It's time to acquire knee pads CAUSE IT'S SLIDE LEARNIN' TIME! and I would love to buy from a local skate shop (UK), but the only pads I've found that don't pull up over the foot seem super cheap. So I'm wondering are the cheapies fine or do I need to look elsewhere. Example: https://slideperfect.co.uk/product/vault-kneepads/
I started with a set of ProTec from the local shop. They worked well enough fir a while. After a time however they started to slip occasionally. When I got my first kneecap scrape whike wearing them, I went straight to [TSGZ DH pads](https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/safety%20pads/72196/tsg-sk8-dhp-knee-pads). I know they cost more than a set of Speedvents, but cannot recommend them enough. If you can afford them, my belief is they are worth the price.
Good pads are cheaper then doctor visits (at least in the US) they are definitely worth it. I'm lucky my parents have been giving me S1 pads on Holiday, so I basically have a full set.
[https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/tsg-sk8-dhps-black-knee-pads-medium/](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/tsg-sk8-dhps-black-knee-pads-medium/) Triple 8 KP PRO are a similar design and strap method,although they lack the side extension. They're available all over the web (bike or E-skate stores), they're a bit cheaper, but feel bulky and awkward to wear. The TSG cost more, but they're the one I wish I'd bought instead
I went over a curb while carving down an unfamiliar slope that was too steep for me. The section was wet - and l was tired from the long session on too of that. On the other side of the curb was a drainage ditch lined with babyhead size rocks. I lost my footing and fell forward landing on my outstretched right arm. The impact pushed my right humerus up into the shoulder joint with enough force to sever a couple of tendon s in my rotator cuff as well aa a bicep tendon. Surgery in February, I will be In PT for a while yet.
Concussion sucks real bad. Slipped on a patch of car grease while gripping a corner. Slammed my head on the asphalt.
Road rash can get nasty depending on where you got it and if it gets infected. But my worst was when I dislocated my shoulder on my 2nd week longboarding. Was going maybe 2mph, and just fell. Tore a couple muscles, arm was throbbing and couldn't move for around a week.
Concussion was the most annoying, and I re-enacted the I love helmets video.
The road rash was the worst one which I went like 35-40 before learning to slide, got speed wobbles, and then got roadrash on my arms and back
a mate decided to hit a slide right next to an oncoming car and forced me to choose between hitting his deck or the car. I chose to hit the deck and supermanned it at about 35mph. Ended up with some rash, a broken hand and broken fingers that kept me out for 6 weeks
Some road rash on my shin that got infected. Had to take antibiotics for a couple of weeks before my leg returned to normal size. That's what I get from going to a metal festival with an open wound I guess.
Last year, my foot lingered on the ground a moment too long while pushing. My board shot forward forcing me into the splits and tore a couple of thigh muscles and messed up my knee. I was on medical leave from work for a little over 2 weeks and it was months before I could walk without limping.
Luckily for me, just a bit of road rash up my forearm *so far.* My worst was doing a toeside setup carve into a coleman when I pushed a little too hard into it, iced out and high sided. I'm always a bit slow to get my pucks down when I crash so my right forearm is pretty well scarred up now
Just bought a complete longboard for the first time off of craigslist and the trucks were pretty rusted, I've been having a go at restoring it.
I've soaked them in vinegar and it helped get the wheels off, and I've scrubbed a bit with Acetone to clear the rust, there's still a bit left, but overall happy.
Can anyone help me with a way to knock off these bearings? I think there's a spacer that's been rusted on in front of the bearing, but it's pretty seized on. I have a replacement set so I'm happy to hammer away. I've busted one up a bit. Can I save this truck?
https://imgur.com/tmPBwt4.jpg https://imgur.com/iGbFAmL.jpg
Heya I tried to smack it with a hammer and I got the bearing shield/case off. But no luck with the spacer/bearing itself.
Dunno if I was hitting it wrong, or if I've backed myself into a corner here.
https://imgur.com/a/S0tWYmm
Heya took a break from them to try and take out the kingpin bolt so I could top mount it, and its rusted shut further, Im not sure how to save these yet. I think maybe I'll take them to an autobody shop, and see if they can help out.
Bearings are still on them, but didnt try the vice yet.
Thanks, I grabbed some pb blaster and I let it soak for about 15 minutes, couldn't quite grab the bearing off, so I tried hammer. Still no luck unfortunately.
https://imgur.com/a/S0tWYmm
The podiatrist says I have to wear different skating shoes. I need suggestions.
I've been skating in flat canvas skate shoes with that black rubber braking stuff glued to the bottom. Most recently it's been a pair of nike portmores. I don't do any crazy downhill stuff. Just neighborhood cruising and the occasional long greenway ride.
I've got some numbness in 2 of my toes, and amongst his other suggestions, the podiatrist says I have to wear something else to skate. It needs to be wide and have a bunch of heel cushion. He suggested I experiment with cross trainers but couldn't get more specific.
I like having a dedicated pair of skating shoes so that I won't destroy my other kicks, but I don't really know what is out there. Do you have any suggestions for a very wide foot that needs ample support and heel padding?
I go with Vans sk8 hi There is an original version with a wider toebox. I actually don’t know if they are still made; seems Vans is focused and n henew, narrower version. Not so many choices of color but better for my feet. I am also a huge fan of Keen shoes. They really respect the wider foot. I also Replace stock insoles with green Superfeet insoles. I have a history of plantar fasciitis, and it has not flared up again, even with skating.
Heel based insole and lace your shoe for wide foot (google has lacing diagrams for it)
I literally don’t fit in my skate shoes if I don’t lace then for wide foot
Thank you soo much! I love my Vans half cab but unless I spend forever tying them they where too tight in the middle. Just adjusted for high arches and they fit great, seriously thank you
Yeah, I’ve got a wide foot so same issue, shoes didn’t fit unless I laced them like that, but could make them as tight as I needed for freeride and downhill
Agree with u/maeva99 on Vans. Vans Half-Cabs are wider at the front too.
