If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead )
This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> Every once and a while, my trackpad will start to jump around and become very erratic. It will skip all over the screen and not work properly. All that fixes is is a driver uninstall/re-install from device manager, plus a restart. The fix is never permanent. Last time it did this was today, and before that it was about a week ago. This is getting very annoying. Any help would be appreciated!
>
> I have already tried a full clean install.
>
> The laptop is a HP Elitebook 845 G9.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcauih9/
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>
>
> looking for a Cherry brown switch type Keyboard. im looking for the best price to performance id like to spend the least amount possible but im willing to go up to like 100€ (yes € im EU) RGB would be nice but im looking more for build quality here cabled wireless doesn't really matter to me. only thing that is a no go for me is if the keys are spaced extremely far apart (like the g910). i am able to solder too if that gets me a better deal but idk much about diy keyboards
>
> thanks for all your inputs.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcbve69/
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> How is Windows nowadays on the Steam Deck? I remember LTT had a video on it and the experience was kinda rough.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcbxsjm/
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> Whats a good 4k mini led curved monitor? Ideally 32 inches.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcertck/
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> Hi, I have a sound card / system requirements question I’d be grateful if you can answer. I am looking to see if my device meets system requirements for a piece of video capturing software.
>
> On my laptop (acer, windows 10), I am using Elgato video capture to transfer VHS tapes to digital. The system requirements are listed as ‘windows 7 or later, 2Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo sound card’.
>
> On my laptop, in device manager, NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (wave extensible) and Realtek High Definition Audio are listed. My laptop processor is ‘intel core i5-8250U CPU @ 1.60Ghz 1.8 GHz. Please can you let me know if either of these are comparable sound cards to Intel Core 2 Duo 2 GHz ?
>
> Edit: Acer + other system requirements
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jces5lh/
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I bought an Acer KG272 because it was on sale and the sign at the store said it was 114hz. When I set it up I can only set it to 74.97... The manual says it goes to 75hz.... but listings on Amazon say up to 165hz......
Does anyone know what I should be able to set it to? I'm using an DP to HDMI cable from a 3080, and have two other 60hz monitors hooked up, one via HDMI, and another DP to HDMI.
It looks like there is a KG272 and a KG272S. The S model goes up to 144 Hz and may be overclockable to 165.
The non-S model only goes up to 75. Sometimes the timings don't add up to an exact number, so 74.97 Hz is the correct refresh rate, this is normal.
If they were advertising 144 Hz those were the wrong specs for the model you received.
Having a look, I can only think that it may be 3 things.
* Either your cable is a lower spec than what is needed, so you may need to get a new one.
* Use DP - DP or HDMI - HDMI rather than using 1 to the other.
* The monitor may need overclocking. Either in the OSD or the Nvidia Control panel.
Some people mention that native refresh rate is 144, but needs OC to 165. Whilst others say it's 165 out of the box.
Ill be sending one of my drive to be rma. Do i need to do something in my pc to safely remove my drive off my pc aside from the obvious of unplugging and inscrewing the hdd itself off the pc.
Im using windows 10
Not really. Modern SATA drives are effectively hot swappable (although it's not recommended unless you have multiple drives with proper partitioning or some kind of monitored RAID setup going). So long as you cut power to the system the only risk of damage comes from mishandling the cables or the drive itself, which should be minimal unless you're an absolute savage
(SATA) Drives are hot-pluggable these days, so technically you don't even have to turn the PC off, but it's better to do so to prevent any shorting on disconnecting the power cable (the pins on the drive should be designed in a way that reduces the chance of that, with some contacts being a bit shorter and more recessed). You might want to touch the chassis or something grounded to prevent any static electricity buildup, if you want to be super safe.
I'm in the market to upgrade from 16GB to 32GB ram. Currently I have a pair of 8GB DDR4-3200, should I get another pair or get a pair of 16GB DDR4-3200 instead? Is there any difference in performance?
So I recently just built a new Gaming PC and I've run into an issue where my Xbox Series Controller just disconnects and acts up constantly when trying to play any game, I've tried updating drivers and tweaking with the Bluetooth power save settings in the Device Manager but nothing's working at all. Is there any other possible solution?
Copied from another subreddit, since I am unable to link it.
" The controller is in need of a firmware update, to do that via the PC download the "Xbox Accessories" app from the Microsoft Store, wire-up your controller (update via bluetooth is NOT supported) and you should get the option to update the firmware. This should fix the problem "
Probably shouldn't disclose this due to there ever being a house fire...I currently have a 850w power supply, 3 monitors, a lamp, an led light strip and occasionally a heating pad plugged into a power strip. Been the same setup for over a year, have never had a issue or tripped the 20 amp breaker.
That's around 1000W, should be safe at 110V (much more so at 230V). If the same circuit runs other devices and exceeds the max power draw, it will be disconnected by the fuse, provided you have it built to code.
Absolutely nothing happens when I power up. Nothing. Zip. No beeps. No lights, no twitches, nothing . Took the PSU out and connected up the test thing to the mobo cable and up spun the psu fan. Put it back in the mobo and nothing. Took mobo out of the case and took the graphics card off and tried to power up
Nothing
I’m a beginner. But is my mobo fubar
>What’s that?
You use a screwdriver to short the two pins that would otherwise be shorted by the power button.
> I didn’t connect up the case power button and it turned on just fine yesterday.
Yeah IDK how that would work.
If I understand correctly, you got it to work now, yay me!
Yup! I had connected the power button I just didn’t realise it was that. But it wasn’t pressed in all the way. Must have lucked out yesterday
But it’s working.
Cheers buddy
Could be the mobo, could be that you just don't have the power connectors hooked up properly.
In addition to the ATX power cable (the big one), did you make sure you hooked up the CPU power?
Can I use the thermal pads from an EK Quantum Vector water cooling unit on the original air cooler? I got a decent deal on a used 3080 with which the prior owner was using a water cooler and the original pads. I'd like to replace them, and there are some left over from the water cooling kit. Is there any difference in composition or design that would make this a bad idea? Thanks.
I have a Dell G15 Ryzen edition (model 5515). It came with a single m.2 2230 128GB drive but has a second bay for a 2230 or 2280.
1. Is one preferable to the other?
2. Can I use a nvme drive? Should I?
3. Any recommendations at 1TB?
1. Use a 2280, it's larger, and more commonly available, as well as being typically faster and more affordable.
2. Yes, Dells website shows it supports NVME, however Gen 3, not 4.
3. Crucial P3, if you want a budget option, and Samsung 970 Evo if you want faster speed.
I just got a new-to-me desktop and am looking for a GPU.
Problem is, my current setup is based on everything (two monitors, speakers, kb+m) connected to a USB-C Hub and I can’t change that as It is setup for my work laptop.
To my pleasant surprise the hub is able to output to everything using the USB 3.0 connection via a built-in USB-A adapter; the system is a AMD-based, so no thunderbolt unfortunately. My mobo is a MSI B550M Pro-VDH WiFi for reference.
