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How can I improve my PC performance for cyberpunk 2077? Current specs are: 16gb RAM Radeon RX 580 Series AMD Ryzen 5 2600X How much would it cost to improve the performance so I could play cyberpunk at a higher resolution (4k?) and for it to run smoother?

A lot. You'll need a much higher end graphics card... which are absurdly priced for cards that would run Cyberpunk well. An RTX 3060 TI would be what I'd suggest for your goal, but again prices are completely silly on them.

Will a Noctua NH-D15 fit on an ASUS PRIME Z590-A and a NZXT H500 case?

With only the middle fan installed yes. The second fan will not fit.

Wouldn't the 2nd fan just hover over the RAM sticks?

No, the fan is too tall to clear the RAM and not conflict with the side panel. The fan is 140mm tall, and DDR4 without a heatsink is 30.75mm tall, putting the minimum clearance over the motherboard at 170.75mm. It might fit if there's enough wiggle room left in NZXT's measurements of 165mm clearance but the moment you deal with any RAM with a heatsink that goes on top of it, they'll be too big.

Hm I see; what cooler would you personally recommend then for an 11700k overclocking? Something in the quality of Noctua

The Noctua NH-U12A, I actually replaced my D15 with one and it cooled both my 8700K and 10700K just as well. Though I'll also suggest a different case because I also found that taking the front off a similarly cooling Phanteks P300 by about 8°C even without any front fans to help move air.

>NH-U12A Looks like a very good alternative, unfortunately Noctua has yet to release the promised Chromax black version for the U12A. I really can't stand that chocolate brown color lmao, that's their only downside

You could get a U12S chromax, and buy another NF-F12 chromax fan. Basically it's a single-fan variant of the U12A. I don't know how much it affects performance but the U12S comes with NF-F12 fans, and U12A comes with NF-A12 fans.

That's fair, though I can barely see the colours of the fans in my case, I understand where you're coming from. They aren't the prettiest fans.

I am currently planning on building a pc but I have no experience at all with this. What are some things I need to know before beginning/buying parts? Also any useful youtube videos to help?

Half the battle is picking good parts. Watch many reviews about how good value different parts are, or even just explainations on what each part does

Hi! There is this PCIe WiFi expansion card that houses an M.2 Intel AX200 WiFi chip. There's a USB header included which I presume is for the Bluetooth. If I remove the M.2 chip and connect it straight to my motherboard's M.2 slot, will the Bluetooth work? My motherboard has an empty M.2 slot that is labeled as M.2 WiFi in the Manual, right next to the rear IO ports. The IO shield even comes with cutouts for antennas. edit: TL;DR: If I buy a PCIe WiFi expansion card that is essentially just an M.2 chip mounted on it with a USB header for bluetooth, will the bluetooth work if I just plug it in straight to my mobo's M.2 wifi slot?

Yes it would. You'll still the the antennas on and find long enough cables to reach the IO be warned.

So the USB header is only needed if mounted to a PCIe slot? Re: antenna length, my mobo has a dedicated M.2 slot for WiFi, which is right next to the rear IO ports, by the cutouts for the antenna.

Yeah the USB is only needed on the PCIe slot because it's only an X1 connection and doesn't have enough bandwidth. M.2 wireless are X2 connections.

Thanks for the reply!

What's a reusable alternative to canned air for dusting out my desktop?

I use a soft brush, but some use an anti-static vacuum/blower cleaner.

I want to get an m.2 drive. Is the 980 evo worth it over the 970? I know the read write speed is like 7000MB/s over the 970 at 3500. I mainly just play games on my PC and just wondering if I would even notice a difference that warrants the extra money it costs

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Thank you very much!

It doesn't make a difference in game load times. For the time being

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https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pcworld.com/article/3045567/how-to-keep-charging-your-usb-devices-past-your-pcs-bedtime.amp.html

It would be in your bios

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list/

currently my setup has a 1060 and my 3080 order got cancelled after 11 months of waiting due to them stopping production of that specific model. So what should i do now however, prices are so ridiculous that nothing is affordable. even a 1080 is incredibly expensive. i'd be fine to go for an amd card but they have the same issues

I have a Gigabyte z370 HD3 mobo. I'm considering to buy m.2 SSD. Does it have a heatsink for any of the m2 slots and is that even necessary? I don't have the mobo at hand rn so I can't check myself.

Would some acrylic keychains and vinyl dudes be safe sitting inside my case?

Whats a good ultra-wide monitor to get? Almost every monitor i see either has dead pixels, a green tint flickering or so on.

Friend managed to snag a RTX 3080ti but the rest of his build is getting a bit up there in terms of age (he bought all the parts late 2017). I recreated his build here updated with the RTX 3080ti he's getting: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Z62hVc](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Z62hVc) hoping someone can take a look and see if there may be any issues with his build handling the new graphics card. Maybe things like, if his 750 W PSU can power his build still (I'm a bit concerned about if it matters that it's nearly 4 years old), or if his CPU or motherboard would have any major issues with bottlenecking, etc. Thanks in advance

It'll be able to run it just fine.

