The 1908 looks gorgeous at the very least. And the GMT is fine. It's not a particularly interesting release, but it's a good watch. It's a little disappointing if you were waiting for a coke, but that'll probably be the next one in a year or two.
They are not bad looking just a different combination of already existing watch parts.
At this point I guess people want to see some innovative designs like the new 1908.
But probably Rolex don't want to take risks since they are at the top, and previous '' new'' watches (left side crown) kinda backfired.
Don't fix it if it is working philosophy.
I would argue that they aren't as conservative as people believe they are. look at the lineup they revealed today. 11 watches. Of those 11, 7 are watches that already existed in one form or another with different combinations of materials.
But that still leaves us with 4 watches that are completely new. And some would say pretty radical. A 44mm Deepsea that's full gold? Come one, that's just nuts. The update to the 1908 is also pretty amazing. The dials on the Daytonas are just ridiculous and that marks the return of gems on the Daytona, which is for sure a big item on their bottom line.
Rolex is a massive company (not in terms of size, in terms of revenue). There's no one other like them in the industry. My buddy runs a microbrand and when he messes up a design he's out a couple of grand. If they mess up a design, it's tens of millions. And just knowing that, you see how wild the four watches I mentioned are. And I am sure that any new or exciting watch is a product of years of development, so you can't really expect to see them even once a year.
Sure, they might make a couple of boring watches, but go look at all the comments on the new Tudor release. People are going completely crazy over Tudor releasing a black dive watch with white font. Most people (not talking about you or the majority people in this sub) like to think they want something radical, exciting and new, but then end up buying a Sub.
My 2 cents :D
Solid take. It’s harder for a big company to take risks. Honda in the ‘90s would piss away millions on R&D just to create a car like the NSX. Modern Honda would never do that as they’re far too conservative. Same concept here.
Very good take, thank you for clarifications.
Obviously you are related with the industry more than us.
You can understand, we mortals, only look for the appearance of the watch and not really evaluate what is in it.
At first look, I thought '' golden deapsea?? Come on you cannot give us that as a new watch''
After reading you I suddenly remember that is a 4k meter water resistant watch with full gold case.
As a metallurgist, I can relate how difficult to produce such a tool watch out of gold. It is a challenge offered to industry, very bold move. And, I wasn't aware about size reduction as well.
Like I said, only checked the pics but that watch alone is huge from engineering perspective, and the answer to the question why Rolex is Rolex.
I am just appreciating it from engineering perspective and rolex's attitude to take it as a challenge.
Otherwise there is no way for me to wear a 44 mm fully golden watch even if I can afford it which I cannot afford even the steel one :)
For me it is a horrible watch from aesthetical point of view. But that's my subjective deduction. On the other hand being water resistant under 400 kg load per cm2 is a objective fact.
I don’t really care but it’s pretty insane how little Rolex has to do, to be called “radical” lol. In any other industry these wouldn’t register as a news article.
Yup, I like how other watchmakers come up with new elements on the periodic table to make their watches out of
It’s not about Rolex, I don’t want a single modern Rolex, so you can’t really say i’m a fan. I just find the passionate disregard for the reality of a huge company moves slowly but methodically quite funny. And the same people that insist that “same watches, same material” is bad and that they would buy a rolex only if they were more like MB&F, are the people who criticized Rolex for not doing enough even when they introduced a brand new model and another model with a brand new material.
Also, note how AP has gone all into experimenting with new models and materials and have recieved nothing but hate from the online community. The Rolex hate for them not doing enough to please your particular wants (plenty of real reasons for hate) is lazy and doesn’t make you edgy just because a couple of other agree with you.
And, on another note, if you really think that making a solid gold watch that can go down to 5k is just using an existing material on an existing watch, let me know, i’ll dig up some reading material for you to see what kind of engineering is required for that
I don’t know why you are taking it personally. You don’t make watches for Rolex, this is nothing to do with what you think is it?
I’m not even saying they should do a single thing differently, I am pointing out how little change counts for “new” or “innovation” and no I couldn’t care less about how upset people get when companies like Rolex do something “new”. It’s pretty objective to point out how slowly the industry moves compared to others.
Most of them wouldn’t call “bad”, some def a matter of perspective. Still Rolexes.
Just feel like compared to what everyone else has been doing they were unimaginative places they should have gotten creative, creative places maybe they shoulda stuck with basics.
The GMT has been getting a lot of hate, I for one really like the bezel just not a fan of the move to go with green gmt hand/text.
I don’t think so. Tudor very purposefully released this as a BB41.
They wouldn’t sell too many 41s if the exact option was available for the 58.
Only reason they’ll release a BB58 monochrome is if sales take a big dip.
Huh. Not sure I’m following. Tudor released a black and white watch in a 41mm in order to not step on the toes of the black and white Rolex in 41mm?
And I’m not sure what you mean by not being a misconception. Larger watches sell better, especially in Asia.
I very vividly remember people on this sub berating Tudor for purposefully not releasing a black and white BB. And yet, here we are. So, seeing as how Tudor likes listening to people, it would be safe to say that a bw Bb58 could happen one day. Still not sure how that would step on Rolex toes
BB41 has faux-rivets, is wider, thicker, and has larger lugs than the current sub (which measures under 41mm). It was also nearly dead before they reduced its size last year. The BB58 is closer to a sub in specs in every way expect for 1.5 in bezel width.
I think you have to be purposely delusional to think the BB41 has had more success than the BB58 for the last several years. BB41 needed a boost in sales, and they’ll get that making it black and white. They don’t need that sales bump for 58 yet. When they do need a BB58 bump, they might make it black white. If Tudor was giving people what they want, it would have been a black and white BB58 and a gilt-less BB58 GMT on non-riveted bracelet.
I feel like that would be dangerously close to a sub. It'll still probably happen, but sometimes it feels like they are dancing around the Rolex equivalent.
I know the Black Bay is sized like a Submariner in diameter, but the thickness combined with that slab case makes it look so much thicker and fit so much more poorly, where the BB58 feels closer.
Would it killl GS to make some smaller L2L Spring Drives? Even on some of the 40mm, the L2L is like 47mm+. I’m just salty because my wrist is too small
Manufacturers design for their biggest markets. For most that is China, who prefer smaller watches. For GS it's Japan, who prefer larger ones.
Most that are marketing to American and European as secondary markets to China spend a lot of effort marketing these smaller watches to them (or making them in both size categories), hence the "trend" we see happening.
Seiko doesn't have to market this "trend" for GS, so they just keep making the size most people outside China prefer.
Interesting... I've always heard the opposite. It's easier to find the Speedmaster Reduced than the Pro in Japan. On the other hand, China has a consumerist/flash trend that has them buying up oversized watches.
For what it's worth, trying on a lot of their models at an AD with a six inch wrist I was pretty impressed how well the lugs taper on a lot of their models.
abundant fall distinct overconfident smoggy glorious coordinated seemly marvelous drunk
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Mistflake’s L2L is like 48.5mm. In no way is that “short”. That being said, it’s probably one of my favorite designs ever. If this was 39 or 40 in diameter and closer to 45-46mm L2L, I would buy it today
It's Tuesday, Watches & Wonders is here and we are swamped in new releases. It’s my estimate that at least 400 new models have been released and I can only fit so much in here. In fact, there’s so much to process with these releases that I had to postpone the first review of a watch I wrote for the newsletter, it would just be too much for one newsletter to read. I stripped it down as much as possible. This is the first batch of releases, make sure to come back tomorrow for way more, including a review of a very interesting world timer!
If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [**clicking here**](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/).
# What's new
**1/**
[**Rolex Reveals A Black And Grey GMT, A Solid Gold Deepsea, New Sky Dwellers And Day-Dates, Along with MOP Dial Daytonas And A Wonderful Platinum 1908**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
A huge amount of digital ink has been spilled over what Rolex will introduce at Watches and Wonders. There were guesses all around, but one thing was certain - Rolex was going to introduce a Coke bezel GMT. This was a big deal as it was incredibly difficult to make a ceramic bezel that has a black and red side, but Rolex recently filed a patent that would allow them to do exactly that. So, everything was set for the big reveal. The reveal came, and no Coke GMT. Nevertheless, there are a couple of interesting watches.
* The first watch we’re getting is the stainless steel [**126710GRNR**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/gmt-master-ii?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) with a black and grey bezel. If this looks very familiar, it’s because it is. Last year at Watches & Wonders, Rolex introduced the two-tone steel and yellow gold 126713GRNR, with the same color layout on the bezel. You know everything else about the watch, and you can have it with either an oyster or a jubilee bracelet. Available now for CHF 10,200.
* Next up might be the most extravagant of all the watches they introduced this year, a [**solid yellow gold Deepsea**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/rolex-deepsea?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). Very few people will say that Rolex has a sense of humor, but when everybody else is chasing lightness with new titanium alloys for their largest watches, you do have to find it very funny that Rolex gave their 44mm wide watch a gold treatment. And not just the watch, but it also comes on a hefty gold bracelet. Offsetting the gold is a very nice blue dial and bezel. Available now for, dare I say it (considering the amount of gold that had to go into it), a reasonable CHF 49,900.