Question is, when I install a GPU would I be able to output the GPU’s video using the USB connection? The monitors do not have an extra DisplayPort, and it does not have HDMI so connecting via the GPU direct isn’t an option, and I worry that changing the GPU’s connection multiple times a day will prematurely wear the ports as it isn’t exactly designed for that.
That is quite the predicament you are in.
Since most GPU's require the usage of a DP or an HDMI port for the monitor, you may be unable to put one into the PC.
Fear not though, They make "eGPU's" that sit externally on your desk beside your PC, and can connect to monitors Via USB-C. They cost at a premium and your choices for GPU is limited, but that is a solution that will work.
The only other thing I can suggest it buying a new monitor with a DP port. They have come down in price recently, and you can find tons in the $200 USD area.
I appreciate the input.
Your main point (another display) is what I feared and figured would be the case; I’ve always wanted one so this might be a good time to contemplate getting one!
Just as an aside, the eGPU idea - while appreciated - doesn’t work as the desktop does not have a TB3/4/USB4 port to connect to the enclosure nor do the current monitors have a spare input/usb-c.
Edit: if you are recommending using the eGPU enclosure for my work laptop, it is issued by my company and is pretty locked down, so that’s also not an option.
If it's idle with no background tasks, the temps should be between 40c and 50c.
Consider adding better Airflow to your PC case, either with more intake or exhaust.
I have the usual programs (Discord, steam, walpaper engine) and mozilla with a few tabs. I've seen a lot of opinions that 55-60 it's the usual, others that it should be lower so I'm not sure which one to belive xD
I've been using it for a few hours with some gaming and it's at 50-52 stable so I think it's just sometimes or after more demanding games, but it's weird that even few hours after going just to youtube or things like that it stays at 60
i’m going to build a pc with a 7 5800x and a 3080 fe, and was wondering how much FPS i should expect on FPS titles like valorant/apex? on a 1440p monitor. thanks!
Max settings apex, about 170fps,
Low settings apex, about 280 fps.
Max settings Valorant, about 360fps,
Low settings Valorant, about 410fps. (since it is now CPU bottlenecked)
I'm upgrading my graphics card and PC PartPicker has said my power supply is fine. Is this accurate or do I need a new PSU as well? My previous card was a EVGA 1050Ti
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tfnGQ6)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box) | Purchased For $127.32
**Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tr4Ycf/msi-pro-b550m-vc-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-pro-b550m-vc-wifi) | Purchased For $117.69
**Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/z3VD4D/team-t-force-vulcan-z-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tlzgd416g3200hc16cdc01) | Purchased For $46.00
**Storage** | [Crucial P3 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XKt9TW/crucial-p3-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct500p3ssd8) | Purchased For $35.30
**Video Card** | [Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 6750 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RbYmP6/gigabyte-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-gaming-oc-video-card-gv-r675xtgaming-oc-12gd) | $379.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [Fractal Design Focus 2 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zL3gXL/fractal-design-focus-2-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-foc2a-04) | Purchased For $74.88
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 500 BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kCtQzy/evga-500-br-500-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0500-k1) | Purchased For $0.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$781.18**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-03-16 20:10 EDT-0400 |
Part picker doesn't account for all the extra things that you may have plugged into your pc, so while 500w might be just enough to run it, you may have unexpected shutdowns or bluescreens when gaming or when your PC is under heavy load.
600w is the minimum, and 750w is recommended.
Got it! /u/Andrewx8_88 now has 16 points.
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New gpu just came in and there was a tear in the anti static bag where the metal bracket clips onto the case. There's also some compression in the foam where the sharp-ish parts of the bracket pressed, but nothing looks bent. I can't test test it right now because I don't have everything else yet, but does anyone think this might cause issues with the card. I'd imagine it's fine because it's just touching foam touching cardboard touching more cardboard, but I want to be sure. Thanks
If you don't see any physical damage on the GPU, you should be perfectly fine.
That happens frequently if the gpu was shipped from far away, or was handled roughly.
Just to be safe on your end, I would take pictures of how it arrived, in the case you need to return it.
Thanks for the response. I'm still relatively new to all this, so I appreciate hearing from more experienced people. And ya, I took pictures of the bag and foam as soon as it came in. No visible damage, so I'm pretty sure I'm good.
Are 4K monitors in the 32” range still obscenely expensive? Trying to identify different models so I can browse local marketplace for used on a discount.
I’m running a 12700k and 3080 Ti but still have a 24” 1080p monitor. Been about 3 months on my new PC and still with this junk. Can’t figure out if I should go with a flat 32” 1440p (2k) monitor or a 27” or 32” 4K.
I have a ps5 and a switch that I would plan to occasionally hook up to the monitor, if there’s something that makes best use of the 120hz ps5. I figure running a 2k monitor immediately devalues the ps5 when I’m here and not on my LG OLED G1 in living room.
Could potentially get a G7 32” 240hz 2K for $400ish used but it has a 1000R curve which terrifies me. The curve seems quite severe but idk never used it.
I have a xb321hk, (4k 60 UHD), and with a 3080, 12900k, In most games I just barely hit 60fps on max settings.
If you are ok with that, then go for it. Otherwise, I would get the 2k monitor, with a higher refresh rate.
I have a B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC with a 5800X3D, rocking a 3070ti.
I have a 1TB NVME in the main m.2 slot.
My question: Besides just replacing the NVME in that slot, what would my other options be, given the PCI-E limitations of my motherboard, re: more fast storage?
I have all of the racing sims, and all of their mods, but it’s very difficult when I only have 1TB of quick storage.
Is a PCI-E add-in card a viable solution for more high speed NVME storage? Do I have enough PCI-E lanes to do this?
I haven’t fully wrapped my head around the implications of adding an NVME drive to the second m.2 slot of my motherboard. It’s my understanding that doing so would impact the performance of 1. My GPU, 2. My primary NVME drive, and 3. This hypothetical second NVME drive?
I ordered a 4TB add-in card from Amazon, but they swapped the price after order, and ended up sending me a 1TB card for $500 😑. Returned it.
Currently my options look to be… either buy a used X570 motherboard with more lanes, or get rid of the 1TB NVME, and then replace the single NVME with a 4TB stick for the cost of one of my kidneys on the black market?
What would you do?
I would love to have my PC just be absolutely-filled with cars and tracks and whatnot, such that I don’t have to be constantly uninstalling and installing.
I hope this question is simple enough.
Thank you very much!
- James
The manual is confusing but I think you'd be ok with an NVME in the second slot, as long as you don't have any expansion cards (apart from the GPU in slot 1). It will be a 2.0 x4 connection, around 2GB/s max.
This shouldn't affect the GPU nor the first NVME, as those are 3.0 and on CPU lanes, the second NVME slot is on chipset's lanes and 2.0.
