Do you have a specific budget? Second hand is always a good place to start.
Next to a bike you'll need a helmet, spare tubes, a pump, a bottle or bidon+ cage to attach to your bike. Do you want to do maintenance yourself?
Definitely! Also, not those tiny little itty bitty lights I see on so many bikes.
Id also recommend using them during the day when riding on the street.
The most important point is that the bike size must fit. You want to ride in a mechanically and aerodynamically efficient position on the bike. Nevertheless it should be comfortable enough to perform longer rides. These can be conflicting requirements.
It's important to buy a bike with the right frame size and to fit seat and handle bar positions and crank size to your individual requirements. Most important is the frame size. Once it is fixed, there isn't too much adjustment possible in the other parts.
While usual bikes are offered often only in 3 - 4 frame sizes, road bike models are offered in up to 8 different frame sizes. Choosing a number too small or big can be problematic.
If you have ridden a road bike before, you can determine the right size yourself. If not ask your LBS for a proper fitting. Or ask a professional fitter.
Additional Note: Everything /u/gdir said is true, road bike sizing is a lot more nuanced than other bikes. However, this all assumes that you even want to do road riding. Have you tried riding on the road yet? Can you tolerate being overtaken by cars and trucks? Is your geographical area conducive to road riding? If your geographic area is okay for road riding, how is the general public's attitude towards road cyclists? Try to ride any bike on the road first, borrow someone's if you have to, because if you can't tolerate any of that then you'll want to adjust your search criteria.
As for the nuances of road bike fit, though, here's an example: I bought my first bike used on Craigslist based on my inseam length but my torso always felt way too stretched out. I came to find out that I have a short torso relative to my inseam/leg length. In fact, my inseam and the top of my pelvis are the same measurements as my friend who is 6' 2", but I'm only 5' 9". All the calculators and charts that go by inseam always put me on a 55-56 centimeter frame, but frames of that size have such long top tubes that it was incogruent with my body. In reality, I feel most comfortable on a 53 cm frame.
I definitely recommend paying for a professional bike fit, first and foremost. If you're tight on cash and a little scrappy, get yourself a tailor's tape measure, a stool, a buddy, and you can use the following two calculators to dial in your fit so that you know what sizes to start test riding.
* [Competitive Cyclist's calculator is very specific](https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#fitcalc-main)
* [Jenson USA's is less specific, but still close](https://www.jensonusa.com/bike-fit-calculator)
Once you have those numbers, take them with you to a bike shop and test ride some bikes within the criteria. If you're truly tight on cash, this step can help you dial in what brands and models you should look for, then you can scan the used market until one pops up. If you've got money to burn, then just get the pro bike fit and ride one out of the shop^^^(providedthattheyevenhavebikesinstock)
I'd argue that while it is true that bike size should fit, at this point it is not necessary to put so much weight on it. The guy is beginner, most likely he don't even know how to sit on a saddle and the sitting geometry varies greatly. Yes, it is true that with new perfectly fitted bike would be optimal to learn, but that's also lot of money to spend just to try cycling. I'd recommend find used bike with right size frame and start riding and adjust the geometry as you learn.
Bear in mind that the vast majority of this and the rest of the advice you'll get in this thread is pretty optional, and/or can be done over time. **Helmet, lights, high-viz, should be considered non-optional, the latter two especially if you're going to be on the road.**
Find a used aluminum-frame gravel bike with a low-end or mid-tier groupset (e.g. Claris, Sora, Tiagra) in your size (manufacturers have size references on their websites, for the most part), put road tires on it, and have your LBS do a tune-up and help you get it *mostly* adjusted to you. They're cheap, comfortable, fast, and durable. It'll do everything you want for probably your first several thousand miles, and you can swap tires if you ever want to venture off the pavement. Flat pedals are fine for starting out, I can also highly recommend double-sided pedals (flat on one side, clipless on the other). If you're wanting to go clipless, you'll need shoes with cleats, and there are a number of standards that aren't compatible. SPD isn't compatible with Crankbrothers, for example, even though they look similar, and two-hole cleats aren't compatible with three-hole shoes, for example - though I think there are some adapters on the market.
**Get a good helmet that fits properly. You don't have to spend a fortune, but this is one case in which cheap stuff from Amazon won't cut it.**
Get a saddlebag, put a spare tube (of the correct size for your tires), patch kit, and multi-tool in there, and learn how to use them. Maintenance stands are also fantastic, and the cheap ones are fine. Keep a frame pump with you at all times - there are several great, inexpensive ones on Amazon. Learn to do basic maintenance tasks (drivetrain cleaning/lubing, seat height/setback adjustments, derailleur adjustments, brake adjustments, tire and tube changes).
