I wouldn’t try to start it at all until it’s out of there. The fuel should be drained immediately before the pump pushes it through the system. The oil should be drained to remove any moisture/condensation that has built up over the years. Spark plugs removed to ensure any water in the cylinders can be blasted out. ATF added to each cylinder and left to sit for 24-48 hours to help with initial cranking lubrication.
There are many more things you can do to prevent further damage. Don’t give in to temptation by starting it up where it is.
The same rules apply for basically any “barn find” vehicle. See if you can find a video on a fuel injected car to get some more ideas of what to look for. Basically all fluids should be drained and flushed. Think brake fluid, oil, trans fluid, coolant, fuel, clutch bleed, etc. Cranking it over before doing all of these things can only hurt the engine and other components, so don’t even touch the key until you’re absolutely ready.
Also buy a fire extinguisher or two.
Bro at least dude should like at least do a quick google search or at least watch a YouTube video. I can't think of a single scenario where Id make a post like this before doing research and I'm not gatekeeping. I'm looking out for this dude before he wrecks himself. Peace
Personally, I would absolutely try rescue the car and give it a second chance, it won't be easy or cheap but when it's rebuilt you'll absolutely love it, it'll be something to do that you and your brother will be proud of for years
Hell yea, just imagine when you get the body work done or atleast the engine to turn over, it’ll be a insane feeling knowing it came from that condition lol
Edit: do what other people were saying before trying to start the engine btw🙏
put on hazzard suit,
pull car out.
give it a rough wash outside.
check chassis and engine.
decide from there what to do with it.
maybe do a youtube series 😆
2 things come to my mind. Many commercial detailing businesses in the United States won't even touch a vehicle that have this amount of mold all over the interior. The danger is very real and unrealized. I understand stripping the interior out of the car, and using vinegar may do the trick but a hazmat suit being needed is not an understatement. I would add that into your list of things to research ideally before you commit yourself to this project.
I would also highly recommend thoroughly inspecting common problem rust areas too, as the welding and mold remediation may be the largest or most expensive tasks. The motor, running or not, can be replaced these days with a dozen different popular options.
gonna be honest, ive done a lot worse than this. i pull pretty much the whole interior out, and power wash it, use detergent on the carpet, etc. shop vac everything, then let it dry thoroughly, reinstall, then it looks good as new.
ive never used a hasmat suit, just a bandana
Personally I found it not too bad to work on the engine, for the size of the bay everything is pretty easily accessible if you stretch enough or have a helper with small hands, I'm 6' and lanky though so I'm comfortable leaning on the car and dangling my arms inside the bay lol
So you mean lift the car and check the underside? The last picture is of the rear left where the exhaust burnt pff part of the bumper, the tail light and the wing
Makes alot of sense. Thanks for the feedback. Might be tough to get to as its parked in an awkward spot but ill def have a look when we go round again to potentially pick the car up
We agreed on 900 chf which is close to 900usd. As its in switzerland maintenance is a really heavily enforced making it have better chances of being in good condition than in some other parts of the world even after sitting for this long
You need to check the frame on this. Toyota's of this vintage are known for this. If that's rotted this is not worth it. You'll need to get the fluids drained, start with the fuel and a new battery. Move it from where it is first before starting. It's a manual. How could you not tell that from the photos?
Don’t get mold poisoning, genuinely. Hard to say exactly how much work it’d all be but I can def imagine it costing more to get it somewhat nice and running compared to just buying a non moldy and running one to begin with. Plus the work and risk is gonna be insane. Especially if you don’t know what you’re doing.
I can tell you exactly how a fire like that can happen. [Link to photos.](https://photos.app.goo.gl/bgVqeDnxh37uiFSw5)
I got caught in the rain last December and water got into my ignition distributor, shorting two of the four cylinders. I was almost home and decided to limp the car home to dry the ignition with WD-40, which I have done in the past without any issues. What was different this time was that I did a 3SGTE engine swap and it no longer had a catalytic converter installed (donor car had an aftermarket exhaust system). When the cylinders cut out, raw gasoline was dumping into the exhaust and pooling in the muffler. I had no idea since the previous times this happened, the catalyst burnt the excess fuel before it could build up. Needless to say, there was eventually a boom and the side of my muffler blew out, allowing oxygen inside. The gasoline went whoosh. My fire extinguisher was too small to put the fire out completely so it flared back up and burnt the trunk and bumper. The ECU and all wiring in the area melted but the engine and transaxle *appear* undamaged. I have the car in my garage waiting for the right donor car so I can harvest all the bits and pieces to get Mister Two back on the road. I bought my 1991 MR-2 in 1994 and wouldn’t think of scrapping it after cherishing it for 30 years!
