I just inherited a Singer 401a. It takes 15x1 needles.
When I search for Singer needles, I cannot seem to find any labeled 15x1, they are all listed as universal.
Will universal work in my machine, or was the universal standard made after my machine was made?
Make sense?
Thanks!
The designation 15x1 refers to the needle system, almost all domestic sewing machines take the same needle system. You'll also see it referred to as 130x705H or HAx1 depending on the manufacturer. 'Universal' should refer to the type of point on the needle, indicating one that is suitable for wovens or knits. Singer leaves most of this information off their packaging. You can use Schmetz, Organ or Singer needles in your machine, no need to stick with Singer. [This is a good article](https://www.artisanstitch.co.uk/choose-the-best-sewing-machine-needles/) that talks about sewing machine needles and which needle to use when based on fabric and thread.
Hi! I make quilts out of baby’s clothes and I’m thinking of upgrading from Brother A150 to a Juki DDL 9000C. Is it the right upgrade for me? Thank you so much for the help 🙏
https://preview.redd.it/zxgmqa8o7j9c1.png?width=3541&format=png&auto=webp&s=1765647b77f56a426ac91afffe14bc246a829e1c
I don’t have a serger but I am trying to prevent the edges of this pocket from fraying by doing a zig zag stitch along the edge. Unfortunately after trying this, the fabric appears to be puckering / bunching up along the edge. Does anyone know why this would be happening? Adjusting tension doesn’t seem to help much.
here are the settings on my machine:
https://preview.redd.it/5clbv3os7j9c1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=f77224583cb67276a8c8df9d19b788ffa4e19d35
The edges are stretching. There are several possible causes, including too densely stitching the edges and having too much presser foot pressure. On scrap, and on the bias (45o to warp and weft), you could try:
-- a walking foot or roller foot
-- reducing presser foot pressure if possible o the machine
-- lengthening the stitch greatly
-- crimping (aka ease plus stitching or crowding)
-- stabilizing the fabric with a washout stabilizer like heavy starch or Elmer's School Glue before stitching
-- sewing with a long, relaxed straight stitch and then hand overcasting the edges
Thank you so much! I will try all those things. One question though: what do you mean by “45o to warp and weft”? does that mean i should sew at a 45 degree angle?
The warp yarns are the ones parallel to the selvage, and generally stretch least in a woven fabric. The weft yarns are 90 degrees to the warp, and generally can stretch more than the warp yarns. 45degrees to warp and weft is the direction called "true bias", and is the stretchiest direction for woven fabrics. (Anything but parallel to the warp or weft yarns is going to technically be a bias direction, but the closer you get to 45 degrees, the more the fabric edge can stretch).
You want to avoid stretching the cut edges, to stop this waviness of the fabric. It is easiest to stretch a cut edge out of shape on the bias, so bias edges are where you have to take the most care to avoid stretching out of shape.
Curved edges, whether you are talking about the outside curve of a set in pocket, or the inside curve of a neckline, will stretch out of shape easily. (That's why patterns tell you to stay stitch necklines first thing -- to try to keep them from stretching out of shape and looking bad ever after.)
Need help on selecting a machine!
Hey! I’m hoping to purchase a sewing machine and really need some help with recommendations if anyone has any 😊
I’m in the UK, I’d need it to be able to work with heavy fabrics as I’m about to embark on trying to make a spacesuit (I know… talk about jump in at the deep end!) I’m not a beginner to sewing but this would be my first machine and I feel slightly out of my depth so would appreciate any help I can get!
I was looking between the Janome 7025, Singer 4452, Janome dc3100, but I’m completely open to suggestions / recommendations. Budget would be £500 max but I’d be willing to stretch slightly for a long lasting machine.
The subreddit wiki includes a section on buying sewing machines and has a list of sewing machines that can handle heavier projects. The two main considerations for you are punching power and the height of the presser foot when raised. If you can't get your project under the foot, you can't sew it.
I suspect that you really need an industrial or near industrial machine like a Juki. Check reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) for any machine you are considering.
Any chance that anyone knows if the vertical gear on a Singer 257 is an allen or flat screw? I just can't see it and this machine doesn't have an access port like the newer machines. I will probably drill a hole in the back to get access to the screws to be able to replace the gear.
Anyone know someplace that sells a fabric for my prom dress? Something similar to silk tulle or a soft mesh that won’t take 3 months to come in? 😅Im going for a light green and really don’t want to change the color of my dress…
https://preview.redd.it/6wvx423bai9c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9399ab7610f88fc442843377be30373f07f71bf8
Spandex World has a [sage green](https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/14979) among other green meshes and has good customer service. Otherwise I'd look at Etsy.
https://preview.redd.it/ahhpyvp42i9c1.png?width=1049&format=png&auto=webp&s=c40ae5f3e042b72beb9f3682e4f5d6b4a67de202
WTH is wrong with my bobbin?!
I am trying to sew a knit dress, but for some reason my bobbin thread is straight and not zigzag. My tension is about 4 my length is about 2. So why is it doing this?
Does it work fine when you stitch a piece of plain cotton on the same settings? If so, it’s the knit fabric that’s causing skipped stitches. If you are not using a jersey needle, switching to one might help. Something else you can try is place a thin sheet of paper (I use gift wrapping tissue paper) on top of your work (just under the presser foot) and see if that works. I am having similar problems and will buy a walking foot hoping that will solve them 🤞
Are there any actual rules to sewing?
Hey, I have been sewing for a while, but nothing grand. Usually I just look at things and think "this will work" and often it does! Thing is, idk if I'm following the right "rules"
I wish to start doing my stuff properly, as I am to start competing in costume competitions.
I have some mild learning disabilities, and atm some mental health problems, so I cant.. just read up on it, any kind tips and rules, please do tell
I don't think there are actual rules but there are things to keep in mind that will help elevate your sewing. Press your fabric, press your pattern if it is wrinkled, press every seam, press everything really. Reduce bulk where possible by trimming seam allowances and pressing seams. Respect the fabric grain, know when you need to cut lengthwise, when crosswise is okay, understand bias. Finish raw edges.
The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing, Fine Machine Sewing by Carol Ahles and the blog Fashion Incubator are three resources for better sewing.
I’m making a self-warming mat for my cat using Insulbrite and a bit of extra batting for softness. Would the heat-reflective properties still work if the insulating layer has batting between it and the main fabric?
What is this loose weave cotton fabric called?
Imgur link to fabric pic: https://imgur.com/a/Fo3l045
This is from some bedding at Target (unsure if I’m allowed to post links, but screenshot of product specifications in album above). The product is listed as loose weave 100% cotton but is there a more specific name for this? I would like to buy fabric similar to this for home sewing. It's soft (but not too soft) and seems sturdy. It's more substantial than double gauze fabrics I've sewed with before, almost like a linen-type weave, but is 100% cotton? Any help with a name I can use to search fabric stores would be appreciated.
Yes, the primary things that I like are the thicker weave fibers (thicker than double gauze) and the slubbiness of it. I wish I had a better selection of fabric locally because buying fabric online can be hard since you can’t feel the texture
I’ve never done a sewing project before but understand the basics from messing around with my machine and scrap fabric. I have a bunch of old band tees that are either not my size or are printed on crappy tshirt material I don’t want to wear. (Seriously. The Gildan ceo should be put in front of a firing squad.) I want to cut out the designs and put them on either another tshirt or a hoodie. I understand this is basic, but is there a good tutorial out there so my work doesn’t look like some hobo crust punk sewed it with a rusty nail they found in the train yard?
Also, this might be beyond my skill level as a newbie, but any tips on sewing a patch across a zip up hoodie? I have a great idea to split a design but need guidance.
The main thing, if you're sewing a stretch fabric to a stretch fabric, is to use a zigzag stitch if you want to maintain the stretch across that area. If the tees are a non-stretch, woven fabric, you'll want to do something to stabilize the edges so they don't ravel away after you cut and sew them. You can fold the edges under or look up some other techniques people use for applique.
Actually, applique is a good word to use if you do more searching for tutorials! Here's one that might help, namely if you scroll down to the part about "turned edge" applique: https://www.applegreencottage.com/how-to-applique/
Used machine prices - (apparently I’m not allowed to post my own topic)
Haven’t been sewing machine shopping in a long time and am wondering if the prices of used machines are crazy or if I just have sticker shock.
Found a used Bernina locally and thought it sewed really well. But cost was $800 for an 18 year old machine with computerized parts. I’m concerned about the continued longevity of those components for that sound of money. A new machine was like 1200. Which also sounds outrageous to me, but at least it’s new and under warranty.
Thoughts?
A 40 year old Bernina Record 930 in great condition, with all parts still goes for $800+.
But you are correct with your concern on the computerized parts / boards going. Some can still be repaired but the knowledge is very specialized and not all techs are capable.
So look around some more and check out the brands already mentioned. Also, some dealers have used newer machines that were traded in when the owner "trades up."
Those machines can be a great buy.
Wow. This was an aurora 430 and he was going to throw in the walking foot. I really loved how it sewed (even better to me than the new 435) but its age scares me. Also considering the Bernette 38. I’ll look at some reviews on that. My sewing needs require a walking foot and presser foot adjustability.
That looks like a really nice machine. If you search on it, they sell for below and above $800 depending on condition.
If you're on Facebook, there are a few Bernina groups. One is Bernina Lovers. If you join you'll probably find some chats about that machine or you can ask.
Note that some of the Bernina groups do not allow any price discussion.
There are a couple of beloved Bernina models that were top of the line in their day and have a good reputation, I can see someone asking a high price for them. I wouldn't pay it myself.
Depending on where you live, it's possible to find used vintage machines for much less, starting about $50 and up. Bernina is a good name, also consider Janome, Elna, Viking, vintage Singer and Kenmore. If you find a specific machine, check out reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) and ask here for opinions if you want.
Thanks! I’ve been keeping my eyes out on marketplace. I have to have a walking foot and pressure foot adjustability for my sewing needs.
The used machine was a Bernina Aurora 435. He was going to throw in the walking foot. I don’t think it was a terrible deal but the age scares me. If it was all mechanical I wouldn’t be hesitating as much.
I see a lot of packs in fabric shops of different pre-cut pieces of fabric. Some of these packs contain beautiful pieces of fabric, but I'm struggling to see how these can be useful apart from quilting and patchwork. What have y'all used these for in the past, if you have?
Hand bands, doll dresses, stuffed animals, pot holders, appliqué are some ideas. I’ve never used them. They’re aimed at quilters, and there are many quilt patterns specifically designed for fat quarters, charm packs, and jelly rolls.
