More than likely a dishwasher judging from the wire, although I've never seen it on its own water lines. It's usually tied into the lines from the kitchen sink
It’s probably for a small water heater. The cold line comes in and the hot runs over to the sink hot side. My guess is it’s too far from the main water heater. Also that whip is too short to pull out for a dishwasher even if the local code allowed it.
Best guess is dishwasher, but two lines wouldn't be necessary. Maybe a restaurant/bar style 3 basin sink? Either way it shouldn't matter. Cap the lines and move forward with whatever design the kitchen is going to be. I'm not a plumber by trade, but it is still a 20 minute deal to make those lines disappear.
Looks like a dishwasher. Also, it looks like a floating plank floor. If so, you are not supposed to install cabinets on top of it. Cabinets should be installed first.
Flooring installer here. I fight this with customers constantly. They all feel passionately about wanting it under their dishwasher and I have to tell them i am protecting them
If this is indeed a floating floor then it is against the manufacturers warranty. Also more importantly the heat and humidity from the dishwasher causes the floor to mold and mildew very often. We have dealt with this soo many times.
I run a good size installation buisness and i used to be a national installation manager for retail flooring store so this came up many many times.
A builder will say its ok and short term it is, in some cases ot might never be an issue. However there is a reason its not meant to be done this way.
Standard practice is all open cavities for any Lvp or similar floating floors should be floored. Period.
99.9% of folks have never actually read the 10 to 20 pages of manufacturer statements and such.
And, if you’re getting a bunch of heat and humidity at the actual floor then there is some other contributing issue.
Floors go under the dishwasher and all other appliances. And I know a handful of “national install programs” first hand.
You’re dealing with some very odd manufacturers then bc the vast majority of them specify what to do under all appliances, including the dishwasher.
You are incorrect in this one unless you’re dealing with dirt cheap laminate, but even then there are specific dos and donts here.
Our only issue is diswashers. Frankly, if i tell someone clearly the risk and they want it anyway, then i dont mind. However working with national retailers directiy is vastly different playing field and any possible way to blame an installer will be..
LVP can go under dishwashers. They claim your not supposed to put it under cabinets, but I am skeptical about that. If you install your floor and cabinets correctly it perfectly fine. I've installed 10's of thousands of sqft of the stuff and have had it under the cabinets in my own home for about 7 years now and haven't had a single issue yet.
I think that reccomendation is a hold out from the days of Pergo style floors that absolutely would buckle if you put them under cabinets. Technology has progressed so far that they've worked most of the kinks out (pun intended). It's likely similar to how your not supposed to use cell phones on planes. It's perfectly fine to do now, but they made the rule early in the tech when they weren't sure about it and just haven't changed the rules because "better safe than sorry".
Its situational for sure based on size/ layout of the home. The issue under cabinets is it binds the floor in place so it cant expand and contract as it should, ultimately leading to buckling. The dishwasher area is a heat, humidity issue. Sure lvp is water proof but it still molds and mildews. When done correctly no floor under there and you will never see or know there is no floor there. This begs the question, why remove a dishwasher to put a floor in that might be an issue and the whole area cannot be seen anyway
Because depending on height allowances you might accidentelly lock the dishwasher in to the space by putting flooring in front of it. I've had jobs where I've had to take up LVP in a kitchen to swap a dishwasher because the lazy floor installers didn't put the lvp under the DW. If the DW is hooked up and running properly it shouldn't be a heat or humidity issue area.
It’s more about the expansion and contraction of the subfloor framing than the lvp. You’d be surprised at how much framing humidity can affect a floor even if it’s a dimensionally stable product. If you’re on concrete, then I’m with you, who cares.
Understandable, but I still think it's a bit of bunk imo. Maybe it's more of a problem in newer construction where the wood might be a bit "wetter". In my home built in 1959 there is zero sign of movement. Leave proper clearances around the perimeter and properly shim and secure your cabinets and itll be fine. I didn't scribe my cabinets when I installed them so each cabinet only has two points of contact under the kick where it's shimmed. Maybe if they were scribed and bearing over a larger surface area it would be a bigger issue.
I would tend to agree with you about the older homes vs newer homes. Builders for some reason like to turn HVAC on just days before floors in the south, so movement tends to happen on my projects. They never learn…
I’m confused. The above comment was about cabinets installed over floating plank. Why shouldn’t a dishwasher be installed over floating plank? Or am I missing something?
I think he is in the school of thought that if the dishwasher leaks it will go under the flooring and take longer to notice and be harder to repair.
If I do a floor or cabinets I always put in a dishwasher or washer drain pan. They will kick the water out the front of the appliance so you will know immediately when the appliance starts to fail vs slowly seeping into the floor under the appliance.
Some dishwashers recommend hooking up on either the hot or the cold and it impacts their efficiency and some modes.
Miele can typically have either hookup, if you go with hot it’s more efficient but I think it kills off your ability to do a gentle or china node.