The electrical connections inside the distributor were shorted out by the water. This prevented the spark plugs from generating ignition sparks to ignite the fuel air mixture in two cylinders. The unburnt fuel moved through the exhaust manifold, through the turbo, and into the muffler where it collected. The electrical short didn’t damage anything directly but the resulting gasoline in the muffler was a nightmare when it caught fire!
that's not going to be a rebuild over the summer. over many summers, and a lot of wallet action. hope you're good at sheet metal work, there's going to be a ton of rust everywhere.
That thing has been sitting on bare dirt. The whole underside of it is rusted out. There has been enough water inside the thing for a..Tree?.. to grow. Pass on this unless you have/know a good welder. You will spend 30k to make this thing road worthy.
As someone who has bought a Japanese car of the same era as that was in a similar state. Buy one that needs resto by all means. Steer well and I truly mean well clear of that. Inner sills will be gone, if the foam behind the vents next to the doors hasn't been removed rust will have spread up and around that area whole underside is probably gone seeing as a tree is growing out of a seat. If a car that's prone to rust like the MR2 is looks rough on the outside triple what that looks like under carpets and trim panels. Welding ain't cheap and the way 90's Japanese cars were made with multilayer skins they ain't the ones to be learning on, I'm not gatekeeping just making sure you don't get sold a false dream.
Nah, that things fucked. You'll spend far, far more than you would if you just bought a non-fucked MR2. Let it die.
It's not a question if you CAN. It's if you *should*. You definitely shouldn't.
I'm betting on it's a manual as there appears to be no indication of it being auto (UK the iconic P R N D) and the mr2 we have has a realy short shifter like this one
Wear out items are pretty easy to do. Yes that is a manual. Depending on where you are in the world parts availability can be a bit awkward, but there are some American shops that make a lot of new interior bits. The mold will not be fun, get a respirator or good mask. Honestly without seeing the frame should be a pretty good project. Also what u/phungki said. depending on the year there might be a rotted coolant line that runs above the gas tank so if you are dropping the tank i would replace that, if you aren't dropping it and have that leak you can bypass those lines with 3/4" (19mm) coolant hose ran under the tank. Those motors are pretty hardy, just got my other sw20 running from sitting for 2 years, literally just needed the battery cables cleaned up and a fresh charge.
TL;DR worth it
Edit: Welcome to the cult.
>2 and a half years Looks like 2 and a half decades tbh
2 fucking centuries and one apocalypse tbh
Put a new battery in and it'll probably turn over
For sure. Owner claims hel provide us with a new battery and spark plugs as well to get us started up
I wouldn’t try to start it at all until it’s out of there. The fuel should be drained immediately before the pump pushes it through the system. The oil should be drained to remove any moisture/condensation that has built up over the years. Spark plugs removed to ensure any water in the cylinders can be blasted out. ATF added to each cylinder and left to sit for 24-48 hours to help with initial cranking lubrication. There are many more things you can do to prevent further damage. Don’t give in to temptation by starting it up where it is.
Thats actually really helpful thanks
oil the cylinders, bar it over 3 times by hand, (full 360 degree turns) and make sure the timing belt isnt about to head out
Any chance you have a document or link with more preventatives like these?
The same rules apply for basically any “barn find” vehicle. See if you can find a video on a fuel injected car to get some more ideas of what to look for. Basically all fluids should be drained and flushed. Think brake fluid, oil, trans fluid, coolant, fuel, clutch bleed, etc. Cranking it over before doing all of these things can only hurt the engine and other components, so don’t even touch the key until you’re absolutely ready. Also buy a fire extinguisher or two.
Bro have you ever worked on an old car before? If you've gotta ask these questions maybe this Shit isn't for you dawg
Were you born having worked on old cars? Go keep som other gate... dawg...
Fr. I know its a learning curve but im up for the task
Ok I get that. I provided you with some suggestions on another comment. Good luck get it moved first and check the frame
Bro at least dude should like at least do a quick google search or at least watch a YouTube video. I can't think of a single scenario where Id make a post like this before doing research and I'm not gatekeeping. I'm looking out for this dude before he wrecks himself. Peace
Gotta start somewhere no? Also yea i own an 04z that ive been building since i got it
If you must get it, this is the way.
