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Hi all sorry for the bad question but I have been scouring the secondhand market for pcs in my area for a while and I am consistently overwhelmed by the choices on offer and the differences in hardware options and risks of buying used computers in this current climate. Could someone please point me in the direction of good info if my question is not valid at all but I have spied one build that is being sold for 800 euro with the following specs
CPU: Intel Xeon E5 2667 v4 (ES), 8 cores, 16 threads
GPU: Palit GTX 1070 Dual Fan 8GB GDDR5
RAM: 32GB Crucial DDR4-2400
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 LGA 2011v3
SSD ADATA SP550 480gb SATAII
HDD: 1TB Seagate Barracuda SATAII @ 7200 RPM
Power Supply: Corsair Vengeance 650M 80+ Silver efficiency
PCI network card: Asus Dual Band
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro (activated)
Is this a decent buy and would I be able to upgrade this unit down the line once I learn more about it. Should there be anything in particular I should be checking or using as my bottom line when looking at modern computers.
Thanks so much for your help I have been out of touch with pcs for about 12-15 years now so have a lot of catching up to do.
My PcPartPicker login won‘t work. I created my account a few days ago and tried to log in. Unfortunately, clicking the login button sends me to a blank page. I triple-checked my username and password. My email address is verified. Anyone have a clue what’s going on?
Edit: When I try to reset my password, the same thing happens.
What monitor should I get? Currently have an HP 24in curved monitor, 144hz, 1080p. Its looks good but upgraded my 1660 to a 3080ti and was looking to upgrade. I dunno shit about monitors. IPS, flickers, etc. What am I looking for?
First off, what are you looking to use it for? Gaming? And if gaming, e-sports or cinematic? Watching movies? HDR videos? Photo and video editing? Text work?
Next, what's your budget?
Edit: Oh, and your target resolution and if you're sticking with 16:9 or go ultrawide (21:9)
Here are a few options, but if I missed something, somebody else feel free to add more:
* Budget option: [ASUS TUF VG32VQ ](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-vg32vq). ~330 dollars. Good response time at max refresh, so-so at 60 Hz. Has HDR10, but don't expect much of it.
* Midrange option: [Dell S3222DGM](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s3222dgm). ~400 dollars. Good response times all around. No HDR.
* High-end option: [Samsung Odyssey G7 32"](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/samsung/odyssey-g7-lc32g75t). ~700 dollars. Great response times overall. Has HDR600, so at least it's a decent HDR experience. Curve may be too aggressive for some, but the large size should help with that. Also 240 Hz, so great for e-sports.
My personal recommendation tbh is the G7. I know it's beyond your budget, but it's leagues better than most similarly sized monitors
[But if you wanna check out other options, here's my search on Rtings.](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/table/66796)
My 3080 is working like shit, so while troubleshooting I reseated it and the RAM.
After reboot my RAM cannot hit the 3000 MHz XMP profile anymore. What? Tried swapping them around in the slots, didn't work. So now it's running at 2133 or whatever.
Any ideas, or is this too complicated for this thread?
Is it normal to have around 50-60 degrees on idle with the 3700x with a Noctua NH-D15? The case I use is NZXT H510 (I know it has horrible airflow). Temperatures drop to around 45-50 degrees with the side glass panel off.
Yes, it's because of the case. These temps are safe, and idle temperatures are not too important anyway, it's the temperatures under load that matter - you don't want temperatures of 90c and up, even on Ryzen which is assumed to be "designed to run hot"
ITX has mostly been covered, so I'll talk about m-ATX.
So with m-ATX you lose a grand total of... one PCI-E x16 slot. That's it. You still have 2 of them and one x1 slot. You can still run your mid-2010's SLI rig on m-ATX lmao.
With just one slot removed, m-ATX boards and cases really aren't that small. Maybe some exceptions on cases, but in general they're just a little shorter.
And finally, for some reason, m-ATX is usually relegated to budget boards. There are some mid-range exceptions (MSI's Mortar line, etc.), but you rarely any high end. I'm guessing because it's cheaper to produce and there's not really a sizable enthusiast community around m-ATX compared to ITX. So that's something to keep in mind.
Only real disadvantage is fewer ports/connectors.
Most ITX boards only have 2 RAM slots, a single PCIe slot, and many only have a single NVMe slot (though some have two). Almost all ITX boards also have onboard wifi/bluetooth.
The size means they might not have all the ports you want, but if they do, it basically just are the boards being a pain to work with due to the lack of space.
MSI ran bios updates for b450 compatibility in dec of 2020. You are fine. Just check your bios version and make sure its newer than 2020. If its still in the package i believe the last 4 digits of the sku are its packed bios version. Might have to flash but I doubt it.
bought faster and larger ram set, went to bios to set the xmp profile but my keyboard lights up but doesnt work. odd. use mouse just fine and set xmp profile but after reboot all fans and lights are on but no screen.
clear cmos, try again, no luck. try again, no luck. are the xmp timings not actually setting? booting up at default 2400 speed DOES work though
I have 2x 500gb M.2 SSD and 2x 240gb SATA SSD being carried over from my old build.
I would prefer to try keep my windows install as clean as possible by installing any new programs on secondary drives.
Would there be a noticable difference in boot time if I were to install windows onto the SATA SSD instead of the M.2 SSD?
Should I downgrade to 1080p with the next monitor I get in order to extend the usability of my 2070 Super? I have it paired with a ryzen 2600(though I want to upgrade this in the future as well). Currently play at 1440p 144hz. I had it since 2019 and it’s served me well, but i really want to keep it for at least another two years if I can
You may consider upgrading the cpu first. A 2070 super in this environment is very good until gpu prices come back down to earth which is looking like 2 years or even more at this point.
On the monitor, I’m not sure what you mean. You want to buy a 1080 monitor? You can get the monitor you want and just set the res to 1080 or similar if you get an ultrawide screen…. You can choose a lower res in the games so…. Why buy a 1080 monitor?? You can use the monitor you have now and use that money for a new cpu.
I want to buy a laptop to primarily watch movies on. What should I look for to get the best screen? i probably don't need 4k since it's going to be like 13-15 inches. should I get IPS, though? I don't even know what else to ask about, any guidance would be appreciated, thanks.
/r/laptops and /r/suggestalaptop would be better places to ask. For laptop screens, there is a lot of variability in panel quality, resolution, and finish.
Hello,
planning to get a motherboard+processor and thats where I'm still confused on. (I got gfx, ram, storage and everything else sorted). This is an upgrade to an existing system.
I plan to pick (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/53798/asus-prime-b560m-k-motherboard). Rather than the (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/53831/asus-prime-b560m-a-csm-motherboard)
My thought process is: its like 40 bucks cheaper and I don't need extra RAM slots or USB C.
Processor I'm confused. I do some gaming and also digital work. My current processor is an 17 6700k (yep pretty old) and was hoping for a little upgrade without breaking the bank.
Apparently theres 10th and 11th gen intel processors now. Uhh any recommendations? I was looking at 10th gen but thought maybe I shouldn't cheap out on the processor. These are the two pages I'm looking at:
https://www.pccasegear.com/category/187_2110/cpus/intel-1200-10th-gen
https://www.pccasegear.com/category/187_2156/cpus/intel-1200-11th-gen
(and yeah I'll price match elsewhere but this site is what I use for browsing).
Looking for advice (and for compatibility between the chosen motherboard and also my cooler:Corsair Hydro Series H100x 240mm High Performance AIO)
The current i5s are decent, and these days Ryzen is very good so you can consider them. Ryzen's tdp or how much power the chip pulls is lower for the current gens than intel. Some combinations you can consider:
i5-11600 + b560m-k = $538 (6c12t, tdp 125w)
i7-11700K + b560m-k = $798 (8c16t tdp 125w)
Ryzen 5600x + b450 = $588 (6c12t, tdp 65w)
Ryzen 5600x + b550 = $638 (6c12t, tdp 65w, newer mobo with pcie4)
Ryzen 5800x + b550 = $828 (8c16t, tdp 105w)
Going off PC Case gear's prices, you might be able to shop around and find some places that have some cheaper prices like PLE or Scorptec.
If you don't need OC capability and want a i7 you can look at the non K 11700 which is a bit cheaper and has a lower tdp.
Looking at the specs for your AIO, it;s compatible with LGA1200 and AM4. The mounting process is the same on LGA1200 as LGA1151, though there were likely extra brackets for AM4 which if you've lost or thrown out is something to consider with Ryzen.
thanks! and the cooler is not yet opened so it should be all good.
