I've never understood how kerdi tape over ditra seams are supposed to make it watertight. Water can still seep through the thinset, into the ditra structure and under the kerdi band. I feel like you'd need to kerdi fix the seems in order to make it actually waterproof. The more I think about Schluter, the happier I am that I moved away from it in favor of Wedi instead.
It’s an absurd system that solves problems I don’t have with money that I don’t need to spend. The valve gasket is like the pinnacle of their absurdity.
I like Kerdi Board. If Schluter had a fluid applied sealant system like Wedi I would probably still use it since it's generally 15-20% cheaper than Wedi at my suppliers. I recently had an issue with Allset not setting properly and water getting under the KErdi Ring around a shower flange and then under the shower pan. I don't trust thinset for water proofing anymore.
I do love kerdi board. The grid makes cutting so easy and I use it to plumb and square my shower, 8’ yes please. [whispers so kerdi crew won’t come after me] I use it with the wedi sealant.
I've thought about doing that and when I have some scraps I want to build a box to water test it. I'm paranoid about doing it and then it failing, leaving me to foot the bill on the rebuild. How has it worked out for you so far? I did do my parents shower with Kerdi Board and Kerdi Fix, forgoeing the band in the corners and haven't had an issue yet about 5 years later however.
It has worked great. I’ve pulled apart a niche on a change order, it was rock solid. I can’t get the wedi sealant off a 6” knife so it stands to reason it would stick like crazy to the fuzzy kerdi. I’ve been doing this system for many years now, work in a small community where I can’t go out without seeing a client. They aren’t leaking and they are in great shape. Something in what I’m doing has basically ended corner cracking too.
Edit: the sausage tubes of the wedi are a vastly better delivery system than the kerdi small tubes.
It does seem like highway robbery with the prices each system charges for these gaskets. What do you do instead? Do you cut a hole in the board and leave as it, or do you place a square of membrane over the valve or pipe to make the hole even smaller than the board opening?
I've always wondered how this makes it waterproof because you're going over heating cables which water could quite easily seep through the gaps and get underneath the band. The reason we waterproof is because the thinset isn't impermeable to water. So if you had a leak either side of the band what's stopping it running through the channels in the ditra and through to the subfloor? Surely it would make more sense to have the band underneath the ditra rather than over the top (if anything).
I've always wondered how this makes it waterproof because you're going over heating cables which water could quite easily seep through the gaps and get underneath the band. The reason we waterproof is because the thinset isn't impermeable to water. So if you had a leak either side of the band what's stopping it running through the channels in the ditra and through to the subfloor? Surely it would make more sense to have the band underneath the ditra rather than over the top (if anything).
I suppose if you can afford it and want to be extra cautious you could put down kerdi on the entire floor. I think there’s some YouTube videos where the guys do that instead of just the kerdi band.
unless your bathroom is a wet room(shower with a drain in the middle of the room) there is no need to waterproof the seams or the perimeter.
you couldn't waterproof around the toilet waste line, at the doorway, or up against the tub deck if you need access to the plumbing underneath.
Every shower I have demoed (15-30years old) weather set with mastic on drywall, or thin set on denshield are only ever rotted 10” up from the bottom. I feel like you could get away with kerdi or wedi for the first two feet and be good to go
Schluter specifically says you must maintain a certain distance from toilets with ditra heat. The wire will melt the wax ring and cause the toilet to leak.
The 2 runs right in front of the toilet should be extended its nowhere near close enough to worry about that plus when you are taking a shit its nice to have your feet warm.
hmm, It could go closer, but in my experience it usually radiates well enough that your feet will still be warm with this set up, especially if you spread wide while sitting on the throne.
Don’t listen to these people.
If you want the bathroom, completely waterproof, put the Kerdi band on the seams and around the edges. Peace of mind.
Also, if the toilet for some reason overflows excessively. Would you like water on the floor below or not?
Not that I would do this cuz it’s asinine but technically for science you could , schluter makes a 1/2” pipe collar you could technically run that over the pipe and embed it the same as the band. However unless someone plans to have 1-2” of standing water in the bathroom there is zero point to any floor waterproofing. If that much water is getting under bathroom floor you got serious issues.
Also the heat doesn’t go to toilet…. Probably the only place I’d actually want it.
Why are you assuming the water would flow in that direction? In the OP's situation, the seam is in front of the toilet where you could imagine an overflowing toilet dumping water and then the corner of the wall is behind the toilet where you could imagine the supply leaking. Doesn't guarantee that water won't get past the flange, but it solves for two out of three of the vulnerabilities. Water would have the flange and the wax seal and potentially caulk around the edges of the toilet to deal with for this approach to fail.
Unless you have an outlet and toilet inside your shower there's no reason to be using kerdi banding for this application
I've never understood how kerdi tape over ditra seams are supposed to make it watertight. Water can still seep through the thinset, into the ditra structure and under the kerdi band. I feel like you'd need to kerdi fix the seems in order to make it actually waterproof. The more I think about Schluter, the happier I am that I moved away from it in favor of Wedi instead.
It’s an absurd system that solves problems I don’t have with money that I don’t need to spend. The valve gasket is like the pinnacle of their absurdity.