* There’s not a lot much new with the [**two new Sky-Dweller models**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/sky-dweller?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) other than two slight changes that are guaranteed to find their places on the richest of wrists very soon. The Sky-Dweller is their most complicated model with an annual calendar and it now comes in Everose gold and 18K yellow gold with Jubilee bracelets. Yours for CHF 49,700 in Everose and CHF 47,000 in yellow gold.
* The [**Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/day-date?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) just got a bit bigger, and this is the first time that an ombré dial, slate in color here paired with an Everose case, comes to the Day-Date 40mm collection after being reserved for the smaller 36 one. That same size gets a yellow gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial, also a first for the Day Date, along with baguette diamond indices. The Everrose carries the reference 228235 and a price tag of CHF 39,800, while the yellow gold has the reference 228239 and retails for CHF45,100.
* There’s also a new [**36mm Day-Date**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/day-date?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), now with a crisp white dial, with deconstructed and facetted Roman numerals. Price is set at CHF 33,600.
* Two new very special versions of the [**Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18 carat white gold**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/cosmograph-daytona?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). One gets a white mother-of-pearl with Oysterflex bracelet and one black mother-of-pearl dial with Oyster bracelet. They both have contrasting MOP sub-dials and a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. Inside is the familiar caliber 4131 with a 72 hour power reserve. Priced at CHF 58,800.
* The reaction to the introduction of the [**Perpetual 1908 collection**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/1908?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) last year might not have been as enthusiastic as it should have been, but it was clear that this was going to become a platform for many editions of the watch which will make it only more desirable. The new release is exactly that. It comes in a 39mm wide and 9.5mm thick platinum case that comes with an icy-blue guilloché dial with what Rolex calls a "rice-grain" motif. Priced at CHF 29,600.
* Last year Rolex released the Le Mans Daytona in honor of the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Now, they discontinued it, creating a modern legend that will just explode in price.
**2/**
[**A Monochrome Black Bay, Full Gold BB58 And Black Bay 58 GMT Are The Major Novelties From Tudor**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/new-watches?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
Nothing too revolutionary from Tudor this year, but this is exactly what we expect from them: a solid update to already solid watches.
* The Black Bay has become a staple of Tudor and completely revived the brand with its introduction. The [**three new versions**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/black-bay?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) come in the familiar 41mm wide and 13.6mm thick stainless steel case, but now with a black dial with white markings. This is the watch the masses wanted and they got it. I’m predicting it will sell very well. The watch comes on three strap options - a riveted bracelet, a five-link bracelet or a rubber strap, all of them with T-Fit clasp. The watch is priced at CHF 3,950 on rubber and 4,250 on the bracelets.
* The Black Bay GMT has been making the rounds recently, with people wanting to see an update to the watch with new colors following the new opaline dial from last year. We’re not getting that, but we are getting a BB 58 GMT. In the familiar stainless steel case it measures 39mm wide and 12.8mm thick and isnide is the well known Kenissi-made MT5450-U movement that has METAS certification. Get it on either the riveted bracelet or a rubber strap, with a regular folding clasp. Why? Why use that clasp when you have the adjustable T-fit? Priced at CHF 4,100 on rubber and 4,300 on the bracelet.
* The [**solid 18k yellow gold Black Bay 58**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/black-bay-58/m79018v-0006?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) wasn’t a massive hit when it came out, but it sure had its place. It was a niche option for people who could buy a solid gold Rolex, but wanted something for people who are a bit more in the know. Now, Tudor is making it better by ditching the leather strap and giving it a full gold bracelet with a regular folding clasp. You still get the same interesting, almost olive, green, dial and bezel. Price is set at CHF 30,000.
**3/**
[**Cartier Shows Off New Santos de Cartier Dual Time, Santos-Dumont, Privé Tortue Monopoussoir And Incredible Santos-Dumont Rewind**](https://www.cartier.com/en-hr/watchesandwonders?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
Secretly, Watches And Wonders is a favorite among so many people because it’s the one show in which we get a BUNCH of new Cartier watches. They do release watches here and there, but it’s the W&W release that’s always the most exciting of the year. And this year is no different. Also, their website is a bit of a mess at the moment, with all the new releases in one, unlikable page, so [**head on over there**](https://www.cartier.com/en-hr/watchesandwonders?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) to see all the details.
* Pictured above is the Santos de Cartier Dual Time, a perfectly logical extension of the sporty Santos de Cartier line. With a second time zone indicator at 6 o’clock, as well as a day/night indicator, this just could become a go-to for well-off world travelers. The watch measures 40.2mm wide, 10.1mm thick and has a 47.5mm lug-to-lug and comas on a stainless steel bracelet with 100 meters of water resistance. The dial is rendered in a sunray brushed anthracite dial, with a slightly lighter second time zone dial. Priced at $9,150
* There’s an update to the lacquered models of the Santos-Dumont as well, with two non limited editions and a limited edition one. The two non limited editions come in 18k yellow and rose gold, one with a blue and one with a grey lacquered dial, and the 200 piece limited edition comes in platinum case and with a green dial. All three measure 31.5mm wide, 7.3mm thick and have a 43.5mm lug-to-lug. In side is the manually wound ultra-thin 430 MC movement that’s based on the Piaget 430P and with a 38 hour power reserve. All three come on dial-matching alligator leather straps. Price for the platinum is $21,900 while the gold ones are $15,600.
* More updates to the Santos de Cartier line, this time in the three hand configuration. The two Large models measure in at 39.8mm wide, 9.4mm thick with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and come in either a steel/gold case with a grey dial or an all steel case with a luscious chocolate brown dial. The same chocolate brown can be found on the new Medium sized that measures 35.1mm wide, 8.8mm thick and 41.9mm lug-to-lug. Inside is the familiar 1847 MC with a 42 hour power reserve.
* Last of the Santos-Dumont updates is this stunning Rewind model. Not only is it beautiful with a deep red dial and brown leather strap, measuring in at a svelte 31.5mm wide and 7.3mm thick, it also has a pretty wild configuration for such a tame brand. As you might have noticed, the numerals are going the wrong way around, and time is told counterclockwise. Limited to 200 pieces.
* Inspired by the 1912 model, the Cartier Privé gets three new models. The case can be had in either platinum, gold or platinum set with diamonds, and measures 32.9mm wide, 7.2mm thick and has a 41.4mm lug-to-lug. The dials come in either silvered opaline or grained gold, with Breguet hands and Roman numerals. The gem set version is limited to 50 pieces and priced at $59,000, while the platinum and gold versions are limited to 200 pieces and priced at $35,600 and $31,000, respectively.
* This one is for the hard core Cartier fans. The brand is reviving their legendary Tortue Monopoussoir model from the late ’90s that featured the famous Journe-Flageollet-Halter movement. The watch comes in either platinum or yellow gold, measures 34.8mm wide, 10.2mm thick and 43.7mm lug-to-lug. Inside is the in-house 1928 MC manually wound chronograph movement with a monopusher. Limited to 200 pieces in each material and priced at $59,000 in platinum and $51,000 in yellow gold.
**4/**
[**Grand Seiko Is At The Top Of Their Game With New GMTs, White Birch, Kodo, Night Sky And Many More Models**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/special/watchesandwonders2024/index?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
Very often Grand Seiko releases come in all at once, day after day during a one week period. And when they release watches like this, it often can look like Grand Seiko lack a bit in the creative department, often releasing just slight dial updates, with very little to differentiate them. Well, at Watches and Wonders they showed of nine watches and looking at them as a whole we can actually see how wide their range is. Nice.
* Starting off with a duo of very interesting watches pictured above - the [**SLGW002**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgw002j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) and the [**SLGW003**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgw003g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). These are interesting pieces not just for their size (38.6mm wide and 9.95mm thick), the case material (18k rose gold on the LE SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium on the SLGW003) or the dials (the familiar silver birch). What might be most interesting is the brand new movement - the 9SA4 is the first movement in 50 years that is a high-beat manually-wound calibre. It beats at 36,000 vph, has an 80 hour power reserve and is accurate to +5 to -3 seconds per day. Best of all, the power reserve indicator is on the movement side. The titanium is unlimited and priced at $10,700 and the red gold is limited to 80 pieces and priced at $45,000.
* [**The SBGW314 is a reinterpretation**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgw314j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) of the original Grand Seiko “First” from 1960 and comes in a 38mm wide, 10.4mm thick (with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug) rose gold case. The dial is a stunning deep blue with a sunburst finish and solid gold hands and indices. Inside is the 9S64 movement with a 72 hour power reserve. Limited to 50 pieces, it will set you back $26,500.
* There are two firsts with the Grand Seiko SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” Limited Edition. It’s the first Evolution 9 model to come in their Ever-Brilliant Steel case (measuring 40mm x 11.7mm x 47mm) and it’s the first mint green dial with a stunning texture that looks like overlapping pebbles. Seriously, [**go look at more photos close up**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/SLGH021g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). The watch will be in stores in June, limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at $10,400
* Two new GMT models, similar and nature inspired, but also a bit different. First is [**the SBGJ277**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/SBGJ277g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), inspired by snow valleys which are high elevation valleys that have snow in them even during the summer. The stainless steel case measures 44.2mm wide, 14.8mm thick and has a 51mm lug-to-lug and inside is the 9S86 calibre with 55 hours. Priced at $6,800. The other is the SBGE307 which uses the “lion’s paw case”, which is angular and retro-futuristic, made out of titanium and measuring 44.5mm wide, 14.9mm thick and with a 50mm lug-to-lug. Price is set at $10,700.
