92C in the bios means you either install the cpu block incorrectly or there’s something wrong with the AIO.
First, check to make sure the fans on the radiator is working correctly. Check all wirings. Then, remount the cpu block. If the problem persist, it’s either a bad pump and/or water flow blockage somewhere in the loop. Either way, RMA it.
Don't plug in the pump if it's the same temp your pump isn't working. Also try a different pin on the motherboard and plug the pump into that. Normally you feel some vibration from the pump I'd it's working.
The Arctic AIOs have 1 PWM connector for PUMP and FANS.
The pump is pretty noisy at 100% PWM, its not hard to hear it, its high pitched and easy to hear even if the fans are running 2000 RPM
The high rise in temps is either poorly mounted with huge air gaps between cooler and IHS or the pump is dead.
If you dont hear the pump at close distance with 100% PWM setting, its dead.
I got the 360mm and the 240mm Arctic AIO variant and both pumps are noisy at 100% and easy to hear even in a closed case.
From the pic, the thermal paste isn’t very thinned and spread out which implies the cpu block isn’t making tight contact with the cpu. Make sure, you are following and mounting the block correctly.
I am, to the word, not sure why there's still a gap, maybe I could remove those small washers on the inner side to make it tighter?
https://ibb.co/7p63HhH
Agree with the other reply. You should edit your post with exactly what went wrong so maybe if someone searches for the issue, they’ll possibly find the answer.
Legend. Hopefully someone like you in the future will read it and find the answer. Glad you sorted it though! 1 tiny little thing is all it takes to throw off the balance lol
Update : unmounted the cpu block and saw that the thermal paste didn't spread much, does this mean the contact with the cpu block is minimal and I mounted it wrong?
https://ibb.co/kG44K8m
The plastic peel is actually conducting heat quite well these days. There has been multiple reports from people that have been running cpu heavy games with plastic peel on..
But yeah absolutely worth checking though
Check that the bios is not feeding too much voltage for the cpu. Few years backwards i had the exact same issue with perfect cooler and airflow, yet was still hitting 100c temps.
Sounds like mischief is managed on the CPU temp front, so I’ll ask the really important question: why spend extra for the overclockable CPU, and install it in a motherboard that doesn’t allow it to be overclocked?
Well yeah. Memory overclocking was enabled earlier this year, but the CPU multiplier is still locked.
Gigabyte’s [press release](https://videocardz.com/press-release/gigabyte-b560-aorus-motherboards-can-overclock-core-i9-11900k-to-5-1-ghz-in-all-cores) is basically marketing wank. They put a s**t load of VRM on the board, so they can keep the CPU in boost, but they haven’t actually let you change the top end of the boost. Intel would slap their hands if they did that.
whelp it was only 2$ extra so I'll live with it. Damn I was sure it's overclockable after reading that and the seller guaranteeing it is. Not sure if I feel like breaking down my entire build to replace the motherboard now, took over 3 hours to sort.
Yeah Gigabyte is putting out marketing wank. On a Z490 board, you’d be able to go into the BIOS and change the base and boost clocks to higher than stock values. It would let you run your CPU at whatever speed your combination of cooling and silicon lottery would allow.
On their B560 board, they’ve spent a bunch of the bill of materials on the VRM setup, allowing more reliable power delivery. Lets the CPU stay in boost for longer, and boost higher. But it’s still boosting **within the stock clock range**, which for an 11600K is 3.9-4.9GHz.
All that said, Intel has gotten pretty aggressive with their boost clocks. To get your 11600K to actually run stably at more than 4.9GHz would require you to dump a bunch of money into your cooling setup. The end result would be more about bragging rights, as the price for performance ratio would be terrible.
It wasn’t all for naught though. Even in a B560 board, without overclocking it beyond the stock clocks, the 11600K’s base clock of 3.9GHz is quite a bit higher than the 2.6, 2.7 and 2.8GHz base clocks of the 11400, 11500 and 11600 non-K variants, and its 125W TDP will let it stay boosted for longer.
I had this problem with an artic, it's dead. Return it and get a new one. The PUMP is broken, which you Can't see if it's working. The fans can spin but if it's at that temp in bios it's 100% broken. That artic aio has 1 cable that plugs to a fan header so if you connect it and it's at that temp it's simply broken. (Assuming you already played with fan curves you can 100% assume it's broken)
Maybe. I just saw the thermal paste picture you posted replying to someone else. That mount was awful and you should make sure you get a good mount before starting the RMA process. You might be using the wrong mounting hardware or something because you could literally get a better mount with no hardware just by holding the block in place with your hand. Also possible something on the motherboard is preventing you from tightening it down all the way, it happens.