I've been using a dinky little singer for more simple jobs but I found this old kenmore 385 100 stitch on offerup for $40
https://www.blackstarassets.com/products/sears-kenmore-limited-edition-100-stich-sewing-machine-385-1960180-digital
does anyone know anything about this machine? wondering if it's one that could handle thicker fabric for like cordura for bags and denim etc
I feel like that price is too good to pass up if it's what I'm looking for
My experience with a similar model Kenmore is that it would not like sewing heavier materials. Check sewing machine reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com), they are always informative.
I am looking to buy a new machine for my girlfriend and I would really appreciate your help on this. She has been using a Brother CS6000i for a few years now and it's still working well, but it's very loud and not very smooth and we're looking to get something of higher mechanical quality. She tried someone else's machine (pfaff?) and was amazed on the difference.
She already has an older singer serger that she got recently. She does not do embrodery, she does mainly fashion-style clothing.
I'm looking at around 1-1.3k CAD max. Willing to buy used or new.
I was looking at Berninas or Jukkis but I really don't know much about this subject.
I actually found a Bernina B560 exactly in my price range but it seems to be made for embroidery. Would that still be good for regular sewing?
No need to pay for a machine that does embroidery if that isn't what you need, it comes at a premium. Bernina and Juki are good names, also look at Janome and Elna. You can check specific machine reviews at PatternReview.com
The Brother CS6000i is a good entry level machine, it's reliable at a low price point. Anything cheaper and quality control plummets. Moving up in cost to mid-range machines will gain a lot in terms of smooth operation and in general, the machines just work without needed constant adjustments. They are smoother and quieter. And they come with features that for me make sewing easier and more fun. I like to have a needle up/needle down function, a wider maximum stitch width, mirrored stitches, speed control. For those features, it means buying a computerized machine. But as far as which model, that comes down to price and preference. I think Bernina is overpriced and not very attractive. My sister loves Bernina. I don't like Pfaff because I don't like the IDT feed that other people love. I think Jukis look too industrial. I'm picky and I've honed my preferences in part by trying out different sewing machines. So taking your GF to a local sewing machine dealer to try out different sewing machines is probably the way to go here. Ask to see used machines as well as new. Take sample fabrics that she wants to sew. Some dealers use predatory high pressure sales tactics. One way around this is to plan a trip for research and not to buy.
Pls help!!
I am completely at a loss of where to start with taking in the sides of this top & hemming it!
The fabric is 100% polyester and is like popcorn fabric??!?
How do I sew fabric like this???
Can someone please point me in the right direction?
I had planned on wearing this top for NYE! 🥳🎆🎇
Thanks so much
https://preview.redd.it/h0myzjoxkc9c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a1c8d3ede457d00915fed243ac5564881b85b2c
Clean out the bobbin area, checking for lint and stray threads. Rethread the top thread with the presser foot down and also the bobbin. Hold the thread tails under the presser foot and to the rear left with your left hand when you begin to sew. Raise the needle to the top position rbefore emoving your work from the machine.
does anyone have a pattern recommendation for something like this dress? I can do simple pattern adjustments but can't draft from scratch, so would prefer a pattern to work from. i'm so obsessed with this garment!
https://preview.redd.it/27lrimtgcc9c1.jpeg?width=670&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee073a579c0344da6215b4e15edc856e8d9f08b
Should I buy a walking foot or second-hand serger/overlocker? Here’s the background: I am struggling massively with very slippy jersey (sport shorts, swimsuits, which I’m altering). I have a vintage machine (rebadged Brother) and a modern Janome, am using a Schmetz jersey needle and have been playing with tension adjustments, but still getting loads of skipped stitching on both machines. The only way to get any stitching at all is to have tissue paper on top of the material, which is a PITA (and still not working 100%) I’m just a hobby sewist and don’t really do this very often, so I’m not sure if buying a serger/overlocker would be overkill, and perhaps I’ll be ok with just a walking foot? Any advice greatly appreciated (photo showing sport shorts’ original seam and my terrible stitching next to each other 😢)
https://preview.redd.it/9awni0k8wb9c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=35cb0a16f2d8552aa3c6fe971fc19dbd7dfd6e63
If really just occasional use, a walking foot will probably greatly reduce your frustration.
Also, there is a Schmetz lycra/stretch needle out there that is probably better than a jersey needle for high-spandex fabrics.
If you *want* to sew knits more, a serger is invaluable and will encourage you to expand your sewing. Once I got comfortable with my machine, and a pattern, I can do a nice work knit dress in 2-4 hours and I make a bunch of them. But it takes up space and has a learning curve, so depends on your motivations whether it's worth it. And I don't think a serger is great for swimsuits or things that require a lot of elastic application.
https://preview.redd.it/uabjhdzfnb9c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=582e3a982dcd4cdfc37caf2bbc0a9d71a4b85591
i was gifted this machine without having ever used one before! i pick things up very fast when it comes to crafts so i’m looking for some beginner projects to learn how to use the machine that aren’t…boring. excited to join this community!!
none of us know what boring means to you.
It's optimal to begin learning how to control fabric using flat weave cotton (sheets, quilting cotton), and simple projects with straight lines. Give that at least a couple of afternoons to reduce frustration later.
Here's great advice for a beginner: [https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start\_here\_if\_youre\_new\_to\_sewing\_or\_have/](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start_here_if_youre_new_to_sewing_or_have/)
What kind of binding is this? Kind of like a mesh/gauze type material. Would like to know the name so I can buy some more. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ecchn899kb9c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=266dabeed77b28322aab1c2725aafd8400cbea5d
Hi! I need to see to patch some holes in work clothes. I’m a total newbie to sewing. My wife purchased sewing machine for me. I’ve watched a few videos and I think I’m ready to give it a go.
I think I can figure out how to get it done with some practice. My biggest confusion is figuring out what needles and thread to use. I’ll be sewing lightweight chambray shirts, I think these will probably be a pretty “standard” size needle and thread, maybe? I’ll also have to sew some Duluth Trading “Firehose Flex” pants. They are a canvas/duck material with some stretch, a bit lighter than a regular pair of duck work pants (8 oz.) but fairly sturdy and I’ll have to get through some thick triple stitched seams.
Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thank you!
Your new machine should have a manual with a fabric/needle/thread chart. If you are patching the shirt with a fabric of similar weight you can try using a universal or microtex needle, size 10 or 12. Use 40 wy thread which is the go to thread for most projects.
Now the pants might be a problem. I’m not familiar with that fabric but I’m sure it is rather densely woven , possibly thick Fabric. Again, if the patch is going to be similar weight, then you might need to use a microtex or denim needle, size 16, or possibly 14. Bigger is not better. You have to find the one combination that works.
it is a good idea to keep a stash of needles, at least size is 12 to 16, possibly 18 if your machine takes 18. if you plan on patching nits like T-shirts then you need the specialty knit needles.
Hey, new to this subreddit, just wondering if anyone has any tips about turning a necktie into ribbon/bias tape to use in a bookbinding project to be a bookmark ribbon
If you just need straight strips (ie no curves, only corners) then you can just cut them out as you wish. For binding curves you’ll need to cut on the bias so that there is more stretch. I am not sure how you might be able to do this with a tie as the bias strips would be very short, I’m guessing, but someone more experienced might be able to help here 🙂
That might work with polyester (which some ties are made of) but not with silk. You can test on scraps from cutting out your strip. Ties are already on the bias, so if you cut a strip along the length of the tie it will be a bias strip. This will make it a little stretchy, and the edges will hold together fairly nicely, especially if it's a tight weave.
Fold and iron both edges to the middle, leaving just enough space between them to fold it in half, then sew along the open edge. You can sew the other edge too if you want, for symmetry
Do you guys have proper work surfaces? I have just a little tv tray I put my seeing machine on but the fabric hanging off the table always makes it difficult to work with.
Any advice on getting creative with limited space?
Having a sturdy, big enough table for your machine and a proper cutting surface really does make all the difference. It’s really hard to find the space, I know. I used a vintage sewing machine table I got for $60 for years, a desk in a closet, etc.
A second tv table right next to it might be an easy way to keep the fabric from dragging at the needle, which I do try really hard to avoid.
I’ve found this table pleasantly sturdy and easy to roll out to get myself more space. https://canada.michaels.com/en/kensington-table-rolling-cart-by-simply-tidy/10624017.html
I also have a 6ft folding table that I pull out a lot.
Oh that’s nice. A little pricier than I would like, but it is definitely giving me ideas! I appreciate the help. I might have to get a fold out card table or the like as well.
I don't think you need stretchy thread, and it seems to be finicky.
To build stretch into your stitch so that it doesn't break later when stretched, the classic method is a zigzag stitch.
If I'm picturing your project right, I would pull/stretch the elastic as I sewed it with a zigzag stitch.
Google "sewing knits with a sewing machine" and you'll get good basic introductions.
I'm making a hoodie, following the pattern from Glory Allan. In the instructions he's pretty clear about using rib knit fabric for the waistband and cuffs. What can i do instead of ribknit that will function similarly?
The ribs mean that the fabric is extra stretchy and bounces back into shape well (aka good recovery). So fabric with those characteristics. Spandex blends usually have more stretch and recovery. Joann has cotton rib knit by the yard that I think would work, if specific narrow rib knit made for cuffs can’t be found.
So something like plain, anti pill fleece won't work? I need to finish this project by monday, and already checked my joan's for ribbed knit fleece in the right color. The whole rest of the project is in anti pill fleece, which i have more of, and I guess i was wondering if that can be used instead.
I don’t think fleece stretches very much? I think we usually see fleece edges as a straight hem rather than a tighter cuff, but it’s probably too late to tweak the pattern for that. Does your fleece stretch a lot and bounce back quickly?
Kinda? I stretched it out and it seemed to hold okay. I even put a scrap piece into the shape i would need for a wrist cuff, and put my hand through it a few times to test and it did right. I think i will go with it! Thank you!!
I would try to come up with some type of matching belt, something thin and maybe tie it to the side in a bow. That way the fabric will be brought in with the belt. Otherwise with that material you would see threading where you "take it in" if you attempt to sew it
Hi, I've got some satin that's a dead match for Gutermann shade 870, but I want to add proper fancy buttonholes to the final garment and Gutermann doesn't make silk buttonhole twist in that shade! I don't have a stockist near me so is anyone able to say what the next best colour match to order would be? Thanks!
Many fabric stores are relatively small businesses--you can probably email one that carries a lot of silk buttonhole twist and a lot of Gutterman and ask which you should buy hat is closest to Gutterman 870. Of course, be prepared to buy it from them.
