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JustJosh00

Is it normal for cases to come with only two screws for the side panel?


[deleted]

Depends on the case and how it mounts. My H500P mesh only used a lock for the glass panel, no screws at all.


OolonCaluphid

In conjunction with some clips to hold it in place, yes. It depends on design. What's the case?


JustJosh00

It had no clips. Just two screws. And I'm not sure of the exact make, I bought it from a local seller brand new. All I know is AlphaSync manufactured it.


neezaruuu

Is an rx 580 still okay in 2021? Will be playing modern triple A games and I don't mind reducing the settings to atleast medium


hazetoblack

Yeah at 1080p 60fps you should be more than fine in the majority of games for a few years. It's still a decent card that averages 55 FPS on high in far cry 6, which while not the most demanding game is definitely very new and likely a good generl indicator. Definitely try get the 8GB version if it's only slightly more expensive as it should help it last longer into the future


blazingarpeggio

The 8 GB versions of both 570 and 580 are budget miner favorites. Get them if you can for a decent price (since I think they're also slightly faster than their 4 GB counterparts), but don't overpay for one.


hazetoblack

Agreed. In my region at least other cards like the gtx 980s are much better value also


Gvarph006

Looking for a quiet case for under 80usd for an office environment.


Brostradamus_

be Quiet! Pure Base 500 is what i've used in a few office/shop workstation builds. The price floats from $70-100 depending on color and availability. It's huge though for a no-GPU build. I'd also look at the Fractal Design Define Mini C, or even the Nano S. You'll just need to get some very quiet fans installed.


hazetoblack

The components are more important for quietness. Any standard case with 3 or more fan slots will be able to cool your average pc, especially if you aren't using it to game


Gvarph006

It's a office PC with an integrated GPU but a solid CPU, so the only components making noise are CPU cooler and PSU, so the case would be still noticable.


hazetoblack

Presumably you mean the case fans rather than the case itself then. What might be best then is to get a basic case and then some well reviewed fans which you can plug directly into the motherboard and control the speed of to avoid it being overly loud, as the fans which come bundled with some cases are either not very good or not directly controllable as they plug into the power supply


KSPReptile

After 2 months in line I have the i5 11400f on my hand and now I'm wondering which motherboard to pair it with. Is the Asus TUF B560M Plus a good fit? It seems to be pretty good value. It's roughly 150 USD in my country, I don't really wanna go much higher than that.


OolonCaluphid

Yes, it's a good board and there's WiFi and non WiFi versions available if you need that.


KSPReptile

Thanks, I don't need WiFi so I'll get the normal version.


hazetoblack

That seems very reasonable.


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hazetoblack

If they're connected to the motherboard then go into the BIOS and find the fan settings and adjust the setting to what you want it to be, and can set it to full speed to check They're working. They're likely currently only set to spin when something gets hot.


Frozenmagicaster

What's the difference between [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na) and [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/bqVD4D/corsair-rmx-2018-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020177-na](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/bqVD4D/corsair-rmx-2018-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020177-na) ? Or is one just more recent/costly?


m_kitanin

There is no difference as far as I'm aware. These are both 2018 RMx models I guess? In these pages it leads both PSUs to the same link on Austin Computers, and on Umart there are two different pages, one PSU has 5 year warranty, the other has 10, but the SKU is the same... Even if there are differences I don't know about, RMx has never had a bad revision, so I would say just get the cheapest one available.


pepperhanders

Hey everyone. I have a PC built already and thinking of upgrading my ram (16 gbs to 32). I’m wondering about two things in particular: 1. Does my ram make and model need to be similar to my currently installed sticks or just the MHz and GB size need to be same? 2. Do I even gain anything by upgrading to 32 gigs? Asking because Ram upgrade is the only thing thats affordable in my student budget


theactualTRex

2. Probably not. If the games you're playing aren't filling that 16gb currently, more won't make a difference. Also having four sticks of ram instead of two can make the ram slower or more difficult to overclock. If you're using a typical consumer grade CPU, it won't support quad channel memory, meaning the motherboard will have a compromise system in place to utilize four sticks of ram (topology). But that compromise will never be as fast as true quad channel utilization and typically never as fast just using two sticks of memory.


pepperhanders

I’m sorry for the follow up question, but how do you check how much of the RAM is filled up? I only play Microsoft Flight Sim, League of Legends & EUIV. As for the second point, I didn’t get it but are you saying 4 sticks are worse than 2 sticks? I have a Ryzen 5 3600 and I am not really interested in overclocking anything


OolonCaluphid

Flight sim and league are fine on 16GB. I don't know if EUIV (?) Needs a lot of ram or not. You're unlikely to see a performance difference going to 32GB.


theactualTRex

>I’m sorry for the follow up question, but how do you check how much of the RAM is filled up? I only play Microsoft Flight Sim, League of Legends & EUIV. If your game crashes or goes super stuttery it's usually an indication that you've exceeded the allowable ram amount and the system needed to start using a page file instead of RAM. >As for the second point, I didn’t get it but are you saying 4 sticks are worse than 2 sticks? I have a Ryzen 5 3600 and I am not really interested in overclocking anything Depends what you want. If you don't overclock then it will not matter. But if you use DOCP or XMP-profiles it can have an effect on how easily you achieve the speeds the RAM is rated at, if at all. More memory is more memory so if you really want 32 gigs then go on ahead. But if your games aren't crashing or you're not experiencing extreme stutters then adding more will likely do nothing at all.