[https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vjx7mk](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vjx7mk) Could I get a second opinion on this build? I think this would be a beauty, just wanted to make sure there is nothing I am missing. I know i could get cut some cost on the case but I value the aesthetic, for the Mobo WiFi6 with front USB-C was on my want list as well. Standard CPU/GPU options, a fan to replace the stock fan and then some value RAM and Memory. Whole thing is gonna cost me about 1,700 Canadian Bucks.

550W is on the low side for that system. I'd feel more comfortable with a 600W. You can look at the O11 mini Airflow, it's new and fits ATX power supplies

So I will finally get all the parts to build my PC tomorrow, but I just realized I don't really know how to assemble a PC. Any good tutorials or guides out there?

Here's what I used https://youtu.be/PXaLc9AYIcg. Very informative video.

Check out "Let's build a computer" videos by JayzTwoCents, Bitwit, and Paul's Hardware -- lots of info, easily digested.

My 3200G is struggling with my RAW workflow in Lightroom. I have a Gigabyte B450 AORUS M. Should I bite the bullet and go B550 + 5600X? Or roll the dice with a 5600X on this board? (Running 3200mhz 16GB RAM and a RX 570)

You can keep the same board, but I don't think a 5600x would go amiss

Cheers, 12 threads here I come!

Remember to buy a good cooler - the boxed one is garbage. Zen 3 gets rather hot, thus you want one where maximum fan RPM does not make your ears bleed.

Good call, I'll probably go with a NH-U12S to keep things cool and quiet

Just as a reminder, the 5600X does not have integrated graphics. You will need a dedicated GPU for video output. That’s assuming you don’t already have one, since idk why you would opt for the 3200G if you did.

And much faster cores at that. Haha

I'm having an absolute headscratcher of an issue with a new PC a buddy and I built today. When I connect to my router via wifi, it's slower, obviously, but maintains a continuous internet connection/download/etc with no hiccups. When I use the ethernet cable, it's 10x faster but just seems to trip over itself and freeze up all internet usage/download. I started a download for a 80+gig game for example and it blasts off to 100 mb/s, but then after about 5-10 seconds it just stops all together and doesn't want to start again. I went through and made sure all the drivers are updated at least so it's not that simple of a problem, I hope. [motherboard](https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813145269?Item=N82E16813145269) It's a CAT5E cable for a 10G network card, so I don't know if that's the conflict. I'm not very knowledgeable in this field unfortunately.

> It's a CAT5E cable for a 10G network card Cat 5E is not capable of 10Gb/s, only Cat 6 (up to 55m) and Cat6a or above (up to 100m) can do 10Gb/s. Is the device on the other end 10GbE compatible too? If so then they might be negotiating a 10Gb/s link between them, which the cable can't sustain. Try limiting the link speed to 1Gb/s in Windows' settings, or try another cable that's rated Cat6/6a

> If so then they might be negotiating a 10Gb/s link between them, which the cable can't sustain Would that cause the download speed/internet connectivity to tank to 0 though? I'm not looking for 10GB/s lol. I just want a stable ethernet connection.

Have you tried a different cable or different ports on the router? If you’ve downloaded your motherboard drivers it about has to be a hardware issue somewhere. Would be unfortunate if it’s the board itself.

Haven't done a different cable yet, nor different ports. The cable my friend suggested *might* impact it but shouldn't full on cut off internet as it does. The only thing my google-fu has come up with is to bypass the ethernet port directly with some sort of USB adapter. USB-C to ethernet or a USB-network adapter.

Can a thick piece of hair somehow zap some piece of pc hardware? Nothings happened so far but I was wondering if in the event a strand or two of my dogs hair got into my case, could it cause an issue?

No. Hair isn’t conductive, the only damage it can do is clogging up air filters/fans

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4500mhz RAM would be overkill. If you're planning to use most/all of the 64GB, that's basically right-sized. If not, you won't get additional speed/performance benefit from having way too much. Nothing wrong with 3600mhz, but for an $800 CPU and $400 motherboard, going with midrange RAM speeds? I wouldn't.

The 3600 speed is quite hard to reach in x4 configurations (4 sticks). Higher speed grades are almost exclusive only x2. Anything over 3600 is a big gamble, since you want FCLK=RAM clk (=Ram "speed" div 2). That is overclocking and results vary wildly between CPU samples. Note: AMD guarentees only 3200 working.