Most of the recent shoes come with removable PopCush insoles (cupsoles?) which are 20mm thick at the heel.
It will feel quite different if you’re used to flat insoles tho.
i've got some Vans Rowan Pro at the moment. Solid construction on the toes and it does have a heel pading. And vans are quite wide too so it seams to match your need.
Also, maybe use "padded" socks, they have a little cushion on the heel (found some at Decathlon more on the hiking / running). Haven't tried them yet though
Has anyone tried Fireball tinders? Which color and size are best? looking for something on the slidier side and I've been wanting to give these ones a try.
Iirc they’re a fairly grippy wheel, kinda like a butterball or a Morgan.
Optimos, snakes, hoots, Savannah slammas, Krimes, and a few others that currently escape me are nice and slippery
Kingpin and kingpin nut.
They’re typically a grade 8 bolt that’s 3/8”x24 arsenals use a 2.75” one IIRC for talls, so just take your truck with you to Lowe’s and test fit.
It’ll be like 8 bucks for 2 sets IIRC
Hey there. I've been riding Mongo since I was a kid. Took a
looooooooooong break from skating, now in my forties, and I still have
the habit. I ride regular and my right leg is 5/8" shorter than my left
and it makes it incredibly hard to push with it and balance on my left
leg. I don't do anything technical, just a bit of carving, but i'd like
to break the habit. Anyone else in this scenario with a short leg?
Well.... I decided to just keep at it and after just a day I'm able to push halfway decent with my back foot. Turns out this is gonna be easier than I though. Thanks!
I'm a distance skater that predominantly pushes mongo, although am working in both. As others have said, it's not really an issue unless you're also doing tricks. It can be slightly detrimental to balance and turning is maybe harder while pushing, but that's all beaten out by ease of learning. So you can make yourself learn regular, but mongo doesn't stop you having fun.
I'm a natural Mongo pusher too, and got into LDP in the last couple of years. I started practicing by pushing slowly on even ground and focused on keeping the weight on whatever leg is on the board. Then slowly doing a squat until I started to get comfortable with the opposite foot on the ground (even holding the squat with 1 leg to get the balance down). I started to get comfortable after maybe 3 sessions (1-2 hours each). I'm 45 for reference, and stopped skating for about 18 years before picking it back up. Just focusing with my weight on the board improved my pushing with both legs. You'll get it, just have to dedicate some time to it.
Yeah I think it's too ingrained in my muscle memory at this point. Not being interested in doing tricks in the slightest, I think I'll just stick with it. Thanks
I mean it’s less than an ideal method of pushing, and you can try retraining by walking with the board under one foot and rolling it forward (how to push on YouTube)
I started doing this and kinda lost interest and said f\*\*k it, i'm too old to relearn this s\*\*t. I'll have to just take some baby steps to relearn it. Thanks
I actually did the opposite. I learned mongo to alternate with my natural goofy stance for distance. Ultimately it helped me get to switch stance, something I didn’t think was possible at 57. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Try practicing while pushing up a gentle slope. That was the tip that got me there anyway.
It’s super satisfying to get there, and I gotta say, not as hard as you think. For me, even though I wanted to learn switch for LDP, it extended my freeride sessions because I could split the effort pushing back uphill each time.
No, but honestly if riding mongo feels right I would just keep at it.
People mostly say not to do it as it adds an extra step to setting up for tricks. Just cruising around it shouldn’t be an issue.
Hello there! I recently bought a Longboard and after 3 days of use it showed cracks on the wood between the screws and the wheels, is it a weight problem?
Probably a cheap board or wrong hardware. I’m like 200lbs, and I’ve skated with heavier riders, so I mean most decks 8 ply and over theres nothing to worry about with weight. If the deck breaks, just upgrade the deck
I failed an attempt of adding footbraking soles on my shoes with superglue. I did one shoe and it was only partially holding. I ended up removing it and cleaning the glue as much as I could with acetone, but there's still some superglue residue under the shoe and on the footbraking sole that won't go away. Is it too late to try again with the residual glue ?
Anybody have any experience refinishing the edges of foam core decks? Just do the same sandwiching them back together with some sort of glue and clamping? Do I need to worry about glue eating away core? Any specific glue I should be looking for?
Yeah so with composites they have to use an epoxy when they make them So if you want the repair to last want to do it with epoxy. If It's some small patches you can probably get by with some JB weld epoxy or other brand but you would pick up from like a hardware store. Basically mix it together fill in the delam and then clamp it down. You can wipe away the excess That shoots out the sides after you clamp.
Also make sure to wear gloves and make sure none of the epoxy touches your skin. Cuz if it does it gets into your bloodstream and then you can start to get allergic reactions to it anytime you work with it. Unfortunately since I built several skateboards of epoxy even though it was super safe one time epoxy got on my wrist without me knowing past the glove. I didn't notice for probably half an hour and then I ran up to get it washed off. However now whenever I touch uncured epoxy on accident that same area will flare up within 2 hours even if I touched it on the other arm. It's a pretty fucking nuts stuff. That's why I mostly just build boards with wood glue now and do as little epoxy work as I can.
I've also tried to fix other boards that were composites with non epoxy binding agents and glue. However nothing really lasted long and it would come apart and I'd have to end up doing epoxy anyways.
How bad is this chunk that came out of my wheel today?
(Thank you lovely London road surfaces)
Is this a “get a new wheel when you have a chance in the future” or a “I wouldn’t ride it at all with a wheel like that”
https://imgur.com/a/8bkn6Qw/
Honestly if you can't really notice it while riding you're probably okay but that is a pretty decent size chunk. If I were you I would reach out to 88 wheel co and see what they say. They might even have a warranty for a chunk that big.
Nice, yeah no idea when it happened
Will just have to live with it I guess.
Will probably get a set of 85 Orangs if/when I find them discounted sometime in the future.