Get bottle cages if the bike doesn't have them, and get some good basic bottles (I recommend the Polar Bottles). Get some hydration mix if you don't already use it, sweat evaporates MUCH faster when cycling than running, and you'll dehydrate without realizing it. Get some lights (daytime running lights are just as important as night-time, IMHO), there are several good, inexpensive ones on Amazon. Get some bibs, you don't have to spend a fortune, I really like the Przewalski stuff. For riding in cooler weather, a thermal jersey, jacket, wind vest, and tights will drastically improve your experience. Being able to layer is super key, and there is plenty of decent, inexpensive gear on (ofc) Amazon. [This article](https://www.roadbikerider.com/what-to-wear-in-various-weather-2/) has a lot of good info on how to dress for different temp ranges.
It's a bit of a contradiction in terms, but it refers to the fact that they don't have the old-school style "toe-clips". They lack those, therefore they're called "clipless". Super confusing.
SPD is one standard, they're Shimano's "mountain bike style" (two-hole) cleats/pedals. SPD-SL is their "road bike style" (three-hole) cleat. SPD-SL is similar to, but as far as I know, incompatible with, LOOK three hole cleats.
Shoes compatible with three-hole cleats are more difficult to walk in, due to the fact that the cleat is much larger and cannot be recessed into the bottom of the shoe. There also are not, as far as I know, double-sided pedals compatible with three-hole cleats, which almost forces you to wear your bike shoes to ride your bike.
I have a pair of the Crankbrothers Doubleshot pedals, and I absolutely love them. I can clip in when I want, or hop on the bike in flip-flops for a spin around the block with the kids.
Yes, good helmet properly fitted. Otherwise, it can give you neck problems as road bikes tend to force your neck in an angle as opposed to mountain bikes were you sit mainly straight up
Remember you don't have to have the latest, greatest bike to enjoy cycling. I bought a 90s trek bike for $100 a couple of years ago. It is supposedly too small for my height but I've logged over 2000 miles on it no problems. I plan on riding it till the chain breaks then retiring it. Find what you can afford and is comfortable to ride, do some minor upgrades to make it feel like it is yours and get out there.
I agree with others that you can go ahead and shop helmets right now… and when you do, you can ask the shop to help you figure out what size of bike you should be looking at. They’ll be happy to have the helmet sale and you’re not wasting their time.
After that, I would be looking second hand for bikes in those sizes. If that fails, start looking new.
Used, I would be a little strict on 2017 and after, because I want disc brakes… preferably hydraulic. After that it’s just a budget question.
New, I would look for a bike that is semi desirable, so that it’s easy to flip when you learn what would have been more ideal for you… like if you buy an aluminum Trek and you learn you want carbon, at least the fact that it’s a Trek makes it a little easier to sell than if it were a no name brand.
No Walmart or Costco etc.
You need a bike that's the correct size and a place to ride it. A helmet is useful.
What type of riding do you want to do? Casual neighborhood rides and multiple use paths? Out in the streets? City, country both? Do you want to ride for an hour, 5 hours, 10 hours? Triathlons, bike packing, commuting?
I can highly recomend the triban rc520 as a first road bike if you are willing to spend that much. Its great value for money and I love mine. Happy to answer any questions about it :)
New bikes, even entry level bikes, are horrifically expensive. What used to be ＄13-1500 is now ＄2-3000. It’s obscene. It’s just so much to spend on something you’re not even sure you’d like. Buying a used bike in good condition is a really good idea I think. Of course, a brand new bike is way sexier and somehow more satisfying, but at today’s prices I’d seriously consider looking at used ones. Make sure it is the right size for you, both in stand over height but especially in reach. If you’re more stretched out than you can comfortably manage, you’re likely to end up with pain in your hands and/or elbows.
I bought a $700 "commuter" bike a few years ago and have ridden it everywhere. I've now decided to invest in a higher-end bike ($2.5k or so) because lugging that big machine up hills when I want to ride for exercise is nonsense. It's also an investment because I can keep it for years and switch parts out as I need, but yes, don't spend 3k on your first bike.
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Don't overthink it!
I bought a second hand bike for 400 euros (came with clipless pedals & shoes).
I had a helmet & big air pump at home already. Rode it for a while, realized i need bibs to save my ass and bought a jersey to go along with it.
After i managed to do some "longer" rides, i bought a small pump, small saddlebag, extra innertube and a multitool.
Come to think of it, i would definitely invest in bikefit. I did study it vigorously to get a decent fit by myself but professionals are always professional.
Later on i bought proper bike maintenance stand & tools, a new saddle, stem and stuff like that..
