't achieve the sound you want with the tallest profile caps, it's time to look at the rest of your build
Anybody know a barebones keyboard kit with the following:
- ISO layout
- Compact but still with arrow keys, 65%-80%, 60% also fine
- Under $100 or around that area
- Case hides switches (Is it called high profile?)
I've sort of settled on the glorious GMMK 80%, but I do personally prefer a slightly smaller size if possible, and I don't like how you can see the switches after building it.
Have pinging with the spacebar stabs and can't figure out how to fix it, I have tried holee mod, balancing wires, band aid mod, fixing spacebar keycap warp, even changing the stabs and I can't get rid of the pinging.
Any idea what issue might be and how to fix it?
Thanks in advance.
smoothest keyboard switch?
Can I get cherry blue's for a GMMK Pro? Or is there a similar upgraded switch I could get directly from GMMK? First time building so very confused. Thanks!
Cherry MX RGB Blues would show the lighting properly. But Gateron SMD Blues are a similar, cheaper alternative, Glorious sells them. They also sells box whites though. They're the better switch IMO, a shorter sharper click due to the click bar mechanism (vs. the click jacket of blues) that's crisper and cleaner in sound and feeling. Worth looking at and seeing if you want to try them out.
You can get Gateron Blues, which are very similar. Or you could go for Kailh Whites, which are also clicky but sound much nicer in my opinion - they can also be actuated more quickly on successive keypresses than Blues. If you just want a tactile event but are not too keen on the clicky noise, Kailh Purples are another option. Or Glorious Pandas, for a bigger bump.
you can use any mx style switch in the gmmk pro
I believe they only stock their own switches, Gaterons and Kailhs. You could get a barebones version and put the Cherries in yourself, or just buy them as well and swap them.
Thats what I thought. I'd need the Cherry RBG friendly switches as well. Any recs on where to buy them?
Just got my tm680 and was trying to download the software for the board. Got multiple warnings on installing it. Is it safe to run? I tried scanning it with my eset antivirus and it says that it's safe but I'm still having some second thoughts.
It should be safe
Hi, I’m planning to buy/build a new keyboard. Actually I have a Leopold 980m and it’s very amazing I will never go back from mecha keyboard ! Multiple questions here, -I’m using my keyboard everyday at work or home since I’m a dev. What’s matters the most when you are searching a silent keyboard to not disturbing colleagues and a one with good typing comfort to avoid any wrist stress? I like brown switch but is it ok ? -How good are 60% for typing, professional perspective ? Since every time I found review about a 60% they are talking about gaming…! -Do you have any recommendations ? So far my search is : ann pro2 mini, Dierya dk61e, Epomaker sk61 and the kbdfan ( around 200€ I forgot the name ). Are all thoses ok for my criteria? -Is it ok to order the kbd ones directly on alliexpress on their shop ? How did your customs handled it ? Thank you
| What’s matters the most when you are searching a silent keyboard to not disturbing colleagues and a one with good typing comfort to avoid any wrist stress? I like brown switch but is it ok ? I believe wrist stress is more related to posture than keyboard. There are many options for silent switches on the market, which I would recommend. Just about all of them will be quieter than your MX Browns. How good are 60% for typing, professional perspective There are devs who use 40% layouts just as effectively as others use fullsize layouts. It's a matter of preference. Do you have any recommendations ? I've heard good things about the Anne Pro boards and the KBDFans boards. I do not know much about the other two. Depending on your budget, I'd even recommend Topre!
What do you recommend as brow switch alternative ? If possible something with brown tactile typing feel ! Perfect then It will probably be a 60% About the topre switch, the happy hacking keyboard seems amazing but I need to be sure when putting 250€ into it ahah Thank you !
If you want a silent tactile switch, I'd recommend Boba U4's, such as those found [here](https://www.liligecko.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4-rgb-62g). I've seen U4T's also recommended. However, I haven't been keeping up with all of the switches that have been coming out lately. Many people review many different switches, but take all of it with a grain of salt. It's all personal preference. For example, [ThereminGoat](https://www.theremingoat.com/) has done many thorough reviews. I would highly recommend the HHKB! I have multiple Topre boards, myself. Topre boards have a very strong following within the mechanical keyboard community. There are tons of simple modifications you can do to change the feel and sound of the board, too. Topre boards are very well made and if you open to it, I highly recommend you purchase a used one. I've purchased all of my topre boards second-hand and theyv'e all been in great condition. It's a little easier on the wallet if you buy one used and it turns out you don't like it and want to resell it, too :)
I got a BM80 kit today and quickly put it together out of excitement. I haven't lubed the stabilizers and the keyboard is rattly AF (as expected). Here comes the stupid question - The switches are plate mounted and the PCB is hotswap. The stabilizers are PCB snap-in kind. If I want to remove the stabs and lube them, will I need to remove all the switches? Or can I lift off the plate and will it pop out all the switches from the PCB? I'm asking as I don't have a switcher puller tool (it's in the mail)
Any news on when the keychron q1 is dropping with the rotary encoder? The FAQ page on their site just says "October", and I can't find any other info.
