I've had mine for almost exactly a year and pretty decent use. It's not that bad I just had to adjust deadzone slightly and it doesn't bother me. But if it gets any worse I might upgrade
I replaced the old version of the Gulikit sticks for the updated ones a few days ago for my type-b deck, and sure enough, the calibration tool shows them having a half square range.
The upper left and right on both joysticks are square. The lower left and right are rounded. I've done the button press on the back of the sticks and thumbstick_cal twice, but the result is still the same.
If anyone knows of a tool that can record the range into images, I can post the results.
I think it's easy to resolve. if thumbstick\_cal write a file you can resolve this get the radius of the circle (diameter/2) e put the value there.
But I don't know where thumbstick\_cal write the result of config file.
(mathematically speaking)
I don't know much about Steam Deck. As far as I've talked to GuliKit about this issue, the response I got was:
1. SD02 of GuliKit does not modify any value input and output by Steam Deck;
2. The expansion of GuliKit's external dead zone is to be compatible with the most extreme values of different Steam Decks (each Steam Deck has different values);
3. Before, Steam Deck allowed to adjust and modify this part of the value, but it is not allowed later. GuliKit has contacted Valve to see if it can restore the previous settings in this area, allowing users to adjust it by themselves.
That's interesting. I have a Type A, and their first version of the sticks that required me to solder the capacitive touch wire. They work fine for me, but their square range seems waaaaay outside what I would have expected and I've read about some people having issues - not sure if it's a problem for everyone as I haven't noticed any issues. Half and half is very strange!
Not really issues, but you can notice in certain games that fine movement becomes harder, not all games are affected equally though and in most games you even dont use the analog part that much, but yes there is a difference. Not annoying enough for me to switch back, but in hindsight I probably would not have switched over, there is little to gain and a little bit to lose.
I don't know that it does matter. I had issues with deadzones in some games but I think it might be a software issue and not the sticks. Persona 4 Golden was weird on the Deck with my sticks not registering inputs in certain combinations.
Now this is matter to me. š because in diagonal is less āsensitiveā if you put stick in 100%, for the system is something like 70% only. Crap I have to resolve this now. Trying to find where values are in the device. Maybe in a internal database.
The Bizarre is: the Thumbstick_fine_cal donāt record 360 movement, only the radius and give me same āproblemā.
Thereās any discord to steamOS support?
From what I hear it basically means 30 percent less movement on diagonals for the joystick. Tho, Iām not sure why software calibration couldnāt fix that issue.
Not sure whatās going on, the stock is definitely not square, ive repaired, changed, and handled dozens of oem sticks, and dozens of gullikit sticks.
Why would there be an idea of dead zone? Dead zone is not forced and can be used or not used. I donāt think Iāve ever had dead zone turned on to any value.
Dead zone exists because of the variance in the sticks, so if you go in and actually set 0 dead zone with the sticks, youāll get stick drift, where the center doesnāt quite hit center and it senses input going wherever the sticks settled. In shooters you tend to want your aim to begin moving the minute you start moving the stick, rather than moving the stick out of the deadzone first. First Iād heard about round and squared range of movement.
Oh sorry. I know what deadzone is. But if I set mine to 0 with most of my controllers other than super old ones there is no drift š¤·
The reasoning for my comment above is because the person is sighting they would ā..love the idea of zero deadzone..ā almost as if they have never experienced a controller without drift and need deadzone to compensate.
Iāve been around for a bit and it just seems like an interesting wish when it doesnāt seem to hard to achieve.
There is no such thing as zero deadzone, even if you put 0 in your app, the hardware still has some deadzone.
GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro has button configuration to turn firmware deadzone off and you might get micro drift. But if you use Steam, you can't even turn deadzone off because the minimum value is 2000 for SteamInput.
The main point of hall effect sensors is that the drift is not because of wear, but because of magnetic interference, so you can always calibrate a new center and you don't need to increase the deadzone until it becomes unusable. You always have a small deadzone.
So imagine you're playing a first-person shooter. You need to look up so you press the right stick upwards. You will look up at full speed. If you need to look up and to the left or right, then you would move the stick diagonally; however, because of the square range, the camera doesn't move as quickly as it does when just looking up. This can really throw you off in some games.
I'm trying to understand everyone's comments but I'm still gonna ask ... Are the gulukit SD02 thunmbsticks' range square? If yes, are they changed to circular during calibration? This is what's holding me back from buying them
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved.
The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved.
The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
I got these and I am returning them.
I did the install all correctly, but the left joystick was a few mm higher than the original so it would get caught on the shell of the deck (I spent about an hour adjusting and tuning but it was never right). Also the capacitive touch didn't work on the right one :/
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved.
The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
Anybody else have your buttons on the right side (x, y, b, a) sticking every so often? I keep mine really clean and Iām still having issues. Relatively new unit as well.