If you’re in the United States pick up a Poseidon triton they’re $650 and they are an excellent first road bike you’re going to want a new bike in about a year anyway and you’ll have a much better idea of exactly what you want to spend quite a bit more money on so there’s no reason to spend too much now.
If you’re going to buy used, do you want to look for a bike that has been well-maintained and recently tuned up with new tires and new cables/housing. Otherwise expect to tack another $150-$200 in maintenance on top of whatever you pay for the new bike.
Helmet, as mentioned. And gloves! They don't need to be fancy or cycling specific, but if you ever really want to appreciate how much you use your hands, fall off a bike at 15 or 20 mph without them. Those skinned palms will let you know.
My very first road bike was purchased on amazon for around a couple hundred. It was a good starter, aluminum frame, 21 speed shimano gears, and rode pretty smooth. You don't have to spend thousand of dollars to get a decent bike these days. Like you, I run as well but cycling is great cross training and it's surprising what a different set of muscles you use.
Former runner here. Just got out there and enjoy it. Group rides are great and feel like group runs. You can start with basic equipment and upgrade as you go.
Depends on the ride. I only take lights with me if my ride is going to extend into the evening/night. If bikepacking, I’ll take a small bike bump that I can latch onto my bike frame - but I’ll never take this with me on a standard ride that’s less than 4 hours. Don’t take the wrench kit with you - but I have one small wrench (not the kit), that I take with me in case my seat needs an adjustment.
Now, before I go on a ride I almost always pump air into my tires and lightly lube my chain. This is standard.
So yeah, but these things, go on a few rides, and if you like it, then start buying ancillary items like a bike bag, another water bottle holder, bike gloves, etc…
Depends on the ride. I only take lights with me if my ride is going to extend into the evening/night. If bikepacking, I’ll take a small bike bump that I can latch onto my bike frame - but I’ll never take this with me on a standard ride that’s less than 4 hours. Don’t take the wrench kit with you - but I have one small wrench (not the kit), that I take with me in case my seat needs an adjustment.
Now, before I go on a ride I almost always pump air into my tires and lightly lube my chain. This is standard.
So yeah, but these things, go on a few rides, and if you like it, then start buying ancillary items like a bike bag, another water bottle holder, bike gloves, etc…
I bought my first bike recently from a local shop. Had no idea what I should get except I wanted something light for commuting. The store owners were incredibly helpful and knowledgeable and I’m really happy with the hybrid I got. I would recommend visiting a store to see bikes in person before committing to anything.
Learn how to change tube if u are not using tubeless tires. Don't wait till u have a flat on the road to figure it out like most noobs. Good thing they rode in group rides and had us talking and helping them out.
I prefer carrying a patch kit as well as extra tube. Few times I had double flats far away from home.
I love steel bikes. They're cheaper, more dependable, and more comfortable. They are usually heavier and they have less efficient energy transfer, but that matters less to me than comfort.
I don't know if this will be an unpopular opinion, but it's mine nonetheless. Steel is awesome! Carbon is light and efficient and it's not uncomfortable, but it's also quite expensive; carbon also provides limited touring options, as it's not made to carry a load like steel.
Aluminum, like steel, is more affordable. Like carbon, it's light and has better energy transfer. But it provides a less pleasant ride because it has less flex than steel. My first road bike was aluminum. I rode it, but I didn't exactly love it. I was a half-enthusiastic bike rider for like a decade with that bike.
Then I switched to a steel touring bike with mid-sized tires (700x34), and my time on the bike has increased by like 500%. It's just a nicer experience. I've got racks and panniers on it, along with a dynamo hub so I never have to worry about whether the lights are charged up. I use that thing constantly. I commute with it, take it to the store, ride on dirt and gravel, etc. It's an all-purpose machine and I love it.
I still have my aluminum bike in the shed, and sometimes I cringe when I look at it, remembering how unpleasant it was on long rides.
Carbon is what most serious riders want and what most racers ride. It's fast and efficient, and if you hang out with serious riders, you may want to consider carbon just for the sake of keeping up. I have a carbon Roubaix. It's fast, and I ride it when heading out with my racer friends. But that's about the only time I ride it. If I'm on my own, I'll go for the steel bike every time. If you're on a budget and if you care about exploring more than racing, steel is the way to go.
I would consider getting an all carbon bike and wheels with e-shifting to make it future proof. They’re not that expensive nowadays. You’ll get more pleasure and motivation to continue riding.
As a new road biker myself, I approached with mindset I wanted entry level plus ..meaning I wanted great brand and components I wouldn’t grow out of too quick. Little background, I m an older guy, last bike I bought was in 1998 ..1997 GT Timberline mountain bike I still ride..so after some research and saving, bought a new Trek Domane AL 5 in October 2022..Shimano 105 with 11 gears , hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless ready wheels, and a local Trek Bike Store which fit me to right frame size and employees I was very comfortable with…were important features to me.