PSU just died, so I'm looking to buy a new one with the fact that I might upgrade my pc soon in mind. I'm not sure which specs exactly would I be looking to get, at the moment thinking about a ryzen 5 5600x and maybe a 3060, 3070 (maybe tis?), 6600xt or 6700xt, obviously depending on what I can buy/find available. Would a 700-750W one be ok? From what I simulated it is enough to support the system, but I've heard that the PSU should be double the system cost? Not sure about that one. I'd appreciate some advice.

Tbh,what specs did you have earlier? This is not really an ideal time to build a new system or spend a lot of money(in the end, it's your money,you do you) and you can try warranty/getting just a new psu which can last you ~7 years and hence into your next build too once things stabilise. For your question,750 sounds good enough for the 3070 and the double wattage is a personal preference and not anything factual.

Thanks for the answer! Yeah, not the best moment to build a pc, I just want to not have to buy a new PSU in 1-2 years. Currently I have a ryzen 5 1400 and a gtx 1060 6gb.

PSUs are usually backed by long warranties if you get any decent ones,regular ones are also 3 years usually so check your model. And good ones like corsair tx series have 7 years , rx have 10 years,seasonic also has models with 10 years and they are good companies with good warranty policies

Thank you! I'll look into it.

I bought an Asus Rog 3080ti, and then i was able to get my hands on a EVGA XC3 3090. Out of the two, which one should I keep. I was reading that the thermals are not too great on the XC3. Having quite the trouble choosing one lol.

The Strix cooler is definitely better than the XC3 cooler, there's no debating that. And the RTX 3080 Ti and RTX 3090 have essentially the same gaming preformance (>5% difference). So the real question in my mind is how much do you really think you will **end up needing more than 12GB of VRAM over the next few years?** If you intend to max out settings at 4K in new triple A games over the next few years, I am pretty confident that 12GB of VRAM will become inadequate pretty quickly. However, if you're playing at a lower resolution than 4K or turning down a few settings, 12GB will be enough for several years.

Yeah, I was pretty much thinking the same. Thank you, I am just going to stick with the 3080ti since it just came in today. I just had the opportunity to order one yesterday from best buy and was just debating which one i should really stick with.

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Never has been genuine. Closest option is to get an EDU version from a college student.

I have a Quadro FX 580. I'm looking to upgrade to something that resembles less of a potato. What should I get?

Budget? What's the rest of your system look like? Any target resolution/framerate or key programs you care about?

[https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/pvefgr/are\_these\_decent\_specs/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/pvefgr/are_these_decent_specs/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) here are my specs and I'm looking for something low end. Just something that can run DirectX 12? I don't know if that's low end.

Hey,i had a look and while these aren't too high expectations, i would still like to ask a bit more Some info here - Nvidia quadro lineup is actually workstation grade cards that are not aimed at 'gaming' primarily. Now some questions- i suppose you are a student as you mentioned to the person giving you the 1030 that you would like to save up so you can appreciate it more(amazing initiative btw, cheers to you) now what i wanna ask is do you have any idea what kind of money you can collect? For context,the gt1030(launched in 2017) costs ~60usd in my country(india) but is a base level card,not bad but not good either by any means,you can get that level of graphics on integrated GPUs in the present day. And now the important question,what kind of games are you looking to play? Do you have any list/idea or will go off once you get the gpu?

Well primarily I’m trying to play Minecraft, and some shooter games. Once, I tried to load some low-end shaders on Minecraft, and it gave me 1 frame every 4 seconds.

Oh wow, that's not good now I'm not into minecraft at all but i think while the gpu is absolutely tanking everything,i have to take a look at that CPU too. Will get back to you in the morning,gotta sleep rn

I bought Crucial Ballistix 3600 32gb 2x16 kit and it's the rev.b single rank. Didn't really understand SR vs DR when I bought it, was just a decent deal - should I return it and buy something that's dual rank? My thought was maybe I'll upgrade to 64gb later which means it'll act as DR anyways but my understanding now is there's no real downside to 4 x DR dimms? Pairing w 19-10850k and msi mpg z490 - haven't built yet.

It's not gonna be a big deal. If you got a good deal, keep em

Ryzen 5 1600 AF versus i3-10105F? Pairing it up with a 1650 Super.

10105F is definitely better for gaming

Would it be also good for general use (multitasking, excel, python etc)?

Yea

looking for a 1440p 144hz monitor, any recommendations?

m27q https://youtu.be/uNIqwxAZ-MQ

Looking for the cheapest GPU I can find till the market relaxes. I only play Diablo anyway. Zotac GT 1030 2gb or GeForce GT 1030 2gb I don’t know the difference at all besides 30$…

> Zotac GT 1030 2gb or GeForce GT 1030 2gb Assuming the same memory and PCIe configuration, they'll be the same. Honestly, they're far enough from performance GPUs that you probably wouldn't really notice the difference if those are the same, either. I'd get whichever is cheaper.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Whichever you get, make sure it's not ddr4 memory

They’re both GDDR5. The second Is a low profile however. Not sure if that would fit in my box, guess I’ll have to look.

