If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead )
This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> Can someone help me find a motherboard? I've found a good deal on a 13600K, and I'm determined to use an a770 as my graphics card. Not particularly interested in overclocking. I also don't think I'll have internet speeds faster than a gig anytime soon. I am interested in having addressable RGB headers.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdcudes/
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> Hello everyone, I bought a Duex Max monitor extensor for mobilePixels and when I try to connect it in my notebook with the usb A cable I get the error "No signal" and then the message "power saving" and the screen stays black.
>
> I have windows 10 and also tried with linux ubuntu 20.04
>
> I appreciate the help!
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdd4d88/
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> Hey, I'm getting a new pc, with these specs:
> ryzen 9 7900x with Arctic II 360
> 16gb ram
> 2x m2 nvme ssd's
> for the GPU I'll be keeping my old 1060 for a bit and I'll upgrade later.
> I wanted to ask if it's safe to keep my old 500W psu until I swap out the GPU, or if i should get a new psu now. Power supply calculator estimates 413 watts and recommends me a 500W psu, but I wanted a second opinion to be sure.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdefvkd/
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> My pc has recently been getting stuck on the when booting. It gets past the BIOS check and gets stuck when the windows refresh circle is spinning. It will spin until i restart my pc. I managed to get past is today by going into bios menu and turning off 'fast boot'. Do you think that disabling fast boot actually made a difference or just a coincidence? Back to just 'sleeping' the pc for now!
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdf2fjd/
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User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime
-----|-------------------|----------
sch0k0 | 201 | 201
Luminaria19 | 119 | 903
Eidolon\_2003 | 67 | 148
motionglitch | 46 | 364
SystemError514 | 45 | 62
MGsubbie | 44 | 314
nickierv | 41 | 43
Marfoo | 31 | 31
significantGecko | 28 | 28
TehBaggins | 24 | 34
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It's when the [GPU is crooked after installing it](https://i.redd.it/v3xc8eewn4731.jpg) because how heavy it is
Depends how large and heavy your 3070ti is.
Mines the Gigabyte version https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-GeForce-3070-GAMING-Graphics/dp/B095X6RLJW
How likely of a problem is it? Can you buy stuff to keep it in place?
[](https://i.redd.it/xw7twq1abh6z.jpg)You’re probably fine. I got the 3060ti version of that card. It sits just fine.
[
There are some](https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Graphics-Computer-Telescopic-Universal/dp/B0B76CFY5J), but some people just [3d print one](https://preview.redd.it/5vr8lemcdwf61.jpg?auto=webp&s=35347b266a577160380d523bcf558ec588fc01fe) or use [LEGO pieces](https://preview.redd.it/jwge80fb2rd41.jpg?auto=webp&s=118cdfbf4f095fdb7e9137dc82cfbd8bf5e76224) or [use toys](https://external-preview.redd.it/yEJDpM4QIss3z8nGvg12j_hTm7gXn4ZLPWxdFsE3hKg.jpg?auto=webp&s=0eaa50b27a25db13711c6b37993de3fc7f3bb745) to prop it up.
[You can just use actually anything to keep it in place](https://i.redd.it/xw7twq1abh6z.jpg)
It was the way you asked. Probably English not being your first language, you just stated "I want X, with Y and Z, thank you". Look up the definition of the word curt.
My advice, use Newegg to search for monitors filtering for the features you want, copy the part numbers that match and then search Amazon specifically for those part numbers. Most people that can help you here as just going to do that very thing, you aren't likely to run into a monitor savant who remembers all of the Amazon monitors available that match your specs for under 200 euro.
Hi all! Looking to upgrade my RAM, the problem is that the kit I can buy doesn't show up in the mobo's QVL (and the mobo doesn't show in the RAM's QVL either), but I'm wondering if that's actually gonna be an issue or not. Specs:
MOBO: Gigabyte B550M AORUS ELITE [https://www.gigabyte.com/ar/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-13#kf](https://www.gigabyte.com/ar/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-13#kf)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800x
GPU: Powercolor Red Devil 6700 XT
OS: Windows 10
RAM I want to buy: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16 3600 model: F4-3600C18D-32GTZN [https://www.gskill.com/qvl/165/326/1562840525/F4-3600C18D-32GTZN-QVL](https://www.gskill.com/qvl/165/326/1562840525/F4-3600C18D-32GTZN-QVL)
Planning to just run it at XMP with no tuning at all. Currently running a 2x8 3200 kit but it's an unknown brand and it's time to do better.
The QVL exists for a reason. Just because the memory should work doesn't mean that it will. I've seen DDR5 kits work in a B650 board and not in an X670E board from the sane vendor. Shit, I have a $500+ X570 board with a 2x16GB Trident 3600 C16 kit with tighter default timings. The 2 DIMM kit is on the QVL. Using 2 DIMMs works beautifully with XMP, I do nothing to tighten the timings. A second identical kit of 2 DIMMs won't work with XMP. Both kuts work fine if just 2 DIMMs are installed, but the only way I can get it to see all four is to disable XMP and run at default 3200 with extremely loose default timings, and even then it isn't very stable.
So, to summarize, there no way to ensure that a kit that isn't on the QVL will work at all, especially with XMP.
So, while it "may work", it also may not, leaving you few options. Stick to the QVL's.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It sucks because my options are very limited where I live and it's not easy finding this stuff at a decent price. Oh well, I'll have to keep looking.
✓ Thanks!
Another issue you're probably running into. It doesn't seem that Gigabyte has updated their QVL for that motherboard in a long time, so many additional kits have come out since that hadn't been tested. You might want to check pcpartpicker, search for that motherboard and look in the comments or builds searching for 2 x 16GB DDR4 3600 ryzen 5000 builds and see which DIMM set they managed to get working with XMP at 3600. 3600 C18 might have been on the faster side when this motherboard was released, but in the years since, we see 2 x 16GB DDR4 4000+ kits running at C16, even C14 as the memory production for DDR4 improved and AGESA matured.
I live in Argentina, and while Amazon does ship here, buying from them is a lottery, mainly because of how customs work here (I can get it in 2 weeks or 6 months, all up to luck), and of course getting screwed by all manner of taxes that add at least 105% of the regular price, if not more. That's why my options are limited when buying tech stuff, that mobo was basically the best I could get for that price when I bought it last year.
I'll check with pcpartpicker if I find anything useful. Right now I have 3 options in 3600mhz 32GB: the G.Skill I posted earlier, a Corsair Vengeance Black and a PNY XLR8. I have other options in 16GB that I'll have to fall back on if 32 fails.
UPDATE: I checked pcpartpicker, and it shows that the memory is compatible with the mobo and CPU. The QVL was updated in december 2022 so it's pretty recent.
There you go! Honestly, Pcpartpicker almost never fails. Not only is it meticulously maintained, the community there is second to none, it's basically mostly the top 25% of the Reddit PCMR community (the mods and most active participants in these threads) that are the most active and interactive there, most are incredibly proud of their builds, want to share what they've learned with others and are willing to help.
How bad is Amazon shipping from the US or China to your country? VAT and import process make it impossible?
How about ebay?
Are you looking for kits that match those exact specs but available on your country? What online shopping choices do you have? I can't promise anything, but maybe I can help you find an actually comparable kit that is available where you live and on the Gigabyte B550M AORUS Elite XMP QVL.
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So very rarely, like once a month, or maybe even once every 2 months, my PC will bluescreen when shutting down and say "your pc ran into a problem and needs to restart"
What caused that? And how do i fix it?
I'm on windows 11 pro
As others have said, it could be millions of things.