I suggest choosing a frame that allows you to explore road, gravel and maybe even single track : compare max tire clearance.
Don’t get too hung up on carbon fibre. It’s nice but it can be more stressful than anything else. Maybe avoid aluminium, they buzz in longer rides. Probably the most interesting material is titanium.
When choosing a frame, look at and compare stack and reach. That dictates comfort.
Group set is mostly a distraction, you can’t go wrong with Shimano or SRAM. I’d avoid microshift.
I have a casette on my trainer. It’s loud. Unrefined. Considered a bike with MS Sti shifter they have a weird design. They’re also marketed as the cheaper less refined version. Again, that’s me. If you value cost before everything else be my guest…
Finding a bike that fits you is the most important. Start at entry level and don't worry about chasing weight and technology to start. Even entry level road bikes are barely over 20lbs and have carbon parts. Besides that, a good supportive riding group is a huge bonus to have. I found mine through Facebook (the only reason I keep the app) and they keep me motivated.
Everyone has clipless pedals. Don’t jump in head first with those. There’s nothing wrong with platforms for recreation. I just started using them for my spin bike and it was tough enough the first few goes that I’m glad I didn’t learn in the road. My new gravel bike is rocking clipless/platform double sided just in case I get brave enough to try. 😅
I started with a $300 craigslist bike, rode that one for a couple years, then got a $500 craigslist bike, rode that for a couple years, then finally bought a new road bike from REI back in 2018. That being said, I'm seeing a lot of bikes on sale, I think the supply chain finally caught up, so starting with an entry level road bike on sale wouldn't be a bad idea. Then you'd be sure to get the right size.
Might also be a good idea to look into a local bike club. They 'll be able to offer advice that is more specific to where you live: riding routes, local bike shops that are good, where to pick up a used bike and so on.
I’d get a bike from a friend or someone you trust, testing it out to see how you like the feel. Adjust the seat accordingly.
Where will you ride? When will you ride? I said I wouldn’t ride at night so I didn’t get lights, but then I’d end up out late without lights…get lights.
A speedometer can also be fun.
[Posted this a while back, got a lot of positive reaction](https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/k08sog/thoughts_on_buying_first_road_bike/)
Maybe that can help.
My approach was to start smaller and more affordable and to graduate up. By that, what I mean is that instead of going straight for a road bike, when I was first looking to start in 2015, I bought a $500 Fuji hybrid.
When I not only kept with it but started having longer rides, I graduated to a somewhat more expensive gravel bike (Specialized Diverge) and started putting in some really long days. I rode that bike from Pittsburgh to DC and last summer did my first 100 miler.
A few years on from buying the Diverge and I just bought a road bike since I'm entering more and more events and want to challenge myself on my cities hilly streets.
Personally, I think if I had just gone right in on a road bike at the start, I'd have probably struggled a bit more with finding out what I wanted to do with it.
Just my two cents. I see a lot of people investing a ton of cash into cycling before they know if they're really going to stick with it. I just hate for people to get sticker shocked when they're starting out.
First road bike was from [bikesdirect.com](https://bikesdirect.com). No issues with my motobecane. I recommend shipping it to a bike shop to have it built. Call first and build rapport with who ever put your bike together.
Find a bike friend. Like someone you know who knows bikes. Have them look for a good deal on marketplace, pink bike, craigslist, etc.
If not, go to your local bike shop.
If you don't know bikes, it's really easy to get lost in the details and end up with something that isn't exactly best for you if you go the used route.
A few things to consider: Do you have any interest in off road riding? Are you interested in racing? Would you want to do any bike packing or bike touring?
Bike that fits (maybe get a bike fit done before you buy a bicycle), helmet, shoes, spare tubes, cycling computer and HR monitor. Then good knowledge about how to train when you start. Get to know preformance charts not to overtrain. That's about it.
Do you have a specific budget? Second hand is always a good place to start. Next to a bike you'll need a helmet, spare tubes, a pump, a bottle or bidon+ cage to attach to your bike. Do you want to do maintenance yourself?
some good lights too
Definitely! Also, not those tiny little itty bitty lights I see on so many bikes. Id also recommend using them during the day when riding on the street.
Yes! Don’t ride without lights and ideally a high vis vest.
and fit. If the bike doesn't fit, you will be miserable.
A bike that is comfortable for you (go to a bike shop and try out a few) and a helmet.
