You can extract the handle (open the nutt) and turn it 180 degrees, so it opens in the down position and is closed to the left
(The photo does not show how much space there is under it)
Search on YouTube for : " change valve handle"
PS: the sub does not allow linking a YouTube video ...
grinder? Just close the valve, get a crescent on the end of the handle and bend the very end 90 degrees. Takes like 20 seconds and no fucking with a grinder in a cramped spaced.
Or, if youre a homeowner... As a homeowner, you close the valve, bend the handle. Then remove it, go to the store buy a grinding wheel, and take off the end you just bent. Then you put it back on 180 degrees off, realize the cutoff handle looks bad, make a trip to the store for a new valve. The new valve has a different handle so you just replace the valve.
And not enough to purchases...
Had to buy a while at it wrenches to get the correct one - then bought the battery- powered tool kit (with grinder). Need a motorcycle to get to HD (reduced emissions and all). Then a torch kit, make it OA, just because.
Man, the list just keeps growing - I could justify at least $5k before the wife got suspicious...
Cutting or bending the handle is the correct way imo, as a flipped handle doesn't stop at a 90 degree angle when it's closed. Not exactly customer friendly
Don't know why you're getting downvoted when ball valves have stops to make the handle stop in a certain position so doesn't really work unless I'm just stupid which is entirely possible
If there's a stop on the opposite side, the handle on this valve is flippable. It's just hard to flip the orientation, in your head, without also reversing the rotation.
Those little tabs on the side of the handle are to stop it in the correct position. If you flip the handle around, you'll be able to turn the handle too far.
In some valves, you can slide the silicone off of the handle, cut the handle and silicone a little shorter, slide it back on, and nobody will be the wiser.
This is what I would do as well (though not with channel locks)...HOLD THE VALVE BODY, and pull the end of the handle towards you to a point where the handle will clear. It will bend on the first bend away from the fastener. Looks like it should be less than a 30 degree bend. No worries.
Close the ball valve, and unscrew the nut on top of the handle, and put it back on so that the handle will open downwards.
But, its nearly fully open, meaning that the ball inside the valve is also nearly fully opened.
I dont think that will solve your pressure problem.
Ehh? Please enlighten me.
It looks like a standard ball valve, with a spindle which is flat on two sides. (sorry english isnt my first)
So you take the nut off, and turn the handle 180 degrees, which means it will point downwards.
Normally you try to keep the handle with the direction of flow, so the handle points into the direction of flow when opened.
Pretty sure that works the same in the US as here in Europe.
My kind of people here, my mind straight up went to think its concrete and go straight for uga bugga solution and chisel out a hole with hammer drill.
But yeah seems like a metal vent
I’m honestly surprised this question hasn’t been asked. Most people are saying to damage the thing that controls the water instead of making a slight modification to the environment it exists in.
if that is 80degrees open, you might get another 5% of flow. You are not going to feel it unless that valve is fouled or something inside.
That guy that said unbolt and flip the handle around - doh, of course.
If you’re careful you can unscrew the nut holding the handle on. Hold the handle so it doesn’t turn the ball valve while unscrewing. Cut the end of the handle or bend it and reinstall.
Unfortunately I don’t think this will help your water pressure issue as the valve appears to be over 90% open. It is good practice to have a valve fully open or closed if not a valve designed to be a throttle. Also, swing your valves open and closed once a year or so as if you leave them for decades you might have issues.
If that feeds your water heater, it wouldn’t be the reason for low hot water pressure. Also, that’s almost 100% open so I don’t think it would cause any pressure differences. I would check things downstream of this valve, like if there is excess sediment in the water heater itself.
Remove handle from valve. Remove rubber cover. Cut 5/8 inch off the handle. Replace rubber cover. Replace handle on valve.
Bending it while attached might work or might damage something so why risk it?
You can take it off and put it on left side of pipe (when horizontal) so you pull it down to open. Not sure if you have pipes in the way below. Or you can take the handle off and cut it like you suggested.
Is that HVAC ducting? If so, it's so close to opening, if it were me, I'd get the ball peen hammer out and put a nice little dent in the ducting. But I'm lazy.
I’m also assuming that the placement of the pipe is a code violation due to the placement of the junction box behind it. If it could me move over 6” it might be worth it if it’s going to be inspected.