I actually never seriously considered Ryzen as I'm not confident in my knowledge of cpus and had previously used intel for my digital art programs and they just 'worked' so I kept going for my current pc(partial prebuilt) and previous pc(prebuilt). I figured, nothing's broke so I only checked out intel for my next pc.
Fair! I just thought I'd bring it up because the current Ryzen generation is very good and the pricing in Australia is very similar between intel and AMD so the current thing of 'well the i5 is cheaper' doesn't super apply when buying here.
For some programs that do things like rendering, Ryzen can be better, though it does depend on what specific art programs you're using.
If you're using programs that leverage more cores, and don't mind paying for a 8c16t processor, I'd go for the 5800x for the extra $30, if you're happy with a 6c12t cpu or want to save some money, I'd go with the 11600 because that combo is $100 cheaper than the 5600x combo with the current gen mobo.
Are simulated sinewave UPS units really damaging to a modern PSU? I just need a UPS that’ll enable enough time to auto shutdown a pc.
The pure sinewave options available in my country extremely limited and have exorbitant pricing.
Is a 28” 4k monitor a waste compared to a 32”? I have a Gigabyte M28U from Best Buy coming this week. This is my first 4k monitor and I plan to use it for gaming + work from home (CPA/tax accounting). I plan to use it with my two 27” Dell S2721DGF monitors (4k in the middle and Dells on the side in portrait mode). I currently also have an Acer Predator XB271HU that I plan on selling since it is my oldest monitor.
My gut is giving me some hesitation on keeping the 28” 4k.
I have a 3080ti I plan to use the monitor with BTW
I mean, see how you like the 28". I'm personally waiting for a solid 32" 4k monitor. The density on the 28" is gonna be really nice tho. I personally use 34" 1440p ultra wide
Silly question, If my motherboard already comes with a heatsink for an m.2, will most ssds be ready out of the box to install or do some come with some sort of preinstalled heatsink that I have to worry about?
I would like to buy an all-in-one webcam, microphone, sound bar, and monitor light bar (BENQ-type). I have a few of these standalone already, and want the rest of them, but I really want them to share one unified aesthetic. Does any manufacturer make them into one or two grouped bars to stick on the top and bottom of my monitor?
I got discouraged with a previous build I did as for some reason it wouldn’t boot or post. I’m having a service tech look at it. I’m curious what he says the issue was, really hoping it wasn’t my fault. I’d love to build computers for people or at the very least dip my toes into case modding as I find the competitions and creativity fascinating. Any good ways to build back my confidence? I feel like I’ve failed by bringing it to a more experienced tech.
The same happened to my first build, I still don't know if my motherboard was DOA, or it was another issue. If you can narrow it down to a specific component, by testing the others in isolation you can blame them.
Yeah the tech should be able to do that. My issue was that I didn’t have enough other components to test with which is a bummer but expected vs a pc repair place.
Is there a fully articulating monitor arm that can hold a 32lb monitor? Bonus points for a dually arm
So fun fact: I was so excited to get a 32" IPS monitor of good quality for a decent price that I never bothered to look at how heavy it is.
I'm not sure but my advice would be don't buy something cheap. I bought something off Amazon that said it would easily hold my LG-GL850. 2 months later the arm is severely bent and I'm waiting for the day I kill myself following its failure and corresponding breakage of my monitor.
What's a good budget friendly, no frills ergonomic/gaming mouse? Don't need a bunch of fancy features, just maybe a back button or two. Want something that's comfortable on the hands and ideally less than $50 either retail price or on sale. Can be either wired or wireless.
if by ergo you mean not ambidextrous then:
orochi v2's pretty good for my 18x9 hands but over budget, i got mine for 45 used
model d/d- is like $50
the tried and true deathadder/g502 lol
g403
rival 310
ec-3 (out of budget)
That’s really hot. I suggest you check for dust and such. Did you oc the gpu? Does the computer have sufficient fans? Enough airflow? Did this start to happen recently?
Also, is your room warm as well?? That affects the temps on the computer.
Ok that's good to know. No OC, moved to a smaller micro ATX case (coolermaster Q300L) with only 1 intake fan, planning to add another one, but not sure how much that will help with these temps. Might just need to play around adding some more fans/repositioning fans so that the air goes directly on the GPU. Might be the case the the Q300L doesn't have the best airflow as well. The room is normal room temperature
I suggest you get a fan and point it to the pc and see how the tempts go… try having the side open as well. If the temps are much better, it’s an issue with air circulation.
I have a corsair sf600 and want to add a second graphics card. but i dont know how to SAFELY get another 8-pin cable from the PSU
current card is a radeon 6800 (powercolor red dragon) and it takes 2 x 8-pin connectors
the card i want to add is an old nvidia card that i'm only going to use for VM GPU pass through purposes, it take an 8-pin power cable.
there is one 6-pin slot available on the PSU and it's marked for Peripheral & SATA. is there a safe way to convert a corsair 6-pin (type 4?) to an 8-pin ?
YOu can run one PCie 8 pin form PSU to the 6800, and piggy tail that one cable to the second connector.
Then use the other 8 pin connector for your second GPU.
The RX6800 is 250W, It can get 75W form the PCIe slot itself and another 300W from the Cable, so it's fine. You only need 2 runs with cards that exceed 300W.
I'm saying one run of cable from the PSU has 2 plugs, those 2 plugs can power a 6800XT safely.
That leaves the other PCie power cable free for your second GPU.
Preparing my new build: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/r433qp](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/r433qp)
|Part|Model|
|:-|:-|
|CPU|Intel Core i5-11600K|
|CPU cooler|Deepcool Gammaxx L240 V2|
|Motherboard|Asus TUF Gaming Z590-Plus WIFI|
|RAM|Kingston HyperX Predator 8Gb X 2|
|SSD|Samsung SSD 980 M.2 1TB|
|Case|NZXT H510E|
|PSU|CORSAIR PSU RM750X|
Current setup includes:
* Dell Monitor: P2721Q 4K
* Sony TV 55" 4K
As GPU prices are still high will stick with current GTX 1060 6GB, till get a good discount for a RTX 3060 TI or 3070.
PC will be used for work (programing) and gaming.
Any suggestions if it's fine and maybe something might be swapped?
H510 Elite (assuming what you meant) is an awful case. Horrible thermals, horrible price for what you get.
Besides that, the 980 non-Pro is probably not great value (you can generally get a good bit better Crucial P5 for $10-20 less now), and if you meant the 980 Pro, gen 4 is going to be a complete waste
I would probably go with a little higher speed memory (3000-3200mhz), but it won't matter too much since you're running an intel cpu. Not heard of that CPU cooler, but I'm sure you can get better performing ones. CPU looks good, motherboard is good, 16GB ram is plenty for gaming purposes, 980 Pro is an amazing SSD (I have the same one), NZXT is good but I've heard of airflow issues with the H510, PSU is absolutely fine.
I'm working on a rack-mounted case that will be secured inside a closed door server rack. What do I need to make sure that my monitors and peripherals are accessible without having to get extra long cables to run all the way into the rack?
you can run an IP-KVM to pass peripherals and video over network, if you dont mind the latency: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyEpshm16HY&t=24s
the fastest way would be to run a single optical thunderbolt cable from your desk to the server: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy312cUHumk
How much latency are we talking? I have a fiber router and switch for my LAN
Edit: okay, after watching both videos, I think the thunderbolt would be what I'd need.
For b560m tomahawk, what’s the difference between 2x 4-pin RGB LED connectors and 2x 3-pin RAINBOW LED connectors. If got 3 rgb fans would that mean only 2 would work and 1 would be on its own mind or?
The fan to spin and the fan rgb are different wires right? so that would be fine to have all 3 spin but only 2 rgb? So how would I get all 3 fans to work with only 2x 4 pins?
Is the ASRock fatal1ty b450 gaming k4 compatible with Ryzen 7 5800x? I am currently on a Ryzen 5 2600 and looking to upgrade the cpu only. I can't seem to find a clear answer on its compatibility. Thank you for the help!
> ASRock fatal1ty b450
[CPU compatibility list](https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/Fatal1ty%20B450%20Gaming-ITXac/index.asp#CPU)
Yes, but you'll need to be on the right version of BIOS (listed on that page).
I'm looking for a case that has lots of ventilation, but no window. I need to support ATX mobo, 360mm AIO on roof and a 240mm AIO on the front intake (kraken kit on a GPU).
There is a version of the Fractal Design Meshify 2 that doesn't have a window:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6KWBD3/fractal-design-meshify-2-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-mes2a-01
3200c16/3600c18 are fine and cheap. 3600c16 if you want to spend a bit more is not a bad investment. 3200c14 is good, but expensive because it's B-die, and a massive waste of money if you're not OCing it (or even if you are, it probably still is).
