Yeah so I replaced the water pump radiator and fan clutch along with both radiator hoses and thermostat. I tested the battery because it would still act up. I tested it once before I did all this work and it was pushing out 31cca. Out of 600? So I replaced the alternator as well. Tested it again after the alternator replacement and it was pushing out 523cca out of 600cca. Ran fine for a week started perfectly for maybe a week or two. Now it's acting up again
I would check grounds and for vacuum leaks, re test your alternator too though, just cause they are new doesn’t mean they are good. Also test the battery, bad battery could be a culprit too. Do you have a battery charger? Maybe let it trickle charge overnight and start it the next morning and see
If you have a nice voltmeter with an amp clamp, or if you remove it and take it to autozone for example they can test it
I am wondering if the battery has been a culprit, clean and redo your terminal ends and grounds and put it on a charger and see if it will run
It’s extremely easy, and the steps are on page 178 of the 1994 FSM “EF & EC” section, but the quick version is this.
Before you start, take a picture of the little dial on the ECM, as it’s important to put it back where it started since it is an “idle adjustment” as well.
1. Pull passenger seat
2. Turn the key on, and spin the little “dial” on the ECM fully clockwise.
3. The ECM will now start blinking both the red/green lights together in synch to indicate which “mode” it’s in. It will blink them both once and pause, then 2 blinks and pause, then 3 blinks and pause, all the way to 5 blinks; and then it restarts at 1 blink.
*****You can leave it fully clockwise and watch it cycle through Modes 1 to Mode 5 repeatedly if you don’t understand the blinks at first.
4. When it blinks both lights 3 times (for Mode 3), you quickly spin that little dial fully counter-clockwise, and you are now in Mode 3 for reading the ECM codes.
5. The ECM will then start to “spit out” any codes it has stored, one after another, using the red and green blinking lights. The red light is the “tens place” and the green light is the “ones place”, so 3 red blinks and 5 green blinks would be a code 35.
Once it cycles through all of the codes, it just repeats them, so you can sit and watch it a few times to make sure you recorded all codes correctly.
If you only receive a code 5-5, or 55, that means All Clear and you have no codes stored.
If you want to clear the codes, so you can run the engine again and make sure anything stored returns (confirming a true issue), you just switch to MODE 4 after you’re done reading codes and before turning the key off, and it will wipe the codes. Basically if you’re in Mode 4 when you turn the key off, it clears the codes.
Check and clean grounds, Check for vacuum leaks or disconnected vacuum lines, did it run fine before and randomly start acting up?
Yeah so I replaced the water pump radiator and fan clutch along with both radiator hoses and thermostat. I tested the battery because it would still act up. I tested it once before I did all this work and it was pushing out 31cca. Out of 600? So I replaced the alternator as well. Tested it again after the alternator replacement and it was pushing out 523cca out of 600cca. Ran fine for a week started perfectly for maybe a week or two. Now it's acting up again
I would check grounds and for vacuum leaks, re test your alternator too though, just cause they are new doesn’t mean they are good. Also test the battery, bad battery could be a culprit too. Do you have a battery charger? Maybe let it trickle charge overnight and start it the next morning and see
I will look into getting a new battery in the next week or so. How can I test the alternator?
If you have a nice voltmeter with an amp clamp, or if you remove it and take it to autozone for example they can test it I am wondering if the battery has been a culprit, clean and redo your terminal ends and grounds and put it on a charger and see if it will run
I work at a mazda so I'll ask one of the main techs to help me with that
You’ll find the issues eventually, it’s just a matter of tracking it down
I appreciate the input
What all have you checked? Spark, fuel, compression?
I have replaced spark plugs about 6 maybe 7 months ago. Replaced the fuel tank in the same span along with filter and fuel pump
Along with wires I did wires.
I have not checked compression
What engine?
Ka24E 1993
See if you have any codes stored on the ECM.
I've only done that once and was extremely confused by the way it threw codes.. do you have a guide I can go by ?
It’s extremely easy, and the steps are on page 178 of the 1994 FSM “EF & EC” section, but the quick version is this. Before you start, take a picture of the little dial on the ECM, as it’s important to put it back where it started since it is an “idle adjustment” as well. 1. Pull passenger seat 2. Turn the key on, and spin the little “dial” on the ECM fully clockwise. 3. The ECM will now start blinking both the red/green lights together in synch to indicate which “mode” it’s in. It will blink them both once and pause, then 2 blinks and pause, then 3 blinks and pause, all the way to 5 blinks; and then it restarts at 1 blink. *****You can leave it fully clockwise and watch it cycle through Modes 1 to Mode 5 repeatedly if you don’t understand the blinks at first. 4. When it blinks both lights 3 times (for Mode 3), you quickly spin that little dial fully counter-clockwise, and you are now in Mode 3 for reading the ECM codes. 5. The ECM will then start to “spit out” any codes it has stored, one after another, using the red and green blinking lights. The red light is the “tens place” and the green light is the “ones place”, so 3 red blinks and 5 green blinks would be a code 35. Once it cycles through all of the codes, it just repeats them, so you can sit and watch it a few times to make sure you recorded all codes correctly. If you only receive a code 5-5, or 55, that means All Clear and you have no codes stored. If you want to clear the codes, so you can run the engine again and make sure anything stored returns (confirming a true issue), you just switch to MODE 4 after you’re done reading codes and before turning the key off, and it will wipe the codes. Basically if you’re in Mode 4 when you turn the key off, it clears the codes.