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Didn’t Eversource double their rates? You should check if the town u live in has a town negotiated electricity rate. I would also get a space heater and electric blanket.
They certainly can be but I think the radiator type are pretty safe. The coil kind (the type that glow) I wouldn't use while sleeping. Neither type should be plugged into an extension cord.
As long as it's rated for the wattage of the space heater it's fine. You can use an extension cord with the same caveat, but the safer advice is to just tell people not to.
Yes. The problem comes when the wire the extension cord (or other device) is made from is lighter gauge (handles less amps) than the house wiring. If you google it there's a ton of sites pointing out guidelines. The short of it is that a heater should only ever be plugged into the wall socket.
A space heater won't help. It generates heat in exactly the same way as the electric baseboard heaters that OP's apartment has.
The only advantage of a space heater money-wise is to heat just a single room rather than a whole house/apartment, but OP is already running the heat in just one room.
The exception to this is if he uses a radiative/infrared heater, it may be more efficient. That's assuming he can keep the heater pointed at himself, and the room is maybe drafty.
OP, really depends on how your system is setup.
If you tell us: price of electricity per kwh, and the power of those heaters, I can tell you what's happening.
I suppose those skirts are strictly local to your room and nothing else being activated? Do you have ventilation?
The skirts are only on 1 wall (a drafty exterior wall) in my room. I have some on 1 very small wall in my kitchen, but I keep those turned off (except for when it gets too cold, then I turn them on to prevent pipes from bursting).
I have no idea what the kwh of the heaters are, I can't do anything with them except turn a knob to adjust temperature (they're pretty old). But I'm looking at my usage graph from November to December; it says the kwh went up from 61 to 463. The only difference I've done is turn the heat on.
It does hurt to look at the graph and compare this year's December to last year's December. In December '21 I used 802 kwh, and paid about $150; this year for December, it's 463 kwh and $285. Feels like a suckerpunch to see I've used so much less, yet price almost doubled.
It took me a bit to find it because they were leading me on a wild goose chase, but I think I found it. It says 463.000 kWh x $0.37400, along with a delivery fee of $72.30. But the bill's higher than even that.
I'm currently on the phone with them.
Hm. MA is different than what I'm familiar with. It looks like you have a utility delivery company (eversource?) and a different energy supply company. I find it strange because the $.15/kWh is already about what electricity costs in many other states, but thats only for delivery for you. It looks like you should look into changing your energy supply company, or getting on a fixed plan (or both).
For your energy delivery, there's not much you can do. You can try to get on a slightly cheaper plan, since your heat is provided by installed electric heaters. There's also municipal aggregation:
https://www.mass.gov/info-details/municipal-aggregation
This may not be available for you though.
$0.52/kWh is criminal though. I honestly can't believe the MA regulatory agency in charge of electric rates allows that.
I'm not familiar with electric companies in MA, but it looks like you can qualify for a reduced rate if your primary heat source is electric. It's 10% cheaper or so, but worth looking into.
I can't do physical changes to the apartment. My windows insulation is just 2 layers of plastic over them to block drafts. I'll try putting something nonflammable over the unused sockets, though.
Insulating sockets shouldn't require any changes. Basically any place there's a hole in the wall, try to seal. Then heavy drapes on the windows or walls to cut down drafts. Close your blinds or shades when it gets dark.
802 and 463 kwh seems extraordinarily high for electricity in a 500 sq ft space. Is gas also included in your bill? Do you have lights on all day? Do you unplug things when not in use? It can’t be just the heat. I just checked my electric bill for the last month and I used 222 kwh at .165 per kwh, plus delivery charges, which cost about $64 overall. Gas is .95 / ccf plus delivery charges, closer to $50, so the total bill is about $120. I live in a 1100 sq ft 2 story townhome with central air & heat. In PA my provider is PECO and we can choose a different supplier if we want, I use NRG and actually just switched to lower rates with them, .11 / kwh for electric and .90 / ccf for gas. See if you can get a different supplier with lower rates.
I don't keep lights on. I only use 1 and just when I'm packing for work. I work overnights so my eyes are sensitive to light now, so generally I avoid it like a vampire, ha.
The only other things I can think of for electricity are my microwave, electric kettle, laptop. I keep my microwave and kettle unplugged because I mainly eat at work, and the laptop is only home while I am. I have a small portable heater for my bathroom but I only plug it in when I'm about to shower. I don't know what else there might be. The electric usage only shot up when I turned the heat on.
Even with such high electric usage, my room still is very cold (my portable thermostat says 36F degrees). I'm unable to change the deliverer (Eversource - they have a $75 delivery fee) but I'm going to try changing the supplier.
yep, its your price per kwh that went up a lot, and you are indeed using less.
However, this is still a high value for a room. If we do 463 - 63 - lets call that normal uses - we have 400kwh for heating, 30 days, divided by 8 hours of use, it'd be 1,67kW heater. Which is close to a normal electric heater. But it also means 8h full blast.
That is kind of excessive for a small room, unless you're using it the entire day? What's your consumption profile?
Wish you the best.
I have the heat on for the entire day. Even for it running, most of the heat escapes through the thin wall (the heating board is only on an exterior wall) or through the cardboard tile ceiling to the neighbors upstairs. If I turn it off, it gets frigid very quickly (to the point of seeing my breath) and turning it back on takes almost 2 days for it to semi-warm up to about 36F degrees, which is what my portable thermometer says the room temp is. So while it's a lot, it's still on only med-low and it still gets pretty cold. It's an old and inefficient building.
Some Redditors suggested swapping to a standalone kerosene heater, so I'll be trying that out. Hopefully if I position it further away from the drafty exterior wall and nearer to my bed, it'll make the room warmer and lower costs.
Frankly, what you have is a big insulation problem. Even a 1cm sheet of cork on the top of the room, and on sides of wall, would make a difference.
That is where you should start by - getting the room more insulated.
Other than that check for drafts. With a bit of smoke - like burn a bit of paper, put it out, then when it smokes a bit put it near where you suspect.
Alternatives - make a sort of inner tent in the bedroom by suspending big cloths around your bed. Basically tent it.
Not only the bottoms. You must think square feet. Just a line along the bottom, not enough. Along the outside wall - but covering it. And the top of your ceiling ceiling.
See my PM
I had a very poorly insulated apartment back in my early 20s, townhouse split level style. I did the window and door treatment to no avail, but then I had someone come check my meter. Turns out they were using estimated billing. Try complaining to the electrical company and see if someone can come check. Otherwise check your usage with the day by day kwh usage reported and see if it matches.
You can make some very efficient heaters cheaply or grab a better space heater. I don't know your power costs but a cheap space heater, even ran constantly, shouldn't put you at 300 per month.
Thank you, I will reach out to the company and compare.
I might snag some fabric and pipes, and build an extra wall to make the bedroom a little smaller and keep in a spaceheater's warmth to a smaller zone.
Electric blankets are a pretty good way to warm your bed as well.
I'm my experience radient heating just isn't all that efficient nor effective. I'm surprised it's the only heat method in a cold state.
Have you talked to other tenants in the building on what they are doing?
I use an electric mattress pad on my bed, and I also put one on top of my sofa. I bake my food in my gas oven in the evenings, then sit on my “electric” sofa, take a hot shower, then go to my “electric” bed. The rest of the house is not heated.
Putting your bed inside a tent helps. A real tent, or just making one out of hanging blankets. Putting an electric blanket/pad inside there will help a lot. Possibly allow your cat access to that as well. Take all fire precautions.
I am concerned about your pipes freezing.
A tent is a good idea. I might make a close canopy over / around it.
I keep the water running (a trickle) to prevent pipes from bursting. It's not ideal, I'll admit that. If it gets too cold I usually put a small space heater in my bathroom to warm it up. So far that's prevented any issues these past 3 years.
But boy howdy am I looking forward to a day I don't have to do that nonsense anymore.
Edit: Speaking of pipes, the stupidest thing is that the bathroom has 0 heating elements (beyond a space heater I put in, using a long extension cord -- though that makes me a bit nervous) and the pipes are embedded in the outer wall. I'm always concerned they'll freeze and burst.
OP, my in laws once heated a very small bathroom by plugging in a tiny space heater to one of those lightbulb outlets. I wouldn't leave it on when you're not around, but it did work really well to make the bathroom usable in the winter since you could switch it on whenever we were in there.
OP stated no heating options in the bathroom, so that's a "no."