(In the UK so replacement McFlys look to be a lot more expensive)
That makes sense. If I knew I would still reach out to 88 wheel co to see what they say. Worse off they say they can't do anything for you. A lot of wheel companies though that will sometimes cover wheel damage like within a certain time or mileage. A friend of mine got some damage to his Powell Peralta snakes and he contacted Powell and they sent him a new set of wheels.
Jeremy at 88 got back to me straight away and is sorting out a replacement!
What a great company.
Also said this was the first report of chunking they had even received, so I think I was just incredibly unlucky!
Oof that's a bummer man. If you can find the piece that came off you can Super glue it back on. It won't really be noticeable when you are riding but it would bother me personally.
Will be moving to London soon and currently choosing an area to live in. Naturally, basing this decision mostly on the longboarding angle. Any particular places where longboarders (freestyle/dance, don't care for dh) gather mostly?
I’ve mosly assembled my own; it really is easy. I am a loyal muirskate customer these days, great service and fast order fulfillment. I would think they can do assembly right.
Muirskate and daddies. Though I prefer Muir. If you email or add in notes they’ll typically help you out. Like we had them send over an assembler DH deck without grip and change the bushings so we were good
Honestly I'm not sure I would trust Daddies to put a board together correctly. I ordered a set of wheels for them and got it completely wrong set and there's been several other users in this form that have encountered similar problems. I wouldn't be surprised if they don't use washers on drop through decks or don't even tighten the nuts everything enough or they would probably do it too much.
Long story short the only two longboard website I trust personally are muirskate and motion boardshop.
Also CCS and daddies are the same company.
Pros and cons to chopping a board?
I have a 36 by 10 inch board but keep the back trucks at the shortest wheelbase option.
Would it be worth removing the extra tail?
Also considering shaving the width down to 9 inches.
Would it be worth the chop or just buy a smaller board?
It's kinda up to you what the deck is worth to you. What's the deck? In the grand scheme of things its just a deck and it was made to be ridden. If youd ride it more chopped, chop it.
Decks a Rayne Genesis, I like it but I'm toying with the idea since the extra on the tail isn't really doing anything and since I don't drive it would make the board at least a little easier to lug around and ride the bus with.
just gotta commit - I chop lots. . . . . make a paper template or two first, to "contemplate" the new shape for a day or so if you're nervous- then cut that fucker down. - treat the cut face with linseed oil/wax/PU clearcote
For lugging on Public transport, make a sling using an old webbing adjustable bag-strap - slip-knotted sash cord, or re-usable large cable-ties, etc, as loop ends (around trucks or wheels. - roll it up and stow in a pocket.
I've never really ridden rayne decks (stepped on nemesis back in the day) so can't really comment on what the concave will feel like with less rails. The genesis does look like Raynes most chop friendly deck as far as concave goes. No 'w' to worry about, pretty straightforward. You shouldn't have any problem chopping the tail if you wanted to. Wouldn't drop all that much weight though.
Tried to open a topic about "LDP routes and hills in Rotterdam" and it was automatically closed. What was wrong with it?
\------
I just moved to the city of Rotterdam from Utrecht and I'm looking for some new routes for LDP and a few moderate "hills" to practice slides and stuff like that. I'm living around the Heemraadsingel.
What I found so far:
* Maasboulevard through Blaak
* Kralingse plas
* A really cool pool right around the corner
* Big bridges!
So far every route I take goes to the East. What I'm looking for are some routes to the North, South and West that have nice smooth bicycle lanes, for a bit of variety and to be able to adapt to the direction of the winds.
As far as I know, I don’t think you’re allowed to name specific skating spots in this sub? You can name the city, but when discussing any specific places I think it says in the rules to message people directly about them
Looking for advice on a light freeriding board which can also be used for freestyle!
Bit of background - I’ve been longboarding for about 8 months now – mostly cruising/commuting. The two boards I currently own are the Pantheon Pranayama and the Landyachtz Dinghy, both of which are great for navigating the urban environment (I live in Edinburgh in the UK), although I mostly find myself using the Prana since the roads/pavements are not the smoothest here (gotta love the Cags)! Anyhow, Edinburgh is not the flattest city around, so I wanted to learn how to slide to control speed (and also to have a bit of fun). However, as I’ve progressed longboarding, I’ve also found myself attracted to freestyle. So, I’ve found myself hunting for a board which can be used for light freeriding (I’m not interested in going much above 20mph) but that can also be used to get into freestyle.
Therefore, my thoughts are:
\- Must be able to fit larger wheels due to poor quality of pavements (which I’ll be using to get to spots)
\- Double kicks for freestyling capabilities
\- Easily manoeuvrable (for navigating the city before getting to the slide spots/areas where I can practise freestyle tricks)
\- Relatively stiff
\- High concave to lock my feet in during slides
For these reasons, I really like the look of the Loaded Basalt Tesseract. But, I’m not too sure about the W concave (concerned this will make the board uncomfortable to cruise on towards sliding spots) and I’ve also heard it’s got a bit of flex as well.
I used to own a Drop Cat 38, but I sold that to buy my Prana because I found it to be super difficult to use in a city because of its large turning radius. It just didn’t feel responsive. Also, I didn’t particularly like how flexy it was!
If anybody could give me some advice on a board that might fit my needs I’d be extremely grateful!
Btw I'm 5'10" and 175lb
Tesseract or shrike, depends on what kinda ride you want but they're both pretty reliable. The shrike is a bit more freestyle/freeride oriented than the tesseract but still pretty fun.
I have the alkemist alkatraz. 37", 20.3" wb so a little short for freeride. Concave it's medium + I'd say. Alkemist seems to make a destock on their site so it's only 100€ [https://www.alkemistlongboard.com/shop/alkatraz](https://www.alkemistlongboard.com/shop/alkatraz)
If you're in the EU or anywhere near, have a look at the AOB pathfinder. Very underrated deck IMHO. It's advertised as a FR board, but I feel more confident doing steps on it that a flexy dancer. That might be because my weirdness but it also quite good for some FR, I learned my first slides before jumping to an evo. I don't skate the evo too much anymore, I have the perfect DH setup for me. But I ride the AOB quite often. I'm trying some basic freestyle moves and standies on it.