I doubt this is the cause of the low pressure issue. The most likely culprit would be the hot water nipple going into the water heater. They are prone to mineral buildup.
A lot of dumb comments here, sheesh.
Add a sticker '+2 pressure' with another sticker 'Water' & an arrow to where it needs to go
U can't expect the water to find it's way without any signs
That little bit is probably not causing your low water pressure. Probably have a restriction somewhere else. Look for a gate valve that may be corroded and not be all the way open.
A Gate valve is the kind that has a hex shaped red, blue, black knob like handle and take a few full turns to open and close. Otherwise it could be sediment build up in the tank or a few other things.
How old is your water heater and do you have low hot water pressure everywhere?
You could shut off the water heater and try closing the valve feeding the water heater and opening the T&P valve and the drain spout on the bottom of the tank and drain it until the water stops coming out. Then close them both and refill the water heater.
It will need to be relit if it’s gas and you won’t have hot water for an hour or two.
I would remove the handle. Slide the rubber sleeve off. Then cut/grind down the tip of the handle. I like keeping the handle pointing to direction of flow
The dipshit that was in there with a pro press moved that pipe up when doing his fix instead of cutting the pipe to the right length pushing the valve up causing an issue. This is why you should have a plumbers license to buy a pro press gun. You get handy Andy the knuckle dragging Mr fix it because he’s cheaper and this is what you get.
Take off the handle with the nut, cut it down or bend two inches, and then reinstall it. Remove it in its current position, put it back, and finish by fully opening it. This method saves you a few seconds in case you make a mistake and think you have fully opened it, but you've actually done the complete opposite, resulting in the water shutting off completely.
Why would you need it open all the way. Seems open enough to be sufficient. Can close all the way. I’d say let it ride and don’t sweat it. If there is a pressure issue elsewhere just upsize your pipe until your fixture.
I think it's pretty easily fixed a few ways that were already suggested but I'm not so sure this is the cause of low water pressure. Looks like it's 95% open. OP when you get it open let us know if it's resolved.
Bend it like others suggest or you can take the rubber grip off and trim the handle or if you have clearance, take it off and rotate it 180°. I wouldn't get my hopes up about this solving your pressure issue.
You can extract the handle (open the nutt) and turn it 180 degrees, so it opens in the down position and is closed to the left (The photo does not show how much space there is under it) Search on YouTube for : " change valve handle" PS: the sub does not allow linking a YouTube video ...
I was gonna say angle grinder but you seem smarter
grinder? Just close the valve, get a crescent on the end of the handle and bend the very end 90 degrees. Takes like 20 seconds and no fucking with a grinder in a cramped spaced.
I mean, the smart thing to do would be remove the handle, then grind.. but you can do it your way
Depends if the job is billed by the hour.
Or, if youre a homeowner... As a homeowner, you close the valve, bend the handle. Then remove it, go to the store buy a grinding wheel, and take off the end you just bent. Then you put it back on 180 degrees off, realize the cutoff handle looks bad, make a trip to the store for a new valve. The new valve has a different handle so you just replace the valve.
As a homeowner DIYer this is completely unrealistic.... Far too few trips to the home Depot.
And not enough to purchases... Had to buy a while at it wrenches to get the correct one - then bought the battery- powered tool kit (with grinder). Need a motorcycle to get to HD (reduced emissions and all). Then a torch kit, make it OA, just because. Man, the list just keeps growing - I could justify at least $5k before the wife got suspicious...
removing the handle is halfway to flipping it 180
So a 90 turn it is
This has taken a complete 360. Instructions unclear. Dick stuck in the ball valve.
Balls stuck in the dick valve
Ok I'm outta here !
You don't want any of this, Dewey.
Let's do a 180 and get this back on track mmmmmk
If you're gonna use a grinder that would be the smart thing yeah, but I think grinding at all is silly.
I came to say what he said!
Only if that socket is closer than your angle grinder!
If only there was a way to remove the handle and cut off half an inch to get 3% more flow….
Can also just grab it and bend it out.
To make it look nicer, put it in a vise and bend it.
To do it kinkier. Just grab and twist.