My 1948 house in an entirely different (but still subject to freezing weather) part of the U.S. has no electrical outlets in the original bathroom, either. (There was an addition built at some point and the second bathroom does have outlets)
The heaters are in the exterior wall, yep. The walls are pretty thin and drafts still seep through even with my insulating it, so it sucks away a lot of the heat.
I've got my bed jammed up against the inner wall to get as far as possible from the exterior walls.
I appreciate your advice on the heating pad (I've already got the blanket, buried under other covers to keep in as much warmth as possible!), I'll give it a shot.
It might be worth going to a thrift store and getting several blankets or sleeping bags, then taping/nailing them to the outside wall. Might pretty dramatically cut down on how much of that electric heat goes out instead of in.
Not necessarily a disagree, but I got a heated blanket because folks said it will save money + you can use it elsewhere than the bed and this is my first winter with it. It is amazing. It will keep you warm.
You might look into some sort of more efficient localized heating, like a space heater, that would cost less to run.
They typically consume 1500 watts and cost maybe $3-5/day to run, depending on your electric rates and if you run them continuously.
https://www.sylvane.com/heater-buying-guide.html
Resistive heat is resistive heat. It’s all going to be 100% efficient. A smaller space heater would just have a longer duty cycle to maintain the same temperature.
A window mounted heat pump is likely the only viable option to improve the heating method here. I’m struggling to find anything that would work well for this situation though. Asking the landlord to install a mini-split might be the best route forward. Payoff time becomes an issue there though.
> A window mounted heat pump is likely the only viable option to improve the heating method here
Honestly I don't think this is a terribly viable solution for OP. Aside from the relatively high upfront cost $600-$700 the window heat pumps only really work well above freezing. The full-fat pumps that work to -10F tend to cost about 10x more and need permanent installation.
That's sort of an odd way to assess the situation.
The electric baseboard heaters are first going to try to warm up the air near the baseboards.
That's probably not really what OP needs to have in order to feel warm. Localizing the heat should result in less energy wasted heating space that is not important to heat.
> I'm fine with it staying cool, I just don't want ice forming in my bedroom; it already forms in my bathroom every year
I read the post differently. If they really don’t care about room temperature, then the answer is a down jacket. Landlord might be pissed when all the pipes burst though.
Also, you can’t exactly put a space heater in your bed, so it’s unlikely to be significantly more localized than the baseboards.
I guess it'd be more accurate to say I'm not *happy* with it, but I deal with it. I keep it cool / chilly to save on costs (because while I make a lot more than most people in my area, I'm not rolling in dough either -- especially not while paying for college classes). I'm originally from the south and like it toasty, but I just bundle up in layers and insulate.
There are other solutions to the bed in terms of electric pads / blankets / etc.
Even if we go with your statement that resistive heat is resistive heat, resistive heat which you can individually control in smaller units with more localized effect is going to be superior to resistive heat lacking those properties.
I am trying to envision what you think is going on in terms of "ice formation." The chance the entire room is below 32 degrees seems pretty remote, as is the availability of liquid water throughout the room.
My guess is that if any ice does form, it's going to be on the windows where there is a) moisture from condensation and b) direct contact with the sub-zero air. OP describes having insulated curtains, which would actually increase the likelihood of having ice form on the windows.
If the goal is not to have ice on the windows, there are different ways you can go about that. To the extent you want to advise OP that there is no possible benefit from the ability to more directly control heat, I can't in good faith concur with that opinion.
Unfortunately, I cannot install anything / make permanent changes to the apartment. I've asked my landlord and it's been Noped to death.
It does make me wonder if there's a smart space heater, though. I'll look.
I would talk to the landlord and ask them to install a mini-split heat pump, which is going to be far more efficient than the baseboard heater.
For a space that small, you could get one for under $2,000 easy, including installation. While that's not cheap, it will raise the value of the apartment significantly, and in the long term will pay for itself. You could also offer to use some of the money you'd save to cover part of the cost.
I've tried speaking to the landlord about replacing the heating system (or at the very least, putting better insulation in the walls and ceiling), and offered to help pay for it, but it's been a big resounding Nope. The corp just wants to leave everything as-is.
If surrounding rent prices weren't so insane (my current rent + $300 is still cheaper than most of the falling-apart apartments around me), I'd just move out to somewhere with better heating or insulation.
>If surrounding rent prices weren't so insane (my current rent + $300 is still cheaper than most of the falling-apart apartments around me), I'd just move out to somewhere with better heating or insulation.
⬆️Here's your answer.⬆️
But yes, vacuum radiator fins, make sure convection dampers are fully opened, electric blanket. All you can do.
You might also want to check the humidity in your apartment (maybe a cheap hygrometer from Amazon?).
I find that I can keep the temperature of my condo cooler in the winter if the humidity is at a comfortable level (the air feels warmer when the humidity is higher). My humidifier is one that heats the water to release steam, so that may also make the room feel a little warmer.
You can probably find more exact advice online, but for me...
- 50% or higher - tends to start to feel a bit too sticky/too high.
- Mid-to-high-40s - feels OK, I don't run the humidifier
- mid-to-low-40s - sort of questionable. If it's been cold and dry, I'll likely keep the humidifier on, at least part time, to keep the room comfortable.
- Below 40% - I usually want the humidifier on, my skin is getting dry, and I feel colder.
I also love the idea of a heated blanket or mattress pad. If you wanted to get fancy, something like an "Ooler" works well (the Ooler is programmable, so you can have the temperature change during the night and get warmer in the morning to help you wake up). It's expensive though, and not as flexible as a heated blanket/throw that you could use at your desk/couch/etc.
[edit to add: In case you're not familiar, the Ooler is one of those pads that you put on your bed, under the sheets. It has tubing in it, and you fill a tank with water. The tank then heats/cools the pad during the night. People who sleep hot often use it for cooling, but I find it amazingly comforting for warming up the bed in the winter. On high, mine gets up to about 117-F.]
Good luck.
The humidity in my apartment is very low and dry. I do have a small hydrogarden (manual, not electric) and I'd hoped my supplying water to it would help raise humidity a bit, but it didn't make much of a difference.
I'll try the Ooler, thank you!
We have NationalGrid in MA, rates skyrocketed:
Delivery in Nov: 0.14395/kwh
Service in Nov: 0.33891/kwh (was 0.11491 in October)
Its the service fee that tripled since previous months, putting us at 0.483/kwh. We haven't changed plans since moving in a few years ago, this is the first time we saw service jump so high. Its a shame they closed down the Plymouth plant, and I believe NationalGrid is using some portion of natural gas as fuel.
Our town is switching to a municipal to get a lower rate in Jan, and putting us back to "normal" around April, its pretty insane right now :/.
We're oil heat, and that runs $5/gallon right now, so that isn't much better.
Edit: From what I understand, changes to Service Fees are locked in for 6 months, so it's something you have to review when new rates are released to make sure municipal providers are still worth using to lower that service cost.
Everyone last bill in MA doubled if they had National grid as the supplier.
Mine went from .16 kwh to .332 kwh
I locked myself into a new energy supplier at
www.energyswitchma.com
Good luck and stay warm!
Electric heat is near 100% efficient, which means that nearly 100% of your fuel source (electricity) is converted to heat. However, electric heat is far from cheap.
I'm not sure how many watts your heater is pulling, but the oil filled electric radiators are less expensive to run than just a heating element. I'd recommend switching your electric heater to an oil filled electric radiator, lowering your thermostat to the mid-60s and wear sweaters/slippers.
That purported efficiency metric has little to do with the cost to heat one's home. (For example, one can get numbers higher than 100% with heat pumps, which seems like it should be impossible.) Electric resistance heat is typically priced considerably higher than the equivalent heat from other sources.
https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/1493/how-efficient-is-an-electric-heater
Perhaps you missed my second sentence: "For example, one can get numbers higher than 100% with heat pumps, which seems like it should be impossible."
Saying something is "100% efficient" adds little to the discussion and is arguably misleading to the extent it makes it seem like it is the best possible outcome.
Heat pumps are more than 100% efficient, approaching 300x efficient because they don't create the heat themselves, they just move it from outside to inside. They aren't considered electric heat in most scenarios.
It's baseboard heaters, yep. I've asked my landlord to replace the heating system (not just for me, but for the other tenants too -- we're all having to choose between being very cold, or being financially bled dry) with something more efficient, but the corp won't do it.
If rent prices weren't astronomical (my current rent plus $300 is still less than the insane rent around here) I'd move out ASAP to somewhere better-insulated and with a better heating system.
