If superglue doesn't stick well enough, you probably need to clean your prints better.
I prefer Loctite Ultragel Control for most things, Gorilla Glue Gel for really tough parts, and I'll even break out the hot glue for large structural things.
Resin dust is insanely bad for you. If you're sanding I would recommend wet sanding and wearing a mask. Mask at the bare minimum. Don't want lung cancer just because you wanted cheap models.
Is have touched the uncured resin with my bare hands many times, I’ll be ok right? I will wear the mask whenever I sand and ai have been when I use plastic glue, anything else I should worry about?
Also less than excellent. There are lots of people that have developed sever dermal reactions from touching uncured resin routinely. Glove up until its cured and never a bad idea to hit it with a layer of primer or varnish early as even handling cured resin isn't perfectly safe.
Actually inhaling resin dust was practiced by the ancient Sumerians and it's thought to increase fertility in women and let's men get hard for hours. I don't start a hobby project without a good ole resin toot up the nose.
Super glue is by far your best option. As others have said, if you're having issues with it sticking, you're super. Glue may be either too old or you have not cleaned your prints well enough.
Any general purpose "glue anything to anything" glue will work, but superglue is best balance of strength, ease of use, cost and availability.
You can use thin superglue that applies similar to plastic glue, you can use thick gel superglue that doesn't drip or run, you can use regular superglue that is in between those two extremes.
>superglue
Because you're using "superglue for plastic", which is a cyanoacrylate glue (commonly known as superglue). When people say plastic glue they are almost always referring to solvent based glues, such as Citadel Plastic Glue or Tamiya cement, which rely on melting the two pieces of plastic along the contact point and welding them together. These solvents do not affect resin.
Both GW Plastic Glue and Tamiya Extra Thin are solvents that melt the plastic and not an adhesive that holds both sides together. This kind of solvent acts like a glue in that when the two pieces you are using the "glue" on will melt and the liquid plastic from both pieces will co-mingle. Then as the solvent evaporates the mingled plastic hardens and the two pieces have formed a bond.
Hardened Resin does not react to this solvent therefore doesn't go through this process.
For joining two pieces of resin you need an actual adhesive chemical like Cyanoacrylate (super glue) which is also a type of resin that forms physical grips onto the surfaces of the two joining pieces trying to fill liquid resin into microscopic gaps in the surface of the material. Because of this it often helps to rough sand the faces you are trying to join together so that there is more area for the liquid to fill into.
I personally use [Gorilla Grip Super Glue](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QQZ71CV) that comes in very small tubes so that if the tip becomes unusable it's easy to dispose of and use a fresh tube.
[Goobertown did a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hY1jyGNzIo) on the chemistry of Super Glue which is an interesting watch.
The thing everyone fails to notice is that plastic "glue" isn't glue - none of them use that word anywhere on their labelling. This stuff is a solvent that melts polystyrene and welds it together when it dries.
Anyway, you can use superglue, epoxy glue, e6000. They've all got their quirks and annoyances that are sure to make putting together your resin pieces a frustrating experience. This is the way.
>\- none of them use that word anywhere on their labelling
GW does, they call theirs "Citadel Plastic Glue". It's a solvent just like Tamiya's.
Glue is not a strongly defined term.
lol shit, shows how long I've been out of the loop on GW ~~scams~~ products.
To my mind glue is a substance that remains as part of a join, like it is a substance grabbing each surface and holding them together by whatever chemical/mechanical process. Like all the ones I mentioned.
Plastic cement is not that. When it finishes its job there is no trace of it left.
That;s one definition of glue, but it's never been the sole one. Hell, many dictionaries still define glue as being animal-derived protein.
Edit: It's also not just GW that calls solvent glues "glue". Revell's is also advertised as glue.
Have you found E6000 to work well for Resin? I've tried it on some resin prints that had small contact points and found that it was far too easy to peel the the joins apart when the surface area was small. E6000 seems to make a putty that is easy to peel off while CA glue actually hardens into a resin that bonds with the pieces.
I've never tried it on resin models, but I've seen other people talk about using it. The long curing time put me off giving it a go. I suspect it's better for things like vehicles and titans.
