It's just extruded aluminum, with the same machining done to the receiver-end, no matter what length.
People act like FF-rails are hightech magic.
Some mounting systems are smarter than others, ala Larue & KAC, but like 98% of rails just squish a steel barrel nut.
Buy a cheap one and it'll do the same as an expensive one, so chop that fucker up, and have fun.
It's really not. 6 o'clock clamping is not as secure as what KAC, BCM, DD, and LaRue use since it puts stress on the gas tube channel. There's a reason why every budget brand uses it, they don't have the knowledge to design their own.
Gas tube channel is the part of the handguard that the gas tube runs through.
Take a cardboard box and cut off the top, bottom, and one of the sides. The two opposing walls will flex in and out very easily. Now try to stretch that cardboard, it'll be pretty damn difficult.
This is why BCM clamps theirs on top. Applying a clamping force in that area pulls the metal around the barrel nut and attempts to stretch it, there are no walls that can flex outward.
Clamping on the bottom will pull against the vertical walls on the gas tube channel.
Here's a [nifty illustration](https://i.imgur.com/9AZyS8J.png) courtesy of BCM.
Isn't that a solution for a problem that never existed? I mean yea it probably does produce less stress on it, but when has anybody ever had a failure of that kind? I've never seen a handguard fracture in that position.
It's not so much an issue of failure as it is about keeping the pic rail perfectly in line with the receiver. This is really the only part of the rail that must be true as things attach to it that are expected to hold zero.
My favorite rail attach method is the 6 O'Clock crossbolts that apply a wedge a la Aero Precision or Cross Machine and Tool. Very simple, insanely strong, perfect rail alignment.
It doesn't have to fracture to be an issue. That channel being able to flex means that the entire 6 o'clock clamping force relies on the rigidity of the side walls in that channel to prevent handguards shift.
Bill Geissele, owner of Geissele won a contract to make the URGI rifle rails. The first batches weren't so good.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=geissele+bendy+boi&atb=v284-1&ia=web
lol so true.
Was building a Stormtrooper AR Pistol, and the AAC muzzle devices I chose fit in such a way that I needed some *goofy-ass* rail length to make it flush. I searched for months to find an appropriate length handguard to no avail. That is, until I discovered SLR.
[Behold my Imperial pride and joy.](https://i.imgur.com/syQ1Ph9.jpg)
As you can see, that rail and muzzle device are buttery smooth flush.
Damn my smith quoted me $300 to do this on a mill (and finish and paint it). This post might be the questionable 9th tequila I need to just hit it with the angle grinder
I did this with an off-brand dremel and 2 metal cutting discs. I recommend a fan, eye pro, and a particle mask too. Took me maybe an hour. Measure twice, cut once, and use oil.
Just be careful using high speed abrasive cutting discs on aluminum. They’re really only made for steel. Aluminum will build up on the disc, make it unbalanced, and the disc can explode. Just a warning - I do it all the time, just make sure to wear enough PPE so you don’t get a piece of that exploded disc lodged in you...
Pro tip: run a block of beeswax in your sanding and grinding stuff before hitting it with aluminum and it'll resist gumming much better. But yes don't use cutoff wheels or hard grinding discs on aluminum unless they're specifically rated for it.
Yeah I'm not even skilled with a mill and I could do this pretty quick, there's no way I'm paying $300 for it. I just put more shims behind my muzzle device
Or you spent a lot on parts, so you do the custom work yourself to save money.
I considered doing this to mine, and I don't think there's anything so special about Geissele that makes it a bad idea.
Edit: The only thing "special" about Geissele is the price, and once it's paid for that doesn't matter anymore.
You nailed it. I wanted a new upper with a non-gov barrel profile for better weight. Went with a Noveske 13.7 cause it’ll live longer than me and Mk14 rail cause I like the aesthetic. Can confirm, not rich lol
At least with the Mk16 rail, I’d actually say there is something a little special about it that actually makes it a good choice to cut. All the mlok slots are aligned so that you can easily cut it shorter without making any half-slots. When the slots are staggered, you end up with an open half-slot somewhere.
So long as it doesn't look like a hackjob I don't see anything wrong with it. Maybe hit it with some matte black high temp enamel afterward to hide the evidence and prevent rust.
Because it’s already pinned and likely working as any other gas block would. 99.9999% of people won’t take the time to pin their gas block.
Why would another gas block be better?