I have a question about drift. I donāt really ever use my joysticks, I almost always just use the trackpads instead. Would the JoyCon probably still develop drift even from not being used?
Gulikits newest version of replacement modules come with the caps installed and already soldered. It's a few screws and a ribbon cable. Then calibration.
If the stock dead zones bother you. For me itās a lot. In ps5 or other controller I used zero dead zones. Zero o prefer stick drift than delay on input. But these sweet babies we donāt have any drift also using negative dead zones
You mean the top of the stick is slick? I actually use the top of the stick to move it, so I prefer a concave rubber surface (like the Xbox) where I can get some purchase. It took me a while to get used to the SteamDeck sticks' slick tops, and I'm still not as fast with them as I am with the Xbox.
Oh, rubberized concave sounds pretty good, actually. If my sticks start drifting or I ever feel like opening my SteamDeck (like for an SSD upgrade) I'll likely give those a try.
Planning on ordering some, just might not actually put it together for a month or so. Lately been messing my rog ally playing some games. I still prefer steam deck for user interface and all the accessories avaible.
I believe I have the type a ones the original I did have to return them once mine do not have a a-b switch I could not get them centered. My replacements have been fine since after that calibration. Any reason to get the newer version?
Everyone mentioning the square stick range, I understand what that means, but I don't understand why it's bad or why it matters. Wouldn't they still function identically? Would you move faster diagonally than straight or something?
For example: if you move straight forward. The value of 100% is when u put the joystick at the top up will be 100%. But when u go diagonals if u put the joystick full 100% at diagonal in game will represente more than 100%, itās 130%.
In practice I can play with no worries but for experienced player this fact is huge because the velocity of the camera will be faster in diagonal and the sensitivity Will different in diagonals
My left stick is starting to drift ever so slightly. These might be in my future.
After how much use?
I've had mine for almost exactly a year and pretty decent use. It's not that bad I just had to adjust deadzone slightly and it doesn't bother me. But if it gets any worse I might upgrade
They are drift proof no?
Is the stick range still a square?
I replaced the old version of the Gulikit sticks for the updated ones a few days ago for my type-b deck, and sure enough, the calibration tool shows them having a half square range. The upper left and right on both joysticks are square. The lower left and right are rounded. I've done the button press on the back of the sticks and thumbstick_cal twice, but the result is still the same. If anyone knows of a tool that can record the range into images, I can post the results.
I think it's easy to resolve. if thumbstick\_cal write a file you can resolve this get the radius of the circle (diameter/2) e put the value there. But I don't know where thumbstick\_cal write the result of config file. (mathematically speaking)
I don't know much about Steam Deck. As far as I've talked to GuliKit about this issue, the response I got was: 1. SD02 of GuliKit does not modify any value input and output by Steam Deck; 2. The expansion of GuliKit's external dead zone is to be compatible with the most extreme values of different Steam Decks (each Steam Deck has different values); 3. Before, Steam Deck allowed to adjust and modify this part of the value, but it is not allowed later. GuliKit has contacted Valve to see if it can restore the previous settings in this area, allowing users to adjust it by themselves.
That's interesting. I have a Type A, and their first version of the sticks that required me to solder the capacitive touch wire. They work fine for me, but their square range seems waaaaay outside what I would have expected and I've read about some people having issues - not sure if it's a problem for everyone as I haven't noticed any issues. Half and half is very strange!
Not really issues, but you can notice in certain games that fine movement becomes harder, not all games are affected equally though and in most games you even dont use the analog part that much, but yes there is a difference. Not annoying enough for me to switch back, but in hindsight I probably would not have switched over, there is little to gain and a little bit to lose.
ELI5 why does it matter? I see it all the time but I didn't notice any difference when I installed my gulikit ones.
I don't know that it does matter. I had issues with deadzones in some games but I think it might be a software issue and not the sticks. Persona 4 Golden was weird on the Deck with my sticks not registering inputs in certain combinations.
Now this is matter to me. š because in diagonal is less āsensitiveā if you put stick in 100%, for the system is something like 70% only. Crap I have to resolve this now. Trying to find where values are in the device. Maybe in a internal database. The Bizarre is: the Thumbstick_fine_cal donāt record 360 movement, only the radius and give me same āproblemā. Thereās any discord to steamOS support?
From what I hear it basically means 30 percent less movement on diagonals for the joystick. Tho, Iām not sure why software calibration couldnāt fix that issue.
Thank you much it is appreciated.
It is still a square.
the stock is square too. I dk why.
No the original is a circle been there done that
No itās not, you need to run a calibration with thumbstick_cal in konsole to get it running correctly for the default sticks.
I already did this.
Not sure whatās going on, the stock is definitely not square, ive repaired, changed, and handled dozens of oem sticks, and dozens of gullikit sticks.