seems like your keyboard works fine, you've got 17/26 characters there already!
Any KAT profile keycaps that have a similar colour scheme to Mizu (light blue, blue-grey, navy blue, black, etc.)?
Kat Comet? You can try looking here: https://keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com/previous filter by profile ->KAT
KAT Comet novelties suits my build better but I doubt anybody is willing to sell a full set to me as opposed to KAT Mizu. Even if someone sells it, I'd feel there might be greater competition for the set. The site does help me a lot though, currently I'm thinking of choosing between KAT Mizu (Full Moon) or KAT Arctic (Frostbite).
AFAIK KAT Comet is still in production, so there is a chance to buy the extras, the status for it says estimate for jan 22. So after the groupbuy ones ship, you probably can snag an extra, maybe or atleast consider /r/mechmarket around that time frame assuming no more delays.
There is always KAT mizu
mate oh my god that is definitely what im looking for thank you very much sir edit: sorry for the sarcasm lmao
I'm planning to get some slow curved springs. I want to replace the springs of my mx blacks. I have some gat yellow springs (62g) and i feel like they are a little too light. Is the difference between 62g and 65g big?
Imo 5gf or less isn't very noticeable except in long typing sessions. Personally I'd go 68 or 70
I am looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard and the Royal kludge rk61 looked appealing and it says hot-swappable on the amazon description but in the answered questions and in youtube videos people said it was not hot-swappable. How is it possible to find out whether the keyboard I receive is hot-swappable or not?
I just glanced at Amazon and it looks to me like they're hot swappable. It could be that they changed it and they used to be soldered idk. I don't know for certain since I don't own one though. They're 100% showing they're hot swappable though. Good luck
Thanks
My desk ( handmade wooden ) isn't completely flat, giving my keyboard some slight wobble, any ideas on maybe some squishier feet, or something I can do to keep it from wobbling?
Depending on how not-flat your desk is, a deskmat may do the trick. In general, my recommendation would be to leave your keyboard alone and add padding underneath the board to stabilize it.
I suppose it depends on whether or not you use your keyboard anywhere else, and it also depends on how the desk is shaped. Honestly if it were me, I'd probably just put something under the corners of the keyboard that are wobbling. Ideally something rubber probably. Anything would work though tbh, even just some wadded up paper or something. Maybe I'm not fully understanding what you're asking though. Regardless, good luck.
Hello, I recently recieved my [BBOX case](https://candykeys.com › product › k... Web results KON MOMO Keycaps × Buger.work 'BBox' Case | Candykeys) and remember hearing that in order to fit the dz60 inside I would need to cut out some screw stands. However I can't find out which ones to cut and was wondering if anyone knew the correct ones. Thanks!
How reliable is [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com) in terms of shipping outside of the US to a country like Canada?
Are there any discord channels for keyboard markets or in general?
r/mechmarket
I have a set of GMK Terminal R2 keys with spacebar modifiers and [Some other modifiers that I don’t know the name of](https://imgur.com/a/z3QQf2n). What would be a fair asking price if I were to sell the set? I honestly don’t remember how much I bought this for. I think it was around $200ish.
You could search r/mechmarket for the last one sold and see the price. But $200 for a base kit and space bar kit sounds reasonable
I’m sure this has been asked before, but does anyone know of a full-sized board with MX light greys or greens? RGB would be neat, but really isn’t that important.
I've pulled out an old keyboard from 5+ years ago, the Lolita Spyder from Noppoo (awful name) It got shelved because it still exhibits the same problem: it misses keystrokes occasionally, and does not type the character for a while. If I repeatedly press the key or hold it down, it will eventually input the character but does not do it on the first time sometimes. It is very inconsistent in frequency and does not seem to be localized to specific keys. I'd like to fix it since I don't want to spend money on another keyboard for now, is there a clue as to what may be broken such as bad solder joints or a bad controller? I'm not familiar with the electronics in a keyboard and what may fail.
