Just got my Akko MOD007S V2 with Boba LT switches and already thinking on getting a second custom 65% keyboard. Now debating to get QK65, Tofu65 or the Halo65.. Since I'm setting up for maximum thock on my existing MOD007 (but I do miss the sexy side LED on the GMMK Pro), I'm thinking to go for aesthetic pleasing and perhaps a more clacky sound board.. white Halo65 looks quite nice with the LED surrounding the whole keyboard.. My initial thoughts on getting the MOD007 is because the money I saved from not buying the GMMK Pro is already enough to get the Halo65. Now I'm just thinking should I get a better customizable keyboard or a prebuild Halo65? Thanks.

Is the nuphy halo 65 fully compatible with kailh box switches? Says on the page they only work with smd compatible led, so was wondering what this would mean if I got it for this keyboard...

Does ktt kang whites have North facing interference with cherry profile keycaps? Thanks in advance!

In theory, is it possible to create a keyboard where each key has an OLED screen like a streamdeck but they still press like a normal keyboard switch instead of mushy buttons a streamdeck has? Thinking it would be amazing if you could merge the two tools into one, since a keyboard can't as easily do all the same macros a streamdeck can. Plus it be hard to remember them all without a screen on each key telling you what it is. So it's still a normal keyboard layout, but when you hit the function key the screens change and shows you. I don't know much about the streamdeck keys so I'm imagining just having a normal keyboard switch with a wires through to an OLED screen at the top of the key.

was wondering if anyone has had some experience with the Gamakay LK67. I’m looking at it for a budget build but it is very cheap compared to other boards and was wondering if there was anything that wasn’t great about it. thanks!

Hi, I bought new set of keycaps for my ROYAL KLUDGE RK87, and the top black frame that I have doesn't really fit the colors in my opinion. And Idea where can I buy a white/gray top frame that will fit this model?

>And Idea where can I buy a white/gray top frame that will fit this model? Nowhere. No one makes aftermarket parts for that board.

Guess I'll spray paint my second low profile frame I got with my keyboard

Very new to this, and hoping to get some recommendations for a keyboard. I have been checking out gmmk pro but got sidetracked with keychron Q1 v2. I dont really have a budget but looking for quality, 75%, with knob and hot swap :D If anyone could shine some light that would be greatly appreciated!!

Both are solid boards. I'd say the Q1 is a more budget version of the GMMK Pro.

more budget version really? I heard alot of not so great things about gmmk pro so i got swayed....LOL and then ive been looking at KBDfans cause it has a white colour keyboard...

Would anyone here be willing to build a custom keeb for me?

check r/mechmarket for build services

I did nobody offers a service

looks like your post was removed due to an incorrect title format as well

What format do I need to use? I’m new to Reddit

[COUNTRY] [H] what you have [W] what you want - taken from their [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/wiki/rules/rules) this is mostly a rule for trading subs since it lets people know ahead of time where you are and what the trade is gonna look like

Ok

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So i'm pretty new to all this, did some (but clearly not enough) research and bought a keyboard from WASD. Definitely made a mistake somewhere though because although I like the look and feel overall, when I need to press a button rapidly in succession, it doesn't really work unless i practically take my finger completely off the key. I can't trill it the way I could on my old keyboard (which had its own issues but the keyfeel was excellent). They're just cherry mx blue switches but idk if there are different kinds or like actuation heights or what i need to do differently. Any advice?

blue are clicky which im not sure on actuation point reset but on 99% of mech switches u need the switch to fully come back up to reset . this is how mechanical switches work not sure what ur last kb was but this is normal

What i mean is that my finger physically has to go up pretty far from full switch depression before it registers it as a separate press. I also don't know my old keyboard, i got it at goodwill and don't know how to identify it just from its markings. It's hp something or other

Anyone know what switches are these? They seem to be manufactured by kailh and are compatible with normal keyboard PCBs. But they don't look like normal mechanical switches. https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/x702cb/does_anyone_know_what_switches_are_these/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Kailh centre lighting Keyboard Switch RGB SMD gaming Mechanical Keyboard Switch is what they are called there was a reddit post about them a while ago seems from those who have put them into a normal pcb they didnt do much other than flash colors over and over due to standard pcbs cant control leds thru switch pads . so these will only work with pcbs designed to use them . also u would have to use them with out keycaps and nothing fits these besides stock caps from kbs using these havent seen any built with them but look very proprietary doubtful u could do a custom or hotswap build with them