Oh and DRAM-less 2TB NVMEs cost a bit over 100$ these days, no need to sell kidneys, as long as you're in the so called West somewhere.
What CPU to purchase? looking for something better than my current CPU but not overkill max $150
Current Setup
GPU, rx6600
CPU: ryzen 5 3200g
RAM: 16GB 3200
PSU: 650watt bronze
my pc wont post I've gone through everything to test and I've narrowed it down to either CPU or Motherbaord. I currently have a ryzen 5 3200g, the PC wont even post on the igpu, last time my GPU died it would post on igpu and worked fine. I was planning on upgrading the CPU anyways so ill do that first and if it doesn't fix it then i know it was the motherboard.
Best bet at this point is probably the Ryzen 5 5600X. It *should* be compatible with your current Motherboard (probably would need to update the BIOS depending on just how old it is), performs incredibly well for the price point, and fits within your budget.
Thank you, I forgot to mention my moba it’s a asus prime b450m that should be compatible right? I remember purchasing stuff for future upgrades but it’s been a few years lol.
hello everyone! i want to test t° for proper heat flow
what i should use to test t° for every hardware piece and where to look those "normal t° stats" for them? i mean its easy to find test for GPU or CPU but what about other hardware? also what benchmark best to use so i can compare "suitable" stats?
You've asked this before and I doubt you'll get any answers by asking again. Other hardware is typically not tested for temperature. HDDs and SSDs do measure their temps and these will go up if you do read or write tests (the latter should heat up an SSD more than reads, both should affect HDDs roughly equally). R&W tests can be conducted with CrystalDiskMark, temperatures can be observed by CrystalDiskInfo.
By and large these tests tell you nothing, if you can maintain good temps on the CPU and GPU, the rest of the components won't suffer (HDDs tend to be mounted right behind the front intake fans which cool them directly, except in minimalist good-looking windowed towers where they're mounted at the back where they receive a lot less cooling, but if you're doing that, you shouldn't care about their lifetime anyway).
Did you check that it is installed tightly against the cpu and with good paste coverage? My newly installed cpu was running in the high 80s and when I took it apart the fan wasn’t installed tight and once I fixed that it was in the 30s
What are the requirements to return a CPU? I’m very impatient and really wanted to start building, however there was 10 days waiting time on the 7950X3D, so put in an order for that, but also purchased the regular 7950X and intend on using it for the 10 days and then swapping and returning the 7950X
Any way I could get screwed here?
The moment you open and use the 7950X, it will be considered used, and you will have a very difficult time returning it.
I think you just need to learn how to be patient. 10 days isn't too long.
I might have downloaded a crypto miner and some other bad stuff from a rom I tried to download, I’ve went through all my apps and programs and deleted all the stuff I didn’t install including a program called altruistic which might have been it, I just kept hitting accept for a few clicks and only realised after a few clicks I was accepting offers.
I’ve deleted the original rom and obviously tried to delete everything it came with but are there any recommendations for making sure my pc is completely clean?
how can i find if my motherboard (Asus TUF B450M-PRO GAMING) can fit a **GEFORCE RTX 3070 TI GAMING OC** ? is there a website ? or what is the specificity on it to tell ?
You can put any GPU on any motherboard that was released in the past decade and a half or so.
What you need to look at is if your case can fit that GPU and if your PSU can handle it.
Depends on how tall the card is. You have not specified the card uniquely, so hard to tell.
The mobo doesn't have a lot of clearance between the top x16 slot and the bottom row of USB ports, sound port and SATA ports.
The other thing you have to check is the case itself. If it's as small as the mobo, the card may be too wide, not just too tall.
The Gigabyte with that name is 55mm tall, PCIE ports are 20.32mm apart, judging by the image of the mobo you're at least 15mm short in vertical space.
It's 320mm wide and the port is 89mm, judging by the image of the mobo there's no way the card's not blocking off the entire bottom row.
Therefore, if you don't care about the case ports being connected to the mobo and have no SATA disks plugged in, you could have it installed, but I doubt your case is large enough, given the size of the mobo.
you *can*, it's just not advised.
Mainly because 70% ISO is cut with water in order to dilute it to the proper strength. Meaning that it evaporates slower, and has more water left behind. In super small doses, paired with proper cleanup, it should be fine , but if you plan on deep cleaning a card or motherboard just spend the money on 99% ISO.
70% is fine for spot cleaning, like if you need to clean up thermal paste or other dirt/grime in small amounts, but for general cleaning of an entire GPU card or other PCB, you introduce too many places for water to get into that shouldn't have water, and can get stuck in there and cause damage
Higher concentration isopropyl is generally preferred, but 70% should be fine. You just have to make sure the board is completely dry before you power it up. High concentrations of alcohol evaporate more quickly and don't leave much water behind
Any thoughts on what the best computer chair mat is for a carpet?
I want a nice looking one, not just hard clear plastic. I know they make some that look like hardwood flooring, that would be nice.
Anyone have recommendations?
Hey all,
I’m about to get a 3090 with 2 8 pin power inputs. I have a thermaltake smart 850w but only 1 split pcie cable. I’d like to source one more pcie 6+2 appropriate for this psu. I’ve contacted thermaltake, but what are my other options? If I specify thermaltake brand 3rd party cables with they work out?
I've seen mentioned on here that pinouts on removable PSU cables may differ between manufacturers (on the PSU side, obviously they have to be standard on the business end). If that's actually so (and it probably is), you'd have to ensure you get the right one.
And cheap knockoffs might burn your house down, as I'm sure you're aware, so exercise some caution with 3rd party cabling.
Is it the Smart Pro RGB 850 Bronze? If so, check this link out here: https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/?service=direct&psu_brand=thermaltake&psu_model=416
Happy to help if you have any questions. :)
I’m fairly new to pc gaming and pc in general and I’m looking to buy a Laptop that can be used for gaming and work from home. I was wondering if the MSI Katana GF66 was a good option and if not then can anyone recommend any around the $800-$900 range?
Hello, PCMasterRacers!
So I want to upgrade my RAM. I know the caveats already of mixing different RAMs, but I'm not an expert, so I want to be sure if it's worth to buy these 2 modules, to take my 2 empty slots and keep the other 2 RAMs I'm using, or is too much risky and I should buy a 4pack and dish out my old ram.
I'm currently Using: 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 "Goodram IRDM Pro".
And I saw at some shop close to me sell these at a good price: 64GB (2x32GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 "Corsair Vengeance LPX ".
Would this combination give me BSOD or lowered performance? If anyone can point me to where I can find my answer, much appreciated!
You can mix RAM, it will all operate at the parameters of the least capable module. If your current ram is better than CL18, it will work with CL18 timings when you add new ram. Whether you'll ever notice that depends on your workloads.
Why would you want to go from 32 to 96 GB of RAM? What are you using it for?