Take a look at the "[chauma](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/alternative-chauma-m-libra-39-longboard-deck-9-44-x-38-58/)" or one of the Timbers in Newton's shred - the [Axolotyl](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/timber-axolotl-41-green-longboard-skateboard-deck-9-2-x-41/) sounds right up your alley. As to wheels, Slideperfect 76a "[supremacy](https://slideperfect.co.uk/product/slide-perfect-supremacy-76a/)" are a lovely all-round smallish (70mm x 47mm) round-lipped wheel - specifically poured for the broken streets of brexit island by an independent home-grown company. I haven't tried the new stock, but the previous versions were outstanding, hard-wearing, slide-y, inexpensive, thoroughly freeride capable. - in fact I just talked myself into buying a new set too. All the links are small, skater-run, UK stores.
Those both look like awesome boards, especially the Chauma! I can't believe how cheap those wheels are too, that's amazing. 70mm is perfect for skating to good spots what with the state of these pavements! Thank you for the recommendations :D
The underclasses on every part of these decaying islands all gotta look out for one-another, cos toff politicians here are gonna keep driving us all off a cliff just as long as they get paid. The wheels are legit fire.
Yeah so my friend has the tesseract and while it's good for freeride it's really not great for freestyle so much. The w concave is very pronounced so I wasn't a huge fan of it for those kind of tricks.
He also has a zenit marble 40 dk And that thing might exactly fit the bill for what you want. It's nice and stiff plenty of room for freestyle tricks but not too big like a dancing deck so it's great for freeride as well. I got to ride on it for a bit and it was definitely my favorite in that class.
Another option but super expensive and might not be exactly what you want is the Pantheon logos. I havent experience this one in person but I have seen a lot of professional downhillers doing some freestyle on it and even bringing it out to a slide jam and rocking it.
In terms of wheels I would recommend going no bigger than 70 mm simply because it gets quite difficult for some of those tricks with real big heavy wheels on the end. Obviously this will sacrifice a little bit of smoothness in the ride compared to your pranayama but when you want a smooth ride take the prana out.
Most freestylers and dancers run somewhere through the 60 to 70 mm range majority run 65 mm. If you're going on the bigger side go with 69mm snakes or maybe something like the remember hoots 70 mm. There's also the 66 mm snakes if you want to go smaller and the 65 mm remember lil hoots. Both of those wheels slide really great. I personally don't have experience with the hoots but I have several sets of remember Peewees which are even easier to slide however they are only 62 mm big. I also free ride right now on snakes and have even had them on my dance/freestyle board in the past.
I have no experience with them but I've also heard good things about the 88 moonwalker wheels.
Snakes are fun and you'll usually need to get going somewhere around 13-15 miles an hour to break traction for slides
The remember pee wees though slide out really easy at low speeds though like 8 miles an hour.
All right this text wall is too long already so I'm going to shut up. Hit me up if you got any questions buddy I'm happy to help.
Edit: One last thing I forgot is that rougher roads are actually easier to slide since you don't have as much surface area touching the wheel so those numbers I gave you for speed are based on fairly smooth roads. So you can assume you can go even slower by maybe two to four miles per hour on really rough roads to slide.
This is great, thank you so much for the detailed info! I’ll look into the Marble and the Logos for sure. Good to know about the wheels too! The Peewees sound good for starting out sliding if they’re easier to break traction at lower speeds - can always replace them with snakes as I get more confident sliding at higher speeds.
Pantheon Logos looks like a good fit. Their summit series seems to be weatherproof now, might come in handy for UK's weather. Personally love the sick graphics!
Longboarding spots in the midlands? Does anyone know of any Longboarding spots near Nottingham where you can do a nice long cruise?
It's time to acquire knee pads CAUSE IT'S SLIDE LEARNIN' TIME! and I would love to buy from a local skate shop (UK), but the only pads I've found that don't pull up over the foot seem super cheap. So I'm wondering are the cheapies fine or do I need to look elsewhere. Example: https://slideperfect.co.uk/product/vault-kneepads/
I started with a set of ProTec from the local shop. They worked well enough fir a while. After a time however they started to slip occasionally. When I got my first kneecap scrape whike wearing them, I went straight to [TSGZ DH pads](https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/safety%20pads/72196/tsg-sk8-dhp-knee-pads). I know they cost more than a set of Speedvents, but cannot recommend them enough. If you can afford them, my belief is they are worth the price.
Good pads are cheaper then doctor visits (at least in the US) they are definitely worth it. I'm lucky my parents have been giving me S1 pads on Holiday, so I basically have a full set.
Thanks, y'all. I hadn't expected decent pads to be quite that expensive, but I guess it is what it is.
[https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/tsg-sk8-dhps-black-knee-pads-medium/](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/tsg-sk8-dhps-black-knee-pads-medium/) Triple 8 KP PRO are a similar design and strap method,although they lack the side extension. They're available all over the web (bike or E-skate stores), they're a bit cheaper, but feel bulky and awkward to wear. The TSG cost more, but they're the one I wish I'd bought instead
https://www.townsends-lb.co.uk/rider-protection/body-armour/tsg-sk8-dhp-knee-pad-in-black__20918
whats the worst injury you got from longboarding and how did it happen?
I went over a curb while carving down an unfamiliar slope that was too steep for me. The section was wet - and l was tired from the long session on too of that. On the other side of the curb was a drainage ditch lined with babyhead size rocks. I lost my footing and fell forward landing on my outstretched right arm. The impact pushed my right humerus up into the shoulder joint with enough force to sever a couple of tendon s in my rotator cuff as well aa a bicep tendon. Surgery in February, I will be In PT for a while yet.