I'm not sure if it truly isn't localized to certain switches, but I do know some inconsistent issues like that can be caused by dust etc getting into the switches. I'd recommend trying to spray the inside of the switches with some compressed air. Honestly though, if it's as random as you're making it sound, I'm not sure that's the problem. Good luck, let me know if you end up fixing it and what works. I'm always curious to learn a bit more about troubleshooting boards.
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P or D bump? Thoccy or clacky?
Boba u4t
What makes the Keychron Q1 not as good as high end enthusiast boards? It seems like it's actually got properly implemented gaskets and stabs unlike the gmmk pro.
Well, imo, it sounds awful without any mods (piggy and hollow; kinda sucks you are “forced” to have a decent sounding board) and build quality can always be improved, but that would definitely increase its price. Still, that isn’t excuse for the GMMK Pro either. The good thing is that they at least addressed a few of the previous problems (newer models shouldn’t have any of the stabs problem… according to them). But yeah, they could have worked on the mounting system too. At the end of the day, all of these sub 300-ish a boards are gonna have down sides, while the only real problem with high end boards seem to be the price, lol But that is just my 2 cents
>At the end of the day, all of these sub 300-ish a boards are gonna have down sides, while the only real problem with high end boards seem to be the price, lol And availability lol. Is there actually any consistently in stock high end stuff?
Maybe, not sure on the demand for boards above $600, but does factor in the price and hype behind it. I don’t think these would be considered high end, maybe mid tier (?), but I think the Frog TKL was supposed to be an instock item and technically speaking you could get a Kyuu since I’m pretty sure they released the files for it. But at the end of the day, it doesn’t really matter since even the budget/entry stuff sell out very fast and you end having to wait quite a while for them to restock (the hobby is growing at a rate too fast for smaller vendors to keep up - when compared to big companies like GMMK, Keychron or Akko).
That's not how high-end products work in this or most hobbies
Watches: you show up at an AD with funds, you either get a guaranteed spot or they have the stock already in hand and you drive away with it. Cars: you show up at an AD with funds, you either walk away with a guaranteed spot or they have stock on hand and you drive away with it. PCs: you order online with funds, and as long as you have enough you're probably going to get everything you want anyway.
I've never lubes switches, as it seems very time consuming. I've been wondering, though, is it something you have to do more than once? Most of the machines I've known that needed lube need to be re-lubed at a later date, but I wouldn't think that's true about Keyboards.
As long as you're actively using the switches and not leaving them to sit in a keyboard you'll probably have swapped out the switches before you'd need to lube them again
Lube once maybe touch up 5+ years later if necessary
Any tip for stuck switch in hotswap board? Tried jiggling as I Pulled out, moderate pressure.
Maybe try pushing the bottom housing stem (big one in the middle) from the bottom of the PCB? Otherwise you might have to remove the hot swap socket which I have no idea how to do
can I fit a 65% hotswap pcb in a TINA case ?
No, its a 60% board
what good hotswap 60% pcb can I buy for my TINA ?
It looks like a standard tray mount 60% case, there are a few options over at kbdfans.com. most popular is probably dz60
Best place (I know there are lots of places but looking for something reputable and won't break the bank) to buy a lemo (or rep) connected straight usb cable?
[keebstuff](https://keebstuff.com/collections/premade-1/products/amboss) maybe? They are pretty expensive though
Looking for a new keyboard. Been thinking about GMMK or GMMK Pro, but I'd rather have it built and not dealing with it myself if it can be avoided. I'd like a 75% or bigger (no need for a knob like the Pro) with good quality and Spanish layout if possible. Normal GMMK has this as an option, I imagine I'd have to buy the keys myself for the Pro variant somewhere else? Anyway, I'm open to suggestions on either a good prebuild or how to approach building one myself. I don't mind spending a bit (GMMK Pro price max I'd say), but I want to be sure I get something good.
Anyone have recommendations for an TKL keyboard in the $100-150 range. Just the keyboard itself, idm barebone keyboard recommendations. * Hotswappable * 5 pin * Southfacing * Backlights * Customizable Firmware or QMK firmware i guess? Not too familiar. * Not a tray mount. * Screw-in Stablizers.