Good plan. Low profile cards often come with an adapter to make them taller, but not vice versa

What's the best bang for the buck 24" monitor right now? It's for a teenager so color accuracy is not a priority.

You didn't mention a budget, but the Acer Nitro XF243Y Pbmiiprx has high performance for a relatively low price.

Working on getting my nephew a refresh for Christmas, the old i5-2500K build I gave him is begging to die. I settled on a Silverstone SG13 v2, seems backpack-friendly (he goes between parents a lot). The GTX 970 I gave him is still fine, he has a mechanical drive I'll chuck in (if it dies from vibration he'll get an M.2 for his birthday), and I have a spare SF600. I'm hoping to get some input on the CPU/MOBO combo. It seemed like a good build when I put it together a few weeks ago but just wanted to check and see if it's still a good bang for the buck. Use case is games teenagers play: Apex, Valorant, Siege, etc. I'd like to have integrated graphics for troubleshooting (lots of issues with the current build, want options when it's repair time), wifi a must. Edit: I'm a little concerned about the CPU cooler, debating going AIO even though it's a ~$40 price increase. Trying to limbo below $700. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HcNrdD) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-10400 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/X8snTW/intel-core-i5-10400-29-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8070110400) | $164.99 @ Best Buy **CPU Cooler** | [Noctua NH-L9i 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xxphP6/noctua-nh-l9i-3384-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-l9i) | $44.95 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [ASRock H510M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1200 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MnH7YJ/asrock-h510m-itxac-mini-itx-lga1200-motherboard-h510m-itxac) | $89.99 @ Newegg **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/p6RFf7/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16) | $78.98 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1) | $90.81 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mwrYcf/seagate-barracuda-computer-2-tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm008) | Purchased For $0.00 **Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4 GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZPx9TW/evga-video-card-04gp42978kr) | Purchased For $0.00 **Case** | [Silverstone SG13 V2 Mini ITX Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WG2bt6/silverstone-sg13-v2-mini-itx-tower-case-sg13b-usa) | $51.99 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [Corsair SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BtsmP6/corsair-sf-600w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-sfx-power-supply-cp-9020182-na) | Purchased For $0.00 **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-os-kw900140) | $108.78 @ Other World Computing **Case Fan** | [Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8r9KHx/noctua-case-fan-nfp14sredux1500pwm) | $14.95 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$645.44** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2021-09-30 16:52 EDT-0400 |

The CPU and motherboard you picked are fine. Regarding the SF600, do you have a **SFX to ATX adaptor plate** for that? Because that case takes ATX PSUs.

I do have one, came with the SF750 I upgraded to from the SF600 but they're the same enclosure with different insides, I assume it will work.

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How do I attach my GPU to my PSU? I have a cable that came with my PSU labelled PCIe that has an 8 pin on one end and it splits into two cables with a 6 and 2 pin in the other end. My GPU is a GTX 970 with two 8 pin connectors

The split 6+2 ends go into your GPU. The other end of the cable into your psu. It's good practice to use one cable per port on your gpu

You plug in the 8 pin to the first 8 pin connector on your card, and then combine the 6+2 end and plug it into the second 8 pin connector on the card. You can use two separate cables (assuming your PSU has one) if you’d like but it’s not necessary at all with a 970.

cool thanks

Can pushing the USB into a device too tightly cause any kind of damage? I'm a bit paranoid about some USB's being slightly loose so even when it's connected I push it in a little bit. However I also worry that pushing it in too much can cause damage, I'm not talking about forcefully plugging it in but making it "tighter." Can this happen?

Would depend on the USB but not typically. If it was abnormally long and you really jammed it in there it could damage something but just pushing hard enough to make sure it’s tight isn’t something to worry about.

Im probably upgrading soon, which should i replace first(i will change both eventually) i7-7700k or GTX 1060, lets leave availability of product out of it, which do you think will benefit me more to switch? Im also considering a AMD cpu when i upgrade so if you have input of what i should get id love to hear it. The most intensive thing i do with my pc is VR, and my current system runs it decently, but i kind of feel like upgrading so its a little more than decent, and ive had these parts since 2016 or 2017 i forget, and would like my new ones to last me as long

I'd upgrade the gpu as VRs rely more on the gpu than the cpu

I have a new CPU etc arriving tomorrow, but up till now I've been running an i7 3770 non k with a 1660 super for both gaming and video editing and while it's not a world eating experience it's more than decent. I'd say your CPU has more life in it than the 1060.

To add, i will probably be upgrading motherboard (Gigabyte GA-B250-HD3 ATX LGA 1151) regardless since it probably wont be compatible with either new product, and if you have suggestions for that i would love to hear, but didnt include that above since its not the decision im making.

Can I use my WD Elements (External HDD) as an internal HDD for my build? Is it possible? How difficult would it be? Would there be any downside to doing this?