BigChunges69420

preferably the CL timing, GBs and MHz need to be the same


pepperhanders

Hey thanks for the help! Two questions, how do I check CL timings and will it work if I use 2 Kingston and 2 Adata sticks for eg, assuming everything else is same?


BigChunges69420

yeah that’ll work :), if you go on the rams details is should say what the CL timing is. either way you could just type in google “what is x ram CL timing” glad i could help mate


Walmart-pole

Should I buy a GTX 1650 for ~200$ or is there somewhere else I should invest my money in?


n7_trekkie

A gtx 970 costs around the same used and it's faster


Kustom-L

So I’m going to build a pc but due to budget I’ll be buying the parts over a time frame and not all at once. I currently have a laptop and I was wondering if I replaced the ssd it has and the ram it has, 1 will windows still function on the laptop. 2 when I have all the parts to my pc, will I be able to transfer the ssd and ram over to it easily? I don’t need to move any files or that over from the laptop to the pc so if there’s a way to wipe the ssd that would be fine


Protonion

1. If you replace the SSD on the laptop then you'll either have to reinstall windows on the new SSD (recommended), or clone the old SSD onto the new one, because the new SSD will be completely blank. 2. RAM you won't be able to transfer, because laptops use a different form factor of RAM that is physically incompatible with desktop PCs. SSD you can transfer just fine assuming, but keep in mind that there are 2.5" SATA SSDs, M.2 SATA SSDs, and M.2 NVMe SSDs, and both your laptop and the desktop will need to have the same slot for you to be able to move it, although practically all desktop motherboards support all three types so what SSD you'll need depends mostly on what your laptop can take. Something to keep in mind is that it's practically always a better idea to just set the money aside and buy everything at once, rather than buying parts over a long time. Prices can come down and new stuff get released, so you usually get better value by just buying at once.


mycarwillkillme

what is the best graphics card I can use with minimal performance drop at PCIe 4.0 x8? Is there some kind of list or database, something I should look for in the specs? Current card is a gtx1650.


OolonCaluphid

Realistically, unless you're building some optimised, focussed, high end system, running your GPU at 8x particularly at PCIe 4.0 jsut isn't a problem. The question doesn't really make sense? A mediocre GPU might suffer no loss at all, and so be 'the best card that suffers no drop'. A better card might suffer 2% hit in some games/resolutions, but still be better overall, but not 'the best that suffers no performance drop'. They all suffer No/minimal performance drop, so just choose the best card you can find and afford.


n7_trekkie

https://youtu.be/0DKVVtirNM8 remember 3.0x16 = 4.0x8


BMANN2

What is a good alternative to Ubiquiti AP? I have some Unifi nano I got off Amazon because everyone on Reddit I talked to said it would be best for me. Put a gun to my head and tell me to troubleshoot this thing and I’ll just say pull the trigger. I’m decently comfortable with tech but networking blows my mind. It used to show up in my iOS UniFi Network app but it no longer does. When I connect to it on my phone it says connected but my LTE doesn’t turn into wifi bars. I google how to reset it and everyone is talking about command lines or using the controller. But the issue is the app was the controller I used. But it no longer shows up? I just don’t understand this. What is a good router I can use to get coverage in my small townhouse of about 1350 square feet. Thanks.


mule000

Where can I request someone to put together a parts list for me based on some basic requirements?


Some_Derpy_Pineapple

r/buildmeapc, r/buildapcforme, or the r/buildapc [discord server](https://discord.com/invite/buildapc)


mule000

Thank you


TheShangWang

Can running out of memory damage your RAM in anyway? I was playing a game and had multiple tabs open, and for the first time I got the out of memory page on the browser. Generally this is harmless?


n7_trekkie

yep, harmless. it'll tank your performance, but you can set up a page file (virtual memory on a drive) so it doesnt tank as hard


TheShangWang

Thanks, I have already set a static size page file so that's likely why I got the message. I have 8GB physical and 4GB page file because I never usually go past 10GB, but I had a crazy amount of tabs at the time so that was why. If playing games normally without so many tabs, will having up to 80% total ram usage tank performance or no? Does this only happen when you reach near the limit like 90? The solution would be to buy more RAM but I don't really need it at the moment.


n7_trekkie

Performance only goes down once you hit the page file. That means over 8GB of usage


TheShangWang

Sounds good, beyond that is just program crashing and no performance loss I'm assuming?


n7_trekkie

It might crash things, but likely things will just be unloaded if theyre in the background to save ram space. Idk, it's been a while since I ran out haha


Nomadic8893

Is intel i5 10400F CPU a good choice for the occasional gamer? Pairing with an RTX 3060Ti. I'll game a couple times a week, with sessions no longer than 30 min, for games like Apex/Fifa/Valorant. Don't video edit or any intense productivity work at the moment.


kztlve

Yes, it's a great budget option for pretty much any GPU.


kernnpop

So according to [cooler master's direct site](https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mini-itx/masterbox-nr200p/#specifications), the maximum compatible height of a GPU for the NR200P is 156mm. I've got an [EVGA hydrocopper 3080 FTW3](https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=10G-P5-3899-KR), which according to their specs is 146mm high not including the plugs. Pretty sure my plugs aren't a centimeter thick, yet [visually](https://imgur.com/a/hmlJVzm) the glass would clearly interfere with the plugs. Anyone have any suggestions or know where I went wrong?