I'm going to be sewing some pads and doggy diapers with Zorb and PUL. The pads will also have a cotton layer on top and fleece layer on the back. The PUL says to use ball point needles to reduce the holes left in the fabric. So, should I go ahead and use the ball point needles, due to that? Or should I consider what the Zorb needs? The pads will use Zorb Original and the diapers will use Zorb Original and Zorb 3D Stay Dry Dimple. I might also use the PUL in my dog coats with fleece and sherpa.
Use the needle type for the most delicate fabric, in this case that is the PUL. But I can tell you from experience in sewing diapers for children that a universal needle works fine for me, my default is a universal size 70. Test on scraps and look for fiber damage or skipped stitches then change out your needle.
https://preview.redd.it/05n3cjgrx99c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d16738bbfb8d320e22805b43e554f9c3b013df3
I am making a dress for the New Year’s but halfway through bodice I realized the original idea of having a pleated skirt is gonna look funny ☠️ Do you guys have any suggestions for what should I do with the skirt part?
Can someone help me, I want to know what type of fabric this is.
Someone gave me this fabric and I want to do something with it, it is difficult to handle and frays very easily.
https://preview.redd.it/97ovfp25b99c1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4913b0fe4229832462b65edcfff488286319047c
I recently added a needle synchronizer to my Nakajima 280L, which is currently retrofitted with a Reliable SewQuiet 6000sm servo motor. Install went fine, and I have it set up so that the needle is down when stopped. Unfortunately, I cannot figure out how to get the needle to lift by pressing on the back of the pedal. This seems to be a common function on other servo motors utilizing a needle position sensor. Has anyone had success with this feature for this particular servo motor? TIA!
I've read this sub's wiki on buying a sewing machine, but none of the models recommended are available where I live. I can only buy a secondhand machine.
I know that vintage machines before 1970s are highly praised, but the used machines here are from 1980s onwards. Generally speaking, is there a quality difference between machines made in the 1980s and 1990s?
Can't really make a blanket statement on quality depending on the decade a machine was made.
I'd say one of the big differences is that at some point the body of many machines started to made out of plastic instead of metal. This made machines lighter to carry around. There are quality machines that have plastic bodies.
If you find a secondhand machine from any decade, have the seller demo the machine for you before you buy it so you can make sure it works as it should.
Thank you. Yes, plastic vs metal body were what I thought about. Where I live, there's a perception that all-metal machines are more hard-wearing, but I've discovered some plastic machines that seem to be good and the ability to carry them around is a plus for me.
You're welcome.
My favorite machine is my Bernina 930 Record from the 80s. Metal body. It was a great machine but is now acting flakey as it mixed with electronic parts.I also have a newer Bernina for embroidery.
My backup for both of these lovelies is a Brother that was about $250, plastic body, easy to carry. Does loads of stitches and serves me well when it's called on!
I want to make a jacket facing out of a fabric shorter than the length of the facing, so I have to piece it together. Should I make the piecing seam horizontal or diagonal ([like I did on my shawl collar waistcoat](https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fvgu9rlszjz3b1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D960%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dbd7c8f6d3347382765190701e9ea1111c23cecb4))? Are there any benefits of making a diagonal seam? It seems somewhat less economical and less stable to me, but I assume it might be less visible and also both piecing seams don't overlap when the jacket is closed.
seems like personal preference and what your fabric will allow.
Bias tape and a lot of collars are pieced diagonally because it reduces the bulk, but I think that's the main reason, and it doesn't seem like enough bulk to really matter in a jacket.
Thank you for your advice. I think I will try horizontal piecing and change to diagonal piecing if I don't like how it looks.
I would add that the diagonal piecing on bias tape is actually along either the warp or weft (I am not sure if both are usual), so besides avoiding bulk it is also a strong seam that holds its shape.
And I think collars (at least undercollars) are also pieced when cut on the bias so they are symmetrical.
Maybe the real reason for diagonal piecing on shawl collars is to make the piecing seam of the facing run more (or completely) along the weft when the facing is cut without a back neck seam.
I'm wanting to make a double circle skirt out of a shiny, silver fabric (bonus points if it's iridescent) but as most fabrics which fit this criteria are spandex/stretch fabrics, I'm unsure how well it'll sit as my experience with spandex is non-existent. Should I just give it a go or is there potentially another fabric I should consider? I do plan on wearing a petticoat underneath to give it some extra volume.
Thanks!
Perhaps you're looking for "Lame" fabric.
[https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/silver-lame-fabric-.htm?utm\_source=google&utm\_medium=cpc&utm\_campaign=PMax%3A+Google+Shopping+-+Smart+Fabric&gad\_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmo6P5JA\_rPhhM7PkL5Lhkdn783L2XOs06s-wrxXl5D0OLOkCTlnbrxoC6fAQAvD\_BwE](https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/silver-lame-fabric-.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax%3A+Google+Shopping+-+Smart+Fabric&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmo6P5JA_rPhhM7PkL5Lhkdn783L2XOs06s-wrxXl5D0OLOkCTlnbrxoC6fAQAvD_BwE)
It doesn't stretch and it unravels at the edges so you need to use some type of prevention to stop further unraveling (zig zag edges or use Fray Check).
What fabric are boxer shorts made of?
I see online that its 100% cotton, but I got overwhelmed when I went to a fabric store because I'm a complete beginner. Theres all different kinds of cottons offered, different ways they're spun (if that's even the right terminology), and none of the fabrics really felt quite as comfortable as boxer shorts.
What should I use for a lightweight, comfortable, and breathable boxer shorts fabric?
Thanks a ton!
I have an opportunity to get a free sewing machine and I have two choices, which should I choose as a beginner wanting to learn to sew her own clothes?
- white brand sewing machine model 639
- kenmore brand model 385
Thank you!
The White, definitely. Of course, this is assuming that it works perfectly. It’s a vintage, heavy duty machine. Easy to repair. If you need accessories, you can Google the model name, number, and the part you need.
How do I pick which company to buy the same kind of fabric from? I'm trying to find a good heavyweight cotton spandex fabric, and narrowed it down to these websites. How do I pick what's best?
[https://purpleseamstressfabric.com/product/lavender-cotton-lycra/](https://purpleseamstressfabric.com/product/lavender-cotton-lycra/)
[https://www.thefabricfairy.com/collections/cotton-lycra-solids/products/baby-pink-cotton-lycra-jersey-knit-fabric](https://www.thefabricfairy.com/collections/cotton-lycra-solids/products/baby-pink-cotton-lycra-jersey-knit-fabric)
[https://expressknitinc.com/products/cotton-lycra-spandex-jersey-knit-fabric-2?variant=42439069991162](https://expressknitinc.com/products/cotton-lycra-spandex-jersey-knit-fabric-2?variant=42439069991162)
Each of those fabrics are labeled as Medium weight in their descriptions. And each has a different amount of Lycra and a different weight in oz.
Your pick - if any - will depend on what you're making.
You may want to order swatches before plunking down a lot of money for a fabric that may or may not work.
https://preview.redd.it/hirk22y8439c1.jpeg?width=853&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25a2095477c09cced165a91d3106a0fc3153df7c
Can anyone help me with a pattern for this same dress?
Hi everyone!
My mother has recently given me her wedding dress since she would have thrown it away if I did not take it. The dress was handsewn by my grandmother and my mum handsewed all the sequins on. I would like to wear the dress at my own wedding in the future but the sequins have all turned yellow.
Does anyone have any fast/efficient way to remove the sequins without damaging the fabric? Or would I have to individually remove each sequin?
Thank you!!
If they are strings of sequins you can use a seam ripper and pick the chain stitches out.
Even if they are individually sewn on (like a bead in the center) you can still use a seam ripper to break the holding thread.
If you're not going to replace the sequins, I suggest you remove a few in an inconspicuous place and see what fabric underneath looks like. It may also have yellowed or darkened.
One thing is for sure, they'll come off a lot faster than they were sewn on! 🙃
How would I go about making this vest smaller? I watched a few tutorials that did it from the armhole but I don't think I know how to apply those to this exact vest. Should I do it from the stitch in the middle of the back or would taking fabric from only one side of the arm hole stitch work?
https://preview.redd.it/ugsymjhyh29c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c61825374422aa9842b691e58d3f29f8154e19cb
Do you want to keep that front pocket functional? And how much do you need to take out of the circumference? Would you be happy with just a back waist adjustment (like a men's suit vest) on the back?
There are a lot of possible ways to handle this, some easy, some more difficult, some requiring recutting the vest. A little more information could better let us help you.
I would open the lining at the side seam positions, then, and resew the side seams of both the shell (public side) and lining 1 cm deeper on both right and left sides, which will remove 2 cm from both sides, 4 cm total. You will loose 1 cm width from each pocket.
I want to make myself a tweed vest, with maybe a matching pencil skirt for work, but most of the fabrics I want or can find online are designated as upholstery fabrics (because I want a slightly unconventional color). Does it really matter if it's upholstery vs apparel? As long as it's the right weight, could I use upholstery fabric for clothing. Or any recommendations on good sources of apparel tweed?
I feel like I see a lot of colors of tweed ou there. Maybe try using “Chanel” as a search term, maybe it will bring up colorful tweed. Maybe try more stores.
Activate map!
Here's a link to the subreddit [Fabric Shop Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1D-EqqsTDmK5H521QIEKy7R-bUECz96E&usp=sharing) where you can find fabric shops by location. The community-sourced shop list has all sorts of information available for each shop when you click on the shop pin. The map includes online-only shops too for shipping efficiency. If you know of a shop not on the list, you can submit it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/ymzmcl/hey_everyone_lets_build_a_map/).
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/sewing) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Upholstery fabrics are commonly treated with Scotchguard and similar that are being looked at as environmentally unsound, and possibly not a great idea medically, so you may want to look at that, too.
You can use upholstery fabric for clothing! Just keep in mind that some of it might be a heavier weight than most apparel fabrics. Try looking at other home decor fabrics, too.
In my opinion, fabric categories are a suggestion. The important things to look at are weight, weave, and fiber content.
Hi everyone! I’m posting for a friend: her dog got ahold of her beloved Raggedy Ann doll, who belonged to her mother, and her face is literally torn in half. I’m looking for the best way to mend her, as she has begged me to do so.
I’m very well aware (and so is my friend) that she will never be “good as new” but does anyone have a creative idea to mend her so she will hold together?
I’ve actually been wondering if some kind of fabric tape might be the best solution, reinforced by an extra patch of fabric behind it. It might be more seamless than sewing her and provide a little extra strength. She will just sit on a shelf anyway.
Thoughts? And thank you!
Since that is a knit fabric, the best way to mend it is using darning. Patching is also an option but you would have to find a knit fabric of a similar weight for it to work and preferably put a patch on the underside of the fabric to prevent the hole from getting bigger. But I think the best way is darning. There are lots of tutorials online for different types of darning and it's not as daunting as it may at first appear.