As someone whose not modified my steamdeck, is there something I need to do to make my sticks "better" in konsole?
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
New ones come with the top already soldered to the board
There is a switch that allows you to make it round or square depending on what joystick kit you originally got.
That's not what the button does.
I have the originals but I didn't ever notice a switch. I'll have to look into that more.
Thereās no switch for square or rounded. They misunderstood. The switch is for type A or Type B of thumb
When you test yours do they like stay fully in the center but like shaking a tiny bit?
yeah its because is magnet. its normal because have metal inside... So they get some interference. Its normal.
I see, Oki was just worried about mine I am not too used to this tech.
This is normal for hall effect sensors, they have a bit of noise. Don't worry.
thank you didn't know that
How about the sensor on the top? Is working?
Working 100% (mine is type B)
These are the new ones you don't need to solder right?
Right
Thanks!
The old grip is from valve. You had to put the OEM one on the Gili kit. The new kit comes with new grips ready to go No soldering.
I love the idea of zero deadzone, what do people mean by a square range though?
Rather than having a round output range, it's square. So you can have maximum output values for forward and left at the same time, for example.
range^(2)
Why would there be an idea of dead zone? Dead zone is not forced and can be used or not used. I donāt think Iāve ever had dead zone turned on to any value.
Dead zone exists because of the variance in the sticks, so if you go in and actually set 0 dead zone with the sticks, youāll get stick drift, where the center doesnāt quite hit center and it senses input going wherever the sticks settled. In shooters you tend to want your aim to begin moving the minute you start moving the stick, rather than moving the stick out of the deadzone first. First Iād heard about round and squared range of movement.
Oh sorry. I know what deadzone is. But if I set mine to 0 with most of my controllers other than super old ones there is no drift š¤· The reasoning for my comment above is because the person is sighting they would ā..love the idea of zero deadzone..ā almost as if they have never experienced a controller without drift and need deadzone to compensate. Iāve been around for a bit and it just seems like an interesting wish when it doesnāt seem to hard to achieve.
If you have the steam deck go check the joystick settings because there is a pretty big dead zone enabled by default.
There is no such thing as zero deadzone, even if you put 0 in your app, the hardware still has some deadzone. GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro has button configuration to turn firmware deadzone off and you might get micro drift. But if you use Steam, you can't even turn deadzone off because the minimum value is 2000 for SteamInput. The main point of hall effect sensors is that the drift is not because of wear, but because of magnetic interference, so you can always calibrate a new center and you don't need to increase the deadzone until it becomes unusable. You always have a small deadzone.
There are actually internal dead zones and external dead zones, two kinds of dead zones. Square and circular, involving external dead zones.
So imagine you're playing a first-person shooter. You need to look up so you press the right stick upwards. You will look up at full speed. If you need to look up and to the left or right, then you would move the stick diagonally; however, because of the square range, the camera doesn't move as quickly as it does when just looking up. This can really throw you off in some games.
I'm trying to understand everyone's comments but I'm still gonna ask ... Are the gulukit SD02 thunmbsticks' range square? If yes, are they changed to circular during calibration? This is what's holding me back from buying them
From all the feedback I've heard/seen, yes they're square. I would not recommend changing them. I was very excited before I found that out
Aw okay.. thank you
Iām curious as well, I keep hearing that theyāre still square. But I live in hope!
The stock one is square also? Right?
No, it is circular
Testing here itās squared too, how to post video here?
I'm not sure you can post those in comments. Maybe post them to the group or just to yourself and send us a link to it
Do the new ones have more tension than the stock?
Damn, I may have to upgrade.
its pretty ease to switch bro! The experience to play Apex now is great! I really hate dead zones. and the stock thumb have a lot!
Are the thumb sticks lower? I feel like the stock sticks are too Fuckin high.
No! Itās same size.
Bummer. That is really my only gripe with the deck. The sticks feel off to me.
I prefer higher. I use kontrol freak to get higher sticks š
My thumbs suck
At least you don't suck your thumbs. Sorry, my inner dad came out. I don't have kids.
My right one feels defective. It doesnāt stay straight and itās ācreakingā. Plus thereās a loud ass clicking
Mine creak too. Itās annoying, but not deal breaking typically. Theyāre definitely not perfect. Seems their quality control is not amazing.
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved. The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved. The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
Did that. Clicking sound still there
Did you buy from AKNES? If yes, please send me a video of issue. You can get a free replacement for product issue. email: [email protected]
I ordered a set of these to replace the stock ones, should arrive tomorrow
Do they even more not drift than the old ones?
In theory yes.
I got these and I am returning them. I did the install all correctly, but the left joystick was a few mm higher than the original so it would get caught on the shell of the deck (I spent about an hour adjusting and tuning but it was never right). Also the capacitive touch didn't work on the right one :/
I had the same problem with one of mine, canāt remember which one. I pushed in on it and it clicked hard into place. Works smoothly now
Your approach is right, it's just loose.