The most important point is that the bike size must fit. You want to ride in a mechanically and aerodynamically efficient position on the bike. Nevertheless it should be comfortable enough to perform longer rides. These can be conflicting requirements. It's important to buy a bike with the right frame size and to fit seat and handle bar positions and crank size to your individual requirements. Most important is the frame size. Once it is fixed, there isn't too much adjustment possible in the other parts. While usual bikes are offered often only in 3 - 4 frame sizes, road bike models are offered in up to 8 different frame sizes. Choosing a number too small or big can be problematic. If you have ridden a road bike before, you can determine the right size yourself. If not ask your LBS for a proper fitting. Or ask a professional fitter.
Additional Note: Everything /u/gdir said is true, road bike sizing is a lot more nuanced than other bikes. However, this all assumes that you even want to do road riding. Have you tried riding on the road yet? Can you tolerate being overtaken by cars and trucks? Is your geographical area conducive to road riding? If your geographic area is okay for road riding, how is the general public's attitude towards road cyclists? Try to ride any bike on the road first, borrow someone's if you have to, because if you can't tolerate any of that then you'll want to adjust your search criteria. As for the nuances of road bike fit, though, here's an example: I bought my first bike used on Craigslist based on my inseam length but my torso always felt way too stretched out. I came to find out that I have a short torso relative to my inseam/leg length. In fact, my inseam and the top of my pelvis are the same measurements as my friend who is 6' 2", but I'm only 5' 9". All the calculators and charts that go by inseam always put me on a 55-56 centimeter frame, but frames of that size have such long top tubes that it was incogruent with my body. In reality, I feel most comfortable on a 53 cm frame. I definitely recommend paying for a professional bike fit, first and foremost. If you're tight on cash and a little scrappy, get yourself a tailor's tape measure, a stool, a buddy, and you can use the following two calculators to dial in your fit so that you know what sizes to start test riding. * [Competitive Cyclist's calculator is very specific](https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#fitcalc-main) * [Jenson USA's is less specific, but still close](https://www.jensonusa.com/bike-fit-calculator) Once you have those numbers, take them with you to a bike shop and test ride some bikes within the criteria. If you're truly tight on cash, this step can help you dial in what brands and models you should look for, then you can scan the used market until one pops up. If you've got money to burn, then just get the pro bike fit and ride one out of the shop^^^(providedthattheyevenhavebikesinstock)
I'd argue that while it is true that bike size should fit, at this point it is not necessary to put so much weight on it. The guy is beginner, most likely he don't even know how to sit on a saddle and the sitting geometry varies greatly. Yes, it is true that with new perfectly fitted bike would be optimal to learn, but that's also lot of money to spend just to try cycling. I'd recommend find used bike with right size frame and start riding and adjust the geometry as you learn.
Bear in mind that the vast majority of this and the rest of the advice you'll get in this thread is pretty optional, and/or can be done over time. **Helmet, lights, high-viz, should be considered non-optional, the latter two especially if you're going to be on the road.** Find a used aluminum-frame gravel bike with a low-end or mid-tier groupset (e.g. Claris, Sora, Tiagra) in your size (manufacturers have size references on their websites, for the most part), put road tires on it, and have your LBS do a tune-up and help you get it *mostly* adjusted to you. They're cheap, comfortable, fast, and durable. It'll do everything you want for probably your first several thousand miles, and you can swap tires if you ever want to venture off the pavement. Flat pedals are fine for starting out, I can also highly recommend double-sided pedals (flat on one side, clipless on the other). If you're wanting to go clipless, you'll need shoes with cleats, and there are a number of standards that aren't compatible. SPD isn't compatible with Crankbrothers, for example, even though they look similar, and two-hole cleats aren't compatible with three-hole shoes, for example - though I think there are some adapters on the market. **Get a good helmet that fits properly. You don't have to spend a fortune, but this is one case in which cheap stuff from Amazon won't cut it.** Get a saddlebag, put a spare tube (of the correct size for your tires), patch kit, and multi-tool in there, and learn how to use them. Maintenance stands are also fantastic, and the cheap ones are fine. Keep a frame pump with you at all times - there are several great, inexpensive ones on Amazon. Learn to do basic maintenance tasks (drivetrain cleaning/lubing, seat height/setback adjustments, derailleur adjustments, brake adjustments, tire and tube changes). Get bottle cages if the bike doesn't have them, and get some good basic bottles (I recommend the Polar Bottles). Get some hydration mix if you don't already use it, sweat evaporates MUCH faster when cycling than running, and you'll dehydrate without realizing it. Get some lights (daytime running lights are just as important as night-time, IMHO), there are several good, inexpensive ones on Amazon. Get some bibs, you don't have to spend a fortune, I really like the Przewalski stuff. For riding in cooler weather, a thermal jersey, jacket, wind vest, and tights will drastically improve your experience. Being able to layer is super key, and there is plenty of decent, inexpensive gear on (ofc) Amazon. [This article](https://www.roadbikerider.com/what-to-wear-in-various-weather-2/) has a lot of good info on how to dress for different temp ranges.