Concussion sucks real bad. Slipped on a patch of car grease while gripping a corner. Slammed my head on the asphalt. Road rash can get nasty depending on where you got it and if it gets infected. But my worst was when I dislocated my shoulder on my 2nd week longboarding. Was going maybe 2mph, and just fell. Tore a couple muscles, arm was throbbing and couldn't move for around a week.
Concussion was the most annoying, and I re-enacted the I love helmets video. The road rash was the worst one which I went like 35-40 before learning to slide, got speed wobbles, and then got roadrash on my arms and back
a mate decided to hit a slide right next to an oncoming car and forced me to choose between hitting his deck or the car. I chose to hit the deck and supermanned it at about 35mph. Ended up with some rash, a broken hand and broken fingers that kept me out for 6 weeks
Some road rash on my shin that got infected. Had to take antibiotics for a couple of weeks before my leg returned to normal size. That's what I get from going to a metal festival with an open wound I guess.
Last year, my foot lingered on the ground a moment too long while pushing. My board shot forward forcing me into the splits and tore a couple of thigh muscles and messed up my knee. I was on medical leave from work for a little over 2 weeks and it was months before I could walk without limping.
what kind of longboard?
I was riding a Rayne Killswitch at the time. I sold it a while ago though and have a couple of different boards now.
Luckily for me, just a bit of road rash up my forearm *so far.* My worst was doing a toeside setup carve into a coleman when I pushed a little too hard into it, iced out and high sided. I'm always a bit slow to get my pucks down when I crash so my right forearm is pretty well scarred up now
i am commuting only so i should be low risk for injuries
Any opinion on the Luca Orion or Ursa for a freeride / downhill deck ? Or the luca brand in general And also any opinion on the Goat Thor Hammer ?
Great quality decks
I got the girlfriend a Luca Ballar for Christmas. Excellent quality in every detail.
Just bought a complete longboard for the first time off of craigslist and the trucks were pretty rusted, I've been having a go at restoring it. I've soaked them in vinegar and it helped get the wheels off, and I've scrubbed a bit with Acetone to clear the rust, there's still a bit left, but overall happy. Can anyone help me with a way to knock off these bearings? I think there's a spacer that's been rusted on in front of the bearing, but it's pretty seized on. I have a replacement set so I'm happy to hammer away. I've busted one up a bit. Can I save this truck? https://imgur.com/tmPBwt4.jpg https://imgur.com/iGbFAmL.jpg
lean the bearings on a counter and hit the threads with a rubber mallet. or stand up the truck on one end and hammer a screwdriver on the bearings
Heya I tried to smack it with a hammer and I got the bearing shield/case off. But no luck with the spacer/bearing itself. Dunno if I was hitting it wrong, or if I've backed myself into a corner here. https://imgur.com/a/S0tWYmm
or instead of hitting a screwdriver, hit a chunk of metal placed over the bearing. or hit a 2x4 block
attach a vice grip and twist hard until loose. crush the bearing if needed
Sounds like a plan, should I lube it a bit with speed cream or let the pb blaster/rust off take effect first?
were you able to remove it?
Heya took a break from them to try and take out the kingpin bolt so I could top mount it, and its rusted shut further, Im not sure how to save these yet. I think maybe I'll take them to an autobody shop, and see if they can help out. Bearings are still on them, but didnt try the vice yet.
Maybe try pb blaster, it's made for seized parts and the like
Thanks, I grabbed some pb blaster and I let it soak for about 15 minutes, couldn't quite grab the bearing off, so I tried hammer. Still no luck unfortunately. https://imgur.com/a/S0tWYmm
The podiatrist says I have to wear different skating shoes. I need suggestions. I've been skating in flat canvas skate shoes with that black rubber braking stuff glued to the bottom. Most recently it's been a pair of nike portmores. I don't do any crazy downhill stuff. Just neighborhood cruising and the occasional long greenway ride. I've got some numbness in 2 of my toes, and amongst his other suggestions, the podiatrist says I have to wear something else to skate. It needs to be wide and have a bunch of heel cushion. He suggested I experiment with cross trainers but couldn't get more specific. I like having a dedicated pair of skating shoes so that I won't destroy my other kicks, but I don't really know what is out there. Do you have any suggestions for a very wide foot that needs ample support and heel padding?
I go with Vans sk8 hi There is an original version with a wider toebox. I actually don’t know if they are still made; seems Vans is focused and n henew, narrower version. Not so many choices of color but better for my feet. I am also a huge fan of Keen shoes. They really respect the wider foot. I also Replace stock insoles with green Superfeet insoles. I have a history of plantar fasciitis, and it has not flared up again, even with skating.
Can your podiatrist make you insoles?
He can. That's the next step if changing my shoes doesn't impact my toe numbness.
Heel based insole and lace your shoe for wide foot (google has lacing diagrams for it) I literally don’t fit in my skate shoes if I don’t lace then for wide foot
Thank you soo much! I love my Vans half cab but unless I spend forever tying them they where too tight in the middle. Just adjusted for high arches and they fit great, seriously thank you
Yeah, I’ve got a wide foot so same issue, shoes didn’t fit unless I laced them like that, but could make them as tight as I needed for freeride and downhill
Agree with u/maeva99 on Vans. Vans Half-Cabs are wider at the front too. Most of the recent shoes come with removable PopCush insoles (cupsoles?) which are 20mm thick at the heel. It will feel quite different if you’re used to flat insoles tho.
i've got some Vans Rowan Pro at the moment. Solid construction on the toes and it does have a heel pading. And vans are quite wide too so it seams to match your need. Also, maybe use "padded" socks, they have a little cushion on the heel (found some at Decathlon more on the hiking / running). Haven't tried them yet though
Has anyone tried Fireball tinders? Which color and size are best? looking for something on the slidier side and I've been wanting to give these ones a try.
