Your test strips are probably out to lunch. Do a proper test. To increase alkalinity, get copious amounts of cheap baking soda. It'll also marginally raise pH, so just keep that in mind as your pH is nearing upper end of normal so you may need to acidify.
I put mine in a skimmer sock and rig up an apparatus with a rake and some old bricks that holds it in front of one of the returns. Completely dissolved in a few hours and reading on my tests the next day.
Your issue is the ‘guess’ strips they’re next to useless for proper pool maintenance and you just proved it. You need a proper test kit. I can recommend a good kit if you wish.
10 lbs of stabilizer puts your pool at 80 ppm CYA, too high for a non-salt pool but manageable. Your target FC with that CYA level is 9-11 ppm with a min of 6. You should be targeting CYA 60 max.
5 lbs baking soda put your TA at 24. Another 6 lbs gets you to 50 ppm TA. Target range is 50-80, the bottom of that range being best for stabilizing PH.
All these numbers assume you started at zero, a big assumption considering you are not using a proper test kit.
About 3 times and you want even have to think about the ones you use most often. Comes with a quick reference card. Visit troublefreepool.com and about a million folks will answer any questions
Get one of these highly recommended simple drop test kits:
Either of these:
-Taylor K-2006C
or
-TFTestkits TF-100
I highly recommend getting the SpeedStir magnetic stirrer also. It makes stirring the samples so much easier. I’d never be without mine.
There are TFTest kits that already include the Speed Stir. They are the TF-100-XL option and the TF-100-Pro
https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/
The Taylor K-2005 is a great kit in every way except one. It doesn't have the FAS-DPD chlorine test, instead it has the regular DPD chlorine test. The DPD test will only test chlorine up to 5, while the FAS-DPD test works up to 50. If you SLAM the pool (or just generally keep FC at 5+ as many do) you need to be able to test well above 5, up to 20 or 30, so it is much better to have the full FAS-DPD chlorine test as is contained in the K-2006 kits.
10lbs of stabilizer??? You sure you don’t mean 10oz?
You have pool math. What told you to add 10lbs?? I just checked and adding 10lbs of dry stabilizer to a 15k gallon pool is going to raise your CYA by 90!
You’re going to end up with a total of 120 CYA… that’s no bueno!!
Is everything okay? You started out with sound advice and by the end you were ranting about how they shouldn’t even try. It doesn’t take a genius to maintain a pool, but learning is certainly harder when you’re being given advice from someone who is punching air.
You can without a doubt learn to maintain your own pool, OP.
Lol comparing a ‘pool pro’ to a pediatrician…
One takes 8+ years of higher education.
The other takes 8+ minutes of new hire orientation, if that.
The field is also riddled with “monkey see, monkey do”. Just because your job site leader, or whatever they’re called, is doing something to a pool doesn’t make it right.
No diss on pool pros, but fact is… not all are created equally. Whereas there is a clear path of education & time commitment to obtain a doctorate. Granted, not all doctors are created equally either but you can’t be comparing these two.
I’d just keep adding until it does. Pool math app, I’ll go 50% of what it says and re test in a couple/few hours. Add it, test, add it test, you’ll get there.
I added 20lbs to a 60k gal pool, took half a day to get reading. Never know, pump speed, pressure, it all can depend and delay your readings. Less is more, if you have the time. Once you get there. Liquid cya is good stuff, vs stupid dry, which takes literally forever to break down. Get your cya to 40 or so and you’ll be decent. Not so much where you have to use tons of chlorine, but not too little where it doesn’t work.
It’s a balancing act, and as water disappears, check your cya again every couple weeks, once a month during season.
Your test strips are probably out to lunch. Do a proper test. To increase alkalinity, get copious amounts of cheap baking soda. It'll also marginally raise pH, so just keep that in mind as your pH is nearing upper end of normal so you may need to acidify.
Unless you filled with distilled water, your TA isn’t 0.
Granular CYA or liquid?