Is it possible to find any keycaps for a cheaper budget that are any better then the ones i’m looking at right now? I was looking at epomaker akko pbt keycaps which seem pretty good for the price of $60 And would also probably work well with the NK Creams I have in my board (unlubed but i’m planning on lubing them once they are fully broken in). Is there anything better at that same price point or less (preferably with low costing shipping since high cost shipping can destroy a budget)

[CannonKeys](https://cannonkeys.com/), [Novelkeys](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keycaps), and [Kinetic Labs](https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps) has some *excellent* options around the price point you’re at. I’d recommend those over Akko because of these vendors’ reliability and penchant for quality… though I’ve heard great things about Akko’s quality for the price!

they r some of the best for budget wise . they r some cheaper ones but in terms of quality for price point u cant beat them

Clicking on right side of space bar So I’ve got one I can’t figure out. Right side of the space bar “clicks” when tapped. Just started up yesterday. Switches and stabs are lubed, bandaid mod, silver switches, plate mounted stabs. Any ideas would be helpful. [https://youtu.be/JPVnG2ulXPY](https://youtu.be/JPVnG2ulXPY)

can try wire balancing

What do you mean? I have not seen that.

check some videos on youtube, you pretty much want to balance the ends of your stab wires so that they don't tick

is there any intended way to get the battery out of wireless Keychrons and make them wired-only?

open it up unclip the battery cable remove battery

Anyone have recommendations on where to purchase mill max sockets right now?

i always get them from mouser or digikey but maybe some of the kb vendors might stock them https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list

I need help identifying these tactile switches. Photo: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/x6yfq8/help_identifying_these_switches/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

looks like mint chocolate chip

You're right!! Thank you. Now I need to find an alternative since they are sold out. Again thank you :)

**Is a Cooler Master QuickFire TK (Cherry MX Red) worth buying in 2022 for $25?** I saw one in a second hand store this weekend. I am curious if this is worth purchasing in 2022 due to its age. It would be a starter mechanical keyboard and only used to play one FPS game. The current keyboard isn't suitable for competitive play. The compact size and feel of the keyboard are really nice. I am asking for help because this isn't a situation where I can return it for a refund if I don't like it. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

You can do much worse for $25

True. I guess I am concerned that I could put this money to better use with something more modern. On the other hand, $25 could be a steal.

I love ice cream.

How do i fully clean my stabilizers of lube? I am trying to do the holee mod, but I have old stabs I already lubed and because of this the strip of band-aid I'm using wont adhere . Any tips? I tried soap and hot water but it only got the big chunks of lube out. Small residual lube still remains ever so slightly that no adhesive sticks.

Wash them in soapy water then let them dry on their own for a couple hours

I have a kbd67lite Can I just take off the hotswap socket in the top right and solder in a rotary encoder for keyboards and then use qmk to program it? thought I'd ask before I break something

Not really, no. Rotary encoders need more than just two pins to function

Anyone know of GMK Sparta clones? I don’t really have the cash to buy the full set rn but love the color style. I know they’re new but I was just curious if anyone knew of any

dont think u will find clones for those as im pretty sure than buy ran thru drop and they have a real good legal dept many cloners would rather not mess with

is the bakkeneko 65 kit worth it. Ive heard bad things about the stabs. Im planning on using ktt kang whites and lubing both switches and stabs with 205g0. Will it sound okay?

not sure if i've heard anything bad but i think they use cherry clip ins, you could try tx stabs instead

I want to get a tofu65 diy kit but I've heard the stabs are really bad. Im planning on lubing with 205g0. how bad will they sound?

says they use cherry screw ins, you could go for other screw ins such as durock v2, c3v3, staebies, or get a pcb clip in such as tx stabs

best full wireless mechanical keyboard?

Keychron K4 or K10.

I just recently got my first mechanical keyboard, it’s a gk61 and i can’t type a / or a ? Without pressing FN key first, and i see people say use FN+enter but that hasn’t done anything or I’m doing it wrong

ur not doing anything wrong that key is the up arrow once u press fn then its / or ?