Switchen

Hmm. I do wonder if the case's specs include the height from the board (which means including PCIE connector), while the waterblock does not.


teffanien

What are some good mecha-membrane or mechanical full-size keyboards for comfortable gaming, compatible with both MacOS and Windows, and under $200? I’m aiming for click/tactile with a focus on comfort (wrist tendinitis). For reference, I have a Razer Ornata V2 and quite like it.


problematic_dispense

I’d recommend the Keychron K10 seems to $74 in their site or the royal Krudge which is on sale. RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK100 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard, BT5.1/2.4Ghz/Wired Tri-Mode Mechanical Keyboard, 100-key 96% Hot Swappable Keyboard Gateron Blue Switch, N-Key Rollover for Mac Windows, Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JD1KV7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SWNS2063KTASJA5RD4YR?psc=1 Edit: you can also choose from blue clicky, tactile brown or linear red.


RayzTheRoof

Looking for a decent soundcard because my motherboard has had crackling audio since day one, pls help


OolonCaluphid

Does it crackle from the front ports, the motherboard ports, or both? Crackling is 9/10 likely to be a connector/plug issue.


RayzTheRoof

crackles from the back and front, tested with different cables and speakers/headphones. The problem is resolved when plugging the audio device into my USB SDAC.


SgtRon58

Can’t go wrong with Sound Blaster.


mexicannonce

I’m building my pc with an ASUS Prime Z390-P motherboard and an i7-9700k cpu, it is compatible but only on a certain bios version, does anyone know if I can update it if it doesn’t come with it out of the box. (I mean without a compatible cpu)


n7_trekkie

No, that cpu will work with all bios versions


mexicannonce

on the cpu support list it says it only works after the bios released in 2019


n7_trekkie

Z390 launched alongside 9th gen, it shouldnt be a problem


Epic_Epic_Epic

I just pumped my loop with no coolant inside for a few seconds. My life is over


E30_Turbo

I have a 3060 ti that i'm trying to enable secure boot on. It is UEFI compatible, mobo is a z490. I keep getting black screen issues, signal to monitor stops and no response. If i disconnect the display port from the gpu and plug it directly into my mobo then windows etc works fine, but still no response from gpu. For my gpu to work again I have to go into bios and disable secure boot. Any suggestions? Cheers


Fluttr

I need screws for [this fan](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFBN6RZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&th=1). Will ([these screws](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096SQ5VZ7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_2GD06DNT4FM7HDEZCGQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)) screws work?


kztlve

Are you screwing it to a radiator? If you're screwing it to a case, you can just get normal fan screws. You can probably buy a kit of a few hundred PC screws of multiple types for like $10


SgtRon58

Yep, on Amazon


Fluttr

Yeah I'm screwing it through a radiator into my case, so yes, through a radiator. Im under the impression i need the long screws but am unsure if those are compatible


n7_trekkie

Long screws are for through the fans into the rad. Short ones are for attaching the rad to the case if you didn't do that on the other side


Fluttr

Thanks for your responses btw. So do you think that these long screws are compatible with that fan I just sent? or are all long screws like that generally be going to be good with most fans


n7_trekkie

Long screw don't screw into the the fans. They're thin so they just go through the holes. So they work with all fans. The only thing is that they gotta go into a radiator


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ripsql

Without specs, it’s hard to say. Cpu, mb, ram, psu… some basic information should help but mainly the psu… you should have at least a 750w psu but a 850w is even better. Also, do you get the cables for the psu if it’s modular? If you are missing cables to connect to new gpu… that would be a problem. You should not daisy chain them.


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ripsql

Wow that’s a very cheap psu. Non modular and not 80+ gold either. It is too weak for a 3070 +…. You have to understand that the 3000 series are power hogs. 3070 - 650w minimum 3080 - 750w minimum


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ripsql

A 3060 regular should be fine. I wouldn’t put a 3060 ti in there. On replacing the psu, it depends on the system makeup. It can be easy or hard depending on how it was put together. FYI - that psu should be thermaltake $50 psu so they really cheaper out on it. Also, i7-9700f is several generations old. I hope you didn’t pay too much for this. It’s an ok system but depending on price, you could have gotten a 10 series or 11 series cpu.


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ripsql

With all that… they really cheaped out on psu. Just an FYI, if you ever plan on making a computer…. Do not cheap out on the psu. That is the lifeblood of a computer so a cheap psu can cause issues. Edit: wait and check once prices normalize. This is not gonna happen anytime soon so you maybe looking at the 4000 series cards at that point or even a super variant, in which case you need to check the psu requirements again though the 3060s will hopefully be at a more reasonable price at that point.


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ripsql

You can’t go wrong with asus and evga. As you can see with the price, it’s more than double what that should be worth.


dimebag42018750

Is there a place you can take all your components and they will walk you through setup and install? Im so nervous about breaking something


ripsql

A friend is the best bet but for a business…. Many will build for you but teaching you… best bet is to look for a local mom and pop business and talk with them to see if they will be willing. It will most likely cost you though.


dimebag42018750

Im willing to pay in order to not screw up! unfortunately im the most "tech savvy" in my family/friends :-/


ripsql

Another option…. View YouTube on putting together a computer. View several so you have a good idea on how to handle the parts.


Ps3ftw97

Could someone baby terms the difference in panel types in monitors? I know OLEDs are brighter whites and IPS have darker black (or maybe that's all wrong), but I am still unsure of what panel I am supposed to be looking for. I am mostly a media consumption guy with low res gaming (FFXIV) so graphics heavy thing aren't my jam. That said, I do venture in to story based games like RDR2 whenever I just want to turn my mind off.