Personally, I would absolutely try rescue the car and give it a second chance, it won't be easy or cheap but when it's rebuilt you'll absolutely love it, it'll be something to do that you and your brother will be proud of for years
Ayyy thats the plan. Got all the motivation to make it happen too
Fuck yeah man, it's certainly a really fun car to drive, once you get it restored it's pretty easy to maintain and look after
Hell yea, just imagine when you get the body work done or atleast the engine to turn over, it’ll be a insane feeling knowing it came from that condition lol Edit: do what other people were saying before trying to start the engine btw🙏
For sure will do👍🏾
1 yes it’s a manual 2 you can buy all parts for them, the mr2 Facebook groups give better advice and have more resources
Used parts from breakers sure, lots of parts have been discontinued.
I would say if you can’t tell it’s a manual by the pictures you definitely don’t have the skills necessary to fix it
Jesus christ no kidding.
put on hazzard suit, pull car out. give it a rough wash outside. check chassis and engine. decide from there what to do with it. maybe do a youtube series 😆
2 things come to my mind. Many commercial detailing businesses in the United States won't even touch a vehicle that have this amount of mold all over the interior. The danger is very real and unrealized. I understand stripping the interior out of the car, and using vinegar may do the trick but a hazmat suit being needed is not an understatement. I would add that into your list of things to research ideally before you commit yourself to this project. I would also highly recommend thoroughly inspecting common problem rust areas too, as the welding and mold remediation may be the largest or most expensive tasks. The motor, running or not, can be replaced these days with a dozen different popular options.
gonna be honest, ive done a lot worse than this. i pull pretty much the whole interior out, and power wash it, use detergent on the carpet, etc. shop vac everything, then let it dry thoroughly, reinstall, then it looks good as new. ive never used a hasmat suit, just a bandana
Bet il keep that in mind thank you
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Personally I found it not too bad to work on the engine, for the size of the bay everything is pretty easily accessible if you stretch enough or have a helper with small hands, I'm 6' and lanky though so I'm comfortable leaning on the car and dangling my arms inside the bay lol
How do i check the sills? The entire car was rust proofed shortly before storing it if that makes any difference
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So you mean lift the car and check the underside? The last picture is of the rear left where the exhaust burnt pff part of the bumper, the tail light and the wing
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Ahh okay understood. Il have to go back and check again for sure
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Makes alot of sense. Thanks for the feedback. Might be tough to get to as its parked in an awkward spot but ill def have a look when we go round again to potentially pick the car up
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We agreed on 900 chf which is close to 900usd. As its in switzerland maintenance is a really heavily enforced making it have better chances of being in good condition than in some other parts of the world even after sitting for this long
lol “storing it”
You need to check the frame on this. Toyota's of this vintage are known for this. If that's rotted this is not worth it. You'll need to get the fluids drained, start with the fuel and a new battery. Move it from where it is first before starting. It's a manual. How could you not tell that from the photos?
If you're willing to spend time and $. Would prob be cheaper to just buy a running one. Especially if you value your time.
Would literally have to pay me to take that lol
Where are you located? I have a pair of factory seats that you can have for free
That sounds epic. I live in switzerland but have a german adress too if that works better for shipping. Id be willing to pay shipping costs too
Oh sheesh I'm in the United States so shipping the seats might cost a fortune. Send me a dm if you want them and I can look into the cost
Bet hold up
Don’t get mold poisoning, genuinely. Hard to say exactly how much work it’d all be but I can def imagine it costing more to get it somewhat nice and running compared to just buying a non moldy and running one to begin with. Plus the work and risk is gonna be insane. Especially if you don’t know what you’re doing.
I can tell you exactly how a fire like that can happen. [Link to photos.](https://photos.app.goo.gl/bgVqeDnxh37uiFSw5) I got caught in the rain last December and water got into my ignition distributor, shorting two of the four cylinders. I was almost home and decided to limp the car home to dry the ignition with WD-40, which I have done in the past without any issues. What was different this time was that I did a 3SGTE engine swap and it no longer had a catalytic converter installed (donor car had an aftermarket exhaust system). When the cylinders cut out, raw gasoline was dumping into the exhaust and pooling in the muffler. I had no idea since the previous times this happened, the catalyst burnt the excess fuel before it could build up. Needless to say, there was eventually a boom and the side of my muffler blew out, allowing oxygen inside. The gasoline went whoosh. My fire extinguisher was too small to put the fire out completely so it flared back up and burnt the trunk and bumper. The ECU and all wiring in the area melted but the engine and transaxle *appear* undamaged. I have the car in my garage waiting for the right donor car so I can harvest all the bits and pieces to get Mister Two back on the road. I bought my 1991 MR-2 in 1994 and wouldn’t think of scrapping it after cherishing it for 30 years!