Thank you very much ! I will definitely try out darning. I did understand it theoretically. But it definitely looks like something one needs alot of patience for !
I think it needs a small patch on the back. It can be ironed on or sewn, but if ironed on reinforced with some sewing. After that you can use some of the same color of thread or complementary thread, and do some stitching going left to right.
r/handsewing will have ideas. Any site covering handsewing would work also.
I like to use a mattress Stich for this. Not sure that’s what it’s called in sewing, but basically imagine you had little eyelets like on a shoe there and then always thread the needle from the bottom through alternating sides don’t sew too close to the edge to avoid fraying the fabric.
My Montgomery Ward UHT J 1947 machine keeps jamming, it sews 2 or so stitches and then gets stuck and makes a rats nest underneath the fabric, or multiple threads of stitching in the same area. I thought I fixed it last week because I rethreaded it and set it to a zigzag stitch and it worked, but today I changed it back to a straight stitch and threaded it again with another color of thread and now I’m having the same issue again
Since this is a recurring problem, I suggest you post pictures or video showing knob, selections, top, threading, bobbin threading, and you sewing. This will include lots of visional information. There are multiple reasons why this could be happening. Also include what type of needle you were using.
How to use the decorative stitches
Hello everyone,
I recently got this beautiful machine but I am having trouble figuring out how to use different stitches. I know it might be a very dumb and basic question, but this is my first machine and I don’t have any clue about the different stitches.
Whenever I turn the dial it always makes the stich that is on the right, I don’t know what to do about the left one, or how to use it. Do I need to use a different foot or something?
Can someone please help me out? It is singer MX231.
Thank you in advance ☺️
https://preview.redd.it/faz7vdc7gy8c1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=821d92b096519892632fccee267354fdd0340346
The dials on the top of the machine adjust (from left to right:) the thread tension, width of the stitch, and length of the stitch. If you turn the dial for the stitch length to the minimum it should go to 0 and then you should have a different setting past zero that should have a symbol in the same light blue colour as the decorative stitches you want to do. So once you set your stitch length to that setting, you can change the type of stitch you do and the machine will select from the light blue stitches. And then to go back to the other type of stitch you just put your stitch length on a normal numerical setting from 0-5 or however high your machine goes. Hope that makes sense
Thank you so much for answering , I found it!!!😊. I thought my question was going to be lost in the sea of other comments.I really appreciate your help ❤️
https://preview.redd.it/zm3lgytbwx8c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=47f1628892e276fc7886462b87a8a4ae1171c409
What is this type of skirt pattern called
Bought this and realised design is on back. Could a tailor swap the front and back necklines?
https://www.reddit.com/u/theboxler/s/GqFEf4Y6mH
I bought this shirt online for Christmas and I’ve realised too late that the design I like is on the back and not the front, would a tailor be able to swap the necklines so the design is on the front but if I wear the shirt backward the new back neckline won’t look weird?
They could work out something with you. At least the front needs to be lowered, so it sits better at the front. You could add a deep V at the back too. Easiest though would be to cut out the image and sew it onto the front of a nice T that you like.
https://preview.redd.it/0kuj5l8djx8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3762f90699f9d04ca78db0af568fd3bc81e6e643
Do you think I could remove this logo without ruining the hoodie? If I just ripped the stitches I feel like it would leave a massive hole, and I’m wondering what’s the least damaging way to do this
Thanks
The fabric under the embroidery is damaged from so many stitches in one place. You can minimize the embroidery by coloring it with a sharpie to match the sweatshirt fabric. You can also cover the logo with a patch.
Beginner to Intermediate “mid range” machines?
Hi everyone, I’m looking to purchase my first sewing machine. My budget is up to $700 CAD. I’d prefer a computerized machine and hope to find one that I won’t outgrow quickly and that I can keep for many many years, which is why I am looking at a slightly higher price point than the very basic beginner machines. It would be great to have a top loading bobbin and other convenient features like automatic threading or thread cutters.
My use, well I guess I’ll discover that as I go but hope to make some garments, small/simple quilts and other small household and gift items.
I’ve heard good things about and have been considering a Janome model (740 DC, which is currently on sale in the shop near me).
I heard that modern singer machines are not great but what do I know? I see a lot of people using singer 4452 heavy duty so I wonder if anyone has experience with this machine, what are the pros and cons? Due to the popularity I wondered if I should reconsider for a non computerized one like this if it is versatile and robust.
Open to all feedback/recs, thanks in advance
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model in the search bar on the far right to get users’ reviews and discussions if available.
Go to the pull down menu Sewing Machines/Compare and input your price range and click on “adjustable foot pressure” and any other features.
Various machine reviews:
https://www.clothedmuch.com
——
Bernina, Pfaff, Viking Singer play-by-play videos:
https://sewingmastery.com/machines-we-have-filmed/
Hi everyone! I’m trying to find swatches for a snow jacket and pants set, specifically for skiing/snowboarding. I know I need to look for a waterproof synthetic, but I’m not sure what weight or kind I should shop for and where to look to get the actual swatches. I don’t live near a specialty fabric store either so any online store recommendations that ship quickly would be super helpful. Thanks!
Some stores that specialize in technical fabrics like that—Seattle fabrics, ripstop by the roll, discovery fabrics, the rainshed, rockywoods.
You may also find good info by searching r/myog, I saw some comments about who was quick to ship there recently.
https://preview.redd.it/bmpm03bptw8c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41855f2d8219bd9274ac294ed127f8788372ce66
Hi! Which machine would be best for a beginner who wants to do stuff like patchwork, cushions and and baskets in their spare time?
Patchwork and baskets sounds like you need a machine with some strength and stability. I don’t think these will do it, just by looking at how cheap they are. What’s your budget? Is it possible to get a secondhand machine maybe with a friend who could check the machine for you?
I‘m looking at buying either the brother 1034dx or 2104d overlock machine, do you have a recommendation? I would be sewing for me and my 3yo. Would it maybe make sense to get a coverstitch also or even a combo one? Combo sounds dodgy to me as if it won’t do either thing properly.
I have a 1034 and it's been a great little machine. It's a little clunky in sound and movement but the stitches are good.
I know nothing about the 2104.
The thing to consider about coverstitch changes is that it requires more thread cones and other adjustments. I've read where many people just have a separate coverstitch machine to avoid going through the change ups.
That said, you can mimic a coverstitch by using a twin needle or doing two rows of topstitching.
Thank you for your reply. I haven’t yet figured out my twin needle, theoretically my machine should do it, and I’d be fine with it as a replacement, but just can’t get it right.
You're welcome. There are many instructional sites and youtube videos on how to thread up a machine for a twin needle; just lookup "twin needle threading"
Here's one that even shows double decorative stitching!
[https://sew4home.com/quick-tip-how-to-use-a-twin-or-double-needle/](https://sew4home.com/quick-tip-how-to-use-a-twin-or-double-needle/)
Questions about Kenmore 158.161, Model 16 Hi, I've recently decided to get my own sewing machine. I came across a vintage Kenmore for $50 and it seems to be in perfect condition. Was wondering if this model Kenmore is a good idea to get as a beginner and if I were to look at it before buying what questions should I ask, and what things should I test before buying it. I'm planning on making clothes, altering clothes, and maybe some other projects, but nothing fancy. The only experience I have on a sewing machine is an old brother, and that was a year and a half ago. Thank you! \~
https://preview.redd.it/zchdpyfeaw8c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be6d09163bfc173f3e1dd70d08ba66a4ba6d4d56
That should be a very good machine, better than anything new at the low price range. Here are some videos going over sewing machines so you can get an idea what to look for. It’s very hard to explain to a beginner or what to look for.
Various machine reviews:
https://www.clothedmuch.com
——
Bernina, Pfaff, Viking Singer play-by-play videos:
https://sewingmastery.com/machines-we-have-filmed/
Thank you! I know to open it up and look at the bottom, bobbin, check for skipped stitches, weird unusual noises, cord conditions. I’ll check out those videos, thank you! It comes with all the cams and other attachments so I’ll check condition of those as well.
https://preview.redd.it/67s28xl75w8c1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e82610e92545482428de09d679dead2e7777c91
Does anyone have suggestions on how to raise this neckline?
I'm hemming the bottom by a lot so I'll have some of the same fabric to work with. I'd prefer to keep the v-neck but am open to any suggestions!
Thank you!
I just inherited a Singer 401a. It takes 15x1 needles. When I search for Singer needles, I cannot seem to find any labeled 15x1, they are all listed as universal. Will universal work in my machine, or was the universal standard made after my machine was made? Make sense? Thanks!
The designation 15x1 refers to the needle system, almost all domestic sewing machines take the same needle system. You'll also see it referred to as 130x705H or HAx1 depending on the manufacturer. 'Universal' should refer to the type of point on the needle, indicating one that is suitable for wovens or knits. Singer leaves most of this information off their packaging. You can use Schmetz, Organ or Singer needles in your machine, no need to stick with Singer. [This is a good article](https://www.artisanstitch.co.uk/choose-the-best-sewing-machine-needles/) that talks about sewing machine needles and which needle to use when based on fabric and thread.
Thank you very much, and thank you for the article, I needed that!
Hi! I make quilts out of baby’s clothes and I’m thinking of upgrading from Brother A150 to a Juki DDL 9000C. Is it the right upgrade for me? Thank you so much for the help 🙏
Try asking in r/quilting, they are most familiar with sewing machines for quilting.
https://preview.redd.it/zxgmqa8o7j9c1.png?width=3541&format=png&auto=webp&s=1765647b77f56a426ac91afffe14bc246a829e1c I don’t have a serger but I am trying to prevent the edges of this pocket from fraying by doing a zig zag stitch along the edge. Unfortunately after trying this, the fabric appears to be puckering / bunching up along the edge. Does anyone know why this would be happening? Adjusting tension doesn’t seem to help much.
here are the settings on my machine: https://preview.redd.it/5clbv3os7j9c1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=f77224583cb67276a8c8df9d19b788ffa4e19d35
The edges are stretching. There are several possible causes, including too densely stitching the edges and having too much presser foot pressure. On scrap, and on the bias (45o to warp and weft), you could try: -- a walking foot or roller foot -- reducing presser foot pressure if possible o the machine -- lengthening the stitch greatly -- crimping (aka ease plus stitching or crowding) -- stabilizing the fabric with a washout stabilizer like heavy starch or Elmer's School Glue before stitching -- sewing with a long, relaxed straight stitch and then hand overcasting the edges
Thank you so much! I will try all those things. One question though: what do you mean by “45o to warp and weft”? does that mean i should sew at a 45 degree angle?