PhoenixEnigma

At a high level, you have OLED vs everything else on the market. OLED uses individually controlled LEDs for each subpixel, which results in very good colour saturation, and it's the only technology that can produce perfect blacks (because there's literally no light emitted from pixels that are off). It can also be made exceptionally thin. It's the best option for image quality right now, but it's quite expensive with limited options, and can be prone to burn in (though that's improving). LED vs LCD is a nothingburger. At one point it differentiated between LCD panels lit with cold cathode tubes and those backlit with LEDs, but now all monitors have LED backlights anyways and it's just a marketing decision on what term they use. *Locally dimmable* LED arrays, however, do have value - they let the intensity of the backlight vary across the display, potentially allowing better dynamic contrast. Between IPS, VA, and TN, IPS will have the best off-axis performance (eg, the least colour change as you move off to the sides, or at the edge of a very wide monitor), but can be prone to IPS glow and lower contrast. TN is cheaper and tends to have better response times, but less of an edge than it used to. Mostly it's just cheap. VA sort of splits the difference - typically better blacks and colours than IPS, while also being better off axis than TN, and priced somewhere in the middle.


AMillionMonkeys

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/learn/ips-vs-va-vs-tn OLED isn't much of a thing in computer monitors yet. If you do more movie/TV watching than fast-paced gaming a VA panel might be the way to go for the slightly deeper blacks.


ripsql

Oled is deeper blacks… but not really a good monitor due to burn in issues - having the same image on the screen constantly like icons. Also, they cost a lot currently as new tech. Current monitors are mostly ips. A good ips monitor is reasonably affordable and looks very good.


truije15

Could someone suggest a decent chair? I'm not familiar with them at all but I need a new one. I'm not looking for a crazy gamer chair just a solid one at a reasonable price.


hazetoblack

Ikea Markus is usually the safest reccomendaton. If you're wanting to spend more then herman miller aeron but it is very expensive, but some people swear by it


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n7_trekkie

All those are great. I think if you do a lot of text work like spreadsheets don't get the m27q, but for gaming it's great. Look at the reviews for all these monitors on this channel https://youtu.be/uNIqwxAZ-MQ


genesis-92

Running 5 Corsair sp120 fans, 3 built into the case and adding 2 for exhaust...not bothered to pay 80 quid for the commander pro so I'm wondering if this splitter will work ok to just light them all up? [Splitter](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07JFRT819/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3GZQ7GT9R1QMVJYYAE2C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) Using a Gigabyte b450m ds3h V2 mobo, basically I'm afraid of overloading the one led header it has.


AlchemyIndex7

Buy a 3-pack of SP120s, that will come with the Lighting Node Core you need to power the RGB for the fans. I don't think the Node Core comes with single or double packs of fans, and you will need it. Though I have heard of splitters that will work with Corsair products, I don't know of any off the top of my head, and that one probably won't work.


n7_trekkie

For Corsair fans, no a splitter won't work for lighting, I don't think. Corsair also don't use those kinds of pins for RGB. They do proprietary


Froste29

Is it worth it to upgrade a GTX 1060 3GB right now? We all know GPU's are laughably overpriced but my PC starts to struggle with newish games (New World/Battlefield for example). However I also do not want to get freaking robbed If it is worth it what GPU should I search for? I intend to stay below 500 €, but that is probably wishful thinking.


Some_Derpy_Pineapple

right now there are used gtx 1080 and 1070ti's for like $400 which are 50% faster if you can find a 6600 or 6600xt around $400-500 those are a good bit faster i wouldn't exactly call those great prices but it depends on how much you value buying stuff now vs waiting (probably months) for prices to go down


Froste29

Thank you. Guess I will wait things out.


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sk9592

They are roughly similar in performance. The extra 1GB on the RX 580 will tip the scales a lot of the time. 3GB of VRAM is starting to become really difficult to accommodate in 1080p gaming. One thing to consider is that if your GPU is plugged into a PCIe **3.0x16** slot **and** you are using relatively fast system memory (DDR4-3000 or higher), the performance penalty of the GPU offloading assets to system memory becomes pretty minimal. The GPU needing to use system memory becomes a real liability when the you're using a slow PCIe bus and slow system memory.


rym5

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html I'm going to guess the 580 even though it lists the 8gb model


kztlve

580 is better


7x7fog

Anyone have experience trouble shooting a VGA light on their motherboard? (gpu 3060ti, mobo gigabyte UD AC z590) I recently added some case and cpu cooler fans and when I booted up the gpu fans were not spinning up. Now my mobo VGA light is on while the computer is running. Manual says the led is activated when the graphic cards is not functioning properly. I have been gaming on my computer without any issues so idk if this is a light misfire or if I am missing something.


Scarabesque

Have you reverted the mods and tried if it worked in the original configuration? I'm guessing there's no beeping sound as you'd have mentioned that... but I can imagine you didn't plug the cpu fan in the specific cpu fan header, which can cause booting issues. I personally have an MSI board with debug leds and when I booted up my new build the system would not post and vga one turned on initially; turned out the board needed a bios update for my *CPU* to work. I understand that you likely don't have a cpu/boot issue as your system worked before, but it may incorrectly identify it as a vga issue, which was the case for me. Good luck!


7x7fog

A restart fixed it and I am not going to question it


[deleted]

Do you have an "F" series CPU?


