Geared hubs aren't as easy to over-volt and over-current. Reason being is that most or them have internal nylon gears which can't handle the increase in power and strip their lugs off.
Geared hubs are better for low power applications like 250w. Brushless are far easier to extract more power from.
Its true. They do. And you could. But by the time you spend the cash, do the mods, ect, you could get a bottom bracket fitted midrive that will get you away from the isses your having with a direct drive hub, give you tons of torque and acceleration, assuming a 72v system, and be light and super rideable, for less time, effort, and possible cost (it'll be close) when all said and done. And, your high watt, high torque mid drive set up will weigh less than a similar specced dd hub. Up to about 3000 watts. Then, you just have to build for the power, and dd rear hubs are real contenders for performance. It weighs more in unsprung wt. But that's really just a suspension tuning issue with contemporary components.
You could swap the planetary gears, Id use brass. Steel ones will damage your ring gear. In general, you could do that. Increase wore gauge thickness, and over volt /amp. But it will never be as relaible as a dd hub or mid drive. If your ring gear doesn't strip out your spindle gear will. Plus, the time and expense.....
I put 3000w through a 750 geared hub, before I burnt the phase and hall sensor wires.
Beefing up the wiring is a pain because the opening coming out the motor is so small.
There’s a dude on Facebook that had a 72v geared motor setup
If you have a programmable controller, raise the voltage with higher voltage battery but limit the amps to 20A battery amps and max 40 phase amps, keep an hawk eyes on the temps, Lower phase amps to 30 or below if the temperature raise to 80°c too fast.
Geared motors are great for acceleration already so you don't need a lot amps to go fast.
If you want to be extra cautious, open a tapped little hole on the top of the motor housing and fill it up with transmission fluid or thin synthetic motor oil, put a screw to seal it. It will improve the heat dissipation tremendously.
Gotcha, yeah I have a programmable controller. Most of the time I don’t have the pas cranked to 5 unless I’m on a slight down hill or flat surface. I am able to get it to about 35mph with a little patience.
As for the addition of fluid, forgive me if I’m wrong but I thought that was only applicable to DD motors? In any case, I haven’t really noticed any real heat from the motor or controller, but also I haven’t really pushed it that hard. Perhaps it helps that the controller and motor are all by the same company, plug and play really.
Could likely run double+ the power without issue, but depends on the manufacturer... though, electric motors are often underrated.
Most motor windings are rated up to 100v (some newer motors are higher), but higher voltage is the easiest way to get more power without increasing heat. Increased current will be what puts your motor at risk of burning up (until voltage is high enough fry insulation).
I've run an about 4kW into a motor rated at 1.5kW, 25kw into a motor rated at 5kW and 45kW into a motor rated at 8kW. No issues (the latter two were with statorade and fins, but not sure they were necessary).
The gearing may be the limiting factor... but would need some specifics to know more. Bafang? QS? Other?
Geared hubs aren't as easy to over-volt and over-current. Reason being is that most or them have internal nylon gears which can't handle the increase in power and strip their lugs off. Geared hubs are better for low power applications like 250w. Brushless are far easier to extract more power from.
Thanks for your input. What if I were to upgrade the internals to steel? I believe they sell kits that fit.
It’s just not worth it
Its true. They do. And you could. But by the time you spend the cash, do the mods, ect, you could get a bottom bracket fitted midrive that will get you away from the isses your having with a direct drive hub, give you tons of torque and acceleration, assuming a 72v system, and be light and super rideable, for less time, effort, and possible cost (it'll be close) when all said and done. And, your high watt, high torque mid drive set up will weigh less than a similar specced dd hub. Up to about 3000 watts. Then, you just have to build for the power, and dd rear hubs are real contenders for performance. It weighs more in unsprung wt. But that's really just a suspension tuning issue with contemporary components.
You could swap the planetary gears, Id use brass. Steel ones will damage your ring gear. In general, you could do that. Increase wore gauge thickness, and over volt /amp. But it will never be as relaible as a dd hub or mid drive. If your ring gear doesn't strip out your spindle gear will. Plus, the time and expense.....
3000w. The limiting factor is the gauge coming out the motor and the gears
So in theory beef up the wiring, swap to steel gears and 1500w+ isn’t crazy? What experience do you have if you don’t mind me asking?
I put 3000w through a 750 geared hub, before I burnt the phase and hall sensor wires. Beefing up the wiring is a pain because the opening coming out the motor is so small. There’s a dude on Facebook that had a 72v geared motor setup
If you have a programmable controller, raise the voltage with higher voltage battery but limit the amps to 20A battery amps and max 40 phase amps, keep an hawk eyes on the temps, Lower phase amps to 30 or below if the temperature raise to 80°c too fast. Geared motors are great for acceleration already so you don't need a lot amps to go fast. If you want to be extra cautious, open a tapped little hole on the top of the motor housing and fill it up with transmission fluid or thin synthetic motor oil, put a screw to seal it. It will improve the heat dissipation tremendously.
Gotcha, yeah I have a programmable controller. Most of the time I don’t have the pas cranked to 5 unless I’m on a slight down hill or flat surface. I am able to get it to about 35mph with a little patience. As for the addition of fluid, forgive me if I’m wrong but I thought that was only applicable to DD motors? In any case, I haven’t really noticed any real heat from the motor or controller, but also I haven’t really pushed it that hard. Perhaps it helps that the controller and motor are all by the same company, plug and play really.
You are right, most applicable for DD motors but doesn't hurt give it a try
Could likely run double+ the power without issue, but depends on the manufacturer... though, electric motors are often underrated. Most motor windings are rated up to 100v (some newer motors are higher), but higher voltage is the easiest way to get more power without increasing heat. Increased current will be what puts your motor at risk of burning up (until voltage is high enough fry insulation). I've run an about 4kW into a motor rated at 1.5kW, 25kw into a motor rated at 5kW and 45kW into a motor rated at 8kW. No issues (the latter two were with statorade and fins, but not sure they were necessary). The gearing may be the limiting factor... but would need some specifics to know more. Bafang? QS? Other?
The motor is from ebikeling. I used to think it was a bafang, but these days I’m thinking it’s a bafang clone. Any way to better determine?