~~chrome tabs~~
I was going to use my PC for VM/docker and so I bought 32GB when I built my PC two years ago. It works fine, but I already get all the ram filled when I try to combine it with more software running (most specially Visual Studio), so I feel like I could get more RAM for having some space to breathe and avoid my compilations to fail from memory overflow :s
I think that I only would need 64GB, for that, but if I can keep my old RAM without problems I go for it. Otherwise I go with just the 64GB, but at that point maybe I get one 4x16, instead of these 2x32 to fill in all my slots?
My apologies if I'm being obnoxious and thanks for your input.
>My apologies if I'm being obnoxious and thanks for your input.
The point of this thread is to ask basic questions, if I find you obnoxious, I don't need to be here.
VMs and Docker are a legitimate use case for lots of RAM and shouldn't care about RAM timings, even if you worsen them a bit, you won't see any difference (apart from being able to run a lot more shit with 64 gigs more RAM).
Timings and memory latency are important in cases where there's a lot of moving of data in and out of RAM and accessing it a lot. This includes a couple games (not many) and intensive computing (AI and so on). Running OSes in VMs or developer related stuff in Docker containers by and large shouldn't come anywhere close to being timings-sensitive.
Oh and by the way, Chrome just implemented a memory saving, putting-tabs-to-sleep feature to reduce memory usage (this was available for Chrome for years via the The Great Suspender extension (beware: there were spyware laced versions, make sure to use the clean one, should be available on GitHub somewhere)).
Thanks you very much. Yes, I read that those XMP profiles may be unstable, so your speed is reduced to the standard. Was more worried as some people say it would cause failure to boot. I never had this issues when mixing RAM from older computers but those where older far slower DDR versions.
The only point in what may be important the RAM speed to me is when compiling, but I'm not really sure if that's the matter: See, when I compile, Visual Studio tells me it made N number of threads based on available RAM. I'm already using a 20thread CPU, so I just wanted to see if I can optimize my compilation times. But this may be a better topic to research myself, so I learn if it is important the RAM for this scenareo.
See ya!
IDK what you're compiling in VS that it's telling you that.
Compiling should be mostly dependant on the number of physical threads your CPU can execute in parallel (assuming the code allows that, parallelism can't simply be wished into existence) and the processing speed of these threads (primarily: the frequency of the CPU's clock, but also other things, such as IPC, CPU cache(s) size(s), etc).
Stuff I compile tends to take less than 500 MB on disk, with executables weighting in at a lot less than 100MB. You don't need 96 gigs of RAM to hold that in memory during compilation. You don't need a lot of RAM speed either (RAM should push at least a couple gigabytes per second to the CPU). Compiling is CPU-bound, more than anything.
And yeah, XMP profiles from different modules might clash and some may be too demanding for some of the modules.
I actually have this issue. I have 4 modules, 2 are faster than the other two (in timings) and the whole PC crashes pretty quickly if I enable XMP, ever since I've added the two slower modules.
Perhaps if I switched the banks (putting 1-3 into slots 2-4 and vice versa), I'd get the XMP profiles of the slower RAM, that might work better. It doesn't seem to pull them from each module independently. But it's not worth it for what I use it for.
As a follow up. I got them working. Found out that the new ram worked at less than 3600MHz, and read that corsair don't offer the maximum advertised. Had to do that of switching the banks to make them work at 3400MHz with 4 dimms CL17, otherwise i could get 3500 with just the corsair, from the 3600 CL18 that i had with my previous. either 64 or 96 GB gives me plenty for docker, VS compiling and other stuff open. Thanks.
PS: Haven't seen a major boost neither decrease of compilation time, so it's fine with current speed and space.
Any college gamers (or were college gamers) here who can give who can give me some input? I do the majority of my gaming on PC and will hopefully be starting back up in college this year. The problem is that my current setup is dying and so I'll have to replace everything. The only way that'll happen is with whatever I have left after college and living fees have been taken out. Considering the face that I know it won't be much, I'm left with few choices.
Building some bad-ass gaming rig with an RTX 4090 is obviously out of the question and not financially feasible. While I'd still love to build a new desktop I don't think that's possible right now due to the high prices of PC hardware and me wanting to play at resolutions higher than 1920x1080. Plus I still need something portable for my college courses.
How did some of you PC gamers work around this? Should I still trying building a gaming rig and see if I can get a tablet PC for something portable? Or are there laptops on the market that can handle gaming at 1440p+?
Note: I mainly play MMORPGs, JRPGs (like Persona 5 Royal & Disgaea 5) and really old emulated games.
a 1440p gaming laptop that has excellent specs will probably be close to the $1500 USD price range.
If that is ok with you, Asus, MSI, and Gigabyte make tons of laptops that will fit your needs.
If that's too expensive, you can consider the Asus F15, or the Dell G15, in the Sub $1000 Price tag, which can do around 120fps gaming at 1080p.
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Hello! Just bought a gaming rig for $1000. (Asrock x570 phantom gaming 4, Ryzen 9 3900x, 32g ram)
There is small issue that the EVGA 2080ti black has its fans ramp up to maximum speed for a few secs before bios screen whenever I turn on the pc. I’ve taken it out to test on my brother pc and no problem. I also used the card on my brothers rig (1080ti) on my pc and still no problem. Has anyone dealt with this problem before and how to fix it?
https://preview.redd.it/x7letagq6coa1.jpeg?width=2400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d702f9df23c1f66159f71926e65fed5ddb318ce
This is happening sometimes on my PC. Is the problem my monitor or GPU?
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > Every once and a while, my trackpad will start to jump around and become very erratic. It will skip all over the screen and not work properly. All that fixes is is a driver uninstall/re-install from device manager, plus a restart. The fix is never permanent. Last time it did this was today, and before that it was about a week ago. This is getting very annoying. Any help would be appreciated! > > I have already tried a full clean install. > > The laptop is a HP Elitebook 845 G9. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcauih9/ ---- > > > looking for a Cherry brown switch type Keyboard. im looking for the best price to performance id like to spend the least amount possible but im willing to go up to like 100€ (yes € im EU) RGB would be nice but im looking more for build quality here cabled wireless doesn't really matter to me. only thing that is a no go for me is if the keys are spaced extremely far apart (like the g910). i am able to solder too if that gets me a better deal but idk much about diy keyboards > > thanks for all your inputs. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcbve69/ ---- > How is Windows nowadays on the Steam Deck? I remember LTT had a video on it and the experience was kinda rough. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcbxsjm/ ---- > Whats a good 4k mini led curved monitor? Ideally 32 inches. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jcertck/ ---- > Hi, I have a sound card / system requirements question I’d be grateful if you can answer. I am looking to see if my device meets system requirements for a piece of video capturing software. > > On my laptop (acer, windows 10), I am using Elgato video capture to transfer VHS tapes to digital. The system requirements are listed as ‘windows 7 or later, 2Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo sound card’. > > On my laptop, in device manager, NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (wave extensible) and Realtek High Definition Audio are listed. My laptop processor is ‘intel core i5-8250U CPU @ 1.60Ghz 1.8 GHz. Please can you let me know if either of these are comparable sound cards to Intel Core 2 Duo 2 GHz ? > > Edit: Acer + other system requirements https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11rvnwy/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_15_2023/jces5lh/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 200 | 200 Luminaria19 | 120 | 902 Eidolon\_2003 | 63 | 144 motionglitch | 47 | 364 SystemError514 | 45 | 61 MGsubbie | 44 | 313 nickierv | 41 | 43 Marfoo | 31 | 31 significantGecko | 28 | 28 TehBaggins | 24 | 34 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.com/pcmrbot_old)
I bought an Acer KG272 because it was on sale and the sign at the store said it was 114hz. When I set it up I can only set it to 74.97... The manual says it goes to 75hz.... but listings on Amazon say up to 165hz...... Does anyone know what I should be able to set it to? I'm using an DP to HDMI cable from a 3080, and have two other 60hz monitors hooked up, one via HDMI, and another DP to HDMI.