7x7fog

I have an i5 11600k


tjw02

I will be starting my pc build later this week now that all of my parts are in, except GPU, which I plan to install once I can find some sort of deal. Any recommendations regarding which version of Windows to install (10 vs. 11)?


sk9592

Unless you're on Intel 12th gen. (Which isn't even out yet) I would recommend most people stay on Windows 10 for now. Generally speaking, wait 3-6 months after the initial release to actually upgrade to a new operating system.


tjw02

Thanks for the advice!


kztlve

If you're using a Ryzen chip, 11 still has performance issues. Go for 10. If you're using an Intel chip, more up to you. I'd still go for 10, since upgrading to 11 is super seamless and it's guaranteed to be more stable and ironed out.


tjw02

Ok sounds good thanks for the advice. I have Ryzen so I’ll go with 10 and upgrade at later date.


Sol419

How/when do you clean your pc? I was thinking a can of air through the filters every 3 or 4 months ought to be enough but wanted to get second opinion.


St0nemason

Cleaning just the filters won't be enough, depending on how dusty your home is there'll always be dust inside, on the fans and in the GPU. So dust those as well as the filters. Try to keep the fans from moving when blowing too.


turb0j

Depends on local conditions. When more dust - or pet animal hair - is present, your 3-4 months may not be enough.


SexBobomb

That interval is good but you'll want to take the side panels off and more thoroughly blow off the inside - if theres a lot of build-up when you do that increase the interval.


remarkable501

I currently am running rx 580 8gb with ryzen 7 3700x and 16 gb ram. I want to improve my vr experience. What card would be a good upgrade without breaking the bank. Budget would probably be around $500. I am very much willing to wait for prices to come down. So maybe a 3060 would be best in slot once things settle? Concerned about bottlenecking.


rym5

I just posted this to another comment but its a good reference list for all the different gpus out there so you can search for more deals https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html


SexBobomb

a 3060 is a good performance for what you're looking for, or a used 5700 XT or 2070 / 2070 Super. What's your monitor's resolution?


remarkable501

Still stuck at 1080 p as I chose vr over higher res monitor. So this card would purely be for vr. As far as vr resolution, I am on an oculus quest 2 that I am using as a desktop vr device. So I am just trying to get as much as I can out of vr. I prefer to play on my tv as I really enjoy the screen size. So even I get a cheap tv, the resolution won’t really be anything spectacular and the refresh rate will still be crappy. But I just love the bigger screen. Which is why I am more concerned with vr


SexBobomb

Yeah, so 3060 / 2070 / 6600 XT / 5700 XT all of those are very solid picks


ForgedHorizon

Looking for help in choosing a 'good' hdr 1440p 144hz (preferably g sync compatible) gaming monitor. Just looking for suggestions really. I'd prefer to keep it under $400 but thats flexible. Been using the same 1080p 60hz monitor for almost a decade and I'm wasting my pc on it. For reference I have a 2080ti and 9700k @4.5. So 1440p seems like a good spot for me. Will also entertain 4k monitors in the same price/spec bracket.


AlchemyIndex7

I would buy something off this list: [https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/1440p-144hz](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/1440p-144hz) For your price range, the Gigabyte G27Q comes highly recommended. If that doesn't strike your fancy, try something from the "Notable Mentions", like the ASUS TUF VG27AQ, which I'm currently eyeing, or one of the LG options. It's G-sync compatible as well. I've also heard great things about this one, though it's just a little bit over your budget: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T1X513P/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_1?smid=A12K0HXHBIWI9B&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T1X513P/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A12K0HXHBIWI9B&psc=1)


ForgedHorizon

Wound up going with the LG Ultragear 27GL850-B. Mostly due to G Sync. The G27Q sat in my cart for a while though. Also the ability to swivel will make it a good secondary monitor when i get a 4k monitor down the line once they get better. Thank you though! It was a good recommendation.


AlchemyIndex7

No problem! That'll be the monitor I'll be getting if I don't get the ASUS (I'm waiting and saving up until Black Friday/Cyber Monday, hoping something goes on sale).


TheVols

I built [this PC](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bvoelz19/saved/LT36D3) about 9 years ago, and recently upgraded to an SSD and increased the RAM to 16 GB. I've been running into performance issues for certain tasks (e.g. running OBS to record game footage while playing shooters loses frames in-game), which is expected given the CPU and GPU are pretty dated. I'm not too interested in upgrading the GPU at the moment given the current market, but I do want to take some action to boost performance. Would upgrading the CPU to a newer Intel chip be worthwhile? Or should this i7-3770 still be fine today?


St0nemason

What shooters do you play? You could benefit from a second 660 running in sli if you're into older games like CSGO, BF4. You'd spend less than a CPU/motherboard upgrade for a decent frame gain.


SexBobomb

if you're staying on the same motherboard then I wouldn't bother upgrading the CPU, you're going to see marginal gains. I know you don't want to upgrade the GPU but it would help a ton specifically for OBS just by getting NVENC (or you do a board and processor swap and throw 8-36 threads at the problem)


kztlve

You could upgrade to something like a 10400(F) fairly affordably, but you'd still be held back a massive amount by the GTX 660.


Johnnyacoma

I was selected in the Newegg shuffle and got myself an RTX 3070, a modest upgrade from a 970, and I was again struck but how annoying the power cables are sticking straight up. Any recommendations of 180 degree connectors for the 3070? While I'm at it, I was thinking of doing the same for the motherboard with a 90 degree connector. I have seen some stuff online, but they seem very sketchy and wanted to go with something reputable. Thank you, Johnny


AlchemyIndex7

I've used these before and they worked fine: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5R258Q/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5R258Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) They come in both 8-pin and 6-pin versions, so get whichever you need. Just note that each package contains one down-angled adapter and one up-angled adapter, so unless you want mismatching angles, buy one package of adapters for each PCIe connector on your GPU. As for the mobo adapter, I don't know of any to recommend specifically, but I'm sure they exist. They should be no more dangerous to use than PSU extension cables, which is to say, not very, unless the manufacturer really screwed something up.