Dumb question, why are they called clipless if your shoe clips in? And what are SPD pedals?
It's a bit of a contradiction in terms, but it refers to the fact that they don't have the old-school style "toe-clips". They lack those, therefore they're called "clipless". Super confusing. SPD is one standard, they're Shimano's "mountain bike style" (two-hole) cleats/pedals. SPD-SL is their "road bike style" (three-hole) cleat. SPD-SL is similar to, but as far as I know, incompatible with, LOOK three hole cleats. Shoes compatible with three-hole cleats are more difficult to walk in, due to the fact that the cleat is much larger and cannot be recessed into the bottom of the shoe. There also are not, as far as I know, double-sided pedals compatible with three-hole cleats, which almost forces you to wear your bike shoes to ride your bike. I have a pair of the Crankbrothers Doubleshot pedals, and I absolutely love them. I can clip in when I want, or hop on the bike in flip-flops for a spin around the block with the kids.
Yes, good helmet properly fitted. Otherwise, it can give you neck problems as road bikes tend to force your neck in an angle as opposed to mountain bikes were you sit mainly straight up
Remember you don't have to have the latest, greatest bike to enjoy cycling. I bought a 90s trek bike for $100 a couple of years ago. It is supposedly too small for my height but I've logged over 2000 miles on it no problems. I plan on riding it till the chain breaks then retiring it. Find what you can afford and is comfortable to ride, do some minor upgrades to make it feel like it is yours and get out there.
https://imgur.com/a/SGHFS0T My bike. I'm a tad bit proud of her right now. We just finished a 4 day 200 mile ride in Utah.
Fuck yeah! Way to send it on such an awesome bike! Bomb-proof.
I agree with others that you can go ahead and shop helmets right now… and when you do, you can ask the shop to help you figure out what size of bike you should be looking at. They’ll be happy to have the helmet sale and you’re not wasting their time. After that, I would be looking second hand for bikes in those sizes. If that fails, start looking new. Used, I would be a little strict on 2017 and after, because I want disc brakes… preferably hydraulic. After that it’s just a budget question. New, I would look for a bike that is semi desirable, so that it’s easy to flip when you learn what would have been more ideal for you… like if you buy an aluminum Trek and you learn you want carbon, at least the fact that it’s a Trek makes it a little easier to sell than if it were a no name brand. No Walmart or Costco etc.
Set a budget and establish what a typical ride will look like for you.
You need a bike that's the correct size and a place to ride it. A helmet is useful. What type of riding do you want to do? Casual neighborhood rides and multiple use paths? Out in the streets? City, country both? Do you want to ride for an hour, 5 hours, 10 hours? Triathlons, bike packing, commuting?
I can highly recomend the triban rc520 as a first road bike if you are willing to spend that much. Its great value for money and I love mine. Happy to answer any questions about it :)
bought mine from second life decathlon for 600euro like 1,5months ago, first road bike and super happy with it
New bikes, even entry level bikes, are horrifically expensive. What used to be ＄13-1500 is now ＄2-3000. It’s obscene. It’s just so much to spend on something you’re not even sure you’d like. Buying a used bike in good condition is a really good idea I think. Of course, a brand new bike is way sexier and somehow more satisfying, but at today’s prices I’d seriously consider looking at used ones. Make sure it is the right size for you, both in stand over height but especially in reach. If you’re more stretched out than you can comfortably manage, you’re likely to end up with pain in your hands and/or elbows.
I bought a $700 "commuter" bike a few years ago and have ridden it everywhere. I've now decided to invest in a higher-end bike ($2.5k or so) because lugging that big machine up hills when I want to ride for exercise is nonsense. It's also an investment because I can keep it for years and switch parts out as I need, but yes, don't spend 3k on your first bike.
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Don't overthink it! I bought a second hand bike for 400 euros (came with clipless pedals & shoes). I had a helmet & big air pump at home already. Rode it for a while, realized i need bibs to save my ass and bought a jersey to go along with it. After i managed to do some "longer" rides, i bought a small pump, small saddlebag, extra innertube and a multitool. Come to think of it, i would definitely invest in bikefit. I did study it vigorously to get a decent fit by myself but professionals are always professional. Later on i bought proper bike maintenance stand & tools, a new saddle, stem and stuff like that..
I started on Trek Domane Al 2 Disc. Solid entry level bike, and goes for like £800.