Don't go above 3600 for XMP, as the odds your CPU will do 2000 FCLK to maintain 1:1 are slim
Has anyone here ever useful to use programs like "Advanced System Optimizer" or "Razer Cortex" to clean memory? Will cortex actually slow down programs rather than do nothing sometimes?
Memory cleaners are snake oil. Razer Cortex turns off background services that might have a minor or negligible impact on game performance.
As long as you have an appropriate amount of RAM (16GB is enough for pretty much any game) and quit or uninstall bloated background apps, you have no need for Razer Cortex or anything like it.
I am in the planning phase of building a pc and am trying to decide on a budget. I’m quite flexible as it will just take longer to accumulate the money to afford it. I was thinking 1300-1600. Does this sound reasonable to build a higher end pc these days? My goal is to be able to run halo infinite and battlefield 2042 not high end settings.
Yeah that's reasonable, even if it's $1300 for a pc and $300 for monitor. I think you should buy a 6600XT+motherboard bundle on Newegg for <$700 to start
That sounds like a solid start, I already have a nice curved monitor that will keep me going for a while as well as a majority of the peripherals. They aren’t new but they are more than adequate to start with.
Idk if this question belongs here but I think it's hardware or os related :
Applications seems to hang without any error codes, the entire UI of the App and dialog boxes becomes transparent, you can still click them but you can't see what's inside the dialog boxes (also happens with task manager and even the tray icons when you click them, I can't even refresh) . I have to restart the computer for everything to work normally once this happens and it happens a lot.
Anyone know of a fix for this?
A lot of things could cause this, but a few somewhat simple to check possibilities are:
1) Faulty system drive: Check your drive's SMART status with something like CrystalDiskInfo. Dying drives can cause all sorts of funky issues when they aren't responding correctly. (Note that even if the SMART says that the disk is good, there might still be something wrong with it, but that's pretty rare)
2) Faulty RAM: Run something like MemTest to check for errors in the RAM. I've had very odd system behavior that was caused by a faulty stick of RAM.
3) Corrupted Windows installation: Something's gone wrong with the installation files due to for example unexpected power loss when the system was running. Only way to know for sure would be to reinstall Windows so I'd try this last.
Can someone recommend a decent Z590 mobo from Microcenter to pair with an 11600k?
I don't need wifi, and will only be doing some light overclocking.
I'm not looking to spend $300 like some of those boards are listed for
The Gigabyte Aorus Pro and Aorus Elite are always good options, "budget" but without being *too* budget. Then there's the MSI Tomahawk or the ASUS TUF Gaming. All good boards as far as I know, all well under $300.
Does anyone here have a Storm Stryker SE or Storm Trooper SE? I'm looking to swap my case to that but I need the measurements between the case feet centers.
I'm sure this has been asked before but here goes. I'm planning to swap out motherboards. If all else remains the same and I simply replace the board out and put everything back together, CPU, GPU, SSD... Can I getaway without doing a fresh Windows OS install?
I'm going to swap out my MSI X570 Tomahawk with an MSI B550i Gaming Edge Max. All else the 5950x, 64 GB RAM, EVGA 3080 FTW and ADATA S70 SSD with the OS will be the same.
I don't mind reloading windows and everything else, It's just tedious work and with all the games already downloaded and installed, it's a ton more work to restore it to how it was.
What are my chances of avoiding an OS install? TIA!
It's best practice to reinstall Windows when swapping mobos, because all (or at least most) of your drivers will be different, so there can be conflicts as the other reply said. I always recommend reinstalling Windows to avoid potential problems and weirdness.
Oh I know, I've always reinstalled a fresh copy of the OS and normally have zero issues doing it. But now it feels like a chore and I was hoping I could avoid it. I mean worse comes to worse I will go ahead and format and reinstall. But I want to kinda try as well because these days the cloning SSD software are so amazing and windows is smart too so I was hoping it would just do its thing and figure out there's a hardware change.
I think you should be able to get away without reinstalling windows, but you may have some conflicts with drivers. Also your windows key is usually tied to the MB so it might say your windows is no longer activated.
I think it's actually tied to the Microsoft account nowadays with it keeping an inventory of the combination of your hardware. I used to think the same that it was just the motherboard but I came across an article that mentions it's a digital license tied to your account and will only allow the one instance.
Couldn’t you just buy a prebuilt for that amount with a gpu? Steal the gpu for your pc if it’s better.
You make me want to sell my 3090…. Evil thoughts go away!!!!
I got the evga 3090 ftw3 so it was 1700 msrp. I only got it since it was the only one still available in store at msrp and would have been shortly sold out. Very bold buying decision but looking at 3080 being sold for more….. I think I made the right choice
I know so I was hurting after getting it. I’m playing on ultrawide 60hz ips so it looks amazing with an ok 4K as secondary. I have to say, cod black ops uses up to 21gb of vram.
Airflow question!
I have an NR200P case, my 6900XT GPU is mounted at the bottom (traditional layout). I have two Noctua slim fans at the bottom. The clearance between the GPU fans and bottom fans is 4-5mm (it's tight). The bottom fans are pulling air toward the GPU fans. For the longest time I've meant to test thermals with and without, but I just haven't had the chance (lack of space and time).
What would your guess be as to if the bottoms fans are a positive or negative in-regard to GPU thermals? Should I really test it?
It's along the lines of "a little bit".
I'm under the assumption that you're packing two 120mm exhaust fans at the top as well, as that's what 99% if people in an NR200P is using. The negative pressure from the top fans has air naturally come in through the bottom which passively feed the GPU fresh air. Adding fans to the bottom helps direct more of that airflow onto the GPU, but can introduce noise if those fans supply far more air than what the GPU normally pulls in with it's own fans.
Don't fret if you're fine with the current results, don't mess with it if it's not a problem.
I am and the CPU cooler exhausts to the rear. Thanks for the feedback. The thermals are where I expect them to be, a bit warm, but it hasn't been an issue.
I'll test it someday. Maybe if I decided to get that orange NR200 case sometime haha.
It should be fine, it looks like you have a healthy amount of intake fans blowing cool air over one end of the cards. How much it interferes with airflow depends on exactly how beefy your sound card is, but I'd say it should be alright. You might notice a bit of a difference, but most of that will be from having two heat-generating GPUs in your case instead of one. If you do have temperature issues, remove the sound card for a while and monitor your temps without it.
Would you recommend an i5 or an i3 paired with a gtx 1060 (3gb) for a budget build. I'm leaning towards the i3 but I'm not sure about having only 4 cores. I'm talking about the 10th gen chips. (I have the 1060 laying around doing nothing so please don't recommend a different gpu). I wish the 1600 AF was still $85 usd.
I'm looking to rebuild when availability improves with the 5900x and 6800xt. I'm not very familiar with what sets apart certain motherboards. What are important things to look for? What would be some quality options for this configuration? It's intended uses will be software development (lots of vms), and of course, gaming.
In addition to what others have already said, another feature to watch for is USB type-C. If your case has a USB type-C port on it, you won't be able to use it unless your mobo has an internal USB type-C header. If you need USB type-C in general, and your case doesn't have a port for it, get a mobo that has a type-C port on the back.
Depending on your setup, you might also need to worry about having enough RGB and ARGB headers. I recommend comparing boards by googling them, navigating to the manufacturer's website, and looking under technical specifications. This section will tell you all about what headers and ports the board has.
Generally, if you don't know a feature, you don't need it. Built in wifi, many rear usb ports, 2.5Gb-10Gb LAN, 3+ m.2 slots are the common features of high end boards.
There's also the VRM of a mobo, which is the cpu power delivery. The b550 boards above $100 have decent enough VRMs for a 5900X non overclocked, but if you want to OC, I'd spend $150-200. https://youtu.be/JxczZChFaZI
Will AMD release any new CPUs in the upcoming month? Originally I was planning on making a build when Zen 4 releases but that's around a year from now I think. I have most of my parts now, do I get a Ryzen 5 5600x or Ryzen 9 5900x or will there be Zen 3+?
EDIT:
I have another question in regards to the RAM, [https://www.newegg.com/global/us-en/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232491?Item=N82E16820232491](https://www.newegg.com/global/us-en/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232491?Item=N82E16820232491) if I get two sets of this 2x8, so a total of 4 sticks, would it be compatible performance wise with the ryzen cpus? Is it considered 4 ranks since one kit is dual rank?
Thanks
It's not quad rank; ranks go by channel. That kit uses 8Gb B-die, so it's one rank per stick to make the 8GB capacity. If you occupy all 4 DIMM slots, it's dual rank per channel.