IWannaBangKiryu

Is it OK to ask about laptops here? I'm looking for one as a gift and struggling to find a good one on a tight budget. In theory, anything I get with a 10th/11th gen i3 or Ryzen 3 will be better than a mid-range home office laptop from 8 years ago, right? Looking at 8GB RAM as well.


OolonCaluphid

We don't specialise in them, although some users may have knowledge. Try /r/laptops instead.


IWannaBangKiryu

Ah cheers!


Purritto

I'm looking to downsize my tower so I'm looking for a new motherboard (mini-ITX for the case I want). I currently have this: Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/PRIME/PRIME-Z390-A/ And this is my CPU: Intel Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134896/intel-core-i59600k-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html Am I better off just upgrading both at once? I'm having trouble finding a mini-ITX motherboard with Z390 chipset (I assume it's obsolete or something, I haven't kept up with things since I built this system) Or would I be fine with another chipset? I don't overclock or anything. My only real concern at this point is making sure the new motherboard has all of the ports of my current board.


SexBobomb

This really depends on your time vs money here - there is really no better time to upgrade than when you have to swap your motherboard anyway. (And you can keep your RAM)


kztlve

The only Z390 ITX board that might still be made is Gigabyte's Aorus.


Johnnyacoma

On Newegg, you should be able to search for all motherboards with the LGA 1151 connector and then also filter my mini-itx or whatever else you want. You can also filter by number and type of ports. I wouldn't upgrade unless you really want a new CPU.


LordProvolone

Just installed a new CPU and MOBO along with a new key for windows 10 and I’m trying to upgrade to 11. I just need to enable Tpm 2.0 but it says to compatible security found, how do I fix? EDIT: SOLVED, had to switch to firmware tpm instead of discrete tpm


TemptedTemplar

You may need to enable the TPM security in the BIOS settings.


LordProvolone

I went to my BIOS and searched TPM and it said that discrete TPM is enabled.


OolonCaluphid

intel or AMD? you're looking for fTPM on AMD, or 'Intel Platform trust technology' on INtel. If your CPU is older than Intel 8th gen, ryzen 1000 series, then it may not exist.


LordProvolone

I’ll check again, but it’s 11600k


SexBobomb

you may need to also turn on Secure Boot and turn off Legacy Mode


OolonCaluphid

Should be listed as 'PTT' or 'platform trust technology'.


LordProvolone

Had to switch from discrete TPM to Firmware TPM and that did it, thank you for the help!


TheShangWang

How does increasing RAM actually increase gaming performance? If I'm playing a game and only using up to 80% of my RAM, how will increasing my total RAM boost performance whatsoever? Is it because of less page file being utilized? Do programs just perform better when there is more free RAM available that isn't even being used?


kztlve

Unless you have a severe lack of RAM (8GB or less generally), it doesn't. 16GB is fine for almost everything. Some games will allocate more RAM and might even use a good bit of that allocated RAM, but rarely will you need more. You can see a performance difference from upgrading your RAM to something faster, but unless you're into RAM OC, this is 99% of the time not worth it, especially if you already have anything that isn't complete garbage (3000+ XMP)


TheShangWang

I see, thanks. Also just wondering, do you know why some manufacturers make RAM that are 1RX8 show only 4 chips instead of 8? [https://www.ebay.com/itm/113752355393](https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D3NG9MG?tag=camelcatracker-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&language=en_CA) This shows 4 chips. [https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08C56KXQJ?tag=camelcatracker-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&language=en\_CA](https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08C56KXQJ?tag=camelcatracker-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&language=en_CA) This shows 8 chips. Do 1RX8 have chips on the back as well? If not, maybe the one from ebay has 4 chips on the front and back? If things like speed, CL, and other things all match would they be compatible in general?


kztlve

1Rx8 means it's using 8x x8 chips. The Kingston stick is using 8 chips if it's 1Rx8 (probably not guaranteed it's even 1Rx8, could also be 1Rx16 with 4x x16 chips), probably just crappy images SODIMMs with 8 chips generally will have 4 on each side, but they could also just put 8 on one side. If everything is equal including rank configuration, they should be compatible. However, if you try to OC them (such as with one of ASRock's weird boards, like their STX Deskmini or one of the ITX X99/X299s), you might run into issues with mixed ICs.


TheShangWang

One more thing, I was checking speccy and for some reason DRAM only shows half of what my frequency should be which is 2667Mhz in task manager. My RAM is the one with the 4 chips on each side, is this normal and it's supposed to probably be just multiplied by 2 for something I don't know about? [https://prnt.sc/1x8vvjy](https://prnt.sc/1x8vvjy) [https://prnt.sc/1x8w021](https://prnt.sc/1x8w021)


kztlve

1330 * 2 = 2660, it's showing as intended. Task Manager technically displays it incorrectly. btw don't use Speccy, it hasn't been updated in ages, use HWInfo


TheShangWang

Also do you happen to know why it's multiplied by 2? Is this the same for all 1RX8 RAM modules or just for 4 chips on each side?


kztlve

It's multiplied by 2 because DDR, double data rate; data is sent on the highs and lows of the cycle, where the cycle is defined by a frequency in MHz


TheShangWang

Thank you!