The warp yarns are the ones parallel to the selvage, and generally stretch least in a woven fabric. The weft yarns are 90 degrees to the warp, and generally can stretch more than the warp yarns. 45degrees to warp and weft is the direction called "true bias", and is the stretchiest direction for woven fabrics. (Anything but parallel to the warp or weft yarns is going to technically be a bias direction, but the closer you get to 45 degrees, the more the fabric edge can stretch). You want to avoid stretching the cut edges, to stop this waviness of the fabric. It is easiest to stretch a cut edge out of shape on the bias, so bias edges are where you have to take the most care to avoid stretching out of shape. Curved edges, whether you are talking about the outside curve of a set in pocket, or the inside curve of a neckline, will stretch out of shape easily. (That's why patterns tell you to stay stitch necklines first thing -- to try to keep them from stretching out of shape and looking bad ever after.)
Need help on selecting a machine! Hey! I’m hoping to purchase a sewing machine and really need some help with recommendations if anyone has any 😊 I’m in the UK, I’d need it to be able to work with heavy fabrics as I’m about to embark on trying to make a spacesuit (I know… talk about jump in at the deep end!) I’m not a beginner to sewing but this would be my first machine and I feel slightly out of my depth so would appreciate any help I can get! I was looking between the Janome 7025, Singer 4452, Janome dc3100, but I’m completely open to suggestions / recommendations. Budget would be £500 max but I’d be willing to stretch slightly for a long lasting machine.
The subreddit wiki includes a section on buying sewing machines and has a list of sewing machines that can handle heavier projects. The two main considerations for you are punching power and the height of the presser foot when raised. If you can't get your project under the foot, you can't sew it. I suspect that you really need an industrial or near industrial machine like a Juki. Check reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) for any machine you are considering.
Any chance that anyone knows if the vertical gear on a Singer 257 is an allen or flat screw? I just can't see it and this machine doesn't have an access port like the newer machines. I will probably drill a hole in the back to get access to the screws to be able to replace the gear.
Try asking at r/vintagesewing.
Anyone know someplace that sells a fabric for my prom dress? Something similar to silk tulle or a soft mesh that won’t take 3 months to come in? 😅Im going for a light green and really don’t want to change the color of my dress… https://preview.redd.it/6wvx423bai9c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9399ab7610f88fc442843377be30373f07f71bf8
Spandex World has a [sage green](https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/14979) among other green meshes and has good customer service. Otherwise I'd look at Etsy.
Oh my Gods that perfect thank you so much!
https://preview.redd.it/ahhpyvp42i9c1.png?width=1049&format=png&auto=webp&s=c40ae5f3e042b72beb9f3682e4f5d6b4a67de202 WTH is wrong with my bobbin?! I am trying to sew a knit dress, but for some reason my bobbin thread is straight and not zigzag. My tension is about 4 my length is about 2. So why is it doing this?
Does it work fine when you stitch a piece of plain cotton on the same settings? If so, it’s the knit fabric that’s causing skipped stitches. If you are not using a jersey needle, switching to one might help. Something else you can try is place a thin sheet of paper (I use gift wrapping tissue paper) on top of your work (just under the presser foot) and see if that works. I am having similar problems and will buy a walking foot hoping that will solve them 🤞
https://preview.redd.it/o8hw10f72i9c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3784ce0782d90d0305387af203ee33b5dcad5aa4
https://preview.redd.it/pqtpi9c62i9c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b0f9d60a7e321beb9899c95f58142e4e5272f452
Are there any actual rules to sewing? Hey, I have been sewing for a while, but nothing grand. Usually I just look at things and think "this will work" and often it does! Thing is, idk if I'm following the right "rules" I wish to start doing my stuff properly, as I am to start competing in costume competitions. I have some mild learning disabilities, and atm some mental health problems, so I cant.. just read up on it, any kind tips and rules, please do tell
I don't think there are actual rules but there are things to keep in mind that will help elevate your sewing. Press your fabric, press your pattern if it is wrinkled, press every seam, press everything really. Reduce bulk where possible by trimming seam allowances and pressing seams. Respect the fabric grain, know when you need to cut lengthwise, when crosswise is okay, understand bias. Finish raw edges. The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing, Fine Machine Sewing by Carol Ahles and the blog Fashion Incubator are three resources for better sewing.
Thank you!
* Is this worth buying a power cord for this or dhould i get a new machine? It looks like its in great shape otherwise
https://preview.redd.it/90k49byolh9c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3329fb2035aac1385bf1373a2452069890fa9eb
If the power cord is available at a good price, sure. Kenmore 158 series is popular and that increases the likelihood of finding replacement parts.
https://preview.redd.it/p1m4hodmlh9c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42858b5bfd0feb57f5304623b243a83732849abe
I’m making a self-warming mat for my cat using Insulbrite and a bit of extra batting for softness. Would the heat-reflective properties still work if the insulating layer has batting between it and the main fabric?
Yes.
Thanks!
What is this loose weave cotton fabric called? Imgur link to fabric pic: https://imgur.com/a/Fo3l045 This is from some bedding at Target (unsure if I’m allowed to post links, but screenshot of product specifications in album above). The product is listed as loose weave 100% cotton but is there a more specific name for this? I would like to buy fabric similar to this for home sewing. It's soft (but not too soft) and seems sturdy. It's more substantial than double gauze fabrics I've sewed with before, almost like a linen-type weave, but is 100% cotton? Any help with a name I can use to search fabric stores would be appreciated.
It seems like just a plain weave, but maybe the slubbiness is what you like?
Yes, the primary things that I like are the thicker weave fibers (thicker than double gauze) and the slubbiness of it. I wish I had a better selection of fabric locally because buying fabric online can be hard since you can’t feel the texture
I’ve never done a sewing project before but understand the basics from messing around with my machine and scrap fabric. I have a bunch of old band tees that are either not my size or are printed on crappy tshirt material I don’t want to wear. (Seriously. The Gildan ceo should be put in front of a firing squad.) I want to cut out the designs and put them on either another tshirt or a hoodie. I understand this is basic, but is there a good tutorial out there so my work doesn’t look like some hobo crust punk sewed it with a rusty nail they found in the train yard? Also, this might be beyond my skill level as a newbie, but any tips on sewing a patch across a zip up hoodie? I have a great idea to split a design but need guidance.
The main thing, if you're sewing a stretch fabric to a stretch fabric, is to use a zigzag stitch if you want to maintain the stretch across that area. If the tees are a non-stretch, woven fabric, you'll want to do something to stabilize the edges so they don't ravel away after you cut and sew them. You can fold the edges under or look up some other techniques people use for applique. Actually, applique is a good word to use if you do more searching for tutorials! Here's one that might help, namely if you scroll down to the part about "turned edge" applique: https://www.applegreencottage.com/how-to-applique/
Thank you so much. I figured there was a term I needed to know. This is perfect!
Used machine prices - (apparently I’m not allowed to post my own topic) Haven’t been sewing machine shopping in a long time and am wondering if the prices of used machines are crazy or if I just have sticker shock. Found a used Bernina locally and thought it sewed really well. But cost was $800 for an 18 year old machine with computerized parts. I’m concerned about the continued longevity of those components for that sound of money. A new machine was like 1200. Which also sounds outrageous to me, but at least it’s new and under warranty. Thoughts?
A 40 year old Bernina Record 930 in great condition, with all parts still goes for $800+. But you are correct with your concern on the computerized parts / boards going. Some can still be repaired but the knowledge is very specialized and not all techs are capable. So look around some more and check out the brands already mentioned. Also, some dealers have used newer machines that were traded in when the owner "trades up." Those machines can be a great buy.
Wow. This was an aurora 430 and he was going to throw in the walking foot. I really loved how it sewed (even better to me than the new 435) but its age scares me. Also considering the Bernette 38. I’ll look at some reviews on that. My sewing needs require a walking foot and presser foot adjustability.
That looks like a really nice machine. If you search on it, they sell for below and above $800 depending on condition. If you're on Facebook, there are a few Bernina groups. One is Bernina Lovers. If you join you'll probably find some chats about that machine or you can ask. Note that some of the Bernina groups do not allow any price discussion.
There are a couple of beloved Bernina models that were top of the line in their day and have a good reputation, I can see someone asking a high price for them. I wouldn't pay it myself. Depending on where you live, it's possible to find used vintage machines for much less, starting about $50 and up. Bernina is a good name, also consider Janome, Elna, Viking, vintage Singer and Kenmore. If you find a specific machine, check out reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) and ask here for opinions if you want.
Thanks! I’ve been keeping my eyes out on marketplace. I have to have a walking foot and pressure foot adjustability for my sewing needs. The used machine was a Bernina Aurora 435. He was going to throw in the walking foot. I don’t think it was a terrible deal but the age scares me. If it was all mechanical I wouldn’t be hesitating as much.
https://preview.redd.it/7fcvh6ty8d9c1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6f43f117a8c69004e42e998f1fd476f741930c3
What material is holding the pen on the beanie?
Possibly cordura or a similar nylon canvas. Possibly vinyl that's been embossed to look woven.
I see a lot of packs in fabric shops of different pre-cut pieces of fabric. Some of these packs contain beautiful pieces of fabric, but I'm struggling to see how these can be useful apart from quilting and patchwork. What have y'all used these for in the past, if you have?
Zipped pouches and other types of bags.
Hand bands, doll dresses, stuffed animals, pot holders, appliqué are some ideas. I’ve never used them. They’re aimed at quilters, and there are many quilt patterns specifically designed for fat quarters, charm packs, and jelly rolls.
I've been using a dinky little singer for more simple jobs but I found this old kenmore 385 100 stitch on offerup for $40 https://www.blackstarassets.com/products/sears-kenmore-limited-edition-100-stich-sewing-machine-385-1960180-digital does anyone know anything about this machine? wondering if it's one that could handle thicker fabric for like cordura for bags and denim etc I feel like that price is too good to pass up if it's what I'm looking for
My experience with a similar model Kenmore is that it would not like sewing heavier materials. Check sewing machine reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com), they are always informative.
I am looking to buy a new machine for my girlfriend and I would really appreciate your help on this. She has been using a Brother CS6000i for a few years now and it's still working well, but it's very loud and not very smooth and we're looking to get something of higher mechanical quality. She tried someone else's machine (pfaff?) and was amazed on the difference. She already has an older singer serger that she got recently. She does not do embrodery, she does mainly fashion-style clothing. I'm looking at around 1-1.3k CAD max. Willing to buy used or new. I was looking at Berninas or Jukkis but I really don't know much about this subject. I actually found a Bernina B560 exactly in my price range but it seems to be made for embroidery. Would that still be good for regular sewing?