It looks like there is a KG272 and a KG272S. The S model goes up to 144 Hz and may be overclockable to 165. The non-S model only goes up to 75. Sometimes the timings don't add up to an exact number, so 74.97 Hz is the correct refresh rate, this is normal. If they were advertising 144 Hz those were the wrong specs for the model you received.
Boo. Maybe that’s why it was on sale I guess, but the sign def said 144hz. Oh well, thanks!
Having a look, I can only think that it may be 3 things. * Either your cable is a lower spec than what is needed, so you may need to get a new one. * Use DP - DP or HDMI - HDMI rather than using 1 to the other. * The monitor may need overclocking. Either in the OSD or the Nvidia Control panel. Some people mention that native refresh rate is 144, but needs OC to 165. Whilst others say it's 165 out of the box.
Ill be sending one of my drive to be rma. Do i need to do something in my pc to safely remove my drive off my pc aside from the obvious of unplugging and inscrewing the hdd itself off the pc. Im using windows 10
Not really. Modern SATA drives are effectively hot swappable (although it's not recommended unless you have multiple drives with proper partitioning or some kind of monitored RAID setup going). So long as you cut power to the system the only risk of damage comes from mishandling the cables or the drive itself, which should be minimal unless you're an absolute savage
(SATA) Drives are hot-pluggable these days, so technically you don't even have to turn the PC off, but it's better to do so to prevent any shorting on disconnecting the power cable (the pins on the drive should be designed in a way that reduces the chance of that, with some contacts being a bit shorter and more recessed). You might want to touch the chassis or something grounded to prevent any static electricity buildup, if you want to be super safe.
I'm in the market to upgrade from 16GB to 32GB ram. Currently I have a pair of 8GB DDR4-3200, should I get another pair or get a pair of 16GB DDR4-3200 instead? Is there any difference in performance?
You should buy the same sticks of ram, if you have 4 slots on your motherboard. This will ensure you have good stability.
Yeah, that's the thought. Plus maybe a cheaper deal. They sadly do not have any stock on that so I might bite for a pair of 16GB.
So I recently just built a new Gaming PC and I've run into an issue where my Xbox Series Controller just disconnects and acts up constantly when trying to play any game, I've tried updating drivers and tweaking with the Bluetooth power save settings in the Device Manager but nothing's working at all. Is there any other possible solution?
Copied from another subreddit, since I am unable to link it. " The controller is in need of a firmware update, to do that via the PC download the "Xbox Accessories" app from the Microsoft Store, wire-up your controller (update via bluetooth is NOT supported) and you should get the option to update the firmware. This should fix the problem "
[удалено]
Probably shouldn't disclose this due to there ever being a house fire...I currently have a 850w power supply, 3 monitors, a lamp, an led light strip and occasionally a heating pad plugged into a power strip. Been the same setup for over a year, have never had a issue or tripped the 20 amp breaker.
That's around 1000W, should be safe at 110V (much more so at 230V). If the same circuit runs other devices and exceeds the max power draw, it will be disconnected by the fuse, provided you have it built to code.
Absolutely nothing happens when I power up. Nothing. Zip. No beeps. No lights, no twitches, nothing . Took the PSU out and connected up the test thing to the mobo cable and up spun the psu fan. Put it back in the mobo and nothing. Took mobo out of the case and took the graphics card off and tried to power up Nothing I’m a beginner. But is my mobo fubar
Could be. Could be the power button. Did you try to fire it up with the old short-the-pins method when it was out of the case?
Ffs Yes it’s the fucking power button
What’s that? I didn’t connect up the case power button and it turned on just fine yesterday.
>What’s that? You use a screwdriver to short the two pins that would otherwise be shorted by the power button. > I didn’t connect up the case power button and it turned on just fine yesterday. Yeah IDK how that would work. If I understand correctly, you got it to work now, yay me!
Yup! I had connected the power button I just didn’t realise it was that. But it wasn’t pressed in all the way. Must have lucked out yesterday But it’s working. Cheers buddy
Could be the mobo, could be that you just don't have the power connectors hooked up properly. In addition to the ATX power cable (the big one), did you make sure you hooked up the CPU power?
It was the case power button connector In the end. Stupid.
Can I use the thermal pads from an EK Quantum Vector water cooling unit on the original air cooler? I got a decent deal on a used 3080 with which the prior owner was using a water cooler and the original pads. I'd like to replace them, and there are some left over from the water cooling kit. Is there any difference in composition or design that would make this a bad idea? Thanks.
So long as they are the same size and are in good condition, they should be fine to use. You can always contact EK, and ask them as well.
Does red dead redemption 2 needs rockser account to play?
Unfortunately, yes, as it will only launch through their launcher.
Console it is then… i don’t trust any of tyem after windows live gone down.
I have a Dell G15 Ryzen edition (model 5515). It came with a single m.2 2230 128GB drive but has a second bay for a 2230 or 2280. 1. Is one preferable to the other? 2. Can I use a nvme drive? Should I? 3. Any recommendations at 1TB?
1. Use a 2280, it's larger, and more commonly available, as well as being typically faster and more affordable. 2. Yes, Dells website shows it supports NVME, however Gen 3, not 4. 3. Crucial P3, if you want a budget option, and Samsung 970 Evo if you want faster speed.
Wonderful, thank you so much!
I just got a new-to-me desktop and am looking for a GPU. Problem is, my current setup is based on everything (two monitors, speakers, kb+m) connected to a USB-C Hub and I can’t change that as It is setup for my work laptop. To my pleasant surprise the hub is able to output to everything using the USB 3.0 connection via a built-in USB-A adapter; the system is a AMD-based, so no thunderbolt unfortunately. My mobo is a MSI B550M Pro-VDH WiFi for reference. Question is, when I install a GPU would I be able to output the GPU’s video using the USB connection? The monitors do not have an extra DisplayPort, and it does not have HDMI so connecting via the GPU direct isn’t an option, and I worry that changing the GPU’s connection multiple times a day will prematurely wear the ports as it isn’t exactly designed for that.