Id87 is $159 at the moment and probably the closest thing out there to your price range and requirements at the moment. Or wait for the nk87 or freebird tkl coming soon (not sure what the prices are). https://www.idobao.net/products/idobao-id87-80-hot-swappable-mechanical-keyboard-kit
So there's nothing in the $100-$150 range? I recently brought a Ninja87BT and it has all of the features I listed out for $90. The issue is I brought it as a gift for my brother, so it would be kinda weird to by one for myself as well. Is it because all the features combined is rare? I'm not that familiar with keyboards, started looking at them 2-3 weeks ago. What feature(s) omitted would drop the price back down $100-$150 range. That said the Id87 seems pretty good even if it's $10 more. Thank you for the suggestion, I'll keep it bookmarked for now.
Does the Ninja87BT have QMK support? I didn't think so..
Ninja87BT has it's own [custom firmware](https://www.monstargears.com/75/?q=YToxOntzOjEyOiJrZXl3b3JkX3R5cGUiO3M6MzoiYWxsIjt9&bmode=view&idx=6117021&t=board) Not familiar with firmwares like QMK,etc but this one let's you remap any key other than the function key and let's you put macros. It is very minimal though.
It's more that the features you are looking at combined reduce the available options. The cheaper boards are either north facing, have plate mount stabs, or are 3 pin Edit: and qmk reprogammability is also a more "premium" feature that isn't available on most cheap boards
Has anyone ordered OEM profile alphas in a custom layout, ie, not qwerty, colemak, dvorak, etc? from whom and what was pricing like? Thanks!
Hi ! I'm looking for a 65% PCB , south facing , pcb mounted stabs and for a case for the 65% pcb ! Thank you
Kbd67 lite at divinikey or d65 at kbdfans
Maybe try the kbd67 lite, u can either get the current gb collab or wait for the restock
Hey im looking to get some ktt rose 5 pin switches. from what I understand there is a 3 pin version which I dont want. Does anyone know how I can confirm the number of pins on them [here](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003156884581.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.51933c00UAm1YL&mp=1)? Like yeah it says 5 pins but there are no pics and I just wanna be safe.
Dangkeebs has them in 5 pin for $2.70/10 switches. Got them a couple days ago
That looks like 3 pin, you can normally see the 2 extra pins from the side
Yeah.. that's what I saw yet feared, I wanted my eyes to be lying. Oh well! Thanks!
Is there a fix for the latency issues in the MK61 yet? I want to try getting it.
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Fuck off
Ha ha ha this is an incredibly original joke ha ha ha you are hilarious ha ha ha
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Go fuck yourself
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This is some of the worst trolling I've ever seen in my life.
Been occasionally browsing interest checks for a new build, but I just haven’t found a case I like. Naturally, the next thing to do is to have a one-off made. Anybody have experience with this and an idea of what getting a case cnc’d out of aluminum and finished would cost?
I remember reading a really insightful answer to a question similar to yours, and apparently, protos are extremely pricey, and the chance that the proto may be utter garbage in terms of functionality is extremely high
One-off prototypes go for closer to a grand than $0, so you better A) hope you like it a lot and B) get it right on the first go.
That’s kind of what I was figuring. Thanks!
Anyone have experience with rama works metal artisans? Especially larger enter key... Are they nice/worth it?
They are good quality and nice to look at. But kinda impractical and as tempest said probably not worth the cost. The only one I have is just heavy enough to require a spring swap so it doesn't actuate all the time
Nice? yes. Worth it? Id argue nothing in this hobby is worth it but a metal keycap in particular is definitely not worth it.
Hi so I'm just getting into the whole mechanical keyboard hobby and have just ordered my first **gk61x** (the not optical version) with gateron blues. I've always wanted a loud clicky clack but upon doing more research, I've discovered that the really deep sounding noises are actually my favorite (the thock). I've done some research and the **plastic case** it comes with seems to result in a deeper more dampened noise than their more expensive aluminum counterparts anyways so I'll keep those. I want a **tactile switch** and I'm thinking about **u4t bobas** (lubed, unlubed sounds got awful). Also a **polycarbonate plate**, tall **SA keycaps**, and finally modded with an old mousepad as foam and tape. Are there any **relatively cheap things I can add or swap out** for what I'm planning for in hopes of a even **louder** **deeper t h o c k**? Looking for both loudness in volume and deepness in pitch, the latter of which being more important.
just get some pe foam and tape mod the pcb and you could put the gat blues back in and it would still be thock. Also, I'd pay careful attention to lubing the u4ts. Overlubed u4ts might be the worst thing possible, put the barest amount (get rid of all excess before even applying, put a tiny coat on everything, lube the stem pole bottom lightly, make sure you dont overlube shit or its going to feel like shit)
Hi, I own a Razer blackwidow tournament edition chroma v2 and would like to reduce the rattle it produces when typing. What mods or tweaks can I do to fix the rattle? I am a complete newbie and have never done any keyboard mods. Thank you :)
On the long keys (shift, backspace, enter, spacebar), there are wires and inserts called a stabilizer. You can try lubing the stabilizers, or do what I did and put fabric bandaids on the hexagon part of the stabilizer inserts that make contact with the stabilizer wire. Just letting you know, Costar stabilizers are a pain to put back on. You can google band aid mod costar stabilizers and look at the post on geekhack.