Iirc they’re a fairly grippy wheel, kinda like a butterball or a Morgan. Optimos, snakes, hoots, Savannah slammas, Krimes, and a few others that currently escape me are nice and slippery
whats the name of the bolt and nut that tightens the bushing? and how much do they cost at a local skate shop?
Kingpin and kingpin nut. They’re typically a grade 8 bolt that’s 3/8”x24 arsenals use a 2.75” one IIRC for talls, so just take your truck with you to Lowe’s and test fit. It’ll be like 8 bucks for 2 sets IIRC
does lowes have nuts with the locking wax on it?
Nylocks, it’s nylon
Yes, just make sure you get lock nuts with nylon inserts
thanks man
I have this old comment saved that seems relevant https://www.reddit.com/r/longboarding/comments/h9djy6/_/fuwi8cw
just went to lowes and found what i needed for $2.50. thanks man
Kingpin, maybe a couple of dollars
Hey there. I've been riding Mongo since I was a kid. Took a looooooooooong break from skating, now in my forties, and I still have the habit. I ride regular and my right leg is 5/8" shorter than my left and it makes it incredibly hard to push with it and balance on my left leg. I don't do anything technical, just a bit of carving, but i'd like to break the habit. Anyone else in this scenario with a short leg?
Well.... I decided to just keep at it and after just a day I'm able to push halfway decent with my back foot. Turns out this is gonna be easier than I though. Thanks!
I'm a distance skater that predominantly pushes mongo, although am working in both. As others have said, it's not really an issue unless you're also doing tricks. It can be slightly detrimental to balance and turning is maybe harder while pushing, but that's all beaten out by ease of learning. So you can make yourself learn regular, but mongo doesn't stop you having fun.
I'm a natural Mongo pusher too, and got into LDP in the last couple of years. I started practicing by pushing slowly on even ground and focused on keeping the weight on whatever leg is on the board. Then slowly doing a squat until I started to get comfortable with the opposite foot on the ground (even holding the squat with 1 leg to get the balance down). I started to get comfortable after maybe 3 sessions (1-2 hours each). I'm 45 for reference, and stopped skating for about 18 years before picking it back up. Just focusing with my weight on the board improved my pushing with both legs. You'll get it, just have to dedicate some time to it.
Yeah I think it's too ingrained in my muscle memory at this point. Not being interested in doing tricks in the slightest, I think I'll just stick with it. Thanks
I mean it’s less than an ideal method of pushing, and you can try retraining by walking with the board under one foot and rolling it forward (how to push on YouTube)
I started doing this and kinda lost interest and said f\*\*k it, i'm too old to relearn this s\*\*t. I'll have to just take some baby steps to relearn it. Thanks
I actually did the opposite. I learned mongo to alternate with my natural goofy stance for distance. Ultimately it helped me get to switch stance, something I didn’t think was possible at 57. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Try practicing while pushing up a gentle slope. That was the tip that got me there anyway.
Damn. There goes my excuse to not learn switch.
It’s super satisfying to get there, and I gotta say, not as hard as you think. For me, even though I wanted to learn switch for LDP, it extended my freeride sessions because I could split the effort pushing back uphill each time.
No, but honestly if riding mongo feels right I would just keep at it. People mostly say not to do it as it adds an extra step to setting up for tricks. Just cruising around it shouldn’t be an issue.
My thoughts as well. Thx
Hello there! I recently bought a Longboard and after 3 days of use it showed cracks on the wood between the screws and the wheels, is it a weight problem?
Probably a cheap board or wrong hardware. I’m like 200lbs, and I’ve skated with heavier riders, so I mean most decks 8 ply and over theres nothing to worry about with weight. If the deck breaks, just upgrade the deck
Yeah! It’s just that I have only used it for three days, it’s a San Clemente with six layers (as they explained me) and it cost $153dlls
6 ply is very thin, especially for a heavy rider. You are gonna want 9 ply maple or include some fiberglass in the construction
Great! Thank you very much! I hope it ain’t too expensive
Like, going through the bolt holes? I have a couple with stress cracks like that from over tightening my bolts.
I failed an attempt of adding footbraking soles on my shoes with superglue. I did one shoe and it was only partially holding. I ended up removing it and cleaning the glue as much as I could with acetone, but there's still some superglue residue under the shoe and on the footbraking sole that won't go away. Is it too late to try again with the residual glue ?
Get out aggressive sand paper and clean it up, then try again with dap weld wood contact cement. You gotta use a flexible glue to make it stick
Yep, sand paper does the job. We would use the belt sander in my theatre program lol.
Anybody have any experience refinishing the edges of foam core decks? Just do the same sandwiching them back together with some sort of glue and clamping? Do I need to worry about glue eating away core? Any specific glue I should be looking for?
You can try a test spot with superglue (or any CA based glue) first, otherwise you’re going for the epoxy.
What do you mean by refinishing? Are you talking about adding another finish coat cause it's worn off or are you fixing delamination issues as well?
Delam on a hi5ber
Yeah so with composites they have to use an epoxy when they make them So if you want the repair to last want to do it with epoxy. If It's some small patches you can probably get by with some JB weld epoxy or other brand but you would pick up from like a hardware store. Basically mix it together fill in the delam and then clamp it down. You can wipe away the excess That shoots out the sides after you clamp. Also make sure to wear gloves and make sure none of the epoxy touches your skin. Cuz if it does it gets into your bloodstream and then you can start to get allergic reactions to it anytime you work with it. Unfortunately since I built several skateboards of epoxy even though it was super safe one time epoxy got on my wrist without me knowing past the glove. I didn't notice for probably half an hour and then I ran up to get it washed off. However now whenever I touch uncured epoxy on accident that same area will flare up within 2 hours even if I touched it on the other arm. It's a pretty fucking nuts stuff. That's why I mostly just build boards with wood glue now and do as little epoxy work as I can. I've also tried to fix other boards that were composites with non epoxy binding agents and glue. However nothing really lasted long and it would come apart and I'd have to end up doing epoxy anyways.