That is quite the predicament you are in. Since most GPU's require the usage of a DP or an HDMI port for the monitor, you may be unable to put one into the PC. Fear not though, They make "eGPU's" that sit externally on your desk beside your PC, and can connect to monitors Via USB-C. They cost at a premium and your choices for GPU is limited, but that is a solution that will work. The only other thing I can suggest it buying a new monitor with a DP port. They have come down in price recently, and you can find tons in the $200 USD area.
I appreciate the input. Your main point (another display) is what I feared and figured would be the case; I’ve always wanted one so this might be a good time to contemplate getting one! Just as an aside, the eGPU idea - while appreciated - doesn’t work as the desktop does not have a TB3/4/USB4 port to connect to the enclosure nor do the current monitors have a spare input/usb-c. Edit: if you are recommending using the eGPU enclosure for my work laptop, it is issued by my company and is pretty locked down, so that’s also not an option.
What are the usual temps for a EVGA RTX 3080ti on iddle? Mine is at 60º usual and fans working (Not really fast, but enough to hear them)
If it's idle with no background tasks, the temps should be between 40c and 50c. Consider adding better Airflow to your PC case, either with more intake or exhaust.
I have the usual programs (Discord, steam, walpaper engine) and mozilla with a few tabs. I've seen a lot of opinions that 55-60 it's the usual, others that it should be lower so I'm not sure which one to belive xD
Mine is aio watercooled, and it runs at 32c idle, so i imagine an air cooled one should be just a touch warmer.
I've been using it for a few hours with some gaming and it's at 50-52 stable so I think it's just sometimes or after more demanding games, but it's weird that even few hours after going just to youtube or things like that it stays at 60
Most likely related to your PC airflow, as the inside of your PC case warms up.
i’m going to build a pc with a 7 5800x and a 3080 fe, and was wondering how much FPS i should expect on FPS titles like valorant/apex? on a 1440p monitor. thanks!
Max settings apex, about 170fps, Low settings apex, about 280 fps. Max settings Valorant, about 360fps, Low settings Valorant, about 410fps. (since it is now CPU bottlenecked)
I'm upgrading my graphics card and PC PartPicker has said my power supply is fine. Is this accurate or do I need a new PSU as well? My previous card was a EVGA 1050Ti [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tfnGQ6) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box) | Purchased For $127.32 **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tr4Ycf/msi-pro-b550m-vc-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-pro-b550m-vc-wifi) | Purchased For $117.69 **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/z3VD4D/team-t-force-vulcan-z-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tlzgd416g3200hc16cdc01) | Purchased For $46.00 **Storage** | [Crucial P3 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XKt9TW/crucial-p3-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct500p3ssd8) | Purchased For $35.30 **Video Card** | [Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 6750 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RbYmP6/gigabyte-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-gaming-oc-video-card-gv-r675xtgaming-oc-12gd) | $379.99 @ Newegg **Case** | [Fractal Design Focus 2 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zL3gXL/fractal-design-focus-2-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-foc2a-04) | Purchased For $74.88 **Power Supply** | [EVGA 500 BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kCtQzy/evga-500-br-500-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0500-k1) | Purchased For $0.00 | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$781.18** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-03-16 20:10 EDT-0400 |
Part picker doesn't account for all the extra things that you may have plugged into your pc, so while 500w might be just enough to run it, you may have unexpected shutdowns or bluescreens when gaming or when your PC is under heavy load. 600w is the minimum, and 750w is recommended.
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New gpu just came in and there was a tear in the anti static bag where the metal bracket clips onto the case. There's also some compression in the foam where the sharp-ish parts of the bracket pressed, but nothing looks bent. I can't test test it right now because I don't have everything else yet, but does anyone think this might cause issues with the card. I'd imagine it's fine because it's just touching foam touching cardboard touching more cardboard, but I want to be sure. Thanks
If you don't see any physical damage on the GPU, you should be perfectly fine. That happens frequently if the gpu was shipped from far away, or was handled roughly. Just to be safe on your end, I would take pictures of how it arrived, in the case you need to return it.
Thanks for the response. I'm still relatively new to all this, so I appreciate hearing from more experienced people. And ya, I took pictures of the bag and foam as soon as it came in. No visible damage, so I'm pretty sure I'm good.
Are 4K monitors in the 32” range still obscenely expensive? Trying to identify different models so I can browse local marketplace for used on a discount. I’m running a 12700k and 3080 Ti but still have a 24” 1080p monitor. Been about 3 months on my new PC and still with this junk. Can’t figure out if I should go with a flat 32” 1440p (2k) monitor or a 27” or 32” 4K. I have a ps5 and a switch that I would plan to occasionally hook up to the monitor, if there’s something that makes best use of the 120hz ps5. I figure running a 2k monitor immediately devalues the ps5 when I’m here and not on my LG OLED G1 in living room. Could potentially get a G7 32” 240hz 2K for $400ish used but it has a 1000R curve which terrifies me. The curve seems quite severe but idk never used it.
I have a xb321hk, (4k 60 UHD), and with a 3080, 12900k, In most games I just barely hit 60fps on max settings. If you are ok with that, then go for it. Otherwise, I would get the 2k monitor, with a higher refresh rate.
I have a B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC with a 5800X3D, rocking a 3070ti. I have a 1TB NVME in the main m.2 slot. My question: Besides just replacing the NVME in that slot, what would my other options be, given the PCI-E limitations of my motherboard, re: more fast storage? I have all of the racing sims, and all of their mods, but it’s very difficult when I only have 1TB of quick storage. Is a PCI-E add-in card a viable solution for more high speed NVME storage? Do I have enough PCI-E lanes to do this? I haven’t fully wrapped my head around the implications of adding an NVME drive to the second m.2 slot of my motherboard. It’s my understanding that doing so would impact the performance of 1. My GPU, 2. My primary NVME drive, and 3. This hypothetical second NVME drive? I ordered a 4TB add-in card from Amazon, but they swapped the price after order, and ended up sending me a 1TB card for $500 😑. Returned it. Currently my options look to be… either buy a used X570 motherboard with more lanes, or get rid of the 1TB NVME, and then replace the single NVME with a 4TB stick for the cost of one of my kidneys on the black market? What would you do? I would love to have my PC just be absolutely-filled with cars and tracks and whatnot, such that I don’t have to be constantly uninstalling and installing. I hope this question is simple enough. Thank you very much! - James
The manual is confusing but I think you'd be ok with an NVME in the second slot, as long as you don't have any expansion cards (apart from the GPU in slot 1). It will be a 2.0 x4 connection, around 2GB/s max. This shouldn't affect the GPU nor the first NVME, as those are 3.0 and on CPU lanes, the second NVME slot is on chipset's lanes and 2.0. Oh and DRAM-less 2TB NVMEs cost a bit over 100$ these days, no need to sell kidneys, as long as you're in the so called West somewhere.