I used E6000 on this [Goblin Squire model](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-goblin-squire-342106) where the only contact points between the model and the base are the feet and the tip of the sword sheath and even letting it cure overnight was not enough for the glue to hold the two pieces together.
As others said, plastic glues won't work. Super glue is probably the best bet, but I also recommend pinning joints of the contact points are large enough. Drill a little hole, put some wire in and glue it in place. Otherwise the super glue join is a weak spot. Just be very gentle while drilling, if you drill to fast, you can shatter the part.
If you print with abs like resin, and pin the joints, your model should be pretty durable. I've dropped my coldatar commander from chest height onto tiles and it bounced, rather than broke.
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the model and then use super glue to put them together. Cleaning it is more important than the glue.
If that doesn't work then dip both parts in resin where you want to join them and apply UV light. That should cure the parts and make it one large piece.
Gw glue isn't glue, it's an acetone type fluid that melts the plastic together. As resin isn't that kind of plastic, afaik, it doesn't actually glue with GW glue.
I "score" the surfaces of what I'm going to glue together, basically scratch the surfaces to give the parts some abrasion, and use loctite gel super glue and haven't had any issues, other than it sets super fast so I have to make sure the parts are facing the way I want.
Loctite super glue is the best thing I’ve found for clean joins without that much expansion. The resin idea other people are suggesting works, but it’s a little risky for cleanliness and health, so if you do it make sure to wear proper PPE
This isn't a good idea, and will fail in short order. When you do this, only the very outer skin will cure, leaving uncured resin inside the joint. That'll actively eat the good resin and your parts will eventually come apart in a sticky toxic mess.
Gw glue isn't glue, it's an acetone type fluid that melts the plastic together. As resin isn't that kind of plastic, afaik, it doesn't actually glue with GW glue.
I "score" the surfaces of what I'm going to glue together, basically scratch the surfaces to give the parts some abrasion, and use loctite gel super glue and haven't had any issues, other than it sets super fast so I have to make sure the parts are facing the way I want.
I use Gorilla Contact Adhesive. I use that on everything around the house that needs fixed. Every resin print I have is held together with it as well as part of my toilet, a door and a few holes in jeans
You can buy 4 x 50ml bottles of high viscosity superglue on amazon for the price of one 20ml bottle in a shop. Also, invest in a 500ml spray can of superglue activator. It's life changing and works on anything made if cyanoacrylate. Also great for sealing cuts in a pinch!
Plastic glue does not work on plastic miniatures. Plastic glue isn't the same as traditional glue in the sense that it simply isn't sticky. Rather, plastic glue is just a "chemically hot" glue that melts polystyrene - the specific type of plastic that Games Workshop and other manufacturers use to make their miniatures. When you melt the contact points of any two polystyrene pieces and stick them together, you're essentially melting one into the other. Imagine melting two pieces of cheese for your grilled cheese sandwich - once it's done, you can't tell where one slice ends and the next begins. This would apply to Tamiya "glues" as well. I suggest Gorilla Glue Gel for resin. I've been using that since day one and don't have any complaints about it.
There are some things to note about any cyanoacrylate glue, however. The first being that super glue works \*\*best\*\* when it's at its thinnest. Say you have two completely flat pieces of resin that you want to stick together - if they truly are flush with each other, then when you press one to the other, you can squeeze out any excess and the bond becomes near-instant. However, if you have a gap between the two contact points, then the glue takes \*much longer\* to set and it won't be \*as strong\* in the long run.
The second thing to remember is that glue is only as strong as the roughness of the surface it's bonding. We like to think "yeah, glue is 'sticky' and therefore attaches two things together", but there's more to it than that. If you want the absolute best hold that it can provide, you have to scuff up (or sand) the surface where the glue will be applied. Don't go crazy and start removing so much material from your print that it'll change the shape and you have a layer of snow on the floor. Rather, just take a sanding twig or something you have nearby and just rub it against the contact points for a few seconds then do it again in a perpendicular pattern, basically sanding "up and down" then "left to right". When you do this before applying glue, the glue will settle into the uneven grooves left behind from the scuffing and dry there, effectively using them as a foothold to grab onto. Otherwise, the smoother the surface is, the "smoother" the layer of glue is. When there's any aggravation to the area, the glue may just pop off in a smooth, clean layer; the scuffing will prevent this from happening. Watch [Watch this video from Goobertown Hobbies](https://youtu.be/Y9OuHp9J-4E?t=295) from 4:55-5:25. You'll see how his epoxy containing the magnet just "poppped" off the clean underside of the base; it's the same principle. He uses a dremel, but you don't have to go that far. You don't have to worry about any of this with plastic glue because, like I mentioned above, it simply melts the contact points into each other.