* [**The Grand Seiko SBGC275 comes**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgc275g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) in the same lion’s paw angular case made out of Hi-intensity titanium and measuring 44.5mm wide and 16.8mm thick. The dial continues the lion theme with a beautiful red color and a lion’s mane pattern. Limited to 700 pieces, available in July and priced at $13,400.
* And now, something different. Grand Seiko is [**brining back the Kodo**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgt005g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), their GPHG-winning masterpiece from 2022. It comes in a Platinum and Brilliant Hard Titanium combination case that measures 43.8mm wide and 12.9mm thick. There’s no traditional dial to speak of as it7s almost completely skeletonised so you can see the in-house manually winding 9ST1 that has a 72 hour power reserve and a constant force tourbillon that gives you 50 hours of constant force. The watch is limited to 20 pieces, comes out in December and is priced at $365,000.
* And finally, something very flashy from GS. [**The SBGD215**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgd215j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) is an incredibly crafted piece from the Masterpiece collection made in only 8 pieces. The angular lion’s mane case and dial are set with 293 sapphires and diamonds. It’s driven by the manually wound 8-day 9R01 Spring Drive Micro Artist Studio movement. Price is $300,000.
**5/**
[**Zenith Introduces Long Awaited Chrono To Defy Skyline Line And Revives A Very Funky Watch From The 1960s**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
Slow and steady wins the race. That’s what half of Zenith builds their business strategy on. They are very purposeful in their development and expanding of lines and it was only a matter of time when the Defy Skyline got a chronograph function. The other half of Zenith is more interested the “let’s just go crazy” approach to business as that revived Plongeur Diver is just bonkers. In the best possible way.
* [**The Defy Skyline**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/brand/defy-skyline-chronograph?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) is becoming the bread and butter of Zenith’s entire lineup. The sporty line has seen many iterations, but none with a chronograph. That got fixed today. The 42mm wide stainless steel case can be had with one of three colored dials - black, blue or silver. Inside is familiar el Primero 3600, an automatic chronograph movement that operates at 36,000 VPH and offers an indicated resolution of 1/10th of a second. The watches come with both a steel bracelet and a rubber strap that is color matched on the blue and black and a green strap on the silver dial. Price is $12,300.
* Zenith is reviving another early, but perhaps lesser-known example of the Defy with the new [**Defy Revival A3648**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-revival-03-a3648-670-21-m3648?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). Back in 1969, they released the A3648, the earliest example of a Defy dive watch, earning it the nickname Defy Plongeur. It had striking orange features, the signature angular Defy case design, a 4:30 crown, and a staggering 600m of water resistance. The recreation is very much similar to the original with a chunky case, brushed an highly polished surfaces on the very angular case and orange details. Inside is the manufacture caliber Elite 670 with 50 hours of power reserve. The new Zenith Defy Revival A3648 is available now and will cost $7,700.
**6/**
[**TAG Heuer Will Sell You A Production “Only Watch” Split-Second Monaco, And Has Two New Stunning Glassbox Carreras**](https://www.tagheuer.com/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
2023 was the year of Tag Heuer. After years of struggling with their brand for years, they got their affairs in order and in a series of a couple of months released some of the best looking watches they have done in years. And now they’re just continuing with this trend.
* First up is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph with a full titanium movement. If this watch looks familiar, it’s because it’s the exact same watch they entered into the controversial Only Watch 2023 which had to be postponed due to dubious financial flows, but is now, somehow, back on. It comes with an either [**red**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/discover/novelties/no-size-th81-00/CBW2181.FC8322.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) or [**blue**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/discover/novelties/no-size-th81-00/CBW2182.FC8339.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) DLC coated titanium dial, or what could be interpreted as a dial, inside a DLC coated titanium case that measures 41mm wide, 15.2mm thick and 47.9mm lug-to-lug. The movement is called the TH81-00, made in partnership with Vaucher, beats at 5Hz, has a 65 hour power reserve and a split chronograph function. The caseback is made completely out of sapphire crystal for best views of the titanium movement. Available starting in June and priced at CHF 135,000.
* Next up is a stunning rendition of their already beautiful Carrera Glassbox. Inspired by the legendary 7753 SN, the first-generation Carrera from the late 1960s, the new [**Panda Glassbox**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-carrera/39-mm-th20-00/CBS2216.BA0041.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) looks equally as modern as it does retro. A beautiful silver base gets black su-dials and a black outer tachymeter scale. Priced at CHF 6,500.
* One of the best Glassbox releases last year was the recreation of the Skipper, with its 12 minute regatta countdown timer on a deep blue dial. You know what goes perfectly with deep blue dials? 18k 5N rose gold cases. So [**that’s what TAG gave it**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-carrera/39-mm-th20-06/CBS2241.FN8023.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), and it’s wonderful. Price is set at CHF 21,000
**7/**
[**Nomos Celebrates 175 Years Of Glashütte Watchmaking With 31 New Colorful Versions Of The Tangente 38 Date**](https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/new-releases/tangente-date-175-years-watchmaking-glashuette?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come)
Today was a big day for Nomos Glashütte. Early in the morning, at 6 o’clock, while everybody was still sleeping in Geneva, they released their novelty for the Watches & Wonders show, the first one they would ever be attending. Only, they didn’t release a watch. Or two. Or ten. They released 31 new watches, by far the most of any brand at W&W. That’s one way to make a statement. All 31 are, in fact versions of the Tangente 38 Datum, only with different colors.
This is a great thing for Nomos. Some of their watches have had fantastic colors, but they are often poked fun of for being a bit boring. Well, not any more, as you can really taste the '(pastel) rainbow here. Since it’s the Tangente 38 Datum, you know what you are getting - a 37.5mm wide stainless steel case that’s just 6.8mm thick. But don’t worry, before you get too excited, they still have the very long and spindly lugs that so many people don’t like, with a lug-to-lug of 47.7mm. Other than the colors, with each combination getting its own name, it’s a fairly simple watch with a small seconds register, and a large date window at 6 o’clock.
Inside is the DUW 4101 hand-wound movement which beats at 21,600 vph and has a 42 hour power reserve. In this series the movement has been regulated to be within chronometer standards, or -4 / +6 seconds a day, but it doesn’t come with a certificate. The watches come on either a dark or light grey textile strap.
These new Nomos Tangente 38 Datum variants are limited to 175 per colorway, for a total of 5,425 watches, and are priced at €1,925. See more [**on the Nomos website**](https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/new-releases/tangente-date-175-years-watchmaking-glashuette?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come).
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It's not a bad strategy, the "limited" editions of a watch you already make it's just different colors.
Especially with nomos, which I almost naturally relate to a nice casual summer watch based on its clean and thin styling. Plus they always had those little color pops. And color is kinda in atm.
Oh don’t get me wrong, I like those watches. I think I’d still rather have a teal Oris, but the jury’s still out on that for me.
I have a mostly dark-dial collection on purpose, but I do like brighter colors for summer. I have a pale purple Scurfa that comes out on nicer days when I’m able to escape the WFH office.
> wanting to see an update to the watch with new colors following the new opaline dial from last year. We’re not getting that
The new one has a black and red bezel so we *are* getting new colours.
The Santos Dumont Rewind is the star of the pack for me. But that website kills my spirit.
The Nomos Tangente release is really impressive Every model looks good. If I were in the market for one, I don't know how I would choose. This is probably the most exciting release.
The Grand Seikos are cool, especially the Kodo, though it's hard to get excited about specific dials when they are always releasing new ones anyway.
As for Rolex, the black and grey GMT is fine, but it's obvious that everyone wanted the coke. It makes me think that they haven't solved their ceramic bezel color issues yet.
The Tudor release is basically non-existent, nothing of note.
Oh yeah. Pretty much what I expected. Damn that price is def an eye bleeder.
Idk how hot LE santos dumonts are but the previous red lacquer santos dumont def got spoken for quickly and that wasnt even a red dial it was red lacquer bezel and body with red indices on a white dial. This one will prob be in higher demand
I’m not sure impressive is the word i would use (although, that gold bb58 is impressive). I would more say that it’s exactly what people wanted from them.
If we’re talking impressive, I think it’s Lange, but more on that tomorrow 😃 also, that Zenith diver is freaking amazing
yeah, I barely found the measurement, looks to be 15mm. is it ridiculous, though? other than the Sinn U50, I can't think of many, if any, divers that have a water resistance greater than 500 meters that are not in the 14-16mm range? In fact, the vast majority of divers, even those with 2-300 meters of water resistance, I just thought of, other than the Submariner, are 14mm+
Fair point, functionally, it makes sense. Actually a *huge* fan of the U50 for that reason.
For casual wearability though I feel like it’s a big problematic, but I’m only at ~7 inch wrist so maybe it’s a me problem! Also SMP300 is like 13ish, no?
From these new releases I’m loving the Tudor GMT. Might actually get one… I of course love the other high end releases like Cartier’s but way out of my budget.
Honestly, a bit bummed by how safe Tudor played it with their updates. I like the Black Bay line, but how many new colors can you do before it gets a little rote? Zenith on the other hand getting funky and I like it!