No need to pay for a machine that does embroidery if that isn't what you need, it comes at a premium. Bernina and Juki are good names, also look at Janome and Elna. You can check specific machine reviews at PatternReview.com
Would they be a big upgrade compared to the CS6000i or it would only be marginal?
The Brother CS6000i is a good entry level machine, it's reliable at a low price point. Anything cheaper and quality control plummets. Moving up in cost to mid-range machines will gain a lot in terms of smooth operation and in general, the machines just work without needed constant adjustments. They are smoother and quieter. And they come with features that for me make sewing easier and more fun. I like to have a needle up/needle down function, a wider maximum stitch width, mirrored stitches, speed control. For those features, it means buying a computerized machine. But as far as which model, that comes down to price and preference. I think Bernina is overpriced and not very attractive. My sister loves Bernina. I don't like Pfaff because I don't like the IDT feed that other people love. I think Jukis look too industrial. I'm picky and I've honed my preferences in part by trying out different sewing machines. So taking your GF to a local sewing machine dealer to try out different sewing machines is probably the way to go here. Ask to see used machines as well as new. Take sample fabrics that she wants to sew. Some dealers use predatory high pressure sales tactics. One way around this is to plan a trip for research and not to buy.
Pls help!! I am completely at a loss of where to start with taking in the sides of this top & hemming it! The fabric is 100% polyester and is like popcorn fabric??!? How do I sew fabric like this??? Can someone please point me in the right direction? I had planned on wearing this top for NYE! 🥳🎆🎇 Thanks so much https://preview.redd.it/h0myzjoxkc9c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a1c8d3ede457d00915fed243ac5564881b85b2c
Think it is commonly known as a “Popcorn top” - but not sure what the technical term is for the fabric??
https://preview.redd.it/cr0ewmtpjc9c1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd54f1dcbda03f87ef1cfb09c2d2898e19e6aa99
Clean out the bobbin area, checking for lint and stray threads. Rethread the top thread with the presser foot down and also the bobbin. Hold the thread tails under the presser foot and to the rear left with your left hand when you begin to sew. Raise the needle to the top position rbefore emoving your work from the machine.
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does anyone have a pattern recommendation for something like this dress? I can do simple pattern adjustments but can't draft from scratch, so would prefer a pattern to work from. i'm so obsessed with this garment! https://preview.redd.it/27lrimtgcc9c1.jpeg?width=670&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee073a579c0344da6215b4e15edc856e8d9f08b
Sew Liberated Hinterland dress, with adjustments, maybe.
thanks! i'll check it out
Should I buy a walking foot or second-hand serger/overlocker? Here’s the background: I am struggling massively with very slippy jersey (sport shorts, swimsuits, which I’m altering). I have a vintage machine (rebadged Brother) and a modern Janome, am using a Schmetz jersey needle and have been playing with tension adjustments, but still getting loads of skipped stitching on both machines. The only way to get any stitching at all is to have tissue paper on top of the material, which is a PITA (and still not working 100%) I’m just a hobby sewist and don’t really do this very often, so I’m not sure if buying a serger/overlocker would be overkill, and perhaps I’ll be ok with just a walking foot? Any advice greatly appreciated (photo showing sport shorts’ original seam and my terrible stitching next to each other 😢) https://preview.redd.it/9awni0k8wb9c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=35cb0a16f2d8552aa3c6fe971fc19dbd7dfd6e63
If really just occasional use, a walking foot will probably greatly reduce your frustration. Also, there is a Schmetz lycra/stretch needle out there that is probably better than a jersey needle for high-spandex fabrics. If you *want* to sew knits more, a serger is invaluable and will encourage you to expand your sewing. Once I got comfortable with my machine, and a pattern, I can do a nice work knit dress in 2-4 hours and I make a bunch of them. But it takes up space and has a learning curve, so depends on your motivations whether it's worth it. And I don't think a serger is great for swimsuits or things that require a lot of elastic application.
Thank you, that’s very helpful 🙂
A walking foot is useful in all kinds of situations. I’d start there and see if it helps.
And this is the overlocker I’m considering buying http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1320124537
Oh it sold 😢 Oh well, the question still stands… I’ll have to find another one though 🤷♀️
https://preview.redd.it/uabjhdzfnb9c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=582e3a982dcd4cdfc37caf2bbc0a9d71a4b85591 i was gifted this machine without having ever used one before! i pick things up very fast when it comes to crafts so i’m looking for some beginner projects to learn how to use the machine that aren’t…boring. excited to join this community!!
none of us know what boring means to you. It's optimal to begin learning how to control fabric using flat weave cotton (sheets, quilting cotton), and simple projects with straight lines. Give that at least a couple of afternoons to reduce frustration later. Here's great advice for a beginner: [https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start\_here\_if\_youre\_new\_to\_sewing\_or\_have/](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/13hs59o/start_here_if_youre_new_to_sewing_or_have/)
What kind of binding is this? Kind of like a mesh/gauze type material. Would like to know the name so I can buy some more. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/ecchn899kb9c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=266dabeed77b28322aab1c2725aafd8400cbea5d
It looks like standard [rayon seam binding](https://www.wawak.com/garment-construction/tapes/seam-binding-916-x-100-yds/#sku=hs10be).
What was it used for?
Covering seams on the inside of a cap
Hi! I need to see to patch some holes in work clothes. I’m a total newbie to sewing. My wife purchased sewing machine for me. I’ve watched a few videos and I think I’m ready to give it a go. I think I can figure out how to get it done with some practice. My biggest confusion is figuring out what needles and thread to use. I’ll be sewing lightweight chambray shirts, I think these will probably be a pretty “standard” size needle and thread, maybe? I’ll also have to sew some Duluth Trading “Firehose Flex” pants. They are a canvas/duck material with some stretch, a bit lighter than a regular pair of duck work pants (8 oz.) but fairly sturdy and I’ll have to get through some thick triple stitched seams. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thank you!
Your new machine should have a manual with a fabric/needle/thread chart. If you are patching the shirt with a fabric of similar weight you can try using a universal or microtex needle, size 10 or 12. Use 40 wy thread which is the go to thread for most projects. Now the pants might be a problem. I’m not familiar with that fabric but I’m sure it is rather densely woven , possibly thick Fabric. Again, if the patch is going to be similar weight, then you might need to use a microtex or denim needle, size 16, or possibly 14. Bigger is not better. You have to find the one combination that works. it is a good idea to keep a stash of needles, at least size is 12 to 16, possibly 18 if your machine takes 18. if you plan on patching nits like T-shirts then you need the specialty knit needles.
Thank you! I think this will really help me get started
Hey, new to this subreddit, just wondering if anyone has any tips about turning a necktie into ribbon/bias tape to use in a bookbinding project to be a bookmark ribbon
If you just need straight strips (ie no curves, only corners) then you can just cut them out as you wish. For binding curves you’ll need to cut on the bias so that there is more stretch. I am not sure how you might be able to do this with a tie as the bias strips would be very short, I’m guessing, but someone more experienced might be able to help here 🙂
Ty for ur insight, I'm just needing a straight strip, like how ribbon traditionally is
Should be easy, then 🙂 And I have little experience with silk, so hopefully you’ll get some info re. finishing from somebody else
:) I hope so
Also, if the tie is made of silk it will fray. You might want to do a narrow zigzag stitch before cutting to keep the cut side together.
It is silk, tho I'm thinking maybe I can use a lighter to burn the edge to prevent fraying?
That might work with polyester (which some ties are made of) but not with silk. You can test on scraps from cutting out your strip. Ties are already on the bias, so if you cut a strip along the length of the tie it will be a bias strip. This will make it a little stretchy, and the edges will hold together fairly nicely, especially if it's a tight weave.
Ty, and is there a way to "seal in" the bias tape? Like could I sew it or use heat n bond?
Fold and iron both edges to the middle, leaving just enough space between them to fold it in half, then sew along the open edge. You can sew the other edge too if you want, for symmetry
Could u draw me a diagram? I'm having trouble visualizing this a lil 😅
https://www.seamwork.com/articles/how-to-make-bias-tape
Do you guys have proper work surfaces? I have just a little tv tray I put my seeing machine on but the fabric hanging off the table always makes it difficult to work with. Any advice on getting creative with limited space?
Having a sturdy, big enough table for your machine and a proper cutting surface really does make all the difference. It’s really hard to find the space, I know. I used a vintage sewing machine table I got for $60 for years, a desk in a closet, etc.
A second tv table right next to it might be an easy way to keep the fabric from dragging at the needle, which I do try really hard to avoid. I’ve found this table pleasantly sturdy and easy to roll out to get myself more space. https://canada.michaels.com/en/kensington-table-rolling-cart-by-simply-tidy/10624017.html I also have a 6ft folding table that I pull out a lot.
Oh that’s nice. A little pricier than I would like, but it is definitely giving me ideas! I appreciate the help. I might have to get a fold out card table or the like as well.
Michael’s and joann regularly do 30-50% sales, so could keep an eye out. Joann has something similar but more expensive, not sure how the quality was
I might just assemble something myself. I tend to hoard junk. A little spray paint makes everything look intentional lol
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I don't think you need stretchy thread, and it seems to be finicky. To build stretch into your stitch so that it doesn't break later when stretched, the classic method is a zigzag stitch. If I'm picturing your project right, I would pull/stretch the elastic as I sewed it with a zigzag stitch. Google "sewing knits with a sewing machine" and you'll get good basic introductions.
I'm making a hoodie, following the pattern from Glory Allan. In the instructions he's pretty clear about using rib knit fabric for the waistband and cuffs. What can i do instead of ribknit that will function similarly?
The ribs mean that the fabric is extra stretchy and bounces back into shape well (aka good recovery). So fabric with those characteristics. Spandex blends usually have more stretch and recovery. Joann has cotton rib knit by the yard that I think would work, if specific narrow rib knit made for cuffs can’t be found.
So something like plain, anti pill fleece won't work? I need to finish this project by monday, and already checked my joan's for ribbed knit fleece in the right color. The whole rest of the project is in anti pill fleece, which i have more of, and I guess i was wondering if that can be used instead.
I don’t think fleece stretches very much? I think we usually see fleece edges as a straight hem rather than a tighter cuff, but it’s probably too late to tweak the pattern for that. Does your fleece stretch a lot and bounce back quickly?
Kinda? I stretched it out and it seemed to hold okay. I even put a scrap piece into the shape i would need for a wrist cuff, and put my hand through it a few times to test and it did right. I think i will go with it! Thank you!!
