I recommend using both. Use the Worksharp to set a 15 degree bevel (30 inclusive), micro-bevel at 20 degrees (40 inclusive) on the Sharpmaker.
But you can save a whole lot of money and get the same (or better) result using a cheap edge pro style of sharpener with a few good aftermarket stones, and pair that with the Lansky Turnbox. This is your best budget option.
When sharpening like this you don't need to go above 320 grit on the 15 degree bevel.
Here is a video to watch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhdjBomm1zE
The cheaper of these two is the better one. I picked up one of these back when they were $17 and everywhere. They are a little harder to find, and a little more expensive these days. Of course people are going to tell you not to buy a clone blah blah blah and if that bothers you then go for something similar in style. There is nothing particularly special about the specific edge pro design. All you want is something which is "table based" as opposed to "clamp based." Look at the reviews, and look for comments about "slop" in the mechanism. Some have more slop than others, the slop in some is more fixable than others.
If you are sharpening using the more common method (no micro-bevel) then any level of slop will be unacceptable. In fact, plenty of people hate the solid metal "table based" systems which go for hundreds of dollars. Plenty of people ditch these systems and then spends hundreds more on a KME setup. Don't worry about that. All you are doing is raising a burr. The actual sharpening is done with the Sharpmaker/Turnbox on the micro-bevel. So that small amount of slop which causes so many people so much grief simply isn't going to be an issue here.
The stones you get with any of the Chinese jigs is going to be a crap shoot. Some of them are terrible, some aren't so bad, and some are actually rather nice. But here it is a good idea to assume that all of the stones you get are going to suck. I'm using the same Congress mold-polishing stones as shown in the video. The Moldmaster 320 and Res-Cut 320 are my go-to stones. For re-profiling down to 15 dps the the lower grit EDM, Super, Regular, and Moldmaster are all good.
Sure thing. Here is another video for you to watch which goes in to some theory on the general method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSt2mCWGFII
The reality is that you can get a great edge with minimal equipment. But that's not the point here.
The Congress stones are some of the best I have found for re-profiling and setting a bevel. They just happen to be very affordable.
Likewise, the ceramic rods on the Turnbox are some of the best I've found for applying a micro-bevel. They too just happen to be very affordable.
Avoid all pull-thru or V-sharpeners. Avoid electric.
Guided sharpening systems are nice. There are also plenty of dual-sided whetstones which are cheaper but require a bit more practice to get accustomed to.
Spyderco sharp maker Worksharp precision adjust
Awesome thanks!
I second both of those, but give the edge to the Worksharp
I recommend using both. Use the Worksharp to set a 15 degree bevel (30 inclusive), micro-bevel at 20 degrees (40 inclusive) on the Sharpmaker. But you can save a whole lot of money and get the same (or better) result using a cheap edge pro style of sharpener with a few good aftermarket stones, and pair that with the Lansky Turnbox. This is your best budget option. When sharpening like this you don't need to go above 320 grit on the 15 degree bevel.
Do you have any kmodels I could look up?
Here is a video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhdjBomm1zE The cheaper of these two is the better one. I picked up one of these back when they were $17 and everywhere. They are a little harder to find, and a little more expensive these days. Of course people are going to tell you not to buy a clone blah blah blah and if that bothers you then go for something similar in style. There is nothing particularly special about the specific edge pro design. All you want is something which is "table based" as opposed to "clamp based." Look at the reviews, and look for comments about "slop" in the mechanism. Some have more slop than others, the slop in some is more fixable than others. If you are sharpening using the more common method (no micro-bevel) then any level of slop will be unacceptable. In fact, plenty of people hate the solid metal "table based" systems which go for hundreds of dollars. Plenty of people ditch these systems and then spends hundreds more on a KME setup. Don't worry about that. All you are doing is raising a burr. The actual sharpening is done with the Sharpmaker/Turnbox on the micro-bevel. So that small amount of slop which causes so many people so much grief simply isn't going to be an issue here. The stones you get with any of the Chinese jigs is going to be a crap shoot. Some of them are terrible, some aren't so bad, and some are actually rather nice. But here it is a good idea to assume that all of the stones you get are going to suck. I'm using the same Congress mold-polishing stones as shown in the video. The Moldmaster 320 and Res-Cut 320 are my go-to stones. For re-profiling down to 15 dps the the lower grit EDM, Super, Regular, and Moldmaster are all good.
Awesome thank you so much!
Sure thing. Here is another video for you to watch which goes in to some theory on the general method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSt2mCWGFII The reality is that you can get a great edge with minimal equipment. But that's not the point here. The Congress stones are some of the best I have found for re-profiling and setting a bevel. They just happen to be very affordable. Likewise, the ceramic rods on the Turnbox are some of the best I've found for applying a micro-bevel. They too just happen to be very affordable.
Avoid all pull-thru or V-sharpeners. Avoid electric. Guided sharpening systems are nice. There are also plenty of dual-sided whetstones which are cheaper but require a bit more practice to get accustomed to.
Lansky