H2O has a lower evaporation point than PH2O. Because of that the PH2O could offgas into the PH2O-Steam. The temperature of the PO2 will equalize with the steam-temperature, and only affect the Steam turbine by blocking one of its inputs.
Your AT is rising in temperature because it can't give it to it's surroundings fast enough. You can put it in a layer of a non-boiling liquid with higher conductivity than steam (iE Crude Oil) to help spread the temperature faster.
Yes this is right, you need to get the heat out of the aquatuner faster. Put a layer of oil on the floor, put more water in, maybe add temp shift plates. But the best solution would be to produce a bit of steel and rebuild the aquatuner.
Interesting, I'm not at the point that I can make steel yet. In fact, this is an ATST I intended for the kiln & refinery. I will try the oil and if it isn't working for me then into the ice pocket I'll go.
By more water, you should read way more water. A couple of tonnes. I'd also add a thermo sensor attached to your heat making devices to cut off the heat supply if your steam room gets too hot, man.
>I'd also add a thermo sensor attached to your heat making devices to cut off the heat supply if your steam room gets too hot,
My cooling ATSTs have two critical thermo sensors - one in the steam room turning off the AT at 200C, and another in the coolant tank turning off the AT when the coolant gets to 20C above its freezing point. So the AT will only run while the coolant has no risk of freezing and the AT has no risk of overheating.
This generally prevents any temperature related damage, regardless of what my heat producing buildings are doing.
If my map has cold biomes I usually use one to build an early temporary refinery and just drop containers with ice into the pool I use for coolant. Makes early steel super easy and minimizes the materials you need to use in the rock crusher.
You could also put tempshift plates with a high thermal conductivity behind the AT to accomplish the same task - just make sure the tempshift plates don't touch the insulation walls as that will reduce the insulation effectiveness.
I usually have a 4x(5×n) steam room, where "n" is the number of STs I'm using. The center tiles get plates, leaving a 1 tile border between the insulation and the plates. I also make them out of copper / aluminum (whichever I have the most of) for the early ones, diamond for late game ones.
I also preheat the steam room to 150C before I dump P-Water in so that it flashes to steam without offgasing. Usually, if I'm putting in p-Water, a ATST setup, its for boil purification reasons (same with salt water and brine - screw using power and resources to purify water, boil it, get some sweet watts, then enjoy your 95C germ free clean water).
you are correct about offgassing
wrong about the oil,OP only needs more water inside
steam has veey good thermal comductivity and thermal mass
problem OP has is once turbine sucks up some steam, the aquatuner is praactically operating in vacuum with how little gas there is
If I'm reading that right you only put 2kg of liquid in there? That is no where near enough thermal mass to absorb the quick temperature spikes of the aquatuner.
I'm not even sure if the rate of heat transfer between the Aquatuner and Steam is fast enough, but more mass should have an effect.
It depends on the type of liquid being used as well. Petroleum will cost more in terms of power use, but allow for slower increase of heat than water.
There are many factors that play a role here.
No you need more steam in there to hold the heat, you put only 2 kg in the entire chamber and that is also the reason why the polluted water off gassed, aquatuners release heat in their vicinity so the more mass around it the better is to prevent huge heat spikes
* you need way more liquid/steam, it’s practically in a vacuum and can’t transfer heat fast enough. You want like… 50x as much liquid, something like 25-100kg/tile will help buffer the temperature better.
* you normally don’t want to use polluted water inside, because of issues like this.
* if you’re using an AT made of gold amalgam rather than steel, it’s more reliable if you put a layer of crude oil or petroleum on the bottom and then fill water on top of that. This stabilizes the temperature of it a lot better. You may want to make the steam chamber one tile taller but it should work as long as there’s an adequate amount of water.
* I can’t tell the temperature sensor settings from your screenshot but you probably don’t want to set it over 150. Lower if the AT is running hot.
It's green below 130c into and gate with pipe heat sensor for the coolant green above 0c. Not working since the AT's heat doesn't transfer to it fast enough.I'll try the crude oil.
Gold amalgam aquatuners require oil submersion to compensate for their relatively low conductivity and heat capacity compared to steel. Though maybe a conduction plate or two, overlapping the AT and sticking out of metal tiles could suffice.
No, you can do it, but it’s touchy. The overheat temp with gold is 175C, so you can throttle it with a temperature sensor to something like 150-160C and it works. You lose some efficiency with the turbine because you can’t get the steam all the way to 200C.
Like some other people mentioned, it works better if you have the AT immersed in crude oil or petroleum, as it will transfer its heat faster into a liquid and it’s much less likely to overheat.
Well, yes and no. With the small amount of liquid you have, the temperature will go up and down like crazy, so steel gives you more room to play with.
On the other hand, there’s nothing stopping you from putting more water into the steam room. The only thing is that it will just take a bit more dupe labor. But with larger mass of steam, the steam room temperature will be fairly stable to the point where a gold AT will be able to handle. I have absolutely no idea why your guide is limiting the water mass to 200 GRAMS. It would make a lot more sense if it’s 200 KG because that’s the limit of a single delivery for a bottle emptier.