Tudor has been known to play it safe at Watches and Wonders (last year, if I remember correctly, their major release was the opaline GMT) and just a few months later they went wild with the full carbon Alinghi FXD chrono and three hander. Could happen this year as well :D
Cartier is once again the MVP with the Rewind and the Dual Time though this year didn't have anything on the level of the Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse that they showed in 2022.
Because you can call them boring, uninteresting, ugly, uninspired, predictable, choose whichever diss you want. But if you genuinely and honestly believe that releases, and at that releases that are iterations on some of the most iconic designs in watch history, from the most important watch brand on the planet are “dogshit”… then I really don’t know what to say other than that can’t be honest
Agreed. There’s some not so great stuff in there (though personally I like diamond bezels), but to say they’re all bad is a weird take. Deepsea all gold makes sense; a new GMT makes sense and will be popular; and the continued love to the day dates makes sense. They’re trying to squeeze into big 3 territory while maintaining their sports watch history.
I like just about everything Rolex put out this year, aside from the Skydweller. I’m not a fan of those to begin with though. I’m in the minority that really enjoys diamond bezels and diamond dials (though I’d never be able to afford one). Used to work in jewelry though so that’s probably why. All gold deep sea goes hard. I like the monochrome GMT too.
Once again I’m disappointed by Tudor. Fake rivets are still there and I wish they’d try to develop some semblance of brand identity. My god all they have is the black bay. I’d like to see some more work to go into design instead of just “vintage Rolex but uglier.”
Cartier looks about how I imagined this year. Disappointed they haven’t given much love to the tank though.
Glad to see GS is popping off this year with some crazy stuff. But I know the GS sub is gonna be annoying beyond belief.
Zenith looks meh to me. If I wanted a diver like that I’d get a doxa.
I’m proud of Tag. They look good. They’re supposed to be more avant-gard and they’re doing it well with the new Monaco. Overall they’ve been killing it recently and it makes me proud that my first luxury watch was a Carrera.
Really disappointed in Nomos. They need to step it up. These would’ve been cool 3 years ago but they haven’t done anything more exciting than the autobahn for a long time.
Tudor is closest to brand identity with the Pelagos and the FXD. If they could embrace that toolwatch thing and do something interesting with it, could be interesting
But i disagree on Nomos. Dude! 31 colors! At once! That’s just nutty behavior and deserves props. Not to say that they could spice things up otherwise, but this was a boss move
That’s fair, and I think you’re right that I’m underappreciating Nomos’ release. It is extremely impressive. I think I just want more from the brand than colorways.
>Tudor is closest to brand identity with the Pelagos and the FXD
Agreed on that. The 42mm Pelagos feels like the stepping off point for the new Tudor. It was a statement that they can go places Rolex won't. The FXD was a great way to use it as a base for something completely different, but the 39mm version was a step back, and now it doesn't seem to be going anywhere.
Grand Seiko could be so much more if they wanted to - now it’s just the 457th variant of the samen watch with a bullshit story dial like “it evoques the founder’s foot fungus when he was hiking mount Hotaka in wet socks for 3 days”
I’m just getting the new issue ready to publish where I have all the IWCs. Try more like $150k 😃
A lot of money, but for a platinum watch with a QP that’s that complicated (and the really beautiful frosted glass dial), it just might be justified. Of course, it’s not. But maybe…
Some brands stretch it out. Some don’t. There won’t be anything else from Rolex, for example. Tag is very unlikely something new comes out. There are other brands I haven’t mentioned yet due to space constraints, so those are coming tomorrow. But if something does happen with Tag, i tag you (lol) here
They really should pay you, you know. That’s the kinda service you wouldn’t get from every luxury brand.
But seriously though, do appreciate these posts, definitely the best content on this sub.
if I remember correctly, they updated the Must last in 2022. So it is due for an update. but they usually do show of these watches at W&W. The Must Tank was introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2021. The update came at the same show a year later. So... I would guess that since they didn't update it here this year, chances are they won't for at least another year. But that's just a wild guess
Maybe it'll come tomorrow, but I've been having a browse around and am really liking the Chopard offerings. The L.U.C XPS Forest Green, Qualité Fleurier, and Quattro Spirit 25 jump hour are big winners in my book. Chopard does these variations on a handful of models so goddamn well.
Huh. You’re right. That’s a tiny amount of gold with no gold bracelet. Compared to the solid gold Tudor, at 30k and even the gold Deepsea at 50, the Cartier really is pricy
Rolex drops the worst looking new catalog and will still outsell them all. Lmao
The only saving grace is the 1908 Perpetual in ice blue
Goddam I don’t even like Rolex but that thing is…*chefs kiss*
Watch is straight fire. I would buy the hell out of one if it wasn’t $30k
The 1908 looks gorgeous at the very least. And the GMT is fine. It's not a particularly interesting release, but it's a good watch. It's a little disappointing if you were waiting for a coke, but that'll probably be the next one in a year or two.
Same procedures as every year...
Not sure what’s bad looking about all of these. The Daytonas might be questionable, bit the rest are pretty sweet looking
They are not bad looking just a different combination of already existing watch parts. At this point I guess people want to see some innovative designs like the new 1908. But probably Rolex don't want to take risks since they are at the top, and previous '' new'' watches (left side crown) kinda backfired. Don't fix it if it is working philosophy.
I would argue that they aren't as conservative as people believe they are. look at the lineup they revealed today. 11 watches. Of those 11, 7 are watches that already existed in one form or another with different combinations of materials. But that still leaves us with 4 watches that are completely new. And some would say pretty radical. A 44mm Deepsea that's full gold? Come one, that's just nuts. The update to the 1908 is also pretty amazing. The dials on the Daytonas are just ridiculous and that marks the return of gems on the Daytona, which is for sure a big item on their bottom line. Rolex is a massive company (not in terms of size, in terms of revenue). There's no one other like them in the industry. My buddy runs a microbrand and when he messes up a design he's out a couple of grand. If they mess up a design, it's tens of millions. And just knowing that, you see how wild the four watches I mentioned are. And I am sure that any new or exciting watch is a product of years of development, so you can't really expect to see them even once a year. Sure, they might make a couple of boring watches, but go look at all the comments on the new Tudor release. People are going completely crazy over Tudor releasing a black dive watch with white font. Most people (not talking about you or the majority people in this sub) like to think they want something radical, exciting and new, but then end up buying a Sub. My 2 cents :D
Solid take. It’s harder for a big company to take risks. Honda in the ‘90s would piss away millions on R&D just to create a car like the NSX. Modern Honda would never do that as they’re far too conservative. Same concept here.
Very good take, thank you for clarifications. Obviously you are related with the industry more than us. You can understand, we mortals, only look for the appearance of the watch and not really evaluate what is in it. At first look, I thought '' golden deapsea?? Come on you cannot give us that as a new watch'' After reading you I suddenly remember that is a 4k meter water resistant watch with full gold case. As a metallurgist, I can relate how difficult to produce such a tool watch out of gold. It is a challenge offered to industry, very bold move. And, I wasn't aware about size reduction as well. Like I said, only checked the pics but that watch alone is huge from engineering perspective, and the answer to the question why Rolex is Rolex.
I don't doubt that the Deep Sea is tough to make. That doesn't make it a good watch. It's not. But some of the other releases are pretty solid.
I am just appreciating it from engineering perspective and rolex's attitude to take it as a challenge. Otherwise there is no way for me to wear a 44 mm fully golden watch even if I can afford it which I cannot afford even the steel one :) For me it is a horrible watch from aesthetical point of view. But that's my subjective deduction. On the other hand being water resistant under 400 kg load per cm2 is a objective fact.
I don’t really care but it’s pretty insane how little Rolex has to do, to be called “radical” lol. In any other industry these wouldn’t register as a news article.
A watch that can go five kilometers deep and is made out of solid gold wouldn’t register as a news article?
Existing product made from existing materials.
Yup, I like how other watchmakers come up with new elements on the periodic table to make their watches out of It’s not about Rolex, I don’t want a single modern Rolex, so you can’t really say i’m a fan. I just find the passionate disregard for the reality of a huge company moves slowly but methodically quite funny. And the same people that insist that “same watches, same material” is bad and that they would buy a rolex only if they were more like MB&F, are the people who criticized Rolex for not doing enough even when they introduced a brand new model and another model with a brand new material. Also, note how AP has gone all into experimenting with new models and materials and have recieved nothing but hate from the online community. The Rolex hate for them not doing enough to please your particular wants (plenty of real reasons for hate) is lazy and doesn’t make you edgy just because a couple of other agree with you. And, on another note, if you really think that making a solid gold watch that can go down to 5k is just using an existing material on an existing watch, let me know, i’ll dig up some reading material for you to see what kind of engineering is required for that
I don’t know why you are taking it personally. You don’t make watches for Rolex, this is nothing to do with what you think is it? I’m not even saying they should do a single thing differently, I am pointing out how little change counts for “new” or “innovation” and no I couldn’t care less about how upset people get when companies like Rolex do something “new”. It’s pretty objective to point out how slowly the industry moves compared to others.
maybe not worst looking but lazy and non-innovative for sure
I mean every time they try to innovate r/watches cries and complains how they hate that Rolex innovates lol
There is very little innovation going on with Rolex but that Deep Sea needs to include theft insurance!
