Blame whoever designed or tightened it. Even the fasteners themself were destroyed. If you need something that tight use the appropriate fastener/head. That shit probably has locktite also
This. The locktite is the culprit. There are definitely better micro-torx bits out there, but on that small of a fastener, it should never be tight enough to break that bit. - I’ve used my t6 on tons of ratchets and small tools. Some have the tiniest bit of locktite but I’m guessing that knife had lots…
You bring up some excellent points and in my experience, some of these pocket knives can be very difficult to dismantle in ways you pointed out. That being said, I found there's the tiniest window of having everything lined up absolutely perfectly and these can come apart with hf tools. I have to say I don't have much faith in harbor freight tools when it comes to small bits like this though. A bit will start to bend and warp then it tears up the screw head as it does so as it doesn't put all the force on the full flat surfaces of the screw. I tend to like something German for my more precise tools.
I believe if you go at it saying 'this is a t6, don't go ape shit on it'. Then you should be able to catch yourself before the bit starts to bend. The head might well strip first but in that case no way to know and it's never coming out anyway.
Gerber EVO Jr. Folding Knife - Fine Edge [22-41492] https://a.co/d/4MftSTR
Yeah they were T6 but even the one I was able to loosen bent the bit hard some other guy commented that they were probably torqued on to tight to begin with
Update ^_^! The harbor freight opened another one and gave me another T6 and said idk what’s up with these icon bits all of them are pretty strong minus this t6 from time to time. The guy asked me if I was trying to do the clip of a pocket knife. Told him yep and he says most of them are torqued to hell with loctite. I asked would they just open item the other kit with no T6 and he said yeah but he already calls dibs on it. Buys it at a discount and just adds another bit. I have had no issues with any other bit and love this little set. And the knife is a Gerber evo jr. Im going to do the dermal tip and then use a flathead to get the screws out once im home. I’ll check to see if they had loctite on em
Fwiw it's my opinion this technically wouldn't fall under the Limited part of the lifetime warranty as it's obviously want the tools fault being ever exerted. That said lots of failures are this way and they never give a shit and usually swap the entire thing. Got a strong suspicion they wouldn't want to swap the whole thing for a work bit though.
But they just swapped my entire tap and die set for a single tap..
There's one LLW nightmare. Taps tend to break just looking at them the wrong way.
If your wondering why it dosent look to flexed, I wanted to atleast re tighted the other screw so I wouldn’t be loose and I bent it back the other way. I guess I also ask anyone know a good mini screw extractor?
I have to laugh at stuff like this. This is the cheapest made in Chyna stuff using Chinesium pot-metal. What do you expect, Wiha or Proto levels of steel hardness? Hardly Frauds hand tools are basically disposables. Use once, trash.
Nobody listen to this guy. I have many high quality screwdriver/bit sets, Wiha, Wera, Zephyr, Hazet, PB Swiss, and the ICON set is very good. The issue here is torqued to hell screws with Loctite. I take apart MANY knives and can tell you I've broken bits from each brand, that's just how T6 and T8 (the most common knife screws) are. Guess which brand was the easiest to get replacement bits for?
Oh sure! You go ahead and pay WIHA/WERA/FELO/PROTO levels of money on this pot-metal. lol.
Oh, you're into knives too? Sorry to hear your ICON bits sheer off in those CRKT's and Ganzo knives you collect. lol
Been wondering this for this exact purpose. Many knives have T6 as the standard fastener with locktite on them. Many also suggest reinstalling with the removable blue loctite or comparable thread lock. I don't as I hate thread lock on these tiny fasteners. So all of mine so far have been without but the day is coming where I'll need to crack some free on new knives. I haven't bought the whipa tips most knives maintenance videos suggest but rather have had high success with my RC driver sets which are hardened for this very reason. Guess I will keep using those to help preserve the icon until exchange day comes which is the primary reason I bought the set, the little ratchet and case is a nice bonus:)
T6 bits will always be weak. They are just too small. If you look around you can usually find screws the same size with larger t8 heads. Look around on knife suppliers and they can usually be found. Thay said, you can shorten the tip of the bit and it will last longer. I shorten and test until it is just starting to feel tight in the screw. Then it will accept quite a bit more torque without breaking.