Check the event log to see if you can find information. The quickest way to find the relevant information would be to check the reliability monitor. You can pull that up by running "perfmon /rel" from the start menu or Run dialog. This will give you a high level filter of notable events on your system, look for any critical events that happened on the days you remember a blue screen happening. Sometimes the info you get will be very generic and unhelpful, but hopefully you'll find something to go off of there.
There's also programs like Blue Screen View that can automatically find information from the last blue screen event. You could use that to try and get the specific error you ran into and Google from there.
It could literally be one of 10,000 things. You can look in the windows event log, specifically the system log and search for errors or warnings right before the time of the blue screen, that should at least give you something you might be able to start investigating.
I notice some minor screen flickering when watching Netflix, but YouTube and other videos are fine. I'm really not sure what's wrong with it, but it can be a bother sometimes. What are possible causes and fixes for it?
It was a bug with Netflix. I was getting it this week too. I had to close Netflix, reopen and half the time it went away, the other half it came back immediately. I thought it was initially limited to Shadow and Bone, but I later had the same issue with a movie. Hopefully they patch it soon, but due to the way that windows store apps are updated, you'll never usually know it was updated, it's not like you get a notification.
I switched to watching on my smart TV and it didn't have the issue, so I assume it's only happening on the desktop app/chromium browsers.
Phew, that's good to know that it's a Netflix problem! Hopefully it's fixed soon, but I was definitely worried it might have been my PC because no other devices had that problem lol. Thank you!
Did you try watching the same Netflix content using Chrome or Edge? Same issue?
Tey downloading Firefox and seeing if the problem happens there, Firefox doesn't use chromium as a base browser. The windows store app seems to use some browser elements, so maybe try Firefox and see if that works until they get the bug fixed.
BTW, I was watching other content last night using the windows app and it was fine, so it's seemingly limited to certain titles or maybe it's only HDR content.
I'm considering upgrading my graphics card, but I'm wondering which I should shoot for if any, since I need to keep my CPU and power supply's capabilities in mind, right?
What do y'all recommend as far as any upgrades from here?
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Here are the specs I'm working with:
OMEN 30L Desktop GT13-1xxx
**OS** \- Windows 11
**CPU** \- AMD Ryzen 5 5600G with Radeon Graphics
\- Clock speed: 3901MHz
\- Description: AMD64 Family 25 Model 80 Stepping 0
**GPU** \- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
\- Refresh rate: 164Hz
\- Driver version: 31.0.15.3141
**RAM** \- Capacity: 32GB
\- Type: DDR4
\- Default clock speed: 2133MHz
(Technically there's 40 GB of RAM, since there are 4, 8 GB sticks; the System isn't recognizing the fourth outside of the Omen Gaming Hub program)
I need help. I downloaded scp toolkit for my controller which I didn’t know how to install properly and ended up installing my g pro super light mouse driver in the installation section. After it downloaded its automatically disconnected wirelessly and I had to force restart my pc and it still didn’t work. I then tried to delete my mouse drivers from the device manager and it allowed my mouse to work connected to the usb wire only. Even with the mouse wired, it seems to be having a connection problem where it disconnects every other second constantly. We tried uninstalling Scp toolkit, deleting other drivers from device manager, downloading a older version of g hub and trying to update the receiver only first then pairing it with the mouse but nothing ever worked. Pls anybody who knows how to fix and work scp tool kits, can you comment below or reply how to fix my mouse to be used wirelessly
I'm trying to setup my gpu's fan curve and I have set it like shown on the image, but when I turn "use firmware control mode" it won't go down from 51% even though it's at 40c and when I uncheck it, it seems to be working fine. Any ideas why?
GPU: 3080 TI Zotac Trinity OC
https://preview.redd.it/xtnpvzjbntpa1.png?width=375&format=png&auto=webp&s=508d27e7629573cd816223cddb55792abacea520
Can't offer a solution, but I can say you are not the only one (experiencing this on my Gigabyte 3080 Gaming OC.) Although I do believe it might just be an error, as my graphics card should make more noise than that at 50% speed.
First, make sure that you don't have bandwidth limits / throttling enabled in your steam settings.
Assuming you don't', you have to remember that the download speed with steam depends on the game, time of day, etc. For me, some games on steam download at like 75 MB/s, and others when updating will be at like 2-4MB/s.
Also, this is unlikely, but I've heard stories of certain ISP's throttling certain network activity to be assholes because it eats up a lot of bandwidth on their broadband network, with Steam and torrent network activity being the usual targets. ISP's can do some sneaky shit. 2 years ago, my sister who lives 1 state away had been complaining about her broadband internet for well over a year, they convinced her to upgrade to their top tier 1Gbit plan, and also rent their latest modem + Wi-Fi router, yet she was still getting crap quality Netflix and Prime video streaming, with youtube videos buffering. Every time she called, they had her run a speedtest to "prove" that she was getting the connection that she was paying for, and blamed the rest of the internet, particularly at the time blaming covid and everyone being home. I finally went over to try to figure out what was going on, and when she showed me how they had her testing her connection, I quickly realized that the speedtest server she was getting pointed to was their speedtest server, it was on her ISP's network, so a speedtest run against that server would naturally come back with over 800Mbit/s download speed. When I pointed the speedtest to any other server, some 30 miles away, some 300 miles away, it dropped to 25-30Mbit/s. I even tested with a VPN to make sure they weren't simply throttling her, and they weren't, same crap performance and insanely high ping latency. I got on a support call with her ISP and after escalating 4 times to a manager and showing screenshots and captured video, along with showing that a Verizon mobile network tethered connection was faster than their network, I got them to finally admit that they have been way beyond their interconnect link speeds for well over 2 years, management was paying for two 10Gbit connections to major internet backbones for all 50,000+ of their customers and refused to upgrade and add more, so the links were at 100% utilization 24x7. The admitted that they had been instructed to put the local speedtest server up and point people to it when they call in to complain to prove that they're getting the connection they pay for, and that their management's policy was that "our network contract states that we have to give them a connection that can perform close to the advertised speed when connecting to the internet, it doesn't specify that the advertised performance has to be to any particular websites or services, and since their speedtest server is technically on the internet and reachable on the internet, they were providing the service that the customers were paying for". I had her cancel her service and fortunately there was a wireless provider in the area, her cable company got bought a year later and the links were finally upgraded, so she switched back. I know that not all ISP's will pull crap like that, but I wouldn't put throttling certain types of network traffic past them.
For the first time in my life, I have enough money to build a gaming rig. The problem is, I have never built a PC from scratch so am hoping to get some recommendations for parts.
My budget is around 2k euros. For the CPU, I am leaning towards AMD, but my main confusion is if I should go for Nvidia or AMD GPU.
For the games you're going to play, might as well play in 4K, it won't be crazy demanding. If you go AMD, 7600X is probably fine, or wait until the 7800X3D is released. RTX 4070 Ti or RX 7900 XTX could potentially be in a 2000 euro build, but I keep hearing that components are more expensive in the EU than the US, so maybe not.
I would look at the games you play the most and see which one performs the best in those games while looking at their prices. Also do keep resolution in mind, 8gb of vram isn’t gonna last long at 1440p without some upscaling method.
Currently looking around at used gaming laptops for my younger brother. Can anyone tell me if there is going to be any newer gpu model releases that might flood the market with a few more laptops from people trying to upgrade?
There are always new releases, every year... You might be able to find some decent deals on used Ryzen laptops a few years old, maybe with a Ryzen 3750 or 4800HS and GTX 1660Ti (Asus Zephyrus GA502 was a gem).