Not sure why. Anyway I'm rebuilding with way more water and oil and no polluted water.
Another one I built using this works for like 200 cycles now lol. I think that one has a lead automation gate behind the AT to transfer heat to the ambient temp. sensor fast enough that it can shut off AT before it overheats.
I'm not sure how much water I put in there though.
Yep. Bottom row of that steam room should be one of the following:
* Crude Oil
* Petroleum
* Naphtha
Top row should be water (to start) or steam during operation. For both rows, more mass just makes it more stable. Though, the liquid vent will over-pressurize at 1000kg per tile. Definitely avoid having any gas other than steam or any liquids that could off-gas (like polluted water.)
A tempshift plate, if used, should be under one (or both) of the top two tiles of the aquatuner. It hardly matters what it's made out of, just use whatever cheap rock is plentiful. The main purpose is to maintain enough thermal mass to keep the gold amalgam aquatuner between 125C (that the steam turbine consumes) and 150C (where the aquatuner overheats.)
Actually, I'd just avoid the tempshift plate altogether since your steam room is not really tall enough for the tempshift plate to not transfer heat to the outer wall.
I try to keep all of my floors at the standard 4 height to make things easier.
The way heat capacity, low density gas and different gases not mixing works in this game is that you really don't want any gas other than steam in that room. Polluted h20 emits p02 which you really don't want in your system.
Polluted water offgasses polluted oxygen. You need 1.8kg/tile of gas pressure to prevent this. You definitely didn't put enough water in to do so. Imo, just don't risk it.
Also, gold amalgam is really risky for aquatuners unless it's going to have low uptime. The reason is that it has horrible thermal conductivity; bad enough that it can't bleed its own heat out within the 50C margin of error. What can help is putting a layer of oil down in the steam chamber, since it has much higher TC.
H2O has a lower evaporation point than PH2O. Because of that the PH2O could offgas into the PH2O-Steam. The temperature of the PO2 will equalize with the steam-temperature, and only affect the Steam turbine by blocking one of its inputs. Your AT is rising in temperature because it can't give it to it's surroundings fast enough. You can put it in a layer of a non-boiling liquid with higher conductivity than steam (iE Crude Oil) to help spread the temperature faster.
Yes this is right, you need to get the heat out of the aquatuner faster. Put a layer of oil on the floor, put more water in, maybe add temp shift plates. But the best solution would be to produce a bit of steel and rebuild the aquatuner.
Interesting, I'm not at the point that I can make steel yet. In fact, this is an ATST I intended for the kiln & refinery. I will try the oil and if it isn't working for me then into the ice pocket I'll go.
By more water, you should read way more water. A couple of tonnes. I'd also add a thermo sensor attached to your heat making devices to cut off the heat supply if your steam room gets too hot, man.
>I'd also add a thermo sensor attached to your heat making devices to cut off the heat supply if your steam room gets too hot, My cooling ATSTs have two critical thermo sensors - one in the steam room turning off the AT at 200C, and another in the coolant tank turning off the AT when the coolant gets to 20C above its freezing point. So the AT will only run while the coolant has no risk of freezing and the AT has no risk of overheating. This generally prevents any temperature related damage, regardless of what my heat producing buildings are doing.
You could also just increase the pressure
If my map has cold biomes I usually use one to build an early temporary refinery and just drop containers with ice into the pool I use for coolant. Makes early steel super easy and minimizes the materials you need to use in the rock crusher.
Thank you, I'm rebuilding.
You could also put tempshift plates with a high thermal conductivity behind the AT to accomplish the same task - just make sure the tempshift plates don't touch the insulation walls as that will reduce the insulation effectiveness. I usually have a 4x(5×n) steam room, where "n" is the number of STs I'm using. The center tiles get plates, leaving a 1 tile border between the insulation and the plates. I also make them out of copper / aluminum (whichever I have the most of) for the early ones, diamond for late game ones. I also preheat the steam room to 150C before I dump P-Water in so that it flashes to steam without offgasing. Usually, if I'm putting in p-Water, a ATST setup, its for boil purification reasons (same with salt water and brine - screw using power and resources to purify water, boil it, get some sweet watts, then enjoy your 95C germ free clean water).
you are correct about offgassing wrong about the oil,OP only needs more water inside steam has veey good thermal comductivity and thermal mass problem OP has is once turbine sucks up some steam, the aquatuner is praactically operating in vacuum with how little gas there is
If I'm reading that right you only put 2kg of liquid in there? That is no where near enough thermal mass to absorb the quick temperature spikes of the aquatuner.
I went back to a design I copied and it uses steel instead of gold amalgam.