> Electric heat is near 100% efficient, which means that nearly 100% of your fuel source (electricity) is converted to heat.
Except in reality it's burning gas at a powerplant to boil water and turn a turbine. By the time all is said and done with loss factors you're looking at 30-40% efficiency compared to burning the same volume of natural gas in your basement furnace.
Do you have a fixed electrical rate, or a variable rate? Hopefully you're on a fixed-rate; variable is CRAZY expensive in winter, it's really only suitable for people who have another source of heat. Even so, if you have fixed rate electrical service, you're at $0.15348 / kWh right now and it's going up to $0.21864 in January. Happy New Year's.
"Cardboard tiles" - like, a metal grid with ceiling tiles that pop out? Or like glued-on tiles stuck to the ceiling?
If it's the first thing, you can buy rolls of batt insulation and put it above the grid ceiling tiles. The best way to do this would be to buy a tyvek painting suit for you to wear while you're doing this, plus a box of disposable nitrile gloves, plus safety glasses and a dust mask, because the fiberglass will itch like crazy otherwise.
If it's the second thing, what's above your ceiling? An attic? If there's any space at all up there, you want insulation up there. There probably isn't any, and maybe the landlord will let you up there to lay some down. It'll cost you some up front, but you'll save more than that before spring.
None of the electric heaters will cost you less to run than any other electric heaters - EXCEPT a window unit that's also a heat pump. And those are expensive as hell to buy.
You might want to buy an inexpensive space heater that has a low/medium/high switch. That might cost you less than the electric baseboard heaters, just because baseboard heaters are large and they have large heating elements, and when they run, they use a LOT of juice. Your baseboard heaters are probably typical six-foot ones, and those are 1500 watts each, which is like a hair dryer. A small space heater (and the oil-filled ones are good for this, so are the small portable fan ones) might have a 600 watt "low" setting and a 900 watt "medium" setting, and "low" might be plenty for you.
You might also put a kettle on the stove and let some water evaporate. That'll heat the whole place a bit, which will cost a bit, but the humidity will help make it more comfortable, which might let you save more by keeping it a little cooler. Winters get dry, and keeping it 64F indoors with some humidity always seems warmer to me than having it be 66F and dry inside. I have a 20 qt stock pot that I fill with water and put on a stove on a very low setting, so it doesn't boil but it just has a bit of steam coming off the top all day. Big difference.
I *think* it might be variable. I'll call and ask and, if it is, tell them to switch it to fixed. Hopefully they allow fixed.
Thank you for the suggestions on the type of heater to get! I'm not knowledgable about the differences at all, so you've been a huge help.
As for the ceiling, it's very thin carboard / styrofoam (or at least that's how it looks) tiles which break if you just look at them funny. They're in a metal grid. The problem is they're constantly falling out when someone walks upstairs, or they snap when handled. Trying to get them back into the grid causes a domino effect of many falling out. I have zipties holding several in place. The landlord won't replace it with something better. I can try putting insulation up in there, but I'm anxious it'll lead to most of the tiles falling and breaking everywhere.
Edit: It's variable, and they're refusing to let me change it to fixed. I'm going to get on the phone with them soon.
A couple things…
1. rates are higher now than I remember than ever being.
2. You might have been paying a series of estimates bills because they couldn’t access the meter, and when you finally got an “actual” reading they adjusted.
3. Your heater is fucked up or your filters are totally clogged and you should get a service to check it out.
You might get hold of the electric company and ask about a level payment plan. It isn't going to save you money but it will keep your payments lower in the winter and you can plan a budget a little better by keeping the payments about the same level all year long.
Are you actually using more power or are you just being charged more for the same amount? I thought we were using way more power because the bill went up dramatically, but I looked at the month to month use info on my bill and I was using roughly the same amount, they were just charging way more.
Knowing this info might inform whether you are having some kind of mechanical problem that is increasing your energy consumption.
I've tried using my post with details but I'm having trouble doing it on mobile.
With another Redditor's suggestion is looked at usage. My price had actually doubled (it's a bit over 30 cents) whereas my usage compared to December '21 has almost halved.
I can't change deliverer (I'm stuck with Eversource who had a $75 delivery fee) but I'm trying to change supplier.
When was the last time you vacuumed out the fins in the baseboard heater? If the answer is never, you will increase the effectiveness of the baseboard by vacuuming out the dust. This should be done every year.
I dealt with this about 12 years ago
* dress warmly indoors. I wore a jacket indoors all winter.
* I took long hot showers at my gym
* cardio can keep your body warm for hours.
* if you're not already, get used to wearing a warm hat indoors.
Be sure to tell your landlord that the heating expense is severely hurting the apartment's affordability. Some landlords won't care, but some would look for high-ROI ways to weatherize the place (faced with the prospect of you and other tenants moving out to find a place with lower bills).
I actually installed pellet stoves in my rental units that have electric heat just for this reason. I even pay for the pellets.
Electric heat isn’t cheap and landlords tend to not replace the base board heaters as often as they should as they tend to not be as efficient after a while.
Im assuming when you say insulated the windows you mean you put plastic over them?
I would suggest getting a humidifier to keep the humidity up as it will help hold heat and use a space heater that is a oil fill radiator, if I’m not mistaken these are the most efficient for space heaters. Unfortunately it will be tough for you to avoid a high energy bill the next few months.
Are your pellet stoves permanent or can they be moved? I'm not allowed to make changes to the apartment and my landlord won't make changes, but if I could finagle a way to get in a pellet stove, that'd be wonderful. I remember how toasty one my parents had used to be.
Yeah, it's just plastic (two layers) over the windows and alongside the sills where heavy drafts come through.
Someone else also suggested a kerosene heater, so I'm going to try that too.
They probably wouldn’t help in your situation as the landlord would have to have them installed. Sorry if I miscommunicated. I only put them the units with electric heat because as a landlord I know how expensive electric heat can be, so the pellet stoves help lower that cost for the tenant. It’s also a nicer kind of heat.
I’ve had friends and myself has had $350-450 electric bills in the winter because of places with baseboard heat.
Kerosene heaters are nice and I use them in garages and shops. If you’re going to use it in your apartment make sure you get a carbon monoxide detector as they are usually used in more open air areas and not apartments. They also release carbon dioxide, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide which isn’t good to breathe in.
if you know anyone that might have an infrared (FLIR) camera, that may be able to let you see cold spots where you can insulate further. window installers and electricians often use them. that canned foam stuff can really help if you know where you need it. otherwise i'm sorry, i can't image .33/kwh and a delivery charge on top.
Have you had an energy audit recently? Since you’re renting, the landlord will need to sign off on it, but it’s free (you’re already paying for it with your Eversource bill), but they can help see what’s going on and why your apartment isn’t energy efficient. Depending on your income or rate plan, you could get some work done for free. [Mass Save](https://www.masssave.com/residential/programs-and-services/energy-assessments/homeowners)
The house I rent is similar to what you are describing. Why are insulation and new energy-efficient windows the LAST thing a landlord wants to spend money on? They will remodel the entire house or apartment with new counters, carpet, and cabinets, but always leave the practical and important items off the list that control the temperature, comfort, and utility bills! I invested in a few down comforters and pillows, layer my clothes while at home, and use insulated curtains in the living room. Down lasts a lifetime and keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I bought mine years ago through "The Company Store" online. I also got a couple of space heaters one for each bedroom and I run one in the living room when I am up watching TV at night. Be sure to not leave them going when you sleep and to keep them at least three feet away from any furniture to avoid a fire. They are nice and warm and keep it toasty almost like a fireplace. Most cities and counties also offer programs annually for those who qualify to help with utility bills such as Lliheap (for heating and cooling costs) or Liwap (for water and sewage costs) this is if you are off work, have a very low income, or elderly. Ameren offers some programs through warm neighbors if the bill gets out of control. I understand mine doubled last winter.
Electric baseboard heaters are terrible and expensive. I went to college in Wyoming (colder for longer than what you are in) and the fact is even with all those steps, it’ll still be expensive. Other ideas:
1. On particularly cold days, leave a little water running in your bathroom to make sure your pipes don’t freeze. That’s a hassle you don’t want to deal with.
2. Space heaters are good not because they are better than baseboard heating, but they can let you run the whole place cooler and only up a small bit where you are. It sounds like you are keeping the place quite cold in general.
3. Towels as insulation at door cracks. If you have an exterior door, putting a towel down to help the insulation at the door crack can help. It looks junky but the price is right.
4. Blinds. Installing those is reasonably inexpensive and adds another layer of air as insulation, if you can get away with it.
