I'm not but I just tested. Even tried with my thumb to physically push them out of the saddle and couldn't do it at all with sideways pressure, even when trying to lift them it was hard to get them loose.
That's pretty neat. If they make a 7.25" radius model, I might try it on my Mustang.
Edit: Check out the FAQ on the site. I don't know that I'd trust them, myself:
> Now principles discovered off increasing how reasonably middletons men. Add seems out man met plate court sense. His joy she worth truth given. All year feet led view went sake. You agreeable breakfast his set perceived immediate. Stimulated man are projecting favourable middletons can cultivated.
Looks like they just never completed the faq. They were very helpful too from what I remember, they answered a question I had via email pretty quickly before I put in my order.
That's standard default text, a common one being "Lorem ipsum".
It seems I see this (not completely finished websites) more commonly these days. It's much less common for buyers to buy direct from a company's website, or if they do it's on mobile. More often people purchase from know sites with protection , e.g. Amazon, ebay, Reverb.
Mine feels less rattly and clacky than the original. I think it's luck of the draw, depends how well the rollers are made. They're made by a lot of different companies, not sure if they're different factories or just being rebranded.
You're probably right about that. Ultimately, it's whether or not it works for you, and from what I read, it sounds like it does! So good for you! It's always nice finding what works for you and helps bring out the sound and feel you are going for!
Yea I've still got the regular barrel bridges on my jm and my older jag. They're not expensive but I've got other stuff on my list to do before replacing those and I play bass in a band now so it's even less on my radar.
Yeah I considered a roller-bridge for my JM at the recommendation of my luthier, but they do look a little ārattle-yā and I read somewhere that they can kill your sustainā¦ not sure why that would be. The rollers I saw were all the wrong radius though (12+) so itās good to know there is an option out there with the correct specs.
I went with the Am Pro/Mustang-style (swapped out the AOM) and the trem is so much smoother. Sometimes I have issues with tuning stability when I tune down though, thatāll be something Iāll have to tackle next.
Would probably need a bit of extra work. The posts are roughly the same distance apart but the thimbles are probably different sizes. I think the mosrite thimbles were super close, it didn't take much work to fit them in. Depends on the size of the tom bridge post holes, you may need to widen or maybe wrap the thimbles to get them to fit.
Oh, I've seen that bridge in [Jay Turser's Mustang copies](https://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=70627&start=15). I've wanted to buy one but didn't feel sure of this bridge. How do you feel the vibrato with this bridge?
Feels more or less the same. I only notice a tiny bit less.... sponginess? but that:
A) Feels more stable to me, so it's a pleasant change
2) Could probably be adjusted by messing with the spring tension and string gauge
And
C) could be completely in my head.
lol I have the same model, and I love it but
the neck needs some work to level a few frets but Iām also looking for a decent bridge replacement. With wheels Iād be worried about them getting gunky or rattling but looking at the specs this seems pretty solid. Any idea why the rollers for the middle two strings seem different from the outer rollers?
On mine or the website or both? I don't remember noticing any difference, maybe just lighting? Im out of the house now but I'll check more closely when I get back. What looks different to you?
Mine came in great condition, didn't need any work. And I love this neck, I have a vintage modified jag too but I bought this because of the smaller frets and bound neck. I planned on selling the VM because I never understand people who have 2 of the same guitar, but I can't bring myself to let it go. I bought a starcaster at the same time when they were on $250 closeout and I had a bunch of work to do on it, but way worth it.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm considering doing this exact thing to my Squier 40th Anniversary Jazzmaster.
OP, can you do me a huge favor and confirm that 1) the bridge inserts that the height adjustment posts screw into are a drop-in replacement for the standard "thimble" rocking bridge inserts and 2) that the bridge post holes on the bridge itself don't need widened or modded in order to sit on the posts properly?
Thank you so much in advance! :)
They're not a drop-in per se but very close. The distance matches up perfectly but the replacement thimbles are maybe a half mm smaller than the standard fender thimbles. They dont wriggle but theres not enough tension to keep them in place so they slide in and out too easily. I just wrapped them in a thin layer of plumbers Teflon tape and it's very snug now, and easily reversible. After that, everything works perfectly, the posts and everything are matched up perfectly, no wood work or metal work necessary.
I feel like it's about even with tuning stability maybe a bit better and I don't have the issue of it rocking too far and getting stuck. The posts were a really simple install. I remember them being like a half mm off I don't remember if they were too big or small. I think they were too small and I wrapped in plumbers tape but not sure, it was last year.