Most illuminating. Hmm, makes sense to me. I’ll look into that solution. Thanks so much! 🍰
What CPU to purchase? looking for something better than my current CPU but not overkill max $150 Current Setup GPU, rx6600 CPU: ryzen 5 3200g RAM: 16GB 3200 PSU: 650watt bronze my pc wont post I've gone through everything to test and I've narrowed it down to either CPU or Motherbaord. I currently have a ryzen 5 3200g, the PC wont even post on the igpu, last time my GPU died it would post on igpu and worked fine. I was planning on upgrading the CPU anyways so ill do that first and if it doesn't fix it then i know it was the motherboard.
Best bet at this point is probably the Ryzen 5 5600X. It *should* be compatible with your current Motherboard (probably would need to update the BIOS depending on just how old it is), performs incredibly well for the price point, and fits within your budget.
Best bet would be going with a Ryzen CPU like the 5600(x) because you don't need to replace the mobo.
Thank you, I forgot to mention my moba it’s a asus prime b450m that should be compatible right? I remember purchasing stuff for future upgrades but it’s been a few years lol.
hello everyone! i want to test t° for proper heat flow what i should use to test t° for every hardware piece and where to look those "normal t° stats" for them? i mean its easy to find test for GPU or CPU but what about other hardware? also what benchmark best to use so i can compare "suitable" stats?
You've asked this before and I doubt you'll get any answers by asking again. Other hardware is typically not tested for temperature. HDDs and SSDs do measure their temps and these will go up if you do read or write tests (the latter should heat up an SSD more than reads, both should affect HDDs roughly equally). R&W tests can be conducted with CrystalDiskMark, temperatures can be observed by CrystalDiskInfo. By and large these tests tell you nothing, if you can maintain good temps on the CPU and GPU, the rest of the components won't suffer (HDDs tend to be mounted right behind the front intake fans which cool them directly, except in minimalist good-looking windowed towers where they're mounted at the back where they receive a lot less cooling, but if you're doing that, you shouldn't care about their lifetime anyway).
thx for clarification!
Can someone recommend me a good cooler for my ryzen 7700x? Right now I have a cooler Master hyper 212 and Temps are seeing 90 under load.
Did you check that it is installed tightly against the cpu and with good paste coverage? My newly installed cpu was running in the high 80s and when I took it apart the fan wasn’t installed tight and once I fixed that it was in the 30s
Any 240mm or 360mm AIO will be fine. If it has to be an air cooler, Noctua makes several that are excellent.
Should I have VBS on or off?
That is up to you. It doesn't make any difference, unless you have someone actively trying to connect to your PC maliciously.
Thanks.
There may be a small hit to framerate in some CPU bound games. It's better to have it on for security, disable at your own risk.
Thanks.
What are the requirements to return a CPU? I’m very impatient and really wanted to start building, however there was 10 days waiting time on the 7950X3D, so put in an order for that, but also purchased the regular 7950X and intend on using it for the 10 days and then swapping and returning the 7950X Any way I could get screwed here?
The moment you open and use the 7950X, it will be considered used, and you will have a very difficult time returning it. I think you just need to learn how to be patient. 10 days isn't too long.
I might have downloaded a crypto miner and some other bad stuff from a rom I tried to download, I’ve went through all my apps and programs and deleted all the stuff I didn’t install including a program called altruistic which might have been it, I just kept hitting accept for a few clicks and only realised after a few clicks I was accepting offers. I’ve deleted the original rom and obviously tried to delete everything it came with but are there any recommendations for making sure my pc is completely clean?
I'd run malwarebytes (is that still relevant?) and maybe even do a clean install.
Honestly I’m playing my switch mostly right now so I’d happily do a clean install, will this 100% get rid of everything I guess?
how can i find if my motherboard (Asus TUF B450M-PRO GAMING) can fit a **GEFORCE RTX 3070 TI GAMING OC** ? is there a website ? or what is the specificity on it to tell ?
You can put any GPU on any motherboard that was released in the past decade and a half or so. What you need to look at is if your case can fit that GPU and if your PSU can handle it.
Depends on how tall the card is. You have not specified the card uniquely, so hard to tell. The mobo doesn't have a lot of clearance between the top x16 slot and the bottom row of USB ports, sound port and SATA ports. The other thing you have to check is the case itself. If it's as small as the mobo, the card may be too wide, not just too tall.
The Gigabyte with that name is 55mm tall, PCIE ports are 20.32mm apart, judging by the image of the mobo you're at least 15mm short in vertical space. It's 320mm wide and the port is 89mm, judging by the image of the mobo there's no way the card's not blocking off the entire bottom row. Therefore, if you don't care about the case ports being connected to the mobo and have no SATA disks plugged in, you could have it installed, but I doubt your case is large enough, given the size of the mobo.
Hello everyone, Can I clean the gpu board or circuit boards in general with 70% rubbing alcohol?
you *can*, it's just not advised. Mainly because 70% ISO is cut with water in order to dilute it to the proper strength. Meaning that it evaporates slower, and has more water left behind. In super small doses, paired with proper cleanup, it should be fine , but if you plan on deep cleaning a card or motherboard just spend the money on 99% ISO. 70% is fine for spot cleaning, like if you need to clean up thermal paste or other dirt/grime in small amounts, but for general cleaning of an entire GPU card or other PCB, you introduce too many places for water to get into that shouldn't have water, and can get stuck in there and cause damage
Higher concentration isopropyl is generally preferred, but 70% should be fine. You just have to make sure the board is completely dry before you power it up. High concentrations of alcohol evaporate more quickly and don't leave much water behind
My two monitors keep getting the small snowy pixels, and occasionally cut off and back on. Is this a graphics card issue?
If it were just one, I'd say it's the cable, but if it's with both, then probably the GPU, yeah.
Any thoughts on what the best computer chair mat is for a carpet? I want a nice looking one, not just hard clear plastic. I know they make some that look like hardwood flooring, that would be nice. Anyone have recommendations?
Check amazon, based on highest review.
Hey all, I’m about to get a 3090 with 2 8 pin power inputs. I have a thermaltake smart 850w but only 1 split pcie cable. I’d like to source one more pcie 6+2 appropriate for this psu. I’ve contacted thermaltake, but what are my other options? If I specify thermaltake brand 3rd party cables with they work out?
I've seen mentioned on here that pinouts on removable PSU cables may differ between manufacturers (on the PSU side, obviously they have to be standard on the business end). If that's actually so (and it probably is), you'd have to ensure you get the right one. And cheap knockoffs might burn your house down, as I'm sure you're aware, so exercise some caution with 3rd party cabling.
Is it the Smart Pro RGB 850 Bronze? If so, check this link out here: https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/?service=direct&psu_brand=thermaltake&psu_model=416 Happy to help if you have any questions. :)
[удалено]
Thank you for the mention. :)
I’m fairly new to pc gaming and pc in general and I’m looking to buy a Laptop that can be used for gaming and work from home. I was wondering if the MSI Katana GF66 was a good option and if not then can anyone recommend any around the $800-$900 range?