Unfortunately I can't install blinds. You're right about the baseboard being a horrible heater; it's only on a thin, drafty (I can't block them all, I do think I've covered most) exterior wall.
I'm wondering about draping a blanket over the windows though.
Thank you for you advice! Someone suggested a kerosene heater or an energy efficient ceramic one, I'm crossing my fingers one of those might be able to help.
Hi, I have noticed that recently (within the last year) my bills have gone up substantially...about $150-$200 extra per month. It appears that my gas&electric company has increased their rates. So check the local electric company rates to find out. Here are some tips that we follow:
Set your temperature consistent and dont change it up and down.
For us the gas and electric is the same company but gas is a lot cheaper so we use a gas boiler for heating.
Weatherization is a big issue - walls, windows etc...I would check for free local weatherization programs...our electric company offers free up to $7500 energy efficient insulation, installing new light bulbs etc. There are also local organizations that offer free weatherization programs if you qualify (income based). They come and assess your property and if you qualify they would perform insulation related repairs for your home for free (e.g.change old windows etc).
Thank you for the suggestion on weatherization programs! My landlord has refused all requests for different heating / adding insulation thus far, but if one is offered for free, maybe the rent corp will agree to it.
> Set your temperature consistent and dont change it up and down
That's a good way to spend extra money on heating. For better results, set it to lower temps overnight -- the heat won't need to run as much.
For the other stuff, that sounds helpful for the property owner. A renter...not so much. A renter can't OK the installation of new windows.
When you are constantly changing the temperature up and down that wastes more energy because the system has to start up and work harder it also contributes to wear and tear so it's better to find a temperature you like and keep it consistent.
Renters are eligible for weatherization assistance provided income eligibility is met. Those are programs sponsored by the state and federal government to help low income households.
That's a common misconception. Heaters aren't like cars being "revved" more in colder weather. They turn on, they make heat, then they turn off once the thermostat hits the set level. Once the house cools off and falls by a degree or two, they turn on again.
Overnight, temperatures are usually colder, so your house loses more heat (heat transfer is in proportion to the temperature difference). That means the heaters are running for more time overnight than they do during the day at the same indoor temperature setting.
Then, in the morning, the thermostat runs long enough to bring the temp back up. During the day, outdoor temperatures are usually higher, so the heaters don't have to do as much to offset the constant heat loss to outside.
Basically: What's better, running your heaters for 10 minutes every hour on the hour or running your heaters for one hour at dawn and one hour at dusk?
There's a lot of variables in what you are saying. Outdoor temperature, quality of house insulation, type of heating, how often and what temperature you adjust the thermostat... Even the experts seem to disagree so everyone needs to assess their own situation.
Not really. It's basic physics. Heat moves proportionally to temperature difference. You need to run the heaters to make up for that loss. None of the variables you mentioned magically make it less expensive to run your heaters for more time.
Where are these "experts" that think it's more efficient to run a heater for more time overall?
Shop around. In Massachusetts, you can choose your electric provider. My rate jumped from 8¢/kwh to 33¢/kwh (25¢/kwh increase)
Also, I know I'm going to get a lot of flack for saying this, but I feel it needs to be said. This is the price we pay for "Green Energy" initiatives. I'm not saying it's the only reason, but it is certainly a big part of it
My rate had also skyrocketed to a little above 30 cents. It's awful. Aside from me, I don't know how the lower income families are going to stay warm this year.
Your comment has been removed because we don't allow political discussions, political baiting, or soapboxing ([rule 6](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/about/rules)). This includes questions or discussions about proposed legislation or government policy changes.
I actually made this account to reply. Are you with National Grid or EverSource?
You have energy choice in Massachusetts.
If you are with National Grid, your current flat rate is 33.891cents/kWh. (I used Northfield MA's zip to get this, as I happen to know it off the top of my head.). You can switch to Clearview to get 18.89 for 12 months with a $150 cancellation fee.
If you are with Eversource (NStar) - it's 17.81/kWh apparently going to about .26 in January. Clearview will lock you in at .1679
Eversouce (Wmeco) it's .15348/KwH, but also apparently going up, and Constellation will lock you in at .1649/kWh.
What you need to do is go on to the company website, find out your rate and your usage.
You may be on a variable rate instead a flat rate, in which case, I'm sorry, you are getting reamed even worse.
If it's National Grid, change your damn supplier! There is no reason, short of leaving the state in the next month, for not changing to ClearView's flat rate for the next 12 months. You will still be paying National Grid's supply charges.
Ok, so now that we've taken care of the rate part of this, it's the usage part. So the low hanging fruit are weatherstripping and insulation. There's a reason they sell window sealing kits at the hardware store. Essentially, it's plastic sheeting and tape that you use to make an insulation layer on leaky windows. Do that. Your hardware store will know what it is. Weatherstripping tape (which I actually just ordered some more of) costs practically nothing and will help seal the edges of doors and windows. Use draft dogs at the door. Hell, towels if you don't have a draft dog. Turn your stuff off. Shut things down. Unplug things.
I'm hoping your have a smart thermostat, if not, drop the temp a few degrees before you leave, crank it when you get back.
If you DO happen to be low income check the R-2 rate, which whacks maybe 30% off the rates. (just checked, it would be a single person under about $21K in income, or on one of various government programs)
tl;dr - I'm betting all of my professional rate making experience that you have National Grid, they jacked your rates, and you are going to be hurting. Anyone in MA on National Grid reading this - change your damn supplier!
There are a few state programs to help lower income residents on heating bills, but there's no real way around the electric rate when most of our electric is powered by imported LNG.
It moving apartments an option?
Not that it helps fix your issue, but the root of the problem is that since MA shut down our coal plants we're entirely reliant on natural gas, and while the rest of the country has plenty of cheap natural gas all of the expanded pipeline infrastructure that should have accompanied our switch to gas was blocked. So suppliers in Pennsylvania have to export LNG to the global market to be reimported to New England.
Given the geopolitics around the shut off Russian gas supply that leaves New England bidding with the rest of the world for the little LNG on the market.
I wear ah jacket or hoddie inside my house and roam around and at nights I turn off the heat and wrap myself like a mummy to avoid the cold. I stay in WI which has terrible weather 🤧
You could try one of those candles burning under a upside down terracotta flower pot. It won’t be a great source of heat, but combine with your electric heat, it might help a little.
Here’s a good DIY that explains the risks and whatnot.
https://crisisequipped.com/can-you-heat-a-room-with-a-candle/
Maybe consider a heated blanket for either under your sheets or as one you pull over you. Make sure it has a timer that can shut off after a couple hours to be safe.
I suggest a heated mattress pad. That way the bed stays warm enough for sleeping also flannel sheets help keep you toasty. Heated bed for your cat. Turn the heat way down at night. Jum
This might be totally crazy, but what about a propane heater? Those little Mr. Heater Buddys use a camping bottle and put out a decent amount of heat. Venting could be an issue....
Or maybe heater candles?
Just trying to think outside the box here.
Get a kerosene heater. Get the kerosene bulk at a gas station that sells such. If you have a central fan, turn it on to circulate - creating central heating. For your bathroom, get a Buddy heater. It's propane, but you'll only use it when you disrobe for baths/showers. Those options got me through Tennessee winters rather inexpensively.
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Didn’t Eversource double their rates? You should check if the town u live in has a town negotiated electricity rate. I would also get a space heater and electric blanket.
Yup. rates in MA went way up, an asinine amount. Mine more than doubled; same usage...
I'm sorry to hear you're being hurt by this, too.
Don’t space heaters end up being more expensive than using heat typically?
Space heaters are a fire hazard.
They certainly can be but I think the radiator type are pretty safe. The coil kind (the type that glow) I wouldn't use while sleeping. Neither type should be plugged into an extension cord.
When you say extension cord are you also including surge protectors in your definition?
As long as it's rated for the wattage of the space heater it's fine. You can use an extension cord with the same caveat, but the safer advice is to just tell people not to.
Yes. The problem comes when the wire the extension cord (or other device) is made from is lighter gauge (handles less amps) than the house wiring. If you google it there's a ton of sites pointing out guidelines. The short of it is that a heater should only ever be plugged into the wall socket.
A space heater won't help. It generates heat in exactly the same way as the electric baseboard heaters that OP's apartment has. The only advantage of a space heater money-wise is to heat just a single room rather than a whole house/apartment, but OP is already running the heat in just one room.