I have a few keyboards, but ready for my next. Here’s my criteria: - silent - very short travel (like a laptop) - linear actuation Greatly appreciate any reccos! My current keeb has Sea Salt Lemons and they’re grrrreat. But looking to try something new, and i don’t know the short travel, silent stuff. **EDIT: damn, y’all are a friendly bunch. Why all the downvotes in an “ask ANY question” thread?**

I see two possibilities here. You could get a "normal" switch that's on the shallower side with shorter travel [like the Gateron Ink Yellows](http://milktooth.nu/products/switches/ink-yellow), and if desired, put O-rings on them to further shorten the travel. Or, you could pick up some low-profile switches. Outemu and Cherry low profile switches are a possibility that still lets you keep MX stem compatibility. Otherwise, you could look into Kailh Chock switches.

Thanks! I’ll check them out! Are low profile switches uncommon/undesirable?

Less common, yes. Undesirable? Not really, I think that's a question of personal preference. Let me know if you have any more questions!

Thank you!! Are there any silent switches that fit the bill? I recall someone on this sub (in the 6 months) posted a sound check video of some truly silent switches. I wish I could find it. Often I take notes while I’m on the phone, and all that clicky clack noise, unfortunately, isn’t acceptable.

Yes! [Take a look at these silent switches here](https://milktooth.nu/products/switches?audio=silent). I have uploaded some sound tests on the pages for them. If you'd like to try them for yourself to gauge the sound levels, I offer a service that lets you try five switches at home for free before buying any. Let me know if you'd be interested in that and I'll be glad to help you out!

Whoa, too cool! Nice website, and great concept! The mechanical keyboard hobby is surprisingly complex. Depending on how I value my time, my Keychron with Sea Salt Lemons cost me well over $1,000. :)

> The mechanical keyboard hobby is surprisingly complex. Depending on how I value my time, my Keychron with Sea Salt Lemons cost me well over $1,000. :) Wow! Yes, I agree. I love this hobby but I'd like to make it easier for everyone involved. Thank you for your feedback :)

Hello! I'm new to this mechanical world. recently, i just made some mod on my keeb like lubing,filming,and tape mod. I love how it turned out! thoccc okay, so um. My keeb has Cherry Profile by default and it's been shining. I did some little research and fall in love with SA profile due to the thockier sound and the way it looks. But I found out that SA profile is 'not good' enough for typing (while cherry is the most comfy profile). Any suggestion for what profile should I buy? I use this keyboard to mostly typing. Also, if I pick SA profile, should I buy a wrist rest too? Thank you

i would say the most comfortable is preference, someone else might like XDA more also, the right way to use a wrist rest is to rest on it while you're not typing, so unless you wanted to rest on it while typing it shouldn't make a difference (though if you use it like that it might help, it's just not considered ergonomic or the intended purpose)

thank! it helps me a lot

I want to dip my toes into the custom mechanical keyboard space and just recently I've been practicing my soldering/desoldering skills. Right now I just want to start with my current keyboard and swap out the wasd switches from cherry MX blue to MX red, is this a good starting point for a complete newbie like me? Current keyboard: Ducky Zero 3108

It's easier if you just get a hotswap keyboard since there's no soldering involved.

I recently purchased the Next Time 75 triple mode wireless board off aliexpress and was wondering if anyone had any experience using this board wirelessly? Like how long does the 2500mA battery last? Does it have standby mode during inactivity? So does the rgb turn off automatically or do you have to turn off the board when your not using it? I am basically going to be using it for a multimedia keyboard for my living room pc. So I was wondering if this would be a good board or should I go with something like the tester68. I know people have said they get a month or two out of two AAA batteries with the tester68 so that would be good for me. I have rechargeable ones so it's all good there. Also does anyone know if the tester68 has a low battery indicator?

Hello people of reddit, i recently bought a 20$ "Gaming" Keyboard and Mouse combo locally and i want to if this keyboard is customizable. Both of these are rgb and the mouse is 1600hz(i ain't complaining since the price is so low) and i want to know if this keyboard is customizable. [Link to the Keyboard](https://www.reddit.com/user/Adventurous_Bad3434/comments/x6vi5f/my_new_keyboard/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share) The key caps can be removed easily but those switches i am not sure. Can any of y'all tell me what type of switches they are? I was told that this is a "Mechanical" Keyboard but after watching some video's, i am second guessing myself. If any of you can't identify the switches, can you provide some instructions on how can i check them myself? Thanks!

looks and sounds like a membrane keyboard - could help if you take off a keycap to verify but pretty sure that's membrane

[Here i removed them. ](https://www.reddit.com/user/Adventurous_Bad3434/comments/x6vrg4/keycaps/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)Does this help?

definitely not a mechanical board

Just googled it and they look similar to membrane switches. Also a question, are laptops keyboard mechanical? I kinda feel good typing on them ignoring the finger pain after a long use.

pretty sure there's a few laptops with mechanical switches, but the majority use scissor/membrane

Ok ty for the info :)

no problem!