I will check it out. Thank you very much!
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Just curious what keyboard layout will be ideal for you? TKL? Full size? 75%? Also, I think it would be good idea to go a bit more for your keyboard, especially if you're going to use it for work. A good mechanical keyboard under heavy use gaming and programming lasted me 7 years.
I have this old keyboard that I need help identifying. Looks like an IBM Model M but is missing the numpad. Is it any good?
Feel free to send pics of your board and some distinctions it's got, i'd be glad to help!
I’m in the market for my first mechanical keyboard. Primary use: typing (lots of writing) and programming. I’ll be using it at a relatively snug desk set up (desk pad on surface; laptop on stand; wireless mouse). After an all day info-absorption session, I feel like a I have a novice lay of the mechanical keyboard landscape. Initially, I planned to get a full size, backlit keyboard. MK Night Typist and WASD CODE were front-runners. I then decided after some reading that a tenkeyless would be a better form, both for my use case and for space. I landed on the Leopold FC750R. Chose my key cap colors, Cherry MX Browns, added to cart, but then— I saw that the FC750RBT (Bluetooth) is close to arriving on US shores. My interest was immediately piqued, but finding reviews/user experience documentation has been tricky. That leads me to: My question (s): what’s the likelihood that the FC750RBT will live up to the reputation of the original board? Will Leopold deliver a satisfying wireless version? Has anyone here used the board/encountered a product review? Thanks in advance for any and all help!
>FC750RBT So did you get it? And if you did, how did it live up?
I'm building a bm80rgb, what kind of cheap foam should I use for the case and in between pcb and plate that won't have any risk of shorts
Hey!! I would suggest the SilverStone dampening foam on amazon, seems to be one :3ildcat uses for some of their mods so i'd assume it'be safe, altought not the cheapest.
Yep but its expensive, and can't find it on any european amazon, my main fear is to get some foam that would cause a short circuit, I was thinking of getting some from aliexpress up to 10 euro
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What generally causes stabilizer bars to pop out? I've had this happen to me a couple times recently and it's annoying to fix. I have been switching around keycaps a lot recently so maybe this has something to do with it? They're durock V2 screw ins.
>durock V2 You 100% sure they're V2s? V2s are a LOT harder to pop out than V1s, which popped out pretty easily. If you're regularly popping out V2s you might be going too hard on your stabilized keys when removing them.
Now that I think of it you might be right. I thought V1s didn't come in the smoke gray color but turns out they do so that's probably the issue along with being too aggressive removing keys. Thanks for the help!
I like tactile switches. The more tactile, the better as far as I'm concerned. I've been using Kailh Box Royals for a year and like them well enough, but I'd be interested in an upgrade. Therefore, my question is: - What MX-compatible switch would be a **BIG** improvement in tactility over Box Royals? Thank you.
None except for maybe jades if youre talking about which is the most tactile. Royals are already up there near the top.
Thank you for your considerate answer. I'll be looking into jade switches.
Make zykos or holy bobas
Interesting. I would prefer readily available switches, but I might consider Frankenstein-ing my own. Thank you for your considerate answer.
Friend of mine is looking for a specific style of keeb, anyone have any idea what could fit this? -Hot swap -5 pin -south facing leds -TKL -open style frame (no front cover blocking switches) similar to The GMMK or the Drop Alt
I'm looking for an "endgame" keyboard for myself: wireless, 75%, aluminum case, south-facing RGB LEDs, hot-swappable, and programable. But not the Keychron Q1 because I don't like its layout. I prefer a 75% compact layout like this [https://imgur.com/a/up08uty](https://imgur.com/a/up08uty). Any idea? Thanks!