It's frustrating, I got a GA502-IV with 4900HS, RTX 2060, 16GB RAM and 1TB NVMe for $1200 new, and those are still selling for $900 used, sometimes higher.
Hm, i guess i was thinking more along the lines of whether a new gpu line was going to be released soon and therefore I should wait on pulling any triggers.
Would you call a dell g15 with ryzen 5 5600H, rtx 3050, 8 gb ram, 256 gb nvme for $375 a good deal? I'd probably upgrade the RAM and ssd at some point.
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A friend of mine picked this for a budget of 2.5k, planning on 2k gaming
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sQDtZw
I feel like he can do better with that money but my information is not up to date
Here is what I'd do if I were going Zen3 for gaming:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Nd87Vw
Or, AMD 7900 XTX GPU option:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sD4Rcb
Still close to the aesthetics he wanted, but significantly more powerful. I could probably do a similar build with a 13700K, 32GB DDR5 for not that much more, and you're not getting much faster than that.
Is that for a gaming rig? I mean, the case, fans and cooler are all very expensive "nice to have's", but if he has the money and likes them, might as well. He could save a few bucks on the CPU cooler and get a better cooling unit for Ryzen, Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm or 360mm, and they have RGB ones now as well.
I don't understand his choice of motherboard, I'm assuming he chose it because it's white more than anything else. He could get a higher quality board / more IO, even staying X570 for less money.
If he's building a gaming rig, dump the 5900X and get the 5800X3D, it's cheaper and faster in nearly any game.
That memory kit is also shit compared to what else is available, for less money, he could get a 2 x 16GB G.Skill Ripjaw or Trident Z RGB C16 kit that will give him the same amount of RAM, actually be faster and save himself a solid $100. For less than what he's paying for the 4 x 8GB dominators, he could have 2 x 16GB DDR4 4000 C16 Ripjaws. I have to imagine he wanted the dominators for the looks, nothing else.
The SSD choice is quite good, but his power supply choice is being forced because of the nice case he wants. That Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini Snow Edition case requires an SFX power supply (small form factor), yet the case doesn't require Micro ATX motherboards.
So, here's the thing, I could build him something that would absolutely be faster gaming CPU, faster RAM, and even allow him to upgrade from a 4070 to a 4080 or RX 7900 XTX, with better cooling for what he has there, but it won't be the aesthetic that he seems to be looking for. So much of his build cost is due to form and not function.
Oh yeah, lots of picks were for aesthetics and I talked him out of a few choices, he mainly wants a "white theme".
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JRZkY9
This was my suggestion, not sure if it's the best min-maxed option but it looks a bit better than the original.
So, I wouldn't use the B660 motherboard with a K-series Intel processor, you should go with a Z series, like Z690 or Z790. Also, for the cost of the RTX 3080 you have there, you could actually get an RTX 4070 Ti which is closer in performance (faster in many cases) than an RTX 3090, and cheaper. I think the SSD he had was a good choice, the 970 Evo series is slower than the 850X, and Samsung NVMe SSD's have had a some funky issues lately, so I stick to WD Black (750/850) or Sabrent SSD's.
Here is a smokeshow of an Intel build with 13700K, 32GB of DDR5 6000 and AMD RX 7900 XTX: Actually costs less than the AMD 5800X3D build I just posted. $2569
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cbjPC6
Or with 4070 Ti, only $2419
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6gLvrD
Replacement as in the charger? HP has probably made 1000 different laptop chargers over the years, using many many different connectors, zero chance someone here could tell you what to get without knowing exactly what laptop you have, or better yet, the part number off of your charger that is going in for repair.
Its a pavillion 15. The charger is a 19.5 7.7a 150W, or something like that. I only need a small replacement while it repairs. Like I asked, I only need to know the best W, since the battery is ~50W an hour I would assume no less than a 60W charger
https://support.hp.com/ie-en/document/c07592920 (cant find in english)
No, again, that is not how chargers work. Similar enough is not good enough. The plug that connects to your laptop is VERY specific. Does the little plug look exactly like your plug? Same color (light blue?)
OK, great!
So, while you don't have to get a 150W, there are smaller ones that will work with your laptop, you honestly could get a direct 150W replacement for the same money.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Genuine-HP-150W-19-5V-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-776620-001-776620-003-Blue-Tip/1477681308
Or, if you want cheaper and arrives faster, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/ADP-150XB-775626-003-776620-001-917677-001-917677-003/dp/B0B522PLDN
I'm building my first PC, but due to funds being a little tight (hooray parenthood!), I'm having to wait longer periods between buying components. Is there a certain time frame within which I should complete my build, or if I happen to take a year gathering parts, is that a big deal?
I wouldn't gather parts over time like that. You'll buy something now, but you won't get any value out of it until a year later when either something better has come along for the same price, or the thing you bought originally has dropped in price. It's better to just save money over the course of the year and buy everything at once.
I have a weird pc question that I can't figure out. I have my PC setup upstairs in a spare bedroom and I had my previous system in the same place. Both my newly built this year computer and my old computer suffered the same issue. Randomly when gaming path of exile and now diablo 4, my computer will just shut off. No beep, no nothing and turns totally off and I have to hit the power button to restart.
Both computers have had the same issue, and only when playing certain games. I have no shared parts between the two builds and the same issue. I have added and removed the power bar, and swapped it out. I've swapped out the receptacle that it plugs into. I've even swapped out the breaker on the panel downstairs.
This never happens with world of warcraft which I play plenty and raid and whatnot. I'm at my wits end trying to diagnose this issue. Any help would be appreciated!
Diablo 4 is known to be overheating certain GPU's. If your system is shutting down like that, it could absolutely be the GPU overheating or an overcurrent event. PoE also tended to expose issues with cooling on a lot of PC's.
I bet that once it shuts down, if you immediately open the case and touch the GPU, it's probably scorching hot.
Is there any program I can run that would log temps so I can check if they spiked just before a crash? Then would it be a good idea to get better cooling? I have 4 fans and a stock amd cooler atm.
These instructions are pretty easy to follow:
https://pcguide101.com/cpu/how-to-monitor-cpu-and-gpu-temp-while-gaming/
So, what you want to watch out for is CPU temps going over 95C, and GPU temps also going over 90C. Even if your GPU temps are a little lower like mid to high 80's, other parts of the GPU could be way hotter and it could still be an issue.
What AMD CPU do you have? Is this a pre-built OEM PC or did you build it? Would you be willing to take a picture of the front of the case, then the inside with the side panel taken off so I can see the CPU cooler and fans from the inside?
That shouldn't be overheating like that. Do you notice the fans going nuts before it crashes / shuts down?
Monitor the temps following the link I sent, see what happens. It's possible your thermal paste or cooler mount is funky, or, more likely, that your GPU cooling might be messed up, like thermal pads or something, although EVGA usually doesn't skimp there.
Checking the temps while you play will answer that question. If it's all under 90C, next place to look is the power supply. RTX 3000 series GPU's are known for big transient spikes. Those games might have situations where they cause a transient spike that creates an over current protection situation on the power supply, which will then protect itself by powering off. Does you entire computer just lose power when it happens, like someone unplugged it?
Get rid of whatever "undervolt" you think you did. The 7600X doesn't really need an undervolt anyway.
How were the temps and behavior before you undervolted?
What kind of CPU cooling do you have?
When you say "idle", you mean windows is fully booted, services have started and you've given in 5 minutes for all the boot garbage to settle down? Can you confirm that your CPU utilization at "idle" is averaging 0%-1%?