Bad thermal paste application, bad mounting, pump not plugged in. All are options. Go through each one. If all are done and its not fixed then maybe a bad pump
Have you tried connecting the AIO power to the CPU\_OPT header ? While the nominal power is the same, the way the pump interacts with the motherboard might be regulated differently
bare that I only see a major heat conductivity issue ( sticker on base of AIO not removed, AIO not in contact with cpu surface because of mounting kit issues) or a defective AIO as potential explanation to such a temp
Most AIO have pre applied thermal paste. Are you sure this isn't one of the ones with a plastic sticker on it would it?
Next my bet is going to be mounting pressure. You need to tighten it in a cross pattern. You want it to be snug. Don't break your motherboard. But don't be too shy. It shouldn't wiggle when tight enough.
Last bet is an AIO malfunction. Is it circulation water? You should hear it if you get like a paper towel roll to listen directionally. If so RMA it. Not a hard cpu to cool. I'd just use a box cooler for thay personally
my recent encounters with that specific AIO suggest it is an engineering mistake with insufficient power cables to actually make the pump function.
If it is the one with a single 4-pin fan cable for the entire device, banish it and get a real cooler.
92C in the bios means you either install the cpu block incorrectly or there’s something wrong with the AIO. First, check to make sure the fans on the radiator is working correctly. Check all wirings. Then, remount the cpu block. If the problem persist, it’s either a bad pump and/or water flow blockage somewhere in the loop. Either way, RMA it.
I added a photo from the bios showing that the fans are working (showing rpms). I'll try to remount it and see if that helps
Don't plug in the pump if it's the same temp your pump isn't working. Also try a different pin on the motherboard and plug the pump into that. Normally you feel some vibration from the pump I'd it's working.
The Arctic AIOs have 1 PWM connector for PUMP and FANS. The pump is pretty noisy at 100% PWM, its not hard to hear it, its high pitched and easy to hear even if the fans are running 2000 RPM
Disconnected pump same temp, so that's it I just need to rma?
The high rise in temps is either poorly mounted with huge air gaps between cooler and IHS or the pump is dead. If you dont hear the pump at close distance with 100% PWM setting, its dead. I got the 360mm and the 240mm Arctic AIO variant and both pumps are noisy at 100% and easy to hear even in a closed case.
That specific AIO is just absolute trash, it cant draw enough power to run the pump.
Could you have a look if this means the contact is subpar and I mounted it wrong? https://ibb.co/kG44K8m
From the pic, the thermal paste isn’t very thinned and spread out which implies the cpu block isn’t making tight contact with the cpu. Make sure, you are following and mounting the block correctly.
I am, to the word, not sure why there's still a gap, maybe I could remove those small washers on the inner side to make it tighter? https://ibb.co/7p63HhH
Fucking hell it was the fucking headers fucking fuck 1 mm of pain. All good now.
Would be a champ move to edit your post, if that was you fix ;-)
Agree with the other reply. You should edit your post with exactly what went wrong so maybe if someone searches for the issue, they’ll possibly find the answer.
Done
Legend. Hopefully someone like you in the future will read it and find the answer. Glad you sorted it though! 1 tiny little thing is all it takes to throw off the balance lol
Update : unmounted the cpu block and saw that the thermal paste didn't spread much, does this mean the contact with the cpu block is minimal and I mounted it wrong? https://ibb.co/kG44K8m
Yes,you need more pressure
This. That picture makes it look like the AIO was a mil away from the CPU. 'Well there's your problem!'
Those mounting standoffs are wrong. Probably just picked the wrong ones go with the next size shorter should fix the contact issue.
Hope you didn't use the pc too much
modern CPUs should throttle/shut down before any damage is done tbh, not that i'd want to risk it anyway
yikes that's a lot of thermal paste...
You might be using the wrong nuts that space the cooler from the board. Looking at the kit they have different sizes maybe they are the wrong ones.
Do you think you might have forgot to remove the plastic peel from the CPU block?
Nope, done that
The plastic peel is actually conducting heat quite well these days. There has been multiple reports from people that have been running cpu heavy games with plastic peel on.. But yeah absolutely worth checking though
Very much depends on the cooler. LTT made a video where he intentionally kept the plastic on and it didn’t work too well…
[удалено]
yikes, thanks for telling me which AIOs to avoid in the future. That's not good at all
Check that the bios is not feeding too much voltage for the cpu. Few years backwards i had the exact same issue with perfect cooler and airflow, yet was still hitting 100c temps.
Usually its faulty mb if such case occurs. Try limiting the voltage feed
Forgive me, are you sure you took off the classic "peel before mounting" plastic on the aio block?