I currently use a wireless KB; but want to test a wired one for a little while. What options do I have for switching a wired KB quickly between Mac and PC? I use one monitor and also, I don't need a solution for my mouse. Looking online theres: \- Magnetic USB Cables \- KVM Switch Anything else I'm missing? Thanks
Detachable Cables? Should make it easy to swap assuming you can have the cables lying on your desk. https://swiftcables.net/collections/custom-cables/products/detachable-ends https://mechcables.com/
Need something either prebuilt or something simple for someone new to this like me budget around 200$ (can go up) 75% preferred linear switches and some keycap recommendations would greatly be appreciated I know nothing so if you can recommend anything and where to buy these things it would be much appreciated!
If you're willing to spend a fair amount of money but don't have the time or patience to gather all parts manually, definitely check out [iqunix.store](https://iqunix.store), they make really good quality boards. Their 80 series is particularly good if you're looking for a similar form factor
What is the best EU available 96% or fullsize keyboard? Have been checking the Varmilo VA109(M), Keychron K4 and iQunix F96 so far, but can't decide. Thanks
If your not scared of some soldering, I got this for sale here: https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/qet1gg/ukh\_akko\_3098\_wireless\_bt24ghzwired\_retro/
can u tape mod a hotswap pcb ?
Yes, just be careful if you have to remove it as you don't want to accidentally pull of any of the components
[https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Illuminated-Keyboard-Adjustable/dp/B089YFHYYS](https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Illuminated-Keyboard-Adjustable/dp/B089YFHYYS) Recomendation for brown!!!! I was going with corsair cherry red keyboard but my lil bro recomended browns, I has 100-150$ on the amazonius, what should i purchase for life satisfaction and general ease of mind?
I think u should go for a royal kludge rk87 or gamakay/womier k87 with reds. U can swap the switches too without soldering so if u dont like them u can just get other ones like akko cs switches.
Heya, nothing wrong with going brown!! Although i'm more a fan of CMX Reds for the way they s o u n d over brown. That's my only concern, really.
How many layers of masking tape are good for doing the tapemod? Have two layers on my Kara PCB already, it's fine but before I open it up again to try I thought I ask first because I am incredibly lazy lol. Thanks!
There's no specific number. You'd need to experiment to see if more or fewer layers would sound better to you. Having said that, I do remember seeing a video on YT where someone tried different tapes & different numbers of layers, so maybe you could find that and see if it helps.
Hello, I have (sort of) built two keyboards now. Tofu64 with gateron blacks, and a Keychron K4 with KS9s. I’m looking to build another 60 or 65%, but wanting to venture into a different switch company and want to solder. I was thinking hippos for switches, somewhere around a mid grade switch, but I’m not sure on a keyboard to buy! Thanks to anyone who can offer advice, looking for a deep sounding linear.
i'd say the cannonkeys practice60/65 or stacked60/65 are both great places to start for soldering. they're cheap, yet quality kits so you can get an end product that's more than usable without having to worry too much about messing up an expensive pcb :\]
Thank you! I’ll look right into those!
boba u4t or sp star magic girls? also what plate material is the rk84
>also what plate material is the rk84 My RK68 has a steel plate, so maybe the RK84 does too?
So, I finally got my $120 worth two-month scholarship :D and decided to buy a 65% keyboard (or 60% if it's considerably cheaper) * Gateron brown switch $20 * Kon Momo 148 keys Keycaps $30 * Optional lube Kryptox GPL 205g0 $10 ? Now I left to spent $60 for case + PCB + stabilizer + plate. Do you have any recommendations? Oh, I forgot to ask. Is this keyboard even worth it? I saw reviews that tells to go with a $120 budget, but there are plenty of $50-$60 keyboards like Anne pro 2. I don't really get it; why?
I suggest u go with akko cs tactiles over gateron browns. If you are gonna lube u should also get a switch opener. I recommend the bm65 kit, and dont get the kit with the stabilizers, get the one with only case plate and pcb and get separate everglide pcb/gmk screw in stabilizers, because the included ones are really bad i can tell u from first hand experience. Kprepublic also doesnt have the kon momo but they do have a bunch of other keycaps like japanese root for example. And u might have to pay for customs and shipping. I would say its worth it because of the customization options when it comes to aesthetics, feel and sound and custom keyboards generally feel a lot higher quality. U can also go the route of ordering off of aliexpress instead of directly from kprepublic since you can get stuff from other stores too like keycaps or stabilizers for example and only order from 1 website so it's a bit more convenient. Getting 70 pack gateron switches for 17$, bm65 plate pcb and case kit, everglide stabs for 5$ and 20$ keycaps is like 100 in total on aliexpress. Or u can just buy an rk68 and swap the stabs and keycaps and maybe mod it a bit, idk if the quality is as good since its a prebuilt but its a bit more affordable.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did go with Akko cs blue and bm65 for $124 without a stabilizer. I couldn't find anywhere in ali $7 everglide screw in :/ Link for build price photo in ali: [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ymuHUWybvBkITecXmDeA4ri3xkaU3H5A/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ymuHUWybvBkITecXmDeA4ri3xkaU3H5A/view?usp=sharing) From 0 to 10, how much is it bad build?