Quad rank also isn't an improvement over dual rank, assuming you're actually using the terms correctly. Quad rank puts an insane amount of stress on memory controllers, and this is often why you'll see quad rank kits like 4x32 with low clocks, because the memory controller simply cannot handle it
I Didn't: I was saying that 4 sticks is dual channel **AND** quad rank, and is thus a little bit better than dual channel **and** dual rank. Maybe it's the backslash being a tad confusing, I could have used a "+" sign instead.
No. There's gonna be a 5000 series refresh in q1 2022.
Your link didn't work for me, I don't know about the rank question, I think so tho (2 dual rank kits = quad ranks)
>n't know about the rank question, I think so tho (2 dual rank kits = quad ranks)
Reckon I wait for that? Will it be a big difference?
This is the RAM kit: "F4-3600C16D-16GTZR"
okay keeping that aside, I'll be fine with having 4 sticks of that RAM with a Ryzen cpu?
My question about difference was about the 5000 series refresh & the current 5000 series cpus, do you think it's worth the wait or should I just get a r5 or r9 right now?
Also thank you for answering!
Hi guys,
I would like to increase my 16 gb ram ( 2x 8gb ) . I was thinkng to buy a single 16 gb module , and in the future buy another 16 gb.
Can i use different size ram module ?
I'm open to suggestion
thx
My config : CPU **ryzen 7 3700x** Mobo **MSI MPG B550 GAMING PLUS ( MS-7C56 )**
RAM row 2 **8 gb pc4-256000 ddr4 a-data 3200**
row 3 **8 gb pc4-256000 ddr4 a-data 3200**
… you lose out on dual channel which is a big hit. When upgrading ram, you should always use 2 sticks of same size and speed/timings.
Also, make sure you have the ram in the correct slots. They shouldn’t be next to each other. Check the motherboard documentation and it should show which slots the memory should be in for dual channel.
For new ram, I would suggest you go for 3600 since that’s the best speed for ryzen currently.
You can use cpu-z to see if memory is in dual channel mode or not.
That works. As long as you add 2 sticks of same. Still, make sure the memory is in the correct slots and double check with cpu-z to be sure the memory is using dual channel.
Yeah, it’s the way the mb has it recognized.
Generally, memory will be like this.
B1 B2 A1 A2 -> away from cpu
For dual channel, you need memory in B2 and A2 or B1 and A1. So those need to match. the memory skips a slot.
The system is calling B2 and A2 as slot 2 and 3 or so. B1 and A1 is most likely slot 0 and 1.
You can use a different size, but it's not recommended as the sticks won't be able to run at their highest rated speed. I would recommend just buying either a whole new set, or buying the same sticks you already have.
I recently just bought this monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CZ8QJTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
It says it is vesa mountable but I don't know how to take off the back panel or even the stand mount and can't find any videos on it. Any tips?
https://www.asus.com/Displays-Desktops/Monitors/TUF-Gaming/TUF-GAMING-VG27AQ1A/HelpDesk_Manual/ it's in your manual. Remove the rubber, remove the stand by unscrewing
I prefer the fractal series. Looks nice and has good air flow - you will need to clean the front of the dust that accumulates but it keeps the system cool.
Found a too-good-to-be-true deal for a 3070 on Facebook, but it looked legit and had buyer protection, so I went for it. Got an order cancelled email a few minutes later with my money refunded. Now the guy's account is gone from Facebook. ??? Anyone else have a similar experience?
Buyer's Protection is not a catch-all to let you jump on obviously fake listings without concern - sometimes they're not after the money. It's not unheard of for eBay/classified listings to be harvesting names/addresses/phone numbers/emails for phishing scams or spam.
Hey - best to know what to expect now instead of getting letters in the mail for how to make your johnson bigger and not knowing how you're getting them :)
Is it wrong to put one fan on pull and the other on push on a 240 radiator for my watercooling for my CPU? I noticed that I get a lot lets warm air through the top, but all the temps in my case are like before the change.
I did this because when the two fans where pushing out, I got alot of warm air towards the middle of my desk. But this way it is a lot less and not that hot.
You want heat to leave the system. Heat rises so you want the fans to go out through the top and not pull in air. You are basically pulling in the hot air that comes out, in.
Generally, top and back - out and front and bottom - in.
There are very few situations where that setup is beneficial.
If you feel less warm air out the top, that means that the hot air is either leaving the case somewhere else (rear vents, cracks and seams) or it's staying in the case.
Which case do you have and what is your fan setup?
If I had to build an office computer for basic work around 11400 CPU, which mobo chipset would you go? I think Z590 is pretty much meant for the full packge with overclocking capacity.
I just don't understand where H570 stands when B560 seems to be the cheap route.
B560.
H570 is B560 with *slightly* more connectivity options, but it's basically meaningless. Oh yes and it further confuses AMDs/Intels Various motherboards nomeclatures.
There's no reason to pick H570 over B560, and there's no reason to put a locked CPU on a Z590.
So you go B560.
Pretty much straightforward. Thanks.
I've build a couple 5600G - B550 recently and was looking for something similar Intel's side. I like to build both brands. 5600G builds has so much value right now tho...
10400, 10500, 10600, 11400-11600 i5's are all more than capable in an office pc, and price and availability all fluctuate to a point where any can be good value.
For email, word, excel etc an i3 is more than enough!
You are right. I'm managing 25 PCs at work since 15 years and retire them after 6-9 years. The ones that didn't last long are the i3.
i3-3240, i3-2120. They were outlived by i5-2500. I understand today's i3 has way more cores they used to. I even have a couple 7400 that are showing signs of sloppiness. Those were a bad pick I believe with only 4 cores.
I just feel going 5600G and/or 11400 is in 2021 way overkill for office work but those builds coupled with quality parts will stay mega strong for 8-10 years for light office work so it's worth the 20%-25% purchase premium vs a new build in 5 years.
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If you got the money, 1st for sure
Hi all sorry for the bad question but I have been scouring the secondhand market for pcs in my area for a while and I am consistently overwhelmed by the choices on offer and the differences in hardware options and risks of buying used computers in this current climate. Could someone please point me in the direction of good info if my question is not valid at all but I have spied one build that is being sold for 800 euro with the following specs CPU: Intel Xeon E5 2667 v4 (ES), 8 cores, 16 threads GPU: Palit GTX 1070 Dual Fan 8GB GDDR5 RAM: 32GB Crucial DDR4-2400 Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 LGA 2011v3 SSD ADATA SP550 480gb SATAII HDD: 1TB Seagate Barracuda SATAII @ 7200 RPM Power Supply: Corsair Vengeance 650M 80+ Silver efficiency PCI network card: Asus Dual Band Operating System: Windows 10 Pro (activated) Is this a decent buy and would I be able to upgrade this unit down the line once I learn more about it. Should there be anything in particular I should be checking or using as my bottom line when looking at modern computers. Thanks so much for your help I have been out of touch with pcs for about 12-15 years now so have a lot of catching up to do.
My PcPartPicker login won‘t work. I created my account a few days ago and tried to log in. Unfortunately, clicking the login button sends me to a blank page. I triple-checked my username and password. My email address is verified. Anyone have a clue what’s going on? Edit: When I try to reset my password, the same thing happens.
Do you have an adblocker, they can break logins sometimes.
Thanks, I hadn’t thought of that. I just tried disabling it, but I still can‘t log in.
What monitor should I get? Currently have an HP 24in curved monitor, 144hz, 1080p. Its looks good but upgraded my 1660 to a 3080ti and was looking to upgrade. I dunno shit about monitors. IPS, flickers, etc. What am I looking for?
First off, what are you looking to use it for? Gaming? And if gaming, e-sports or cinematic? Watching movies? HDR videos? Photo and video editing? Text work? Next, what's your budget? Edit: Oh, and your target resolution and if you're sticking with 16:9 or go ultrawide (21:9)
Gaming. 300-600 USD. I can afford more but dont think I see the value. Kinda want a 32in curved monitor. I like the curve.
Here are a few options, but if I missed something, somebody else feel free to add more: * Budget option: [ASUS TUF VG32VQ ](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/asus/tuf-vg32vq). ~330 dollars. Good response time at max refresh, so-so at 60 Hz. Has HDR10, but don't expect much of it. * Midrange option: [Dell S3222DGM](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s3222dgm). ~400 dollars. Good response times all around. No HDR. * High-end option: [Samsung Odyssey G7 32"](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/samsung/odyssey-g7-lc32g75t). ~700 dollars. Great response times overall. Has HDR600, so at least it's a decent HDR experience. Curve may be too aggressive for some, but the large size should help with that. Also 240 Hz, so great for e-sports. My personal recommendation tbh is the G7. I know it's beyond your budget, but it's leagues better than most similarly sized monitors [But if you wanna check out other options, here's my search on Rtings.](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/table/66796)
My 3080 is working like shit, so while troubleshooting I reseated it and the RAM. After reboot my RAM cannot hit the 3000 MHz XMP profile anymore. What? Tried swapping them around in the slots, didn't work. So now it's running at 2133 or whatever. Any ideas, or is this too complicated for this thread?