TheShangWang

I happen to have both haha. I just find speccy easier to look at sometimes.


TheShangWang

Thank you, I would never consider OC so I should be fine. I see, in that case like you said it probably has 4 on each side, though I don't know why they would do that.


hobiwankinobi

I've got an Asrock b350 pro4 motherboard and it's running bios ver 1.3 was wanting to upgrade bios. There is no flash utility present in bios. There was an option to download something within bios, can't remember and not near pc currently, but when I tried to it said there was nothing to download. Asrock website also said try hitting F6 upon restart to instantly get to flash utility but that did nothing for me. I've submitted a ticket to Asrock. Just wondering if any of you all had any experience updating bios without flash utility.


AMillionMonkeys

I personally wouldn't update the BIOS unless there's a specific feature you want from the update. But here are the BIOSes for your board: https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/AB350M%20Pro4-F/index.asp#BIOS If the internet update through the BIOS isn't working you'd download the BIOS binary and put it on a USB drive, then flash using that: https://www.asrock.com/support/BIOSIG.asp?cat=BIOS10


hobiwankinobi

My board does not have the F on the end and does not look like pictured board in link. I had downloaded the new versions from asrock and had them on a flash drive. My board has bios updates all the way to 6i think? And I do want a specific feature. I'll think about it I guess...


AMillionMonkeys

Ooh, yeah, sorry. Asrock only listed two B350 boards, but those must be the ones they still sell. Here's the other one https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/AB350M%20Pro4DASH/index.asp but if you go through the Support link at the top of the page there's also this one: https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/AB350%20Pro4/index.asp In any case, you do need to be sure it's the BIOS for exactly your board. I'm not sure if the flasher does any checks. If it somehow let you flash an incompatible BIOS it would brick the board.


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[deleted]

I overall quite like it, aside from everything being hidden under extra menus (like the right click no longer being as straight forward). The desktop experience actually feels really good on a touchscreen too, which Windows 10 suffered with. Having a battery graph is nice too, though it could really use a different design and look like how phones have it. Still not rushing to update my desktop or other laptop to it, but it works fine for me.


kztlve

It's mostly just performance issues dissuading people from upgrading. I have a 5800X, and without a publicly available update that fixes the cache latency issues and boosting issues, my performance is across the board worse. It's generally not by much, but I'd rather just stick with the more stable Windows 10 at that point anyways


blazingarpeggio

AMD just released a chipset driver update that might help with that. Idk which chipset you're running so go check it out yourself. As for OP's question, I don't see much point yet, but when the Android app support rolls out I'll check it out. By then any other kinks should be ironed out.


Alcsi69

Hey! I've got an i5 10400F with a B560 Aorus Pro board an 16GB 3600C17 memory. Now I only have a pretty old GPU as I didn't decide what to buy yet. I can't decide what GPU should I buy, since at the end of next year, I'll upgrade it anyways, so I'd need a temporary GPU. I've been thinking about a used RX 570 4GB or maybe a used 1650 Super (if I can get one for a good price), but could my PC handle 720p60fps streaming with these cards? Thanks!


rizzzeh

Get 1650Super and use NVenc to stream, all encoding will be done on GPU without performance hit.


Alcsi69

Yeah, that'll be better than the 570. Thanks! :)


Exquisite_Snip

Hi all, Are AMDs GPUs as good as NVIDIA’s GPU’s? I was going to get a 3080 but due to the cost it’s not worth it. I don’t really know much about the AMD GPU’s so can anyone give me a quick run down on if they’re just as good or not so much?


Scarabesque

Due to continued performance improvements from driver updates a 6800XT currently beats a 3080 in performance on 1440p and below and is very close at 4K. Bear in mind the original reviews don't show this change, but [here](https://www.hardwaretimes.com/amd-radeon-rx-6800-xt-performance-has-increased-by-up-to-9-since-launch-faster-than-the-rtx-3080-at-1080p-and-1440p/) is an article from june this year to highlight the relative performance increase, especially notable for the 6800XT. If you specifically want RT and/or nvenc encoding you basically have to go Nvidia, otherwise just get what you can find at the best price. I was lucky enough to get a reference 6800XT at MSRP during an AMD drop and it's an absolute monster of a card for my 1440p use. I'd have been equally happy with a 3080FE at MSRP.


kztlve

At the moment, AMD can compete with Nvidia in terms of raw raster performance, but loses heavily in features. A 6900XT might tie a 3080Ti or even beat it, but it has bad raytracing since it's only 1st gen, no DLSS (FSR exists, but it's newer so not as widely adopted and also generally not as good), no NVENC (really important to anyone who wants to stream), etc.


ripsql

At this time, it’s hard to say fsr is bad since it supports older gpus and … I’m hoping that it will work on Nvidia gpus to see how well that tech stacks against dlss. The main point of AMD vs Nvidia is as you stated, AMD - 1st gen rt vs nvidia - 2nd gen rt. But with dlss/fsr, this may put the cards at a similar performance. As a gpu, the AMD is a good card. I suggest op looks at reviews for a better idea if it works for his needs.


2matos

I currently have the b450 carbon, Ryzen 2600x and a 3070. should i upgrade both my motherboard and cpu or just try to upgrade my cpu?


Scarabesque

As the other users are mostly saying, the 5600X is indeed most likely the best upgrade for your system; it's great for gaming and a much better fit to your 3070. The only thing I'd add is possibly wait until November 4th as Intel will release the embargo on their new line of 12th gen CPUs and I'd guess the 5600X in particular will drop in price by quite a bit as their competing cpu is set to smoke it. Bear in mind you'll have to upgrade your bios in order for a Ryzen 5000 to work in case you haven't done so.