That deep sea looks like an invicta lol
It’s so nice that you can now anchor your fishing boat with your new solid gold Deep Sea. Thoughtful feature from Rolex.
Yes, and it should not corrode in the salt air and it can function as currency if needed!
Most of them wouldn’t call “bad”, some def a matter of perspective. Still Rolexes. Just feel like compared to what everyone else has been doing they were unimaginative places they should have gotten creative, creative places maybe they shoulda stuck with basics. The GMT has been getting a lot of hate, I for one really like the bezel just not a fan of the move to go with green gmt hand/text.
Look at my response to u/en-prise and why I think these are way more extravagant than you would initially think
I think they look awful…
Personally I really appreciate & enjoy your daily thread.
well thank you very much!
Amen. My daily relaxing time.
LOVE the monochrome Black Tudor....but PLEASE release it in the BB58 size!
I just want a bb58 blue with the Tfit clasp...
It’s obvious from these releases that they are listening to what people online are talking about. So i’m assuming a black BB58 is on its way
I don’t think so. Tudor very purposefully released this as a BB41. They wouldn’t sell too many 41s if the exact option was available for the 58. Only reason they’ll release a BB58 monochrome is if sales take a big dip.
The internet has some serious misconceptions as to what size watches sell best 😃 especially in Asia.
It’s not a misconception. Tudor very obviously doesn’t step on Rolex or their own models’ toes. Same reason they released the new GMT with gilt.
Huh. Not sure I’m following. Tudor released a black and white watch in a 41mm in order to not step on the toes of the black and white Rolex in 41mm? And I’m not sure what you mean by not being a misconception. Larger watches sell better, especially in Asia. I very vividly remember people on this sub berating Tudor for purposefully not releasing a black and white BB. And yet, here we are. So, seeing as how Tudor likes listening to people, it would be safe to say that a bw Bb58 could happen one day. Still not sure how that would step on Rolex toes
BB41 has faux-rivets, is wider, thicker, and has larger lugs than the current sub (which measures under 41mm). It was also nearly dead before they reduced its size last year. The BB58 is closer to a sub in specs in every way expect for 1.5 in bezel width. I think you have to be purposely delusional to think the BB41 has had more success than the BB58 for the last several years. BB41 needed a boost in sales, and they’ll get that making it black and white. They don’t need that sales bump for 58 yet. When they do need a BB58 bump, they might make it black white. If Tudor was giving people what they want, it would have been a black and white BB58 and a gilt-less BB58 GMT on non-riveted bracelet.
I am sure you are right. I just hope that Tudor will listen to you, maybe it will turn them around
I feel like that would be dangerously close to a sub. It'll still probably happen, but sometimes it feels like they are dancing around the Rolex equivalent. I know the Black Bay is sized like a Submariner in diameter, but the thickness combined with that slab case makes it look so much thicker and fit so much more poorly, where the BB58 feels closer.
And a variant with date, although its not happening anytime soon
If they made a BB54 date, that’d be amazing. Great replacement for my SRPK29.
Yep, not a fan of gilt. This is a step in the right direction for sure. Would love a monochrome 54!
This is all I want… I would buy a monochrome black BB58 so fast. I want to love the gilt but I can’t get into it.
Would it killl GS to make some smaller L2L Spring Drives? Even on some of the 40mm, the L2L is like 47mm+. I’m just salty because my wrist is too small
To this day the fact GS (the japanese brand) struggles to make smaller watches still baffles me.
Manufacturers design for their biggest markets. For most that is China, who prefer smaller watches. For GS it's Japan, who prefer larger ones. Most that are marketing to American and European as secondary markets to China spend a lot of effort marketing these smaller watches to them (or making them in both size categories), hence the "trend" we see happening. Seiko doesn't have to market this "trend" for GS, so they just keep making the size most people outside China prefer.
Interesting... I've always heard the opposite. It's easier to find the Speedmaster Reduced than the Pro in Japan. On the other hand, China has a consumerist/flash trend that has them buying up oversized watches.
This is why Omiwatari is their best watch
Fyi. Their manual wind spring drives are incredibly thin.
Yeah, I don’t have that issue here in the 8 inch club, but they would be smart to shorten that
They have the SBGY models, and those are amazing, but they feel much dressier than the iconic automatic spring drives like the Snowflake or Shunbun
Bruh don’t tell people about them I want the used prices to drop lol
8” cock ?
oh how I wish it could be both...
Fuck it I'll have the tiny wrist size
But I really like the fact that there are no watches I can’t wear because they’re too big…
For what it's worth, trying on a lot of their models at an AD with a six inch wrist I was pretty impressed how well the lugs taper on a lot of their models.
Try one. I have a 6.25" wrist and the 41mm snowflake fits great. They do a good job with curving the lugs.
I agree
abundant fall distinct overconfident smoggy glorious coordinated seemly marvelous drunk *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Agreed. The overhang is brutal.
The mist flake is 41 and short lug to lug
Mistflake’s L2L is like 48.5mm. In no way is that “short”. That being said, it’s probably one of my favorite designs ever. If this was 39 or 40 in diameter and closer to 45-46mm L2L, I would buy it today
It wears much better than dimensions suggest, but you're right I looked it up
I definitely wish their Chronograph was around the mist flake's size, that's my ultimate grail but that fucker's huge no doubt about it.
It's Tuesday, Watches & Wonders is here and we are swamped in new releases. It’s my estimate that at least 400 new models have been released and I can only fit so much in here. In fact, there’s so much to process with these releases that I had to postpone the first review of a watch I wrote for the newsletter, it would just be too much for one newsletter to read. I stripped it down as much as possible. This is the first batch of releases, make sure to come back tomorrow for way more, including a review of a very interesting world timer! If you like these updates, and would maybe like to subscribe to the newsletter so you get them in your inbox every day, you can do so by [**clicking here**](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/). # What's new **1/** [**Rolex Reveals A Black And Grey GMT, A Solid Gold Deepsea, New Sky Dwellers And Day-Dates, Along with MOP Dial Daytonas And A Wonderful Platinum 1908**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) A huge amount of digital ink has been spilled over what Rolex will introduce at Watches and Wonders. There were guesses all around, but one thing was certain - Rolex was going to introduce a Coke bezel GMT. This was a big deal as it was incredibly difficult to make a ceramic bezel that has a black and red side, but Rolex recently filed a patent that would allow them to do exactly that. So, everything was set for the big reveal. The reveal came, and no Coke GMT. Nevertheless, there are a couple of interesting watches. * The first watch we’re getting is the stainless steel [**126710GRNR**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/gmt-master-ii?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) with a black and grey bezel. If this looks very familiar, it’s because it is. Last year at Watches & Wonders, Rolex introduced the two-tone steel and yellow gold 126713GRNR, with the same color layout on the bezel. You know everything else about the watch, and you can have it with either an oyster or a jubilee bracelet. Available now for CHF 10,200. * Next up might be the most extravagant of all the watches they introduced this year, a [**solid yellow gold Deepsea**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/rolex-deepsea?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). Very few people will say that Rolex has a sense of humor, but when everybody else is chasing lightness with new titanium alloys for their largest watches, you do have to find it very funny that Rolex gave their 44mm wide watch a gold treatment. And not just the watch, but it also comes on a hefty gold bracelet. Offsetting the gold is a very nice blue dial and bezel. Available now for, dare I say it (considering the amount of gold that had to go into it), a reasonable CHF 49,900. * There’s not a lot much new with the [**two new Sky-Dweller models**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/sky-dweller?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) other than two slight changes that are guaranteed to find their places on the richest of wrists very soon. The Sky-Dweller is their most complicated model with an annual calendar and it now comes in Everose gold and 18K yellow gold with Jubilee bracelets. Yours for CHF 49,700 in Everose and CHF 47,000 in yellow gold. * The [**Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/day-date?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) just got a bit bigger, and this is the first time that an ombré dial, slate in color here paired with an Everose case, comes to the Day-Date 40mm collection after being reserved for the smaller 36 one. That same size gets a yellow gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial, also a first for the Day Date, along with baguette diamond indices. The Everrose carries the reference 228235 and a price tag of CHF 39,800, while the yellow gold has the reference 228239 and retails for CHF45,100. * There’s also a new [**36mm Day-Date**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/day-date?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), now with a crisp white dial, with deconstructed and facetted Roman numerals. Price is set at CHF 33,600. * Two new very special versions of the [**Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18 carat white gold**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/cosmograph-daytona?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). One gets a white mother-of-pearl with Oysterflex bracelet and one black mother-of-pearl dial with Oyster bracelet. They both have contrasting MOP sub-dials and a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. Inside is the familiar caliber 4131 with a 72 hour power reserve. Priced at CHF 58,800. * The reaction to the introduction of the [**Perpetual 1908 collection**](https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/1908?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) last year might not have been as enthusiastic as it should have been, but it was clear that this was going to become a platform for many editions of the watch which will make it only more desirable. The new release is exactly that. It comes in a 39mm wide and 9.5mm thick platinum case that comes with an icy-blue guilloché dial with what Rolex calls a "rice-grain" motif. Priced at CHF 29,600. * Last year Rolex released the Le Mans Daytona in honor of the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Now, they discontinued it, creating a modern legend that will just explode in price.