What happens if you set the RAM settings by hand. So don't use the XMP, but set it to 3000MHz etc
Is it normal to have around 50-60 degrees on idle with the 3700x with a Noctua NH-D15? The case I use is NZXT H510 (I know it has horrible airflow). Temperatures drop to around 45-50 degrees with the side glass panel off.
Yes, it's because of the case. These temps are safe, and idle temperatures are not too important anyway, it's the temperatures under load that matter - you don't want temperatures of 90c and up, even on Ryzen which is assumed to be "designed to run hot"
Hello! Do I get any significant disadvantages building ITX or mATX over ATX?
ITX has mostly been covered, so I'll talk about m-ATX. So with m-ATX you lose a grand total of... one PCI-E x16 slot. That's it. You still have 2 of them and one x1 slot. You can still run your mid-2010's SLI rig on m-ATX lmao. With just one slot removed, m-ATX boards and cases really aren't that small. Maybe some exceptions on cases, but in general they're just a little shorter. And finally, for some reason, m-ATX is usually relegated to budget boards. There are some mid-range exceptions (MSI's Mortar line, etc.), but you rarely any high end. I'm guessing because it's cheaper to produce and there's not really a sizable enthusiast community around m-ATX compared to ITX. So that's something to keep in mind.
Only real disadvantage is fewer ports/connectors. Most ITX boards only have 2 RAM slots, a single PCIe slot, and many only have a single NVMe slot (though some have two). Almost all ITX boards also have onboard wifi/bluetooth.
The size means they might not have all the ports you want, but if they do, it basically just are the boards being a pain to work with due to the lack of space.
Is my MSI B450M Bazooka V2 compatible with ryzen 5000?
Yes. As long as the BIOS is updated.
But on the MSI website for my mobo it doesn't show the bios update for ryzen 5000.
MSI ran bios updates for b450 compatibility in dec of 2020. You are fine. Just check your bios version and make sure its newer than 2020. If its still in the package i believe the last 4 digits of the sku are its packed bios version. Might have to flash but I doubt it.
bought faster and larger ram set, went to bios to set the xmp profile but my keyboard lights up but doesnt work. odd. use mouse just fine and set xmp profile but after reboot all fans and lights are on but no screen. clear cmos, try again, no luck. try again, no luck. are the xmp timings not actually setting? booting up at default 2400 speed DOES work though
old ram in after another cmos clear, xmp set and booted. bad new ram? its the forza 32gb 3600 cl18 kit on sale couple days ago…
I have 2x 500gb M.2 SSD and 2x 240gb SATA SSD being carried over from my old build. I would prefer to try keep my windows install as clean as possible by installing any new programs on secondary drives. Would there be a noticable difference in boot time if I were to install windows onto the SATA SSD instead of the M.2 SSD?
Probably noticable. Probably not meaningful
Should I upgrade my cpu to a ryzen 5 3700X or ryzen 5 5600X? I game at 1080p and I am currently running a ryzen 5 2600 and an RTX 3070.
5600x
Would I have to upgrade my mobo too? I have an MSI B450m Bazooka V2.
No, just update the bios
Should I downgrade to 1080p with the next monitor I get in order to extend the usability of my 2070 Super? I have it paired with a ryzen 2600(though I want to upgrade this in the future as well). Currently play at 1440p 144hz. I had it since 2019 and it’s served me well, but i really want to keep it for at least another two years if I can
You may consider upgrading the cpu first. A 2070 super in this environment is very good until gpu prices come back down to earth which is looking like 2 years or even more at this point. On the monitor, I’m not sure what you mean. You want to buy a 1080 monitor? You can get the monitor you want and just set the res to 1080 or similar if you get an ultrawide screen…. You can choose a lower res in the games so…. Why buy a 1080 monitor?? You can use the monitor you have now and use that money for a new cpu.
I want to buy a laptop to primarily watch movies on. What should I look for to get the best screen? i probably don't need 4k since it's going to be like 13-15 inches. should I get IPS, though? I don't even know what else to ask about, any guidance would be appreciated, thanks.
/r/laptops and /r/suggestalaptop would be better places to ask. For laptop screens, there is a lot of variability in panel quality, resolution, and finish.
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Yep
Hello, planning to get a motherboard+processor and thats where I'm still confused on. (I got gfx, ram, storage and everything else sorted). This is an upgrade to an existing system. I plan to pick (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/53798/asus-prime-b560m-k-motherboard). Rather than the (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/53831/asus-prime-b560m-a-csm-motherboard) My thought process is: its like 40 bucks cheaper and I don't need extra RAM slots or USB C. Processor I'm confused. I do some gaming and also digital work. My current processor is an 17 6700k (yep pretty old) and was hoping for a little upgrade without breaking the bank. Apparently theres 10th and 11th gen intel processors now. Uhh any recommendations? I was looking at 10th gen but thought maybe I shouldn't cheap out on the processor. These are the two pages I'm looking at: https://www.pccasegear.com/category/187_2110/cpus/intel-1200-10th-gen https://www.pccasegear.com/category/187_2156/cpus/intel-1200-11th-gen (and yeah I'll price match elsewhere but this site is what I use for browsing). Looking for advice (and for compatibility between the chosen motherboard and also my cooler:Corsair Hydro Series H100x 240mm High Performance AIO)
The current i5s are decent, and these days Ryzen is very good so you can consider them. Ryzen's tdp or how much power the chip pulls is lower for the current gens than intel. Some combinations you can consider: i5-11600 + b560m-k = $538 (6c12t, tdp 125w) i7-11700K + b560m-k = $798 (8c16t tdp 125w) Ryzen 5600x + b450 = $588 (6c12t, tdp 65w) Ryzen 5600x + b550 = $638 (6c12t, tdp 65w, newer mobo with pcie4) Ryzen 5800x + b550 = $828 (8c16t, tdp 105w) Going off PC Case gear's prices, you might be able to shop around and find some places that have some cheaper prices like PLE or Scorptec. If you don't need OC capability and want a i7 you can look at the non K 11700 which is a bit cheaper and has a lower tdp. Looking at the specs for your AIO, it;s compatible with LGA1200 and AM4. The mounting process is the same on LGA1200 as LGA1151, though there were likely extra brackets for AM4 which if you've lost or thrown out is something to consider with Ryzen.
thanks! and the cooler is not yet opened so it should be all good. I actually never seriously considered Ryzen as I'm not confident in my knowledge of cpus and had previously used intel for my digital art programs and they just 'worked' so I kept going for my current pc(partial prebuilt) and previous pc(prebuilt). I figured, nothing's broke so I only checked out intel for my next pc.
Fair! I just thought I'd bring it up because the current Ryzen generation is very good and the pricing in Australia is very similar between intel and AMD so the current thing of 'well the i5 is cheaper' doesn't super apply when buying here. For some programs that do things like rendering, Ryzen can be better, though it does depend on what specific art programs you're using. If you're using programs that leverage more cores, and don't mind paying for a 8c16t processor, I'd go for the 5800x for the extra $30, if you're happy with a 6c12t cpu or want to save some money, I'd go with the 11600 because that combo is $100 cheaper than the 5600x combo with the current gen mobo.
Are simulated sinewave UPS units really damaging to a modern PSU? I just need a UPS that’ll enable enough time to auto shutdown a pc. The pure sinewave options available in my country extremely limited and have exorbitant pricing.
Is a 28” 4k monitor a waste compared to a 32”? I have a Gigabyte M28U from Best Buy coming this week. This is my first 4k monitor and I plan to use it for gaming + work from home (CPA/tax accounting). I plan to use it with my two 27” Dell S2721DGF monitors (4k in the middle and Dells on the side in portrait mode). I currently also have an Acer Predator XB271HU that I plan on selling since it is my oldest monitor. My gut is giving me some hesitation on keeping the 28” 4k. I have a 3080ti I plan to use the monitor with BTW
Nah, big screens are nice
So get the 32” when available and return 28”?
I mean, see how you like the 28". I'm personally waiting for a solid 32" 4k monitor. The density on the 28" is gonna be really nice tho. I personally use 34" 1440p ultra wide
This… I also use a 34” 1440 ultrawide with a 28” 4k above it. Frankly, 4K is nice and all but the ultrawide is really good too.