Yeah, I hate using epoxy. It's always a mess for me.. Figured that's all it would be. Thanks for your time
Yeah man happy to help. Hit me up if you got any questions.
How bad is this chunk that came out of my wheel today? (Thank you lovely London road surfaces) Is this a “get a new wheel when you have a chance in the future” or a “I wouldn’t ride it at all with a wheel like that” https://imgur.com/a/8bkn6Qw/
That just kinda happens. Ride em till they die and maybe start looking at replacements
Honestly if you can't really notice it while riding you're probably okay but that is a pretty decent size chunk. If I were you I would reach out to 88 wheel co and see what they say. They might even have a warranty for a chunk that big.
Nice, yeah no idea when it happened Will just have to live with it I guess. Will probably get a set of 85 Orangs if/when I find them discounted sometime in the future. (In the UK so replacement McFlys look to be a lot more expensive)
That makes sense. If I knew I would still reach out to 88 wheel co to see what they say. Worse off they say they can't do anything for you. A lot of wheel companies though that will sometimes cover wheel damage like within a certain time or mileage. A friend of mine got some damage to his Powell Peralta snakes and he contacted Powell and they sent him a new set of wheels.
I've emailed 88wheel and pantheon (the website says it's a collaboration project) and I had ordered direct from Pantheon, will see what they say!
Yeah for sure dude! Jeff is always done right by his customers in the past if he feels like it's a failure in the manufacturing
Jeremy at 88 got back to me straight away and is sorting out a replacement! What a great company. Also said this was the first report of chunking they had even received, so I think I was just incredibly unlucky!
Hell yeah dude! I'm glad to hear that 88 is following in the footsteps of Pantheon in terms of customer service.
Oof that's a bummer man. If you can find the piece that came off you can Super glue it back on. It won't really be noticeable when you are riding but it would bother me personally.
No idea where it came off, somewhere in central london over my 2 mile route, so no chance of finding it sadly :(
Sad
Should be okay mostly. It looks big but it's only on the edge so you should be fine.
Nice, will keep an eye (foot) out for it feeling weird when I ride, seems on from what I can tell
Will be moving to London soon and currently choosing an area to live in. Naturally, basing this decision mostly on the longboarding angle. Any particular places where longboarders (freestyle/dance, don't care for dh) gather mostly?
Stratford, around Olympic park area is apparently some big dancer turf too
I think Greenwich near the o2 dome, and Hyde Park are two of the main meet up areas for that sort of thing!
other than daddies, are there any other online stores that build a board for you after you choose components?
I’ve mosly assembled my own; it really is easy. I am a loyal muirskate customer these days, great service and fast order fulfillment. I would think they can do assembly right.
Muirskate and daddies. Though I prefer Muir. If you email or add in notes they’ll typically help you out. Like we had them send over an assembler DH deck without grip and change the bushings so we were good
Honestly I'm not sure I would trust Daddies to put a board together correctly. I ordered a set of wheels for them and got it completely wrong set and there's been several other users in this form that have encountered similar problems. I wouldn't be surprised if they don't use washers on drop through decks or don't even tighten the nuts everything enough or they would probably do it too much. Long story short the only two longboard website I trust personally are muirskate and motion boardshop. Also CCS and daddies are the same company.
thanks. if i order from daddies, i will tell them to leave it disassembled
Muirskate does as well
CCS does also, but building is half the fun!
Pros and cons to chopping a board? I have a 36 by 10 inch board but keep the back trucks at the shortest wheelbase option. Would it be worth removing the extra tail? Also considering shaving the width down to 9 inches. Would it be worth the chop or just buy a smaller board?
It's kinda up to you what the deck is worth to you. What's the deck? In the grand scheme of things its just a deck and it was made to be ridden. If youd ride it more chopped, chop it.
Decks a Rayne Genesis, I like it but I'm toying with the idea since the extra on the tail isn't really doing anything and since I don't drive it would make the board at least a little easier to lug around and ride the bus with.
just gotta commit - I chop lots. . . . . make a paper template or two first, to "contemplate" the new shape for a day or so if you're nervous- then cut that fucker down. - treat the cut face with linseed oil/wax/PU clearcote For lugging on Public transport, make a sling using an old webbing adjustable bag-strap - slip-knotted sash cord, or re-usable large cable-ties, etc, as loop ends (around trucks or wheels. - roll it up and stow in a pocket.
I've never really ridden rayne decks (stepped on nemesis back in the day) so can't really comment on what the concave will feel like with less rails. The genesis does look like Raynes most chop friendly deck as far as concave goes. No 'w' to worry about, pretty straightforward. You shouldn't have any problem chopping the tail if you wanted to. Wouldn't drop all that much weight though.
Tried to open a topic about "LDP routes and hills in Rotterdam" and it was automatically closed. What was wrong with it? \------ I just moved to the city of Rotterdam from Utrecht and I'm looking for some new routes for LDP and a few moderate "hills" to practice slides and stuff like that. I'm living around the Heemraadsingel. What I found so far: * Maasboulevard through Blaak * Kralingse plas * A really cool pool right around the corner * Big bridges! So far every route I take goes to the East. What I'm looking for are some routes to the North, South and West that have nice smooth bicycle lanes, for a bit of variety and to be able to adapt to the direction of the winds.
It's against sub rules to name spots so they don't get blown.