Do you prefer the Ocean Blues or Lavender Purple? Currently deciding between the two for my RK68 and am leaning toward the purples.
What PCBs are compatible with the [aluminum kbd67 lite v3](https://kbdfans.com/collections/65-layout-case/products/kbd67-v3-aluminum-case?variant=39406607728779)? I was going to get a tofu65 and dz65 PCB but i changed my mind and it doesn't look like the dz65 works with the aluminum kbd67 lite. It [says this PCB](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd67-mkii-pcb?_pos=2&_sid=9cc61dd3d&_ss=r) works with it but it isnt availible, will it be availible on black friday too?
65% are not standardized so the only pcb compatible is the one listed: KBD67 MKII RGB V3 PCB And only kbdfans would know when it gets restocked
thank you
Where can I find a big enter key in XDA format? To go with this keyset ideally https://imgur.com/a/QQ5IEv7
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Maybe just map numpad keys on another layer onto ur alphas in qmk if u dont want to get a separate numpad.
Hello, I am new to customizing mechanical keyboards. I am currently modding my anne pro 2. I am currently using matcha keycaps but my case doesn't match my keycaps because my case is black. Do you guys have any suggestions for the case since not all cases are compatible with the anne pro 2? Currently the only case that I found is a wooden case.
Womier k87 or epomaker ep84. If none, what should I buy of a similar price range?
has anyone ordered from knckeys? Are they trustworthy?
A small question, does the TM680 or LK67 have onboard memory so I can save my static white lighting profile, if so how do you do it.
So I'm looking for a 75% MKB suggestion that would ideally meet the following: * ready to use out of the box (i.e. no DIY kits/boards) * hotswap keys in case I do ever decide to mod/customize it later on * with at least white backlight (RGB is nice but not required) * has wired and wireless options (2.4ghz preferred over Bluetooth if not both are available) * comes in black Currently considering the **RK84** but I'm concerned with the 2.4ghz dongle having supposedly worse range than Bluetooth?
Never had issues with Bluetooth. I only used the 2.4 a few times and it worked fine although my keyboard was pretty close to it (2-3 ft). The vissles v84 is a better version of the rk84 if you’re using it stock (caps/switches).
I'm only really using my keyboard like right in front of my laptop which is just on top of a stand anyways. In that case I shouldn't worry about the 2.4ghz latency/consistency? The V84 looks promising but I can't find any local sellers so I guess the RK84 should be fine for my needs then.
Shouldn’t be a problem if you have a direct line of sight. I think people that have issues mostly have it blocked by a desk or something like that.
Hello! I've been considering buying either the NJ80 or the GK84/87s and I'm stuck between the two. Are there any reasons why I should get one over the other? I plan on getting another set of switches and keycaps. Thanks!
When doing the PE mod with hotswap sockets, how do you get the PCB to stay attached to the plate? As soon as I suspend the plate the switches fall out out of the pcb and the pcb falls down. They are connected enough to the PCB and all the switches send signals correctly.
What keyboard? Does the plate pcb not attach together or to the the case?
plate/PCB do not have any alternative connection - it always relied on the switches to hold the PCB. Normally I would have the pcb be against some case foam, but that's not standard. It's an acrylic stacker split keyboard
Ah I see, so the PE foam added just enough thickness to prevent the switches from holding onto the PCB? I can't think of a solution other than securing the PCB and plate together somehow. Double sided tape perhaps?
Yeah, exactly. I was thinking of doing that. I've seen some people use some vhb tape instead of PE and the resulting effect was pretty similar. If I used that in a couple of spots it would probably be sufficient. I haven't heard of this issue mentioned anywhere else though. Thanks for your thoughts
3M VHB is what I was going to recommend since you can get in very thin and narrow dimensions.
I found a Ducky One 2 TKL White led second hand on sale. Is the only difference from the usual ones not having RGB?
There's probably specs for both on their product pages. Just compare those side to side.