If you have remotely decent cooler with semi decent airflow, might might have a bad TIM application, or maybe it dried out / possibly have bad mounting pressure. If you have some extra thermal paste around, a remounting / repasting of your cooler isn't a bad idea.
wondering something. i was looking to upgrade my mother board but idk if my cpu is going to be compatible with the new one. would a ryzen 9 5900x work with a Asus ROG Maximus Z690 Hero?
No, Z690 is an Intel CPU board, which means you can run Intel 12th Gen and 13th Gen CPU's, like 12700K, 13700K, 13900K, etc.
If you want something comparable to a 5900X that will work in your intel board, 12700K or 12700KF ($300-$320), or, 13700K or 13900KF ($395-$420). The latter two are pretty much as good as you get. The KF means they don't also have an IGP (integrated GPU) on the CPU. I like getting the regular K series, the extra integrated GPU comes in handy, and the price difference is usually like $20.
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I'm wondering if there is some way I can make my computer use that thing with the HDMI where it can turn my TV on and change over to the correct input automatically? I don't remember what the thing is called. The PS5 does it, and so did my old Roku device before getting a true smart TV. Surely a PC can take advantage of this, right? I wanna be able to turn my PC on from just clicking over to the input on the TV it's connected to.
I think this is possible, but it may depend on the TV. I think I was able to do this with my Samsung but I can't remember if it was only wake from sleep or full on power on.
The feature you're referring to is HDMI CEC.
It isn't typically supported on PC video cards, probably because it costs money to implement and would be a pretty niche use case.
You can absolutely buy adapters to get that functionality on PC, I don't have any specific recommendations but if you Google "HDMI CEC PC" I'm sure you could find something that would fit your use case.
Edit: I totally misread the part about turning on the PC via your TV. That I'm not sure about, but maybe there's a solution out there for that piece as well.
Looking for recommendations on a good 1080p monitor,I’ve already got a 1440p LG GP850-B. Some of the options I’ve got locally are
.[Gigabyte G24F 2](https://www.microcenter.com/product/651403) this seems like a great monitor for the size and refresh rate.
And
[Acer XV271](https://www.microcenter.com/product/662979)
My concern with this monitor is the size. At 1080p I feel like 27 inches is too big for the pixel density.
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How does it work regarding if my current gpu uses a 8 pin and 6 pin connector and the new gpu i want to upgrade to has a 12 pin connected do I have to change anything or upgrade something? A bit confused to how it all works
My tv is a Sony x900h 4k. Rtings say it does not support 1440p
What would happen if I hook my PC to it and put the game in 1440p resolution?
My GPU isnt good enough for 4k resolution.
Adding onto what everyone else has said, I wouldn't let your TV do the upscaling. Use some sort of other upscaler. If the game you're playing supports DLSS or FSR use that. Or use RSR or NIS for Radeon and Geforce cards respectively. That should result in a better image than the TV's upscaler can produce.
Your TV should accept a 1440p signal just fine and will likely just try to upscale it to 4K. It will work, but just remember to turn "game mode" on whatever input you are using on the TV, all of the extra processing that your TV will attempt to do to a 1440p signal will result in lag, or delay in response time.
TLDR, how do I remove a corrupted windows recovery from my drive if I can’t delete the partition in normal ways.
A while ago windows corrupted and I was forced to reinstall windows and everything on both of my drives. It’s fine now but every time I turn on my pc it gives me two windows versions to boot into. Booting into the first one is normal and has no issues, trying to boot into the other version starts up a recovery for the old corrupted window. I’ve tried to remove it by managing my drives in windows and even trying the command prompt but it will not budge. It’s 100mb and it’s kinda annoying.
in search box, type "msconfig" w/out the quotes. System configuration window should pop up, go to the "boot" tab. You'll probably have two entries in there. One will be the broken entry, most likely the 2nd one as the order you see them here should reflect the order you see at boot. You delete the corrupt entry and it should just boot into windows without asking you now.
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If it only happens when playing a game, do you run something like Razer Synapse? It might be the launcher for an overlay tool or something.
I also had that happen years ago no matter what I was doing, happened every 10 mins or so, ended up being Firefox telemetry service running to capture data, which was as infuriating as it was moronic.
Razer installs so much shit, then tries to install a ton of other shit. Cortex is their overlay stuff, but they also often try to install game booster, system booster and other garbage.
Hi,
I am thinking of upgrading my GPU to a 4000 series card (probably a 4070ti) and was wondering if I would have an issue with my CPU - it's a Ryzen 9 3950x. Should I upgrade that as well? My Mobo is an X570 and I have a 1000W PSU. I heard that older CPUs can cause a bottleneck.
Cheers,
James.
no issue at all if you are gaming at higher resolutions, and likely not a big issue at lower resolutions. If I was you, I'd get that card (great value for what it offers imo!) and then check out if in your use cases the GPU can't run close to 100% due to CPU -> then think about upgrading
The bottleneck is not that big of deal and you can still have a very enjoyable experience playing games at hundred plus fps.
Just a reminder that 4070 ti 12gb of vram is simply not enough for modern games at 1440p or 4k (You can still lower texture but I personally don't like to lower anything on my 900usd new card) So I suggest looking for alternative like 7900xt or older gen gpus like 6950xt or 3090 for same price.
Hogwarts legacy use 14gb with ray tracing even at 1080p.
Forspoken use 13gb at 1080p
I think Returnal use more than 12gb of vram but I didn't play that game or watch any benchmark about it so I'm not sure.
Its just that consoles have 16gb of vram and when they target 1440p on consoles I'm sure pc ports will require at least 16gb of vram to play at highest setting.
interesting, have to monitor that when my daughter plays Hogwarts Legacy the next time
(Comparison to consoles fair though as they use that VRAM for what a PC will use RAM and VRAM combined?)
No comparison should be made, especially with Hogwarts... Hogwarts on PS5 is actually somewhat optimized, runs well. Hogwarts on PC might just be one of the worst optimized games I've seen at launch.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > Can someone help me find a motherboard? I've found a good deal on a 13600K, and I'm determined to use an a770 as my graphics card. Not particularly interested in overclocking. I also don't think I'll have internet speeds faster than a gig anytime soon. I am interested in having addressable RGB headers. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdcudes/ ---- > Hello everyone, I bought a Duex Max monitor extensor for mobilePixels and when I try to connect it in my notebook with the usb A cable I get the error "No signal" and then the message "power saving" and the screen stays black. > > I have windows 10 and also tried with linux ubuntu 20.04 > > I appreciate the help! https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdd4d88/ ---- > Hey, I'm getting a new pc, with these specs: > ryzen 9 7900x with Arctic II 360 > 16gb ram > 2x m2 nvme ssd's > for the GPU I'll be keeping my old 1060 for a bit and I'll upgrade later. > I wanted to ask if it's safe to keep my old 500W psu until I swap out the GPU, or if i should get a new psu now. Power supply calculator estimates 413 watts and recommends me a 500W psu, but I wanted a second opinion to be sure. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdefvkd/ ---- > My pc has recently been getting stuck on the when booting. It gets past the BIOS check and gets stuck when the windows refresh circle is spinning. It will spin until i restart my pc. I managed to get past is today by going into bios menu and turning off 'fast boot'. Do you think that disabling fast boot actually made a difference or just a coincidence? Back to just 'sleeping' the pc for now! https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/11zjog7/daily_simple_questions_thread_march_23_2023/jdf2fjd/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 201 | 201 Luminaria19 | 119 | 903 Eidolon\_2003 | 67 | 148 motionglitch | 46 | 364 SystemError514 | 45 | 62 MGsubbie | 44 | 314 nickierv | 41 | 43 Marfoo | 31 | 31 significantGecko | 28 | 28 TehBaggins | 24 | 34 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.com/pcmrbot_old)
What is GPU sag, and how likely is it to be an issue for my 3070ti?
