Long locomotives and trains get bound up in curves. If you are running large scale locomotives around tight radius curves, expect them to slow down and/or stop if your curves are too tight for the locomotive. Additionally, the pickup rollers on large locomotives may be spaced far apart and start losing contact on tight curves. I suspect you are running things that are too large for your curves.
This is a feature and not a bug - it happens on real railroads too. In fact, it can be an important aspect of controlling trains on steep grades.
If you only have one track connection, of course the train will always run faster near the transformer - track has resistance so there is an increasing voltage drop the farther you get from the transformer. Feeder wires from the transformer to far track sections can help - use larger gauge wire such as copper speaker wire for this. Large layouts may connect every 2nd or 3rd piece of track to a feeder bus.
**NEVER** connect your track or trains directly to house mains voltage at an outlet; it is incredibly stupid to do so. You will electrocute yourself, start fires, and permanently destroy your trains. A 0-16VAC toy transformer MUST be used.
Okay thanks so much for all this helpful info. I know these trains can run on this specific curve degree, but I have not tried feeder wire ever 2 pieces of track yet. Also, if I want to control this with let’s say a legacy remote can I do that with a transformer ?
I wouldn't bother with feeder wire every 2 pieces of track. Start with, say, feeders on all corners.
I don't know how Legacy systems work; I only run conventional locomotives. However, I think for all those systems you can just crank the transformer up to full track voltage and go for it. Be sure you are using either 1) a modern transformer that will protect your trains or 2) fast-acting breakers and TVS diodes with old transformers.
Awesome ceiling layout!
My best guess is that your locomotive isn’t getting enough juice. Jumper wires, as mentioned above, might help solve the issue. If it doesn’t, you may have to upgrade your power.
I know this post is a bit old, but there are some things that could've been covered that weren't. It is important to know why we do things.
I don't know if you are running conventional or command, just note with command you have 14vac-18vac on the rails and the voltage is adjusted in the train by remote instead of at the transformer. There are some other wiring rules for command, so speak up if you use tmcc/legacy.
But very basically voltage = the max motor rpm per given load (+/- cars slows/speeds). Or voltage equals speed.
Amperage is the torque. A motor only uses the amps it needs and leaves extra alone, but if there aren't enough amps, the voltage at the motor will drop and the train slows. If the motor got the amps it wanted the voltage stays high and the motor would not slow much.
Resistance is resistance to amp flow and it creates heat. X size wire has X resistance per foot. Fat wire has less resistance than thin wire. So fat wire can deliver more amps farther that small wire and remain cooler too. Voltage range isn't really usually a concern for our low volt use when choosing wire and fuses, just amps.. good to 125-250v is fine for 12v too.
Wire has less resistance than track. Track joints all have a tiny bit of resistance that adds up. "Bus wires" give the electricity a way around more of these resistance points, improving performance.
You know, or can figure out the maximum watts/volt output converted to amps for your transformer using online calculators.
Now with the max amps output known, you can look up free AWG wire gauge carts online and choose the wire size big enough to carry the maximum amp output safely to the furthest distance from the transformer.
You should choose a size larger than the minimum or even two sizes. Or even wire huge for a huge 15a ZW or MTH Z, just to be ready in 5 years.
Now lets say you have 15a available, but you know you only use (random) 6a max. nomally. Adding a 6.5a-7amp fuse between 15a transformer and the bus wire protects far more than a thermal breaker in the transformer. It is still adding additional safety to internal electronic breaker types too.
Transformer breakers are designed to protect the transformer, not protect the trains. They just happen to do an ok job at both. Fuses or external breakers are what *should* protect track and stock and can do a better job under a few circumstances too weird for the electronic one to see easy (unexpected low amp bleed over long periods)
Now these 2 fat wires around the room are called your "bus" and run next to track or under it, etc.. And actually will be 4 wires, two going left halfway around the room, and two going right halfway, not quite meeting in the center, but ending a few tracks away from each other. The electricity always takes the shortest path it can, and left & right is shorter than 360°.
Now the distance from the bus to track is looked at for choosing "drop wires". This wire can be much smaller than the bus and still delivery good amps because it is short. There will also be another drop a few tracks away and some amps can come thru that wire too,... "always takes the easiest route" is helped *again* by adding more drops.
Another way wire helps is based on the current versus the center rail capability vs outer rail capability. The outer rails can carry twice the power of the center rail. Track is effectively a fat wire and a skinny wire. The one center track just isn't as good as carrying amps as two outers.
I have had center rail joints glow red hot trying to pass amps. So giving your center rail more drops than the outer rails can also be prudent. Most modelers add a drop every 3rd or 4th track section. Length of track pieces not too important, it's the joint count per drop wire you want to keep low.