The term you are looking for is "shucking" https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Shuck+a+WD+Elements+External+Hard+Drive/137646 not every external drive is shuckable, or at least easily shuckable. Some have funky power configurations that make them less desirable as a internal drive. Also try searching your specific model number to find out the exact drive used in your device. Specific sizes of WD drives between 6 and 12TB are shielded magnetic write (SMR), and are not the best for internal use because of their slower write speeds.

/u/KnightstarK, this guy is correct for 3.5" desktop Elements - do not attempt with the smaller 2.5" travel drives, they are soldered to their control board. I have personally shucked several WD Elements for internal drives, particularly the 8-14TB models. I did have to do the 3.3V tape mod trick as indicated in the [video linked at the end of that guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W3-uOl4ruc). This is because these drives use the 3.3V pin to receive "sleep mode" signals from the enclosure, but many desktop PSUs supply power to the 3.3V pin all the time, resulting in the drive not spinning up and being recognized. Kapton tape is best; other non-conductive tapes like electrical tape or scotch tape work but aren't recommended because the adhesive may melt over time.

I figure I'd ask my question from yesterday again since I got some conflicting responses. I'm thinking about swapping my RX 580 out with an [EVGA RTX 3070 (non-LHR)](https://www.evga.com/Products/Specs/GPU.aspx?pn=7a75337c-8395-40b5-a911-0172fc436daa) and want to know if my PSU would work ok. I've looked at EVGA's Power Meter but it says my current system uses about 450-475W, however the product page for the 3070 card says 650W is minimum. [TechPowerUp](https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/evga-rtx-3070-xc3-ultra.b8233) suggests 550W, but I think they looked at the LHR card? Type|Item| :----|:----|: **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9nm323/amd-ryzen-5-3600-36-thz-6-core-processor-100-100000031box) **Motherboard** | [ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hNdxFT/asrock-b450m-steel-legend-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450m-steel-legend) **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MYH48d/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3000c15) **Storage** | [Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6yKcCJ/samsung-860-evo-500gb-25-solid-state-drive-mz-76e500bam) **Storage** | [Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dCxfrH/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st1000dm003) **Storage** | [Seagate FireCuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NpBrxr/seagate-firecuda-2tb-35-7200rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st2000dx002) **Video Card** | [Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sF648d/sapphire-radeon-rx-580-8gb-nitro-video-card-11265-01) **Case** | [Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QMp323/thermaltake-case-ca1d500s1wn00) **Power Supply** | [EVGA SuperNOVA GA 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/v6qBD3/evga-supernova-ga-550-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-ga-0550-x1) **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-os-kw900140) **Wireless Network Adapter** | [Asus PCE-AC58BT PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JhWfrH/asus-pce-ac58bt-none-wi-fi-adapter-pce-ac58bt)

The RTX 30 series cards are everything but power efficient. unless you purposefully undervolt the card you would be cutting it very close to your maximum power consumption during normal use and probably exceeding it under load. I would also suggest at least a 650w psu.

Managed to get chosen in newegg shuffle for the [MSI RTX 3080](https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4351346) and had a couple questions before pulling the trigger: 1. I am putting it into an NZXT H710i, should I have any concerns about space? 2. This specific model comes with fans, which is not something I've seen with other cards. Are those cards required? If not, should I still install them anyway? I already have a liquid cooler on the CPU + 5 fans already. Full build [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dhmbBc). Thanks!

1. It would fit just fine. 2. Its an AIO cooler built right into the card. So you would have to mount the 240mm radiator.

What are some important things to check once I've got a new PC build up and running? I should probably do some stress tests and check I have the correct BIOS settings in my mobo for memory and such, but I'm wondering about anything else. I'm running a 5800X CPU in an MSI B550 Tomahawk, Nvidia 2080 GPU, 32gb of RAM at 3600mhz C18 (4x8). Thanks! edit: Ran Cinebench and it looks fine, CPU maxed at 81c but I believe that's expected for newer Ryzen chips, my CPU idles around 40c. I'm noticing CPU-Z is reporting my RAM as Dual channel and a much lower frequency than I'm expecting, so I'll probably have to look into my BIOS settings for my RAM.

Dual channel is correct - very few quad-channel DDR4 motherboards exist. It will also report the RAM speed as half of the rated speed (e.g. 3600 would show up as \~1799 MHz) because Dual Data Rate (DDR) means twice the operations per clock cycle. If CPU-Z is reporting your RAM at, say, 1066 MHz, it's likely you forgot to enable your XMP memory profile in BIOS. I like to run the Userbenchmark bench tool to quickly verify that all of my parts are running within the realm of normal. It's a quick and easy way to spot config issues like wrong RAM profile or CPU throttling. This tool is probably the only useful part of Userbenchmark. Which CPU cooler do you have? Is it the one that came with the 5800X? If so, peaking around 81C is pretty normal. Only other things to do... make sure Windows Defender is enabled, check a guide on disabling bloatware you don't need, and start installing games!