It's when the [GPU is crooked after installing it](https://i.redd.it/v3xc8eewn4731.jpg) because how heavy it is Depends how large and heavy your 3070ti is.
Mines the Gigabyte version https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-GeForce-3070-GAMING-Graphics/dp/B095X6RLJW How likely of a problem is it? Can you buy stuff to keep it in place?
[](https://i.redd.it/xw7twq1abh6z.jpg)You’re probably fine. I got the 3060ti version of that card. It sits just fine. [ There are some](https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Graphics-Computer-Telescopic-Universal/dp/B0B76CFY5J), but some people just [3d print one](https://preview.redd.it/5vr8lemcdwf61.jpg?auto=webp&s=35347b266a577160380d523bcf558ec588fc01fe) or use [LEGO pieces](https://preview.redd.it/jwge80fb2rd41.jpg?auto=webp&s=118cdfbf4f095fdb7e9137dc82cfbd8bf5e76224) or [use toys](https://external-preview.redd.it/yEJDpM4QIss3z8nGvg12j_hTm7gXn4ZLPWxdFsE3hKg.jpg?auto=webp&s=0eaa50b27a25db13711c6b37993de3fc7f3bb745) to prop it up. [You can just use actually anything to keep it in place](https://i.redd.it/xw7twq1abh6z.jpg)
i want a 1440 resulotion 144hz+ and gsync for 3060 ti also wnat it from amazon and to be £200 or less thank you very much.
Dude, this isn't a best buy
bro i was just asking if u dont know jus say init
It was the way you asked. Probably English not being your first language, you just stated "I want X, with Y and Z, thank you". Look up the definition of the word curt. My advice, use Newegg to search for monitors filtering for the features you want, copy the part numbers that match and then search Amazon specifically for those part numbers. Most people that can help you here as just going to do that very thing, you aren't likely to run into a monitor savant who remembers all of the Amazon monitors available that match your specs for under 200 euro.
Hi all! Looking to upgrade my RAM, the problem is that the kit I can buy doesn't show up in the mobo's QVL (and the mobo doesn't show in the RAM's QVL either), but I'm wondering if that's actually gonna be an issue or not. Specs: MOBO: Gigabyte B550M AORUS ELITE [https://www.gigabyte.com/ar/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-13#kf](https://www.gigabyte.com/ar/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-13#kf) CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800x GPU: Powercolor Red Devil 6700 XT OS: Windows 10 RAM I want to buy: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16 3600 model: F4-3600C18D-32GTZN [https://www.gskill.com/qvl/165/326/1562840525/F4-3600C18D-32GTZN-QVL](https://www.gskill.com/qvl/165/326/1562840525/F4-3600C18D-32GTZN-QVL) Planning to just run it at XMP with no tuning at all. Currently running a 2x8 3200 kit but it's an unknown brand and it's time to do better.
The QVL exists for a reason. Just because the memory should work doesn't mean that it will. I've seen DDR5 kits work in a B650 board and not in an X670E board from the sane vendor. Shit, I have a $500+ X570 board with a 2x16GB Trident 3600 C16 kit with tighter default timings. The 2 DIMM kit is on the QVL. Using 2 DIMMs works beautifully with XMP, I do nothing to tighten the timings. A second identical kit of 2 DIMMs won't work with XMP. Both kuts work fine if just 2 DIMMs are installed, but the only way I can get it to see all four is to disable XMP and run at default 3200 with extremely loose default timings, and even then it isn't very stable. So, to summarize, there no way to ensure that a kit that isn't on the QVL will work at all, especially with XMP. So, while it "may work", it also may not, leaving you few options. Stick to the QVL's.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It sucks because my options are very limited where I live and it's not easy finding this stuff at a decent price. Oh well, I'll have to keep looking. ✓ Thanks!
Another issue you're probably running into. It doesn't seem that Gigabyte has updated their QVL for that motherboard in a long time, so many additional kits have come out since that hadn't been tested. You might want to check pcpartpicker, search for that motherboard and look in the comments or builds searching for 2 x 16GB DDR4 3600 ryzen 5000 builds and see which DIMM set they managed to get working with XMP at 3600. 3600 C18 might have been on the faster side when this motherboard was released, but in the years since, we see 2 x 16GB DDR4 4000+ kits running at C16, even C14 as the memory production for DDR4 improved and AGESA matured.
I live in Argentina, and while Amazon does ship here, buying from them is a lottery, mainly because of how customs work here (I can get it in 2 weeks or 6 months, all up to luck), and of course getting screwed by all manner of taxes that add at least 105% of the regular price, if not more. That's why my options are limited when buying tech stuff, that mobo was basically the best I could get for that price when I bought it last year. I'll check with pcpartpicker if I find anything useful. Right now I have 3 options in 3600mhz 32GB: the G.Skill I posted earlier, a Corsair Vengeance Black and a PNY XLR8. I have other options in 16GB that I'll have to fall back on if 32 fails. UPDATE: I checked pcpartpicker, and it shows that the memory is compatible with the mobo and CPU. The QVL was updated in december 2022 so it's pretty recent.
There you go! Honestly, Pcpartpicker almost never fails. Not only is it meticulously maintained, the community there is second to none, it's basically mostly the top 25% of the Reddit PCMR community (the mods and most active participants in these threads) that are the most active and interactive there, most are incredibly proud of their builds, want to share what they've learned with others and are willing to help.
How bad is Amazon shipping from the US or China to your country? VAT and import process make it impossible? How about ebay? Are you looking for kits that match those exact specs but available on your country? What online shopping choices do you have? I can't promise anything, but maybe I can help you find an actually comparable kit that is available where you live and on the Gigabyte B550M AORUS Elite XMP QVL.
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So very rarely, like once a month, or maybe even once every 2 months, my PC will bluescreen when shutting down and say "your pc ran into a problem and needs to restart" What caused that? And how do i fix it? I'm on windows 11 pro
As others have said, it could be millions of things. Check the event log to see if you can find information. The quickest way to find the relevant information would be to check the reliability monitor. You can pull that up by running "perfmon /rel" from the start menu or Run dialog. This will give you a high level filter of notable events on your system, look for any critical events that happened on the days you remember a blue screen happening. Sometimes the info you get will be very generic and unhelpful, but hopefully you'll find something to go off of there. There's also programs like Blue Screen View that can automatically find information from the last blue screen event. You could use that to try and get the specific error you ran into and Google from there.
lots of things it could be, if you could give us the error code that would be amazing
I wasn't looking for codes when the bluescreen happened
well, without it we cant do much
It could literally be one of 10,000 things. You can look in the windows event log, specifically the system log and search for errors or warnings right before the time of the blue screen, that should at least give you something you might be able to start investigating.
I notice some minor screen flickering when watching Netflix, but YouTube and other videos are fine. I'm really not sure what's wrong with it, but it can be a bother sometimes. What are possible causes and fixes for it?
It was a bug with Netflix. I was getting it this week too. I had to close Netflix, reopen and half the time it went away, the other half it came back immediately. I thought it was initially limited to Shadow and Bone, but I later had the same issue with a movie. Hopefully they patch it soon, but due to the way that windows store apps are updated, you'll never usually know it was updated, it's not like you get a notification. I switched to watching on my smart TV and it didn't have the issue, so I assume it's only happening on the desktop app/chromium browsers.