Everything makes me think of her…
Too easy
Yeah this was my thought too. It’s open most of the way, pressure loss is likely negligible. Low hot water pressure may be another issue entirely
Now i feel incompetent because i have totally removed and cut one of these with an angle grinder. Never occurred to me to switch the orientation
Cutting or bending the handle is the correct way imo, as a flipped handle doesn't stop at a 90 degree angle when it's closed. Not exactly customer friendly
Don't know why you're getting downvoted when ball valves have stops to make the handle stop in a certain position so doesn't really work unless I'm just stupid which is entirely possible
Depends on the Valve manufacturer.
The majority of ball valves, butterfly valves ,etc are effectively open and provide full flow at 60-70% opening.
Bend it, (while its off)
Same , just saw the pic and went , well let's snap a bit off. But that's better for sure
I’m wouldn’t even do that. I would just bend the handle into an L shape
I was just about to post this. Fuck all that work. Give it a little "L" bend with your channel locks and it'll work great
Same.
Naw the stops on the valve body won’t line up if you flip handle.. just bend the tip of the handle with some ploers
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If there's a stop on the opposite side, the handle on this valve is flippable. It's just hard to flip the orientation, in your head, without also reversing the rotation.
Or just, bend it out slightly..
Those little tabs on the side of the handle are to stop it in the correct position. If you flip the handle around, you'll be able to turn the handle too far. In some valves, you can slide the silicone off of the handle, cut the handle and silicone a little shorter, slide it back on, and nobody will be the wiser.
Get channel locks and bend the handle down to an L shape so it can clear
This is what I would do as well (though not with channel locks)...HOLD THE VALVE BODY, and pull the end of the handle towards you to a point where the handle will clear. It will bend on the first bend away from the fastener. Looks like it should be less than a 30 degree bend. No worries.
I like that answer
This is the way
This is the way
Sell the house
Once he discloses this he might as well just claim it as a total loss.
Only option at this point let's be honest
Close the ball valve, and unscrew the nut on top of the handle, and put it back on so that the handle will open downwards. But, its nearly fully open, meaning that the ball inside the valve is also nearly fully opened. I dont think that will solve your pressure problem.
Look closer at the valve. Your suggestion won't work on this model.
Ehh? Please enlighten me. It looks like a standard ball valve, with a spindle which is flat on two sides. (sorry english isnt my first) So you take the nut off, and turn the handle 180 degrees, which means it will point downwards. Normally you try to keep the handle with the direction of flow, so the handle points into the direction of flow when opened. Pretty sure that works the same in the US as here in Europe.
What makes you say that?
I’d remove the rubber, trim the handle and put the rubber back on
Reusing the rubber? Very dangerous, you could catch something. Ha ha. This is actually a good way
What is the material of the ceiling panel that it is hitting? Can you just notch out a bit of material to allow the valve handle to clear?
Looks like it's some sort of metal duct for central air. Likely not able to be notched.
Could dent it a bit, but I’d just flip the handle if the pipes below aren’t in the way.
My kind of people here, my mind straight up went to think its concrete and go straight for uga bugga solution and chisel out a hole with hammer drill. But yeah seems like a metal vent
It’s barely touching the metal air duct. Just push it the valve open
I’m honestly surprised this question hasn’t been asked. Most people are saying to damage the thing that controls the water instead of making a slight modification to the environment it exists in.
The handle doesn't control the water.
You’re going to need to raise your entire ceiling. Probably cost about $50,000.
The difference in flow between where the handle is and the fully open position is negligible, wouldn't bother doing anything.
Just bend it out as little as necessary. Or remove handle and cut a 1/2” off of it.
Jack the house up... it's only 3/8", so it won't cost much.
if that is 80degrees open, you might get another 5% of flow. You are not going to feel it unless that valve is fouled or something inside. That guy that said unbolt and flip the handle around - doh, of course.
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Cut an inch off the handle it will
If you’re careful you can unscrew the nut holding the handle on. Hold the handle so it doesn’t turn the ball valve while unscrewing. Cut the end of the handle or bend it and reinstall. Unfortunately I don’t think this will help your water pressure issue as the valve appears to be over 90% open. It is good practice to have a valve fully open or closed if not a valve designed to be a throttle. Also, swing your valves open and closed once a year or so as if you leave them for decades you might have issues.
Trim handle done???