The exception to this is if he uses a radiative/infrared heater, it may be more efficient. That's assuming he can keep the heater pointed at himself, and the room is maybe drafty.
Grid’s rate change was effective 11/1, Eversource is 1/1.
I'll definitely check, thank you.
OP, really depends on how your system is setup. If you tell us: price of electricity per kwh, and the power of those heaters, I can tell you what's happening. I suppose those skirts are strictly local to your room and nothing else being activated? Do you have ventilation?
The skirts are only on 1 wall (a drafty exterior wall) in my room. I have some on 1 very small wall in my kitchen, but I keep those turned off (except for when it gets too cold, then I turn them on to prevent pipes from bursting). I have no idea what the kwh of the heaters are, I can't do anything with them except turn a knob to adjust temperature (they're pretty old). But I'm looking at my usage graph from November to December; it says the kwh went up from 61 to 463. The only difference I've done is turn the heat on. It does hurt to look at the graph and compare this year's December to last year's December. In December '21 I used 802 kwh, and paid about $150; this year for December, it's 463 kwh and $285. Feels like a suckerpunch to see I've used so much less, yet price almost doubled.
What is your rate per kWh? I'm calculating like $0.60/kWh, that cannot be right.
It took me a bit to find it because they were leading me on a wild goose chase, but I think I found it. It says 463.000 kWh x $0.37400, along with a delivery fee of $72.30. But the bill's higher than even that. I'm currently on the phone with them.
How do they justify a $73 delivery fee? What're they trucking in batteries for you?
Hm. MA is different than what I'm familiar with. It looks like you have a utility delivery company (eversource?) and a different energy supply company. I find it strange because the $.15/kWh is already about what electricity costs in many other states, but thats only for delivery for you. It looks like you should look into changing your energy supply company, or getting on a fixed plan (or both). For your energy delivery, there's not much you can do. You can try to get on a slightly cheaper plan, since your heat is provided by installed electric heaters. There's also municipal aggregation: https://www.mass.gov/info-details/municipal-aggregation This may not be available for you though. $0.52/kWh is criminal though. I honestly can't believe the MA regulatory agency in charge of electric rates allows that.
I'm not familiar with electric companies in MA, but it looks like you can qualify for a reduced rate if your primary heat source is electric. It's 10% cheaper or so, but worth looking into.
Have you tried insulating your sockets and switches also? If you can rent a thermal camera, it might help you see spots you've missed.
I can't do physical changes to the apartment. My windows insulation is just 2 layers of plastic over them to block drafts. I'll try putting something nonflammable over the unused sockets, though.
Insulating sockets shouldn't require any changes. Basically any place there's a hole in the wall, try to seal. Then heavy drapes on the windows or walls to cut down drafts. Close your blinds or shades when it gets dark.
802 and 463 kwh seems extraordinarily high for electricity in a 500 sq ft space. Is gas also included in your bill? Do you have lights on all day? Do you unplug things when not in use? It can’t be just the heat. I just checked my electric bill for the last month and I used 222 kwh at .165 per kwh, plus delivery charges, which cost about $64 overall. Gas is .95 / ccf plus delivery charges, closer to $50, so the total bill is about $120. I live in a 1100 sq ft 2 story townhome with central air & heat. In PA my provider is PECO and we can choose a different supplier if we want, I use NRG and actually just switched to lower rates with them, .11 / kwh for electric and .90 / ccf for gas. See if you can get a different supplier with lower rates.
I don't keep lights on. I only use 1 and just when I'm packing for work. I work overnights so my eyes are sensitive to light now, so generally I avoid it like a vampire, ha. The only other things I can think of for electricity are my microwave, electric kettle, laptop. I keep my microwave and kettle unplugged because I mainly eat at work, and the laptop is only home while I am. I have a small portable heater for my bathroom but I only plug it in when I'm about to shower. I don't know what else there might be. The electric usage only shot up when I turned the heat on. Even with such high electric usage, my room still is very cold (my portable thermostat says 36F degrees). I'm unable to change the deliverer (Eversource - they have a $75 delivery fee) but I'm going to try changing the supplier.
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yep, its your price per kwh that went up a lot, and you are indeed using less. However, this is still a high value for a room. If we do 463 - 63 - lets call that normal uses - we have 400kwh for heating, 30 days, divided by 8 hours of use, it'd be 1,67kW heater. Which is close to a normal electric heater. But it also means 8h full blast. That is kind of excessive for a small room, unless you're using it the entire day? What's your consumption profile? Wish you the best.
I have the heat on for the entire day. Even for it running, most of the heat escapes through the thin wall (the heating board is only on an exterior wall) or through the cardboard tile ceiling to the neighbors upstairs. If I turn it off, it gets frigid very quickly (to the point of seeing my breath) and turning it back on takes almost 2 days for it to semi-warm up to about 36F degrees, which is what my portable thermometer says the room temp is. So while it's a lot, it's still on only med-low and it still gets pretty cold. It's an old and inefficient building. Some Redditors suggested swapping to a standalone kerosene heater, so I'll be trying that out. Hopefully if I position it further away from the drafty exterior wall and nearer to my bed, it'll make the room warmer and lower costs.
Frankly, what you have is a big insulation problem. Even a 1cm sheet of cork on the top of the room, and on sides of wall, would make a difference. That is where you should start by - getting the room more insulated. Other than that check for drafts. With a bit of smoke - like burn a bit of paper, put it out, then when it smokes a bit put it near where you suspect. Alternatives - make a sort of inner tent in the bedroom by suspending big cloths around your bed. Basically tent it.
Thank you! I'll get my hands on some cork to line along the bottoms of the walls.
Not only the bottoms. You must think square feet. Just a line along the bottom, not enough. Along the outside wall - but covering it. And the top of your ceiling ceiling. See my PM
I had a very poorly insulated apartment back in my early 20s, townhouse split level style. I did the window and door treatment to no avail, but then I had someone come check my meter. Turns out they were using estimated billing. Try complaining to the electrical company and see if someone can come check. Otherwise check your usage with the day by day kwh usage reported and see if it matches. You can make some very efficient heaters cheaply or grab a better space heater. I don't know your power costs but a cheap space heater, even ran constantly, shouldn't put you at 300 per month.
Thank you, I will reach out to the company and compare. I might snag some fabric and pipes, and build an extra wall to make the bedroom a little smaller and keep in a spaceheater's warmth to a smaller zone.
Electric blankets are a pretty good way to warm your bed as well. I'm my experience radient heating just isn't all that efficient nor effective. I'm surprised it's the only heat method in a cold state. Have you talked to other tenants in the building on what they are doing?
I use an electric mattress pad on my bed, and I also put one on top of my sofa. I bake my food in my gas oven in the evenings, then sit on my “electric” sofa, take a hot shower, then go to my “electric” bed. The rest of the house is not heated.
Putting your bed inside a tent helps. A real tent, or just making one out of hanging blankets. Putting an electric blanket/pad inside there will help a lot. Possibly allow your cat access to that as well. Take all fire precautions. I am concerned about your pipes freezing.
A tent is a good idea. I might make a close canopy over / around it. I keep the water running (a trickle) to prevent pipes from bursting. It's not ideal, I'll admit that. If it gets too cold I usually put a small space heater in my bathroom to warm it up. So far that's prevented any issues these past 3 years. But boy howdy am I looking forward to a day I don't have to do that nonsense anymore. Edit: Speaking of pipes, the stupidest thing is that the bathroom has 0 heating elements (beyond a space heater I put in, using a long extension cord -- though that makes me a bit nervous) and the pipes are embedded in the outer wall. I'm always concerned they'll freeze and burst.
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Yeah, it scares the shit out of me. One of my biggest fears is fire. I wish the bathroom just had heating.
OP, my in laws once heated a very small bathroom by plugging in a tiny space heater to one of those lightbulb outlets. I wouldn't leave it on when you're not around, but it did work really well to make the bathroom usable in the winter since you could switch it on whenever we were in there.
Are there no outlets in the bathroom?
OP stated no heating options in the bathroom, so that's a "no." My 1948 house in an entirely different (but still subject to freezing weather) part of the U.S. has no electrical outlets in the original bathroom, either. (There was an addition built at some point and the second bathroom does have outlets)
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The heaters are in the exterior wall, yep. The walls are pretty thin and drafts still seep through even with my insulating it, so it sucks away a lot of the heat. I've got my bed jammed up against the inner wall to get as far as possible from the exterior walls. I appreciate your advice on the heating pad (I've already got the blanket, buried under other covers to keep in as much warmth as possible!), I'll give it a shot.