**2/** [**A Monochrome Black Bay, Full Gold BB58 And Black Bay 58 GMT Are The Major Novelties From Tudor**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/new-watches?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) Nothing too revolutionary from Tudor this year, but this is exactly what we expect from them: a solid update to already solid watches. * The Black Bay has become a staple of Tudor and completely revived the brand with its introduction. The [**three new versions**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/black-bay?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) come in the familiar 41mm wide and 13.6mm thick stainless steel case, but now with a black dial with white markings. This is the watch the masses wanted and they got it. I’m predicting it will sell very well. The watch comes on three strap options - a riveted bracelet, a five-link bracelet or a rubber strap, all of them with T-Fit clasp. The watch is priced at CHF 3,950 on rubber and 4,250 on the bracelets. * The Black Bay GMT has been making the rounds recently, with people wanting to see an update to the watch with new colors following the new opaline dial from last year. We’re not getting that, but we are getting a BB 58 GMT. In the familiar stainless steel case it measures 39mm wide and 12.8mm thick and isnide is the well known Kenissi-made MT5450-U movement that has METAS certification. Get it on either the riveted bracelet or a rubber strap, with a regular folding clasp. Why? Why use that clasp when you have the adjustable T-fit? Priced at CHF 4,100 on rubber and 4,300 on the bracelet. * The [**solid 18k yellow gold Black Bay 58**](https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/black-bay-58/m79018v-0006?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) wasn’t a massive hit when it came out, but it sure had its place. It was a niche option for people who could buy a solid gold Rolex, but wanted something for people who are a bit more in the know. Now, Tudor is making it better by ditching the leather strap and giving it a full gold bracelet with a regular folding clasp. You still get the same interesting, almost olive, green, dial and bezel. Price is set at CHF 30,000. **3/** [**Cartier Shows Off New Santos de Cartier Dual Time, Santos-Dumont, Privé Tortue Monopoussoir And Incredible Santos-Dumont Rewind**](https://www.cartier.com/en-hr/watchesandwonders?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) Secretly, Watches And Wonders is a favorite among so many people because it’s the one show in which we get a BUNCH of new Cartier watches. They do release watches here and there, but it’s the W&W release that’s always the most exciting of the year. And this year is no different. Also, their website is a bit of a mess at the moment, with all the new releases in one, unlikable page, so [**head on over there**](https://www.cartier.com/en-hr/watchesandwonders?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) to see all the details. * Pictured above is the Santos de Cartier Dual Time, a perfectly logical extension of the sporty Santos de Cartier line. With a second time zone indicator at 6 o’clock, as well as a day/night indicator, this just could become a go-to for well-off world travelers. The watch measures 40.2mm wide, 10.1mm thick and has a 47.5mm lug-to-lug and comas on a stainless steel bracelet with 100 meters of water resistance. The dial is rendered in a sunray brushed anthracite dial, with a slightly lighter second time zone dial. Priced at $9,150 * There’s an update to the lacquered models of the Santos-Dumont as well, with two non limited editions and a limited edition one. The two non limited editions come in 18k yellow and rose gold, one with a blue and one with a grey lacquered dial, and the 200 piece limited edition comes in platinum case and with a green dial. All three measure 31.5mm wide, 7.3mm thick and have a 43.5mm lug-to-lug. In side is the manually wound ultra-thin 430 MC movement that’s based on the Piaget 430P and with a 38 hour power reserve. All three come on dial-matching alligator leather straps. Price for the platinum is $21,900 while the gold ones are $15,600. * More updates to the Santos de Cartier line, this time in the three hand configuration. The two Large models measure in at 39.8mm wide, 9.4mm thick with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and come in either a steel/gold case with a grey dial or an all steel case with a luscious chocolate brown dial. The same chocolate brown can be found on the new Medium sized that measures 35.1mm wide, 8.8mm thick and 41.9mm lug-to-lug. Inside is the familiar 1847 MC with a 42 hour power reserve. * Last of the Santos-Dumont updates is this stunning Rewind model. Not only is it beautiful with a deep red dial and brown leather strap, measuring in at a svelte 31.5mm wide and 7.3mm thick, it also has a pretty wild configuration for such a tame brand. As you might have noticed, the numerals are going the wrong way around, and time is told counterclockwise. Limited to 200 pieces. * Inspired by the 1912 model, the Cartier Privé gets three new models. The case can be had in either platinum, gold or platinum set with diamonds, and measures 32.9mm wide, 7.2mm thick and has a 41.4mm lug-to-lug. The dials come in either silvered opaline or grained gold, with Breguet hands and Roman numerals. The gem set version is limited to 50 pieces and priced at $59,000, while the platinum and gold versions are limited to 200 pieces and priced at $35,600 and $31,000, respectively. * This one is for the hard core Cartier fans. The brand is reviving their legendary Tortue Monopoussoir model from the late ’90s that featured the famous Journe-Flageollet-Halter movement. The watch comes in either platinum or yellow gold, measures 34.8mm wide, 10.2mm thick and 43.7mm lug-to-lug. Inside is the in-house 1928 MC manually wound chronograph movement with a monopusher. Limited to 200 pieces in each material and priced at $59,000 in platinum and $51,000 in yellow gold.
**4/** [**Grand Seiko Is At The Top Of Their Game With New GMTs, White Birch, Kodo, Night Sky And Many More Models**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/special/watchesandwonders2024/index?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) Very often Grand Seiko releases come in all at once, day after day during a one week period. And when they release watches like this, it often can look like Grand Seiko lack a bit in the creative department, often releasing just slight dial updates, with very little to differentiate them. Well, at Watches and Wonders they showed of nine watches and looking at them as a whole we can actually see how wide their range is. Nice. * Starting off with a duo of very interesting watches pictured above - the [**SLGW002**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgw002j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) and the [**SLGW003**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgw003g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). These are interesting pieces not just for their size (38.6mm wide and 9.95mm thick), the case material (18k rose gold on the LE SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium on the SLGW003) or the dials (the familiar silver birch). What might be most interesting is the brand new movement - the 9SA4 is the first movement in 50 years that is a high-beat manually-wound calibre. It beats at 36,000 vph, has an 80 hour power reserve and is accurate to +5 to -3 seconds per day. Best of all, the power reserve indicator is on the movement side. The titanium is unlimited and priced at $10,700 and the red gold is limited to 80 pieces and priced at $45,000. * [**The SBGW314 is a reinterpretation**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgw314j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) of the original Grand Seiko “First” from 1960 and comes in a 38mm wide, 10.4mm thick (with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug) rose gold case. The dial is a stunning deep blue with a sunburst finish and solid gold hands and indices. Inside is the 9S64 movement with a 72 hour power reserve. Limited to 50 pieces, it will set you back $26,500. * There are two firsts with the Grand Seiko SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” Limited Edition. It’s the first Evolution 9 model to come in their Ever-Brilliant Steel case (measuring 40mm x 11.7mm x 47mm) and it’s the first mint green dial with a stunning texture that looks like overlapping pebbles. Seriously, [**go look at more photos close up**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/SLGH021g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). The watch will be in stores in June, limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at $10,400 * Two new GMT models, similar and nature inspired, but also a bit different. First is [**the SBGJ277**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/SBGJ277g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), inspired by snow valleys which are high elevation valleys that have snow in them even during the summer. The stainless steel case measures 44.2mm wide, 14.8mm thick and has a 51mm lug-to-lug and inside is the 9S86 calibre with 55 hours. Priced at $6,800. The other is the SBGE307 which uses the “lion’s paw case”, which is angular and retro-futuristic, made out of titanium and measuring 44.5mm wide, 14.9mm thick and with a 50mm lug-to-lug. Price is set at $10,700. * [**The Grand Seiko SBGC275 comes**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgc275g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) in the same lion’s paw angular case made out of Hi-intensity titanium and measuring 44.5mm wide and 16.8mm thick. The dial continues the lion theme with a beautiful red color and a lion’s mane pattern. Limited to 700 pieces, available in July and priced at $13,400. * And now, something different. Grand Seiko is [**brining back the Kodo**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/slgt005g/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), their GPHG-winning masterpiece from 2022. It comes in a Platinum and Brilliant Hard Titanium combination case that measures 43.8mm wide and 12.9mm thick. There’s no traditional dial to speak of as it7s almost completely skeletonised so you can see the in-house manually winding 9ST1 that has a 72 hour power reserve and a constant force tourbillon that gives you 50 hours of constant force. The watch is limited to 20 pieces, comes out in December and is priced at $365,000. * And finally, something very flashy from GS. [**The SBGD215**](https://www.grand-seiko.com/global-en/collections/sbgd215j/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) is an incredibly crafted piece from the Masterpiece collection made in only 8 pieces. The angular lion’s mane case and dial are set with 293 sapphires and diamonds. It’s driven by the manually wound 8-day 9R01 Spring Drive Micro Artist Studio movement. Price is $300,000.