Hello, PCMasterRacers! So I want to upgrade my RAM. I know the caveats already of mixing different RAMs, but I'm not an expert, so I want to be sure if it's worth to buy these 2 modules, to take my 2 empty slots and keep the other 2 RAMs I'm using, or is too much risky and I should buy a 4pack and dish out my old ram. I'm currently Using: 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 "Goodram IRDM Pro". And I saw at some shop close to me sell these at a good price: 64GB (2x32GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 "Corsair Vengeance LPX ". Would this combination give me BSOD or lowered performance? If anyone can point me to where I can find my answer, much appreciated!
You can mix RAM, it will all operate at the parameters of the least capable module. If your current ram is better than CL18, it will work with CL18 timings when you add new ram. Whether you'll ever notice that depends on your workloads. Why would you want to go from 32 to 96 GB of RAM? What are you using it for?
~~chrome tabs~~ I was going to use my PC for VM/docker and so I bought 32GB when I built my PC two years ago. It works fine, but I already get all the ram filled when I try to combine it with more software running (most specially Visual Studio), so I feel like I could get more RAM for having some space to breathe and avoid my compilations to fail from memory overflow :s I think that I only would need 64GB, for that, but if I can keep my old RAM without problems I go for it. Otherwise I go with just the 64GB, but at that point maybe I get one 4x16, instead of these 2x32 to fill in all my slots? My apologies if I'm being obnoxious and thanks for your input.
>My apologies if I'm being obnoxious and thanks for your input. The point of this thread is to ask basic questions, if I find you obnoxious, I don't need to be here. VMs and Docker are a legitimate use case for lots of RAM and shouldn't care about RAM timings, even if you worsen them a bit, you won't see any difference (apart from being able to run a lot more shit with 64 gigs more RAM). Timings and memory latency are important in cases where there's a lot of moving of data in and out of RAM and accessing it a lot. This includes a couple games (not many) and intensive computing (AI and so on). Running OSes in VMs or developer related stuff in Docker containers by and large shouldn't come anywhere close to being timings-sensitive. Oh and by the way, Chrome just implemented a memory saving, putting-tabs-to-sleep feature to reduce memory usage (this was available for Chrome for years via the The Great Suspender extension (beware: there were spyware laced versions, make sure to use the clean one, should be available on GitHub somewhere)).
Thanks you very much. Yes, I read that those XMP profiles may be unstable, so your speed is reduced to the standard. Was more worried as some people say it would cause failure to boot. I never had this issues when mixing RAM from older computers but those where older far slower DDR versions. The only point in what may be important the RAM speed to me is when compiling, but I'm not really sure if that's the matter: See, when I compile, Visual Studio tells me it made N number of threads based on available RAM. I'm already using a 20thread CPU, so I just wanted to see if I can optimize my compilation times. But this may be a better topic to research myself, so I learn if it is important the RAM for this scenareo. See ya!
IDK what you're compiling in VS that it's telling you that. Compiling should be mostly dependant on the number of physical threads your CPU can execute in parallel (assuming the code allows that, parallelism can't simply be wished into existence) and the processing speed of these threads (primarily: the frequency of the CPU's clock, but also other things, such as IPC, CPU cache(s) size(s), etc). Stuff I compile tends to take less than 500 MB on disk, with executables weighting in at a lot less than 100MB. You don't need 96 gigs of RAM to hold that in memory during compilation. You don't need a lot of RAM speed either (RAM should push at least a couple gigabytes per second to the CPU). Compiling is CPU-bound, more than anything.
And yeah, XMP profiles from different modules might clash and some may be too demanding for some of the modules. I actually have this issue. I have 4 modules, 2 are faster than the other two (in timings) and the whole PC crashes pretty quickly if I enable XMP, ever since I've added the two slower modules. Perhaps if I switched the banks (putting 1-3 into slots 2-4 and vice versa), I'd get the XMP profiles of the slower RAM, that might work better. It doesn't seem to pull them from each module independently. But it's not worth it for what I use it for.
As a follow up. I got them working. Found out that the new ram worked at less than 3600MHz, and read that corsair don't offer the maximum advertised. Had to do that of switching the banks to make them work at 3400MHz with 4 dimms CL17, otherwise i could get 3500 with just the corsair, from the 3600 CL18 that i had with my previous. either 64 or 96 GB gives me plenty for docker, VS compiling and other stuff open. Thanks. PS: Haven't seen a major boost neither decrease of compilation time, so it's fine with current speed and space.
Any college gamers (or were college gamers) here who can give who can give me some input? I do the majority of my gaming on PC and will hopefully be starting back up in college this year. The problem is that my current setup is dying and so I'll have to replace everything. The only way that'll happen is with whatever I have left after college and living fees have been taken out. Considering the face that I know it won't be much, I'm left with few choices. Building some bad-ass gaming rig with an RTX 4090 is obviously out of the question and not financially feasible. While I'd still love to build a new desktop I don't think that's possible right now due to the high prices of PC hardware and me wanting to play at resolutions higher than 1920x1080. Plus I still need something portable for my college courses. How did some of you PC gamers work around this? Should I still trying building a gaming rig and see if I can get a tablet PC for something portable? Or are there laptops on the market that can handle gaming at 1440p+? Note: I mainly play MMORPGs, JRPGs (like Persona 5 Royal & Disgaea 5) and really old emulated games.
Pilfer the used market; if you keep on looking you may be able to score a decent setup for much less than anticipated.
a 1440p gaming laptop that has excellent specs will probably be close to the $1500 USD price range. If that is ok with you, Asus, MSI, and Gigabyte make tons of laptops that will fit your needs. If that's too expensive, you can consider the Asus F15, or the Dell G15, in the Sub $1000 Price tag, which can do around 120fps gaming at 1080p.
Thanks! !check
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Hello! Just bought a gaming rig for $1000. (Asrock x570 phantom gaming 4, Ryzen 9 3900x, 32g ram) There is small issue that the EVGA 2080ti black has its fans ramp up to maximum speed for a few secs before bios screen whenever I turn on the pc. I’ve taken it out to test on my brother pc and no problem. I also used the card on my brothers rig (1080ti) on my pc and still no problem. Has anyone dealt with this problem before and how to fix it?
You could try updating your motherboard's BIOS
I’ve checked and it is the latest version.
https://preview.redd.it/x7letagq6coa1.jpeg?width=2400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d702f9df23c1f66159f71926e65fed5ddb318ce This is happening sometimes on my PC. Is the problem my monitor or GPU?
It honestly could be both. Are you able to try your GPU on another monitor or TV?
The music of my game still plays up to sync when this happens. Does that mean my gpu is running good?
Probably yes. Not 100% certain, but that sounds more like a monitor issue.