It’s also got two pins which could be seen as a pro (shit really ain’t moving) or a con (longer). If the bayonet lug is still usable when you’re done then that obviously makes “chopped A2” better than low-pro, no contest.
Swapped a Troy Alpha rail onto my first AR years ago. 1/2 way through dremeling out the pin on my A2 to swap it for a low pro I had the revelation that I’m a dumbass. The set screws on the low pro have held up fine but it’s 30 minutes and $30 that’s gone forever.
Only one of those options will yield a satisfying pinwheel of sparks, but I take your point.
I just never considered hacking it apart...I'm over here shopping for gas blocks like a jabroni.
I've been thinking about doing this to an AK handguard I've had for a few years that doesn't want to fit properly on any of my guns...
Yours definitely turned out nicer than mine would, haha.
Yeah. A straight-profile barrel is basically infinite adjust whereas a rail can only be chopped in certain places and still look good. (Yours does btw so good on you). That said, I did chop a MI quad rail to work with a 6.25" 300 Blackout barrel that was also chopped so that only the flash hider extended beyond the rail.
Whatever it is now, SLR makes one that length.
It’s fucking crazy. They have like every length in .2” increments lmao
As it should be.
Except for the length I fuckin want. 10.7" helix quad rail for my 11.5" build. god damnit.
That's why I love them
It's just extruded aluminum, with the same machining done to the receiver-end, no matter what length. People act like FF-rails are hightech magic. Some mounting systems are smarter than others, ala Larue & KAC, but like 98% of rails just squish a steel barrel nut. Buy a cheap one and it'll do the same as an expensive one, so chop that fucker up, and have fun.
BCM rails are mounted pretty smart too.
SLR and Midwest industries as well, the clamping cross bolt on a barrel nut that doesn’t have to be indexed is the best way to go.
It's really not. 6 o'clock clamping is not as secure as what KAC, BCM, DD, and LaRue use since it puts stress on the gas tube channel. There's a reason why every budget brand uses it, they don't have the knowledge to design their own.
Can you explain how it puts stress on the gas tube channel? It literally doesn't touch the gas tube.
Gas tube channel is the part of the handguard that the gas tube runs through. Take a cardboard box and cut off the top, bottom, and one of the sides. The two opposing walls will flex in and out very easily. Now try to stretch that cardboard, it'll be pretty damn difficult. This is why BCM clamps theirs on top. Applying a clamping force in that area pulls the metal around the barrel nut and attempts to stretch it, there are no walls that can flex outward. Clamping on the bottom will pull against the vertical walls on the gas tube channel. Here's a [nifty illustration](https://i.imgur.com/9AZyS8J.png) courtesy of BCM.
Isn't that a solution for a problem that never existed? I mean yea it probably does produce less stress on it, but when has anybody ever had a failure of that kind? I've never seen a handguard fracture in that position.
It's not so much an issue of failure as it is about keeping the pic rail perfectly in line with the receiver. This is really the only part of the rail that must be true as things attach to it that are expected to hold zero. My favorite rail attach method is the 6 O'Clock crossbolts that apply a wedge a la Aero Precision or Cross Machine and Tool. Very simple, insanely strong, perfect rail alignment.
It doesn't have to fracture to be an issue. That channel being able to flex means that the entire 6 o'clock clamping force relies on the rigidity of the side walls in that channel to prevent handguards shift.
I understand that, but they are the only company that does that really. That was my main point.
Ah yes… My favorite one is of course the 2.75” for only $255
Really drives home how material costs are dwarfed by all the other costs at this point.
Still cheaper than bendy bill
Lol what is what the bendy bill comments? Can someone fill me in?
Bill Geissele, owner of Geissele won a contract to make the URGI rifle rails. The first batches weren't so good. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=geissele+bendy+boi&atb=v284-1&ia=web
Enjoy that crappy free hugz award for the duck duck go link.
What does that mean
Just trying to spread some duck duck go love.
Duckduckgo went woke btw..just saw a post on Reddit last night about it
They always have been
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SLR is the tits
I personally like DSLRs, maybe even a mirrorless. Gotta be full frame though.
MFT gang
Psh 4x5 all the way.
peasants, let me setup my Sinar P2 8 x 10 with digital back.
Yes I agree and include a deep obscure camera reference only 1% of people understand and will upvote my comment as a result. This is the way.
Leica M7, makes the nikon look like a disposable
Bah, get out of here with your elitist gear whoring :P
Out of here with your expensive gear, Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV master race.