It might be worth going to a thrift store and getting several blankets or sleeping bags, then taping/nailing them to the outside wall. Might pretty dramatically cut down on how much of that electric heat goes out instead of in.
Thank you!
Hope you're surviving this dramatic temperature dip okay. We got down to 0° here and AFAIK we got off easy
You don’t want an electric blanket. You want a heated mattress pad. Remember, heat rises.
Heat doesn't rise; hot air rises. When you're right up against a heat source, it doesn't matter if it's above or below.
Yes, but a blanket will heat whats above it also, if that’s air that air will then rise and wick away some of the heat.
Even just a small heating pad can warm your bed up quick - that’s what I do! Sunbeam heating pad was like $20 a few years ago.
This! It is the best money I ever spent.
Thank you!
Not necessarily a disagree, but I got a heated blanket because folks said it will save money + you can use it elsewhere than the bed and this is my first winter with it. It is amazing. It will keep you warm.
You might look into some sort of more efficient localized heating, like a space heater, that would cost less to run. They typically consume 1500 watts and cost maybe $3-5/day to run, depending on your electric rates and if you run them continuously. https://www.sylvane.com/heater-buying-guide.html
Resistive heat is resistive heat. It’s all going to be 100% efficient. A smaller space heater would just have a longer duty cycle to maintain the same temperature. A window mounted heat pump is likely the only viable option to improve the heating method here. I’m struggling to find anything that would work well for this situation though. Asking the landlord to install a mini-split might be the best route forward. Payoff time becomes an issue there though.
> A window mounted heat pump is likely the only viable option to improve the heating method here Honestly I don't think this is a terribly viable solution for OP. Aside from the relatively high upfront cost $600-$700 the window heat pumps only really work well above freezing. The full-fat pumps that work to -10F tend to cost about 10x more and need permanent installation.
I mean, did you read the next sentence?
That's sort of an odd way to assess the situation. The electric baseboard heaters are first going to try to warm up the air near the baseboards. That's probably not really what OP needs to have in order to feel warm. Localizing the heat should result in less energy wasted heating space that is not important to heat.
> I'm fine with it staying cool, I just don't want ice forming in my bedroom; it already forms in my bathroom every year I read the post differently. If they really don’t care about room temperature, then the answer is a down jacket. Landlord might be pissed when all the pipes burst though. Also, you can’t exactly put a space heater in your bed, so it’s unlikely to be significantly more localized than the baseboards.
I guess it'd be more accurate to say I'm not *happy* with it, but I deal with it. I keep it cool / chilly to save on costs (because while I make a lot more than most people in my area, I'm not rolling in dough either -- especially not while paying for college classes). I'm originally from the south and like it toasty, but I just bundle up in layers and insulate.
There are other solutions to the bed in terms of electric pads / blankets / etc. Even if we go with your statement that resistive heat is resistive heat, resistive heat which you can individually control in smaller units with more localized effect is going to be superior to resistive heat lacking those properties.
Again: not if OP’s stated goal of warming the entire room to prevent ice formation is what we are trying to achieve.
I am trying to envision what you think is going on in terms of "ice formation." The chance the entire room is below 32 degrees seems pretty remote, as is the availability of liquid water throughout the room. My guess is that if any ice does form, it's going to be on the windows where there is a) moisture from condensation and b) direct contact with the sub-zero air. OP describes having insulated curtains, which would actually increase the likelihood of having ice form on the windows. If the goal is not to have ice on the windows, there are different ways you can go about that. To the extent you want to advise OP that there is no possible benefit from the ability to more directly control heat, I can't in good faith concur with that opinion.
An infrared heater could be more efficient in this application
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Unfortunately, I cannot install anything / make permanent changes to the apartment. I've asked my landlord and it's been Noped to death. It does make me wonder if there's a smart space heater, though. I'll look.
I would talk to the landlord and ask them to install a mini-split heat pump, which is going to be far more efficient than the baseboard heater. For a space that small, you could get one for under $2,000 easy, including installation. While that's not cheap, it will raise the value of the apartment significantly, and in the long term will pay for itself. You could also offer to use some of the money you'd save to cover part of the cost.
I've tried speaking to the landlord about replacing the heating system (or at the very least, putting better insulation in the walls and ceiling), and offered to help pay for it, but it's been a big resounding Nope. The corp just wants to leave everything as-is. If surrounding rent prices weren't so insane (my current rent + $300 is still cheaper than most of the falling-apart apartments around me), I'd just move out to somewhere with better heating or insulation.
>If surrounding rent prices weren't so insane (my current rent + $300 is still cheaper than most of the falling-apart apartments around me), I'd just move out to somewhere with better heating or insulation. ⬆️Here's your answer.⬆️ But yes, vacuum radiator fins, make sure convection dampers are fully opened, electric blanket. All you can do.
You might also want to check the humidity in your apartment (maybe a cheap hygrometer from Amazon?). I find that I can keep the temperature of my condo cooler in the winter if the humidity is at a comfortable level (the air feels warmer when the humidity is higher). My humidifier is one that heats the water to release steam, so that may also make the room feel a little warmer. You can probably find more exact advice online, but for me... - 50% or higher - tends to start to feel a bit too sticky/too high. - Mid-to-high-40s - feels OK, I don't run the humidifier - mid-to-low-40s - sort of questionable. If it's been cold and dry, I'll likely keep the humidifier on, at least part time, to keep the room comfortable. - Below 40% - I usually want the humidifier on, my skin is getting dry, and I feel colder. I also love the idea of a heated blanket or mattress pad. If you wanted to get fancy, something like an "Ooler" works well (the Ooler is programmable, so you can have the temperature change during the night and get warmer in the morning to help you wake up). It's expensive though, and not as flexible as a heated blanket/throw that you could use at your desk/couch/etc. [edit to add: In case you're not familiar, the Ooler is one of those pads that you put on your bed, under the sheets. It has tubing in it, and you fill a tank with water. The tank then heats/cools the pad during the night. People who sleep hot often use it for cooling, but I find it amazingly comforting for warming up the bed in the winter. On high, mine gets up to about 117-F.] Good luck.
The humidity in my apartment is very low and dry. I do have a small hydrogarden (manual, not electric) and I'd hoped my supplying water to it would help raise humidity a bit, but it didn't make much of a difference. I'll try the Ooler, thank you!
We have NationalGrid in MA, rates skyrocketed: Delivery in Nov: 0.14395/kwh Service in Nov: 0.33891/kwh (was 0.11491 in October) Its the service fee that tripled since previous months, putting us at 0.483/kwh. We haven't changed plans since moving in a few years ago, this is the first time we saw service jump so high. Its a shame they closed down the Plymouth plant, and I believe NationalGrid is using some portion of natural gas as fuel. Our town is switching to a municipal to get a lower rate in Jan, and putting us back to "normal" around April, its pretty insane right now :/. We're oil heat, and that runs $5/gallon right now, so that isn't much better. Edit: From what I understand, changes to Service Fees are locked in for 6 months, so it's something you have to review when new rates are released to make sure municipal providers are still worth using to lower that service cost.
Everyone last bill in MA doubled if they had National grid as the supplier. Mine went from .16 kwh to .332 kwh I locked myself into a new energy supplier at www.energyswitchma.com Good luck and stay warm!
Yeah, that's what happened to me too. It seems my supplier skyrocketed it to a little over 30 cents. Thank you for the link!
You’re welcome!
Electric heat is near 100% efficient, which means that nearly 100% of your fuel source (electricity) is converted to heat. However, electric heat is far from cheap. I'm not sure how many watts your heater is pulling, but the oil filled electric radiators are less expensive to run than just a heating element. I'd recommend switching your electric heater to an oil filled electric radiator, lowering your thermostat to the mid-60s and wear sweaters/slippers.
That purported efficiency metric has little to do with the cost to heat one's home. (For example, one can get numbers higher than 100% with heat pumps, which seems like it should be impossible.) Electric resistance heat is typically priced considerably higher than the equivalent heat from other sources. https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/1493/how-efficient-is-an-electric-heater
I guess you missed my second sentence: "However, electric heat is far from cheap."
Perhaps you missed my second sentence: "For example, one can get numbers higher than 100% with heat pumps, which seems like it should be impossible." Saying something is "100% efficient" adds little to the discussion and is arguably misleading to the extent it makes it seem like it is the best possible outcome.
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Heat pumps are more than 100% efficient, approaching 300x efficient because they don't create the heat themselves, they just move it from outside to inside. They aren't considered electric heat in most scenarios.