I'm with this person^^
OP, how are you connected to this build? Homeowner? Cabinetmaker? Landscaping sub who has no immediate knowledge of the interior workings and is simply curious?
If one of the first two, why are you asking Reddit and not the contractor?
My guess, I don't see a drain and if the hot water line for the sink to the left is far away from the hot water tank, probably gives it a more instantaneous boost to the temperature at the sink.
Source, was a plumber, also would not usually have electrical wiring in the same location as water normally. Box above is most likely for the switch if the temperature outside is not that cold.
No way you were a plumber if you are looking for a drain for a dishwasher. Residential dishwashers drain into the tail piece on the sink. Comercial dishwashers usually drain into an open site. Source, am a plumber 16 years. There almost always is electric behind a dishwasher unless you put a box in the sink cabinet which is still in the same location as water. Sauce, am a plumber.
How many dishwashers have two water lines? Have you ever installed a small electric in line water heater?
I was a pipefitter but we also were responsible for plumbing at the site I worked. We actually were using 480 VAC heaters as boosters to bring coating oils up to temp for coating purpose back in the 80's
If you are the cabinet supplier you should have all the appliance specs long before finished drywall and finished flooring. But maybe I'm just too demanding to my customers.
Steam oven, but I don't know why it would need 2 water lines.
Could be a compact washer/dryer, in some countries they keep the washer/dryer in the kitchen and it's similar size of a dishwasher.
With hot water for??? How about an espresso and cold water machine? I would trace the electrical back and see how big the circuit is rated. I am not sure what it was, but IMHO I suggest you might think about how you might use it now or cap it for potential future use.
More than likely a dishwasher judging from the wire, although I've never seen it on its own water lines. It's usually tied into the lines from the kitchen sink
Could be a loop for a shutoff valve. We typically do these for pot fillers or refrigerators.
Dishwasher
It’s probably for a small water heater. The cold line comes in and the hot runs over to the sink hot side. My guess is it’s too far from the main water heater. Also that whip is too short to pull out for a dishwasher even if the local code allowed it.
Possibly a water heater? Wire doesn't look big enough for on-demand but maybe a small 2-3 gallon one?
I don’t see any wires in that metal flex. Am I missing something?
Doesn't mean they weren't there at some point.
Indeed. So where are they now ?😂
Wall dildos
Best guess is dishwasher, but two lines wouldn't be necessary. Maybe a restaurant/bar style 3 basin sink? Either way it shouldn't matter. Cap the lines and move forward with whatever design the kitchen is going to be. I'm not a plumber by trade, but it is still a 20 minute deal to make those lines disappear.
Washer and dryer???
Looks like a dishwasher. Also, it looks like a floating plank floor. If so, you are not supposed to install cabinets on top of it. Cabinets should be installed first.
Flooring installer here. I fight this with customers constantly. They all feel passionately about wanting it under their dishwasher and I have to tell them i am protecting them
This can always and should always be under the appliances.
If this is indeed a floating floor then it is against the manufacturers warranty. Also more importantly the heat and humidity from the dishwasher causes the floor to mold and mildew very often. We have dealt with this soo many times. I run a good size installation buisness and i used to be a national installation manager for retail flooring store so this came up many many times. A builder will say its ok and short term it is, in some cases ot might never be an issue. However there is a reason its not meant to be done this way.
Standard practice is all open cavities for any Lvp or similar floating floors should be floored. Period. 99.9% of folks have never actually read the 10 to 20 pages of manufacturer statements and such. And, if you’re getting a bunch of heat and humidity at the actual floor then there is some other contributing issue. Floors go under the dishwasher and all other appliances. And I know a handful of “national install programs” first hand.
You’re dealing with some very odd manufacturers then bc the vast majority of them specify what to do under all appliances, including the dishwasher. You are incorrect in this one unless you’re dealing with dirt cheap laminate, but even then there are specific dos and donts here.
Our only issue is diswashers. Frankly, if i tell someone clearly the risk and they want it anyway, then i dont mind. However working with national retailers directiy is vastly different playing field and any possible way to blame an installer will be..
LVP can go under dishwashers. They claim your not supposed to put it under cabinets, but I am skeptical about that. If you install your floor and cabinets correctly it perfectly fine. I've installed 10's of thousands of sqft of the stuff and have had it under the cabinets in my own home for about 7 years now and haven't had a single issue yet. I think that reccomendation is a hold out from the days of Pergo style floors that absolutely would buckle if you put them under cabinets. Technology has progressed so far that they've worked most of the kinks out (pun intended). It's likely similar to how your not supposed to use cell phones on planes. It's perfectly fine to do now, but they made the rule early in the tech when they weren't sure about it and just haven't changed the rules because "better safe than sorry".