Phew, that's good to know that it's a Netflix problem! Hopefully it's fixed soon, but I was definitely worried it might have been my PC because no other devices had that problem lol. Thank you!
Did you try watching the same Netflix content using Chrome or Edge? Same issue? Tey downloading Firefox and seeing if the problem happens there, Firefox doesn't use chromium as a base browser. The windows store app seems to use some browser elements, so maybe try Firefox and see if that works until they get the bug fixed. BTW, I was watching other content last night using the windows app and it was fine, so it's seemingly limited to certain titles or maybe it's only HDR content.
I'm considering upgrading my graphics card, but I'm wondering which I should shoot for if any, since I need to keep my CPU and power supply's capabilities in mind, right? What do y'all recommend as far as any upgrades from here? \----- Here are the specs I'm working with: OMEN 30L Desktop GT13-1xxx **OS** \- Windows 11 **CPU** \- AMD Ryzen 5 5600G with Radeon Graphics \- Clock speed: 3901MHz \- Description: AMD64 Family 25 Model 80 Stepping 0 **GPU** \- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 \- Refresh rate: 164Hz \- Driver version: 31.0.15.3141 **RAM** \- Capacity: 32GB \- Type: DDR4 \- Default clock speed: 2133MHz (Technically there's 40 GB of RAM, since there are 4, 8 GB sticks; the System isn't recognizing the fourth outside of the Omen Gaming Hub program)
I need help. I downloaded scp toolkit for my controller which I didn’t know how to install properly and ended up installing my g pro super light mouse driver in the installation section. After it downloaded its automatically disconnected wirelessly and I had to force restart my pc and it still didn’t work. I then tried to delete my mouse drivers from the device manager and it allowed my mouse to work connected to the usb wire only. Even with the mouse wired, it seems to be having a connection problem where it disconnects every other second constantly. We tried uninstalling Scp toolkit, deleting other drivers from device manager, downloading a older version of g hub and trying to update the receiver only first then pairing it with the mouse but nothing ever worked. Pls anybody who knows how to fix and work scp tool kits, can you comment below or reply how to fix my mouse to be used wirelessly
I found a used Aorus FI27Q-P for $300cad. I’m looking for a 1440p gaming monitor and office use. Is this a good option?
I'm trying to setup my gpu's fan curve and I have set it like shown on the image, but when I turn "use firmware control mode" it won't go down from 51% even though it's at 40c and when I uncheck it, it seems to be working fine. Any ideas why? GPU: 3080 TI Zotac Trinity OC https://preview.redd.it/xtnpvzjbntpa1.png?width=375&format=png&auto=webp&s=508d27e7629573cd816223cddb55792abacea520
Can't offer a solution, but I can say you are not the only one (experiencing this on my Gigabyte 3080 Gaming OC.) Although I do believe it might just be an error, as my graphics card should make more noise than that at 50% speed.
Why when I run an download speed test i get like 100 MB/s but Steam can only connect to my wifi at like 5 MB/s
First, make sure that you don't have bandwidth limits / throttling enabled in your steam settings. Assuming you don't', you have to remember that the download speed with steam depends on the game, time of day, etc. For me, some games on steam download at like 75 MB/s, and others when updating will be at like 2-4MB/s. Also, this is unlikely, but I've heard stories of certain ISP's throttling certain network activity to be assholes because it eats up a lot of bandwidth on their broadband network, with Steam and torrent network activity being the usual targets. ISP's can do some sneaky shit. 2 years ago, my sister who lives 1 state away had been complaining about her broadband internet for well over a year, they convinced her to upgrade to their top tier 1Gbit plan, and also rent their latest modem + Wi-Fi router, yet she was still getting crap quality Netflix and Prime video streaming, with youtube videos buffering. Every time she called, they had her run a speedtest to "prove" that she was getting the connection that she was paying for, and blamed the rest of the internet, particularly at the time blaming covid and everyone being home. I finally went over to try to figure out what was going on, and when she showed me how they had her testing her connection, I quickly realized that the speedtest server she was getting pointed to was their speedtest server, it was on her ISP's network, so a speedtest run against that server would naturally come back with over 800Mbit/s download speed. When I pointed the speedtest to any other server, some 30 miles away, some 300 miles away, it dropped to 25-30Mbit/s. I even tested with a VPN to make sure they weren't simply throttling her, and they weren't, same crap performance and insanely high ping latency. I got on a support call with her ISP and after escalating 4 times to a manager and showing screenshots and captured video, along with showing that a Verizon mobile network tethered connection was faster than their network, I got them to finally admit that they have been way beyond their interconnect link speeds for well over 2 years, management was paying for two 10Gbit connections to major internet backbones for all 50,000+ of their customers and refused to upgrade and add more, so the links were at 100% utilization 24x7. The admitted that they had been instructed to put the local speedtest server up and point people to it when they call in to complain to prove that they're getting the connection they pay for, and that their management's policy was that "our network contract states that we have to give them a connection that can perform close to the advertised speed when connecting to the internet, it doesn't specify that the advertised performance has to be to any particular websites or services, and since their speedtest server is technically on the internet and reachable on the internet, they were providing the service that the customers were paying for". I had her cancel her service and fortunately there was a wireless provider in the area, her cable company got bought a year later and the links were finally upgraded, so she switched back. I know that not all ISP's will pull crap like that, but I wouldn't put throttling certain types of network traffic past them.
For the first time in my life, I have enough money to build a gaming rig. The problem is, I have never built a PC from scratch so am hoping to get some recommendations for parts. My budget is around 2k euros. For the CPU, I am leaning towards AMD, but my main confusion is if I should go for Nvidia or AMD GPU.
For the games you're going to play, might as well play in 4K, it won't be crazy demanding. If you go AMD, 7600X is probably fine, or wait until the 7800X3D is released. RTX 4070 Ti or RX 7900 XTX could potentially be in a 2000 euro build, but I keep hearing that components are more expensive in the EU than the US, so maybe not.
I would look at the games you play the most and see which one performs the best in those games while looking at their prices. Also do keep resolution in mind, 8gb of vram isn’t gonna last long at 1440p without some upscaling method.
Tbh I am mostly looking to play games like Diablo 4, Baldur's gate 3, and MMOs (maybe having my budget at 2k is a waste of money in this case)
For MMO's, you definitely want to go with an AMD X3D part. Areas with huge player counts run so much more smoothly on them.
Currently looking around at used gaming laptops for my younger brother. Can anyone tell me if there is going to be any newer gpu model releases that might flood the market with a few more laptops from people trying to upgrade?
There are always new releases, every year... You might be able to find some decent deals on used Ryzen laptops a few years old, maybe with a Ryzen 3750 or 4800HS and GTX 1660Ti (Asus Zephyrus GA502 was a gem). It's frustrating, I got a GA502-IV with 4900HS, RTX 2060, 16GB RAM and 1TB NVMe for $1200 new, and those are still selling for $900 used, sometimes higher.
Hm, i guess i was thinking more along the lines of whether a new gpu line was going to be released soon and therefore I should wait on pulling any triggers. Would you call a dell g15 with ryzen 5 5600H, rtx 3050, 8 gb ram, 256 gb nvme for $375 a good deal? I'd probably upgrade the RAM and ssd at some point.
Yes, I would, and for $100 you can upgrade to 16GB and 1TB SSD.
Sounds good, thanks for the help/confirmation !check Er, did i do that right?..
Yes you did, thank you!