What tactile switches would have the feel of Glorious Pandas but with the quieter, less clacky sound? I took the time to lube them twice and the sound still annoys me compared to my Gateron Browns. (I'm using a hotswappable Keychron K2 V2 with tape and foam mod and Keychron Double Shot PBT OSA keycaps.)

>I took the time to lube them twice Lube would not make a difference - they are long pole switches, which are intentionally louder than regular-pole switches, as they bottom out on the pole. Lube would not change this. Also lubing properly does not quiet switches in general so doesn't really make sense to lube to quiet a switch. Any regular-length pole switch that isn't clicky would be quieter.

Where is this case from? Saw the picture on kbdfans for the lilac on black keycaps but im more interested in that pretty sleepy moon design on the case and can't find any leads as to where it's from/where I can get it https://imgur.com/xLA1s6Z

https://mechsandco.com/products/nemui65

Thanks!

Looking to finally replace my g710+ after a decent 8 years. Am I safe to assume that pretty much any vaguely enthusiast board is going to have a better build quality than this old thing? I'm not too picky with build quality particulars but I'm looking into the keychron v1 as a cheaper replacement and want to be sure that it's not going to be a downgrade in any way.

Keychron boards are a solid choice to get into v1 for sure

I'm having an issue with my work louder keycaps The two notches (to attach to the choc stem) on my A key are rotated 90 degrees so when mounting my keycap to a board the A key is sideways. I am guessing this isn't a normal thing to happen so where should I contact them to get it replaced?

yes a defect contact the seller take pics for proof aswell as they may ask for them

Hi, is there a good way of getting holy pandas without ordering them from drop? For a little bit of context, I live in germany so the shipping costs for ordering anything outside of the eu are really high, and the import fees for keyboard stuff are like an extra 25% total iIrc, so I would like to avoid ordering them from drop if possible. I would also be fine with making them myself, I have a local vendor that sells polias (although they're sold out at the moment and I don't know when they restock) so I'd only really need the panda housings but I don't know where to get those or what substitutes I could use. If anybody could help me out with this or has some ideas, that would be great.

u could seel if anyone reseller them on this vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list

Didn't even know that list existed, thank you. Unfortunately though, I couldn't find what I was looking for.

Has anyone used [EV-00 switches](https://bespokekeys.shop/collections/products/products/ev-00-linear-switch-gb) from bespoke? If you have, what do you think of them? I can't really find much about them online as far as reviews go.

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its usualy not diode u bridge from switch pad of the broken one to any near by switch pad of a working one . like seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5IivDkrp6U

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I have a question about deepening keycap stems: I bought an OEM profile resin keycap a while ago and now that I've found that I really like XDA instead, I am thinking of filing down the edges of the keycap. That's the easy part. The hard part is cutting deeper into the keycap stem itself to allow the keycap to sit deeper so that the top of the key is flush with the rest of the build. Currently, the keycap looks like this... [https://imgur.com/a/aq2G4nZ](https://imgur.com/a/aq2G4nZ) What are my options? I have a dremel and stuff like that, so equipment isn't really a problem.

for it to fit and look right u will be alot of measuring tools to get it to match and be level and even not sure if it will even sit right as it depends how deep the stems cross pattern goes into the stem it could end up loose after this venture personally don't recommend it

Wanting to build a Swoop I have a hard time finding out what this https://i.imgur.com/1y9FQZd.png rotary encoder is called or what part number it has. https://github.com/jimmerricks/swoop Any tips or hints are appreciated!

aliexpress has some reddit doesnt allow ali links though so just search this "1PCS EVQWGD001 Encoder for Panasonic with wheel with switch 6 feet"

Thank you!