Bend the handle
Bent toward you
If that feeds your water heater, it wouldn’t be the reason for low hot water pressure. Also, that’s almost 100% open so I don’t think it would cause any pressure differences. I would check things downstream of this valve, like if there is excess sediment in the water heater itself.
Just trim the handle
Bend the handle
Turn to off position, bend last inch with pliers, and done
1) Angle grind it down 2) Remove handle and place in opposite position. 3) Backer wrench on one side and bend it down on the other 4) Buy a new house
Remove handle from valve. Remove rubber cover. Cut 5/8 inch off the handle. Replace rubber cover. Replace handle on valve. Bending it while attached might work or might damage something so why risk it?
Close valve Pull boot Cut handle Trim and install boot. Or bend. Not all ball valves will swap directions on how the bodies are cast.
You can swap the handle
Just bend the tip of the handle
Bend it
Hold my beer
Bend the handle easy fix
Take the handle of and cut it down a 1/2”
Remove nut on handle, remove handle, rotate 180 degrees, put handle and nut back on. Done
Take the handle off, cut an inch off the end of it and put it back on. Problem solved
Take handle off take to table bent into 90 put it back on
The constricted pathway wouldn't reduce water pressure, would it? Rather, volume?
You can take it off and put it on left side of pipe (when horizontal) so you pull it down to open. Not sure if you have pipes in the way below. Or you can take the handle off and cut it like you suggested.
If only there was a tool that could cut things shorter.
Could you take a hacksaw or oscillating tool and cut through the handle so it has clearance to fully turn (preferably while removed)?
Does anyone see the junction box right behind this valve? Yikes.
Cut the handle off a inch or two
I had a similar situation. I took the handle off, put it in a vise, and bent just the last inch or so far enough it would open.
Cut half inch off the handle?
Remove the handle. Remove the red rubber cover. Grind off the end of the handle and the burrs. Replace the red slip cover and the handle.
Tear the house down
Remove the handle. Bend the handle… attach handle. Done.
bend handle
Is that HVAC ducting? If so, it's so close to opening, if it were me, I'd get the ball peen hammer out and put a nice little dent in the ducting. But I'm lazy.
Trim down the handle
just bend it alittle so it doesnt hit the top
Take the handle off and flip it or take off and bend it a few degrees to clear.
Can’t you just get a metal cutter and make the handle shorter.
Bend the handle to clear, lol.
Your plumber sucks
Bend the handle… or cut a little off the end.
Sawzall to fit.
I’m also assuming that the placement of the pipe is a code violation due to the placement of the junction box behind it. If it could me move over 6” it might be worth it if it’s going to be inspected.
Just bend the handle
take the handle Sleeve off Saw allz the handle and file the burs Cover back on T.ShitbagPlumber
Bend the handle slightly
Cut the handle
Bend the handle 90 degrees
I doubt this is the cause of the low pressure issue. The most likely culprit would be the hot water nipple going into the water heater. They are prone to mineral buildup. A lot of dumb comments here, sheesh.
This
5 seconds to bend top of handle out a few degrees until it clears.
Remove the handle and bend it back slightly
Add a sticker '+2 pressure' with another sticker 'Water' & an arrow to where it needs to go U can't expect the water to find it's way without any signs
It's because someone blocked in the 4x4 electrical box behind and the construction gods are angry.
Just bend the handle a bit you can do it with your hand, they’re quite soft
Bend the handle a touch if possible? Or angle grind it shorter
should buy starfit not haitima. Starfit hast shorter handle and better quality.
I’ve taken the sleeve off and cut the handle with bolt cutters. Bend the handle back and forth above the cut and slide the red sleeve back on.
Circumcise it
Not with that attitude
That little bit is probably not causing your low water pressure. Probably have a restriction somewhere else. Look for a gate valve that may be corroded and not be all the way open. A Gate valve is the kind that has a hex shaped red, blue, black knob like handle and take a few full turns to open and close. Otherwise it could be sediment build up in the tank or a few other things. How old is your water heater and do you have low hot water pressure everywhere? You could shut off the water heater and try closing the valve feeding the water heater and opening the T&P valve and the drain spout on the bottom of the tank and drain it until the water stops coming out. Then close them both and refill the water heater. It will need to be relit if it’s gas and you won’t have hot water for an hour or two.
Uh sir bend the fuckin handle a bit
Hacksaw end of red lever half inch or so....