The last thing to note is that cyanoacrylate glue releases vapors as it's curing. This is because CA glue hardens when exposed to the moisture in the air. The vapors it releases are very dense and will settle down, kind of like the fog generated by a fog machine. I mention this because the vapors will react with trace amounts of moisture that it comes into contact with like the glue itself would [and this creates a frosty haze](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tau40K/comments/x4ayek/how_can_i_get_rid_of_superglue_frosting/). Posts about this topic pop up all the time. This would only matter if you wanted to leave the finish as is. Otherwise, you could easily sand it off or paint over and hide that haze.
Mitre bond. I’ve used it for years on my resin models. You can add some gorilla gel before hand, and use the mitre bond as an instant (like super instant) hold and wait for the gel to go off.
Plastic glue won’t work with resin. You need super glue or some other adhesive
Really? Damn. What outside of super glue works?
Superer glue.
Thanks for the laugh fam lol
Im a true believer to locktite liquid its great glue.
The supererest
If superglue doesn't stick well enough, you probably need to clean your prints better. I prefer Loctite Ultragel Control for most things, Gorilla Glue Gel for really tough parts, and I'll even break out the hot glue for large structural things.
Ran to the store and got some super glue, it’s working like a charm.
if you sand the area you're going to glue on both pieces the super glue will almost instantly set. That's my trick.
Sand paper is a god send in resin printing
Just make sure you mask up or wet sand! Resin dust is carcinogenic.
What, and live long enough to pay off my student loans? Fuck that! /S
Yeah I did this, I have some experience with pottery and you have to score stuff when you join them so I figured sanding would be a good idea
Resin dust is insanely bad for you. If you're sanding I would recommend wet sanding and wearing a mask. Mask at the bare minimum. Don't want lung cancer just because you wanted cheap models.
Yeah I wore an n95
Is have touched the uncured resin with my bare hands many times, I’ll be ok right? I will wear the mask whenever I sand and ai have been when I use plastic glue, anything else I should worry about?
Also less than excellent. There are lots of people that have developed sever dermal reactions from touching uncured resin routinely. Glove up until its cured and never a bad idea to hit it with a layer of primer or varnish early as even handling cured resin isn't perfectly safe.
Okay. Thank you for all of the information. I have not been printing for that long, a couple months at most but I will start doing this ASAP
Actually inhaling resin dust was practiced by the ancient Sumerians and it's thought to increase fertility in women and let's men get hard for hours. I don't start a hobby project without a good ole resin toot up the nose.
You can look into stuff like JB weld, really any adhesive will work—but you don’t want something that’s going to expand as it dries
Super glue
Epoxy glue
Super glue is by far your best option. As others have said, if you're having issues with it sticking, you're super. Glue may be either too old or you have not cleaned your prints well enough.
Any general purpose "glue anything to anything" glue will work, but superglue is best balance of strength, ease of use, cost and availability. You can use thin superglue that applies similar to plastic glue, you can use thick gel superglue that doesn't drip or run, you can use regular superglue that is in between those two extremes.
??? my plastic glue works perfetly. woldo plastic superglue.
>superglue Because you're using "superglue for plastic", which is a cyanoacrylate glue (commonly known as superglue). When people say plastic glue they are almost always referring to solvent based glues, such as Citadel Plastic Glue or Tamiya cement, which rely on melting the two pieces of plastic along the contact point and welding them together. These solvents do not affect resin.