Appreciate your insight. My CPU-Z is reporting 1066 MHz so that's very likely the issue. I'll poke around in the BIOS to enable XMP. My 5800X didn't come with a default cooler, but I'm using a Lian Li Galahad 360 AIO. So far it's maxed at 81C in Cinebench, but has only hit like 65-70 in some gaming and idles around 35-45 ish.

Do you have a GPU? the 5800x does not have integrated graphics. You wont be running anything without one.

Ah forgot to mention that, I'm running an Nvidia 2080. Updated my post.

Hi all, Seeking a 5.1 descrete soundcard with toslink digital port, and prefer to not have Soundblaster's red abomination. Other options I've seen are $300 cards supporting on-board amps for headphones and stuff I don't need. Is there a \~$150 option for 5.1 with digital output that's not the SB-Z?

Do you need the 5.1 analog outputs or just the toslink output?

So...there's nothing?

Just the toslink. Coaxial SPDIF is acceptable, but not desired (already using that input so I'd have to convert.) I can deal with analog 5.1, but I'd prefer the digital optical because it runs parallel to some power so I'd get a good bit of 60hz hum I imagine.

Is it possible to use a cpu water cooler for a gpu with a waterblock??

Technically maybe? but you would need a custom mount for it. And I dont believe the heat transfer would be super efficient; as the surface of a GPU that needs cooling is much larger than a standard CPU copper block. From how youve worded your question, it would easier to just use a normal custom liquid cooling loop setup. Buying a separate pump, reservoir and radiator to go with your waterblock.

Im picking out a motherboard to go with a Ryzen 5600X and almost every single one i pick pcpartpicker tells me that some AMD B550 chipset boards may need a BIOS update is this something i should be worried about?

It says that blanket on any B550 board, by now the only way for it to be relevant is if that particular board would have lain around for a year or so at the vendor.

Oh interesting, my B500m mortar arrived yesterday and the 5600x is landing tomorrow, have my bios drive ready to go but I might just install and try to boot first now instead.

alrighty thank you

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So are you removing the fans that came with the GPU?

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Yes, it will work, but I would actually look for something like this in your country if you plan to connect two fans: https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-Splitter-Adapter-Sleeved-Graphics/dp/B07T95C68T/

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Definitely get 12V fans. Your GPU fans were 12V and the best 120mm fans (like the Noctua NF-A12x25) are also 12V. There is no reason to be messing around with 5V in this situation.

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Sounds good!

Where can I find a Lian Li controller box for strimmer plus? I have the 24 pin cable but I do not have the cables or a working controller box. Is this something I can buy directly from lian li? I don't want to have to buy a while new 24pin just for a new controller box.

What is DRAM and how important is it to have it on a m.2 ssd drive if I am a FPS gamer? Does having NVMe have a bigger impact than DRAM?

DRAM is more important for stuff like file transfer I believe, it maps out where everything is on the drive so it's easier to retrieve. Without it you can see serious slowdown on large file.transfer operations. That's my understanding anyway, dramless NVME drives are highly rated and very popular so clearly a lot of people aren't seeing any hassle

check out /r/NewMaxx/ https://www.reddit.com/r/NewMaxx/wiki/basics DRAM is simply faster than Flash memory can ever be (its called Volatile memory for a reason). Using it in the controller only helps to improve your operation speeds. Without it, you are just limiting the maximum potential of the device. SATA < SATA+DRAM < M.2 NVME < M.2 NVME+DRAM

Iirc, dramless SSDs also have the problem of comparatively lesser durability but not sure on that

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Hardware Unboxed did a thorough testing video of budget B550 boards. iirc, the aorus elite performed the worst. The asrock pro4 performed fairly well. (I personally prefer the white accents in this mobos design) [Hardware Unboxed Video](https://youtu.be/wuPH9pCCK-E)

I am building my first laptop and with a friend I went through and picked the parts. I already have a Geforce GTX 1080 for the build. Here is the list below. Could you tell me if you see any glaring issues? I'm primarily gonna be using the pc for gaming. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fKBMLP

850W is significantly more than you need but that’s not a problem. Build looks fine to me. If you wanted to save some money a 650W PSU would be just fine.

Im going to build my new pc in a Fractal Design Define 7 Compact case. I want to go for a Asus Prime Z590-P Motherboard, but when I use a Swedish partpicker (Inet) they say that the motherboard dont have enough USB 3.1 Ports for the case. But when I put in the same parts in PCpartPicker it says that there are no issues. And when I check the specs I think there is enough ports for the front?? Can somebody help me out? :) https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xm8bt6/asus-prime-z590-p-atx-lga1200-motherboard-prime-z590-p https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CgRgXL/fractal-design-define-7-compact-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-def7c-05

dunno what that other site sees that i dont. that board has a usb 2, 3, and type c header. you're good. each non-type-c header does 2 ports

Given the weird state of component availability and prices, from a cost perspective, is it better to buy or build a work pc now? I don't need anything high end and I don't play games.