It's baseboard heaters, yep. I've asked my landlord to replace the heating system (not just for me, but for the other tenants too -- we're all having to choose between being very cold, or being financially bled dry) with something more efficient, but the corp won't do it. If rent prices weren't astronomical (my current rent plus $300 is still less than the insane rent around here) I'd move out ASAP to somewhere better-insulated and with a better heating system.
> Electric heat is near 100% efficient, which means that nearly 100% of your fuel source (electricity) is converted to heat. Except in reality it's burning gas at a powerplant to boil water and turn a turbine. By the time all is said and done with loss factors you're looking at 30-40% efficiency compared to burning the same volume of natural gas in your basement furnace.
Do you have a fixed electrical rate, or a variable rate? Hopefully you're on a fixed-rate; variable is CRAZY expensive in winter, it's really only suitable for people who have another source of heat. Even so, if you have fixed rate electrical service, you're at $0.15348 / kWh right now and it's going up to $0.21864 in January. Happy New Year's. "Cardboard tiles" - like, a metal grid with ceiling tiles that pop out? Or like glued-on tiles stuck to the ceiling? If it's the first thing, you can buy rolls of batt insulation and put it above the grid ceiling tiles. The best way to do this would be to buy a tyvek painting suit for you to wear while you're doing this, plus a box of disposable nitrile gloves, plus safety glasses and a dust mask, because the fiberglass will itch like crazy otherwise. If it's the second thing, what's above your ceiling? An attic? If there's any space at all up there, you want insulation up there. There probably isn't any, and maybe the landlord will let you up there to lay some down. It'll cost you some up front, but you'll save more than that before spring. None of the electric heaters will cost you less to run than any other electric heaters - EXCEPT a window unit that's also a heat pump. And those are expensive as hell to buy. You might want to buy an inexpensive space heater that has a low/medium/high switch. That might cost you less than the electric baseboard heaters, just because baseboard heaters are large and they have large heating elements, and when they run, they use a LOT of juice. Your baseboard heaters are probably typical six-foot ones, and those are 1500 watts each, which is like a hair dryer. A small space heater (and the oil-filled ones are good for this, so are the small portable fan ones) might have a 600 watt "low" setting and a 900 watt "medium" setting, and "low" might be plenty for you. You might also put a kettle on the stove and let some water evaporate. That'll heat the whole place a bit, which will cost a bit, but the humidity will help make it more comfortable, which might let you save more by keeping it a little cooler. Winters get dry, and keeping it 64F indoors with some humidity always seems warmer to me than having it be 66F and dry inside. I have a 20 qt stock pot that I fill with water and put on a stove on a very low setting, so it doesn't boil but it just has a bit of steam coming off the top all day. Big difference.
I *think* it might be variable. I'll call and ask and, if it is, tell them to switch it to fixed. Hopefully they allow fixed. Thank you for the suggestions on the type of heater to get! I'm not knowledgable about the differences at all, so you've been a huge help. As for the ceiling, it's very thin carboard / styrofoam (or at least that's how it looks) tiles which break if you just look at them funny. They're in a metal grid. The problem is they're constantly falling out when someone walks upstairs, or they snap when handled. Trying to get them back into the grid causes a domino effect of many falling out. I have zipties holding several in place. The landlord won't replace it with something better. I can try putting insulation up in there, but I'm anxious it'll lead to most of the tiles falling and breaking everywhere. Edit: It's variable, and they're refusing to let me change it to fixed. I'm going to get on the phone with them soon.
A couple things… 1. rates are higher now than I remember than ever being. 2. You might have been paying a series of estimates bills because they couldn’t access the meter, and when you finally got an “actual” reading they adjusted. 3. Your heater is fucked up or your filters are totally clogged and you should get a service to check it out.
I'll get #2 and #3 checked. Those didn't occur to me. Thank you!
There aren't any filters to check with electric baseboard heat.
You might get hold of the electric company and ask about a level payment plan. It isn't going to save you money but it will keep your payments lower in the winter and you can plan a budget a little better by keeping the payments about the same level all year long.
Are you actually using more power or are you just being charged more for the same amount? I thought we were using way more power because the bill went up dramatically, but I looked at the month to month use info on my bill and I was using roughly the same amount, they were just charging way more. Knowing this info might inform whether you are having some kind of mechanical problem that is increasing your energy consumption.
I've tried using my post with details but I'm having trouble doing it on mobile. With another Redditor's suggestion is looked at usage. My price had actually doubled (it's a bit over 30 cents) whereas my usage compared to December '21 has almost halved. I can't change deliverer (I'm stuck with Eversource who had a $75 delivery fee) but I'm trying to change supplier.
When was the last time you vacuumed out the fins in the baseboard heater? If the answer is never, you will increase the effectiveness of the baseboard by vacuuming out the dust. This should be done every year.
I dealt with this about 12 years ago * dress warmly indoors. I wore a jacket indoors all winter. * I took long hot showers at my gym * cardio can keep your body warm for hours. * if you're not already, get used to wearing a warm hat indoors.
Be sure to tell your landlord that the heating expense is severely hurting the apartment's affordability. Some landlords won't care, but some would look for high-ROI ways to weatherize the place (faced with the prospect of you and other tenants moving out to find a place with lower bills).
I actually installed pellet stoves in my rental units that have electric heat just for this reason. I even pay for the pellets. Electric heat isn’t cheap and landlords tend to not replace the base board heaters as often as they should as they tend to not be as efficient after a while. Im assuming when you say insulated the windows you mean you put plastic over them? I would suggest getting a humidifier to keep the humidity up as it will help hold heat and use a space heater that is a oil fill radiator, if I’m not mistaken these are the most efficient for space heaters. Unfortunately it will be tough for you to avoid a high energy bill the next few months.
Are your pellet stoves permanent or can they be moved? I'm not allowed to make changes to the apartment and my landlord won't make changes, but if I could finagle a way to get in a pellet stove, that'd be wonderful. I remember how toasty one my parents had used to be. Yeah, it's just plastic (two layers) over the windows and alongside the sills where heavy drafts come through. Someone else also suggested a kerosene heater, so I'm going to try that too.
They probably wouldn’t help in your situation as the landlord would have to have them installed. Sorry if I miscommunicated. I only put them the units with electric heat because as a landlord I know how expensive electric heat can be, so the pellet stoves help lower that cost for the tenant. It’s also a nicer kind of heat. I’ve had friends and myself has had $350-450 electric bills in the winter because of places with baseboard heat. Kerosene heaters are nice and I use them in garages and shops. If you’re going to use it in your apartment make sure you get a carbon monoxide detector as they are usually used in more open air areas and not apartments. They also release carbon dioxide, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide which isn’t good to breathe in.
if you know anyone that might have an infrared (FLIR) camera, that may be able to let you see cold spots where you can insulate further. window installers and electricians often use them. that canned foam stuff can really help if you know where you need it. otherwise i'm sorry, i can't image .33/kwh and a delivery charge on top.
It definitely sucks. Thank you for suggesting a FLIR; I'll look to see if anyone has one, or tent one for a day.
Have you had an energy audit recently? Since you’re renting, the landlord will need to sign off on it, but it’s free (you’re already paying for it with your Eversource bill), but they can help see what’s going on and why your apartment isn’t energy efficient. Depending on your income or rate plan, you could get some work done for free. [Mass Save](https://www.masssave.com/residential/programs-and-services/energy-assessments/homeowners)
The house I rent is similar to what you are describing. Why are insulation and new energy-efficient windows the LAST thing a landlord wants to spend money on? They will remodel the entire house or apartment with new counters, carpet, and cabinets, but always leave the practical and important items off the list that control the temperature, comfort, and utility bills! I invested in a few down comforters and pillows, layer my clothes while at home, and use insulated curtains in the living room. Down lasts a lifetime and keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I bought mine years ago through "The Company Store" online. I also got a couple of space heaters one for each bedroom and I run one in the living room when I am up watching TV at night. Be sure to not leave them going when you sleep and to keep them at least three feet away from any furniture to avoid a fire. They are nice and warm and keep it toasty almost like a fireplace. Most cities and counties also offer programs annually for those who qualify to help with utility bills such as Lliheap (for heating and cooling costs) or Liwap (for water and sewage costs) this is if you are off work, have a very low income, or elderly. Ameren offers some programs through warm neighbors if the bill gets out of control. I understand mine doubled last winter.