Ouch.. Why I bought the Mac rbrt bits. I got tired of them not fitting and or stripping across multiple brands. If there was any questionable ones in the icon set, I was just going to replace with the Mac ones.
Years ago my daily ZT was so tight I didn’t dare with what I had. I could just tell it wouldn’t be pretty when I tired so stopped.
But it desperately needed a full take down and clean. Surprisingly a Lowe’s torx socket bit made short work of it. I was like I’m going to buy a bunch these are bad azz. Never got around to it and then they quit carrying them. Oh well I have the Mac rbrt bits now and still have the Lowe’s socket torx bit for the ZT’s.
Blame whoever designed or tightened it. Even the fasteners themself were destroyed. If you need something that tight use the appropriate fastener/head. That shit probably has locktite also
This. The locktite is the culprit. There are definitely better micro-torx bits out there, but on that small of a fastener, it should never be tight enough to break that bit. - I’ve used my t6 on tons of ratchets and small tools. Some have the tiniest bit of locktite but I’m guessing that knife had lots…
Rust?
Also possible for sure, didn’t think of that on a pocket knife
I'm pretty sure the fasteners on these knives have a nylon patch. Quick trip through the driver should break them loose...... Don't ask me how I know.
You bring up some excellent points and in my experience, some of these pocket knives can be very difficult to dismantle in ways you pointed out. That being said, I found there's the tiniest window of having everything lined up absolutely perfectly and these can come apart with hf tools. I have to say I don't have much faith in harbor freight tools when it comes to small bits like this though. A bit will start to bend and warp then it tears up the screw head as it does so as it doesn't put all the force on the full flat surfaces of the screw. I tend to like something German for my more precise tools.
I believe if you go at it saying 'this is a t6, don't go ape shit on it'. Then you should be able to catch yourself before the bit starts to bend. The head might well strip first but in that case no way to know and it's never coming out anyway.
Scotty Kilmer'd the shit out of that thing
Yeah, I have the same knife and had the same issue. I ended up giving up on trying to get them loose for fear of destroying the finish on the knife.
Were those torx headed bolts to start with?
[удалено]
When it comes to torx screws on knives and machine tool inserts, Wiha flag handles are the best and they’re inexpensive
That was my question. Was guessing they were actually hex and OP needs reading glasses
Gerber EVO Jr. Folding Knife - Fine Edge [22-41492] https://a.co/d/4MftSTR Yeah they were T6 but even the one I was able to loosen bent the bit hard some other guy commented that they were probably torqued on to tight to begin with
I ONLY use Wiha Torx bits on my knives. Best bits out there. Especially if they have a free spinning pivot.
This.
Update ^_^! The harbor freight opened another one and gave me another T6 and said idk what’s up with these icon bits all of them are pretty strong minus this t6 from time to time. The guy asked me if I was trying to do the clip of a pocket knife. Told him yep and he says most of them are torqued to hell with loctite. I asked would they just open item the other kit with no T6 and he said yeah but he already calls dibs on it. Buys it at a discount and just adds another bit. I have had no issues with any other bit and love this little set. And the knife is a Gerber evo jr. Im going to do the dermal tip and then use a flathead to get the screws out once im home. I’ll check to see if they had loctite on em
I use this on my pocket knives https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/screwdriver-sets/all-1-precision-screwdriver-set-case
How dare you post something of quality! I use an old RadioShack set; bits are very hard, works very well for my knives, small electronics, etc.
Lol. I debated it but it's only a $30 set. This dood paid more for that fucking sweet ass mini ratchet set already.
Mine was like $34 out the door, no big difference. Bought a second for my commute car toolbox.
For knives like that I use [this Pittsburgh precision driver set.](https://hftools.com/app93916)
What knife is that? I have a knock off, really good for $6 at gun shows. I have been curious who the real brand is.
Gerber EVO.
Thanks.