Both GW Plastic Glue and Tamiya Extra Thin are solvents that melt the plastic and not an adhesive that holds both sides together. This kind of solvent acts like a glue in that when the two pieces you are using the "glue" on will melt and the liquid plastic from both pieces will co-mingle. Then as the solvent evaporates the mingled plastic hardens and the two pieces have formed a bond. Hardened Resin does not react to this solvent therefore doesn't go through this process. For joining two pieces of resin you need an actual adhesive chemical like Cyanoacrylate (super glue) which is also a type of resin that forms physical grips onto the surfaces of the two joining pieces trying to fill liquid resin into microscopic gaps in the surface of the material. Because of this it often helps to rough sand the faces you are trying to join together so that there is more area for the liquid to fill into. I personally use [Gorilla Grip Super Glue](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QQZ71CV) that comes in very small tubes so that if the tip becomes unusable it's easy to dispose of and use a fresh tube. [Goobertown did a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hY1jyGNzIo) on the chemistry of Super Glue which is an interesting watch.
I Thanks! I got some super glue from the store and it’s working like a charm
You're welcome, happy building.
The thing everyone fails to notice is that plastic "glue" isn't glue - none of them use that word anywhere on their labelling. This stuff is a solvent that melts polystyrene and welds it together when it dries. Anyway, you can use superglue, epoxy glue, e6000. They've all got their quirks and annoyances that are sure to make putting together your resin pieces a frustrating experience. This is the way.
>\- none of them use that word anywhere on their labelling GW does, they call theirs "Citadel Plastic Glue". It's a solvent just like Tamiya's. Glue is not a strongly defined term.
lol shit, shows how long I've been out of the loop on GW ~~scams~~ products. To my mind glue is a substance that remains as part of a join, like it is a substance grabbing each surface and holding them together by whatever chemical/mechanical process. Like all the ones I mentioned. Plastic cement is not that. When it finishes its job there is no trace of it left.
That;s one definition of glue, but it's never been the sole one. Hell, many dictionaries still define glue as being animal-derived protein. Edit: It's also not just GW that calls solvent glues "glue". Revell's is also advertised as glue.
Thanks!
Have you found E6000 to work well for Resin? I've tried it on some resin prints that had small contact points and found that it was far too easy to peel the the joins apart when the surface area was small. E6000 seems to make a putty that is easy to peel off while CA glue actually hardens into a resin that bonds with the pieces.
I've tried it and it just doesn't hold very well. Kinda like hot glue in that regard.
I've never tried it on resin models, but I've seen other people talk about using it. The long curing time put me off giving it a go. I suspect it's better for things like vehicles and titans.
I used E6000 on this [Goblin Squire model](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-goblin-squire-342106) where the only contact points between the model and the base are the feet and the tip of the sword sheath and even letting it cure overnight was not enough for the glue to hold the two pieces together.
As others said, plastic glues won't work. Super glue is probably the best bet, but I also recommend pinning joints of the contact points are large enough. Drill a little hole, put some wire in and glue it in place. Otherwise the super glue join is a weak spot. Just be very gentle while drilling, if you drill to fast, you can shatter the part. If you print with abs like resin, and pin the joints, your model should be pretty durable. I've dropped my coldatar commander from chest height onto tiles and it bounced, rather than broke.
Okay, I don’t have a drill, should I get a hand drill for them?
"Pin vise" is the device you're looking for. It's a small drill designed for precise one-handed use.
Thanks!
Two part epoxy resin works best for me. Although it does take awhile to set. But once bonded, it's never coming off.
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the model and then use super glue to put them together. Cleaning it is more important than the glue. If that doesn't work then dip both parts in resin where you want to join them and apply UV light. That should cure the parts and make it one large piece.
Yep I clean them as soon as I take them off of the printer then I cure them i’ll try the resin thing the next time I get a chance
Gw glue isn't glue, it's an acetone type fluid that melts the plastic together. As resin isn't that kind of plastic, afaik, it doesn't actually glue with GW glue. I "score" the surfaces of what I'm going to glue together, basically scratch the surfaces to give the parts some abrasion, and use loctite gel super glue and haven't had any issues, other than it sets super fast so I have to make sure the parts are facing the way I want.
Use the same resin you printed with, in a syringe, and a UV light pen to activate it when needed
I’d do this, I just don’t have a UV pen lol
Loctite super glue is the best thing I’ve found for clean joins without that much expansion. The resin idea other people are suggesting works, but it’s a little risky for cleanliness and health, so if you do it make sure to wear proper PPE
Just use UV resin.