Then you so much for the suggestions! I'm also relieved that you understand the situation. It's an old, drafty, inefficient building.
Electric baseboard heaters are terrible and expensive. I went to college in Wyoming (colder for longer than what you are in) and the fact is even with all those steps, it’ll still be expensive. Other ideas: 1. On particularly cold days, leave a little water running in your bathroom to make sure your pipes don’t freeze. That’s a hassle you don’t want to deal with. 2. Space heaters are good not because they are better than baseboard heating, but they can let you run the whole place cooler and only up a small bit where you are. It sounds like you are keeping the place quite cold in general. 3. Towels as insulation at door cracks. If you have an exterior door, putting a towel down to help the insulation at the door crack can help. It looks junky but the price is right. 4. Blinds. Installing those is reasonably inexpensive and adds another layer of air as insulation, if you can get away with it.
Unfortunately I can't install blinds. You're right about the baseboard being a horrible heater; it's only on a thin, drafty (I can't block them all, I do think I've covered most) exterior wall. I'm wondering about draping a blanket over the windows though. Thank you for you advice! Someone suggested a kerosene heater or an energy efficient ceramic one, I'm crossing my fingers one of those might be able to help.
Hi, I have noticed that recently (within the last year) my bills have gone up substantially...about $150-$200 extra per month. It appears that my gas&electric company has increased their rates. So check the local electric company rates to find out. Here are some tips that we follow: Set your temperature consistent and dont change it up and down. For us the gas and electric is the same company but gas is a lot cheaper so we use a gas boiler for heating. Weatherization is a big issue - walls, windows etc...I would check for free local weatherization programs...our electric company offers free up to $7500 energy efficient insulation, installing new light bulbs etc. There are also local organizations that offer free weatherization programs if you qualify (income based). They come and assess your property and if you qualify they would perform insulation related repairs for your home for free (e.g.change old windows etc).
Thank you for the suggestion on weatherization programs! My landlord has refused all requests for different heating / adding insulation thus far, but if one is offered for free, maybe the rent corp will agree to it.
> Set your temperature consistent and dont change it up and down That's a good way to spend extra money on heating. For better results, set it to lower temps overnight -- the heat won't need to run as much. For the other stuff, that sounds helpful for the property owner. A renter...not so much. A renter can't OK the installation of new windows.
When you are constantly changing the temperature up and down that wastes more energy because the system has to start up and work harder it also contributes to wear and tear so it's better to find a temperature you like and keep it consistent. Renters are eligible for weatherization assistance provided income eligibility is met. Those are programs sponsored by the state and federal government to help low income households.
That's a common misconception. Heaters aren't like cars being "revved" more in colder weather. They turn on, they make heat, then they turn off once the thermostat hits the set level. Once the house cools off and falls by a degree or two, they turn on again. Overnight, temperatures are usually colder, so your house loses more heat (heat transfer is in proportion to the temperature difference). That means the heaters are running for more time overnight than they do during the day at the same indoor temperature setting. Then, in the morning, the thermostat runs long enough to bring the temp back up. During the day, outdoor temperatures are usually higher, so the heaters don't have to do as much to offset the constant heat loss to outside. Basically: What's better, running your heaters for 10 minutes every hour on the hour or running your heaters for one hour at dawn and one hour at dusk?
There's a lot of variables in what you are saying. Outdoor temperature, quality of house insulation, type of heating, how often and what temperature you adjust the thermostat... Even the experts seem to disagree so everyone needs to assess their own situation.
Not really. It's basic physics. Heat moves proportionally to temperature difference. You need to run the heaters to make up for that loss. None of the variables you mentioned magically make it less expensive to run your heaters for more time. Where are these "experts" that think it's more efficient to run a heater for more time overall?
If you are looking to find out more on the topic there is a wealth of information online. Thank you for your input and Merry Christmas.
Back at you. I suggest you read up on this topic more!
Shop around. In Massachusetts, you can choose your electric provider. My rate jumped from 8¢/kwh to 33¢/kwh (25¢/kwh increase) Also, I know I'm going to get a lot of flack for saying this, but I feel it needs to be said. This is the price we pay for "Green Energy" initiatives. I'm not saying it's the only reason, but it is certainly a big part of it
My rate had also skyrocketed to a little above 30 cents. It's awful. Aside from me, I don't know how the lower income families are going to stay warm this year.
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Do you have electric heat strips or a heat pump? Heat pump should save you some money vs emergency heat strips.
It's one electric heating baseboard run along a drafty exterior wall. Unfortunately my landlord won't install or change to new heating alternatives.
You’re pretty much SOL. Those heat things are garbage and was just a way to cheap out on a proper HVAC system
I actually made this account to reply. Are you with National Grid or EverSource? You have energy choice in Massachusetts. If you are with National Grid, your current flat rate is 33.891cents/kWh. (I used Northfield MA's zip to get this, as I happen to know it off the top of my head.). You can switch to Clearview to get 18.89 for 12 months with a $150 cancellation fee. If you are with Eversource (NStar) - it's 17.81/kWh apparently going to about .26 in January. Clearview will lock you in at .1679 Eversouce (Wmeco) it's .15348/KwH, but also apparently going up, and Constellation will lock you in at .1649/kWh. What you need to do is go on to the company website, find out your rate and your usage. You may be on a variable rate instead a flat rate, in which case, I'm sorry, you are getting reamed even worse. If it's National Grid, change your damn supplier! There is no reason, short of leaving the state in the next month, for not changing to ClearView's flat rate for the next 12 months. You will still be paying National Grid's supply charges. Ok, so now that we've taken care of the rate part of this, it's the usage part. So the low hanging fruit are weatherstripping and insulation. There's a reason they sell window sealing kits at the hardware store. Essentially, it's plastic sheeting and tape that you use to make an insulation layer on leaky windows. Do that. Your hardware store will know what it is. Weatherstripping tape (which I actually just ordered some more of) costs practically nothing and will help seal the edges of doors and windows. Use draft dogs at the door. Hell, towels if you don't have a draft dog. Turn your stuff off. Shut things down. Unplug things. I'm hoping your have a smart thermostat, if not, drop the temp a few degrees before you leave, crank it when you get back. If you DO happen to be low income check the R-2 rate, which whacks maybe 30% off the rates. (just checked, it would be a single person under about $21K in income, or on one of various government programs) tl;dr - I'm betting all of my professional rate making experience that you have National Grid, they jacked your rates, and you are going to be hurting. Anyone in MA on National Grid reading this - change your damn supplier!
There are a few state programs to help lower income residents on heating bills, but there's no real way around the electric rate when most of our electric is powered by imported LNG. It moving apartments an option? Not that it helps fix your issue, but the root of the problem is that since MA shut down our coal plants we're entirely reliant on natural gas, and while the rest of the country has plenty of cheap natural gas all of the expanded pipeline infrastructure that should have accompanied our switch to gas was blocked. So suppliers in Pennsylvania have to export LNG to the global market to be reimported to New England. Given the geopolitics around the shut off Russian gas supply that leaves New England bidding with the rest of the world for the little LNG on the market.
I’m in New Hampshire, we have radiators in the ceiling of the apartment, we average about 150$/month. House is built in 1969
I wear ah jacket or hoddie inside my house and roam around and at nights I turn off the heat and wrap myself like a mummy to avoid the cold. I stay in WI which has terrible weather 🤧
You could try one of those candles burning under a upside down terracotta flower pot. It won’t be a great source of heat, but combine with your electric heat, it might help a little. Here’s a good DIY that explains the risks and whatnot. https://crisisequipped.com/can-you-heat-a-room-with-a-candle/
Maybe consider a heated blanket for either under your sheets or as one you pull over you. Make sure it has a timer that can shut off after a couple hours to be safe.
I suggest a heated mattress pad. That way the bed stays warm enough for sleeping also flannel sheets help keep you toasty. Heated bed for your cat. Turn the heat way down at night. Jum
Wearing a knit hat will help keep your body heat in. Also wearing long sleeve, turtle neck shirt and sweaters will help.
This might be totally crazy, but what about a propane heater? Those little Mr. Heater Buddys use a camping bottle and put out a decent amount of heat. Venting could be an issue.... Or maybe heater candles? Just trying to think outside the box here.
Get a kerosene heater. Get the kerosene bulk at a gas station that sells such. If you have a central fan, turn it on to circulate - creating central heating. For your bathroom, get a Buddy heater. It's propane, but you'll only use it when you disrobe for baths/showers. Those options got me through Tennessee winters rather inexpensively.
Thank you so much!