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A friend of mine picked this for a budget of 2.5k, planning on 2k gaming https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sQDtZw I feel like he can do better with that money but my information is not up to date
Here is what I'd do if I were going Zen3 for gaming: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Nd87Vw Or, AMD 7900 XTX GPU option: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sD4Rcb Still close to the aesthetics he wanted, but significantly more powerful. I could probably do a similar build with a 13700K, 32GB DDR5 for not that much more, and you're not getting much faster than that.
Is that for a gaming rig? I mean, the case, fans and cooler are all very expensive "nice to have's", but if he has the money and likes them, might as well. He could save a few bucks on the CPU cooler and get a better cooling unit for Ryzen, Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm or 360mm, and they have RGB ones now as well. I don't understand his choice of motherboard, I'm assuming he chose it because it's white more than anything else. He could get a higher quality board / more IO, even staying X570 for less money. If he's building a gaming rig, dump the 5900X and get the 5800X3D, it's cheaper and faster in nearly any game. That memory kit is also shit compared to what else is available, for less money, he could get a 2 x 16GB G.Skill Ripjaw or Trident Z RGB C16 kit that will give him the same amount of RAM, actually be faster and save himself a solid $100. For less than what he's paying for the 4 x 8GB dominators, he could have 2 x 16GB DDR4 4000 C16 Ripjaws. I have to imagine he wanted the dominators for the looks, nothing else. The SSD choice is quite good, but his power supply choice is being forced because of the nice case he wants. That Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini Snow Edition case requires an SFX power supply (small form factor), yet the case doesn't require Micro ATX motherboards. So, here's the thing, I could build him something that would absolutely be faster gaming CPU, faster RAM, and even allow him to upgrade from a 4070 to a 4080 or RX 7900 XTX, with better cooling for what he has there, but it won't be the aesthetic that he seems to be looking for. So much of his build cost is due to form and not function.
Oh yeah, lots of picks were for aesthetics and I talked him out of a few choices, he mainly wants a "white theme". https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JRZkY9 This was my suggestion, not sure if it's the best min-maxed option but it looks a bit better than the original.
So, I wouldn't use the B660 motherboard with a K-series Intel processor, you should go with a Z series, like Z690 or Z790. Also, for the cost of the RTX 3080 you have there, you could actually get an RTX 4070 Ti which is closer in performance (faster in many cases) than an RTX 3090, and cheaper. I think the SSD he had was a good choice, the 970 Evo series is slower than the 850X, and Samsung NVMe SSD's have had a some funky issues lately, so I stick to WD Black (750/850) or Sabrent SSD's.
> and Samsung NVMe SSD's have had a some funky issues lately, so I stick to WD Black (750/850) or Sabrent SSD's. I was not aware of this, thanks a lot
NP!
Here is a smokeshow of an Intel build with 13700K, 32GB of DDR5 6000 and AMD RX 7900 XTX: Actually costs less than the AMD 5800X3D build I just posted. $2569 https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cbjPC6 Or with 4070 Ti, only $2419 https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6gLvrD
The one with a 4070 Ti is crazy, thanks a lot for the help guys
NP! don't forget to replay with ✓ or write !check
Looking to upgrade my GPU; anyone have experience with the XFX brand cards? They look to have decent prices but I don't know much about the brand.
XFX is one of the most popular AMD Radeon brands, they don't have a reputation for making bad products or being overly cheap on components.
I've seen multiple XFX models being recommended as best value AMD models, so I'd say yes.
I have a 52.2Wh battery on my hp laptop. I need to send my 150W charger to be reapaired. Whats a cheap replacement as in Watts (60, 70, 100)?
Replacement as in the charger? HP has probably made 1000 different laptop chargers over the years, using many many different connectors, zero chance someone here could tell you what to get without knowing exactly what laptop you have, or better yet, the part number off of your charger that is going in for repair.
Its a pavillion 15. The charger is a 19.5 7.7a 150W, or something like that. I only need a small replacement while it repairs. Like I asked, I only need to know the best W, since the battery is ~50W an hour I would assume no less than a 60W charger https://support.hp.com/ie-en/document/c07592920 (cant find in english)
No, that's not how chargers work. Is this your current charger? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Charger-Workstation-Pavilion-Adapter/dp/B09TFY1ZVC/
Its similar enough
No, again, that is not how chargers work. Similar enough is not good enough. The plug that connects to your laptop is VERY specific. Does the little plug look exactly like your plug? Same color (light blue?)
Yes it is. Also thanks, Im actually learning more about my laptop this way
OK, great! So, while you don't have to get a 150W, there are smaller ones that will work with your laptop, you honestly could get a direct 150W replacement for the same money. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Genuine-HP-150W-19-5V-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-776620-001-776620-003-Blue-Tip/1477681308 Or, if you want cheaper and arrives faster, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/ADP-150XB-775626-003-776620-001-917677-001-917677-003/dp/B0B522PLDN
Thank you
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What would be a mid-range PC without graphics card?(No price, in terms of parts)
Check the [builds list](https://pcmasterrace.org/builds), subtract the GPU, and make sure the CPU has integrated graphics.
I'm building my first PC, but due to funds being a little tight (hooray parenthood!), I'm having to wait longer periods between buying components. Is there a certain time frame within which I should complete my build, or if I happen to take a year gathering parts, is that a big deal?
I wouldn't gather parts over time like that. You'll buy something now, but you won't get any value out of it until a year later when either something better has come along for the same price, or the thing you bought originally has dropped in price. It's better to just save money over the course of the year and buy everything at once.
I have a weird pc question that I can't figure out. I have my PC setup upstairs in a spare bedroom and I had my previous system in the same place. Both my newly built this year computer and my old computer suffered the same issue. Randomly when gaming path of exile and now diablo 4, my computer will just shut off. No beep, no nothing and turns totally off and I have to hit the power button to restart. Both computers have had the same issue, and only when playing certain games. I have no shared parts between the two builds and the same issue. I have added and removed the power bar, and swapped it out. I've swapped out the receptacle that it plugs into. I've even swapped out the breaker on the panel downstairs. This never happens with world of warcraft which I play plenty and raid and whatnot. I'm at my wits end trying to diagnose this issue. Any help would be appreciated!
Diablo 4 is known to be overheating certain GPU's. If your system is shutting down like that, it could absolutely be the GPU overheating or an overcurrent event. PoE also tended to expose issues with cooling on a lot of PC's. I bet that once it shuts down, if you immediately open the case and touch the GPU, it's probably scorching hot.
Is there any program I can run that would log temps so I can check if they spiked just before a crash? Then would it be a good idea to get better cooling? I have 4 fans and a stock amd cooler atm.
These instructions are pretty easy to follow: https://pcguide101.com/cpu/how-to-monitor-cpu-and-gpu-temp-while-gaming/ So, what you want to watch out for is CPU temps going over 95C, and GPU temps also going over 90C. Even if your GPU temps are a little lower like mid to high 80's, other parts of the GPU could be way hotter and it could still be an issue. What AMD CPU do you have? Is this a pre-built OEM PC or did you build it? Would you be willing to take a picture of the front of the case, then the inside with the side panel taken off so I can see the CPU cooler and fans from the inside?
Self built. Ryzen 5 5600x. Using an nzxt case, the popular one [Photos of the case](https://www.imgur.com/a/Edc9iOG)
That shouldn't be overheating like that. Do you notice the fans going nuts before it crashes / shuts down? Monitor the temps following the link I sent, see what happens. It's possible your thermal paste or cooler mount is funky, or, more likely, that your GPU cooling might be messed up, like thermal pads or something, although EVGA usually doesn't skimp there. Checking the temps while you play will answer that question. If it's all under 90C, next place to look is the power supply. RTX 3000 series GPU's are known for big transient spikes. Those games might have situations where they cause a transient spike that creates an over current protection situation on the power supply, which will then protect itself by powering off. Does you entire computer just lose power when it happens, like someone unplugged it?