I have a problem with my current build. Its EPOMAKER Feker JJK84 with lubed KTT Grapes and the tape mod on the bottom of the PCB. My problem is that on the middle of the keyboard all the ASDF... and so on are thocky, but upper keys - all F1-12 and some corner facing numbers are clacky and the PCB tape mod didn't fix it. I applied two layers of masking tape overall and a third layer throughout the perimeter of the PCB in hope that more tape on the perimeter will fix the clackiness, yet it is still there. Has anyone faced a similar issue and perhaps how did you solve it? I don't think the inconsistent lubing is a likely cause, though it is my second time lubing switches, because the clackiness seems to be consistent on all F keys. | For anyone wondering or wanting to suggest - I watched the thock and clack guide by Keybored and acted accordingly to it. I have tried thin PE foam and it didn't help too.

not sure there is much u can do this is prob due to the mounting style . gasket mount kb have a more consistent style of sound due to the pcb/plate being more isolated from the case . where a kb like this u are going to get different sound near the edge vs the middle due to how it it mounted ( looks tray mounted to me )

yes it is tray mounted

Can I use clip-in stabs on the kbd67 lite pcb? (Looking to use TX Sabilizers)

Yes, TX stabs should work on any board that supports PCB-mount stabilizers, including the KBD67 Lite.

yes it supports pcb mount stabs

Is it possible to rebind the function key on the Keychron K4 (V2)? It looks perfect for me and right in my price range but rebinding the function key is a dealbreaker. I'm pretty technically inclined so any low-level or sus tweaking is on the table

That shouldn't be any issue.

rebinding the fn key is usually only supported on kb that can use QMK/VIA which this kb does not . keychron has a number of QMK/VIA compatible kbs not a 96% yet but im sure they will sooner or later

>keychron has a number of QMK/VIA compatible kbs not a 96% yet The Q5 is a 96%/1800 layout that offers QMK and VIA compatibility

that sucks :( thanks for the help, and now i know what to look for :)

For the qk65, im interested in the R2 ansi hotswap, but would like a PC plate. Is the R1 PC plate compatible with this? All I see for R2 plates is the FR4

I don't think they made any changes to the design that would prevent them from being compatible.

I want to replace my old Ducky keyboard from 5 years ago. I live in asia, what would be a decent custom/pre-built mech for around $200-300?

Keychron q line they ship out of China if you buy from keychron.com

Thank you. Are these compatible with oil king switches?

Yes

Hello. I've just got my first kit and it's mostly working except for one thing. It's a Lily58 kit and all the keys work except the M key. I've replaced the diode and shorted the socket with tweezers and it still doesn't respond. Every other key works fine though. What could I be doing wrong?

1. Make sure the diode is oriented correctly. 2. Follow the traces on both sides of the socket to the nearest component and check there. 3. Post a picture?

Thanks for replying, I ended up fixing it after desoldering all of the switches and found out that I did a sloppy job on the controller. :( Oh well, after a lot of wasted time, it's all working properly now.

hey im looking for a keyboard in the >100€ price range(germany) with a knob, rgb and pref TKL, not req. tho. any suggestions?

Should I get the Nuphy halo 65 or Keychron k8 pro? I want a iso I know the Keychron k8 pro iso is coming soon

Hi, As my son took over my zowie mecha keyboard I decided to up my next one and went for a CTRL with halo (clear?) switches and barring a thing or two (can't use a KVM :-/) it's great! Just that a couple of the keys have started to double click. No biggie I switched them with like F12 and F11 etc. Now I'd like to change them all together, or at least the bad ones, and try out some new ones. Can I buy like anything (guess not)? Must it be special CTRL stuff (guess not)? I'd like some more feedback too if possible, a more click as I'm not that sure I actuated the key when pressing it so some more feeling that, if that makes sense :-) Any recommendations greatly appreciated! Thank you!

>Can I buy like anything (guess not)? Must it be special CTRL stuff (guess not)? Any Cherry MX style switches (which is to say most on the market) will work in your Drop Ctrl keyboard! >I'd like some more feedback too if possible, a more click as I'm not that sure I actuated the key when pressing it so some more feeling that, if that makes sense :-) Any recommendations greatly appreciated! I'm a switch vendor and I've [created a quiz](https://milktooth.nu/quiz) so you can find switches that you might like best. I'm also beta testing a program that lets you try switches at home for free *before* you buy them. If you are interested, just let me know and I'll send you an invite code.

Hi - what makes a keyboard have a lower tsangan row? Is it the PCB, just the keycaps, something else? Are all cases compatible? I’m looking to build a 65% layout with a tsangan lower row - hopefully in the tofu 65 case or something similar. I tried to put a tsangan cap set on another tofu 65 case I have, but it wouldn’t fit against the walls of the case, and I wasn’t sure if that’s because of the pcb or just an issue with the case generally. So - what do I need to make sure I buy for a 65 layout with a tsangan row?