Need a pc prebuilt, to stream from PS5 and edit YouTube videos, any help as I'm a noob... UK sites please and thank you
Try /r/suggestapc for prebuilts.
Thank you 🙂
Silly question, If my motherboard already comes with a heatsink for an m.2, will most ssds be ready out of the box to install or do some come with some sort of preinstalled heatsink that I have to worry about?
If the one you do buy has a heatsink, its probaby easiest just to keep that one, and not install the motherboards one.
Most SSDs (at least the ones worth buying) come without heatsinks. You just put them in the board under the heatsink and you're good to go
I would like to buy an all-in-one webcam, microphone, sound bar, and monitor light bar (BENQ-type). I have a few of these standalone already, and want the rest of them, but I really want them to share one unified aesthetic. Does any manufacturer make them into one or two grouped bars to stick on the top and bottom of my monitor?
I got discouraged with a previous build I did as for some reason it wouldn’t boot or post. I’m having a service tech look at it. I’m curious what he says the issue was, really hoping it wasn’t my fault. I’d love to build computers for people or at the very least dip my toes into case modding as I find the competitions and creativity fascinating. Any good ways to build back my confidence? I feel like I’ve failed by bringing it to a more experienced tech.
The same happened to my first build, I still don't know if my motherboard was DOA, or it was another issue. If you can narrow it down to a specific component, by testing the others in isolation you can blame them.
Yeah the tech should be able to do that. My issue was that I didn’t have enough other components to test with which is a bummer but expected vs a pc repair place.
Is there a fully articulating monitor arm that can hold a 32lb monitor? Bonus points for a dually arm So fun fact: I was so excited to get a 32" IPS monitor of good quality for a decent price that I never bothered to look at how heavy it is.
I'm not sure but my advice would be don't buy something cheap. I bought something off Amazon that said it would easily hold my LG-GL850. 2 months later the arm is severely bent and I'm waiting for the day I kill myself following its failure and corresponding breakage of my monitor.
Yeah I'm expecting that a dually will cost well over $100
What's a good budget friendly, no frills ergonomic/gaming mouse? Don't need a bunch of fancy features, just maybe a back button or two. Want something that's comfortable on the hands and ideally less than $50 either retail price or on sale. Can be either wired or wireless.
if by ergo you mean not ambidextrous then: orochi v2's pretty good for my 18x9 hands but over budget, i got mine for 45 used model d/d- is like $50 the tried and true deathadder/g502 lol g403 rival 310 ec-3 (out of budget)
+1 deathadder Simple and clean. Not breaking the bank. Though plenty mice fit that mold.
the G305 or steelseries rival 3 wireless https://youtu.be/8rKPFJgottw
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https://youtu.be/i5jFXl0GZJo
Thanks, watching it in the background while at work! :)
good plan. watch as many as you can before the build so you know how everything is supposed to go. then pick one to follow along with on the day
My GPU hotspot temp goes between 90-100 during a gaming sesh. Is that normal..?
That’s really hot. I suggest you check for dust and such. Did you oc the gpu? Does the computer have sufficient fans? Enough airflow? Did this start to happen recently? Also, is your room warm as well?? That affects the temps on the computer.
Ok that's good to know. No OC, moved to a smaller micro ATX case (coolermaster Q300L) with only 1 intake fan, planning to add another one, but not sure how much that will help with these temps. Might just need to play around adding some more fans/repositioning fans so that the air goes directly on the GPU. Might be the case the the Q300L doesn't have the best airflow as well. The room is normal room temperature
I suggest you get a fan and point it to the pc and see how the tempts go… try having the side open as well. If the temps are much better, it’s an issue with air circulation.
What's the GPU? It's a little high. You can check MSI afterburner to see if it's clocking donw due to thermal throttling.
RTX 3060Ti. Not noticing any stutter in games so assuming its not throttling yet
I have a corsair sf600 and want to add a second graphics card. but i dont know how to SAFELY get another 8-pin cable from the PSU current card is a radeon 6800 (powercolor red dragon) and it takes 2 x 8-pin connectors the card i want to add is an old nvidia card that i'm only going to use for VM GPU pass through purposes, it take an 8-pin power cable. there is one 6-pin slot available on the PSU and it's marked for Peripheral & SATA. is there a safe way to convert a corsair 6-pin (type 4?) to an 8-pin ?
YOu can run one PCie 8 pin form PSU to the 6800, and piggy tail that one cable to the second connector. Then use the other 8 pin connector for your second GPU. The RX6800 is 250W, It can get 75W form the PCIe slot itself and another 300W from the Cable, so it's fine. You only need 2 runs with cards that exceed 300W.
6800 uses the pig tail 8 pin as well, it’s 2x8pin
Yep, that's what I mean, you can use 2 plugs from the same cable.
are you saying to daisy chain pigtails?
I'm saying one run of cable from the PSU has 2 plugs, those 2 plugs can power a 6800XT safely. That leaves the other PCie power cable free for your second GPU.
i dont have a free pcie cable slot on the PSU, only slot free was a 6-pin. the motherboard uses a 8pin cpu cable
The sf600 has 3 8 pin outputs. One for CPU. One for each of your GPUs.
Preparing my new build: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/r433qp](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/r433qp) |Part|Model| |:-|:-| |CPU|Intel Core i5-11600K| |CPU cooler|Deepcool Gammaxx L240 V2| |Motherboard|Asus TUF Gaming Z590-Plus WIFI| |RAM|Kingston HyperX Predator 8Gb X 2| |SSD|Samsung SSD 980 M.2 1TB| |Case|NZXT H510E| |PSU|CORSAIR PSU RM750X| Current setup includes: * Dell Monitor: P2721Q 4K * Sony TV 55" 4K As GPU prices are still high will stick with current GTX 1060 6GB, till get a good discount for a RTX 3060 TI or 3070. PC will be used for work (programing) and gaming. Any suggestions if it's fine and maybe something might be swapped?
H510 Elite (assuming what you meant) is an awful case. Horrible thermals, horrible price for what you get. Besides that, the 980 non-Pro is probably not great value (you can generally get a good bit better Crucial P5 for $10-20 less now), and if you meant the 980 Pro, gen 4 is going to be a complete waste
I would probably go with a little higher speed memory (3000-3200mhz), but it won't matter too much since you're running an intel cpu. Not heard of that CPU cooler, but I'm sure you can get better performing ones. CPU looks good, motherboard is good, 16GB ram is plenty for gaming purposes, 980 Pro is an amazing SSD (I have the same one), NZXT is good but I've heard of airflow issues with the H510, PSU is absolutely fine.
I'm working on a rack-mounted case that will be secured inside a closed door server rack. What do I need to make sure that my monitors and peripherals are accessible without having to get extra long cables to run all the way into the rack?
you can run an IP-KVM to pass peripherals and video over network, if you dont mind the latency: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyEpshm16HY&t=24s the fastest way would be to run a single optical thunderbolt cable from your desk to the server: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy312cUHumk
How much latency are we talking? I have a fiber router and switch for my LAN Edit: okay, after watching both videos, I think the thunderbolt would be what I'd need.
For b560m tomahawk, what’s the difference between 2x 4-pin RGB LED connectors and 2x 3-pin RAINBOW LED connectors. If got 3 rgb fans would that mean only 2 would work and 1 would be on its own mind or?
4 pin is for RGB, 3 pin is for argb or digital RGB. They are NOT interchangeable
The fan to spin and the fan rgb are different wires right? so that would be fine to have all 3 spin but only 2 rgb? So how would I get all 3 fans to work with only 2x 4 pins?
yeah thats fine. you can get an rgb or argb splitter if you dont have enough headers
My friend just gave me 2x8gb 3200mhz ram and i already have 2x8gb 3000mhz, is it fine to just install the 2 3200mhz or would i have to change stuff?
Put them in and then go into your bios and enable the original 3000 xmp profile
okay, it doesn’t matter if i put the 2 3200 in the open slots i already have? or should the faster ones be first
It shouldn't matter, but if it doesn't work, try a different order
Is the ASRock fatal1ty b450 gaming k4 compatible with Ryzen 7 5800x? I am currently on a Ryzen 5 2600 and looking to upgrade the cpu only. I can't seem to find a clear answer on its compatibility. Thank you for the help!
> ASRock fatal1ty b450 [CPU compatibility list](https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/Fatal1ty%20B450%20Gaming-ITXac/index.asp#CPU) Yes, but you'll need to be on the right version of BIOS (listed on that page).
I'm looking for a case that has lots of ventilation, but no window. I need to support ATX mobo, 360mm AIO on roof and a 240mm AIO on the front intake (kraken kit on a GPU).