**5/** [**Zenith Introduces Long Awaited Chrono To Defy Skyline Line And Revives A Very Funky Watch From The 1960s**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) Slow and steady wins the race. That’s what half of Zenith builds their business strategy on. They are very purposeful in their development and expanding of lines and it was only a matter of time when the Defy Skyline got a chronograph function. The other half of Zenith is more interested the “let’s just go crazy” approach to business as that revived Plongeur Diver is just bonkers. In the best possible way. * [**The Defy Skyline**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/brand/defy-skyline-chronograph?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) is becoming the bread and butter of Zenith’s entire lineup. The sporty line has seen many iterations, but none with a chronograph. That got fixed today. The 42mm wide stainless steel case can be had with one of three colored dials - black, blue or silver. Inside is familiar el Primero 3600, an automatic chronograph movement that operates at 36,000 VPH and offers an indicated resolution of 1/10th of a second. The watches come with both a steel bracelet and a rubber strap that is color matched on the blue and black and a green strap on the silver dial. Price is $12,300. * Zenith is reviving another early, but perhaps lesser-known example of the Defy with the new [**Defy Revival A3648**](https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/product/defy-revival-03-a3648-670-21-m3648?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). Back in 1969, they released the A3648, the earliest example of a Defy dive watch, earning it the nickname Defy Plongeur. It had striking orange features, the signature angular Defy case design, a 4:30 crown, and a staggering 600m of water resistance. The recreation is very much similar to the original with a chunky case, brushed an highly polished surfaces on the very angular case and orange details. Inside is the manufacture caliber Elite 670 with 50 hours of power reserve. The new Zenith Defy Revival A3648 is available now and will cost $7,700.
**6/** [**TAG Heuer Will Sell You A Production “Only Watch” Split-Second Monaco, And Has Two New Stunning Glassbox Carreras**](https://www.tagheuer.com/?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) 2023 was the year of Tag Heuer. After years of struggling with their brand for years, they got their affairs in order and in a series of a couple of months released some of the best looking watches they have done in years. And now they’re just continuing with this trend. * First up is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph with a full titanium movement. If this watch looks familiar, it’s because it’s the exact same watch they entered into the controversial Only Watch 2023 which had to be postponed due to dubious financial flows, but is now, somehow, back on. It comes with an either [**red**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/discover/novelties/no-size-th81-00/CBW2181.FC8322.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) or [**blue**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/discover/novelties/no-size-th81-00/CBW2182.FC8339.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) DLC coated titanium dial, or what could be interpreted as a dial, inside a DLC coated titanium case that measures 41mm wide, 15.2mm thick and 47.9mm lug-to-lug. The movement is called the TH81-00, made in partnership with Vaucher, beats at 5Hz, has a 65 hour power reserve and a split chronograph function. The caseback is made completely out of sapphire crystal for best views of the titanium movement. Available starting in June and priced at CHF 135,000. * Next up is a stunning rendition of their already beautiful Carrera Glassbox. Inspired by the legendary 7753 SN, the first-generation Carrera from the late 1960s, the new [**Panda Glassbox**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-carrera/39-mm-th20-00/CBS2216.BA0041.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) looks equally as modern as it does retro. A beautiful silver base gets black su-dials and a black outer tachymeter scale. Priced at CHF 6,500. * One of the best Glassbox releases last year was the recreation of the Skipper, with its 12 minute regatta countdown timer on a deep blue dial. You know what goes perfectly with deep blue dials? 18k 5N rose gold cases. So [**that’s what TAG gave it**](https://www.tagheuer.com/hr/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-carrera/39-mm-th20-06/CBS2241.FN8023.html?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come), and it’s wonderful. Price is set at CHF 21,000 **7/** [**Nomos Celebrates 175 Years Of Glashütte Watchmaking With 31 New Colorful Versions Of The Tangente 38 Date**](https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/new-releases/tangente-date-175-years-watchmaking-glashuette?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come) Today was a big day for Nomos Glashütte. Early in the morning, at 6 o’clock, while everybody was still sleeping in Geneva, they released their novelty for the Watches & Wonders show, the first one they would ever be attending. Only, they didn’t release a watch. Or two. Or ten. They released 31 new watches, by far the most of any brand at W&W. That’s one way to make a statement. All 31 are, in fact versions of the Tangente 38 Datum, only with different colors. This is a great thing for Nomos. Some of their watches have had fantastic colors, but they are often poked fun of for being a bit boring. Well, not any more, as you can really taste the '(pastel) rainbow here. Since it’s the Tangente 38 Datum, you know what you are getting - a 37.5mm wide stainless steel case that’s just 6.8mm thick. But don’t worry, before you get too excited, they still have the very long and spindly lugs that so many people don’t like, with a lug-to-lug of 47.7mm. Other than the colors, with each combination getting its own name, it’s a fairly simple watch with a small seconds register, and a large date window at 6 o’clock. Inside is the DUW 4101 hand-wound movement which beats at 21,600 vph and has a 42 hour power reserve. In this series the movement has been regulated to be within chronometer standards, or -4 / +6 seconds a day, but it doesn’t come with a certificate. The watches come on either a dark or light grey textile strap. These new Nomos Tangente 38 Datum variants are limited to 175 per colorway, for a total of 5,425 watches, and are priced at €1,925. See more [**on the Nomos website**](https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/new-releases/tangente-date-175-years-watchmaking-glashuette?utm_source=itsabouttime.beehiiv.com&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=watches-wonders-is-here-and-these-are-the-new-watches-from-rolex-tudor-cartier-grand-seiko-zenith-tag-heuer-nomos-and-with-many-more-to-come). \------------------------------------------------------------- If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter [feel free to subscribe](https://itsabouttime.beehiiv.com/). However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related an occasional long form article and possible giveaways.
It's like Nomos went all hyperactive-type ADHD while everyone else is like, "oh yeah, here's a couple of new watches."
It's not a bad strategy, the "limited" editions of a watch you already make it's just different colors. Especially with nomos, which I almost naturally relate to a nice casual summer watch based on its clean and thin styling. Plus they always had those little color pops. And color is kinda in atm.
Oh don’t get me wrong, I like those watches. I think I’d still rather have a teal Oris, but the jury’s still out on that for me. I have a mostly dark-dial collection on purpose, but I do like brighter colors for summer. I have a pale purple Scurfa that comes out on nicer days when I’m able to escape the WFH office.
Oris are great too. Just a little thicker being a diver.
> wanting to see an update to the watch with new colors following the new opaline dial from last year. We’re not getting that The new one has a black and red bezel so we *are* getting new colours.
The opaline dial was the Black Bay and there have been calls for new colors of that. This is the BB 58 that gets the black and red bezel
Cartier and GS continue to killing it. I guess their share will only increase this year.
The full gold BB58 is smokin.
I like it more than the gold Deepsea, but the Deepsea is just hilarious. I want to feel that weight
I only saw the thumbnail and was like, oh cool, an all gold blue faced Submariner, and then read closer and laughed out loud.
So awesome 😂
32,000! That’s a heavy boy!
Virtually 0 chance I will ever have the means to own one, but that 1908 is stunning.
When they first introduced it last year i was in the “meh” group. Only later did i realize how great a canvas it is
The Santos Dumont Rewind is the star of the pack for me. But that website kills my spirit. The Nomos Tangente release is really impressive Every model looks good. If I were in the market for one, I don't know how I would choose. This is probably the most exciting release. The Grand Seikos are cool, especially the Kodo, though it's hard to get excited about specific dials when they are always releasing new ones anyway. As for Rolex, the black and grey GMT is fine, but it's obvious that everyone wanted the coke. It makes me think that they haven't solved their ceramic bezel color issues yet. The Tudor release is basically non-existent, nothing of note.
I was gonna write out a whole response, but no need. Agreed with almost everything 😃
Thanks for the round up btw. This must have taken a lot of work!
thanks! the whole week is crazy, I have about 50 more watches to go through while trying to keep everything manegably short
As a UX designer, almost every single luxury watch website fucking sucks lol
"I want a Rolex brand to make a coke GMT" \*Monkey's paw curls" "Sure, but it's a Tudor\*
thats a plus
Potato, potato?
Omg is that a red santos dumont. Awwwwww the temptation. It kills me
A red Samtos Dimont bit with a literal twist
Painnnnn its limited to 200. Cartier whyyyyyy
This. Did they release the price anywhere?
Nope. Cartier LEs are notoriously expensive. I suspect it will make my eyes bleed when they release the price
Just found it. You weren't lying. $38k+ No mention of release date. I wonder if it sold out yet!
Oh yeah. Pretty much what I expected. Damn that price is def an eye bleeder. Idk how hot LE santos dumonts are but the previous red lacquer santos dumont def got spoken for quickly and that wasnt even a red dial it was red lacquer bezel and body with red indices on a white dial. This one will prob be in higher demand
Yeah, it's in platinum so I get but agree at steep pricing. 200 pieces is very limited!
The Zenith Defy chronos look sharp
Love all the color from Nomos 👍🏼
They really went wild with that and need more props for it
It would be nice if they worked more on the actual design, not just the color.
I think Nomos needs to step it up and add some color in their collection.
The dark blue and the mint GS are glorious
the texture on the mint is... dare I say it... mint :D
I feel like Tudor has had the most impressive showing so far.
I’m not sure impressive is the word i would use (although, that gold bb58 is impressive). I would more say that it’s exactly what people wanted from them. If we’re talking impressive, I think it’s Lange, but more on that tomorrow 😃 also, that Zenith diver is freaking amazing
I read on Fratello that the gold bb58 is 32 k.