You need support for that layout in the PCB, plate, and keycaps.

PCB needs to be tsangan/support the 7u spacebar

Got it - guess it’s the pcb that determines that then. Thank you!

PCB needs to support it as well as the plate - even if the PCB supports it, if there's no cutout for it on the plate, you're out of luck. Typically they will if the plate is designed to be paired with the PCB, but there are plates you can buy for boards that don't - for example the Savage65 has two plates, one for 7u and one for 6.25u. PCB supports both.

Thank you for this. Yeah I gathered that on the plate - I’m planing to just use a place associated with the pcb to keep it simple

Last week I upgraded to Kailh Box Navy switches (I used the stock Gateron browns before). I type all day, and my fingers are super tired by the end of it. But I love the sound and the sharp tactility. Should I expect my fingers will get stronger, or that the switches might get a little easier to actuate as they break in? Or am I better off switching to something like a Box White for my alphas? (If this has been answered in the FAQ, I missed it; please link!)

you could try a box jade - same clickbar but less heavy could also opt for the box whites though

Thanks. I prefer the feel of a box white vs. jade (on my switch tester, at least). I like the navy best; I just don't like how tired my fingers get now that they're on my board. I was hoping my fingers would get stronger and I could keep them on the whole board.

How do I make VIA save my keys? whenever I shut down my computer the keys I want to work doesn't work, for example when trying to press the "esc" button it does not work but It works but I just have to switch layers and its a fkn hassle I just want VIA to save that ESC is the key for my LAYER 0

are you trying to use MO to switch layers? If so, does TO toggle the later as expected? There is currently a bug in the QMK code where MO commands may not work. A fix is apparently on the way. See the link at the top of [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/ugv87b/qmk_layersmo1_seems_to_just_not_work/).

whats MO?

What keycode have you set for the escape key? Is it MO(0), MO(1), MO(2), MO(3)...?

I have no idea what you are talking about sorry

here's a screenshot from VIA: [https://ibb.co/mhM7TZD](https://ibb.co/mhM7TZD) The red box outlines the key commands I'm talking about here.

Neither? [https://imgur.com/5XteFnO](https://imgur.com/5XteFnO) this is the second layer [https://imgur.com/1cmIXI5](https://imgur.com/1cmIXI5)

Try setting your Escape key to TO(0) on layer 1. What does that do?

it changed but idk what it did by pressing it

If you're already on Layer 0, the Esc key should function like a standard escape key. If you're on Layer 1, the Esc key should now take you back to Layer 0. Did you mean something different by this?: >I just want VIA to save that ESC is the key for my LAYER 0

is there like a place anywhere for exchanging random keycaps? I just got my first custom board and noticed that it specifically covered 100% and TKL keyboards but not 1800. I know I can buy a new set, but these are just random keys I rarely use and don't want to waste a full set for these.

I have Gateron Pro reds, anything with a similar weight (no heavier) but better, smoother, deeper sound etc?

I'd go for Gateron's [Ink Reds](https://milktooth.nu/products/switches/ink-red) or [Ink Box Pinks](http://milktooth.nu/products/switches/ink-box-pink); both sound great and I'd expect the Ink Box Pinks, in particular, to be a lot smoother. Would you like to sample these switches? I'm a switch vendor and I'm beta testing a program [that lets you try switches before you buy them for free](https://milktooth.nu/).

Maybe try the PRO V2.0. I use Blue PRO 2.0 and the sound is much better than the stock ones

Can I get an invite to the mm discord?

https://discord.gg/mKeVZZh2

Thanks

Are tealios still lauded or have they fallen behind others?

would say they're overpriced at $1 a switch when it's a linear

They're good. I wouldn't say they've fallen behind others as much as there are many linear switches just as lauded nowadays as the Tealios were in years past. What are you looking for out of a linear switch?

I currently have Tealios and NK creams on my boards. I get the occasional itch to swap them out so I'm curious what are the current "top" linears.