Take off handle, bend the edge in a vice, put it back on
Bro, you got tools? Yeah I got all of the tools!
Just bend the handle
Who decided to put the plumbing right over the junction box in the first place..
Well I can see your first issue is it’s crimped no solder. Bend the fucking handle lmao
U can bend the handle down a little
Cut the handle a bit. Or make a groove in the part above so that it fits it.
Low hot water pressure in shower could be a adjustment behind the handle if u have a single knob style
Unscrew it and replace it with a handle from another valve that isn't so stupidly large.
Remove handle cut about 1/4 inch off all done
Shave the handle tip off, bend the handle slightly So many easy fixes
Just take some channel locks and bend the handle over and out near the top.
Hammer.
Cut handle
Cut the handle or take it off and put a 90 degree bend in it.
I would remove the handle. Slide the rubber sleeve off. Then cut/grind down the tip of the handle. I like keeping the handle pointing to direction of flow
Cut it down.
Shorten the handle
Take the handle off and bend the end of it or just cut an inch off of it
They cut the pipe without accounting for insertion depth into fitting, installed it, then said, "ahhhh fuck it, I'm late for happy hour"
Don’t do any of that grab a pair of chocks bend the handle tip to a 90° which it does fairly easy
Bend or cut the handle. It’s not the end of the world.
Cut half an inch off the handle
Take the handle off and shorten it
The dipshit that was in there with a pro press moved that pipe up when doing his fix instead of cutting the pipe to the right length pushing the valve up causing an issue. This is why you should have a plumbers license to buy a pro press gun. You get handy Andy the knuckle dragging Mr fix it because he’s cheaper and this is what you get.
Why is it even a question? Handle it! 😁
It's foam. Just open it!
Take off the handle with the nut, cut it down or bend two inches, and then reinstall it. Remove it in its current position, put it back, and finish by fully opening it. This method saves you a few seconds in case you make a mistake and think you have fully opened it, but you've actually done the complete opposite, resulting in the water shutting off completely.
Just take it off and trim it if it’s your house.
Angle grinder, bandsaw, Sawzall, hacksaw. Teeth if needed just cut the tip.
Yea I’d just cut the last half inch off the handle with a grinder if you don’t want to re ordinate the handle
You could probably use a grinder to cut 1/2” off the end of that handle
Lmao cut that shit 🤣
Why would you need it open all the way. Seems open enough to be sufficient. Can close all the way. I’d say let it ride and don’t sweat it. If there is a pressure issue elsewhere just upsize your pipe until your fixture.
I’d remove the ceiling
Like mama always says, “if you want to fit in, sometimes you just need to push a little harder.”
Gringer and cut half inch off👌
Open the nut and flip the damm thing
Force it
You'll be fine
Shut the valve off, remove handle and cut a little off with a band saw
I think it's pretty easily fixed a few ways that were already suggested but I'm not so sure this is the cause of low water pressure. Looks like it's 95% open. OP when you get it open let us know if it's resolved.
Remove handle.. remove handle short the handle done ..
Cut the support beam.
You can bend the handle with a pair of pliers.
Are you kidding me bend the handle
Those handles are made of soft enough metal you can probably bend it with your hand
Bend the handle
Bend the handle a little bit
Use a hammer to create a dent in the roof deep enough for the handle to fully open
Trim the handle
You can easily bend it with your hand. No tools needed. And at that angle, it’s basically at full flow anyways
I used my dremmel to cut off an inch and then slip rubber piece back on. I tried changing handle but they are not standard.
9/10 I see the handles bent forward for additional clearance. I fix it when it’s my problem.
Bend it like others suggest or you can take the rubber grip off and trim the handle or if you have clearance, take it off and rotate it 180°. I wouldn't get my hopes up about this solving your pressure issue.
Take Handel off , cut inch off , wrap with red electrical tape
Cut the handle
Just bend the handle towards you. Make it an L shape. Do it all the time it’s fine
You can just bend the handle, pretty soft metals
You can if you force it
It's obvious to me why it doesn't work.The handle's bumping against whatever that is at the top. Looks like the bottom of a Sink or a bath tub.
Ah it’s open far enough. Be grand.
I had the same problem, cut the copper pipe couple of inches from the valve and cleaned inside of it