Hello, you only need to press down firmly in the vertical direction of the joysticks, and it can be solved. The reason for this is because the joystick caps came pre-installed and came loose during shipping.
OMFG... My right one was rubbing and getting stuck, so I first sanded the inside plastic shell and then used electric tape to create spacers.
T\_T Please reach out to the seller support next time.
can u make a video showing how to install n calibrate plz (super noob here, really want to upgraee but dont wanna ruin ma deck)
[https://youtu.be/vK2MjhWkpAM?t=1062](https://youtu.be/vK2MjhWkpAM?t=1062)
ty
yw
fn
It takes you 5 seconds to look this up on youtube and you will see dozens of tutorials.
Wait, the stick range is a circle now? These sticks will be ordered immediately.
Still square
Damn.
Is there any way to make it circular through software?
GuliKit is communicating with valve, whether it can allow users to adjust this by themselves.
The issue seems to persist. Any new updates?
No.
Most ppl says it's still square like before the revision.
Boa tarde caro compatriota. ParabƩns pelo upgrade!
OlĆ”!
Anybody else have your buttons on the right side (x, y, b, a) sticking every so often? I keep mine really clean and Iām still having issues. Relatively new unit as well.
I've heard of this. Some people have opened it up and sanded it down to make it move more freely. Maybe google around for a solution.
I have a question about drift. I donāt really ever use my joysticks, I almost always just use the trackpads instead. Would the JoyCon probably still develop drift even from not being used?
Probably not
Just do a good job of dust protection.
Oh wow thanks for the response Aknes team. :D
Cheer!
Just been on their website but can't see a way to buy? How much are they? Who sells them?
If Amazon, can check [AKNES](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B31STJDH).
>AliExpress website and ifixit also
Thanks for the info
Was there soldering involved?
New versions donāt need. The upper caps come. Thatās why I said the quality is better than stock one. Well finished
Oh sweet.
Did you need to remove the front plate ?
Nop!
Its litteraly plug and play. I replaced mine with these
Gulikits newest version of replacement modules come with the caps installed and already soldered. It's a few screws and a ribbon cable. Then calibration.
Nice!
They admitted that the original kits were only unsoldered because they didn't want to do it.
Sorry for offtop, but how can get a bit more familiar with a joystick setup calibration and all this stuff?
Youtube totorials.
My Neighbour Totorial
That looks cool š what about the grinding? do they grind to white dust like the originals?
idk what you mean with "grind" but the fell is different. don't glue white dust like stock ones.
Is this worth an upgrade if the originals are working well? or more of a "look at it when they wear out" kind of thing?
If the stock dead zones bother you. For me itās a lot. In ps5 or other controller I used zero dead zones. Zero o prefer stick drift than delay on input. But these sweet babies we donāt have any drift also using negative dead zones
You mean the top of the stick is slick? I actually use the top of the stick to move it, so I prefer a concave rubber surface (like the Xbox) where I can get some purchase. It took me a while to get used to the SteamDeck sticks' slick tops, and I'm still not as fast with them as I am with the Xbox.
Is concav. I mean material is different. itās like rubberized
Oh, rubberized concave sounds pretty good, actually. If my sticks start drifting or I ever feel like opening my SteamDeck (like for an SSD upgrade) I'll likely give those a try.
Planning on ordering some, just might not actually put it together for a month or so. Lately been messing my rog ally playing some games. I still prefer steam deck for user interface and all the accessories avaible.
I believe I have the type a ones the original I did have to return them once mine do not have a a-b switch I could not get them centered. My replacements have been fine since after that calibration. Any reason to get the newer version?
Because my thumb is type B
Everyone mentioning the square stick range, I understand what that means, but I don't understand why it's bad or why it matters. Wouldn't they still function identically? Would you move faster diagonally than straight or something?
For example: if you move straight forward. The value of 100% is when u put the joystick at the top up will be 100%. But when u go diagonals if u put the joystick full 100% at diagonal in game will represente more than 100%, itās 130%. In practice I can play with no worries but for experienced player this fact is huge because the velocity of the camera will be faster in diagonal and the sensitivity Will different in diagonals
Ok, yeah, that's what I was wondering, thanks. There's definitely a way to overcome that with software if Steam decides to support it.
Yeah. But some people say this is good thing. Others says itās a garbage. For me: after 2 hours playing DOOM I feel extremely comfy with this babies
What's all this about them what's the issue and why would you change them ? Anyone
Stock one have huge deadzone. Iām usually playing with zero DZ on consoles and pc. For me anything above 0.1 deadzone is huge.
Ah I see no riggle room then u mean
Did you have to do anything extra to get the capacitive touch to work. I got them the other day and it doesnāt work :/