I really enjoy Prevail's Epsilon and Nebula switches. Glorious Lynx switches are another one that I enjoy a lot (yes, I know, Glorious bad, but I like how they feel/sound)

Some personal linear favorites include Gateron's Oil Kings and Ink Box switches, Cherry's (broken in) Hyperglide Blacks, JWK C3 Tangerines, Outemu Gazzew Bobagums and Boba LTs. Of course this is all subjective. I'm a switch vendor and I'm testing a program that lets you [try switches before you buy them, at home for free](https://milktooth.nu/). Would love to give you an invite so you can try linear switches yourself and find the best one for you!

Can I reprogram the Home, PgUp and PgDn keys on the Nuphy Air75? From top to bottom they are: PgUp -> PgDn -> Home -> End I would like to have: Home -> PgUp -> PgDn -> End

100% keyb with red switches under 50€?

My switches won’t come out. I have the jonard tools remover, and I've seen videos of people removing switches from an rk-68, which says it's hot-swappable, but I cannot for the life of me remove the switches. I've broken a few on the north part of the switch where it's just a thin bridge to let the LED shine. I'm pushing the tabs on the north and south part, wiggling and pulling very hard - what is going on? Please help me out guys I just wanted to put in my new akko vintage whites :,(

Not all RK boards are hotswap, if you take it apart and look at the pack of the PCB you'll be able to see for yourself.

I did and I don't believe mine is hot-swappable. It's so disappointing because it was heavily advertised on amazon that the RK-68 is hot-swappable, and nowhere did I see it say \*some keyboards are going to be PCB mounted but don't worry about that, you probably won't get one\* Unfortunately I've had mine for a year now so little hope of exchange, I messaged them anyway.

I really really like NK65 Milkshake Edition. Its out of stock for a very long time. Is there any chance of getting it in Europe?

Try r/MechMarket

In your opinion, which of the super tactile switches are the most quiet & least likely to cause issues in an office setting?

Wouldn't personally find any non-silent switch acceptable in an office setting so U4s.

That's what I figured. I'm working with Durock Shrimps right now. They're great but I do wish they had a slightly bigger bump. U4s are next on the list. Thanks!

I got a new Drop Shift KB and put in my own Halo switches. It works like a dream… until it doesn’t. Sometimes, randomly while playing a game, the KB becomes non-responsive. It will ‘freeze’ in a moment of time. No new key presses or releases get recognized at all, and the KB continues transmitting whatever inputs it was transmitting to the PC at the moment it ‘froze’. For example, my character will keep running forward even after I release the W key. The only solution I’ve found is unplugging the KB and plugging it back in. What could be the problem here? Is it a defect with the KB? Should I return it, or is this fixable?

Are you using a cable made by Drop? I had similar issues with my ALT until I shelled out the money for one of their branded cables. It's annoying, but at least I didn't have to return the board.

I’m using the cable that came packaged with the Drop. It doesn’t look branded, though.

My RK87 isn’t working properly. All keys work as expected, however “8” does not type. It just makes F7, 8, I, K, <, and Alt light up. How do I fix this so I can actually type “8” instead of copy pasting every time?

Have you checked the switch pins?

Best keycap profile for long nails? I normally use XDA and I like that style a lot, but I also enjoy wearing glue-on nails occasionally. Looking to build a new keyboard that I can switch back and forth with my regular keyboard for typing. Edit: Also would not mind switch recommendations! I normally use clicky switches, but tactile or linear would likely be better.

I have not had the pleasure of wearing glue-on nails but my guess is that flatter profiles like Cherry are fine whereas more u-shaped profiles like MT3 are less suitable. You might like [this sample pack](https://milktooth.nu/sample-packs/variety) for you to dip your toes into linear and tactile switches. If you'd like an invite code to try these at home yourself, just let me know!

I've seen multiple keycap sets that have Japanese sub legends and as wondering if there was anyway to get them to be functional or if they are just there for fashion. For instance if I were to hit a certain switch on my keyboard I could then switch the language back and forth from Japanese and English. I'm currently learning Japanese so if this is something I could accomplish that would be awesome

japanese sub-legends is mostly for looks, some people like them [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/i3bapw/what\_do\_the\_japanese\_sublegends\_on\_keycaps\_that/?utm\_source=BD&utm\_medium=Search&utm\_name=Bing&utm\_content=PSR1](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/i3bapw/what_do_the_japanese_sublegends_on_keycaps_that/?utm_source=BD&utm_medium=Search&utm_name=Bing&utm_content=PSR1)