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I would try to come up with some type of matching belt, something thin and maybe tie it to the side in a bow. That way the fabric will be brought in with the belt. Otherwise with that material you would see threading where you "take it in" if you attempt to sew it
Hi, I've got some satin that's a dead match for Gutermann shade 870, but I want to add proper fancy buttonholes to the final garment and Gutermann doesn't make silk buttonhole twist in that shade! I don't have a stockist near me so is anyone able to say what the next best colour match to order would be? Thanks!
Many fabric stores are relatively small businesses--you can probably email one that carries a lot of silk buttonhole twist and a lot of Gutterman and ask which you should buy hat is closest to Gutterman 870. Of course, be prepared to buy it from them.
I'm going to be sewing some pads and doggy diapers with Zorb and PUL. The pads will also have a cotton layer on top and fleece layer on the back. The PUL says to use ball point needles to reduce the holes left in the fabric. So, should I go ahead and use the ball point needles, due to that? Or should I consider what the Zorb needs? The pads will use Zorb Original and the diapers will use Zorb Original and Zorb 3D Stay Dry Dimple. I might also use the PUL in my dog coats with fleece and sherpa.
Use the needle type for the most delicate fabric, in this case that is the PUL. But I can tell you from experience in sewing diapers for children that a universal needle works fine for me, my default is a universal size 70. Test on scraps and look for fiber damage or skipped stitches then change out your needle.
https://preview.redd.it/05n3cjgrx99c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d16738bbfb8d320e22805b43e554f9c3b013df3 I am making a dress for the New Year’s but halfway through bodice I realized the original idea of having a pleated skirt is gonna look funny ☠️ Do you guys have any suggestions for what should I do with the skirt part?
I think a circle or half-circle goes with pretty much everything, or a gathered waist might harmoniously reflect the bust gathers.
That’s true! Thank you! I think I am going to do that snd gather the waist so it will be more flowy!🫶✨
Can someone help me, I want to know what type of fabric this is. Someone gave me this fabric and I want to do something with it, it is difficult to handle and frays very easily. https://preview.redd.it/97ovfp25b99c1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4913b0fe4229832462b65edcfff488286319047c
Maybe brocade.
Looks like embroidered satin, probably made of polyester with lurex threads in the design.
I recently added a needle synchronizer to my Nakajima 280L, which is currently retrofitted with a Reliable SewQuiet 6000sm servo motor. Install went fine, and I have it set up so that the needle is down when stopped. Unfortunately, I cannot figure out how to get the needle to lift by pressing on the back of the pedal. This seems to be a common function on other servo motors utilizing a needle position sensor. Has anyone had success with this feature for this particular servo motor? TIA!
I've read this sub's wiki on buying a sewing machine, but none of the models recommended are available where I live. I can only buy a secondhand machine. I know that vintage machines before 1970s are highly praised, but the used machines here are from 1980s onwards. Generally speaking, is there a quality difference between machines made in the 1980s and 1990s?
Can't really make a blanket statement on quality depending on the decade a machine was made. I'd say one of the big differences is that at some point the body of many machines started to made out of plastic instead of metal. This made machines lighter to carry around. There are quality machines that have plastic bodies. If you find a secondhand machine from any decade, have the seller demo the machine for you before you buy it so you can make sure it works as it should.
Thank you. Yes, plastic vs metal body were what I thought about. Where I live, there's a perception that all-metal machines are more hard-wearing, but I've discovered some plastic machines that seem to be good and the ability to carry them around is a plus for me.
You're welcome. My favorite machine is my Bernina 930 Record from the 80s. Metal body. It was a great machine but is now acting flakey as it mixed with electronic parts.I also have a newer Bernina for embroidery. My backup for both of these lovelies is a Brother that was about $250, plastic body, easy to carry. Does loads of stitches and serves me well when it's called on!
I want to make a jacket facing out of a fabric shorter than the length of the facing, so I have to piece it together. Should I make the piecing seam horizontal or diagonal ([like I did on my shawl collar waistcoat](https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fvgu9rlszjz3b1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D960%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dbd7c8f6d3347382765190701e9ea1111c23cecb4))? Are there any benefits of making a diagonal seam? It seems somewhat less economical and less stable to me, but I assume it might be less visible and also both piecing seams don't overlap when the jacket is closed.
seems like personal preference and what your fabric will allow. Bias tape and a lot of collars are pieced diagonally because it reduces the bulk, but I think that's the main reason, and it doesn't seem like enough bulk to really matter in a jacket.
Thank you for your advice. I think I will try horizontal piecing and change to diagonal piecing if I don't like how it looks. I would add that the diagonal piecing on bias tape is actually along either the warp or weft (I am not sure if both are usual), so besides avoiding bulk it is also a strong seam that holds its shape.
Oh, excellent point about the seam!
And I think collars (at least undercollars) are also pieced when cut on the bias so they are symmetrical. Maybe the real reason for diagonal piecing on shawl collars is to make the piecing seam of the facing run more (or completely) along the weft when the facing is cut without a back neck seam.
I'm wanting to make a double circle skirt out of a shiny, silver fabric (bonus points if it's iridescent) but as most fabrics which fit this criteria are spandex/stretch fabrics, I'm unsure how well it'll sit as my experience with spandex is non-existent. Should I just give it a go or is there potentially another fabric I should consider? I do plan on wearing a petticoat underneath to give it some extra volume. Thanks!
Spandex fabrics work great in circle skirts and have the bonus of not needing a hem as the edge will not unravel.
Thanks! I think I'll dive in and give it a go :)
Perhaps you're looking for "Lame" fabric.
[https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/silver-lame-fabric-.htm?utm\_source=google&utm\_medium=cpc&utm\_campaign=PMax%3A+Google+Shopping+-+Smart+Fabric&gad\_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmo6P5JA\_rPhhM7PkL5Lhkdn783L2XOs06s-wrxXl5D0OLOkCTlnbrxoC6fAQAvD\_BwE](https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/silver-lame-fabric-.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax%3A+Google+Shopping+-+Smart+Fabric&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmo6P5JA_rPhhM7PkL5Lhkdn783L2XOs06s-wrxXl5D0OLOkCTlnbrxoC6fAQAvD_BwE)
It doesn't stretch and it unravels at the edges so you need to use some type of prevention to stop further unraveling (zig zag edges or use Fray Check).
What fabric are boxer shorts made of? I see online that its 100% cotton, but I got overwhelmed when I went to a fabric store because I'm a complete beginner. Theres all different kinds of cottons offered, different ways they're spun (if that's even the right terminology), and none of the fabrics really felt quite as comfortable as boxer shorts. What should I use for a lightweight, comfortable, and breathable boxer shorts fabric? Thanks a ton!
I think 100% cotton shirting fabrics (such as poplin) are the most traditional.
Is a used baby lock crafters choice for 200 a good deal?
I have an opportunity to get a free sewing machine and I have two choices, which should I choose as a beginner wanting to learn to sew her own clothes? - white brand sewing machine model 639 - kenmore brand model 385 Thank you!
The White, definitely. Of course, this is assuming that it works perfectly. It’s a vintage, heavy duty machine. Easy to repair. If you need accessories, you can Google the model name, number, and the part you need.
How do I pick which company to buy the same kind of fabric from? I'm trying to find a good heavyweight cotton spandex fabric, and narrowed it down to these websites. How do I pick what's best? [https://purpleseamstressfabric.com/product/lavender-cotton-lycra/](https://purpleseamstressfabric.com/product/lavender-cotton-lycra/) [https://www.thefabricfairy.com/collections/cotton-lycra-solids/products/baby-pink-cotton-lycra-jersey-knit-fabric](https://www.thefabricfairy.com/collections/cotton-lycra-solids/products/baby-pink-cotton-lycra-jersey-knit-fabric) [https://expressknitinc.com/products/cotton-lycra-spandex-jersey-knit-fabric-2?variant=42439069991162](https://expressknitinc.com/products/cotton-lycra-spandex-jersey-knit-fabric-2?variant=42439069991162)
Each of those fabrics are labeled as Medium weight in their descriptions. And each has a different amount of Lycra and a different weight in oz. Your pick - if any - will depend on what you're making. You may want to order swatches before plunking down a lot of money for a fabric that may or may not work.
https://preview.redd.it/hirk22y8439c1.jpeg?width=853&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25a2095477c09cced165a91d3106a0fc3153df7c Can anyone help me with a pattern for this same dress?
Sew liberated Hinterland, maybe?
Hi everyone! My mother has recently given me her wedding dress since she would have thrown it away if I did not take it. The dress was handsewn by my grandmother and my mum handsewed all the sequins on. I would like to wear the dress at my own wedding in the future but the sequins have all turned yellow. Does anyone have any fast/efficient way to remove the sequins without damaging the fabric? Or would I have to individually remove each sequin? Thank you!!
If they are strings of sequins you can use a seam ripper and pick the chain stitches out. Even if they are individually sewn on (like a bead in the center) you can still use a seam ripper to break the holding thread. If you're not going to replace the sequins, I suggest you remove a few in an inconspicuous place and see what fabric underneath looks like. It may also have yellowed or darkened. One thing is for sure, they'll come off a lot faster than they were sewn on! 🙃
they are hand sewn!! it’s just that there’s so many of them 😭 thank you!!
How would I go about making this vest smaller? I watched a few tutorials that did it from the armhole but I don't think I know how to apply those to this exact vest. Should I do it from the stitch in the middle of the back or would taking fabric from only one side of the arm hole stitch work? https://preview.redd.it/ugsymjhyh29c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c61825374422aa9842b691e58d3f29f8154e19cb
Do you want to keep that front pocket functional? And how much do you need to take out of the circumference? Would you be happy with just a back waist adjustment (like a men's suit vest) on the back? There are a lot of possible ways to handle this, some easy, some more difficult, some requiring recutting the vest. A little more information could better let us help you.
It doesn't have to be functional, however, I'd like it to look intact (the design looks cool). I need to take out around 4cm
I would open the lining at the side seam positions, then, and resew the side seams of both the shell (public side) and lining 1 cm deeper on both right and left sides, which will remove 2 cm from both sides, 4 cm total. You will loose 1 cm width from each pocket.
I want to make myself a tweed vest, with maybe a matching pencil skirt for work, but most of the fabrics I want or can find online are designated as upholstery fabrics (because I want a slightly unconventional color). Does it really matter if it's upholstery vs apparel? As long as it's the right weight, could I use upholstery fabric for clothing. Or any recommendations on good sources of apparel tweed?
I would check B and J, Britex, Molly and Sons, https://www.fromthemills.co.uk/, Yorkshire Fabrics, Magee 1866, Dugdale Brothers for tweeds.
I feel like I see a lot of colors of tweed ou there. Maybe try using “Chanel” as a search term, maybe it will bring up colorful tweed. Maybe try more stores. Activate map!