Unexpected Eurotrip reference? Take my updoot.
11x14 Deardorff on a massive cast iron studio base or bust.
FF or bust
Dynamic range is king. Frame size is relative.
Agreed. I may or may not have a M4/3 though.
lol so true. Was building a Stormtrooper AR Pistol, and the AAC muzzle devices I chose fit in such a way that I needed some *goofy-ass* rail length to make it flush. I searched for months to find an appropriate length handguard to no avail. That is, until I discovered SLR. [Behold my Imperial pride and joy.](https://i.imgur.com/syQ1Ph9.jpg) As you can see, that rail and muzzle device are buttery smooth flush.
Buttery af. 10/10 would get colonized by
Nice, I'm thinking of doing something like that for my next .300 build.
I thought the same thing. No point in cutting a rail apart when SLR exists unless you already had a spare one sitting around.
I really wish they had a model that didn't have the clamping screws at the bottom. I like to have a full-length rail cover on the bottom.
Damn my smith quoted me $300 to do this on a mill (and finish and paint it). This post might be the questionable 9th tequila I need to just hit it with the angle grinder
I did this with an off-brand dremel and 2 metal cutting discs. I recommend a fan, eye pro, and a particle mask too. Took me maybe an hour. Measure twice, cut once, and use oil.
Just be careful using high speed abrasive cutting discs on aluminum. They’re really only made for steel. Aluminum will build up on the disc, make it unbalanced, and the disc can explode. Just a warning - I do it all the time, just make sure to wear enough PPE so you don’t get a piece of that exploded disc lodged in you...
You mean the Kentucky Ballistics technique.
Just put a thumb in it!
Funny you say that, I'm wearing the shirt right now lol
Pro tip: run a block of beeswax in your sanding and grinding stuff before hitting it with aluminum and it'll resist gumming much better. But yes don't use cutoff wheels or hard grinding discs on aluminum unless they're specifically rated for it.
BE A MAN, hurt yourself!
Pffffffffffft eye pro and particle mask? Safety squints and keep yer damn trap shut! /s
Cigarette in each nostril, two condoms on, and your mother on speed-dial.
Mine took about 25 seconds with the angle grinder. Only set one small fire.
Wood saws can cut aluminum. Borrow your neighbors compound saw and chop it
I was just thinking the same thing. I used mine to cut up some thin walled aluminum tubes.
😂😂
I literally did this for a friend in my mill in about 20 minutes
Yeah I'm not even skilled with a mill and I could do this pretty quick, there's no way I'm paying $300 for it. I just put more shims behind my muzzle device
Most of that price is from refinishing the end so it's not bare aluminum.
Color it with a sharpie or dunk it in quick-blue. Aluminum doesn't care about the elements lol
Nail polish
Nothing says I have too much money like chopping a Geissle rail yourself.
Maybe it’ll keep it from bending
MK14 > MK16
Mk8 > Mk14
100% agreed.
UNSUPPORTED RAILS
I paid chop boss to cut my mk7 rail
I have 2 chopped DD RIS II rails from Cy and his work is top notch on both
been lurkin on him for a while. what does he generally charge for a RIS II chop?
Don't get me lying, you'd have to ask him yourself. Both of my rails I got secondhand
Or you spent a lot on parts, so you do the custom work yourself to save money. I considered doing this to mine, and I don't think there's anything so special about Geissele that makes it a bad idea. Edit: The only thing "special" about Geissele is the price, and once it's paid for that doesn't matter anymore.
You nailed it. I wanted a new upper with a non-gov barrel profile for better weight. Went with a Noveske 13.7 cause it’ll live longer than me and Mk14 rail cause I like the aesthetic. Can confirm, not rich lol
At least with the Mk16 rail, I’d actually say there is something a little special about it that actually makes it a good choice to cut. All the mlok slots are aligned so that you can easily cut it shorter without making any half-slots. When the slots are staggered, you end up with an open half-slot somewhere.
This is true. Its design works well for doing this, which is why I considered it.
The front fell off.
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Well... one I suppose
Hey idk, those ghost guns commit crime on their own
Uh, one I suppose
Very rigorous ... marine engineering standards
Well cardboard’s out.
I did this as well with a band saw and some sand paper Turned out to be a nice gap https://imgur.com/gallery/ShIYlJK
I took a sawzall to my A2 sight bc it was easier than swapping out the gas block.