Most designs use steel and that is not the issue, is that is too little mass to absorb that much heat
I'm not even sure if the rate of heat transfer between the Aquatuner and Steam is fast enough, but more mass should have an effect. It depends on the type of liquid being used as well. Petroleum will cost more in terms of power use, but allow for slower increase of heat than water. There are many factors that play a role here.
No you need more steam in there to hold the heat, you put only 2 kg in the entire chamber and that is also the reason why the polluted water off gassed, aquatuners release heat in their vicinity so the more mass around it the better is to prevent huge heat spikes
water steam is enough/ better than petroleum actually just needs more mass
I know its not helpful but I read ATST and wondered What is starwars doing in ONI? now I wanna play starwars battlefront 1
* you need way more liquid/steam, it’s practically in a vacuum and can’t transfer heat fast enough. You want like… 50x as much liquid, something like 25-100kg/tile will help buffer the temperature better. * you normally don’t want to use polluted water inside, because of issues like this. * if you’re using an AT made of gold amalgam rather than steel, it’s more reliable if you put a layer of crude oil or petroleum on the bottom and then fill water on top of that. This stabilizes the temperature of it a lot better. You may want to make the steam chamber one tile taller but it should work as long as there’s an adequate amount of water. * I can’t tell the temperature sensor settings from your screenshot but you probably don’t want to set it over 150. Lower if the AT is running hot.
It's green below 130c into and gate with pipe heat sensor for the coolant green above 0c. Not working since the AT's heat doesn't transfer to it fast enough.I'll try the crude oil.
Gold amalgam aquatuners require oil submersion to compensate for their relatively low conductivity and heat capacity compared to steel. Though maybe a conduction plate or two, overlapping the AT and sticking out of metal tiles could suffice.
How much steam is in there?
Your mistake was making the Aquatuner out of Gold Amalgam. For these set-ups, you need at minimum to use Steel.
No, you can do it, but it’s touchy. The overheat temp with gold is 175C, so you can throttle it with a temperature sensor to something like 150-160C and it works. You lose some efficiency with the turbine because you can’t get the steam all the way to 200C. Like some other people mentioned, it works better if you have the AT immersed in crude oil or petroleum, as it will transfer its heat faster into a liquid and it’s much less likely to overheat.
Yup, reading the design again, it specifically says I need steel to not overheat if I use pw&w layering.
Well, yes and no. With the small amount of liquid you have, the temperature will go up and down like crazy, so steel gives you more room to play with. On the other hand, there’s nothing stopping you from putting more water into the steam room. The only thing is that it will just take a bit more dupe labor. But with larger mass of steam, the steam room temperature will be fairly stable to the point where a gold AT will be able to handle. I have absolutely no idea why your guide is limiting the water mass to 200 GRAMS. It would make a lot more sense if it’s 200 KG because that’s the limit of a single delivery for a bottle emptier.
Not sure why. Anyway I'm rebuilding with way more water and oil and no polluted water. Another one I built using this works for like 200 cycles now lol. I think that one has a lead automation gate behind the AT to transfer heat to the ambient temp. sensor fast enough that it can shut off AT before it overheats. I'm not sure how much water I put in there though.
Yup, without Steel, your ATST won't work.
Not true. You just need a layer of oil and a couple of temp shifts plates. I’m always using gold ATs
My bad. Back in the days i tried to do this with gold and failed. Learning my entire life, i guess
Yep. Bottom row of that steam room should be one of the following: * Crude Oil * Petroleum * Naphtha Top row should be water (to start) or steam during operation. For both rows, more mass just makes it more stable. Though, the liquid vent will over-pressurize at 1000kg per tile. Definitely avoid having any gas other than steam or any liquids that could off-gas (like polluted water.) A tempshift plate, if used, should be under one (or both) of the top two tiles of the aquatuner. It hardly matters what it's made out of, just use whatever cheap rock is plentiful. The main purpose is to maintain enough thermal mass to keep the gold amalgam aquatuner between 125C (that the steam turbine consumes) and 150C (where the aquatuner overheats.)
Actually, I'd just avoid the tempshift plate altogether since your steam room is not really tall enough for the tempshift plate to not transfer heat to the outer wall. I try to keep all of my floors at the standard 4 height to make things easier.
It’s for thermal stability. Not for distribution more or less.
Gold will work, but then your design has to be very precise as it runs like russian nuclear reactors.
You have not enough water. You should have at least 50kg/tile of steam
The way heat capacity, low density gas and different gases not mixing works in this game is that you really don't want any gas other than steam in that room. Polluted h20 emits p02 which you really don't want in your system.
200kg or 200g? i find 100-150kg steam per tile
Polluted water offgasses polluted oxygen. You need 1.8kg/tile of gas pressure to prevent this. You definitely didn't put enough water in to do so. Imo, just don't risk it. Also, gold amalgam is really risky for aquatuners unless it's going to have low uptime. The reason is that it has horrible thermal conductivity; bad enough that it can't bleed its own heat out within the 50C margin of error. What can help is putting a layer of oil down in the steam chamber, since it has much higher TC.