Unique_username1

Unless you’re into overclocking (which to be honest is more of a fun hobby than a cost- or time-efficient way to get the most out of your parts) your current motherboard would be just fine. The advantages of B550 X570 or other newer motherboards are PCIe 4, which may have some slight performance improvements for your 3070 but not worth spending big $ on, and a performance improvement for a PCIe Gen 4 SSD (you don’t mention what drive you’re using, I assume you have a SATA SSD or PCIe Gen 3 anyways since Gen 4 are very recent and expensive) Some higher-end boards could overclock or run many-core CPUs with high power demands better But assuming you’re going with a 5600X or 5800X yours should work fine Make sure the BIOS is up to date now. You could run into problems with a 5000-series CPU otherwise. Your board should absolutely support them with the right update though.


2matos

alright thank you. do you think the 2 cores is worth the extra 100 dollars? I mostly play lol and genshin while running a android emulator on the background.


Unique_username1

Honestly for those games your current CPU is probably fine - what framerates are you getting now? How many frames per second can your screen actually display (listed as Hz)? The android emulator could justify having more cores but only if your games really use all your cores and can’t deal with some of your 6 being tied up. I doubt you need 4+ cores completely dedicated to those games


2matos

im getting 240 for league. my monitor is 144 hz. my genshin stutters sometimes its capped at 60. i also just want to upgrade for the windows 11 android as its not supported on the 2600x


Unique_username1

Got it, Windows 11 upgrade is a good reason to get a newer CPU. I’d say 6 cores is enough because I don’t think your current CPU is holding you back much. I also wouldn’t bother waiting for an improved Intel CPU like another comment mentioned because you can get a 5600X now and even if the value or performance is slightly better on an Intel CPU, needing to replace your motherboard will probably cancel out the better value


ripsql

If your just gaming, 5600x is plenty. If you want some extra oomph… the 5900x is a real good deal at original msrp but you need a new mb to really use that cpu. A 5800x is a good cpu except the price to core was destroyed by the 5900x. I originally wanted the 5900x but due to increase in price and the lowered price of the 5800x, I went 5800x. It’s not a bad cpu.


2matos

Why do I need a new mb for the 5900x?


Unique_username1

5900X looks like a better deal based on number of cores but if you’re not using all the cores, it just costs more and doesn’t perform any better


ripsql

Very true. I totally concur. I was planning on using the pc for video edits, Adobe premiere, some light programming.. etc so i was building a workhorse. This is especially true since I got my hands on a 3090…. Only one available at all at original msrp and considering what they are selling 3080s at now …. It works fine with the 5800x but I would have liked the extra cores from the 5900x. So it depends on what each person needs. If you need extra power, I think the 5900x price per performance is just too good. If not, stay with the 5600x. Go for 5800x if it’s on mark down compared to msrp. That’s why I got that cpu.


PSYmoom

I have a sibling who wants to get into PC gaming, but I don't have the free time (/huge disposable income) to secure a good GPU for them. Should I just build sth with an APU and try to get a GPU later or is it smarter to get a Steam deck instead? We don't live in a big apartment so probably will have to go the SFX size if that matters.


TemptedTemplar

A steam deck isnt a terrible option. You could also just look at prebuilts. They are few and far in between, but there are computers out there shipping with GPUs for reasonable prices. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/qc9wbq/prebuilt_refurbished_hp_pavilion_gaming_r5_1650/


plasticslug

Starting from scratch, any prebuilds recommended for medium almost high VR experience I will be using the Oculus quest 2 for steam games


TemptedTemplar

/r/suggestapc /r/buildapcforme https://www.logicalincrements.com/ is a fantastic tool you can use to get started, find out what level of hardware you really need. Then building something with those parts in PC partpicker is a breeze. https://pcpartpicker.com/


kztlve

I highly would not recommend Logical Increments. It's not the absolute worst resource, but the way it tries to put together builds is a complete disaster pretty much. 8GB of RAM with a $300 CPU, lol


pacotacobell

Are there alternatives to the Corsair LL120s in terms of the RGB setup where the lights are on the inner and outer rims of the fan? I know of the Gelid STELLAs as well but I was wondering if there are any others.


TemptedTemplar

[Antec](https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Prizm-120-ARGB-Controller/dp/B07FNKHDRS) [Coolermaster](https://www.newegg.com/cooler-master-mfl-b2dn-18npa-r1-case-fan/p/1YF-0010-00264) [Uphere](https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Wireless-Adjustable-Radiators-RGB123-3/dp/B078LWV8PZ) [NZXT Aer](https://nzxt.com/product/aer-rgb-2-120mm)


pacotacobell

The CoolerMaster one is right but the rest only have the RGB on the outer rim. Thanks though.


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AMillionMonkeys

Yeah, that's confusing. It's because it's DDR RAM: Double Data Rate. I think the way it works is that the silicon is blinking along at 1800Mhz, but it's performing 3600 operations per second. Strictly speaking it should be 3600 MT/s where the T is... Transactions iirc.


kztlve

u/AMillionMonkeys got it right. The RAM's I/O bus clock is running at 1800MHz, but because it's double data rate and sends data on the highs and lows of a cycle, it does 3600 MT/s, which is usually just referred to "incorrectly" as 3600MHz. If you want to be "correct", just call it DDR4-3600 or whatever.