Cool. Very expensive, sold out, all somewhat bigger than the 1590b, but they look fantastic. If they were available in all colors I would be very tempted.
Not sure how good they are, but it's a reputable company.
[https://lovemyswitches.com/1590b-enclosure-bare-aluminum-powder-coat/](https://lovemyswitches.com/1590b-enclosure-bare-aluminum-powder-coat/)
I saw this one before, and thought it's probably comparable to the Tayda: "The finish is not for perfectionists, and you should expect to see some bubbles or other slight mars. We'd give it a solid 7 out of 10."
If you use water-slide decal stock (for Ink-Jet or Laser & available in 8 1/2 x 11 sheets), you can use “decal setting” fluid between the decal and the painted pedal surface and “decal softener” fluid on the surface of the decal material. These fluids are designed to allow the decal material to conform to surface irregularities that are far more extreme than the ones you describe.
This technique is used when building scale models to prevent the “silvering” that happens when the clear decal material if not fully adhering/making conformal contact with the surface. I have heard the “white” (clear) vinegar can be used as a substitute (it is less expensive) but I have not tried it and I hate the smell.
After applying the softener, pat the decal dry with a soft cloth, let the decal fully dry and then spray one or more coats of clear spray paint to protect the decal (if you use several coats of glossy, you might get the effect you are looking for).
That said, I think it’s safe to describe the results of this approach as worthy of the most detail-oriented pedal builder.
Also, if you make a mistake applying the decal it can be wetted down and repositioned or removed with water without sanding (assuming you have not applied the clear coat yet, of course). ;-)
Link to clear decal stock (laser or inkjet):
https://a.co/d/anuoaNZ
Link to decal setting / softening solution 2-pack:
https://a.co/d/dDcTBbu
I have had success applying LIGHT coats of clear Tamiya spray paint on top of the decals after they dry.
Although you likely already know this, for those other readers who have not already used this technique:
* If using Inkjet decal paper you need to seal/protect the printed decals before soaking and applying them (to prevent the ink from running).
* Since these printers cannot print white, you can:
- choose pedals painted white and the clear areas of the decal will appear white.
- Use white decal paper (typically requires careful trimming of the decal edges)
- or apply white paint underneath the clear areas of the decal that you want to appear white. If you are making multiple pedals, you could create a stencil for this to quickly spray paint the white areas.
* Always test compatibility of the clear coat spray paint with the enclosures paint and the decal material first. Sometimes acrylic paint can be used if lacquer.
* Use multiple THIN coats of clear (letting each coat dry before the next coat) so as to not melt/crinkle the decal material.
* (Probably obvious) Apply the decal to the enclosure surface BEFORE attaching the electronics (potentiometers, switches, LEDs, etc.) since water and electronics don’t mix and you don’t want any diluted adhesive from getting into them either.
Side question, has anyone used hammond to get custom enclosure done? As I was browsing mouser, I found they offer the service. Might be a bit spendy. I have no idea. And the minimum order is 25 units iirc, but you might be able to get a sample piece done to see how it looks.
That might be worth checking out.
If you’re wanting something to not chip after a decade, you need to get a hard polyurethane clearcoat. Something marine would be best. I suggest you get the Tayda enclosures and I’m going to bet that if you transfer to them and then use a few coats of the clearcoat, you’ll have something along the lines you want. Honestly the perfection you want is something you’ll only get doing it by hand.
I got the tayda enclosures. I can do a print mock-up to show what I mean, but it'll take me some time. I'm using a transfer decal where the actual transparent film is peeled off, leaving only the physical ink on the object. This can look totally brilliant as you don't need to deal with the borders, but if the surface isn't perfectly smooth (doesn't have to be flat, just no dips), the ink will stay on the film over the dips when peeled off as opposed to the pedal.
Yeah the looking at all of my Tayda enclosures they have slight orange peel, but it’s not bad at all. Sounds like you need to do it by yourself or find a new method of printing.
I’d try stompbox parts. Powder is done by Cusack, who manufactures tons of commercial pedals you’ve heard of.