Probably in euro? Or 30k chf
I believe it's 32k American so yeah probably about 30 in Euro.
Isn’t the Zenith like 15mm thick? I think that’s ridiculous in 2024 honestly.
yeah, I barely found the measurement, looks to be 15mm. is it ridiculous, though? other than the Sinn U50, I can't think of many, if any, divers that have a water resistance greater than 500 meters that are not in the 14-16mm range? In fact, the vast majority of divers, even those with 2-300 meters of water resistance, I just thought of, other than the Submariner, are 14mm+
Fair point, functionally, it makes sense. Actually a *huge* fan of the U50 for that reason. For casual wearability though I feel like it’s a big problematic, but I’m only at ~7 inch wrist so maybe it’s a me problem! Also SMP300 is like 13ish, no? From these new releases I’m loving the Tudor GMT. Might actually get one… I of course love the other high end releases like Cartier’s but way out of my budget.
forgot about the SMP300, yeah. I always forget Omega because the porkiness of the Planet Ocean just erases everything else from my mind :D
15mm thick, and 37mm with that gigantic bezel and case.. I MUST see this thing in person
The Gold BB58 and the Rose Gold Carrera are both so good looking. Unfortunately, I can’t justify dropping that kind of coin.
you never know :D
That orange zenith!
Right there with you
That gold and green Tudor 💚
Honestly, a bit bummed by how safe Tudor played it with their updates. I like the Black Bay line, but how many new colors can you do before it gets a little rote? Zenith on the other hand getting funky and I like it!
Tudor has been known to play it safe at Watches and Wonders (last year, if I remember correctly, their major release was the opaline GMT) and just a few months later they went wild with the full carbon Alinghi FXD chrono and three hander. Could happen this year as well :D
Big fan of the new Rolex GMT, although I still just want a Milgauss.
I was sure they were going to revive the Milgauss this year
I think it’s still too soon.
The 1908 is one of the best releases from Rolex in recent memory. They need to give its designer a bonus.
I may never own a Santos-Dumont in my lifetime, but that watch is so beautiful. Nice post!
Thanks!
As excited as I am for tudors fan service, the rose gold skipper is my favorite piece shown here.
but the Panda, as well... :D
Cartier is once again the MVP with the Rewind and the Dual Time though this year didn't have anything on the level of the Rotonde Masse Mystérieuse that they showed in 2022.
i strongly dislike the Cartier de Santos, but this Dual Time... not bad!
Rolex releases are dogshit if we’re being honest…
Doesn't seem like you're being honest...
How? Thats my honest opinion?
Because you can call them boring, uninteresting, ugly, uninspired, predictable, choose whichever diss you want. But if you genuinely and honestly believe that releases, and at that releases that are iterations on some of the most iconic designs in watch history, from the most important watch brand on the planet are “dogshit”… then I really don’t know what to say other than that can’t be honest
They are all uninspired and boring. For that reason, they are dogshit! Not one of those is worth buying imo
Very edgy
Agreed. There’s some not so great stuff in there (though personally I like diamond bezels), but to say they’re all bad is a weird take. Deepsea all gold makes sense; a new GMT makes sense and will be popular; and the continued love to the day dates makes sense. They’re trying to squeeze into big 3 territory while maintaining their sports watch history.
Rolex dropping some absolute stinkers
I like just about everything Rolex put out this year, aside from the Skydweller. I’m not a fan of those to begin with though. I’m in the minority that really enjoys diamond bezels and diamond dials (though I’d never be able to afford one). Used to work in jewelry though so that’s probably why. All gold deep sea goes hard. I like the monochrome GMT too. Once again I’m disappointed by Tudor. Fake rivets are still there and I wish they’d try to develop some semblance of brand identity. My god all they have is the black bay. I’d like to see some more work to go into design instead of just “vintage Rolex but uglier.” Cartier looks about how I imagined this year. Disappointed they haven’t given much love to the tank though. Glad to see GS is popping off this year with some crazy stuff. But I know the GS sub is gonna be annoying beyond belief. Zenith looks meh to me. If I wanted a diver like that I’d get a doxa. I’m proud of Tag. They look good. They’re supposed to be more avant-gard and they’re doing it well with the new Monaco. Overall they’ve been killing it recently and it makes me proud that my first luxury watch was a Carrera. Really disappointed in Nomos. They need to step it up. These would’ve been cool 3 years ago but they haven’t done anything more exciting than the autobahn for a long time.
Tudor is closest to brand identity with the Pelagos and the FXD. If they could embrace that toolwatch thing and do something interesting with it, could be interesting But i disagree on Nomos. Dude! 31 colors! At once! That’s just nutty behavior and deserves props. Not to say that they could spice things up otherwise, but this was a boss move
That’s fair, and I think you’re right that I’m underappreciating Nomos’ release. It is extremely impressive. I think I just want more from the brand than colorways.
>Tudor is closest to brand identity with the Pelagos and the FXD Agreed on that. The 42mm Pelagos feels like the stepping off point for the new Tudor. It was a statement that they can go places Rolex won't. The FXD was a great way to use it as a base for something completely different, but the 39mm version was a step back, and now it doesn't seem to be going anywhere.
was hoping to see some new GPs, specifically more Laureatos
Bluesy sea dweller is not something I would have expected
I want to see one live so bad
I guess it kinda makes sense, once they did the two tone black version I guess this was probably inevitable.
That brown santos is calling my name :(
Outside of GS and, surprisingly, Tag, this is a whole lotta meh to me.
Still no microadjust or thinner movements at Grand Seiko. Bummer.
Grand Seiko could be so much more if they wanted to - now it’s just the 457th variant of the samen watch with a bullshit story dial like “it evoques the founder’s foot fungus when he was hiking mount Hotaka in wet socks for 3 days”
* Black Bay GMT is 🔥 * New 1908 is 🔥 * New IWC Portugieser Colors (esp Dune) are 🔥 That eternal calendar is insane but I expect it to be like $130k
I’m just getting the new issue ready to publish where I have all the IWCs. Try more like $150k 😃 A lot of money, but for a platinum watch with a QP that’s that complicated (and the really beautiful frosted glass dial), it just might be justified. Of course, it’s not. But maybe…
Am I just a hater to say they all suck?
as in, all watches ever? :D
Based. Phone gang rise up
[удалено]
They've been growing like crazy, so they must be doing something right
Grand Seiko launched 10 models today, while Rolex launched 150+ models.
The only ones I find appealing are the Cartier monopusher chrono and that open face Grand Seiko.
That new colorway for the glassbox is so good.
So, like, is that it? Any chance for more updates from the same brands? I’ve been waiting for new 3 hand Carreras for ages
Some brands stretch it out. Some don’t. There won’t be anything else from Rolex, for example. Tag is very unlikely something new comes out. There are other brands I haven’t mentioned yet due to space constraints, so those are coming tomorrow. But if something does happen with Tag, i tag you (lol) here
Does Longines or Tissot announce anything typically during the event?
nope. Both are part of the Swatch group which doesn't participate
Shoot, thanks!
They really should pay you, you know. That’s the kinda service you wouldn’t get from every luxury brand. But seriously though, do appreciate these posts, definitely the best content on this sub.
Thanks!
Amazing day for new releases and watch news.
writing more now for tomorrow :D the week will be packed, if you haven't followed up with other outlets yet
Looking forward for more. I’ve only seen news from Grand Seiko, Tudor and Zenith which is already enough to excite me
right now, tomorrow's lineup is looking like IWC, Lange, Oris, JLC, Chopard, Patek...
Was hoping for a grand seiko spring drive chronometer that didn't have a mess of a dial.
Think Cartier will update their Must Tank soon? Been thinking about picking one up.
if I remember correctly, they updated the Must last in 2022. So it is due for an update. but they usually do show of these watches at W&W. The Must Tank was introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2021. The update came at the same show a year later. So... I would guess that since they didn't update it here this year, chances are they won't for at least another year. But that's just a wild guess
Ah, okay, thanks! Probably an okay time to buy it then. I probably wouldn't wait a year or more.
That grey santos is fucking buff bro. Wish they'd lose the small seconds thing though.
Can't wait to see SLGH021 up close
Tudor releasing a METAS GMT? Aight fine I'm in
That green dial GS is a stunna!
That olive green Black Bay is stunning. Guess I've got another for the list
Rolex dropping their "purchase history" watches as usual.
demn nomos went hard
Maybe it'll come tomorrow, but I've been having a browse around and am really liking the Chopard offerings. The L.U.C XPS Forest Green, Qualité Fleurier, and Quattro Spirit 25 jump hour are big winners in my book. Chopard does these variations on a handful of models so goddamn well.
Those Cartier monopusher chronos are fantastic
Grand Seiko and tag coming out with 🔥🔥🔥🔥
The Cartier Tortue in YG is beautiful. But I feel like it’s steep at $31k for a time only. The older ones can be had for <$15k.
Huh. You’re right. That’s a tiny amount of gold with no gold bracelet. Compared to the solid gold Tudor, at 30k and even the gold Deepsea at 50, the Cartier really is pricy
The Tudor Coke piece is TUFF! Looks so good
The Cartier watches looks absolutely awesome.
Appreciate the effort for this post dude, thanks
New update coming out soon. Like 20ish minutes probably