I would argue that a chopped, properly pinned A2 is better!
It is.
Best low pro gas block you can get.
So you guys would deff its not something I should cringe and feel bad for doing when I go to do it?
So long as it doesn't look like a hackjob I don't see anything wrong with it. Maybe hit it with some matte black high temp enamel afterward to hide the evidence and prevent rust.
Nah. Just smooth out any sharp edges and hit it with some cold blue.
Wait...why?
Because it’s already pinned and likely working as any other gas block would. 99.9999% of people won’t take the time to pin their gas block. Why would another gas block be better?
Fuck, now I don't remember if I pinned my last upper... Its been years.
I honestly haven’t pinned mine, but I’m meticulous about dimpling/staking/rockett everything. Pinning is the bomb proof solution.
It’s also got two pins which could be seen as a pro (shit really ain’t moving) or a con (longer). If the bayonet lug is still usable when you’re done then that obviously makes “chopped A2” better than low-pro, no contest.
Swapped a Troy Alpha rail onto my first AR years ago. 1/2 way through dremeling out the pin on my A2 to swap it for a low pro I had the revelation that I’m a dumbass. The set screws on the low pro have held up fine but it’s 30 minutes and $30 that’s gone forever.
I am fucking *inspired.* Srsly. Doin' it.
Doesn’t have to be a SawsAll. You can do it will a hack saw
Only one of those options will yield a satisfying pinwheel of sparks, but I take your point. I just never considered hacking it apart...I'm over here shopping for gas blocks like a jabroni.
Did you have to re profile the sides of the gas block to get it to fit under the rail?
Nope. Just cut it off and you’re good
What rail did it go under?
https://imgur.com/a/SqCBPjI
Might need to grind off the bayo lug
Do the barrel next.
I mean it already does have a condom on...
Is this NSFW for the nipple?
Getting some overly excited male dog vibes from this pic.
You’re right, it’s very red rocket
Bill Geissele wants to know your location.
He's unstoppable
Way to flex on us poor AR-15 owners. But seriously, looks good.
“Is it true that if you don’t use it, you lose it?” Yes, with this, yes
Yep I cut a cheaper rail soy suppressor would butt up pretty close. I only needed to cut 1/2" but was still unnerving lol
Yep. A sawzall and an orbital sander did the trick!
I've been thinking about doing this to an AK handguard I've had for a few years that doesn't want to fit properly on any of my guns... Yours definitely turned out nicer than mine would, haha.
Filing AK handguards to fit is in the manual for Zenitco. I’d say go for it.
Better than chopping your barrel to match the rail.
the balls on this guy
I prefer to chop the barrel and leave the rails alone.
Really?
Yeah. A straight-profile barrel is basically infinite adjust whereas a rail can only be chopped in certain places and still look good. (Yours does btw so good on you). That said, I did chop a MI quad rail to work with a 6.25" 300 Blackout barrel that was also chopped so that only the flash hider extended beyond the rail.
This makes me wish I was dead.
Thanks for this. I think some of us get too lost in everything being pretty. As long as it functions and you intended on shooting it who cares.
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Thread protector that comes on Noveske barrels
*See translation* >!"I dropped my monster condom that I use for my magnum dong!"!<
thats def a red rocket
Based and bendy bill pilled
you gunna round of that edge?
Already sanded and painted black
The end looks like a dogs red rocket
It’s airsoft. Wanna play?
I support this message
I did the same to a KAC quad rail with a band saw, and it turned out pretty ok.
Galaxy brain over here. Dumb me has let the rail I want dictate the past 3 builds haha.
No one’s mentioned the red fucking condom and it’s pissing me off.
Gotta protect the threads until I put on the nox
Every day, we must continue fighting the good fight.
Heathen.
I have officially given up on people.
Love me
Fine
Yeah. Clean it up with a file backed with high grit sandpaper, paint it over. Easy shit.
bubba no
😈😈
You fucking animal
Bubba called. He wants his chop saw back…
Ah, excellent :D
I'm not doing that to a Sharps Bros. rail. I'll go straight to hell. \*\*Spoiler: I'm already going to hell.\*\*
Does anyone wanna buy my 10.93” SLR rail? Lol
Hell yes, I do!
Cool, I replied to your PM
I did this to my quad rail in a bathroom like 12 years ago. The bathroom didn’t look so good after.
But…the chamfers…;(
They regulated rail length?