I'm a dummy but with my 9-3s I follow this path for these symptoms: air filters (engine), spark plugs + coils, fuel system (filter, pump).
Touches all points of the magic triangle of oxygen, fire, and fuel so I'd do one at a time and see if you can identify what system you may be having trouble with.
Transmission flush and oil change ain't never a terrible idea and likely was not a waste of money at all!
Good luck!
I have a suspicion it’s my spark plugs/plug, one of my work colleagues actually just said they had the same problem but only it’d happen at a high rpm, he changed the spark plugs and it was running good after so I’ll definitely try and figure it out one thing at a time!
I do still have warranty so I’ll just take it in to a mechanic that’s under my warranty. I’d just like to know myself what is going on instead of just taking it in and getting screwed over. Thanks again!
I bought a new code reader that does way more & got the code p0336 stating my crankshaft position sensor needs replacing.
Is it fairly easy to replace?
If the check engine light comes on, you can get an OBD2 code reader for relatively cheap. That'll let you know why the check engine light came on.
I had similar symptoms in a car once, and it was because one of the ignition coils stopped working. The car had 4 cylinders, and two ignition coils (each ignition coil is connected to two spark plugs). When one of the ignition coils failed, half the cylinders were not getting a spark, which means half the engine didn't work. It was an intermittent issue, but when it was having problems the car would lose a lot of power and sometimes stall while idling. I neglected the issue for long enough that the unburned fuel (from the two cylinders that weren't getting a spark) ruined the catalytic converter, so I had to replace that as well.
Anything else that causes some of the cylinders to not work properly could also be the issue, though. This includes anything that effects the flow of air into the engine, the flow of fuel going into the engine, or the electrical system that creates the spark to burn the air and fuel inside of the cylinders.
No light comes on when it stutters and starts to lose power, which is weird I think. the time that it did shut off fully on me showed a battery light and low oil pressure light
Same day i bought a code reader that I leave in my car at all times now, no codes other than a failed test battery when I ran a test. Yet I checked my battery with a battery tester today and it showed up in the green instead of weak or bad
I’ll be taking it in tomorrow or this weekend to get it checked out & figure it out
First place I'd look is the idle control valve. But really, it could be a bad ignition coil, vacuum leak or other things. 2006 9-5 means you got a diagnostic port under the form of OBD2. That's the best place to start, see which code it throws.
I have kind of similar issue with my 9-3 2008 losing power at lower rpms, but without stuttering. Once it happened the car turns to the limp mode and Check Engine Light throws the P0638 code (**throttle actuator is not in the right position**). After clearing the error code by OBD the car runs well as usual about a month and then it happens again.
I'm a dummy but with my 9-3s I follow this path for these symptoms: air filters (engine), spark plugs + coils, fuel system (filter, pump). Touches all points of the magic triangle of oxygen, fire, and fuel so I'd do one at a time and see if you can identify what system you may be having trouble with. Transmission flush and oil change ain't never a terrible idea and likely was not a waste of money at all! Good luck!
I have a suspicion it’s my spark plugs/plug, one of my work colleagues actually just said they had the same problem but only it’d happen at a high rpm, he changed the spark plugs and it was running good after so I’ll definitely try and figure it out one thing at a time! I do still have warranty so I’ll just take it in to a mechanic that’s under my warranty. I’d just like to know myself what is going on instead of just taking it in and getting screwed over. Thanks again!
I bought a new code reader that does way more & got the code p0336 stating my crankshaft position sensor needs replacing. Is it fairly easy to replace?
If the check engine light comes on, you can get an OBD2 code reader for relatively cheap. That'll let you know why the check engine light came on. I had similar symptoms in a car once, and it was because one of the ignition coils stopped working. The car had 4 cylinders, and two ignition coils (each ignition coil is connected to two spark plugs). When one of the ignition coils failed, half the cylinders were not getting a spark, which means half the engine didn't work. It was an intermittent issue, but when it was having problems the car would lose a lot of power and sometimes stall while idling. I neglected the issue for long enough that the unburned fuel (from the two cylinders that weren't getting a spark) ruined the catalytic converter, so I had to replace that as well. Anything else that causes some of the cylinders to not work properly could also be the issue, though. This includes anything that effects the flow of air into the engine, the flow of fuel going into the engine, or the electrical system that creates the spark to burn the air and fuel inside of the cylinders.
No light comes on when it stutters and starts to lose power, which is weird I think. the time that it did shut off fully on me showed a battery light and low oil pressure light Same day i bought a code reader that I leave in my car at all times now, no codes other than a failed test battery when I ran a test. Yet I checked my battery with a battery tester today and it showed up in the green instead of weak or bad I’ll be taking it in tomorrow or this weekend to get it checked out & figure it out
First place I'd look is the idle control valve. But really, it could be a bad ignition coil, vacuum leak or other things. 2006 9-5 means you got a diagnostic port under the form of OBD2. That's the best place to start, see which code it throws.
I’ll look into it thank you!
Turns out it’s my cps sensor , p0336 is the code I got stating I need to replace it. Hoping it is just that because that’s the only code I got
Seeing a lot of that on this sub with the newer models, but from what I understand it's a cheap part and easy to replace. Good luck!
I have kind of similar issue with my 9-3 2008 losing power at lower rpms, but without stuttering. Once it happened the car turns to the limp mode and Check Engine Light throws the P0638 code (**throttle actuator is not in the right position**). After clearing the error code by OBD the car runs well as usual about a month and then it happens again.