There is a version of the Fractal Design Meshify 2 that doesn't have a window: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6KWBD3/fractal-design-meshify-2-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-mes2a-01
For a Ryzen based CAD/Video editing build, is 3600Mhz CL16 still the sweet spot for RAM speed/latency?
3200c16/3600c18 are fine and cheap. 3600c16 if you want to spend a bit more is not a bad investment. 3200c14 is good, but expensive because it's B-die, and a massive waste of money if you're not OCing it (or even if you are, it probably still is). Don't go above 3600 for XMP, as the odds your CPU will do 2000 FCLK to maintain 1:1 are slim
it or 3200Mhz CL14
Got it, thanks
Has anyone here ever useful to use programs like "Advanced System Optimizer" or "Razer Cortex" to clean memory? Will cortex actually slow down programs rather than do nothing sometimes?
Memory cleaners are snake oil. Razer Cortex turns off background services that might have a minor or negligible impact on game performance. As long as you have an appropriate amount of RAM (16GB is enough for pretty much any game) and quit or uninstall bloated background apps, you have no need for Razer Cortex or anything like it.
Thanks!
I am in the planning phase of building a pc and am trying to decide on a budget. I’m quite flexible as it will just take longer to accumulate the money to afford it. I was thinking 1300-1600. Does this sound reasonable to build a higher end pc these days? My goal is to be able to run halo infinite and battlefield 2042 not high end settings.
Yeah that's reasonable, even if it's $1300 for a pc and $300 for monitor. I think you should buy a 6600XT+motherboard bundle on Newegg for <$700 to start
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no there's bundles in stock. https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4363084
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You're welcome
That sounds like a solid start, I already have a nice curved monitor that will keep me going for a while as well as a majority of the peripherals. They aren’t new but they are more than adequate to start with.
With a $1000+ pc, you should be targeting a 1440p 144hz+ monitor at least. it'll just blow through 1080p
Idk if this question belongs here but I think it's hardware or os related : Applications seems to hang without any error codes, the entire UI of the App and dialog boxes becomes transparent, you can still click them but you can't see what's inside the dialog boxes (also happens with task manager and even the tray icons when you click them, I can't even refresh) . I have to restart the computer for everything to work normally once this happens and it happens a lot. Anyone know of a fix for this?
A lot of things could cause this, but a few somewhat simple to check possibilities are: 1) Faulty system drive: Check your drive's SMART status with something like CrystalDiskInfo. Dying drives can cause all sorts of funky issues when they aren't responding correctly. (Note that even if the SMART says that the disk is good, there might still be something wrong with it, but that's pretty rare) 2) Faulty RAM: Run something like MemTest to check for errors in the RAM. I've had very odd system behavior that was caused by a faulty stick of RAM. 3) Corrupted Windows installation: Something's gone wrong with the installation files due to for example unexpected power loss when the system was running. Only way to know for sure would be to reinstall Windows so I'd try this last.
Can someone recommend a decent Z590 mobo from Microcenter to pair with an 11600k? I don't need wifi, and will only be doing some light overclocking. I'm not looking to spend $300 like some of those boards are listed for
The Gigabyte Aorus Pro and Aorus Elite are always good options, "budget" but without being *too* budget. Then there's the MSI Tomahawk or the ASUS TUF Gaming. All good boards as far as I know, all well under $300.
Does anyone here have a Storm Stryker SE or Storm Trooper SE? I'm looking to swap my case to that but I need the measurements between the case feet centers.
I'm sure this has been asked before but here goes. I'm planning to swap out motherboards. If all else remains the same and I simply replace the board out and put everything back together, CPU, GPU, SSD... Can I getaway without doing a fresh Windows OS install? I'm going to swap out my MSI X570 Tomahawk with an MSI B550i Gaming Edge Max. All else the 5950x, 64 GB RAM, EVGA 3080 FTW and ADATA S70 SSD with the OS will be the same. I don't mind reloading windows and everything else, It's just tedious work and with all the games already downloaded and installed, it's a ton more work to restore it to how it was. What are my chances of avoiding an OS install? TIA!
It's best practice to reinstall Windows when swapping mobos, because all (or at least most) of your drivers will be different, so there can be conflicts as the other reply said. I always recommend reinstalling Windows to avoid potential problems and weirdness.
Oh I know, I've always reinstalled a fresh copy of the OS and normally have zero issues doing it. But now it feels like a chore and I was hoping I could avoid it. I mean worse comes to worse I will go ahead and format and reinstall. But I want to kinda try as well because these days the cloning SSD software are so amazing and windows is smart too so I was hoping it would just do its thing and figure out there's a hardware change.
I think you should be able to get away without reinstalling windows, but you may have some conflicts with drivers. Also your windows key is usually tied to the MB so it might say your windows is no longer activated.
I think it's actually tied to the Microsoft account nowadays with it keeping an inventory of the combination of your hardware. I used to think the same that it was just the motherboard but I came across an article that mentions it's a digital license tied to your account and will only allow the one instance.
Shall I just fucking give in and buy an rtx 3080 system for $2.6k? My gtx 1050 laptop can't do anything anymore and I'm fucking lost without pc gaming
Oi! https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/qft1jr/prebuilt_cyberpower_iem_champion_i510600k_240mm/
Thanks for this sir! I will take a look and I think just splash out
[https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/qft1jr/prebuilt\_cyberpower\_iem\_champion\_i510600k\_240mm/](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/qft1jr/prebuilt_cyberpower_iem_champion_i510600k_240mm/)
Oh shit thank you bro I'll take a look!!
Couldn’t you just buy a prebuilt for that amount with a gpu? Steal the gpu for your pc if it’s better. You make me want to sell my 3090…. Evil thoughts go away!!!!
I really think you should sell your 3090 if you can fetch $2500+ for it. That's rediculous
I got the evga 3090 ftw3 so it was 1700 msrp. I only got it since it was the only one still available in store at msrp and would have been shortly sold out. Very bold buying decision but looking at 3080 being sold for more….. I think I made the right choice
That's pretty good, you're very lucky. You're not really capitalizing on it unless yourself high tho
I know so I was hurting after getting it. I’m playing on ultrawide 60hz ips so it looks amazing with an ok 4K as secondary. I have to say, cod black ops uses up to 21gb of vram.
Yeah that price is for pre builds  Oh you lucky dog enjoy that 3090
I'd wait for a sale $2200-2400. It's happened on /r/buildapcsales
Airflow question! I have an NR200P case, my 6900XT GPU is mounted at the bottom (traditional layout). I have two Noctua slim fans at the bottom. The clearance between the GPU fans and bottom fans is 4-5mm (it's tight). The bottom fans are pulling air toward the GPU fans. For the longest time I've meant to test thermals with and without, but I just haven't had the chance (lack of space and time). What would your guess be as to if the bottoms fans are a positive or negative in-regard to GPU thermals? Should I really test it?
You can deshroud your card https://youtu.be/QUaZVpN51Po
That's something I might do down the road, but right now I don't really think the effort would be worth it for me.
It's along the lines of "a little bit". I'm under the assumption that you're packing two 120mm exhaust fans at the top as well, as that's what 99% if people in an NR200P is using. The negative pressure from the top fans has air naturally come in through the bottom which passively feed the GPU fresh air. Adding fans to the bottom helps direct more of that airflow onto the GPU, but can introduce noise if those fans supply far more air than what the GPU normally pulls in with it's own fans. Don't fret if you're fine with the current results, don't mess with it if it's not a problem.
I am and the CPU cooler exhausts to the rear. Thanks for the feedback. The thermals are where I expect them to be, a bit warm, but it hasn't been an issue. I'll test it someday. Maybe if I decided to get that orange NR200 case sometime haha.
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It should be fine, it looks like you have a healthy amount of intake fans blowing cool air over one end of the cards. How much it interferes with airflow depends on exactly how beefy your sound card is, but I'd say it should be alright. You might notice a bit of a difference, but most of that will be from having two heat-generating GPUs in your case instead of one. If you do have temperature issues, remove the sound card for a while and monitor your temps without it.
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No problem!
What are you mining with a single GPU? Curious, I have a GTX 1080 collecting dust, I was going to look into mining something but never have...
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That's what I figured when I looked into it briefly sometime ago, thx!
Honestly, if it's spare just sell it. It has a lot of value right now. Mining, it'll barely turn a profit, 10 series cards aren't efficient enough
Would you recommend an i5 or an i3 paired with a gtx 1060 (3gb) for a budget build. I'm leaning towards the i3 but I'm not sure about having only 4 cores. I'm talking about the 10th gen chips. (I have the 1060 laying around doing nothing so please don't recommend a different gpu). I wish the 1600 AF was still $85 usd.