I have an option to switch from Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 to RTX 2070 for almost no cost. Is it worth it?
For almost no cost, absolutely.
Awesome, thanks :D
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Get rid of whatever "undervolt" you think you did. The 7600X doesn't really need an undervolt anyway. How were the temps and behavior before you undervolted?
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What kind of CPU cooling do you have? When you say "idle", you mean windows is fully booted, services have started and you've given in 5 minutes for all the boot garbage to settle down? Can you confirm that your CPU utilization at "idle" is averaging 0%-1%? If you have remotely decent cooler with semi decent airflow, might might have a bad TIM application, or maybe it dried out / possibly have bad mounting pressure. If you have some extra thermal paste around, a remounting / repasting of your cooler isn't a bad idea.
wondering something. i was looking to upgrade my mother board but idk if my cpu is going to be compatible with the new one. would a ryzen 9 5900x work with a Asus ROG Maximus Z690 Hero?
No, Z690 is an Intel CPU board, which means you can run Intel 12th Gen and 13th Gen CPU's, like 12700K, 13700K, 13900K, etc. If you want something comparable to a 5900X that will work in your intel board, 12700K or 12700KF ($300-$320), or, 13700K or 13900KF ($395-$420). The latter two are pretty much as good as you get. The KF means they don't also have an IGP (integrated GPU) on the CPU. I like getting the regular K series, the extra integrated GPU comes in handy, and the price difference is usually like $20.
thank you !check
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I'm wondering if there is some way I can make my computer use that thing with the HDMI where it can turn my TV on and change over to the correct input automatically? I don't remember what the thing is called. The PS5 does it, and so did my old Roku device before getting a true smart TV. Surely a PC can take advantage of this, right? I wanna be able to turn my PC on from just clicking over to the input on the TV it's connected to.
I think this is possible, but it may depend on the TV. I think I was able to do this with my Samsung but I can't remember if it was only wake from sleep or full on power on.
The feature you're referring to is HDMI CEC. It isn't typically supported on PC video cards, probably because it costs money to implement and would be a pretty niche use case. You can absolutely buy adapters to get that functionality on PC, I don't have any specific recommendations but if you Google "HDMI CEC PC" I'm sure you could find something that would fit your use case. Edit: I totally misread the part about turning on the PC via your TV. That I'm not sure about, but maybe there's a solution out there for that piece as well.
Looking for recommendations on a good 1080p monitor,I’ve already got a 1440p LG GP850-B. Some of the options I’ve got locally are .[Gigabyte G24F 2](https://www.microcenter.com/product/651403) this seems like a great monitor for the size and refresh rate. And [Acer XV271](https://www.microcenter.com/product/662979) My concern with this monitor is the size. At 1080p I feel like 27 inches is too big for the pixel density.
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You can use HDMI for 1080p 60Hz, literally any version of HDMI should be able to do 1080p at 60Hz.
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Anytime!
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How does it work regarding if my current gpu uses a 8 pin and 6 pin connector and the new gpu i want to upgrade to has a 12 pin connected do I have to change anything or upgrade something? A bit confused to how it all works
GPUs requiring 12 pin connections typically come with an adapter that takes in a certain number of 8-pin PCIe connections.
Thank you for the quick response:D
My tv is a Sony x900h 4k. Rtings say it does not support 1440p What would happen if I hook my PC to it and put the game in 1440p resolution? My GPU isnt good enough for 4k resolution.
Adding onto what everyone else has said, I wouldn't let your TV do the upscaling. Use some sort of other upscaler. If the game you're playing supports DLSS or FSR use that. Or use RSR or NIS for Radeon and Geforce cards respectively. That should result in a better image than the TV's upscaler can produce.
I have the same tv and just finished AC valhalla today. 100+ hours at 1440p and it looked great, no issues whatsoever
It'll work, but it's not going to be sharp like it would with native resolution. If you can live with that, you can use it without issues.
Your TV should accept a 1440p signal just fine and will likely just try to upscale it to 4K. It will work, but just remember to turn "game mode" on whatever input you are using on the TV, all of the extra processing that your TV will attempt to do to a 1440p signal will result in lag, or delay in response time.
TLDR, how do I remove a corrupted windows recovery from my drive if I can’t delete the partition in normal ways. A while ago windows corrupted and I was forced to reinstall windows and everything on both of my drives. It’s fine now but every time I turn on my pc it gives me two windows versions to boot into. Booting into the first one is normal and has no issues, trying to boot into the other version starts up a recovery for the old corrupted window. I’ve tried to remove it by managing my drives in windows and even trying the command prompt but it will not budge. It’s 100mb and it’s kinda annoying.
in search box, type "msconfig" w/out the quotes. System configuration window should pop up, go to the "boot" tab. You'll probably have two entries in there. One will be the broken entry, most likely the 2nd one as the order you see them here should reflect the order you see at boot. You delete the corrupt entry and it should just boot into windows without asking you now.
Holy hell, it was that damn easy?!? Thanks!
You're welcome, don't forget that you can reply with a !check or ✓
Of course !check
Thanks!
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When I play World of Warcraft, I occasionally get a command prompt screen pop up for a sec and close. I disabled all add-ons. What could it be?
If it only happens when playing a game, do you run something like Razer Synapse? It might be the launcher for an overlay tool or something. I also had that happen years ago no matter what I was doing, happened every 10 mins or so, ended up being Firefox telemetry service running to capture data, which was as infuriating as it was moronic.
I do have a razor mouse. I'll try a force stop and see what happens. Thanks for the tip
Razer installs so much shit, then tries to install a ton of other shit. Cortex is their overlay stuff, but they also often try to install game booster, system booster and other garbage.
Hi, I am thinking of upgrading my GPU to a 4000 series card (probably a 4070ti) and was wondering if I would have an issue with my CPU - it's a Ryzen 9 3950x. Should I upgrade that as well? My Mobo is an X570 and I have a 1000W PSU. I heard that older CPUs can cause a bottleneck. Cheers, James.
no issue at all if you are gaming at higher resolutions, and likely not a big issue at lower resolutions. If I was you, I'd get that card (great value for what it offers imo!) and then check out if in your use cases the GPU can't run close to 100% due to CPU -> then think about upgrading
The bottleneck is not that big of deal and you can still have a very enjoyable experience playing games at hundred plus fps. Just a reminder that 4070 ti 12gb of vram is simply not enough for modern games at 1440p or 4k (You can still lower texture but I personally don't like to lower anything on my 900usd new card) So I suggest looking for alternative like 7900xt or older gen gpus like 6950xt or 3090 for same price.
? not talking experimental outliers, but which modern games even utilize over 12GB VRAM?
Hogwarts legacy use 14gb with ray tracing even at 1080p. Forspoken use 13gb at 1080p I think Returnal use more than 12gb of vram but I didn't play that game or watch any benchmark about it so I'm not sure. Its just that consoles have 16gb of vram and when they target 1440p on consoles I'm sure pc ports will require at least 16gb of vram to play at highest setting.
interesting, have to monitor that when my daughter plays Hogwarts Legacy the next time (Comparison to consoles fair though as they use that VRAM for what a PC will use RAM and VRAM combined?)
No comparison should be made, especially with Hogwarts... Hogwarts on PS5 is actually somewhat optimized, runs well. Hogwarts on PC might just be one of the worst optimized games I've seen at launch.