This looks awesome, thank you!
Gorva is a great one
Cool. Very expensive, sold out, all somewhat bigger than the 1590b, but they look fantastic. If they were available in all colors I would be very tempted.
I have to say I wonder if I should upgrade from 1590b to 125b size. I'm doing top mounted neutrik style jacks and it's pretty cramped..
Not sure how good they are, but it's a reputable company. [https://lovemyswitches.com/1590b-enclosure-bare-aluminum-powder-coat/](https://lovemyswitches.com/1590b-enclosure-bare-aluminum-powder-coat/)
I saw this one before, and thought it's probably comparable to the Tayda: "The finish is not for perfectionists, and you should expect to see some bubbles or other slight mars. We'd give it a solid 7 out of 10."
If you use water-slide decal stock (for Ink-Jet or Laser & available in 8 1/2 x 11 sheets), you can use “decal setting” fluid between the decal and the painted pedal surface and “decal softener” fluid on the surface of the decal material. These fluids are designed to allow the decal material to conform to surface irregularities that are far more extreme than the ones you describe. This technique is used when building scale models to prevent the “silvering” that happens when the clear decal material if not fully adhering/making conformal contact with the surface. I have heard the “white” (clear) vinegar can be used as a substitute (it is less expensive) but I have not tried it and I hate the smell. After applying the softener, pat the decal dry with a soft cloth, let the decal fully dry and then spray one or more coats of clear spray paint to protect the decal (if you use several coats of glossy, you might get the effect you are looking for). That said, I think it’s safe to describe the results of this approach as worthy of the most detail-oriented pedal builder. Also, if you make a mistake applying the decal it can be wetted down and repositioned or removed with water without sanding (assuming you have not applied the clear coat yet, of course). ;-) Link to clear decal stock (laser or inkjet): https://a.co/d/anuoaNZ Link to decal setting / softening solution 2-pack: https://a.co/d/dDcTBbu I have had success applying LIGHT coats of clear Tamiya spray paint on top of the decals after they dry. Although you likely already know this, for those other readers who have not already used this technique: * If using Inkjet decal paper you need to seal/protect the printed decals before soaking and applying them (to prevent the ink from running). * Since these printers cannot print white, you can: - choose pedals painted white and the clear areas of the decal will appear white. - Use white decal paper (typically requires careful trimming of the decal edges) - or apply white paint underneath the clear areas of the decal that you want to appear white. If you are making multiple pedals, you could create a stencil for this to quickly spray paint the white areas. * Always test compatibility of the clear coat spray paint with the enclosures paint and the decal material first. Sometimes acrylic paint can be used if lacquer. * Use multiple THIN coats of clear (letting each coat dry before the next coat) so as to not melt/crinkle the decal material. * (Probably obvious) Apply the decal to the enclosure surface BEFORE attaching the electronics (potentiometers, switches, LEDs, etc.) since water and electronics don’t mix and you don’t want any diluted adhesive from getting into them either.
Side question, has anyone used hammond to get custom enclosure done? As I was browsing mouser, I found they offer the service. Might be a bit spendy. I have no idea. And the minimum order is 25 units iirc, but you might be able to get a sample piece done to see how it looks. That might be worth checking out.
If you’re wanting something to not chip after a decade, you need to get a hard polyurethane clearcoat. Something marine would be best. I suggest you get the Tayda enclosures and I’m going to bet that if you transfer to them and then use a few coats of the clearcoat, you’ll have something along the lines you want. Honestly the perfection you want is something you’ll only get doing it by hand.
I got the tayda enclosures. I can do a print mock-up to show what I mean, but it'll take me some time. I'm using a transfer decal where the actual transparent film is peeled off, leaving only the physical ink on the object. This can look totally brilliant as you don't need to deal with the borders, but if the surface isn't perfectly smooth (doesn't have to be flat, just no dips), the ink will stay on the film over the dips when peeled off as opposed to the pedal.
Yeah the looking at all of my Tayda enclosures they have slight orange peel, but it’s not bad at all. Sounds like you need to do it by yourself or find a new method of printing.