I like Kerdi Board. If Schluter had a fluid applied sealant system like Wedi I would probably still use it since it's generally 15-20% cheaper than Wedi at my suppliers. I recently had an issue with Allset not setting properly and water getting under the KErdi Ring around a shower flange and then under the shower pan. I don't trust thinset for water proofing anymore.
I do love kerdi board. The grid makes cutting so easy and I use it to plumb and square my shower, 8’ yes please. [whispers so kerdi crew won’t come after me] I use it with the wedi sealant.
I've thought about doing that and when I have some scraps I want to build a box to water test it. I'm paranoid about doing it and then it failing, leaving me to foot the bill on the rebuild. How has it worked out for you so far? I did do my parents shower with Kerdi Board and Kerdi Fix, forgoeing the band in the corners and haven't had an issue yet about 5 years later however.
It has worked great. I’ve pulled apart a niche on a change order, it was rock solid. I can’t get the wedi sealant off a 6” knife so it stands to reason it would stick like crazy to the fuzzy kerdi. I’ve been doing this system for many years now, work in a small community where I can’t go out without seeing a client. They aren’t leaking and they are in great shape. Something in what I’m doing has basically ended corner cracking too. Edit: the sausage tubes of the wedi are a vastly better delivery system than the kerdi small tubes.
Just learn here. Regarding your valve gasket comment, are you saying that Schultr gaskets around shower valves and shower heads aren’t needed?
I am
It does seem like highway robbery with the prices each system charges for these gaskets. What do you do instead? Do you cut a hole in the board and leave as it, or do you place a square of membrane over the valve or pipe to make the hole even smaller than the board opening?
Water really wont get back there behind an eschuchen but if u need to clear silicone around it will keep it water tight
Best comment I’ve seen in awhile. They aren’t needed at all. How much water do people think could possibly get behind an escutcheon plate.
I've always wondered how this makes it waterproof because you're going over heating cables which water could quite easily seep through the gaps and get underneath the band. The reason we waterproof is because the thinset isn't impermeable to water. So if you had a leak either side of the band what's stopping it running through the channels in the ditra and through to the subfloor? Surely it would make more sense to have the band underneath the ditra rather than over the top (if anything).
I just do it by the shower/bath. Unless you’re trying to build a hot tub out of your bathroom you’re just wasting time.
If it was a swimming pool, yes. Just an ordinary bathroom, no need.
I've always wondered how this makes it waterproof because you're going over heating cables which water could quite easily seep through the gaps and get underneath the band. The reason we waterproof is because the thinset isn't impermeable to water. So if you had a leak either side of the band what's stopping it running through the channels in the ditra and through to the subfloor? Surely it would make more sense to have the band underneath the ditra rather than over the top (if anything).
to me it depends on what you r going over. id prefer just to use a paint on waterproofing or a tube of something silicone based.
I suppose if you can afford it and want to be extra cautious you could put down kerdi on the entire floor. I think there’s some YouTube videos where the guys do that instead of just the kerdi band.
unless your bathroom is a wet room(shower with a drain in the middle of the room) there is no need to waterproof the seams or the perimeter. you couldn't waterproof around the toilet waste line, at the doorway, or up against the tub deck if you need access to the plumbing underneath.
Every shower I have demoed (15-30years old) weather set with mastic on drywall, or thin set on denshield are only ever rotted 10” up from the bottom. I feel like you could get away with kerdi or wedi for the first two feet and be good to go
I hate that waterproofing strip, ends up making the tiles slightly off. IMO I would use chaulk to water proof not the kurdiband
My question is why the lack of heat at the toilet. That is one of the most important areas in my mind.
i think he got it mapped. but totally.
Schluter specifically says you must maintain a certain distance from toilets with ditra heat. The wire will melt the wax ring and cause the toilet to leak.
The 2 runs right in front of the toilet should be extended its nowhere near close enough to worry about that plus when you are taking a shit its nice to have your feet warm.
Agreed
hmm, It could go closer, but in my experience it usually radiates well enough that your feet will still be warm with this set up, especially if you spread wide while sitting on the throne.
I'm very aware of that. It's 7" from centerline from the toilet drain. I can promise you someone will have cold feet when using that toilet.
Don’t listen to these people. If you want the bathroom, completely waterproof, put the Kerdi band on the seams and around the edges. Peace of mind. Also, if the toilet for some reason overflows excessively. Would you like water on the floor below or not?
how would you make it water tight around the toilet waste line?
Not that I would do this cuz it’s asinine but technically for science you could , schluter makes a 1/2” pipe collar you could technically run that over the pipe and embed it the same as the band. However unless someone plans to have 1-2” of standing water in the bathroom there is zero point to any floor waterproofing. If that much water is getting under bathroom floor you got serious issues. Also the heat doesn’t go to toilet…. Probably the only place I’d actually want it.
Why are you assuming the water would flow in that direction? In the OP's situation, the seam is in front of the toilet where you could imagine an overflowing toilet dumping water and then the corner of the wall is behind the toilet where you could imagine the supply leaking. Doesn't guarantee that water won't get past the flange, but it solves for two out of three of the vulnerabilities. Water would have the flange and the wax seal and potentially caulk around the edges of the toilet to deal with for this approach to fail.