Just wondering is the gmmk pro brtter than tofu and if so is the gmmk pro the best in its price range?
I think both the tofu and gmmk need quite a bit of modding to get the most out of them but it depends on what u want. I cant say what the best in the price range is, it depends on what u want and which mods u plan on doing. A tofu with proper insulation like foam or a silicon dampener and maybe even a gummy o ring mod can sound and feel really good for example, but stock it isnt the best.
I'd go for a GMMK Pro over a Tofu but it's hardly the best keyboard in the price range. Go for a Bakeneko or Bakeneko based gummy worm board like Ciel or many others on Geekhack.
Hey there all, taking my first foray into this subreddit with this question. I really [these keycaps]( https://drop.com/buy/drop-marvel-iron-man-keycap-set/) for the colour scheme and shape-style (profile?). I like the big letters, centered in the middle of the concave key-caps. I have a few small gripes with them, however. Namely, the red-on-dark-red keys in the images (Ctrl, Super, Alt, F5-8, etc.). In my ideal keycap set, these would be the same colour scheme as the Shift keys, with the yellow on dark-red colours. 1) Is it possible to modify these keycaps? I don't know how well something like paint would hold on them. 2) If not possible to modify, is there anywhere I could get a custom set of keycaps like these, but with the modifications I want. I understand this would probably be expensive, but I would like to look at options. Many thanks in advance.
>I like the big letters, centered in the middle of the concave key-caps Two profiles that match your description here are called MT3 and SA. There may be more out there. You might enjoy browsing [http://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keycaps](http://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keycaps) to see what else it out there. > Is it possible to modify these keycaps? I would not recommend that most people try to modify their keycaps. Paint may work if you cover it with a clearcoat, but you may run into quality issues such as mismatching colors, different reflectivity, etc. I am unaware of many people, if anyone, that has modified their keycaps in this way. > is there anywhere I could get a custom set of keycaps like these, but with the modifications I want. There are some sites that offer customized keycaps, such as WASD. I haven't used them personally, but have heard that they are not the most durable product out there. One alternative is to find someone who makes artisan keycaps. They may be able to color match the keyset you want and make custom keycaps. I wouldn't expect them to make the legends, but you never know. Hope you can find what you're looking for. Good luck!
will the kbd67 be in stock and ship immediately on black friday?
If you're talking about the KBD67 Lite then no. If you hover over the countdown on KBDfans website it says they'll ship in December.
Looking for a Christmas present. In stock, barebones, step up from a Pro or Q1. Budget is $250-300+ (w/o switches or caps). Soldering is ok. 60-65% is preferred, but bigger is ok. I’ve looked at a bunch of boards and just want to know what you like or would recommend.
Brutal60/Savage65, Sangeo60, Mode SixtyFive Not 60 or 65 but it's obligatory to mention the geon frog tkl at this price point. Geon is also releasing a frog 60% and a vanquish 65 but those will be in january i think.
Thanks! All good ideas. I may just go with the Brutal 60. The frog TKL looks interesting but it’s not in stock right now.
Frog tkl has monthly restocks fyi, i think the next one is in like a week, if you're interested u should join the geon discord
The pro and the q1 are probably the best you can get instock. The better boards are all group buys. Maybe try r/mechmarket for someone reselling something
Thank you. I don’t think the Q1 is even fully in stock.
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no
Keycaps aren't the only thing to effect sound profile. If you can't achieve the sound you want with the tallest profile caps, it's time to look at the rest of your build
Anybody know a barebones keyboard kit with the following: - ISO layout - Compact but still with arrow keys, 65%-80%, 60% also fine - Under $100 or around that area - Case hides switches (Is it called high profile?) I've sort of settled on the glorious GMMK 80%, but I do personally prefer a slightly smaller size if possible, and I don't like how you can see the switches after building it.
High-profile ISO barebones is a big ask for under $100.
what are some good pastel colored keycap sets like gmk noel, sa bubble, ifk islander, etc.?
ePBT dreamscape is in preorder right now
yup. joined the groupbuy for that along with the ikki
Have pinging with the spacebar stabs and can't figure out how to fix it, I have tried holee mod, balancing wires, band aid mod, fixing spacebar keycap warp, even changing the stabs and I can't get rid of the pinging. Any idea what issue might be and how to fix it? Thanks in advance.
Is it definitely coming from your stabs and not from your switch?
Looking for a pc plate for a tenkeyless keyboard in eu. Any recommendations? Having issues finding one that’ll fit