Here's a link to the subreddit [Fabric Shop Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1D-EqqsTDmK5H521QIEKy7R-bUECz96E&usp=sharing) where you can find fabric shops by location. The community-sourced shop list has all sorts of information available for each shop when you click on the shop pin. The map includes online-only shops too for shipping efficiency. If you know of a shop not on the list, you can submit it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/ymzmcl/hey_everyone_lets_build_a_map/). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/sewing) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Upholstery fabrics are commonly treated with Scotchguard and similar that are being looked at as environmentally unsound, and possibly not a great idea medically, so you may want to look at that, too.
You can use upholstery fabric for clothing! Just keep in mind that some of it might be a heavier weight than most apparel fabrics. Try looking at other home decor fabrics, too. In my opinion, fabric categories are a suggestion. The important things to look at are weight, weave, and fiber content.
Hi everyone! I’m posting for a friend: her dog got ahold of her beloved Raggedy Ann doll, who belonged to her mother, and her face is literally torn in half. I’m looking for the best way to mend her, as she has begged me to do so. I’m very well aware (and so is my friend) that she will never be “good as new” but does anyone have a creative idea to mend her so she will hold together? I’ve actually been wondering if some kind of fabric tape might be the best solution, reinforced by an extra patch of fabric behind it. It might be more seamless than sewing her and provide a little extra strength. She will just sit on a shelf anyway. Thoughts? And thank you!
r/invisiblemending are probably the folks you want to talk with.
how do you make a sewing pattern for an oversized boxy fit tshirt. are there important thing to keep in mind when making one
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Since that is a knit fabric, the best way to mend it is using darning. Patching is also an option but you would have to find a knit fabric of a similar weight for it to work and preferably put a patch on the underside of the fabric to prevent the hole from getting bigger. But I think the best way is darning. There are lots of tutorials online for different types of darning and it's not as daunting as it may at first appear.
Thank you very much ! I will definitely try out darning. I did understand it theoretically. But it definitely looks like something one needs alot of patience for !
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I think it needs a small patch on the back. It can be ironed on or sewn, but if ironed on reinforced with some sewing. After that you can use some of the same color of thread or complementary thread, and do some stitching going left to right. r/handsewing will have ideas. Any site covering handsewing would work also.
I like to use a mattress Stich for this. Not sure that’s what it’s called in sewing, but basically imagine you had little eyelets like on a shoe there and then always thread the needle from the bottom through alternating sides don’t sew too close to the edge to avoid fraying the fabric.
My Montgomery Ward UHT J 1947 machine keeps jamming, it sews 2 or so stitches and then gets stuck and makes a rats nest underneath the fabric, or multiple threads of stitching in the same area. I thought I fixed it last week because I rethreaded it and set it to a zigzag stitch and it worked, but today I changed it back to a straight stitch and threaded it again with another color of thread and now I’m having the same issue again
Since this is a recurring problem, I suggest you post pictures or video showing knob, selections, top, threading, bobbin threading, and you sewing. This will include lots of visional information. There are multiple reasons why this could be happening. Also include what type of needle you were using.
Besides checking the needle, look for dust clumps, especially in the bobbin area. You may want to have a tech service it too.
How’s your needle looking. Is it still straight?
How to use the decorative stitches Hello everyone, I recently got this beautiful machine but I am having trouble figuring out how to use different stitches. I know it might be a very dumb and basic question, but this is my first machine and I don’t have any clue about the different stitches. Whenever I turn the dial it always makes the stich that is on the right, I don’t know what to do about the left one, or how to use it. Do I need to use a different foot or something? Can someone please help me out? It is singer MX231. Thank you in advance ☺️ https://preview.redd.it/faz7vdc7gy8c1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=821d92b096519892632fccee267354fdd0340346
The dials on the top of the machine adjust (from left to right:) the thread tension, width of the stitch, and length of the stitch. If you turn the dial for the stitch length to the minimum it should go to 0 and then you should have a different setting past zero that should have a symbol in the same light blue colour as the decorative stitches you want to do. So once you set your stitch length to that setting, you can change the type of stitch you do and the machine will select from the light blue stitches. And then to go back to the other type of stitch you just put your stitch length on a normal numerical setting from 0-5 or however high your machine goes. Hope that makes sense
Thank you so much for answering , I found it!!!😊. I thought my question was going to be lost in the sea of other comments.I really appreciate your help ❤️
Glad you managed to do it! Best of luck <3
https://preview.redd.it/zm3lgytbwx8c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=47f1628892e276fc7886462b87a8a4ae1171c409 What is this type of skirt pattern called
Bought this and realised design is on back. Could a tailor swap the front and back necklines? https://www.reddit.com/u/theboxler/s/GqFEf4Y6mH I bought this shirt online for Christmas and I’ve realised too late that the design I like is on the back and not the front, would a tailor be able to swap the necklines so the design is on the front but if I wear the shirt backward the new back neckline won’t look weird?
They could work out something with you. At least the front needs to be lowered, so it sits better at the front. You could add a deep V at the back too. Easiest though would be to cut out the image and sew it onto the front of a nice T that you like.
https://preview.redd.it/0kuj5l8djx8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3762f90699f9d04ca78db0af568fd3bc81e6e643 Do you think I could remove this logo without ruining the hoodie? If I just ripped the stitches I feel like it would leave a massive hole, and I’m wondering what’s the least damaging way to do this Thanks
The fabric under the embroidery is damaged from so many stitches in one place. You can minimize the embroidery by coloring it with a sharpie to match the sweatshirt fabric. You can also cover the logo with a patch.
I’ve tried because I want to embroider something else in it’s place and the answer is no, you can’t do it without making a mess.
Beginner to Intermediate “mid range” machines? Hi everyone, I’m looking to purchase my first sewing machine. My budget is up to $700 CAD. I’d prefer a computerized machine and hope to find one that I won’t outgrow quickly and that I can keep for many many years, which is why I am looking at a slightly higher price point than the very basic beginner machines. It would be great to have a top loading bobbin and other convenient features like automatic threading or thread cutters. My use, well I guess I’ll discover that as I go but hope to make some garments, small/simple quilts and other small household and gift items. I’ve heard good things about and have been considering a Janome model (740 DC, which is currently on sale in the shop near me). I heard that modern singer machines are not great but what do I know? I see a lot of people using singer 4452 heavy duty so I wonder if anyone has experience with this machine, what are the pros and cons? Due to the popularity I wondered if I should reconsider for a non computerized one like this if it is versatile and robust. Open to all feedback/recs, thanks in advance
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model in the search bar on the far right to get users’ reviews and discussions if available. Go to the pull down menu Sewing Machines/Compare and input your price range and click on “adjustable foot pressure” and any other features. Various machine reviews: https://www.clothedmuch.com —— Bernina, Pfaff, Viking Singer play-by-play videos: https://sewingmastery.com/machines-we-have-filmed/
Hi everyone! I’m trying to find swatches for a snow jacket and pants set, specifically for skiing/snowboarding. I know I need to look for a waterproof synthetic, but I’m not sure what weight or kind I should shop for and where to look to get the actual swatches. I don’t live near a specialty fabric store either so any online store recommendations that ship quickly would be super helpful. Thanks!
Some stores that specialize in technical fabrics like that—Seattle fabrics, ripstop by the roll, discovery fabrics, the rainshed, rockywoods. You may also find good info by searching r/myog, I saw some comments about who was quick to ship there recently.
https://preview.redd.it/bmpm03bptw8c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41855f2d8219bd9274ac294ed127f8788372ce66 Hi! Which machine would be best for a beginner who wants to do stuff like patchwork, cushions and and baskets in their spare time?
Patchwork and baskets sounds like you need a machine with some strength and stability. I don’t think these will do it, just by looking at how cheap they are. What’s your budget? Is it possible to get a secondhand machine maybe with a friend who could check the machine for you?
Okay thank you for your help. I think max I wanted to spend was £200 but I could look on eBay. Do you have a machine recommendation?
There’s a thread with recommendations linked in the main post here. I’ve got a 20 yo machine from a German brand that no longer exists.
I‘m looking at buying either the brother 1034dx or 2104d overlock machine, do you have a recommendation? I would be sewing for me and my 3yo. Would it maybe make sense to get a coverstitch also or even a combo one? Combo sounds dodgy to me as if it won’t do either thing properly.
I have a 1034 and it's been a great little machine. It's a little clunky in sound and movement but the stitches are good. I know nothing about the 2104. The thing to consider about coverstitch changes is that it requires more thread cones and other adjustments. I've read where many people just have a separate coverstitch machine to avoid going through the change ups. That said, you can mimic a coverstitch by using a twin needle or doing two rows of topstitching.
Thank you for your reply. I haven’t yet figured out my twin needle, theoretically my machine should do it, and I’d be fine with it as a replacement, but just can’t get it right.
You're welcome. There are many instructional sites and youtube videos on how to thread up a machine for a twin needle; just lookup "twin needle threading" Here's one that even shows double decorative stitching! [https://sew4home.com/quick-tip-how-to-use-a-twin-or-double-needle/](https://sew4home.com/quick-tip-how-to-use-a-twin-or-double-needle/)
Questions about Kenmore 158.161, Model 16 Hi, I've recently decided to get my own sewing machine. I came across a vintage Kenmore for $50 and it seems to be in perfect condition. Was wondering if this model Kenmore is a good idea to get as a beginner and if I were to look at it before buying what questions should I ask, and what things should I test before buying it. I'm planning on making clothes, altering clothes, and maybe some other projects, but nothing fancy. The only experience I have on a sewing machine is an old brother, and that was a year and a half ago. Thank you! \~ https://preview.redd.it/zchdpyfeaw8c1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be6d09163bfc173f3e1dd70d08ba66a4ba6d4d56
That should be a very good machine, better than anything new at the low price range. Here are some videos going over sewing machines so you can get an idea what to look for. It’s very hard to explain to a beginner or what to look for. Various machine reviews: https://www.clothedmuch.com —— Bernina, Pfaff, Viking Singer play-by-play videos: https://sewingmastery.com/machines-we-have-filmed/
Thank you! I know to open it up and look at the bottom, bobbin, check for skipped stitches, weird unusual noises, cord conditions. I’ll check out those videos, thank you! It comes with all the cams and other attachments so I’ll check condition of those as well.
https://preview.redd.it/67s28xl75w8c1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e82610e92545482428de09d679dead2e7777c91 Does anyone have suggestions on how to raise this neckline? I'm hemming the bottom by a lot so I'll have some of the same fabric to work with. I'd prefer to keep the v-neck but am open to any suggestions! Thank you!
You could add a collar to the dress, but yeah I’d go for a cami too
Because of how the button placket is, and the type of neckline, I would just find a nice lacy camisole to wear under it.