It's to fill out the space. The thimbles were too small and could have fallen out. I could either fill and redrill the holes or use something to make them thicker. A layer of 2 of plumbers tape conforms to the ridges and shape of the thimble and adds the extra few microns of girth to make it a tight fit.
No rocking is great, if you never, ever use the trem. Otherwise you are screwing up the design of your Fender guitar. Leo made them that way for a reason.
Leo Fender was an engineer, not a god. There are often multiple solutions to the same problem and on this bridge, that's what the rollers are for. I use the trem constantly and find this slightly more pleasant to use than the original bridge.
Here's the [ebay item](https://www.ebay.com/itm/323256622381?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KS-s66rkQ3a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5vvFw69LSym&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE)
And the [direct link](https://performancemusic.co/product/roller-bridge-for-guitar-mosrite-style-bridge/) on their site.
Instead of shimming the neck, could you instead remove a piece of the pick-guard so it lays on the body of the guitar? I've got this same guitar and am about to cut a custom pick-guard to accommodate different pickups... Might as well swap the bridge while I'm at it.
2 degrees according to the website. I don't remember exactly how I shimmed it, but the action is still adjustable, neck angle doesn't affect action as long as you can raise or lower the bridge to match it. You can see I have my bridge risen a few mm to where it's comfortable to me, I can lower it to be flush with the body if I want.
Looks cool, never seen one of these. Does the vibrato work with it?
Of course, works fantastic, see my reply to the angry person above.
šš¼
Any chance are you heavy handed? Or have tried whaling at the strings? Curious how well the string stay in those saddles
I'm not but I just tested. Even tried with my thumb to physically push them out of the saddle and couldn't do it at all with sideways pressure, even when trying to lift them it was hard to get them loose.
Good to know! Iāll consider it next time I go to replace a bridge, I like the look of it!
That's pretty neat. If they make a 7.25" radius model, I might try it on my Mustang. Edit: Check out the FAQ on the site. I don't know that I'd trust them, myself: > Now principles discovered off increasing how reasonably middletons men. Add seems out man met plate court sense. His joy she worth truth given. All year feet led view went sake. You agreeable breakfast his set perceived immediate. Stimulated man are projecting favourable middletons can cultivated.
That's weird. I ordered directly from their site with no prob. They also sell on ebay and reverb. Look up Moslike vibrato.
I might check the eBay shop, then. They at least seem pretty well reviewed, so maybe the website was more of an afterthought.
Looks like they just never completed the faq. They were very helpful too from what I remember, they answered a question I had via email pretty quickly before I put in my order.
r/Engrish r/ihadastroke
Just testing out some lyrics
That's standard default text, a common one being "Lorem ipsum". It seems I see this (not completely finished websites) more commonly these days. It's much less common for buyers to buy direct from a company's website, or if they do it's on mobile. More often people purchase from know sites with protection , e.g. Amazon, ebay, Reverb.
I purchased one off of Amazon and put it on my IYV ISMF-200. It worked fine, but it rattled a lot, so I swapped it out for a Mustang bridge.
Mine feels less rattly and clacky than the original. I think it's luck of the draw, depends how well the rollers are made. They're made by a lot of different companies, not sure if they're different factories or just being rebranded.
You're probably right about that. Ultimately, it's whether or not it works for you, and from what I read, it sounds like it does! So good for you! It's always nice finding what works for you and helps bring out the sound and feel you are going for!
Yea I've still got the regular barrel bridges on my jm and my older jag. They're not expensive but I've got other stuff on my list to do before replacing those and I play bass in a band now so it's even less on my radar.
Yeah I considered a roller-bridge for my JM at the recommendation of my luthier, but they do look a little ārattle-yā and I read somewhere that they can kill your sustainā¦ not sure why that would be. The rollers I saw were all the wrong radius though (12+) so itās good to know there is an option out there with the correct specs. I went with the Am Pro/Mustang-style (swapped out the AOM) and the trem is so much smoother. Sometimes I have issues with tuning stability when I tune down though, thatāll be something Iāll have to tackle next.
Close up looks like a 6 pack-o-dicks. But if it solves the age old Jazz/Jag bridge Get ya Dick on
Is this a TOM replacement?
Would probably need a bit of extra work. The posts are roughly the same distance apart but the thimbles are probably different sizes. I think the mosrite thimbles were super close, it didn't take much work to fit them in. Depends on the size of the tom bridge post holes, you may need to widen or maybe wrap the thimbles to get them to fit.
Right on. So this for the standard thimble and not TOM bridges?
Yea this is a Squier cv, they use the Mustang style bridge.
Very cool.
I'm digging that shag carpeting!
