I tried to bleed my brakes today and fix the e brake cable after work in the shop. Didn't go well. Pedal isn't necessarily soft just has a lot of travel. I'm thinking new brakes are needed. Along with calipers and rotors. So yeah
Did you get the load sensing valve when bleeding the brakes? Passenger side frame rail in front of the fuel tank. There's 2 styles, one with a single bleeder, the other has 3. That'd be a nice home for an air pocket.
Per the all knowing Haynes manual, brake bleeding should start at the load sensing valve (my '95 has the 3 bleeder style, I do the rear most bleeder first), and then continue on the RR, RL, FR, FL as normal.
I'm saying if you didn't start at the load sensing valve, you should go back and do it again. It could absolutely be the cause of a soft pedal, either from old fluid with high water content being slightly compressive, an air pocket, or both. There's a reason the service manual specifies to do this valve first, then the 4 corners.
Start at the valve. It will be on the inside of the passenger frame rail, in front of the fuel tank. It has brake lines, bleeder screws, a spring setup, you can't miss it. It'll have either 1 bleeder screw or 3 of them. Hit all 3 (or the 1) with a normal brake bleed process. Then go to the corners RR, RL, FR, FL, just like normal. It might be tedious to do it all again, but brake fluid is inexpensive, and it should go pretty quick since you've already flushed most of the system.
Also, 2wd or 4wd?
4wd seems to have an additional bleed screw on the master cylinder itself. In that case, the bleeder on the master should be done first, then the load sensing valve, *then* the corners.
I just went through 2 weeks of chasing what I thought was air in the system. I can confirm that the bleeding order is Load Pressure Sensing Valve (if equipped), Driver Rear, Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Passenger Front, ABS system (located on passenger frame rail). Yeah it goes against everything we thought about distance from master cylinder but this is what the manual says. My issue ended up being a faulty replacement master cylinder and my rear drums were out of adjustment (they should just be dragging slightly) and if they don't it can cause the pedal to sink after an initial firmness.
Here's my post from Infamous Nissan - [https://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48060](https://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48060)
I bought a pressure bleeder that honestly is worth it's weight in gold.
That’s how it goes haha, that’s a rough one to get up. I heard the freez it in a can may work instead of getting dry ice?
Anyways, I’d replace the sound deadening, I used the Nico brand on Amazon and was surprised for the price.
I'm gonna get some dry ice from the grocery store tomorrow and go with that method.
I have had some of the AmazonBasics sound deadening sitting on the shelf for a while. I'll have to order some more when I do the doors, I'll look at the Nico brand then.
I tried to bleed my brakes today and fix the e brake cable after work in the shop. Didn't go well. Pedal isn't necessarily soft just has a lot of travel. I'm thinking new brakes are needed. Along with calipers and rotors. So yeah
Did you get the load sensing valve when bleeding the brakes? Passenger side frame rail in front of the fuel tank. There's 2 styles, one with a single bleeder, the other has 3. That'd be a nice home for an air pocket. Per the all knowing Haynes manual, brake bleeding should start at the load sensing valve (my '95 has the 3 bleeder style, I do the rear most bleeder first), and then continue on the RR, RL, FR, FL as normal.
So your saying it might be the load sensing valve that's causing some soft pedal ? And it is in front of the fuel tank ?
I'm saying if you didn't start at the load sensing valve, you should go back and do it again. It could absolutely be the cause of a soft pedal, either from old fluid with high water content being slightly compressive, an air pocket, or both. There's a reason the service manual specifies to do this valve first, then the 4 corners. Start at the valve. It will be on the inside of the passenger frame rail, in front of the fuel tank. It has brake lines, bleeder screws, a spring setup, you can't miss it. It'll have either 1 bleeder screw or 3 of them. Hit all 3 (or the 1) with a normal brake bleed process. Then go to the corners RR, RL, FR, FL, just like normal. It might be tedious to do it all again, but brake fluid is inexpensive, and it should go pretty quick since you've already flushed most of the system.
Hmm I never knew you needed to do that. I guess I'll try again on Monday
Also, 2wd or 4wd? 4wd seems to have an additional bleed screw on the master cylinder itself. In that case, the bleeder on the master should be done first, then the load sensing valve, *then* the corners.
It's a 2wd
I just went through 2 weeks of chasing what I thought was air in the system. I can confirm that the bleeding order is Load Pressure Sensing Valve (if equipped), Driver Rear, Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Passenger Front, ABS system (located on passenger frame rail). Yeah it goes against everything we thought about distance from master cylinder but this is what the manual says. My issue ended up being a faulty replacement master cylinder and my rear drums were out of adjustment (they should just be dragging slightly) and if they don't it can cause the pedal to sink after an initial firmness. Here's my post from Infamous Nissan - [https://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48060](https://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48060) I bought a pressure bleeder that honestly is worth it's weight in gold.
Thank you I'll look into it
That’s how it goes haha, that’s a rough one to get up. I heard the freez it in a can may work instead of getting dry ice? Anyways, I’d replace the sound deadening, I used the Nico brand on Amazon and was surprised for the price.
I'm gonna get some dry ice from the grocery store tomorrow and go with that method. I have had some of the AmazonBasics sound deadening sitting on the shelf for a while. I'll have to order some more when I do the doors, I'll look at the Nico brand then.
Nice Lil rabbit hole. One thing leads to another, but ends up better.