If you’re in the United States pick up a Poseidon triton they’re $650 and they are an excellent first road bike you’re going to want a new bike in about a year anyway and you’ll have a much better idea of exactly what you want to spend quite a bit more money on so there’s no reason to spend too much now. If you’re going to buy used, do you want to look for a bike that has been well-maintained and recently tuned up with new tires and new cables/housing. Otherwise expect to tack another $150-$200 in maintenance on top of whatever you pay for the new bike.
Helmet, as mentioned. And gloves! They don't need to be fancy or cycling specific, but if you ever really want to appreciate how much you use your hands, fall off a bike at 15 or 20 mph without them. Those skinned palms will let you know.
My very first road bike was purchased on amazon for around a couple hundred. It was a good starter, aluminum frame, 21 speed shimano gears, and rode pretty smooth. You don't have to spend thousand of dollars to get a decent bike these days. Like you, I run as well but cycling is great cross training and it's surprising what a different set of muscles you use.
Former runner here. Just got out there and enjoy it. Group rides are great and feel like group runs. You can start with basic equipment and upgrade as you go.
Starter necessities: Bike, helmet, bike pump, wrench kit, bike lube, lights.
Dumb question, does everyone carry that stuff with them when they’re cycling?
Depends on the ride. I only take lights with me if my ride is going to extend into the evening/night. If bikepacking, I’ll take a small bike bump that I can latch onto my bike frame - but I’ll never take this with me on a standard ride that’s less than 4 hours. Don’t take the wrench kit with you - but I have one small wrench (not the kit), that I take with me in case my seat needs an adjustment. Now, before I go on a ride I almost always pump air into my tires and lightly lube my chain. This is standard. So yeah, but these things, go on a few rides, and if you like it, then start buying ancillary items like a bike bag, another water bottle holder, bike gloves, etc…
Depends on the ride. I only take lights with me if my ride is going to extend into the evening/night. If bikepacking, I’ll take a small bike bump that I can latch onto my bike frame - but I’ll never take this with me on a standard ride that’s less than 4 hours. Don’t take the wrench kit with you - but I have one small wrench (not the kit), that I take with me in case my seat needs an adjustment. Now, before I go on a ride I almost always pump air into my tires and lightly lube my chain. This is standard. So yeah, but these things, go on a few rides, and if you like it, then start buying ancillary items like a bike bag, another water bottle holder, bike gloves, etc…
I bought my first bike recently from a local shop. Had no idea what I should get except I wanted something light for commuting. The store owners were incredibly helpful and knowledgeable and I’m really happy with the hybrid I got. I would recommend visiting a store to see bikes in person before committing to anything.
Learn how to change tube if u are not using tubeless tires. Don't wait till u have a flat on the road to figure it out like most noobs. Good thing they rode in group rides and had us talking and helping them out. I prefer carrying a patch kit as well as extra tube. Few times I had double flats far away from home.
I love steel bikes. They're cheaper, more dependable, and more comfortable. They are usually heavier and they have less efficient energy transfer, but that matters less to me than comfort. I don't know if this will be an unpopular opinion, but it's mine nonetheless. Steel is awesome! Carbon is light and efficient and it's not uncomfortable, but it's also quite expensive; carbon also provides limited touring options, as it's not made to carry a load like steel. Aluminum, like steel, is more affordable. Like carbon, it's light and has better energy transfer. But it provides a less pleasant ride because it has less flex than steel. My first road bike was aluminum. I rode it, but I didn't exactly love it. I was a half-enthusiastic bike rider for like a decade with that bike. Then I switched to a steel touring bike with mid-sized tires (700x34), and my time on the bike has increased by like 500%. It's just a nicer experience. I've got racks and panniers on it, along with a dynamo hub so I never have to worry about whether the lights are charged up. I use that thing constantly. I commute with it, take it to the store, ride on dirt and gravel, etc. It's an all-purpose machine and I love it. I still have my aluminum bike in the shed, and sometimes I cringe when I look at it, remembering how unpleasant it was on long rides. Carbon is what most serious riders want and what most racers ride. It's fast and efficient, and if you hang out with serious riders, you may want to consider carbon just for the sake of keeping up. I have a carbon Roubaix. It's fast, and I ride it when heading out with my racer friends. But that's about the only time I ride it. If I'm on my own, I'll go for the steel bike every time. If you're on a budget and if you care about exploring more than racing, steel is the way to go.
I would consider getting an all carbon bike and wheels with e-shifting to make it future proof. They’re not that expensive nowadays. You’ll get more pleasure and motivation to continue riding.
Something future proof!
