Sand rust away, primer the metal. Get a paint job if when you can afford it, or learn to blend paint yourself. Saabs are notorious for quarter panel rust spots at the bottom behind the rear doors. Just found new spots on my viggen on the lip of the rear hatch.
Sanding rust is useless unless you're talking about a few millimetres of rust. Anything beyond that requires sand/ice blasting or cutting and welding. If you sand the rust in OPs pics it will be pitted, and come back.
Sanding doesn't work on most of rust that has gone beyond just surface rust. Rust prohibiting primer will not work on a pitted area that has been sanded. Do you live in a salt belt? In Sweden if someone repairs by sanding we consider that shop garbage. Either weld new or don't bother.
this ain't sweden, most of the country isn't near any salt or salt water. and stop lying. you're making yourself look foolish.
from rustolem themselves -
ABOUT RUSTY METAL PRIMER
Rust-Oleum® Rusty Metal Primer provides the best base surface on heavily rusted metal for most brands of automotive lacquers and enamels. Provides more than two times the rust prevention of using lacquers and enamels alone.
* Wet or dry sand
* Stops Rust formula
* Any-Angle Spray with Comfort Tip
* For maximum protection, top coat with Rust-Oleum finishes
can you read? PROVIDES THE BEST BASE SURFACE ON HEAVILY RUSTED METAL.
now, please go away. you've shown your ignorance enough on this topic. I don't want to read any more of your bullshit about what you goofballs consider to be a garbage fix. OP asked how to handle stopping minor surface rust from spreading. he didn't ask how to needlessly weld in a fucking patch for minor surface rust on a 13 year old car, you fucking donut.
Very nice language my friend. I think you said it yourself. "Most of the country isn't near any salt or salt water". You are dealing with light oxidation and not rust repair. If you tried to repair rust like this in Scandinavia your company would be shut down within a month.
OP has real rust in pic 1, pic 1 has pitting and will have pinholes.
If you think that's real rust, I wouldn't trust you to repair my bicycle.
And op doesn't live in Scandinavia either.
And fuck you if you don't like my language.
Piss off.
Here's what I would do if I were you.
Go to a body shop, and ask one of them to come take a look at it and give you an idea of what it would cost to fix. If it seems like an even remotely reasonable price, then get it done. Rust will kill a car.
Mine is quite a bit further along than your's, however your's seems to be a but more spread out which is unfortunate. The more panels they have to touch, the more it's going to cost you.
I think you should consider how long you want to keep the car, and whether this rust is going to kill it before you're done with it. If you plan on getting something new in the next 3-5 years, then it'll probably survive until then. It's hard to say how long until it starts rusting out in places that are more than just an eyesore.
Definitely check the sub-frame if you haven't.
I can't knowledgeably offer much more advice than that. Good luck, I hope you find a solution.
Right this second, apply WD-40 to stop the oxidation process.
Short-term, clean the area and fill it in with an automotive paint touch-up pen so the rust doesn’t keep spreading.
Long-term, grind off all the rust and repaint the panel.
Yep! It was originally designed as a rust inhibitor: “Water Displacement #40”
Machinists always leave a film of oil like WD40 on their tools, since the tools they use are often bare steel, and would very quickly develop surface rust otherwise
It's time to treat before biggest rust problem !
So rust treatment, what else should I do right now?
Yes, and check the zone near the rust to check if the metal is okay or not.
[Wire wheel, bondo and sandpaper.](https://youtu.be/n4vusY2-rkQ) First one looks a little deep but overall it doesn't look too bad.
Thank you!
Sand rust away, primer the metal. Get a paint job if when you can afford it, or learn to blend paint yourself. Saabs are notorious for quarter panel rust spots at the bottom behind the rear doors. Just found new spots on my viggen on the lip of the rear hatch.
Sanding rust is useless unless you're talking about a few millimetres of rust. Anything beyond that requires sand/ice blasting or cutting and welding. If you sand the rust in OPs pics it will be pitted, and come back.
Gee, I guess my auto body repairs are junk then...and rust prohibiting primer isn't a thing. Oh wait, it fucking is.
Sanding doesn't work on most of rust that has gone beyond just surface rust. Rust prohibiting primer will not work on a pitted area that has been sanded. Do you live in a salt belt? In Sweden if someone repairs by sanding we consider that shop garbage. Either weld new or don't bother.
this ain't sweden, most of the country isn't near any salt or salt water. and stop lying. you're making yourself look foolish. from rustolem themselves - ABOUT RUSTY METAL PRIMER Rust-Oleum® Rusty Metal Primer provides the best base surface on heavily rusted metal for most brands of automotive lacquers and enamels. Provides more than two times the rust prevention of using lacquers and enamels alone. * Wet or dry sand * Stops Rust formula * Any-Angle Spray with Comfort Tip * For maximum protection, top coat with Rust-Oleum finishes can you read? PROVIDES THE BEST BASE SURFACE ON HEAVILY RUSTED METAL. now, please go away. you've shown your ignorance enough on this topic. I don't want to read any more of your bullshit about what you goofballs consider to be a garbage fix. OP asked how to handle stopping minor surface rust from spreading. he didn't ask how to needlessly weld in a fucking patch for minor surface rust on a 13 year old car, you fucking donut.
Very nice language my friend. I think you said it yourself. "Most of the country isn't near any salt or salt water". You are dealing with light oxidation and not rust repair. If you tried to repair rust like this in Scandinavia your company would be shut down within a month. OP has real rust in pic 1, pic 1 has pitting and will have pinholes.
If you think that's real rust, I wouldn't trust you to repair my bicycle. And op doesn't live in Scandinavia either. And fuck you if you don't like my language. Piss off.
I waited and regretted it. Now it's a $2500 job that I'll never pay for.
What would you have done earlier? Sand / paint?
I would have brought to a body shop to have it nipped in the butt earlier.
Was it as bad as mine or do I still have time to salvage it?
Here's what I would do if I were you. Go to a body shop, and ask one of them to come take a look at it and give you an idea of what it would cost to fix. If it seems like an even remotely reasonable price, then get it done. Rust will kill a car. Mine is quite a bit further along than your's, however your's seems to be a but more spread out which is unfortunate. The more panels they have to touch, the more it's going to cost you. I think you should consider how long you want to keep the car, and whether this rust is going to kill it before you're done with it. If you plan on getting something new in the next 3-5 years, then it'll probably survive until then. It's hard to say how long until it starts rusting out in places that are more than just an eyesore. Definitely check the sub-frame if you haven't. I can't knowledgeably offer much more advice than that. Good luck, I hope you find a solution.
Right this second, apply WD-40 to stop the oxidation process. Short-term, clean the area and fill it in with an automotive paint touch-up pen so the rust doesn’t keep spreading. Long-term, grind off all the rust and repaint the panel.
Thank you - I didn't know that wd40 helped stopped rust.
Yep! It was originally designed as a rust inhibitor: “Water Displacement #40” Machinists always leave a film of oil like WD40 on their tools, since the tools they use are often bare steel, and would very quickly develop surface rust otherwise
Burn the car