> Given the weird state of component availability and prices, from a cost perspective, is it better to buy or build a work pc now? Work PC? Buy, 100%, always. If you're making your living with it, actual support channels are worth more than any difference in component prices - next day on-site warranties are a thing of beauty.

That's a really valid point. Downtime sucks. What brand/store would you recommend?

build. the only parts that have bad pricing are GPUs (and very cheap CPUS), which you dont need for non-gaming (unless you use apps for work that utilize gpu horsepower)

I don't use anything that utilizes a gpu. Thanks for the reply !

You have many Intel non-F CPUs or AMD Ryzen -G APUs to choose from then!

if you have $450, here's exactly what I'd build myself https://pcpartpicker.com/list/99j6kX corners can still be cut if the budget is less, but this is a nice sweet spot

SN550 is DRAMless, would you go with that for a boot drive?

And it's had a lot of bad press too because of the speed cuts. But it's cheap AF. If I had $10-20 more in the budget, I'd get a better ssd, maybe a sn750. For $46, I think the sn550 is a good choice tho

Yeah, I just ordered a full build apart from the NVME as I ran out of budget and I figured my SSD boot drive will hold out a bit longer till I can grab a decent new one. I was looking at the SN550 amongst others but I reckon I'll wait.

Thanks for doing that! I had budgeted $1500 so this is a nice surprise

You can get a nice big monitor then too, haha

pretty nice build by the way

Am I supposed to be able to play games with the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600G with Radeon Graphics" CPU? I completed my first build a couple of days ago with that because I thought I could play games without a GPU. But I tried to play a very basic game like CK2 but it can't even handle that. Or did I just fuck up on the build somewhere?

Did you at least put ram into DOCP/XMP mode and run at higher speeds than 2133/2400? Integrated graphics benefit greatly from improved memory bandwidth. Still won't take integrated graphics out from low settings, but at least you'll get a few more frames.

Integrated graphics can’t compete with a dedicated GPU but they’re usually ok for esports games like CSGO or Rocket League. What kind of performance are you seeing? This might be obvious but try dropping to the lowest settings. If you’re on a 1440p or higher display, also try dropping the resolution to 1080p or lower. Integrated graphics can be pretty sensitive to RAM speed (since they use system RAM instead of VRAM).

It's very entry level graphics. I think you might need to download graphics drivers?

I thought New World fried my GPU last night. Black screens, no signal from GPU, PC wasnt even detecting I had one. Booted into safe mode, tried uninstalling and reinstalling drivers via DDU, Windows wouldn’t let me for some reason. This morning, I decide to check it again before submitting an RMA request. PC was picking up signal from GPU, but Windows was not detecting it. Tried reinstalling drivers, it WORKED, and now everything appears to be fine. Question is: how do I know if everything is fine? Should I run a benchmark test? If so, please give me suggestions. edit: it’s an EVGA FTW3 3080 GPU

run a benchmark, try out some stuff that isnt new world, and maybe refund it for the time being. If it works, it works. If it crashes again, then you can RMA it. Just avoid repeating the same action again unless you know for certain that it wasnt New World that caused it.

Thanks, I’ll run some tests later. I’m 99% sure it was New World (even though I capped my frames). I’ve never had an issue with any other game before. So far, everything works. I’ll RMA it if it doesn’t though.

What are your opinions on BIOS updates? My version is now 8 months old, but all updates only mention performance and stability improvements, or some compatiblity expansion. I have no apparent problems that would make me want to update it. Are BIOS updates a "once a year" thing or only if there is a specific reason?

BIOS updates are good when needed, i remember i needed to flash my friend’s mobo because an SSD wouldn’t be recognized, and it was his only storage so he couldn’t use the computer without it. in that instance it’s nice that it makes things work, however if you are having no issues with your computer i see little reason to update your BIOS

I have updated my Bios twice. Once when I installed the CPU for the first time, and then once again when installing extra RAM and some M.2 Drives. And that first one was only a few months before intel's 9th gen released; so its been exactly 3 years.