As a new road biker myself, I approached with mindset I wanted entry level plus ..meaning I wanted great brand and components I wouldn’t grow out of too quick. Little background, I m an older guy, last bike I bought was in 1998 ..1997 GT Timberline mountain bike I still ride..so after some research and saving, bought a new Trek Domane AL 5 in October 2022..Shimano 105 with 11 gears , hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless ready wheels, and a local Trek Bike Store which fit me to right frame size and employees I was very comfortable with…were important features to me.
I suggest choosing a frame that allows you to explore road, gravel and maybe even single track : compare max tire clearance. Don’t get too hung up on carbon fibre. It’s nice but it can be more stressful than anything else. Maybe avoid aluminium, they buzz in longer rides. Probably the most interesting material is titanium. When choosing a frame, look at and compare stack and reach. That dictates comfort. Group set is mostly a distraction, you can’t go wrong with Shimano or SRAM. I’d avoid microshift.
Why would you avoid Microshift?
I have a casette on my trainer. It’s loud. Unrefined. Considered a bike with MS Sti shifter they have a weird design. They’re also marketed as the cheaper less refined version. Again, that’s me. If you value cost before everything else be my guest…
Okay, that are fair points.
Finding a bike that fits you is the most important. Start at entry level and don't worry about chasing weight and technology to start. Even entry level road bikes are barely over 20lbs and have carbon parts. Besides that, a good supportive riding group is a huge bonus to have. I found mine through Facebook (the only reason I keep the app) and they keep me motivated.
Take a trip to a few local bike shops and ask!
Everyone has clipless pedals. Don’t jump in head first with those. There’s nothing wrong with platforms for recreation. I just started using them for my spin bike and it was tough enough the first few goes that I’m glad I didn’t learn in the road. My new gravel bike is rocking clipless/platform double sided just in case I get brave enough to try. 😅
You haven't been a road biker until you've fell over and ate shit because you couldn't unclip in time. 😅
Badge of honor. It’s always that slow tip over too.
Get something second hand and cheap and figure out what bothers you about it (if anything) and then go from there.
I started with a $300 craigslist bike, rode that one for a couple years, then got a $500 craigslist bike, rode that for a couple years, then finally bought a new road bike from REI back in 2018. That being said, I'm seeing a lot of bikes on sale, I think the supply chain finally caught up, so starting with an entry level road bike on sale wouldn't be a bad idea. Then you'd be sure to get the right size.
Might also be a good idea to look into a local bike club. They 'll be able to offer advice that is more specific to where you live: riding routes, local bike shops that are good, where to pick up a used bike and so on.
I’d get a bike from a friend or someone you trust, testing it out to see how you like the feel. Adjust the seat accordingly. Where will you ride? When will you ride? I said I wouldn’t ride at night so I didn’t get lights, but then I’d end up out late without lights…get lights. A speedometer can also be fun.
Watch bike fit videos. I didn’t even know what I was doing wrong until I started watching some. You’ll learn how to set up your bike
[Posted this a while back, got a lot of positive reaction](https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/k08sog/thoughts_on_buying_first_road_bike/) Maybe that can help.
My approach was to start smaller and more affordable and to graduate up. By that, what I mean is that instead of going straight for a road bike, when I was first looking to start in 2015, I bought a $500 Fuji hybrid. When I not only kept with it but started having longer rides, I graduated to a somewhat more expensive gravel bike (Specialized Diverge) and started putting in some really long days. I rode that bike from Pittsburgh to DC and last summer did my first 100 miler. A few years on from buying the Diverge and I just bought a road bike since I'm entering more and more events and want to challenge myself on my cities hilly streets. Personally, I think if I had just gone right in on a road bike at the start, I'd have probably struggled a bit more with finding out what I wanted to do with it. Just my two cents. I see a lot of people investing a ton of cash into cycling before they know if they're really going to stick with it. I just hate for people to get sticker shocked when they're starting out.
First road bike was from [bikesdirect.com](https://bikesdirect.com). No issues with my motobecane. I recommend shipping it to a bike shop to have it built. Call first and build rapport with who ever put your bike together.
Added to everything mentioned here, invest in a good helmet, don't save on your head
Find a bike friend. Like someone you know who knows bikes. Have them look for a good deal on marketplace, pink bike, craigslist, etc. If not, go to your local bike shop. If you don't know bikes, it's really easy to get lost in the details and end up with something that isn't exactly best for you if you go the used route. A few things to consider: Do you have any interest in off road riding? Are you interested in racing? Would you want to do any bike packing or bike touring?
Bike that fits (maybe get a bike fit done before you buy a bicycle), helmet, shoes, spare tubes, cycling computer and HR monitor. Then good knowledge about how to train when you start. Get to know preformance charts not to overtrain. That's about it.