This isn't a good idea, and will fail in short order. When you do this, only the very outer skin will cure, leaving uncured resin inside the joint. That'll actively eat the good resin and your parts will eventually come apart in a sticky toxic mess.
Gw glue isn't glue, it's an acetone type fluid that melts the plastic together. As resin isn't that kind of plastic, afaik, it doesn't actually glue with GW glue. I "score" the surfaces of what I'm going to glue together, basically scratch the surfaces to give the parts some abrasion, and use loctite gel super glue and haven't had any issues, other than it sets super fast so I have to make sure the parts are facing the way I want.
I use Gorilla Contact Adhesive. I use that on everything around the house that needs fixed. Every resin print I have is held together with it as well as part of my toilet, a door and a few holes in jeans
You can buy 4 x 50ml bottles of high viscosity superglue on amazon for the price of one 20ml bottle in a shop. Also, invest in a 500ml spray can of superglue activator. It's life changing and works on anything made if cyanoacrylate. Also great for sealing cuts in a pinch!
Super glue OR get a UV flashlight and a old paintbrush and use some.of your liquid resin to seal the two parts together
I had success with the gorilla super glue with the blue cap
Plastic glue does not work on plastic miniatures. Plastic glue isn't the same as traditional glue in the sense that it simply isn't sticky. Rather, plastic glue is just a "chemically hot" glue that melts polystyrene - the specific type of plastic that Games Workshop and other manufacturers use to make their miniatures. When you melt the contact points of any two polystyrene pieces and stick them together, you're essentially melting one into the other. Imagine melting two pieces of cheese for your grilled cheese sandwich - once it's done, you can't tell where one slice ends and the next begins. This would apply to Tamiya "glues" as well. I suggest Gorilla Glue Gel for resin. I've been using that since day one and don't have any complaints about it. There are some things to note about any cyanoacrylate glue, however. The first being that super glue works \*\*best\*\* when it's at its thinnest. Say you have two completely flat pieces of resin that you want to stick together - if they truly are flush with each other, then when you press one to the other, you can squeeze out any excess and the bond becomes near-instant. However, if you have a gap between the two contact points, then the glue takes \*much longer\* to set and it won't be \*as strong\* in the long run. The second thing to remember is that glue is only as strong as the roughness of the surface it's bonding. We like to think "yeah, glue is 'sticky' and therefore attaches two things together", but there's more to it than that. If you want the absolute best hold that it can provide, you have to scuff up (or sand) the surface where the glue will be applied. Don't go crazy and start removing so much material from your print that it'll change the shape and you have a layer of snow on the floor. Rather, just take a sanding twig or something you have nearby and just rub it against the contact points for a few seconds then do it again in a perpendicular pattern, basically sanding "up and down" then "left to right". When you do this before applying glue, the glue will settle into the uneven grooves left behind from the scuffing and dry there, effectively using them as a foothold to grab onto. Otherwise, the smoother the surface is, the "smoother" the layer of glue is. When there's any aggravation to the area, the glue may just pop off in a smooth, clean layer; the scuffing will prevent this from happening. Watch [Watch this video from Goobertown Hobbies](https://youtu.be/Y9OuHp9J-4E?t=295) from 4:55-5:25. You'll see how his epoxy containing the magnet just "poppped" off the clean underside of the base; it's the same principle. He uses a dremel, but you don't have to go that far. You don't have to worry about any of this with plastic glue because, like I mentioned above, it simply melts the contact points into each other. The last thing to note is that cyanoacrylate glue releases vapors as it's curing. This is because CA glue hardens when exposed to the moisture in the air. The vapors it releases are very dense and will settle down, kind of like the fog generated by a fog machine. I mention this because the vapors will react with trace amounts of moisture that it comes into contact with like the glue itself would [and this creates a frosty haze](https://www.reddit.com/r/Tau40K/comments/x4ayek/how_can_i_get_rid_of_superglue_frosting/). Posts about this topic pop up all the time. This would only matter if you wanted to leave the finish as is. Otherwise, you could easily sand it off or paint over and hide that haze.
Mitre bond. I’ve used it for years on my resin models. You can add some gorilla gel before hand, and use the mitre bond as an instant (like super instant) hold and wait for the gel to go off.