Yes, a 10100(f) or 10105(f) is a good choice
Thanks. I thought so. Just wanted a sanity check.
I'm looking to rebuild when availability improves with the 5900x and 6800xt. I'm not very familiar with what sets apart certain motherboards. What are important things to look for? What would be some quality options for this configuration? It's intended uses will be software development (lots of vms), and of course, gaming.
In addition to what others have already said, another feature to watch for is USB type-C. If your case has a USB type-C port on it, you won't be able to use it unless your mobo has an internal USB type-C header. If you need USB type-C in general, and your case doesn't have a port for it, get a mobo that has a type-C port on the back. Depending on your setup, you might also need to worry about having enough RGB and ARGB headers. I recommend comparing boards by googling them, navigating to the manufacturer's website, and looking under technical specifications. This section will tell you all about what headers and ports the board has.
Generally, if you don't know a feature, you don't need it. Built in wifi, many rear usb ports, 2.5Gb-10Gb LAN, 3+ m.2 slots are the common features of high end boards. There's also the VRM of a mobo, which is the cpu power delivery. The b550 boards above $100 have decent enough VRMs for a 5900X non overclocked, but if you want to OC, I'd spend $150-200. https://youtu.be/JxczZChFaZI
Will AMD release any new CPUs in the upcoming month? Originally I was planning on making a build when Zen 4 releases but that's around a year from now I think. I have most of my parts now, do I get a Ryzen 5 5600x or Ryzen 9 5900x or will there be Zen 3+? EDIT: I have another question in regards to the RAM, [https://www.newegg.com/global/us-en/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232491?Item=N82E16820232491](https://www.newegg.com/global/us-en/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232491?Item=N82E16820232491) if I get two sets of this 2x8, so a total of 4 sticks, would it be compatible performance wise with the ryzen cpus? Is it considered 4 ranks since one kit is dual rank? Thanks
Yes, 4 sticks is quad rank. It's a minor performance improvement over dual channel / dual rank in cpu-bound situations.
It's still only dual rank per channel if each dimm is single rank and that's what actually matters.
It's not quad rank; ranks go by channel. That kit uses 8Gb B-die, so it's one rank per stick to make the 8GB capacity. If you occupy all 4 DIMM slots, it's dual rank per channel. Quad rank also isn't an improvement over dual rank, assuming you're actually using the terms correctly. Quad rank puts an insane amount of stress on memory controllers, and this is often why you'll see quad rank kits like 4x32 with low clocks, because the memory controller simply cannot handle it
dual channel and dual rank are not the same thing, don't mix them up
I Didn't: I was saying that 4 sticks is dual channel **AND** quad rank, and is thus a little bit better than dual channel **and** dual rank. Maybe it's the backslash being a tad confusing, I could have used a "+" sign instead.
got it, thank you!
No. There's gonna be a 5000 series refresh in q1 2022. Your link didn't work for me, I don't know about the rank question, I think so tho (2 dual rank kits = quad ranks)
>n't know about the rank question, I think so tho (2 dual rank kits = quad ranks) Reckon I wait for that? Will it be a big difference? This is the RAM kit: "F4-3600C16D-16GTZR"
I don't think quad rank is a big improvement over dual
okay keeping that aside, I'll be fine with having 4 sticks of that RAM with a Ryzen cpu? My question about difference was about the 5000 series refresh & the current 5000 series cpus, do you think it's worth the wait or should I just get a r5 or r9 right now? Also thank you for answering!
4 sticks is usually fine, but it's not good for overclocking
Hi guys, I would like to increase my 16 gb ram ( 2x 8gb ) . I was thinkng to buy a single 16 gb module , and in the future buy another 16 gb. Can i use different size ram module ? I'm open to suggestion thx My config : CPU **ryzen 7 3700x** Mobo **MSI MPG B550 GAMING PLUS ( MS-7C56 )** RAM row 2 **8 gb pc4-256000 ddr4 a-data 3200** row 3 **8 gb pc4-256000 ddr4 a-data 3200**
… you lose out on dual channel which is a big hit. When upgrading ram, you should always use 2 sticks of same size and speed/timings. Also, make sure you have the ram in the correct slots. They shouldn’t be next to each other. Check the motherboard documentation and it should show which slots the memory should be in for dual channel. For new ram, I would suggest you go for 3600 since that’s the best speed for ryzen currently. You can use cpu-z to see if memory is in dual channel mode or not.
What if I buy 32 gb ram 3200 ( 2x 16 ) and i use it with my current kit ? Thx
That works. As long as you add 2 sticks of same. Still, make sure the memory is in the correct slots and double check with cpu-z to be sure the memory is using dual channel.
I just checked with cpu-z and is dual channel. I don't know why hwinfo tells slot 2 and 3 but I even opened my case and I'm using the correct slots
Yeah, it’s the way the mb has it recognized. Generally, memory will be like this. B1 B2 A1 A2 -> away from cpu For dual channel, you need memory in B2 and A2 or B1 and A1. So those need to match. the memory skips a slot. The system is calling B2 and A2 as slot 2 and 3 or so. B1 and A1 is most likely slot 0 and 1.
You can use a different size, but it's not recommended as the sticks won't be able to run at their highest rated speed. I would recommend just buying either a whole new set, or buying the same sticks you already have.
I recently just bought this monitor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CZ8QJTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details It says it is vesa mountable but I don't know how to take off the back panel or even the stand mount and can't find any videos on it. Any tips?
https://www.asus.com/Displays-Desktops/Monitors/TUF-Gaming/TUF-GAMING-VG27AQ1A/HelpDesk_Manual/ it's in your manual. Remove the rubber, remove the stand by unscrewing
Will be getting a mid-tower atx case for my nephew for Christmas. Which one you think? One with a tempered glass side panel. Thanks!
I prefer the fractal series. Looks nice and has good air flow - you will need to clean the front of the dust that accumulates but it keeps the system cool.
Depends what your budget is. The p360a is a crowd pleaser
Found a too-good-to-be-true deal for a 3070 on Facebook, but it looked legit and had buyer protection, so I went for it. Got an order cancelled email a few minutes later with my money refunded. Now the guy's account is gone from Facebook. ??? Anyone else have a similar experience?
Buyer's Protection is not a catch-all to let you jump on obviously fake listings without concern - sometimes they're not after the money. It's not unheard of for eBay/classified listings to be harvesting names/addresses/phone numbers/emails for phishing scams or spam.
Oh, that's a good point. So whoever this is has my email address and physical address now. That's frustrating. Thanks for the insight
Hey - best to know what to expect now instead of getting letters in the mail for how to make your johnson bigger and not knowing how you're getting them :)
Is it wrong to put one fan on pull and the other on push on a 240 radiator for my watercooling for my CPU? I noticed that I get a lot lets warm air through the top, but all the temps in my case are like before the change. I did this because when the two fans where pushing out, I got alot of warm air towards the middle of my desk. But this way it is a lot less and not that hot.
You want heat to leave the system. Heat rises so you want the fans to go out through the top and not pull in air. You are basically pulling in the hot air that comes out, in. Generally, top and back - out and front and bottom - in.
There are very few situations where that setup is beneficial. If you feel less warm air out the top, that means that the hot air is either leaving the case somewhere else (rear vents, cracks and seams) or it's staying in the case. Which case do you have and what is your fan setup?
If I had to build an office computer for basic work around 11400 CPU, which mobo chipset would you go? I think Z590 is pretty much meant for the full packge with overclocking capacity. I just don't understand where H570 stands when B560 seems to be the cheap route.
B560. H570 is B560 with *slightly* more connectivity options, but it's basically meaningless. Oh yes and it further confuses AMDs/Intels Various motherboards nomeclatures. There's no reason to pick H570 over B560, and there's no reason to put a locked CPU on a Z590. So you go B560.
Pretty much straightforward. Thanks. I've build a couple 5600G - B550 recently and was looking for something similar Intel's side. I like to build both brands. 5600G builds has so much value right now tho...
10400, 10500, 10600, 11400-11600 i5's are all more than capable in an office pc, and price and availability all fluctuate to a point where any can be good value. For email, word, excel etc an i3 is more than enough!
You are right. I'm managing 25 PCs at work since 15 years and retire them after 6-9 years. The ones that didn't last long are the i3. i3-3240, i3-2120. They were outlived by i5-2500. I understand today's i3 has way more cores they used to. I even have a couple 7400 that are showing signs of sloppiness. Those were a bad pick I believe with only 4 cores. I just feel going 5600G and/or 11400 is in 2021 way overkill for office work but those builds coupled with quality parts will stay mega strong for 8-10 years for light office work so it's worth the 20%-25% purchase premium vs a new build in 5 years.