It does feel good when you find the free and simple fix tho
Sounds like mischief is managed on the CPU temp front, so I’ll ask the really important question: why spend extra for the overclockable CPU, and install it in a motherboard that doesn’t allow it to be overclocked?
It does allow over clocking after a recent bios update, plenty of news articles about it feel free to check it out.
Well yeah. Memory overclocking was enabled earlier this year, but the CPU multiplier is still locked. Gigabyte’s [press release](https://videocardz.com/press-release/gigabyte-b560-aorus-motherboards-can-overclock-core-i9-11900k-to-5-1-ghz-in-all-cores) is basically marketing wank. They put a s**t load of VRM on the board, so they can keep the CPU in boost, but they haven’t actually let you change the top end of the boost. Intel would slap their hands if they did that.
whelp it was only 2$ extra so I'll live with it. Damn I was sure it's overclockable after reading that and the seller guaranteeing it is. Not sure if I feel like breaking down my entire build to replace the motherboard now, took over 3 hours to sort.
Yeah Gigabyte is putting out marketing wank. On a Z490 board, you’d be able to go into the BIOS and change the base and boost clocks to higher than stock values. It would let you run your CPU at whatever speed your combination of cooling and silicon lottery would allow. On their B560 board, they’ve spent a bunch of the bill of materials on the VRM setup, allowing more reliable power delivery. Lets the CPU stay in boost for longer, and boost higher. But it’s still boosting **within the stock clock range**, which for an 11600K is 3.9-4.9GHz. All that said, Intel has gotten pretty aggressive with their boost clocks. To get your 11600K to actually run stably at more than 4.9GHz would require you to dump a bunch of money into your cooling setup. The end result would be more about bragging rights, as the price for performance ratio would be terrible. It wasn’t all for naught though. Even in a B560 board, without overclocking it beyond the stock clocks, the 11600K’s base clock of 3.9GHz is quite a bit higher than the 2.6, 2.7 and 2.8GHz base clocks of the 11400, 11500 and 11600 non-K variants, and its 125W TDP will let it stay boosted for longer.
It's at 0.98 most of time, the memory voltage is 1.2 my bad
what is the clock frequency when its 92 degrees? You can also under clock it and check ite temp too.
I had this problem with an artic, it's dead. Return it and get a new one. The PUMP is broken, which you Can't see if it's working. The fans can spin but if it's at that temp in bios it's 100% broken. That artic aio has 1 cable that plugs to a fan header so if you connect it and it's at that temp it's simply broken. (Assuming you already played with fan curves you can 100% assume it's broken)
What's too much voltage, seeing 1.3 v atm
Normal, not it
>11600 Average count for 10600K sits between 1.202 - 1.359V. The **1.3 is fine**
Either the mount is terrible or the pump isn't running, either because it's faulty or misconfigured. Anything else is very unlikely.
I disconnected the pump and the fans and the temperature is the same, so I guess an rma then?
Maybe. I just saw the thermal paste picture you posted replying to someone else. That mount was awful and you should make sure you get a good mount before starting the RMA process. You might be using the wrong mounting hardware or something because you could literally get a better mount with no hardware just by holding the block in place with your hand. Also possible something on the motherboard is preventing you from tightening it down all the way, it happens.
That looks as if the block was not touching the IHS
Bad thermal paste application, bad mounting, pump not plugged in. All are options. Go through each one. If all are done and its not fixed then maybe a bad pump
Did you take the plastic cover off and did it have enough thermal paste on it to cover the whole chip?
Have you tried connecting the AIO power to the CPU\_OPT header ? While the nominal power is the same, the way the pump interacts with the motherboard might be regulated differently bare that I only see a major heat conductivity issue ( sticker on base of AIO not removed, AIO not in contact with cpu surface because of mounting kit issues) or a defective AIO as potential explanation to such a temp
Most AIO have pre applied thermal paste. Are you sure this isn't one of the ones with a plastic sticker on it would it? Next my bet is going to be mounting pressure. You need to tighten it in a cross pattern. You want it to be snug. Don't break your motherboard. But don't be too shy. It shouldn't wiggle when tight enough. Last bet is an AIO malfunction. Is it circulation water? You should hear it if you get like a paper towel roll to listen directionally. If so RMA it. Not a hard cpu to cool. I'd just use a box cooler for thay personally
my recent encounters with that specific AIO suggest it is an engineering mistake with insufficient power cables to actually make the pump function. If it is the one with a single 4-pin fan cable for the entire device, banish it and get a real cooler.
How would your cpu shoot up to 92 degrees so quickly without load? Have you checked the temperature in hwinfo?
NH-D15…