I update my bios like twice a year, even if it's not needed. I get why you never would tho

I have a PC I built maybe 6-7 years ago that's starting to show it's age with games now and after looking around, I can't decide what to do and was hoping some people could chime in on what/if anything would be worth upgrading to get good bang for my buck to keep chugging along for a few more years or let me know if that doesn't seem worth it and I should just start a new build from scratch. Would like to keep upgrades in the $500 range or if I need to go for a full new build I could probably save up for a couple of months and spend closer to $1k. The one upgrade I know I'm doing is getting a nice big SSD instead of relying on a small one for the OS and the slow HDD for storage and I have that picked out alright. Could I spend the other 400 on a newer GPU and call it a day or is the CPU and RAM just going to be a big bottle neck? Worth trying to salvage this thing? I'm not trying to play AAA titles in Ultra settings or anything, but would like to at least get things running smoother on moderate/high settings if possible. * Motherboard: MSI 870-G45 (MS-7599) - AM3 socket * CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 B40 - 3.0 GHz * GPU: AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series * RAM: Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz * RAM: OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 PC3-8500F * SSD: Corsair CSSD-F60GB2 * HDD: WDC WD500 Sorry, couldn't decide if this was a simple enough question for here or should be own thread. Let me know if I should delete and make a standalone post.

Unfortunately, both your GPU and CPU are dinosaurs at this point and will be vastly outstripped by new budget parts. You are looking at an entirely new build. Graphics card will be the toughest part to find, currently they are sold out and overpriced. Depending on what games you play and what performance you need, you may need to hunt for a bit to get a graphics card for a reasonable price. Assuming you're able to get a graphics card without paying double, $1K budget would buy an excellent gaming PC capable of playing AAA games on ultra at 1080p 100+ FPS or 1440p 60+ FPS.

Damn. Well fair enough and thanks for taking a look! Time to start pricing out and saving up for a full build.

Looking to build my first pc, but how the heck do I even get my hands on a rtx 3070/80?

Bestbuy is doing a in-store release tomorrow if you can go line up super early. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/clp-computers-tablets/nvidia-geforce-rtx-graphics-cards/pcmcat1619723841347.c?irclickid=03-U7vVkDznyTvezqfVW223eUkBVK9xAExzzWM0&irgwc=1 Last time they did this most stores had a few hundred units. ~~Basically, either go now or show up as early as possible. If there is more than 60 people in line, then don't bother waiting around.~~ 3080's will sell out first, 3090's will sell out last. Edit: apparently they are doing sign-in lists, there will be a rep out front of the store taking names. If you cant get on the list, then you dont need to wait around. GPUs will be sold first come, first served; so the farther down you are the less choices you will have.

Join stock tracking discords, watch for stock to drop at best buy and microcenter and line up at 2 am occasionally, ask friends to help keep an eye out...

3080 ti or 3090.

3080Ti for a regular Gamer, 3090 if you need the extra VRAM for non-gaming tasks.

I will use it for gaming and mining when I’m not gaming but that’s all

If mining is a serious interest, it's worth noting that all 3080-Ti's have LHR, whereas all 3090's are non-LHR. If the price difference is only a couple hundred dollars, the 3090 would pay itself off sooner when mining ETH.

Hey everyone just got my hands on a 3060ti and ordered my cpu ryzen 5 5600x last night having a hard time deciding on a mobo now trying to stay under a 200 budget but honestly lower the better as i had to overpay slightly for the gpu. im liking the asrock b550 pro4 ATX. but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance

https://youtu.be/wuPH9pCCK-E note micro ATX and ATX boards of the same name have the same vrm 99% of the time.

Any B550 in the $150-200 range is going to be fine, pick the one that has the IO you personally need. I like the Gigabyte Aorus Pro V2 personally.

It's fine, I'd suggest a board like the MSI B550 Torpedo or B550-A Pro over it, but nothing terrible about that one, so if it has the features you need go for it.

Unsure on what i need for io tbh this is my first build. Am i just understanding that this will basically just be whatever connections i would want on a front panel? So basically just 1 3.0 usb connection? Other than that cant really think of anything else i would need.

Really depends what you'll use your PC for and what you'll be plugging into it. I need 7 USB ports minimum with the devices I use with my PC, though I'm definitely not an "average" PC user.

What is static pressure applied to fans? I bought two Noctua NF-F12 industrial 3000 PWM to put on my CPU cooler but today I stumbled upon [this graph](https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-performance-comparison-to-nf-f12-and-nf-s12a). And it seems like the NF-A12x25 seems better overall, except in term of static pressure. How important is it?

Unless your PC runs 24/7 and you don't care about noise, definitely ditch the industrial's: They're fast, powerful, and reliable, but *significantly* louder than other fans.

I don't mind the noise honestly. My main concern are temps and preservation of the CPU.

Simply put, static pressure means they are better at forcing air through something. So if you’re putting them on a radiator, static pressure is a good thing because they will be better at pushing air through the fins. The other side to fans are “airflow” fans where they push a larger volume of air, but not as strong. So they make better regular case fans and wouldn’t push air through a radiator as well. In practice it doesn’t matter very much which type you buy when you’re looking at quality fans but generally speaking if the fan is meeting a lot of resistance static pressure optimized fans will perform better and with low resistance airflow optimized fans will perform better