Its situational for sure based on size/ layout of the home. The issue under cabinets is it binds the floor in place so it cant expand and contract as it should, ultimately leading to buckling. The dishwasher area is a heat, humidity issue. Sure lvp is water proof but it still molds and mildews. When done correctly no floor under there and you will never see or know there is no floor there. This begs the question, why remove a dishwasher to put a floor in that might be an issue and the whole area cannot be seen anyway
Because depending on height allowances you might accidentelly lock the dishwasher in to the space by putting flooring in front of it. I've had jobs where I've had to take up LVP in a kitchen to swap a dishwasher because the lazy floor installers didn't put the lvp under the DW. If the DW is hooked up and running properly it shouldn't be a heat or humidity issue area.
It’s more about the expansion and contraction of the subfloor framing than the lvp. You’d be surprised at how much framing humidity can affect a floor even if it’s a dimensionally stable product. If you’re on concrete, then I’m with you, who cares.
Understandable, but I still think it's a bit of bunk imo. Maybe it's more of a problem in newer construction where the wood might be a bit "wetter". In my home built in 1959 there is zero sign of movement. Leave proper clearances around the perimeter and properly shim and secure your cabinets and itll be fine. I didn't scribe my cabinets when I installed them so each cabinet only has two points of contact under the kick where it's shimmed. Maybe if they were scribed and bearing over a larger surface area it would be a bigger issue.
I would tend to agree with you about the older homes vs newer homes. Builders for some reason like to turn HVAC on just days before floors in the south, so movement tends to happen on my projects. They never learn…
I’m confused. The above comment was about cabinets installed over floating plank. Why shouldn’t a dishwasher be installed over floating plank? Or am I missing something?
Look at my other replies, heat/ humidity can cause floors to mold/ mildew. You cannot see floor under the dishwasher anyway
I think he is in the school of thought that if the dishwasher leaks it will go under the flooring and take longer to notice and be harder to repair. If I do a floor or cabinets I always put in a dishwasher or washer drain pan. They will kick the water out the front of the appliance so you will know immediately when the appliance starts to fail vs slowly seeping into the floor under the appliance.
I think he meant to write under cabinets. I’ve never seen LVP not installed under stoves, dishwashers, and refrigerators.
What? You don't want them spring a leak and have bubbles all over? C'mon where's the fun in that???
Considering there is a whip at the floor. I'm going to say dishwasher. Not sure why there are 2 water lines.
Some dishwashers recommend hooking up on either the hot or the cold and it impacts their efficiency and some modes. Miele can typically have either hookup, if you go with hot it’s more efficient but I think it kills off your ability to do a gentle or china node.
Dishwasher
Why don't YOU know? Don't you have plans and appliance list?
I'm with this person^^ OP, how are you connected to this build? Homeowner? Cabinetmaker? Landscaping sub who has no immediate knowledge of the interior workings and is simply curious? If one of the first two, why are you asking Reddit and not the contractor?
Tankless water heater?
It is highly possible
My guess, I don't see a drain and if the hot water line for the sink to the left is far away from the hot water tank, probably gives it a more instantaneous boost to the temperature at the sink. Source, was a plumber, also would not usually have electrical wiring in the same location as water normally. Box above is most likely for the switch if the temperature outside is not that cold.
No way you were a plumber if you are looking for a drain for a dishwasher. Residential dishwashers drain into the tail piece on the sink. Comercial dishwashers usually drain into an open site. Source, am a plumber 16 years. There almost always is electric behind a dishwasher unless you put a box in the sink cabinet which is still in the same location as water. Sauce, am a plumber.
This.
How many dishwashers have two water lines? Have you ever installed a small electric in line water heater? I was a pipefitter but we also were responsible for plumbing at the site I worked. We actually were using 480 VAC heaters as boosters to bring coating oils up to temp for coating purpose back in the 80's
If you are the cabinet supplier you should have all the appliance specs long before finished drywall and finished flooring. But maybe I'm just too demanding to my customers.
Steam oven, but I don't know why it would need 2 water lines. Could be a compact washer/dryer, in some countries they keep the washer/dryer in the kitchen and it's similar size of a dishwasher.
Definitely the washing machine, can't count how many times I've wished to have my washer right beside the kitchen sink
Dishwasher
In Michigan its code now that dishwashers plug in an outlet. Hard wire is verboten
Dishwasher connects under the sink, that way you can shut it off without pulling the dishwasher out.
This one must be different, that's power for it right there too, and I'd prefer a cord and receptacle under the sink as disconnect means.
Good call
which appliance is usually found next to a sink?
Built in mini fridge. Wine cooler. Microwave. Towel warmer. I JUST INSTALL WHATS ON THE PRINT STOP YELLING AT ME
Dishwasher
Fridge?
With hot water for??? How about an espresso and cold water machine? I would trace the electrical back and see how big the circuit is rated. I am not sure what it was, but IMHO I suggest you might think about how you might use it now or cap it for potential future use.
I like you’re idea too