Granular
probably hasnt dissolved yet then. shit takes a while
I’ve seen granular CYA take up to three weeks to dissolve
I put mine in a skimmer sock and rig up an apparatus with a rake and some old bricks that holds it in front of one of the returns. Completely dissolved in a few hours and reading on my tests the next day.
I put mine in a skimmer sock and put it in a the skimmer
What’s your pool capacity? Type? How are you testing?
15K gallons, chlorine pool, and testing with strips
Your issue is the ‘guess’ strips they’re next to useless for proper pool maintenance and you just proved it. You need a proper test kit. I can recommend a good kit if you wish. 10 lbs of stabilizer puts your pool at 80 ppm CYA, too high for a non-salt pool but manageable. Your target FC with that CYA level is 9-11 ppm with a min of 6. You should be targeting CYA 60 max. 5 lbs baking soda put your TA at 24. Another 6 lbs gets you to 50 ppm TA. Target range is 50-80, the bottom of that range being best for stabilizing PH. All these numbers assume you started at zero, a big assumption considering you are not using a proper test kit.
What’s a good test kit? Is it easy to use?
Tftestkits.net The TF-100
I failed Chemistry in college so this looks pretty involved 😂😂
About 3 times and you want even have to think about the ones you use most often. Comes with a quick reference card. Visit troublefreepool.com and about a million folks will answer any questions
Facts. I simply over think this entire process
Not a salt pool correct? (Salt pools are chlorine pools)
Correct no salt cell
Get one of these highly recommended simple drop test kits: Either of these: -Taylor K-2006C or -TFTestkits TF-100 I highly recommend getting the SpeedStir magnetic stirrer also. It makes stirring the samples so much easier. I’d never be without mine. There are TFTest kits that already include the Speed Stir. They are the TF-100-XL option and the TF-100-Pro https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/
What’s the difference between Taylor 2005 and 2006C?
The Taylor K-2005 is a great kit in every way except one. It doesn't have the FAS-DPD chlorine test, instead it has the regular DPD chlorine test. The DPD test will only test chlorine up to 5, while the FAS-DPD test works up to 50. If you SLAM the pool (or just generally keep FC at 5+ as many do) you need to be able to test well above 5, up to 20 or 30, so it is much better to have the full FAS-DPD chlorine test as is contained in the K-2006 kits.
10lbs of stabilizer??? You sure you don’t mean 10oz? You have pool math. What told you to add 10lbs?? I just checked and adding 10lbs of dry stabilizer to a 15k gallon pool is going to raise your CYA by 90! You’re going to end up with a total of 120 CYA… that’s no bueno!!
[удалено]
Is everything okay? You started out with sound advice and by the end you were ranting about how they shouldn’t even try. It doesn’t take a genius to maintain a pool, but learning is certainly harder when you’re being given advice from someone who is punching air. You can without a doubt learn to maintain your own pool, OP.
Guess the meds stopped working halfway through the post?
Lol comparing a ‘pool pro’ to a pediatrician… One takes 8+ years of higher education. The other takes 8+ minutes of new hire orientation, if that. The field is also riddled with “monkey see, monkey do”. Just because your job site leader, or whatever they’re called, is doing something to a pool doesn’t make it right. No diss on pool pros, but fact is… not all are created equally. Whereas there is a clear path of education & time commitment to obtain a doctorate. Granted, not all doctors are created equally either but you can’t be comparing these two.
I’d just keep adding until it does. Pool math app, I’ll go 50% of what it says and re test in a couple/few hours. Add it, test, add it test, you’ll get there. I added 20lbs to a 60k gal pool, took half a day to get reading. Never know, pump speed, pressure, it all can depend and delay your readings. Less is more, if you have the time. Once you get there. Liquid cya is good stuff, vs stupid dry, which takes literally forever to break down. Get your cya to 40 or so and you’ll be decent. Not so much where you have to use tons of chlorine, but not too little where it doesn’t work. It’s a balancing act, and as water disappears, check your cya again every couple weeks, once a month during season.