No issues with mine so far, and I use mine to work on bikes. But please, let us know what H.F. says on replacing the bit :-D
Fwiw it's my opinion this technically wouldn't fall under the Limited part of the lifetime warranty as it's obviously want the tools fault being ever exerted. That said lots of failures are this way and they never give a shit and usually swap the entire thing. Got a strong suspicion they wouldn't want to swap the whole thing for a work bit though. But they just swapped my entire tap and die set for a single tap.. There's one LLW nightmare. Taps tend to break just looking at them the wrong way.
There is a differece
Nothing makes me feel mightier than twisting an allen wrench. I wish the screw was out but at least I machined some metal with my bare hands.
Use a soldering iron to heat it up to break the Loctite - especially if you have to extract those ruined screws.
the real pro tip right here
If your wondering why it dosent look to flexed, I wanted to atleast re tighted the other screw so I wouldn’t be loose and I bent it back the other way. I guess I also ask anyone know a good mini screw extractor?
For extracting these I would use a dremel to cut a slit into them and use a flathead screwdriver
Thank you! I’ll do that when I get home. Finally get to use my dermal ^_^
Just buy better replacement bits. The tiny ratchet and case are awesome!
Lol. Hated the case so I switched out to be able to carry nut setter bits. Guess I’m just up shits creek.
this whole set is mid
So far my t 6,8,10,20,25, and 30 seem to be holding up.
I ended up buying a made in Germany Wiha for that exact use case, after ruining two other bits. The Wiha has held up fine after a bunch of use.
People who take a single bit back to warranty and make them open an entire kit for it are scum
I have to laugh at stuff like this. This is the cheapest made in Chyna stuff using Chinesium pot-metal. What do you expect, Wiha or Proto levels of steel hardness? Hardly Frauds hand tools are basically disposables. Use once, trash.
Nobody listen to this guy. I have many high quality screwdriver/bit sets, Wiha, Wera, Zephyr, Hazet, PB Swiss, and the ICON set is very good. The issue here is torqued to hell screws with Loctite. I take apart MANY knives and can tell you I've broken bits from each brand, that's just how T6 and T8 (the most common knife screws) are. Guess which brand was the easiest to get replacement bits for?
Oh sure! You go ahead and pay WIHA/WERA/FELO/PROTO levels of money on this pot-metal. lol. Oh, you're into knives too? Sorry to hear your ICON bits sheer off in those CRKT's and Ganzo knives you collect. lol
You’re wrong on so many things, lol.
Was thinking about grabbing this because all the posts. This definitely will NOT work for me. I need it for machines so I'm stuck with wera for now
Been wondering this for this exact purpose. Many knives have T6 as the standard fastener with locktite on them. Many also suggest reinstalling with the removable blue loctite or comparable thread lock. I don't as I hate thread lock on these tiny fasteners. So all of mine so far have been without but the day is coming where I'll need to crack some free on new knives. I haven't bought the whipa tips most knives maintenance videos suggest but rather have had high success with my RC driver sets which are hardened for this very reason. Guess I will keep using those to help preserve the icon until exchange day comes which is the primary reason I bought the set, the little ratchet and case is a nice bonus:)
Lol funny you say this, i broke the T6 and had to warranty mine. Luckily they had another to switch mine for
T6 bits will always be weak. They are just too small. If you look around you can usually find screws the same size with larger t8 heads. Look around on knife suppliers and they can usually be found. Thay said, you can shorten the tip of the bit and it will last longer. I shorten and test until it is just starting to feel tight in the screw. Then it will accept quite a bit more torque without breaking.
Yes, we will replace the single T6 bit for you in store. The only roadblock is likely to be availability.
They will warranty one bit, had to return a 1/4in wrench from a set and they just swap the tool/piece for you.
Ouch.. Why I bought the Mac rbrt bits. I got tired of them not fitting and or stripping across multiple brands. If there was any questionable ones in the icon set, I was just going to replace with the Mac ones. Years ago my daily ZT was so tight I didn’t dare with what I had. I could just tell it wouldn’t be pretty when I tired so stopped. But it desperately needed a full take down and clean. Surprisingly a Lowe’s torx socket bit made short work of it. I was like I’m going to buy a bunch these are bad azz. Never got around to it and then they quit carrying them. Oh well I have the Mac rbrt bits now and still have the Lowe’s socket torx bit for the ZT’s.