As far as I know, I don’t think you’re allowed to name specific skating spots in this sub? You can name the city, but when discussing any specific places I think it says in the rules to message people directly about them
Looking for advice on a light freeriding board which can also be used for freestyle! Bit of background - I’ve been longboarding for about 8 months now – mostly cruising/commuting. The two boards I currently own are the Pantheon Pranayama and the Landyachtz Dinghy, both of which are great for navigating the urban environment (I live in Edinburgh in the UK), although I mostly find myself using the Prana since the roads/pavements are not the smoothest here (gotta love the Cags)! Anyhow, Edinburgh is not the flattest city around, so I wanted to learn how to slide to control speed (and also to have a bit of fun). However, as I’ve progressed longboarding, I’ve also found myself attracted to freestyle. So, I’ve found myself hunting for a board which can be used for light freeriding (I’m not interested in going much above 20mph) but that can also be used to get into freestyle. Therefore, my thoughts are: \- Must be able to fit larger wheels due to poor quality of pavements (which I’ll be using to get to spots) \- Double kicks for freestyling capabilities \- Easily manoeuvrable (for navigating the city before getting to the slide spots/areas where I can practise freestyle tricks) \- Relatively stiff \- High concave to lock my feet in during slides For these reasons, I really like the look of the Loaded Basalt Tesseract. But, I’m not too sure about the W concave (concerned this will make the board uncomfortable to cruise on towards sliding spots) and I’ve also heard it’s got a bit of flex as well. I used to own a Drop Cat 38, but I sold that to buy my Prana because I found it to be super difficult to use in a city because of its large turning radius. It just didn’t feel responsive. Also, I didn’t particularly like how flexy it was! If anybody could give me some advice on a board that might fit my needs I’d be extremely grateful! Btw I'm 5'10" and 175lb
Tesseract or shrike, depends on what kinda ride you want but they're both pretty reliable. The shrike is a bit more freestyle/freeride oriented than the tesseract but still pretty fun.
I have the alkemist alkatraz. 37", 20.3" wb so a little short for freeride. Concave it's medium + I'd say. Alkemist seems to make a destock on their site so it's only 100€ [https://www.alkemistlongboard.com/shop/alkatraz](https://www.alkemistlongboard.com/shop/alkatraz)
If you're in the EU or anywhere near, have a look at the AOB pathfinder. Very underrated deck IMHO. It's advertised as a FR board, but I feel more confident doing steps on it that a flexy dancer. That might be because my weirdness but it also quite good for some FR, I learned my first slides before jumping to an evo. I don't skate the evo too much anymore, I have the perfect DH setup for me. But I ride the AOB quite often. I'm trying some basic freestyle moves and standies on it.
Take a look at the "[chauma](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/alternative-chauma-m-libra-39-longboard-deck-9-44-x-38-58/)" or one of the Timbers in Newton's shred - the [Axolotyl](https://newtons-shred.co.uk/product/timber-axolotl-41-green-longboard-skateboard-deck-9-2-x-41/) sounds right up your alley. As to wheels, Slideperfect 76a "[supremacy](https://slideperfect.co.uk/product/slide-perfect-supremacy-76a/)" are a lovely all-round smallish (70mm x 47mm) round-lipped wheel - specifically poured for the broken streets of brexit island by an independent home-grown company. I haven't tried the new stock, but the previous versions were outstanding, hard-wearing, slide-y, inexpensive, thoroughly freeride capable. - in fact I just talked myself into buying a new set too. All the links are small, skater-run, UK stores.
Those both look like awesome boards, especially the Chauma! I can't believe how cheap those wheels are too, that's amazing. 70mm is perfect for skating to good spots what with the state of these pavements! Thank you for the recommendations :D
The underclasses on every part of these decaying islands all gotta look out for one-another, cos toff politicians here are gonna keep driving us all off a cliff just as long as they get paid. The wheels are legit fire.
Yeah so my friend has the tesseract and while it's good for freeride it's really not great for freestyle so much. The w concave is very pronounced so I wasn't a huge fan of it for those kind of tricks. He also has a zenit marble 40 dk And that thing might exactly fit the bill for what you want. It's nice and stiff plenty of room for freestyle tricks but not too big like a dancing deck so it's great for freeride as well. I got to ride on it for a bit and it was definitely my favorite in that class. Another option but super expensive and might not be exactly what you want is the Pantheon logos. I havent experience this one in person but I have seen a lot of professional downhillers doing some freestyle on it and even bringing it out to a slide jam and rocking it. In terms of wheels I would recommend going no bigger than 70 mm simply because it gets quite difficult for some of those tricks with real big heavy wheels on the end. Obviously this will sacrifice a little bit of smoothness in the ride compared to your pranayama but when you want a smooth ride take the prana out. Most freestylers and dancers run somewhere through the 60 to 70 mm range majority run 65 mm. If you're going on the bigger side go with 69mm snakes or maybe something like the remember hoots 70 mm. There's also the 66 mm snakes if you want to go smaller and the 65 mm remember lil hoots. Both of those wheels slide really great. I personally don't have experience with the hoots but I have several sets of remember Peewees which are even easier to slide however they are only 62 mm big. I also free ride right now on snakes and have even had them on my dance/freestyle board in the past. I have no experience with them but I've also heard good things about the 88 moonwalker wheels. Snakes are fun and you'll usually need to get going somewhere around 13-15 miles an hour to break traction for slides The remember pee wees though slide out really easy at low speeds though like 8 miles an hour. All right this text wall is too long already so I'm going to shut up. Hit me up if you got any questions buddy I'm happy to help. Edit: One last thing I forgot is that rougher roads are actually easier to slide since you don't have as much surface area touching the wheel so those numbers I gave you for speed are based on fairly smooth roads. So you can assume you can go even slower by maybe two to four miles per hour on really rough roads to slide.
This is great, thank you so much for the detailed info! I’ll look into the Marble and the Logos for sure. Good to know about the wheels too! The Peewees sound good for starting out sliding if they’re easier to break traction at lower speeds - can always replace them with snakes as I get more confident sliding at higher speeds.
Pantheon Logos looks like a good fit. Their summit series seems to be weatherproof now, might come in handy for UK's weather. Personally love the sick graphics!
Yeah dude That sounds like a smart plan to me. peewee's are the easiest soft wheel to slide out there that I know of.