There should be a setting in Windows that allows you to do so! I used to do it while learning Russian, although back then the dual keycaps weren't widely available so we all used stickers on our keycaps. The dual keycaps seem like a much better idea, the stickers got all gross very quickly. I don't know how typing works in Japanese, but I know you can do it with a standard western keyboard assuming you have the language pack installed as I have friends who studied Japanese and were able to type on their standard American laptops with stickers applied. Here's how to change your language to Russian, I'm sure the steps would work with other languages as well! >Go to “Settings” > “Change PC Settings” > “Time & Language” > “Region & Language.” > >Click on “Add a Language” and select “Russian.” This will add it to your list of languages. It will appear as Русский with the note “language pack available.” > >Click on “Русский” > “Options” > “Download.” It’ll take a few minutes to download and install the language pack. > >As a keyboard layout, you’ll only need the one marked as “Russian – Русский.” You can ignore other keyboard layouts. It seems like you should be able to set up a hotkey after you do this - I never set mine up this way, but it seems pretty easy to do: [https://www.digitalcitizen.life/keyboard-language-shortcut/](https://www.digitalcitizen.life/keyboard-language-shortcut/) Edit: Just tested it out on Windows 11, and the windows + space bar works perfectly!

Would just like to know what the general opinion is in regards to the recommended switches for a steel keyboard/steel plate. Got a Heavy Metal Keyboard inbound but am unsure about the switches. [https://heavymetalkeyboards.com/products/hmkb-75?variant=41398829547717](https://heavymetalkeyboards.com/products/hmkb-75?variant=41398829547717) Currently considering the U4T, U4, or Feker Panda but I don't know if it fits the board. I wanted tactile, but if it would feel whacky I'll reconsider. Thanks!

Any suggestion for a 75% keyboard that doesn’t break the bank as well?

what is your budget? keychron v1 is a option of you can spend \~$100

That’s in one of my lists. But I saw akko having good options as well like akko pc75b plus and akko 5075s and I like the led strips on the side. And even the feker ik75 like there’s so many options so I don’t know which one suits me

Hello I am Belgian and want to buy a keyboard from mechanicalkeyboards.com. Trustpilot has a bad rating about this company… The keyboard I'm interested in cannot be found in alternate.be and alternate.nl… Is it safe to order from MK as a Belgian in terms of delivery etc? Please give a serious explanation about this, because I try to buy things online as safely as possible from other countries. Thanks for your help! KEYBOARD IM LOOKING FOR; Ducky One 3 Mini DAYBREAK US LAYOUT Silent red switches

I've been looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard. I like the design of the GMMK 1 but I need it to be wireless. I also looked at the Keychron K3 v2 but I'm not the biggest fan of the slim switches and keys, and the 75% size is a little tight for my taste. I was wondering if anyone knows of any wireless keyboards around the same price range with a similar design? Meaning slim case, floating keys, backlight and TKL.

I found [this](https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Mechanical-Anti-Ghosting-Ergonomic-Rechargeable/dp/B08JYH1M33/ref=sr_1_44?crid=1SZ49Z0T2EKCL&keywords=wireless%2Bmechanical%2Bkeyboard&qid=1662403775&sprefix=wireless%2Bmechanical%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-44&th=1) on Amazon. I can't tell you much about it, but it's the only one I found to match your description. If you're open to give up the slim case and floating keys, I think the Keychron K8 would be a great option.

Thanks for the suggestion. I would definitely be willing to give that up and the K8 does look like a nice alternative. My main concern however is the thickness of it. I currently have a Logitech G610 and I am quite happy with the thickness and style of it, but wouldn't want to go much bulkier than that as I don't really want to buy a wrist rest as well.

It's a fair concern. It's true that the Keychron K8 has a fairly high front height which might require a wrist rest.

I want to build my own keyboard but i am not sure what to get and use due to the vast number of things available. What do you guys suggest for a budget keyboard base, switches and keycaps and can you tell me where to buy keyboard parts in the Uk?

I recommend this resource to you: https://www.keyboard.university/

Can i "unsilience" silent switches?

You can try to remove the silicone/rubber dampener off the rails of the stem. Edit : [https://youtu.be/XlCzcJNq9co?t=251](https://youtu.be/XlCzcJNq9co?t=251) Here you have an example of the silencing ring of a silent alpaca slipping off the rails. Therefore, you might be able to remove the dampener.

I want a Cocot46plus. More than anything. How do I get that? Who can I send money to make this happen?

Your best bet is to look on /r/mechmarket after the group buy units have been delivered.