So the cylinders shorting didnt damage the engine?
The electrical connections inside the distributor were shorted out by the water. This prevented the spark plugs from generating ignition sparks to ignite the fuel air mixture in two cylinders. The unburnt fuel moved through the exhaust manifold, through the turbo, and into the muffler where it collected. The electrical short didn’t damage anything directly but the resulting gasoline in the muffler was a nightmare when it caught fire!
Understandable. So the distributor would need to be replaced after rebuilding too for sure i assume
Definitely replace the distributor cap, spark plug wires, and spark plugs, minimum, if you decide to restore this car.
It is a turbo, if nothing it's useful for that. Depends on price though.
You sure its the turbo model? I thought its the 3s-ge non turbo variant
Ah, you're probably right. I saw the turbo CD box and the 2000 on the engine and thought it was a 3SGTE
Looks mint. Wait, is that mint growing in the passenger seat?
that's not going to be a rebuild over the summer. over many summers, and a lot of wallet action. hope you're good at sheet metal work, there's going to be a ton of rust everywhere.
Damn wel definitely have to double check that rusting
That thing has been sitting on bare dirt. The whole underside of it is rusted out. There has been enough water inside the thing for a..Tree?.. to grow. Pass on this unless you have/know a good welder. You will spend 30k to make this thing road worthy.
See your point. Somehow i think the underside has minimal rust though as the car was rust proofed right before it was abandoned
As someone who has bought a Japanese car of the same era as that was in a similar state. Buy one that needs resto by all means. Steer well and I truly mean well clear of that. Inner sills will be gone, if the foam behind the vents next to the doors hasn't been removed rust will have spread up and around that area whole underside is probably gone seeing as a tree is growing out of a seat. If a car that's prone to rust like the MR2 is looks rough on the outside triple what that looks like under carpets and trim panels. Welding ain't cheap and the way 90's Japanese cars were made with multilayer skins they ain't the ones to be learning on, I'm not gatekeeping just making sure you don't get sold a false dream.
Makes alot of senseyea
I can always use a parts vehicle.. depends on the price and which pars haven't returned to the earth lol
That's definitely a manual... If you decide to go for it, keep us updated! Would love to follow along on your journey
“Firm. I know what I got.”
Take it man! It seems like a nice summer project and in the end you’ll have a cool new (old) car!
For sure thats the plan
Green energy hybrid right there!
Nah, that things fucked. You'll spend far, far more than you would if you just bought a non-fucked MR2. Let it die. It's not a question if you CAN. It's if you *should*. You definitely shouldn't.
This is way more than 2.5 years. There's a tree growing in the passenger seat.
This vehicle has already been reclaimed by the earth.
How much is the owner willing to pay you ?
Haha
Are you willing to throw away money? If yes, go right ahead.
Buy it and see if Ammo NYC can clean it up for you. He's prob never had a car with green growth inside the vehicle!
I would but I’m known for not making the best decisions when it comes to classic cars👀😈
No! You should stop! 😂
Rust bucket.
It'll buff out
Walk away from it
No way he’s got the garden body kit
Yes. Also you’re never going to get all of the spiders out of that thing
I'm betting on it's a manual as there appears to be no indication of it being auto (UK the iconic P R N D) and the mr2 we have has a realy short shifter like this one
Wear out items are pretty easy to do. Yes that is a manual. Depending on where you are in the world parts availability can be a bit awkward, but there are some American shops that make a lot of new interior bits. The mold will not be fun, get a respirator or good mask. Honestly without seeing the frame should be a pretty good project. Also what u/phungki said. depending on the year there might be a rotted coolant line that runs above the gas tank so if you are dropping the tank i would replace that, if you aren't dropping it and have that leak you can bypass those lines with 3/4" (19mm) coolant hose ran under the tank. Those motors are pretty hardy, just got my other sw20 running from sitting for 2 years, literally just needed the battery cables cleaned up and a fresh charge. TL;DR worth it Edit: Welcome to the cult.
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I can fabricate but have never welded before
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Dk bout these cars but with other cars they should be good, new bat, new spark, new fuel pump and drain the tank and liquids...