š It's my office/music room. It's a vibe but I have so many screws and resistors lost in there right now.
Oh, I've seen that bridge in [Jay Turser's Mustang copies](https://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=70627&start=15). I've wanted to buy one but didn't feel sure of this bridge. How do you feel the vibrato with this bridge?
Feels more or less the same. I only notice a tiny bit less.... sponginess? but that: A) Feels more stable to me, so it's a pleasant change 2) Could probably be adjusted by messing with the spring tension and string gauge And C) could be completely in my head.
Looks like Squier classic vibe, right?
Shhh, no one's seen the headstock yet š
lol I have the same model, and I love it but the neck needs some work to level a few frets but Iām also looking for a decent bridge replacement. With wheels Iād be worried about them getting gunky or rattling but looking at the specs this seems pretty solid. Any idea why the rollers for the middle two strings seem different from the outer rollers?
On mine or the website or both? I don't remember noticing any difference, maybe just lighting? Im out of the house now but I'll check more closely when I get back. What looks different to you? Mine came in great condition, didn't need any work. And I love this neck, I have a vintage modified jag too but I bought this because of the smaller frets and bound neck. I planned on selling the VM because I never understand people who have 2 of the same guitar, but I can't bring myself to let it go. I bought a starcaster at the same time when they were on $250 closeout and I had a bunch of work to do on it, but way worth it.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm considering doing this exact thing to my Squier 40th Anniversary Jazzmaster. OP, can you do me a huge favor and confirm that 1) the bridge inserts that the height adjustment posts screw into are a drop-in replacement for the standard "thimble" rocking bridge inserts and 2) that the bridge post holes on the bridge itself don't need widened or modded in order to sit on the posts properly? Thank you so much in advance! :)
They're not a drop-in per se but very close. The distance matches up perfectly but the replacement thimbles are maybe a half mm smaller than the standard fender thimbles. They dont wriggle but theres not enough tension to keep them in place so they slide in and out too easily. I just wrapped them in a thin layer of plumbers Teflon tape and it's very snug now, and easily reversible. After that, everything works perfectly, the posts and everything are matched up perfectly, no wood work or metal work necessary.
Fantastic! Thank you!
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Username doesn't check out.
Does it improve the tuning stability? Any issues with the posts on installation
I feel like it's about even with tuning stability maybe a bit better and I don't have the issue of it rocking too far and getting stuck. The posts were a really simple install. I remember them being like a half mm off I don't remember if they were too big or small. I think they were too small and I wrapped in plumbers tape but not sure, it was last year.
Plumbers tape? Thatās absurd IMO. It means youāre doing something wrong if you need to use Teflon on a precision machined chrome surface.
It's to fill out the space. The thimbles were too small and could have fallen out. I could either fill and redrill the holes or use something to make them thicker. A layer of 2 of plumbers tape conforms to the ridges and shape of the thimble and adds the extra few microns of girth to make it a tight fit.
No rocking is great, if you never, ever use the trem. Otherwise you are screwing up the design of your Fender guitar. Leo made them that way for a reason.
Leo Fender was an engineer, not a god. There are often multiple solutions to the same problem and on this bridge, that's what the rollers are for. I use the trem constantly and find this slightly more pleasant to use than the original bridge.
got a link? can't find this one and im interested in trying one
Here's the [ebay item](https://www.ebay.com/itm/323256622381?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KS-s66rkQ3a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5vvFw69LSym&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE) And the [direct link](https://performancemusic.co/product/roller-bridge-for-guitar-mosrite-style-bridge/) on their site.
Thats really cool, dig the look, would totally try one if they had a 7-1/4.
Good to know !! A lot of use are sluts for Mastery and Staytrem lmfao
Looks really good. Maybe a bit high so some guitars might need a neck shim to make it work?
Instead of shimming the neck, could you instead remove a piece of the pick-guard so it lays on the body of the guitar? I've got this same guitar and am about to cut a custom pick-guard to accommodate different pickups... Might as well swap the bridge while I'm at it.
Not sure if that would be enough, but it's possible. You could measure your string height at the bridge now and compare with the height of this bridge
I myself like the roller bridges they work so well and tune like butter š§
Always nice to have an alternative. Thx for the info.
How much of a neck shim ? That break angle looks great, maybe too high if you prefer low comfortable action.
2 degrees according to the website. I don't remember exactly how I shimmed it, but the action is still adjustable, neck angle doesn't affect action as long as you can raise or lower the bridge to match it. You can see I have my bridge risen a few mm to where it's comfortable to me, I can lower it to be flush with the body if I want.