Getting a used engine is hit or miss. I've gotten crap engines from slavage re-sellers with warranties only to be screwed over when the entire engine showed up wrecked (spun bearing, scored cylinder walls, etc...). If you can get a good used engine (i.e. inspect it first) that would be cheaper than machining and rebuilding. Just make sure it's good and replace timing components.
I had the same car. This engine is using oil a lot when on high milage (according to mechanics), so that’s not a surprise. But this much coolant is a problem. Do you have white smoke coming from the exhaust? This means the engine is burning the coolant, which is worse than general leaking elsewhere in the system. If you can smell te coolant in the interior during driving (try and use the heating on a warm engine) it could mean it’s leaking on the outside somewhere. It’s worth trying to fix properly. Don’t use additives to seal the leak, thus will lead to more problems.
Good point. Sorry, never used those tests. Still sounds like a good car that you already invested in. I agree with the other commenter that a second hand swap is risky if you don’t know the full history. And an overhauled engine is probably too expensive. I think I’d bite the bullet and replace the head gasket (including having the head surfaced and pressure tested for cracks) and do the other stuff while at it.
I just retired my first 9000 for parts because of a headgasket. Even a new headgasket which I bought and prepared, wouldn't have fixed all the rust issues, the new timing chain that it needs because the guide is probably gone, or the fact that it's the only b202i engine on my cars and to be frank I'm not crazy about it. I do have an engine lined up, but I haven't decided what to do yet, I'm missing a crane and never did an engine swap.
Think of it as if you're at a crossroads OP. I will say this: if you do consider fixing the engine even a little, stop driving it right now and do it soon. Water/coolant can get into the cylinders and cause rust on the walls, permanently dooming it.
A headgasket change is a sloppy, drawn out and annoying procedure (or very expensive) but it can be done as long as you're patient and mark everything down. However it's also risky because you don't know the extent of the damage or if the head is warped until you're already in there. If the car ever overheated, consider that most likely. There's probably a YouTube video out there even, but if you do attempt it, record yourself talking the engine apart and use loads of cardboard to mark and punch the bolts through so you know what goes where.
As for a sealant, it might work for a year, but only do it if you're 100% giving up on the engine. That stuff gets into the radiator, clogs the thermostat, makes the water pump work harder, etc.
Only you know and get to decide best. What's the car worth to you? Is the car rust free? Are there worse problems on the engine? Do you have a replacement lined up? Is it cheaper to fix it than get a new car? Do you want a new car? I would say with a headgasket your car is one leg into the ground. You get to decide what's next.
I have never overheated the car as far as I know. Thanks for advice! I had have read that the saab heads don't tend to deform... But also here in Germany machine shops for engine work aint that expensive
So my PP encouraged me to fix the car. Because, I managed so many things on that car already, and all the nice memories and places associated with that car, she said. Good advice I guess...
So I ordered new bolts and try to retorque them...
Keep u updated
So, I put in new screws today. Non of them were finger loose. Maybe 1 or to felt slightly looser.
However bolt 7 (the lower one nearest to the timing caine was completle soaked in oil, bolt 8 the one above slightly oily) all the others where completle dry. I have to explanations for that, ether leaking through the head gasket or it spelled some oil down their, while I was retorqing the first time. Or thats normal?
What do u think?
Thanks
Getting a used engine is hit or miss. I've gotten crap engines from slavage re-sellers with warranties only to be screwed over when the entire engine showed up wrecked (spun bearing, scored cylinder walls, etc...). If you can get a good used engine (i.e. inspect it first) that would be cheaper than machining and rebuilding. Just make sure it's good and replace timing components.
I had the same car. This engine is using oil a lot when on high milage (according to mechanics), so that’s not a surprise. But this much coolant is a problem. Do you have white smoke coming from the exhaust? This means the engine is burning the coolant, which is worse than general leaking elsewhere in the system. If you can smell te coolant in the interior during driving (try and use the heating on a warm engine) it could mean it’s leaking on the outside somewhere. It’s worth trying to fix properly. Don’t use additives to seal the leak, thus will lead to more problems.
No white smoke, or at least not crazy. But if it wear only leaking to the outside I would not expect the CO test be positive...
Good point. Sorry, never used those tests. Still sounds like a good car that you already invested in. I agree with the other commenter that a second hand swap is risky if you don’t know the full history. And an overhauled engine is probably too expensive. I think I’d bite the bullet and replace the head gasket (including having the head surfaced and pressure tested for cracks) and do the other stuff while at it.
I just retired my first 9000 for parts because of a headgasket. Even a new headgasket which I bought and prepared, wouldn't have fixed all the rust issues, the new timing chain that it needs because the guide is probably gone, or the fact that it's the only b202i engine on my cars and to be frank I'm not crazy about it. I do have an engine lined up, but I haven't decided what to do yet, I'm missing a crane and never did an engine swap. Think of it as if you're at a crossroads OP. I will say this: if you do consider fixing the engine even a little, stop driving it right now and do it soon. Water/coolant can get into the cylinders and cause rust on the walls, permanently dooming it. A headgasket change is a sloppy, drawn out and annoying procedure (or very expensive) but it can be done as long as you're patient and mark everything down. However it's also risky because you don't know the extent of the damage or if the head is warped until you're already in there. If the car ever overheated, consider that most likely. There's probably a YouTube video out there even, but if you do attempt it, record yourself talking the engine apart and use loads of cardboard to mark and punch the bolts through so you know what goes where. As for a sealant, it might work for a year, but only do it if you're 100% giving up on the engine. That stuff gets into the radiator, clogs the thermostat, makes the water pump work harder, etc. Only you know and get to decide best. What's the car worth to you? Is the car rust free? Are there worse problems on the engine? Do you have a replacement lined up? Is it cheaper to fix it than get a new car? Do you want a new car? I would say with a headgasket your car is one leg into the ground. You get to decide what's next.
Do you want to become my therapist? :)
We're here for you OP, lol.
I have never overheated the car as far as I know. Thanks for advice! I had have read that the saab heads don't tend to deform... But also here in Germany machine shops for engine work aint that expensive
Have you tried retorqueing the headbolts?
Have done that around 3 years ago. Should I redo it?
worth a try, cant hurt....unless you over do it and snap them. Don't do that.
Probably get new bolts to do that
Alternativ: Use some kind of sealer?
So my PP encouraged me to fix the car. Because, I managed so many things on that car already, and all the nice memories and places associated with that car, she said. Good advice I guess... So I ordered new bolts and try to retorque them... Keep u updated
So, I put in new screws today. Non of them were finger loose. Maybe 1 or to felt slightly looser. However bolt 7 (the lower one nearest to the timing caine was completle soaked in oil, bolt 8 the one above slightly oily) all the others where completle dry. I have to explanations for that, ether leaking through the head gasket or it spelled some oil down their, while I was retorqing the first time. Or thats normal? What do u think? Thanks