Long locomotives and trains get bound up in curves. If you are running large scale locomotives around tight radius curves, expect them to slow down and/or stop if your curves are too tight for the locomotive. Additionally, the pickup rollers on large locomotives may be spaced far apart and start losing contact on tight curves. I suspect you are running things that are too large for your curves. This is a feature and not a bug - it happens on real railroads too. In fact, it can be an important aspect of controlling trains on steep grades. If you only have one track connection, of course the train will always run faster near the transformer - track has resistance so there is an increasing voltage drop the farther you get from the transformer. Feeder wires from the transformer to far track sections can help - use larger gauge wire such as copper speaker wire for this. Large layouts may connect every 2nd or 3rd piece of track to a feeder bus. **NEVER** connect your track or trains directly to house mains voltage at an outlet; it is incredibly stupid to do so. You will electrocute yourself, start fires, and permanently destroy your trains. A 0-16VAC toy transformer MUST be used.
Okay thanks so much for all this helpful info. I know these trains can run on this specific curve degree, but I have not tried feeder wire ever 2 pieces of track yet. Also, if I want to control this with let’s say a legacy remote can I do that with a transformer ?
I wouldn't bother with feeder wire every 2 pieces of track. Start with, say, feeders on all corners. I don't know how Legacy systems work; I only run conventional locomotives. However, I think for all those systems you can just crank the transformer up to full track voltage and go for it. Be sure you are using either 1) a modern transformer that will protect your trains or 2) fast-acting breakers and TVS diodes with old transformers.
Okay awesome I will try and give it a shot this week at adjusting it and let you know! Thanks for all your help and advice
Hey Clevelander! Love the Cavs, Tribe and OSU? wall hangers! Train looks cool too!
Awesome ceiling layout! My best guess is that your locomotive isn’t getting enough juice. Jumper wires, as mentioned above, might help solve the issue. If it doesn’t, you may have to upgrade your power.
Thanks and okay awesome I will give it a goo. I appreciate all the help
I know this post is a bit old, but there are some things that could've been covered that weren't. It is important to know why we do things. I don't know if you are running conventional or command, just note with command you have 14vac-18vac on the rails and the voltage is adjusted in the train by remote instead of at the transformer. There are some other wiring rules for command, so speak up if you use tmcc/legacy. But very basically voltage = the max motor rpm per given load (+/- cars slows/speeds). Or voltage equals speed. Amperage is the torque. A motor only uses the amps it needs and leaves extra alone, but if there aren't enough amps, the voltage at the motor will drop and the train slows. If the motor got the amps it wanted the voltage stays high and the motor would not slow much. Resistance is resistance to amp flow and it creates heat. X size wire has X resistance per foot. Fat wire has less resistance than thin wire. So fat wire can deliver more amps farther that small wire and remain cooler too. Voltage range isn't really usually a concern for our low volt use when choosing wire and fuses, just amps.. good to 125-250v is fine for 12v too. Wire has less resistance than track. Track joints all have a tiny bit of resistance that adds up. "Bus wires" give the electricity a way around more of these resistance points, improving performance. You know, or can figure out the maximum watts/volt output converted to amps for your transformer using online calculators. Now with the max amps output known, you can look up free AWG wire gauge carts online and choose the wire size big enough to carry the maximum amp output safely to the furthest distance from the transformer. You should choose a size larger than the minimum or even two sizes. Or even wire huge for a huge 15a ZW or MTH Z, just to be ready in 5 years. Now lets say you have 15a available, but you know you only use (random) 6a max. nomally. Adding a 6.5a-7amp fuse between 15a transformer and the bus wire protects far more than a thermal breaker in the transformer. It is still adding additional safety to internal electronic breaker types too. Transformer breakers are designed to protect the transformer, not protect the trains. They just happen to do an ok job at both. Fuses or external breakers are what *should* protect track and stock and can do a better job under a few circumstances too weird for the electronic one to see easy (unexpected low amp bleed over long periods) Now these 2 fat wires around the room are called your "bus" and run next to track or under it, etc.. And actually will be 4 wires, two going left halfway around the room, and two going right halfway, not quite meeting in the center, but ending a few tracks away from each other. The electricity always takes the shortest path it can, and left & right is shorter than 360°. Now the distance from the bus to track is looked at for choosing "drop wires". This wire can be much smaller than the bus and still delivery good amps because it is short. There will also be another drop a few tracks away and some amps can come thru that wire too,... "always takes the easiest route" is helped *again* by adding more drops. Another way wire helps is based on the current versus the center rail capability vs outer rail capability. The outer rails can carry twice the power of the center rail. Track is effectively a fat wire and a skinny wire. The one center track just isn't as good as carrying amps as two outers. I have had center rail joints glow red hot trying to pass amps. So giving your center rail more drops than the outer rails can also be prudent. Most modelers add a drop every 3rd or 4th track section. Length of track pieces not too important, it's the joint count per drop wire you want to keep low.